From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2688
Date: Saturday, June 18, 2005 1:22 PM

There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DMCH Open House Video
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: intake manifold
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: Modified Exhaust (DMCH Or Otherwise)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Re: Possible Exhaust Leak
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Possible Exhaust Leak
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Re: Lambda without Cat
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Re: Modified Exhaust (DMCH Or Otherwise)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

8. Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

9. Re: Possible Exhaust Leak
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

10. Re: Custom Drilled Rotors
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>

11. RE: Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. Re: intake manifold
From: doki_pen <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. RE: Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Modified Exhaust (DMCH Or Otherwise)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. Ebay Hitch Cover
From: "Matthew David" <DMC5524_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Gullwing Magazine website
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

17. VIN 6704
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 14:27:34 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DMCH Open House Video


Well, it looks like I will be able to stuff everything into one DVD.
It is about 2 & 1/2 hours so the bitrate is squished a little but it looks 
pretty good.
I am still compressing it right now, but it will be burned and ready to ship 
by Monday.

I am taking pre-orders, and in the tradition of my selling videos and taking 
pre-orders,
every PRE-ordered video recieved BEFORE this Monday, (06-20-05)
I will include a secret "goodie" with each order.
Again, that is only on videos ordered by Paypal this weekend.

The videos will be shipping out this Monday by mail.

To order your video just go to http://www.dfwdmc.com
and go to STORE, DVD VIDEOS, and scroll to the bottom of the page.
If you don't have any of my other videos then now would be a good time to 
get them
so you can lock yourself in a room and watch over 8 hours of DeLorean videos 
until
your eyes pop out!

Thanks everyone!
- Videobob

* Note: The following people will be getting FREE copies, DO NOT ORDER:
Ron Wester, Shannon Birdwell, Tony Ireardi, Harvey King, James Espey, and 
Stephen Wynne.






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 19:53:12 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: intake manifold

When Jeff advocates "taping up" all your old wiring in the engine
compartment, I don't think he does so to make room for NEW wiring...

Truth be told, a ready to use manifold is all that's been missing for
backyard tinkerers and experimenters. It will be interesting to see
what people come up with. I'm sure someone will eventually bolt a
throttle body onto one. Jeff recommends a carburetor from the racing
catalogs, which basically means "Holley" (run away, run away), but
that's the beauty of an open platform like this -- each person is free
to experiment however he or she wishes (if you buy a Holley, don't
come crying on my shoulder later....)

Speaking of open platforms, be aware that this is a VERY open plenum
design with absolutely no pretense of intake runners. Compare to mine
in #5939's photo album (which does have intake runners but uses a
common plenum itself). I'd anticipate best performance in the upper
RPM's. People give me a hard time about driving too fast, but part of
the problem is my engine simply isn't as happy sucking air below 2,000
RPM as it is above. For all my past ranting & raving about "buzzy
little engines", I've managed to build one for myself! But don't let
it ever be said that a low compression PRV can not quickly and easily
accelerate 2,800 lbs to 6,000 RPM, even with our fuel economy
transmissions (truth be told I can only do that in 1st & 2nd gears.
things start to fall apart in 3rd).

Which brings up a good point: I don't know if a stock ignition coil is
really up to high RPM's. Even though my Pertronix is still canister
style, it does recharge about 50% faster. I am running about 12v into
it (only one resistor), but Pertronix claims even that isn't
necessary. You could switch to capacitive ignition, but I've read just
as many arguments that a single duration spark, even at reduced
voltage (40,000 volt rating is taken at low RPM) actually has a better
chance of igniting the mixture at those speeds.

I can vouch that 7mm wires, even Bougicord, are not compatible with
high voltage ignition in the long term. If you're going to buy a new
coil, but some 8mm wires to go with it.

That's one nice thing about Jeff's new manifold -- changing a set of
plug wires around it takes less than 5 minutes!

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> FWIW, It looks like this intake would be nice for a
> EFI conversion too!!
> 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 19:59:21 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Modified Exhaust (DMCH Or Otherwise)

Warren: next time a car with your exhaust is on the lift, could I get
you to stick your head next to the transmission and verify how easily
everything normally hidden by the K Jetronic manifold is accessed from
underneath (stock exhaust out of the way).

I feel like a lonely prophet crying out in the wilderness on this issue.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> Now that you mention it... The DMCH Performance Exhaust is probably a 
> little easier to mount from scratch than stock.
> Wish I had a picture.  It's all shiney and badass, take my word for it.
> Part # 114001. $1495.00 plus shipping.  We make them in-house now so if 
> they're not in stock, you'll only wait for Jet-Hot to coat them, a 
> couple of weeks at the most.
> Warren at DMC
> 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 19:26:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Possible Exhaust Leak

Do not try to correct an exhaust leak by tightening things up. You
will just wind up breaking fasteners. Although it may be possible to
fix the one gasket that has failed the better answer is to remove the
entire exhaust system and replace ALL gaskets. Exhaust work is one of
the hardest and messiest mechanical jobs that you can do. It is best
left to someone experienced in this type of work. If you are not
careful you will break all of the fasteners trying to remove the
exhaust parts making the job even bigger and messier.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> I believe I have a slight exhaust leak.  It's a "puttering" sound when 
> I accelerate.  Is the exhaust manifold usually the culprit?  An 
> exhaust gasket was replaced in August 2004 by the previous owner.
> 
> Should I check manifold torques?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 20:21:21 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Possible Exhaust Leak

Or breaking components themselves. PO of my latest truck tried to
correct leaking sound from a rusted EGR system by tightening the ever
living mess out of the Y pipe. Ended up cracking one of the manifolds
clean in two. Then he sold it to me.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Do not try to correct an exhaust leak by tightening things up. You
> will just wind up breaking fasteners. Although it may be possible to
> fix the one gasket that has failed the better answer is to remove the
> entire exhaust system and replace ALL gaskets. Exhaust work is one of
> the hardest and messiest mechanical jobs that you can do. It is best
> left to someone experienced in this type of work. If you are not
> careful you will break all of the fasteners trying to remove the
> exhaust parts making the job even bigger and messier.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 20:16:36 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Lambda without Cat

Nope. Lower chambers in their fuel distributors are fed internally.

Euro spec CO is basically twice US -- 2% setting (versus 1%), 1%-3%
checking (versus .7%-1.3%). My experience was a single catalytic
converter, especially without air injection, did not like that (I had
a European engine bolted up to the factory exhaust).

I believe DMCUK will sell you a complete set of European components as
a kit (CPR, fuel distributor, and ignition distributor). Should yield
significant performance gains even on our low compression engines. As
the "manifold vacuum" thread pointed out, vacuum plumbing is different
too (much simpler).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_I...> wrote:
> Do euro-spec non-cat DeLoreans use a Lambda system? 
> If they do, are they set any differently than us-spec D's?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Gary
> IN2TIME






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 20:11:07 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Modified Exhaust (DMCH Or Otherwise)

More like a streetcorner prophet in a big city giving the same sermon 
every morning for the 200th time. What response are you expecting other 
than people averting their eyes as they walk by? 

People will either modify the exhaust or not for performance (or noise) 
reasons, I don't see anyone going to the trouble and expense solely for 
easy access to a couple of parts that, if the car is properly 
maintained, get touched every few years.

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Warren: next time a car with your exhaust is on the lift, could I get
> you to stick your head next to the transmission and verify how easily
> everything normally hidden by the K Jetronic manifold is accessed from
> underneath (stock exhaust out of the way).
> 
> I feel like a lonely prophet crying out in the wilderness on this 
issue.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 23:16:13 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...

Does anyone know of a good glue to attach the rubber piece of the
engine mount back to the steel pieces?  I tried using 3M's window-weld
but it's not working very well.  I really don't have any problem with
it until I try to re-install my engine.  If I happen to bump one of
the motor mounts with the engine while installing it, it almost
immediately becomes partially detached, and I then procede to tear the
rest of it off with my hand and curse and scream.

Additionally, would it be a bad thing if I got these made entirely
from steel?  I imagine the car would vibrate more, but I don't really
care.  It seems so ridiculous to mount an engine with glue.  

thanks,

Matt
#1604






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 03:42:16 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Possible Exhaust Leak

The most important part of this is resurfacing the manifolds 
themselves, or the gaskets will just blow out again. For some reason 
the engine surface will be just fine, but the cast iron manifolds get 
very pitted on the gasket surface. I use a stationery belt sander, but 
if you can have a machine shop do it that's even better. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Group, Warren is correct in what happens to the exhaust, But if you 
want to
> up grade to a higher standard of product Stainless Steel exhaust 
gasket
> instead of the old 3 piece gasket and 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 22:20:50 -0600
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Custom Drilled Rotors

David:

Can you describe what you mean by higher noise level?   and when?  
when braking?    I purchased a set of John Hervey's cross drilled and
I have noticed almost like a whining or a slight grinding noise when
braking (PADS ARE NEW ALL AROUND)  I noticed the new noise after the
rotors but didn't realize that it could be coming from that.   Is that
the likely cause of the new noise?

Rodney
3300

On 6/17/05, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
> You don't mention how noisy it is. Also on many applications that are
> cross-drilled the holes are angled which causes the rotors to become
> "handed" so you can no longer use the left rotor on the right and
> vice-versa. On the better cross-drilled jobs I do see the holes
> countersunk so a less sharp edge is presented to the pads with a
> minimal reduction in surface area but it does increase the noise
> level. Anything you can do to keep the rotors cooler will increase the
> life of the pads. Because the rotors on a Delorean are not ventilated
> you probably gain a lot as compared to a ventilated rotor. The only
> drawback I can see (besides the cost) is the higher noise level.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
> > A few months ago I decided to research drilled rotors on the market,
> > concentrating on drilled "solid" rotors.  I had a set of rotors with
> > only a few miles use (plus a little rust) and decided to use them to
> > see if I could get better performance than just the stock rotor.
> >
> > When developing my design, I looked at hole diameters, hole patterns
> > and small design enhancements that might further improve p




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 23:55:46 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...

Matt,
I don't know of any kind of glue. The rubber and metal is attached like a
vulcanizing process. The thing I would do would be to use the glue and patch
like in the old patches that was used in fixing flats. Believe it or not you
set the glue on fire to the point of melting as a small vulcanizing process
to re attach.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Matt Spittle
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 5:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...


Does anyone know of a good glue to attach the rubber piece of the
engine mount back to the steel pieces?  I tried using 3M's window-weld
but it's not working very well.  I really don't have any problem with
it until I try to re-install my engine.  If I happen to bump one of
the motor mounts with the engine while installing it, it almost
immediately becomes partially detached, and I then procede to tear the
rest of it off with my hand and curse and scream.

Additionally, would it be a bad thing if I got these made entirely
from steel?  I imagine the car would vibrate more, but I don't really
care.  It seems so ridiculous to mount an engine with glue.

thanks,

Matt
#1604




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 22:12:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: doki_pen <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: intake manifold

i guess you could put a shot of nitros on there too :)

Jon

--- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:

> When Jeff advocates "taping up" all your old wiring
> in the engine
> compartment, I don't think he does so to make room
> for NEW wiring...
> 
> Truth be told, a ready to use manifold is all that's
> been missing for
> backyard tinkerers and experimenters. It will be
> interesting to see
> what people come up with. I'm sure someone will
> eventually bolt a
> throttle body onto one. Jeff recommends a carburetor
> from the racing
> catalogs, which basically means "Holley" (run away,
> run away), but
> that's the beauty of an open platform like this --
> each person is free
> to experiment however he or she wishes (if you buy a
> Holley, don't
> come crying on my shoulder later....)
> 
> Speaking of open platforms, be aware that this is a
> VERY open plenum
> design with absolutely no pretense of intake
> runners. Compare to mine
> in #5939's photo album (which does have intake
> runners but uses a
> common plenum itself). I'd anticipate best
> performance in the upper
> RPM's. People give me a hard time about driving too
> fast, but part of
> the problem is my engine simply isn't as happy
> sucking air below 2,000
> RPM as it is above. For all my past ranting & raving
> about "buzzy
> little engines", I've managed to build one for
> myself! But don't let
> it ever be said that a low compression PRV can not
> quickly and easily
> accelerate 2,800 lbs to 6,000 RPM, even with our
> fuel economy
> transmissions (truth be told I can only do that in
> 1st & 2nd gears.
> things start to fall apart in 3rd).
> 
> Which brings up a good point: I don't know if a
> stock ignition coil is
> really up to high RPM's. Even though my Pertronix is
> still canister
> style, it does recharge about 50% faster. I am
> running about 12v into
> it (only one resistor), but Pertronix claims even
> that isn't
> necessary. You could switch to capacitive ignition,
> but I've read just
> as many arguments that a single duration spark, even
> at reduced
> voltage (40,000 volt rating is taken at low RPM)
> actually has a better
> chance of igniting the mixture at those speeds.
> 
> I can vouch that 7mm wires, even Bougicord, are not
> compatible with
> high voltage ignition in the long term. If you're
> going to buy a new
> coil, but some 8mm wires to go with it.
> 
> That's one nice thing about Jeff's new manifold --
> changing a set of
> plug wires around it takes less than 5 minutes!
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy
> <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > FWIW, It looks like this intake would be nice for
> a
> > EFI conversion too!!




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 05:56:47 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...

New motor mounts!

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...
>Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 23:16:13 -0000
>
>Does anyone know of a good glue to attach the rubber piece of the
>engine mount back to the steel pieces?  I tried using 3M's window-weld
>but it's not working very well.  I really don't have any problem with
>it until I try to re-install my engine.  If I happen to bump one of
>the motor mounts with the engine while installing it, it almost
>immediately becomes partially detached, and I then procede to tear the
>rest of it off with my hand and curse and scream.
>
>Additionally, would it be a bad thing if I got these made entirely
>from steel?  I imagine the car would vibrate more, but I don't really
>care.  It seems so ridiculous to mount an engine with glue.
>
>thanks,
>
>Matt
>#1604




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 13:25:45 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Modified Exhaust (DMCH Or Otherwise)

My concern was actually accessing the Valley of Death, not modifying
exhausts. How many times have I suggested remounting a stock crossover
pipe with stainless hardware?

I did not realize my presence in your eremitic little cloister, er
newsgroup, had become so burdensome. Lord knows there are 1,001 other
things I need to attend to, so I wish you the best of success in your
endeavors as our ownership experiences now diverge, only one of which
apparently remains without spots....

(Let's see if a moderator lets THIS message through).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> More like a streetcorner prophet in a big city giving the same sermon 
> every morning for the 200th time. What response are you expecting other 
> than people averting their eyes as they walk by? 
> 
> People will either modify the exhaust or not for performance (or noise) 
> reasons, I don't see anyone going to the trouble and expense solely for 
> easy access to a couple of parts that, if the car is properly 
> maintained, get touched every few years.
> 
> Dave S
> 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 16:01:39 +0000
From: "Matthew David" <DMC5524_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Ebay Hitch Cover


http://tinyurl.com/ape6d


Anybody own one of these? What do you think of it? Just curious.

Thanks,

Matthew







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 15:31:19 -0000
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Gullwing Magazine website

For those of you that have been asking about a Gullwing Magazine 
website, it is up and running at www.gullwingmagazine.com.  

You can preview each cover and the contents page to get an idea of what 
is in each issue.  Orders can also be placed online for any of the back 
issues and you may also subscribe to future issues.

In the last two years we have had many excellent articles written that 
cover the topics you have asked for more information on.  I've even 
found myself using my own magazine as a reference for doing work on my 
own DeLoreans.  

Dont miss another issue... check out www.gullwingmagazine.com today.

Thanks

Ron & Cheryl









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 17:00:24 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: VIN 6704

All,

I picked up the car at the dealership on Thursday, and drove it to 
Dave Swingles house.  He gave me a quick over all of the car, 
pointed out a few things that need to be done, like all of the 
hoses, vacum and cooling.  A little work on the frame deatialing. 
Where the problem spots are, etc.  He and his wife went out to 
dinner and we talked DeLorean the whole time, it's great that his 
wife is into the cars too.(Thanks Dave!)

Dave took me over to see Rich W's DeLorean limo chassis, good luck 
getting it moving.  I would really like to see that.

But I drove it from North of Chicago to Baltimore in one day and had 
no problems at all.  Car runs great, doesn't like the 3000 foot 
mountains though, no power, had to accelerate downhill.  But what a 
great handling car!  It goes immediately where I point it, with 
great road feel, and it never felt like it was going to get away 
from me.  Except for my giant size 13 feet getting stuck in the 
pedals.

I really look forward to meeting more people from this group as the 
work starts on the car, to really make it a show type car, not 
concours, I want to drive it.  I will most likely be at the show in 
Chicago next year.  Should I sign up now or can I wait?

Bernie






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------