From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2693
Date: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 5:34 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DOA
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: DOA
From: Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com>

3. Re: Vacuum Routing Diagram for Climate Control System?
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

4. Re: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

5. RE: Need some info!
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. rear link arm bushings
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Auto Trans behavior
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: A/C Oil Quantity?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

9. Re: Passenger Mirror
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: Door switches - buzzer and light.
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

11. RE: Passenger Mirror
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. Spark Plugs?
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

13. Re: Passenger Mirror
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

14. RE: Clutch Fluid - Dot 4
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

15. DOA and DML
From: "Fedeli, Joe \(DSCP\)" <Joe.Fedeli_at_dml_dla.mil>

16. Re: Oil residue pooling behind foot pedals
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

17. Re: Clutch Fluid - Dot 4
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

18. Re: Clutch Fluid - Dot 4
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

19. Re: Oil residue pooling behind foot pedals
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

20. RE: Re: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Door Lock Removal
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

22. Re: DOA
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

23. RE: Spark Plugs?
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

24. Re: Door Lock Removal
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

25. RE: Need some info!
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 14:16:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DOA

Many nasty things were said by "officials" of the DOA
about the DML, and generic Internet groups.

They even went as far as to serve legal notice to
James (who "owned" the DML at the time).  I don't
remember the exact reasons for the letter, but the
archives probably have it all.

I am glad the whole DOA/DML thing happened.  IMHO, it
motivated a lot of the great things we have now.  DCS,
and Gullwing Mag come to mind.

--- Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> Considering I'm relatively new to the community
> (only
> 2 years now), I've heard relatively little in terms
> of
> the "separation of DOA and DML".  Can a moderator or
> someone who knows what went down privately email me;
> I
> feel kind of in the dark here as to what all went
> down
> what seems so many years ago.
> 
> Jeremiah
> 


		
____________________________________________________ 
Yahoo! Sports 
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football 
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 16:27:21 -0500
From: Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com>
Subject: Re: DOA

Jeremiah,

My suggestion on this topic is that we not worry about the past and  
judge the relationship based on current actions and personalities.  I  
don't believe anything can be gained by looking back.

Just my two cents.

Bryan Pearce
Pearce Design Components

On Jun 21, 2005, at 2:13 PM, Jeremiah Montee wrote:

> Considering I'm relatively new to the community (only
> 2 years now), I've heard relatively little in terms of
> the "separation of DOA and DML".  Can a moderator or
> someone who knows what went down privately email me; I
> feel kind of in the dark here as to what all went down
> what seems so many years ago.
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 15:55:12 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuum Routing Diagram for Climate Control System?

Gary,

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/images%5C730.gif

There are more details in the workshop manual, too.

-Ryan

On 6/21/05, Gary Weaver II <gw2tulsa_at_dml_cox.net> wrote:
> Does anyone have a diagram of the Vacuum Line system near the climate controls?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 23:02:39 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?

Joe - I have not experienced this issue of undersized inner diameters 
on the bushings that we make and offer.  Many vendors have these made 
by whatever machine shop is local to them, and ours have always 
worked without function or fit issues that I have been made aware 
of.  The bushing is a bit of a press-fit, so the inner diameter of 
the loose part must be established to account for the slight 
reduction in diameter after installation.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> Does this mean that the bushing is actually not quite the right 
size? If so, can a production change be made so that future bushings 
don't need to be modified to work correctly?
> 
> -Joe Kuchan
> 
> 
> >Do make sure you rat-tail file or power drill grind the inside of 
the bushing so the lower column moves freely inside. 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 18:55:41 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Need some info!

>The base timing?
13 degrees BTDC

>Radiator cap pressure?
15 lbs

>How do you evaluate the condition of the engine using a compression
>test?
You can find this all over the internet, but basically:
  - Remove all spark plugs
  - make sure battery is well charged
  - connect compression tester to any cylinder
  - disable fuel pump (pull up plunger of iniertia switch
  - disconnect HT wire from tower of ignition coil. GROUND the output of the 
coil with another wire!
  - crank motor. watch gauge. record readings on 1st and 4th puffs. write 
down the numbers
  - repeat on all other cylinders
  - refer to any of the readily available engine diagnosis web pages for how 
to interpret results.
  - if a cylinder is low, add a couple of teaspoons of oil to it. crank over 
motor a few times to distribute oil. reconnect compression tester
  - repeat test (This is called a "wet" test and helps determine if your 
rings are bad.)
>How to disable the ignition system?
  - As above: disconnect HT wire from tower of ignition coil. GROUND the 
output of the coil with another wire! Alternative: Disconnect the primary 
wiring to the coil.
>How to disable the fuel delivery system?
  - pull the fuse on the fuel pump

-Joe Kuchan






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 00:10:41 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: rear link arm bushings

Hey all has anyone ever replaced the bushings in the upper and lower link 
arms on the rear...Mine are starting to disinegrate and i dont want to spend 
100 an arm if i can put urethane bushings in ... new bushings from the 
vendors are 50 apiece which accounts for the arm prices... thanks..Dave..






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 00:56:13 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Auto Trans behavior

I have always assumed based on the diagnostic chart G:04:01 that you 
could not get correct pressures or correct clutch and brake 
application without the solenoids working. The chart implies that 
fluid is routed by the valves in drive and in 1 or 2 "hold". 
Therefore, I'm not surprised you have no 1st hold without the valves 
both "on". I'm not sure I would recommend manual shifting in 
the "limp" mode. I have used a by-pass switch that Ben Byrd had 
diagramed in one of his old DeLotech news letters years ago that 
allows you to shift the trans electrically in order to verify a 
defective trans computer. Works nicely in place of computer while 
waiting for the replacement or rebuild. Let me know if you need a 
copy of the article.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I guess that's the shorter question I should have asked - how does 
the trans behave in limp-home mode (i.e. when the CG fuse is blown)? Can it be fully manual-shifted or is it what I'm seeing?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 02:05:50 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: A/C Oil Quantity?

The sankyo(sanden) compressor is a big compressor (10 cubic in) The 
compressor should have at least 7 but not more than 10 oz of oil in 
the system. In a dry system I use 9 oz of oil because of the extremely 
long lines and a large amount of freon. The accumulator will hold 
excess oil as long as you don't have too much. I put half in the 
compressor and half in the accumulator to start a dry system.

R-12 calls for mineral/500 oil, with 134a you should use PAG/100 
(Synthetic). The orifice tube is the same - be sure to put in a new 
one and always use a new accumulator when the system has been broken 
down and exposed to air. R-12 use 2.25 - 2.5 lbs of freon; R-134a use 
90 percent of that. pressures with 134a will be about 5-10 percent 
higher.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> I have read the posted proceedure on dmcnews.com regarding 
converting 
> the a/c system. However, it doesn't give a specific quantity for the 
> oil. I have not been able to locate a specific quantity in the 
> workshoop manual either.
> If the system and compressor are fully emptied/flushed, and the 
> drier/accumulator replaced, what is the correct amount of oil to use 
> in the compressor and also to "pre-fill" the drier/accumulator? Can 
I 
> also assume it will be the same for either 134A or R12?
> Thanks,
> Stephen
> Vin 3601







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 02:26:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Passenger Mirror

If you are lucky it is just the switch. It could be the motor but that
is not very likely. Before buying a switch (which it shouldn't be if
it works on one mirror) you have to go over the wiring. One bad
connection in one of the several plugs between the switch and the
passenger mirror will cripple 2 directions. Up and down is the same
electrical circuit, just with reverse polarity. Pull all the plugs
apart and make all the connections shiny. Run the motor with jumper
wires and then test it at each plug till you find the one that is
causing the problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


> byrondelorean wrote:
> > My passenger mirror operates left & right, up and down doesn't work.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 21:28:05 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door switches - buzzer and light.

I put a vacuum cap on mine after it split off.
Now the dash structure underneath is weakened and basically broken because 
the cap was too long and the switch had to go somewhere, so it broke the 
support.
I want to go magnetic when I reglue/fiberglass this up proper.
-Kevin #4687


On 6/20/05, Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Had the same exact problem. Vacuum caps are the answer... should be
> cheap at your local auto supply shop.
> 
> --Greg
> #2894
> 
> On 6/20/05, sweetp01569 <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com> wrote:
> > I am having trouble keeping my driver side buzzer and light switch off with the door closed.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 21:29:25 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Passenger Mirror

Motor or switch. It would have to come apart to really tell.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of byrondelorean
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 8:02 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Passenger Mirror


My passenger mirror operates left & right, up and down doesn't work.
Drivers mirror works perfect. This happened recently. I checked all
the plugs, everything seems to be in place. Could this be the motor in
the mirror?

Thanks for the help.
Byron






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 03:18:52 -0000
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Spark Plugs?

When i start my car, it starts really rough,black smoke comes out of 
the exhaust for about 1.5 min then it runs normal. This is bad for the 
spark plugs because when i first got the car it wouldnt start, i 
cleaned the old spark plugs and it worked for about 2 weeks, then they 
were coated again and the car woldnt start. I just put new spark plugs 
in and im afraid this is going to happen again, i checked one of them 
and from brand new thay are pretty coated. I think too much gas is 
getting into the chabers and it isnt burning all of it or something. I 
need some advice of regulators to check or sensors. What are those 
adjusting bolts on top of the enigne, infront of the air filter? 
Anyway im not going to deal with it, but any advice i can forward to 
my mechanic would be great. Thanks






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 08:23:35 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Passenger Mirror


It's most likely one of the connectors, especially the one in the door
near the mirror. Try to play with those wires a bit. Also the mirror switch
itself sometimes works a bit hard. But he motor itself normally works fine.
When playing with the connector in the door you can test the motor very
easily with some extra wires.

Elvis & 6548 - 33 hours from departure to Rimini !


> My passenger mirror operates left & right, up and down doesn't work. 
> Drivers mirror works perfect. This happened recently. I checked all 
> the plugs, everything seems to be in place. Could this be the motor in 
> the mirror? 
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> Byron
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Weitersagen: GMX DSL-Flatrates mit Tempo-Garantie!
Ab 4,99 Euro/Monat: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/dsl




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 21:35:29 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Clutch Fluid - Dot 4

Paul, The clutch fluid and brake fluid are the same and most use what is on
the site. This comes up all the time so I took a picture of the bottle for
reference and put it on the site several months ago.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/brake-fluid.jpg



-----Original Message-----
From: sweetp01569
Subject: [DML] Clutch Fluid - Dot 4
I just ordered a clutch master cylinder and stainless clutch line. I
was an an auto parts store (CAP) recently and didn't specifically see
DOT 4 fluid.  One had a label that said "exceeds Dot 3 and 4 specs",
but not sure if this is suitable.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 07:13:17 -0400
From: "Fedeli, Joe \(DSCP\)" <Joe.Fedeli_at_dml_dla.mil>
Subject: DOA and DML

We'll see if this post makes it...I've been involved with DeLoreans
since 1982.  Unfortunately politics are still too controlling of both
organizations with spins and moderating aplenty.  Time will tell, but
leopards don't change their spots, they hide well to resurface suddenly.
My opinion based on 20+ years of historical DeLorean club facts I've
personally experienced with some of it's people leaders and
vendors...most members are dedicated GREAT hobbyists, unfortunately they
do not control the DeLorean media presence but work the delete button
well...Joe


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 12:20:35 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Oil residue pooling behind foot pedals

Ryan,

Thanks for the advice on bleeding the system.  I will definitely get 
the bleeder kit.  I am also getting the stainless braided clutch 
line.  Is this hard to install?

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Paul, bleeding the clutch is not as bad as it sounds.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 12:22:25 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch Fluid - Dot 4

Thanks George,

I did stop by Walmart this morning.  Bought some Prestone DOT 4 
fluid.

Thanks!

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, George DeLorean 
<phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Paul,
>      as for DOT 4 fluid, Wal Mart typically sells it. 
> Sometimes it is synthetic, sometimes it is regular.
> 
>                         George D.
> 
> Where will you end up?  In Shangri-La, or Hell's Pit???
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 13:24:41 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch Fluid - Dot 4

I feel honored for reaching such a milestone number for the times 
this has been asked!

Sorry for the inquiry about the DOT 4 fluid.  I have to stop being 
lazy and start searching the archived posts!

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> For the 1500'th time in the history of the DML..
> 
> 
> USE Castrol GT LMA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> ____________________________________________________ 
> Yahoo! Sports 
> Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football 
> http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 12:24:44 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Oil residue pooling behind foot pedals

Hey Joe,

Great tips for this job!  My engine cover needs a little work 
anyway.  Good time to do that as well!

A picture would be great!

Paul



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "JSJB100" <jsjb100_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Paul
> 
> Since Dave and Marty M. just gave me lots of email advice on how 
to bleed the clutch, I can tell you a couple of things.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 06:35:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?

Joe,
I believe it was intended to be that way. DMCH's instructions say to file the
inside to fit smoothly. Initially I did not because I wanted a tight fit. What I
got was too tight of a fit.

Shannon Y
16506

-------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 11:21:01 -0500
   From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Steering Column Bushing - tricks?

Does this mean that the bushing is actually not quite the right size? If so, 
can a production change be made so that future bushings don't need to be 
modified to work correctly?

-Joe Kuchan





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 10:25:31 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Door Lock Removal

List:

I did look this up in the archives and found some results, however I still seem to be having some issues removing the early style door lock from the door.  I also could not find any procedure in the manuals.  I'm removing it because it almost looks like the PO used the wrong key a few times and completely destroyed the tracks the key rides on when inserted into the lock.  Does this sound like something a competent locksmith could rebuild?  I'm not too excited about $200 for new locks, and the passenger side is fine.

Also while I had the door apart I noticed the only use for the door solenoids and the whole electric locking system is to lock both sides of the car with one turn of the key.  If this is right I don't see why people haven't just removed the whole electric locking system that has so many problems around it as it is and make it purely mechanical.  Granted you would have to walk all the way to the other side of the car and lock that side too, or better yet lock it from the inside before you get out.  If that's the price I have to pay to rid of the system that kills your battery and burns the solenoids to the point where you are stuck in (or out) of your car, I'll gladly take it.  Then you could also remove the heavy solenoids from the door and relieve some tension from the torsion bars to help prolong the life of the bars, struts, roof structure, etc.  Any thoughts?  If this has come up before I apologize for the repetition.

Thanks,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 13:30:43 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: DOA

I'm only a three month newbie and I, too, have no idea about the 
past politics that occured on this site.  I do see some of 
the "tensions" that build over certain subjects or parts compared 
between vendors.  I just appreciate the existence of this community, 
which I am using as my primary resource for technical advice about 
my car.  The fast and courteous responses to my questions makes me 
happy to be part of the "Delorean family".  I hope the tensions are 
more akin to "sibling rivalry" than true hostilities.

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Considering I'm relatively new to the community (only
> 2 years now), I've heard relatively little in terms of
> the "separation of DOA and DML".  Can a moderator or
> someone who knows what went down privately email me; I
> feel kind of in the dark here as to what all went down
> what seems so many years ago.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 10:36:34 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Spark Plugs?

Check the operation of the warmup regulator. It controls the control 
pressure which sets the amount of fuel that flows for a given airflow. A 
fuel poressure tester designed for use with a K-jet is required to a proper 
job of this.

Also check that the CO adjustment isn't way off. You can do that with a 
dwell meter hooked across the frequency valve.

-Joe

>From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
>Subject: [DML] Spark Plugs?
>
>When i start my car, it starts really rough,black smoke comes out of
>the exhaust for about 1.5 min then it runs normal.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 08:53:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Door Lock Removal

 
Todd,
 
Don't bother removing all the electrical stuff just to get your locks to stop working.  All you have to do is unplug the power to the door lock module and you will accomplish exactly what you suggest.  If you're going to take the time to remove all the stuff, spend 100 bucks and buy Toby's actuator system.  You can still use the factory lock module (if it hasn't been destroyed yet) and you take away that heavy solenoid.  I've been using them on 1063 with the factory module for about 25,000 miles of frequent daily use, so they come highly recommended.  I think the thing only took me an hour or so to install.
 
There are several reasons people don't remove the locking system: 
- excess wear on both key locks (which are VERY difficult to obtain)
- the electrical power loss shouldn't be an issue if you get your car out more than twice a year...
- they work great for keyless entry
- when you open the door for your female passenger, your door is waiting unlocked for you
- and I just like having power locks
 
Just buy Toby's kit or a Lockzilla.  Fixed once, and they'll never give you another thought.
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063
 
 


Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu> wrote:
List:

I did look this up in the archives and found some results, however I still seem to be having some issues removing the early style door lock from the door.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 16:01:02 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: Need some info!

When you are cranking, make sure the throttle is completely open.
Test should be run with engine at operating temperature.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>: -------------- 


> >The base timing? 
> 13 degrees BTDC 
> 
> >Radiator cap pressure? 
> 15 lbs 
> 
> >How do you evaluate the condition of the engine using a compression 
> >test? 
> You can find this all over the internet, but basically: 
> - Remove all spark plugs 
> - make sure battery is well charged 
> - connect compression tester to any cylinder 
> - disable fuel pump (pull up plunger of iniertia switch 
> - disconnect HT wire from tower of ignition coil. GROUND the output of the 
> coil with another wire! 
> - crank motor. watch gauge. record readings on 1st and 4th puffs. write 
> down the numbers 
> - repeat on all other cylinders 
> - refer to any of the readily available engine diagnosis web pages for how 
> to interpret results. 
> - if a cylinder is low, add a couple of teaspoons of oil to it. crank over 
> motor a few times to distribute oil. reconnect compression tester 
> - repeat test (This is called a "wet" test and helps determine if your 
> rings are bad.) 
> >How to disable the ignition system? 
> - As above: disconnect HT wire from tower of ignition coil. GROUND the 
> output of the coil with another wire! Alternative: Disconnect the primary 
> wiring to the coil. 
> >How to disable the fuel delivery system? 
> - pull the fuse on the fuel pump 
> 
> -Joe Kuchan 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------