From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2690
Date: Monday, June 20, 2005 3:26 PM

There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DMCH Open House Video
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. Re: DeLorean Owners Association
From: "ocdelorean" <tonyhilger_at_dml_cox.net>

4. Auto Trans behavior
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

5. Re: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

6. Cooling Fans
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

7. RE: Cooling Fans
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. Re: Re: DeLorean Owners Association Opportunity
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

9. A/C Oil Quantity?
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

10. Re: Auto Trans behavior
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: DeLorean Owners Association
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

12. Re: Auto Trans behavior
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

13. A/C gas types
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>

14. RE: Cooling Fans
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>

15. Door switches - buzzer and light.
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

16. Oil residue pooling behind foot pedals
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

17. Re: Cooling Fans
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

18. Re: Oil residue pooling behind foot pedals
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

19. Re: dmc console clock
From: "JSJB100" <jsjb100_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 13:38:42 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DMCH Open House Video

I want to thank everyone who is supporting me on this project, and it looks 
like many of you
are smart to make your pre-orders and get the "goodies".
I wish I could tell you what it is but I can't.
I will tell you it is a DVD video and that I am pretty sure almost none of 
you have it
or would even know that it existed.
I will also tell you that it is NOT the "Car Crash" BBC show, or any of the 
other
UK made documentaries.
None the less, you will enjoy it and it will be included with your DMCH Open 
House Video.
I plan to mail them all out Monday or Tuesday.

If you are undecided and have not ordered the video yet, tonight will be 
your last chance
to get the freebie video package.
After tonight, (Sunday 6-19) you will only be able to buy the DMCH Open 
House video
by itself from the website, and it will not come with the extra bonus video 
that I do not
sell and do not list anywhere.

If you want to order, simply go to my website at:
http://www.dfwdmc.com and click on STORE, then go to DVD VIDEOS
and scroll to the bottom where you will find the Paypal button for the 
video.
The cost is only $9.99 and includes the shipping.
Orders received by the end of tonight will qualify for the special bonus 
video.

Thanks again to all of you who did order, and your videos will be sent out 
ASAP!
- Videobob
VIN#5278






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 20:58:17 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?

It's not that bad just to remove stuff. Just a lot of standing on your 
head. I think the idea about splitting the bushing is not an optimimum 
shotcut for the long haul, and I'm not sure what all it saves you. 
--mark and disconnect the steering u-joints via the two access panels 
in the trunk (on a rusty car this is the worst part). You have to 
completely remove the screws to get it to separate from the steering 
column and the rack (optional). You will need to spread the slip joint 
slightly to get it to collapse. Some PB-blaster is helpful here too. 
--remove kneepads
--remove a/c tube that goes across the bottom of the column
--unplug three cables
--remove two tiny nuts and two large nuts/bolts holding the columm in 
place.
--bend the two metal clips that held the kneepads up to get them out of 
the way. Don't worry, they bend back just fine
--drop and pull out the column
--replace the bushing. The old one will either fall out or be missing. 
Either pull the new one in (with a home made puller) or drive it in 
with a big hammer and a socket
--take a rat-tail file and enlarge the hole in the bushing slightly in 
the downward direction from the inside of the car
--pull the lower steering shaft out of the column
--insert the lower shaft thru the bushing. Make sure the same side is 
still up or your matchmarks on the universal joints will be 180 degrees 
off
--put the column back in the car, connecting it to the lower shaft on 
the way in. Swing it up into place and re-attach with the two large 
nuts/bolts first.
--reverse everything else. 

If you don't get screwed up this can be done in an hour or two. I've 
had it take a lot longer. I usually take the opportunity to clean and 
re-paint and anti-sieze the lower steering column (i.e.u-joint 
assembly). 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I plan to replace my steering column bushing soon.  From what I've
> seen with some searching and my reading of the Shop Manual, this looks
> like an arduous task.  Has anyone figured out a trick or two to make
> this job quicker / easier / require less removal of stuff?
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 22:40:45 -0000
From: "ocdelorean" <tonyhilger_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Owners Association

Hello everyone,

First of all, we'd like to thank Stephen and staff for having such a
nice event in Houston.  It 
was a pleasure to meet all of you.  There are many exciting things
coming by way of the 
DeLorean Owners Association.  This is a first post for myself and I
wanted to answer any 
questions one may have in regards to the Association.  You can
personally send any 
inquiries to my email.  New board members including myself have
contributed greatly to 
the future of the Association.  As a member for 10+ years, I decided
to play a pro-active 
role and help out rather than be critical.  The board members that
did represent the 
Association in Houston kindly contributed their personal time and
finances to travel down 
to this event.  Thank you. I would also like to thank all of you who
have supported the 
Association in the years past and present.  I look forward to meeting
and speaking with 
many of you in the future.  See you all at Eurofest.

Kind Regards,

Tony Hilger
DeLorean Owners Association-vice president
dw magazine-director
director_at_dml_deloreanmagazine.com

www.deloreanmagazine.com





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> AT THE CLUB'S EXPENSE?!  
> 
> Now we know why the membership fees are high.
> 
> 
> --- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> > The DOA has attended many events that they do not
> > sponsor or
> > participate in. They send officers of the club at
> > the club's expense.
> <SNIP>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 20:17:53 -0500
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Auto Trans behavior

After a couple of weeks off (Houston and family stuff) I'm back to diagnosing the auto trans in my project car. As David T advised, I acquired an oil pressure gauge and hooked it up. Service manual spec is 8 bar (113 PSI) with the vacuum hose disconnected and in drive at 2500 RPM. 

The torque converter noise is still gone (as you remember last time, I swapped torque converters with another trans and after about 5 minutes of running it cleared up. Still a bit of a mystery, but as long as the noise is gone I'm happy). I've also exchanged the leaky and possibly blocked cooling pipe. 

Currently the pressure reading is 125  PSI, or about 8.8 bar in gear at 2500 RPM. Temperature did not seem to make much difference. (In park/reverse/neutral it's more like 180 psi.) So here are the questions:
--Is this very high pressure in Park normal? 
--I can obviously adjust the pressure down to where it should be - how normal is this to have to do?
--I have the computer governor completely disconnected at the moment. It seems to me that the trans should operate as a "manual" i.e. if you put the lever in 1, it stays in one. As it is, if I put the shifter in 1 or 2 its in 2, if I move it to "d" its in 3rd. I can't seem to get it to find first gear. Again, the governor is disconnected, so both shift solenoids are un-powered and out of the equation. As far as the electrics are concerned, it's in third gear. 
--I've checked the linkage adjustment and I'm sure the shifter is aligned with the trans, in fact I have to hold it forward a bit to hit the "start" switch so I'm sure it's going in to first when it says it is. 

Am I missing something? Still a blob of goo somewhere in the trans? Is the slightly high line pressure screwing with things? 

Thanks ---

Dave Swingle



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 00:12:28 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?

Greg - There are only so many ways that you can simplify this task, 
and our instructions that come with our delrin bushings have all the 
known "tricks". As Kevin said, you really need two people because you 
are working both inside and outside the car at the same time.  I feel 
your pain - I will be installing one of ours in a customer's car next 
weekend.  As I said, there are some tips, but there is no "magic 
formula".

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I plan to replace my steering column bushing soon.  From what I've
> seen with some searching and my reading of the Shop Manual, this 
looks
> like an arduous task.  Has anyone figured out a trick or two to make
> this job quicker / easier / require less removal of stuff?
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 21:17:03 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Cooling Fans

[Moderator Note:  Please notice that this message is a question, not a statement of fact.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]




I was told by an owner that cooling fans are not required on Deloreans 
in colder climates. You can read about it here.

http://www.entermyworld.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=15897#15897

A perfectly tuned DMC engine has no need for fans in colder climates. 
Does your car run hot? If so, tune the darn thing!!!


Is this true?

Mark V






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 21:55:56 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Cooling Fans

Mark,
It is possible to get by with out the cooling fans depending on your driving
habits. Short hauls or long hauls. But, If everything is working ok, then
the thermostat should let the engine get up to operating temp and the fans
would cool the coolant going back to it. But at the least I would have one
of them come on to cut down on the current draw or my new fans that take
less than 1/2 the current. That may be living a little to dangerous to not
have either come on. One moment you forget to look down and your
overheating.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of DMCVIN6683
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2005 8:17 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Cooling Fans


[Moderator Note:  Please notice that this message is a question, not a
statement of fact.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]


I was told by an owner that cooling fans are not required on Deloreans
in colder climates. You can read about it here.

http://www.entermyworld.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=15897#15897

A perfectly tuned DMC engine has no need for fans in colder climates.
Does your car run hot? If so, tune the darn thing!!!


Is this true?

Mark V




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 23:06:16 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Owners Association Opportunity

Will there be any events on the East Coast or Midwest in the future. It has been some time since the DOA recognized that there are DeLoreans (and members) anywhere but the West Coast and involved us! You have  me again as a member for three years (after a five year lapse) , the real goal should be to retain all of the members you regain! 



Cecil Longwisch
Jacksonville, FL
#10663


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: ocdelorean<mailto:tonyhilger_at_dml_cox.net> 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2005 6:40 PM
  Subject: [DML] Re: DeLorean Owners Association


  Hello everyone,

  First of all, we'd like to thank Stephen and staff for having such a
  nice event in Houston.  It 
  was a pleasure to meet all of you.  There are many exciting things
  coming by way of the 
  DeLorean Owners Association.  This is a first post for myself and I
  wanted to answer any 
  questions one may have in regards to the Association.  You can
  personally send any 
  inquiries to my email.  New board members including myself have
  contributed greatly to 
  the future of the Association.  As a member for 10+ years, I decided
  to play a pro-active 
  role and help out rather than be critical.  The board members that
  did represent the 
  Association in Houston kindly contributed their personal time and
  finances to travel down 
  to this event.  Thank you. I would also like to thank all of you who
  have supported the 
  Association in the years past and present.  I look forward to meeting
  and speaking with 
  many of you in the future.  See you all at Eurofest.

  Kind Regards,

  Tony Hilger
  DeLorean Owners Association-vice president
  dw magazine-director
  director_at_dml_deloreanmagazine.com<mailto:director_at_dml_deloreanmagazine.com>

  www.deloreanmagazine.com<http://www.deloreanmagazine.com/>





  --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y<mailto:malevy_nj_at_dml_y>...> wrote:
  > AT THE CLUB'S EXPENSE?!  
  > 
  > Now we know why the membership fees are high.
  > 
  > 
  > --- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w<mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_w>...> wrote:
  > 
  > > The DOA has attended many events that they do not
  > > sponsor or
  > > participate in. They send officers of the club at
  > > the club's expense.
  > <SNIP>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 03:28:28 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: A/C Oil Quantity?

I have read the posted proceedure on dmcnews.com regarding converting 
the a/c system. However, it doesn't give a specific quantity for the 
oil. I have not been able to locate a specific quantity in the 
workshoop manual either.
If the system and compressor are fully emptied/flushed, and the 
drier/accumulator replaced, what is the correct amount of oil to use 
in the compressor and also to "pre-fill" the drier/accumulator? Can I 
also assume it will be the same for either 134A or R12?
Thanks,
Stephen
Vin 3601







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 03:32:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Auto Trans behavior

Although the pressure is a little high I wouldn't say it is too high.
Idealy you should lower it. The higher pressure is going to make it
shift hard and may cause more internal leakage of the seals possibly
even causing one to blow out. Higher is better than lower, low
pressure will cause the clutch packs to slip under load. I never tried
operating a trans without the shift computer although in theory with
shift hold you *should* be able to manualy shift from 1st to 2nd and
3rd by moving the gearshift. Be aware that there is no governor so it
may be possible to overspeed the trans in the lower gears. Maybe that
is why it won't go into 1st without being commanded by a solenoid. As
you can see the trans was designed with a "limp-home" mode. With
complete loss of power and shift computer you go to both solenoids off
which gets you 3rd gear. You may have trouble getting moving but it
does allow you manual shift hold and access to 3rd gear. The fluid
pressure is a really good indicator of the internal health of the
transmission. It tells you if the fluid pump can output at rating and
if there are any serious internal leaks. The pressure spec is for
Drive, the fluid paths are very different for Park, Reverse, and
Neutral so I would follow the Workshop Manual and adjust it for Drive.
The valve body is not very sophisticated in a Delorean, most of the
speed sensing and shifting is handled by the Governor-Computer
assembly (aka shift computer). Read the last sentance on G:01:02 left
side, bottom Para.  Again, there is no hydraulic governor in this
transmission to protect it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> After a couple of weeks off (Houston and family stuff) I'm back to
diagnosing the auto trans in my project car. As David T advised, I
acquired an oil pressure gauge and hooked it up. Service manual spec
is 8 bar (113 PSI) with the vacuum hose disconnected and in drive at
2500 RPM. 
> 
> The torque converter noise is still gone (as you remember last time,
I swapped torque converters with another trans and after about 5
minutes of running it cleared up. Still a bit of a mystery, but as
long as the noise is gone I'm happy). I've also exchanged the leaky
and possibly blocked cooling pipe. 
> 
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 04:09:16 -0000
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Owners Association

I was curious if the "new board members" are all based in California, 
or is the representation from around the country... or world for that 
matter?

Also, will the DOA be recognizing and reporting on Ken K's DeLorean 
Car Show?

Im just wondering if the biggest DeLorean show will get the attention 
it deserves from the biggest DeLorean group... the DOA

Respectfully
Ron

Gullwing Magazine



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ocdelorean" <tonyhilger_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
> 
> First of all, we'd like to thank Stephen and staff for having such a
> nice event in Houston.  It 
> was a pleasure to meet all of you.  There are many exciting things
> coming by way of the 
> DeLorean Owners Association.  This is a first post for myself and I
> wanted to answer any 
> questions one may have in regards to the Association.  You can
> personally send any 
> inquiries to my email.  New board members including myself have
> contributed greatly to 
> the future of the Association.  As a member for 10+ years, I decided
> to play a pro-active 
> role and help out rather than be critical.  The board members that
> did represent the 
> Association in Houston kindly contributed their personal time and
> finances to travel down 
> to this event.  Thank you. I would also like to thank all of you who
> have supported the 
> Association in the years past and present.  I look forward to 
meeting
> and speaking with 
> many of you in the future.  See you all at Eurofest.
> 
> Kind Regards,
> 
> Tony Hilger
> DeLorean Owners Association-vice president
> dw magazine-director
> director_at_dml_d...
> 
> www.deloreanmagazine.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > AT THE CLUB'S EXPENSE?!  
> > 
> > Now we know why the membership fees are high.
> > 
> > 
> > --- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > 
> > > The DOA has attended many events that they do not
> > > sponsor or
> > > participate in. They send officers of the club at
> > > the club's expense.
> > <SNIP>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 23:16:47 -0500
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Auto Trans behavior

I guess that's the shorter question I should have asked - how does the trans
behave in limp-home mode (i.e. when the CG fuse is blown)? Can it be fully
manual-shifted or is it what I'm seeing? Because that's essentially the mode
it's in.

I agree - in the current mode, the solenoids are in 3rd gear but the
hydraulics are in 1, 2, or 3 depending on the lever. Maybe the hydraulics
won't over-ride 3rd all the way to 1st by design, to avoid overspeeding it,
for example by pulling the lever in to 1st gear at speed. Makes sense, I
just would like to know how it is supposed to work.

Thanks;

Dave
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2005 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: Auto Trans behavior


>---> 3rd by moving the gearshift. Be aware that there is no governor so it
> may be possible to overspeed the trans in the lower gears. Maybe that
> is why it won't go into 1st without being commanded by a solenoid. As
> you can see the trans was designed with a "limp-home" mode. With
> complete loss of power and shift computer you go to both solenoids off
> which gets you 3rd gear. You may have trouble getting moving but it
> does allow you manual shift hold and access to 3rd gear. The fluid
> pressure is a really good indicator of the internal health of the
> transmission.---
Read the last sentance on G:01:02 left
> side, bottom Para.  Again, there is no hydraulic governor in this
> transmission to protect it.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > After a couple of weeks off (Houston and family stuff) I'm back to
> diagnosing the auto trans in my project car. As David T advised, I
> acquired an oil pressure gauge and hooked it up. Service manual spec
> is 8 bar (113 PSI) with the vacuum hose disconnected and in drive at
> 2500 RPM.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 08:00:09 +0100
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
Subject: A/C gas types

I am nearing the end of rebuilding my aircon system (evaporator blew) and 
wondering what gas would be best.

>From what I understand:-

R12:-
+ low pressure, less strain on the seals throughout the system.
- illegal, flammable.

R24 or is it RS24:-
+ low pressure, less strain on the seals throughout the system.
- rots the seals.

R134a:-
+ non-flammable
- does not run as cold, runs at higher pressure therefore more likely to 
find leaks.

I have got the above pro's and con's correct.  What should I go for?

Thanks

Chris H.
vin 5255 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 23:19:08 -0500
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Cooling Fans

Mark - 
Please look at the guy's posts further down, in particular:  
"Look at the car - it is a street racer. We're talking 3 AM shenanigans
here... I've never claimed I let the thing idle at 2 PM in July".
He only drives the car at night doing "street racing" evidently.  As
long as you can keep enough air flowing thru the radiator it may not
overheat, but woe to those who get stuck in traffic. I recently lost the
fan circuit breaker while in a drive thru lane...80 degrees, early
evening, took about 2 minutes to overheat.   Also note that the guys
demo video was done in the evening at relatively high speeds...too bad
he didn't actually show the temperature gage after the drive.   And -
Ireland isn't exactly warm...somebody over there must've thought the
fans were needed.
I'd say buyer beware.

Kermit P.
#4547 

-----Original Message-----
From: DMCVIN6683
Subject: [DML] Cooling Fans

[Moderator Note:  Please notice that this message is a question, not a
statement of fact.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]


I was told by an owner that cooling fans are not required on Deloreans in colder climates. You can read about it here.

http://www.entermyworld.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=15897#15897





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 13:31:40 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Door switches - buzzer and light.

I am having trouble keeping my driver side buzzer and light switch off 
with the door closed.  The previous owner glued a rubber pad on the 
door to attempt to make up for some gap that didn't allow the contact 
pins to push in enough to shut the buzzer and light off.  Instead, the 
pad was allowing the plastic contact pins to bend to one side and 
never push in, resulting with annoying buzzer and light on when 
driving.  I removed the rubber pad.  The switches almost work now, but 
activate when I take a sharp right or when I go over bumps (the door 
shifts just enough to turn them on).  It's hard to tell what I need to 
do with the switches.  Perhaps I just need to extend the pins with 
some makeshift hardware, but not sure about length, materials , etc.  
I know that I could disconnect them, but I'd like to have them working 
properly.   Anyone else encounter this?

Thanks,

Paul







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 13:42:08 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Oil residue pooling behind foot pedals

I haven't determined which linkage is related to this yet, but wanted 
to ask the group.  I noticed a little pooling of what looked like oil 
behind the foot pedals under an area where linkage passes through the 
foot well.  The linkage had what looked like a little rubber boot that 
appeared to be where the oil was presented from.  It was oily around 
the little boot, and seemed to drip to a recessed area below it where 
is formed a small puddle.  The carpet below didn't seem affected, but 
I may have noticed the floor mat having a greasy feeling to the touch, 
but nothing major.

Is it common to have "fluid" passing through the wall behind the 
pedals?  Could is  be something leaking from the brake or clutch fluid 
fill-up areas?  I'll probably figure it out once I have a chance to 
dig into it a little, but it's nice to have some expectations going in.

Thanks,

Paul






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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 15:07:49 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling Fans

Tuning the PRV, or any other engine has nothing at all to do with the 
need, or lack there of, for cooling fans. All cars do indeed need them, 
yes. You never know where the vehicle is going to end up, in traffic, 
etc. So without the cooling fans, the vehicle is unreliable. Even lots 
of air-cooled engines require a fan to blow air through them to cool 
them down.

Is it possible to drive around, and not have the cooling fans turn on? 
Yes, this is indeed possible with any vehicle, depending upon the 
enviornmental conditions around it, length of time the vehicle is 
driven, and how hard it is driven. But this isn't the correct question 
that needs to be asked. I read the description of this car, and what 
the seller is stating. He says that he doesn't need cooling fans to 
operate the car. However, what he is failing to tell you, is what 
temperature the car is currently running at. Yes, you could remove the 
fans, and tool around town, and yes, the car would run. But it may not 
be running properly, if you're cruising around with the temperature 
sitting at 230F+. Sure, the car will run in the sense that it drives 
around. But the life of it's head gaskets will be significantly 
shorter. Because of those temperatures, your aluminum heads are going 
to expand ALLOT more, and will stress and eventually tear the head 
gaskets all that quicker.

Now, with this car in particular, take a look at the picture of the 
engine bay, from the eBay auction. Notice the radiator cap. That's a 
16lb. "leve-r-vent" cap (matches Dodge Dakota), and is NOT what the 
system requires. Take it from me, a person who had admittedly abused a 
DeLorean in the process of learning car repair. That cap being too 
highly rated for the DeLorean cooling system is dangerous to the car. 
The cap of course is designed to vent out excess pressure in the even 
of the car overheating. The reason for this, is so that no permanent 
components, such as hoses, pipes, or head gaskets are blown apart by 
high water pressures. I ran one of these same caps on my car, and over 
heated it. Before the cap blew off the pressure, two hoses were 
breached, and sprayed coolant out (hose from the over flow bottle to 
the metal pipe, and the lower hose on this same pipe, that bends below 
the car).

So imagine if I said this about my car: It has no cooling fans, it runs 
improperly hot, and to keep the cooling system from breaching, a 
heavier radiator cap is installed to prevent the car from purging 
coolant. Sure it drives around, but at the same time, I'm doing long-
term damage to the engine. Does it still sound like I don't need 
cooling fans installed? Let alone like tuning an engine is magicly 
going to make a car run cooler?

If to significantly lower operating temperatres, this person 
has "tuned" the engine, I'd be worried that he's running it too rich, 
and may just be washing out the cylinders.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> [Moderator Note:  Please notice that this message is a question, not
a statement of fact.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]
> 
> I was told by an owner that cooling fans are not required on 
Deloreans in colder climates.





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 15:33:32 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Oil residue pooling behind foot pedals

Leaky clutch master cylinder. Eventually you will lose the clutch 
operation, but it takes a while to completely fail.  (If the brake 
master leaks it runs down outside the car (all over the frame)). 

Until you replace the cylinder, put a small rag under it where that 
rubber seal is - the brake fluid is hard to get out of the carpet.

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> I haven't determined which linkage is related to this yet, but wanted 
> to ask the group.  I noticed a little pooling of what looked like oil 
> behind the foot pedals under an area where linkage passes through the 
> foot well.  The linkage had what looked like a little rubber boot 
that 
> appeared to be where the oil was presented from.  







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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 14:45:48 -0000
From: "JSJB100" <jsjb100_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: dmc console clock

Mike

A couple of things I found out with my 81 clock: 1)the plastic pins 
are quite breakable, I got a set of stainless steel pics from 
http://www.delorean-steel-products.de/frmsetel.html

2. Taking the clock apart is easy, the front cover pops off...yes, 
you may break the plastic pins, but as noted above, you can replace 
them with stainless steel pins.  Once I did that and cleaned it up, 
worked fine (connections had to be cleaned.

3. Make sure the previous owner didn't disconnect the clock 
somehow....thinking that it would drain his/her battery

I have an extra clock that I bought from Josh Haldeman (that works) 
when I thought mine was kaput....but turns out it wasn't.  You can 
email me privately as jsjb100_at_dml_aol.com if you have any additional 
questions.

Joe B.
VIN #2957
Outtatym






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