From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2686
Date: Friday, June 17, 2005 1:06 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

2. RE: Re: DMCH 2005 open house pics uploaded
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Chevy V-8 Swap
From: "stephenucedu" <steve100_at_dml_cinci.rr.com>

4. Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show Chicago (no golf?)
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Manifold Vacuum Question
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. New England Car Show
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>

7. Re: Manifold Vacuum Question
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>

8. Re: Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

9. Re: Custom Drilled Rotors
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

10. Connecting with another owner on I-29
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

11. intake manifold
From: "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: PRV Variations (Manifold Vacuum Question)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. Carbureted PRV Intake Manifolds Apparently Available
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: Canadian meet -Grand Bend
From: "dgrozio" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>

15. Possible Exhaust Leak
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

16. Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Custom Drilled Rotors
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Lambda without Cat
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

20. Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

21. Re: Richard's Journey to Santa Barbara, CA
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

22. Re: Possible Exhaust Leak
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

23. Re: intake manifold
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Possible Exhaust Leak
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. RE: Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 20:38:00 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?

Try White Lithium Grease in a spray can, this will not wash off in 
water and sticks real good.

Mark V



On Jun 16, 2005, at 12:42 PM, sweetp01569 wrote:

> Do I use grease for door and compartment latches?  I tried WD-40, but
> it disappears too quickly, leaving the mechanism a bit dry.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul
> Vin 10944





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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 17:39:44 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DMCH 2005 open house pics uploaded

Yes, you are right about the law on this one.... but who's gonna know or 
tell?
I mean, if they use the same underbody and replace everything above and 
below it
then what's the diference?
So if they started with the VIN plate, and built around it - same thing.
There are no numbers to match up.
I'm not going to tell either way.
The more DeLorean's the better.
-VB

>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: DMCH 2005 open house pics uploaded
>Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 19:01:45 -0000
>
>Strickly speaking, that is a Federal offense. Transfering the title
>(vin plate) from one frame (or car) to another is a big no-no. Because
>the vin tags are on the body you could reframe the car and repair the
>body. Since there is no record of the frame #'s or engine #'s I guess
>you could swap them and that would be OK. IMHO legaly the car is the
>vin tag and the vin tag is on the fiberglass body (and on the dash
>pad). My guess is that it was an insurance total and they left the car
>there for the storage. It was cheaper for the insurance co. to do that
>than pay to remove it and junk it.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > I am betting that when they take in a car like that,
> > all they are interested in is the VIN plate and title.
> > With that, they can build a new car and reassign it as the old one.
> > -




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 03:24:03 -0000
From: "stephenucedu" <steve100_at_dml_cinci.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Chevy V-8 Swap

Corey,

Tamir's site also shows a picture of my car with a Chevy engine swap, but he says its a 
Ford. See http://www.lfnet.net/DMC for info and specs.

steve


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hi all!  I noticed pictures of an engine swap for a 350 Chevy V-8 on Tamir's 
> site.  http://entermyworld.com/custom/index.html.  Does anyone know who's 
> car that is, and where I could contact him at?  Is he a member of the list?  I just 
> want to know some of the details regarding this particular type of swap.
> Cheers,
> Corey
> 2423








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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 23:03:12 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show Chicago (no golf?)

Now now no anti Vette sentiment LOL
if it were not for them we would not have the large facility we have for  
both nights.
That enables us to do the vin lineup and the grouping by class.

I look forward to seeing the vetts if you remember people all said we  should 
do a show like the vette group and now you can see the difference
 
Besides we are across the street so if you do the DeLorean events you will  
pretty much be isolated. They will be on the golf course and I do not know if  
they have all the course or just part 
I will check but I think Rich is right.
 
This show will be bigger than PF so maybe the vette people will get tired  of 
seeing so many DeLoreans LOL
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 03:51:36 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Manifold Vacuum Question

I've got all the vacuum diagrams, but no scanner. Think my tortured
use of the English language will be enough?

Hopefully the moderator will let this through. It does have DeLo
application -- there's no reason a DeLo can't have alternative
plumbing installed (or even an entirely different flavor PRV for that
matter).

According to my literature, the dual barb spark advance diaphragm was
discontinued after 1979, but the delay valve was discontinued after
1978. Series 004 CPR was standard in 1979. Assuming it's original to
the engine, does your coolant distribution pipe have a thermactor
valve? That's a 1980 addition. I think I've seen you mention Lambda,
which is a 1980 addition as well (do you have CIS, added 1981?) In
short, there may be no telling what is original to your engine and
what has been added later (do you have a fuel/air mixture unit with
isolated throttle plates, or the single piece casting used through 1980?).

No matter, you can easily plumb it for what's onboard now.

The dual barb spark advance is an emissions concession. As fuel
mixtures got leaner & leaner, the risk of premature detonation
increased, especially with a conventional spark advance unit (don't
forget, base ignition times were creeping up too). To combat this,
manufacturers added an inner barb on the wrong side of the diaphragm,
attached to full manifold vacuum. This prevented the outer barb from
advancing ignition until the throttle plates were pretty fully open
(the only time fuel mixture approached anything close to pre-EPA specs
-- remember, this is the era of the spread bore carburetor too). But
you need spark advance on a cold engine, so the inner barb was usually
run through a thermactor valve in the cooling system. See where this
is going... (that's why late 1970's engines look like spaghetti).

The good news is: anything added to an engine design that predates EPA
regulations can be removed, returning the engine to its original
parameters, if that is your intention.

I'd recommend plumbing your spark advance just like a mid 70's model
-- simply run a single vacuum line from the ported barb under the
throttle plates to the outer barb on the spark advance diaphragm.
Don't worry about the inner barb -- with no vacuum attached your dual
barb unit will behave just like a single barb one. You can stick a
vacuum cap on it if the empty barb looks bad (an empty barb could also
confuse a 3rd party mechanic).

Both of your CPR's need full manifold vacuum if you want to use the
full throttle feature. They have 1/4" barbs on them, but your engine
may only have 3/16" and 3/8" barbs on the manifold. Where is your PCV?
If it's through the U pipes you can simply tap in there (same
diameter). I wouldn't recommend using a barb on the cold start tube
because they are calibrated much smaller. If you can't find a 1/4"
barb and decide to add one, McMaster Carr sells them with 1/8" BSPT
threads (the PRV does not use 1/8" NPT).

All CPR's except Series 066 work very simply. Full manifold vacuum
pulls them lean. As vacuum drops, they open richer. That's it.

If you're running Lambda, all this could be for naught. Unless you
figure out how to force the frequency valve inactive (Pin 11 on the
ECU?), it will fight every step you make to enrich the mixture.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> Bill, Thanks for the reply.  What I have is a 1980 B28 that has been 
> put into a 1978 262C.  It currently has the 004 CPR and the vacuum 
> delay/retard with two ports on the distributor vacuum diaphragm.  
> I've got a 038 and a 018 CPR ($10.00 new in the box,thank you UK 
> EBay).  Since I have the 004 and no other full throttle enrichment, 
> I'm considering putting on the 018 and wanted to hook it up to the 
> correct vacuum source.  With the 2 barb distributor vacuum diaphragm, 
> which barb should I hook up to manifold vacuum if I want to bypass 
> the vacuum delay solenoid?  What is the purpose of the delay solenoid 
> (emmisions?)and what will bypassing it affect?  I'm also looking into 
> adding the full throttle enrichment switch onto the throttle pulley 
> bracket and run the grounding circuit to terminal 11 of the ECU.  Do 
> you think the 018 CPR and the throttle enrichment switch are over-
> kill when combined?  What is the definition of ported vacuum?  Can I 
> hook up the CPR to one of the vacuum ports on the intake runner?  
> Thanks again for your help, Rick
> 
> 








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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 00:10:30 -0400
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>
Subject: New England Car Show

Hello Everyone:
 
As of today, we have 12 people who are interested in forming a DeLorean Club to service the New England area.  If you want to get involved, please let me know.  Also, listed below is information on the North East Exotic Car Show.  Per my converations with sevearl New England DeLorean Owners, some of you will be in attendance and I look forward to meeting you there.
 
Jason 
#10648
#6441
#2449
#1548

http://www.northeastexotic.com/
Date: June 25th, 2005
Time:Show Cars - 8:30 a.m. - 10:00 a.m. / Public 10:00 a.m.
Rain Date: June 26th, 2005
Location: Anheuser-Busch Brewery in Merrimack, NH
 
 
 


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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 04:27:35 -0000
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>
Subject: Re: Manifold Vacuum Question

[Moderator Note:  Unless someone has DeLorean related comments to add, this thread is closed.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]

John, It's on a Volvo.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Are you hooking it up to a Delorean.
> John







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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 00:09:26 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?

Anyone ever heard of Kroil?  It's manufactured in Nashville. 
www.kanolalabs.com  They make the best lubs and cleaners in the world from 
what I can tell.  Many people I have talked to about said it's the greatest 
stuff in the world..  Check it out.  I going to buy a gallon of it.  That's 
more than alifetimes supply.

Lingo   #02034
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 2:37 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?


>I was told some of that white lithium grease or you could use some Poly
> Lube 250 found at www.specialtauto.com.  I was told it is pretty good.
>
> Matt
> VIN: 2953
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>> Do I use grease for door and compartment latches?  I tried WD-40, but
>> it disappears too quickly, leaving the mechanism a bit dry.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Paul
>> Vin 10944




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 23:15:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Custom Drilled Rotors

A few months ago I decided to research drilled rotors on the market,
concentrating on drilled "solid" rotors.  I had a set of rotors with
only a few miles use (plus a little rust) and decided to use them to
see if I could get better performance than just the stock rotor.

When developing my design, I looked at hole diameters, hole patterns
and small design enhancements that might further improve performance.

To be on the safe side (minimize the likelihood of failure or the
common stress cracks around the drilled holes), I decided on slightly
smaller diameter and fewer number of holes with the realization that
the rotors might not dissipate heat as well and might still be prone to
warping.  I also made the outside edge of the holes conical to reduce
the wear and tear on the pads.  I even decided to use the existing pads
that had a few miles on them and may have been OE.  I did the final
layout on my CADD system with coordinates for the CNC.  Drilling was
the simplest step.

After 7,000 miles, and standing HARD on the brakes several times (due
to my aggressive driving habits and the occasional crazy "other"
driver), the results were much better than I expected.  The pads have
held up amazingly well and appear to have considerable life remaining. 
More importantly, the rotors have not developed the characteristic
vibration/distortion or brake pull, there are no signs of cracking
around the drilled holes and the condition of the rotors is visually
very good, and the performance is much better than I've ever
experienced in the previous 90,000+ miles with my first D.

The vendor supplied drilled rotors likely give better performance, have
probably had a lot more testing and are not much higher than OE, but I
thought I'd share my experience, anyway.  The most obvious conclusion
from my limited test is that drilling the rotors is a positive step.

Woody




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 23:38:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Connecting with another owner on I-29

Last week while heading south on Interstate 29 in Iowa (south of
Omaha/Council Bluffs), I met a fellow D-owner headed northbound.

I decided to cross the median an pull up beside for a wave.  Turned out
to be Paul who was on a return trip to Minnesota after going to the
open house in Houston.  Paul has done some interesting mods to his car
and an interesting person himself.  We talked for about an hour then
headed our separate directions. 

I had a very enjoyable visit, and thanks, Paul for taking the time out
of your long trip!

That evening, after attending a board meeting of a new charity that 3
of us formed a year ago (to build a camp for chronocially or terminally
ill kids, I decided to stop a popular restaurant in Omaha.  When I got
out of my car, a woman came up to me and said, "I got to know John De.
and his wife when I lived in CA.  Our conversation continued inside the
restaurant and she expressed interest in helping with our charity.

Afterward, I thought about the amazing number of people I have met
because of uniqueness of the car.

Of course there was also the 93 mph ticket I got a couple of weeks ago
with the now familiar officer remark, "it's not like I could not pick
out your car . . ."

Oh, well, I guess we have to take the good with the bad.

Woody





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 11:52:54 -0000
From: "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: intake manifold

Does anyone have any reaction to the prototype delorean carb intake 
manifold being shown on E-bay right now. Would it work, how much of
the 
fuel injector system can be disconected, what about the air filter.
Any 
coments






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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 12:53:59 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: PRV Variations (Manifold Vacuum Question)

I would just mention that the PRV is not an obscure engine. Douvrin
cranked out nearly 1 million of the things (BTW: PRV "variation" is 
bit of a misnomer -- block castings themselves are all basically the
same). This means that a variety of iterations have made or are making
their way into DeLoreans, as changes in bolt on components if nothing
else. Jeff Friday's new intake manifold is a prime example, as are
DMCUK's E Series mods. And turbo modifications have been around almost
from the car's beginning. I encourage owners to think outside the
boxes that were shipped to Dunmurry. Even if you decide to leave your
engine stock, at least you'll be able to relate to (and accept) people
who have something different under their louvers.

Does complicate technical advice, however.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> [Moderator Note:  Unless someone has DeLorean related comments to
add, this thread is closed.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]
> 







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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 13:03:19 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Carbureted PRV Intake Manifolds Apparently Available

It appears Jeff Friday's intake manifolds are making their way into
production (eBay Item #4556848628). I've had nothing to do with this
particular project, but as the owner of a DeLorean with a carbureted
PRV I'm willing to answer generic application questions off List:
brobertson(at)carolina.net.

Specific questions should of course be addressed to Jeff.

Just remember that this is a bolt-on, non-permanent mod. My car still
has all its K Jetronic plumbing riding around idle idle underneath!

Bill Robertson
#5939







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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 13:53:58 -0000
From: "dgrozio" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Canadian meet -Grand Bend

Hi Everyone,

Been a lurker for a while on these boards, but in the last month I have started my search 
for a DeLorean. Would you guys mind if a 'soon to be' owner came to check out the events 
this weekend? Thanks.

-Derek



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> The weekend should be great in Grand Bend! www.grandbend.ca  There should be a 
good turnout of cars! Next time I'll do a registration for the count! We will have sunny 
weather - I've been told by someone high up!
> 
> The meeting spot is the Oakwood Inn on # 21 about 1/4 mile north of the only traffic 
light in town - try the front desk or my room www.oakwoodinnresort.com 
> 
> Saturday: leave the Oakwood Inn 11:15 AM & cruise to Bayfield, Ontario, (north on # 21 
about 20 minutes) & stay there for lunch around 12:30 PM _at_dml_ Ritz Restaurant - late arrivals 
- meet us there.........then cruise back to the Bend and the BEACH show and shine!
> 
> Organizing this event is like getting ready for a breach birth --- tons to do for 1 person, 
yet, an exciting time! 
> 
> Ken, I envy you for your patience, and tremendous organizational skills.
> 
> Drive safely!
> 
> Marv. Stein
> # 17077
> marv_at_dml_p... 
> cell: 519 - 852 - 1667
> res: 519 - 438 - 7174
>   ----------




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 13:23:07 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Possible Exhaust Leak

I believe I have a slight exhaust leak.  It's a "puttering" sound when 
I accelerate.  Is the exhaust manifold usually the culprit?  An 
exhaust gasket was replaced in August 2004 by the previous owner.

Should I check manifold torques?

Thanks,

Paul






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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 14:14:13 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?

I have heard of Kroil. I have even used it. I remember it as a very
sticky, black oil. Not what you would want to use on the anchor pins.
For door and hood latches and anchor pins I use a product that looks
like a giant lipstick. It is very waxy and clear and won't soil
clothing. I don't have the name of it handy but I'am sure if you go to
any large auto store they will have it or something similar. You do
not want to use anything too oily, it will attract and hold dirt.
Eventually it will get so messy with dirt it will accelerate the wear
you are trying to avoid by lubricating! Give the latch mechanisms a
short shot of WD-40 and a small smear of the waxy lubricant on the
anchor pins. Of course you should wipe off any old dirt, grease, oil
before lubricating. Don't go crazy with the lubricant. More is not
better, just messy. If things are not working smoothly and in need of
adjustment, lubricating is not going to make it much better. If
everything is properly adjusted you hardly need much lubrication
anyway. Put a drop of light machine oil on the hinges. They should not
squeak. I also use a light wipe of silicon on the door seal. Spray it
onto a paper towel and then wipe the edge of the seal all around the
door. it will make the seal last longer and lubricate it so rubbing
won't tear it. You can also wipe it onto the door where it touches the
seal too. I think the slogan for Kroil is "Don't oil it, Kroil it". Am
I right?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Anyone ever heard of Kroil?  It's manufactured in Nashville. 
> www.kanolalabs.com  They make the best lubs and cleaners in the
world from 
> what I can tell.  Many people I have talked to about said it's the 








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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 14:20:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Custom Drilled Rotors

You don't mention how noisy it is. Also on many applications that are
cross-drilled the holes are angled which causes the rotors to become
"handed" so you can no longer use the left rotor on the right and
vice-versa. On the better cross-drilled jobs I do see the holes
countersunk so a less sharp edge is presented to the pads with a
minimal reduction in surface area but it does increase the noise
level. Anything you can do to keep the rotors cooler will increase the
life of the pads. Because the rotors on a Delorean are not ventilated
you probably gain a lot as compared to a ventilated rotor. The only
drawback I can see (besides the cost) is the higher noise level.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
> A few months ago I decided to research drilled rotors on the market,
> concentrating on drilled "solid" rotors.  I had a set of rotors with
> only a few miles use (plus a little rust) and decided to use them to
> see if I could get better performance than just the stock rotor.
> 
> When developing my design, I looked at hole diameters, hole patterns
> and small design enhancements that might further improve p






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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 08:16:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?

Kroil makes a number of products..


--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:

> I have heard of Kroil. I have even used it. I
> remember it as a very
> sticky, black oil. Not what you would want to use on
> the anchor pins.
<SNIP>




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 07:16:29 -0700
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: Lambda without Cat

Do euro-spec non-cat DeLoreans use a Lambda system? 
If they do, are they set any differently than us-spec D's?

Thanks!

Gary
IN2TIME





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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 15:29:55 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?

Thanks for all the feedback everyone.  I bought some white lithium 
greas this morning and will try that out.

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> I have heard of Kroil. I have even used it. I remember it as a very
> sticky, black oil. Not what you would want to use on the anchor 
pins.
> For door and hood latches and anchor pins I use a product that 
looks
> like a giant lipstick. It is very waxy and clear and won't soil
> clothing. I don't have the name of it handy but I'am sure if you 
go to
> any large auto store they will have it or something similar. You do
> not want to use anything too oily, it will attract and hold dirt.
> Eventually it will get so messy with dirt it will accelerate the 
wear
> you are trying to avoid by lubricating! Give the latch mechanisms a
> short shot of WD-40 and a small smear of the waxy lubricant on the
> anchor pins. Of course you should wipe off any old dirt, grease, 
oil
> before lubricating. Don't go crazy with the lubricant. More is not
> better, just messy. If things are not working smoothly and in need 
of
> adjustment, lubricating is not going to make it much better. If
> everything is properly adjusted you hardly need much lubrication
> anyway. Put a drop of light machine oil on the hinges. They should 
not
> squeak. I also use a light wipe of silicon on the door seal. Spray 
it
> onto a paper towel and then wipe the edge of the seal all around 
the
> door. it will make the seal last longer and lubricate it so rubbing
> won't tear it. You can also wipe it onto the door where it touches 
the
> seal too. I think the slogan for Kroil is "Don't oil it, Kroil 
it". Am
> I right?
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > Anyone ever heard of Kroil?  It's manufactured in Nashville. 
> > www.kanolalabs.com  They make the best lubs and cleaners in the
> world from 
> > what I can tell.  Many people I have talked to about said it's 
the







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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 10:40:22 -0500
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Richard's Journey to Santa Barbara, CA

We talked to Richard and Randy Monday morning. There were a couple of things
that still needed to be done on the car so DMCH  got the tickets for them to
fly home and will ship the car to Richard at no expense to him.

Bruce Benson



> I did'nt get Richard's last name, but he was the owner of the
> remanufactured Delroean that was unveiled at the DMCH open house last
> week.  It was the grey/auto that they had on the lift occasionally
> where one could practically eat off the frame.
> I met him and his co-pilot Randy, and was wondering if they were on
> this list.   I was curious to know how their 1,600+ mile trip went
> back to CA and if they had any interesting stories along the way.
>
> Christian Jarzab
> Phx, AZ





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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 10:15:03 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Possible Exhaust Leak

Exhaust leaks are common on Deloreans.  The culprit is almost always an 
exhaust manifold gasket or two, or three. Iron manifolds and aluminum 
heads expand at different rates.  This twists and tears at the gaskets 
around the exhaust ports and ruins them.  The comprehensive fix is to 
replace the gaskets by removing the exhaust system, muffler, crossover 
pipe, manifolds and all. Replace the gaskets and studs that broke, then 
re-assemble.  Easy say, hard do.
We sell a kit with all the stuff. Here it is:

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=3205&Qty=1&ShowCart=true

Warren at DMC


sweetp01569 wrote:
> I believe I have a slight exhaust leak.  It's a "puttering" sound when 
> I accelerate.  Is the exhaust manifold usually the culprit?  An 
> exhaust gasket was replaced in August 2004 by the previous owner.
> 
> Should I check manifold torques?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul




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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 08:14:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: intake manifold

FWIW, It looks like this intake would be nice for a
EFI conversion too!!


--- edherrmann <edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have any reaction to the prototype
> delorean carb intake 
> manifold being shown on E-bay right now. Would it
> work, how much of
> the 
> fuel injector system can be disconected, what about
> the air filter.
> Any 
> coments
> 




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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 11:34:45 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Possible Exhaust Leak

Hey, if your going to do all that work, might as well replace the exhaust 
with that new performance exhaust you guys sell right!
That's my plan soon.....

- VB

>From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Possible Exhaust Leak
>Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 10:15:03 -0500
>
>Exhaust leaks are common on Deloreans.  The culprit is almost always an
>exhaust manifold gasket or two, or three. Iron manifolds and aluminum
>heads expand at different rates.  This twists and tears at the gaskets
>around the exhaust ports and ruins them.  The comprehensive fix is to
>replace the gaskets by removing the exhaust system, muffler, crossover
>pipe, manifolds and all. Replace the gaskets and studs that broke, then
>re-assemble.  Easy say, hard do.
>We sell a kit with all the stuff. Here it is:
>
>http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=3205&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
>
>Warren at DMC
>
>
>sweetp01569 wrote:
> > I believe I have a slight exhaust leak.  It's a "puttering" sound when
> > I accelerate.  Is the exhaust manifold usually the culprit?  An
> > exhaust gasket was replaced in August 2004 by the previous owner.
> >
> > Should I check manifold torques?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Paul




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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 12:43:03 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?

Paul, Lithium grease is good but if your trying to get grease down inside
the hinge to prevent rust or just waterproof it and don't have a way to
force the grease in, that's where a spray on grease like the Poly 250 will
do it. Whether you buy it from me or someone else, it's the way to go.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/Polylub-250.jpg







-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of sweetp01569
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 9:30 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: What kind of lubricant should be used on door
latches?


> Thanks for all the feedback everyone.  I bought some white lithium
> greas this morning and will try that out.
>
> Paul

[long quote trimmed by moderator]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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