From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2689
Date: Sunday, June 19, 2005 3:35 PM

There are 15 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Ebay Hitch Cover
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. dmc console clock
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>

3. Re: Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com

4. RE: dmc console clock
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. My Delorean is for sale
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Steering Column Bushing - tricks?
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

7. RE: dmc console clock
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>

8. Re: Custom Drilled Rotors
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Modified Exhaust (DMCH Or Otherwise)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

11. Re: Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Custom Drilled Rotors
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

13. RE: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

15. Re: dmc console clock
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 13:04:41 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Ebay Hitch Cover

No, But we can make them.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Matthew David
Sent: Saturday, June 18, 2005 10:02 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Ebay Hitch Cover



http://tinyurl.com/ape6d


Anybody own one of these? What do you think of it? Just curious.

Thanks,

Matthew




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 19:20:53 -0000
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: dmc console clock

After 3 years I am doing the last little nitpickiy thing on my car. 
One of those is the clock. Since my stereo has the time I have never 
really bothered but now want to know how much is involved in fixing 
mine. It has never worked since I got the car 4 years ago. Is there an 
easy checklist of how to tell whats wrong and if mine is fixable? I 
have all the normal electrical equip and can troubleshoot pretty well 
with instructions. Anyone out there who brought their clock back to 
life? I have read about the problems with these clocks but just wanted 
to see if mine still could work...

thanks for any help.
Mike C
2109 






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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 15:37:56 EDT
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...

Matt,

If you already have the engine out of the car I would just replace the 
mounts.  It's much easier to replace the mounts before you put the engine back in.  
Just make sure not to break the bolts on the engine or the mount bolts on the 
frame, both can become a real mess, (been there, done that, don't ever want to 
do that again).

Andrew
4194


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 14:55:48 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: dmc console clock

Mine used to blink on and off, it kept the time but the light would go on 
and off.
The best thing is to pull it out, spray it down with some "electronics wash" 
to clean
the connections and crusty flux, and then re-solder all the connections.
In my case, there was a resister that had poor contact.
After re-soldering all the connections it has worked perfect and bright
ever since without a problem.
Just be carefull not to move any of the adjustment pots, and be carefull
not to loose those little black adjustment pins!
Good luck!
- Videobob

>From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] dmc console clock
>Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 19:20:53 -0000
>
>After 3 years I am doing the last little nitpickiy thing on my car.
>One of those is the clock. Since my stereo has the time I have never
>really bothered but now want to know how much is involved in fixing
>mine. It has never worked since I got the car 4 years ago. Is there an
>easy checklist of how to tell whats wrong and if mine is fixable? I
>have all the normal electrical equip and can troubleshoot pretty well
>with instructions. Anyone out there who brought their clock back to
>life? I have read about the problems with these clocks but just wanted
>to see if mine still could work...
>
>thanks for any help.
>Mike C
>2109




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 20:07:53 -0000
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: My Delorean is for sale

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=4556962805







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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 20:42:01 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?

I plan to replace my steering column bushing soon.  From what I've
seen with some searching and my reading of the Shop Manual, this looks
like an arduous task.  Has anyone figured out a trick or two to make
this job quicker / easier / require less removal of stuff?

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894






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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 16:22:58 -0500
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: dmc console clock

Sorry for the real obvious question, but is the clock plugged in?  Mine
didn't work and I finally decided to look underneath and it had been
disconnected, probably for the same reason: the stereo had one.  It came
back to life, but it doesn't keep time well (runs fast typically and
gains about 3-5 minutes per day) and the green numbers combined with the
angle of the mount get pretty much washed out in bright daylight.  (My
'83 didn't have one so I had never seen one working and, silly me, I
really expected it to be a red clock instead of green.  Oh well.) Good
luck with it.

Kermit P
#4547


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of dmcmike2002
Sent: Saturday, June 18, 2005 2:21 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] dmc console clock

After 3 years I am doing the last little nitpickiy thing on my car. 
One of those is the clock. Since my stereo has the time I have never 
really bothered but now want to know how much is involved in fixing 
mine. It has never worked since I got the car 4 years ago. Is there an 
easy checklist of how to tell whats wrong and if mine is fixable? I 
have all the normal electrical equip and can troubleshoot pretty well 
with instructions. Anyone out there who brought their clock back to 
life? I have read about the problems with these clocks but just wanted 
to see if mine still could work...

thanks for any help.
Mike C
2109 




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 22:06:27 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Custom Drilled Rotors

With cross-drilled rotors you will hear a high pitched whine when the
car is moving with the volume and pitch changing as a function of
vehicle speed. It will change a little when the brakes are applied,
usually it quiets down when the brakes are applied.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> David:
> 
> Can you describe what you mean by higher noise level?   and when?  
> when braking?    I purchased a set of John Hervey's cross drilled and
> I have noticed almost like a whining or a slight grinding noise when
> braking (PADS ARE NEW ALL AROUND)  I noticed the new noise after the
> rotors but didn't realize that it could be coming from that.   Is that
> the likely cause of the new noise?
> 
> Rodney
> 3300
> 
> On 6/17/05, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > You don't mention how noisy it is. Also on many applications that are
> > cross-drilled the holes are angled which causes the rotors to become
> > "handed" so you can no longer use the left rotor on the right and
> > vice-versa. On the better cross-drilled jobs I do see the holes
> > countersunk so a less sharp edge is presented to the pads with a
> > minimal reduction in surface area but it does increase the noise
> > level. Anything you can do to keep the rotors cooler will increase the
> > life of the pads. Because the rotors on a Delorean are not ventilated
> > you probably gain a lot as compared to a ventilated rotor. The only
> > drawback I can see (besides the cost) is the higher noise level.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
> > > A few months ago I decided to research drilled rotors on the market,
> > > concentrating on drilled "solid" rotors.  I had a set of rotors with
> > > only a few miles use (plus a little rust) and decided to use them to
> > > see if I could get better performance than just the stock rotor.
> > >
> > > When developing my design, I looked at hole diameters, hole patterns
> > > and small design enhancements that might further improve p







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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 22:20:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Modified Exhaust (DMCH Or Otherwise)

I have to agree with Dave S. Not only are you talking about accessing
an area that with proper maintainence is rarely entered, believe it or
not, many owners do not do their own mechanical work so they do not
give a damm how hard it is for a mechanic to, for instance, bleed the
clutch. I do have to agree with you that removing the cross-over pipe
does give you much better access (on my turbo car I can get in there
easy!) but it is lost on most of the group. Besides, many people will
keep their cars stock and only do or spend money on things that they
HAVE to. Your repeating this will not convert many to your point of
view no matter how well intentioned. I would rather see most owners
replace the old cooling system hoses and seals but too many are still
running on origional parts. Now THAT is something that should be
insisted on! I would say you have to access the "Valley of Death"
every 20 years or so no matter if it needs it or not. It doesn't have
to be "easy" if that is how often you do it and no amount of easy
access is going to help if you have to deal with broken bolts! We each
have our point-of-view on how to do things and the order in which they
should be done, many may agree with your point-of-view, and others may
not. Repeating will not change most people's minds.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> My concern was actually accessing the Valley of Death, not modifying
> exhausts. How many times have I suggested remounting a stock crossover
> pipe with stainless hardware?
> 
> I did not realize my presence in your eremitic little cloister, er
> newsgroup, had become so burdensome. Lord knows there are 1,001 other
> things I need to attend to, so I wish you the best of success in your
> endeavors as our ownership experiences now diverge, only one of which
> 







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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 00:53:07 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...

Motor mounts are NOT serviceable. If defective they should be 
replaced. They are also readily available.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Does anyone know of a good glue to attach the rubber piece of the
> engine mount back to the steel pieces?  I tried using 3M's window-
weld
> Matt
> #1604






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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 22:26:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts keep coming unglued...

You will not be successful with repairing the motor mount. It was made
with a process called "Vulcanizing" and it cannot be "redone". The
only effective repair is to replace the part. It is not like fixing a
tire. If the motor mount is broken you should check ALL of them and
the metal brackets. A broken motor mount is an indication of hard
clutching and shifting (or improper removal or installation of the
motor/trans).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, AJL521_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Matt,
> 
> If you already have the engine out of the car I would just replace the 
> mounts.  It's much easier to replace the mounts before you put the
engine back in.  
> Just make sure not to break the bolts on the engine or the mount
bolts on the 
> frame, both can become a real mess, (been there, done that, don't
ever want to 
> do that again).
> 
> Andrew
> 4194
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 21:55:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Custom Drilled Rotors


So far I have not noticed any noise increase with this drilled rotor
design but I still have a couple of other noises in my driver's door
that may be masking the rotor noise, if any.

I also don't hear the turn signal relay half of the time.  he he.

Woody


		
____________________________________________________ 
Yahoo! Sports 
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football 
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 01:25:19 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?

I have heard of people splitting it, and pushing both parts in, and maybe 
putting a drop of super glue on it or something like that....
- VB

>From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Steering Column Bushing - tricks?
>Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 20:42:01 -0000
>
>I plan to replace my steering column bushing soon.  From what I've
>seen with some searching and my reading of the Shop Manual, this looks
>like an arduous task.  Has anyone figured out a trick or two to make
>this job quicker / easier / require less removal of stuff?
>
>Thanks,
>--Greg
>#2894




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 08:10:41 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?

Some people may tell you to cut it and then put it in, but that's not good 
IMO.
The hardest part is getting the steering column back in the knuckle and 
lined up correctly.
Be careful, go slow, and get an extra set of hands at the end when you are 
lining up the column and knuckle splines.
I had to do it twice-- I had the steering wheel 180% off because I took it 
too far apart.

One other item that is difficult, depending on which part you buy, may be 
putting the bushing into the footwall. I bought the hard delrin plastic 
piece from what is now DPNW. It's a great item, and should last forever. The 
OEM rubber one should be fine and last for many years if that is what you 
already bought.
-Kevin

On 6/18/05, gzapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I plan to replace my steering column bushing soon. From what I've
> seen with some searching and my reading of the Shop Manual, this looks
> like an arduous task. Has anyone figured out a trick or two to make
> this job quicker / easier / require less removal of stuff?
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894





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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 09:23:13 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: dmc console clock

Disassemble the shifter and remove the two screws that hold the clock to  the 
underside of the shifter plate.
 
Keep the clock plugged in.
 
Turn on the car.
 
Remove the clock cover exposing the clock itself. Be careful not to loose  
the two pins for time set.
 
Press on the edges of the clock to determine the bad cold solder  joints
 
NOTE:   THIS DOCUMENT MAY CONTAIN CONFIDENTIAL AND NONPUBLIC INFORMATION.  IT 
IS  INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL(S) OR ENTITY(IES) NAMED 
ABOVE, AND  OTHERS SPECIFICALLY AUTHORIZED TO RECEIVE IT.  If you are not the 
intended  recipient of this document, you are notified that any review, 
dissemination,  distribution or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have 
 received this communication in error, please notify me immediately by return 
 email, delete the electronic message and destroy any printed copies.  Thank  
you for your cooperation.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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