From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2696
Date: Thursday, June 23, 2005 8:00 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. How to know when a frame needs replaced
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

2. Re: DOA
From: "Charlie" <charles_az1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Clutch Fluid - Dot 4
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Fuel line order and placement
From: "David Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

5. Re: Door locks
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

6. Reason for passenger window not closing? Gap toward front...
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>

7. Re: Fuel injector additives
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. RE: Need some info!
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Rear frame cutting
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

10. Re: Rear frame cutting
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

11. Re: Reason for passenger window not closing? Gap toward front...
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

12. Re: Door Lock Removal
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

13. Re: Reason for passenger window not closing? Gap toward front...
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Re: DOA
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

15. Re: Reason for passenger window not closing? Gap toward front...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Fuel injector additives
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Re: DOA
From: Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com>

18. Re: How to know when a frame needs replaced
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. RE: Spark Plugs?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. RE: Re: DOA
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

21. Re: Re: Upper door seals
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

22. Re: How to know when a frame needs replaced
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_comcast.net>

23. Oops!!!!
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

24. Re: Re: A/C Problems RESOLUTION!
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

25. Re: DOA (long response)
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 00:33:54 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: How to know when a frame needs replaced

My battle with frame rust has been ongoing since I purchased my car. 
I recently noticed while removing loose epoxy from the front end that
the front end extension is rusting from the inside out.  I know that
the rear part of the frame is also in this condition.  I removed the
rust and coated the exterior parts of the frame with POR-15, but I
can't get into the inside sections of the frame obviously.  

How long will my frame last like this?  I can't imagine my car is the
only one in this shape.  Even looking at Robert's Lotus swap on
Tamir's website, I can see that his frame was rusting from the inside
out when when he cut away parts of the rear part of his frame.  I may
be able to afford the stainless frame in a few months, but a lot of
other provisions will need to be made in order to swap the frame
completely, like moving the car to a different garage, etc.  

The toughest part about this has been that parts of the frame that
looked perfectly fine were actually rusted underneath.  On my car, a
single 3" crack in the epoxy somewhere can easily mean an entire
square foot of rust underneath.  The more I chip away at my frame out
there, the sicker it makes me.  

Any thoughts?

thanks,

Matt
#1604









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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 00:35:22 -0000
From: "Charlie" <charles_az1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DOA

I agree, I joined because of the cars.  Don't know what happend in the 
past, but I know they treat me good.  Not everyone in the DOA is 
corrupt,whatever.ect..at least none I have met. 

Charlie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> On 6/21/05, Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> > Jeremiah,
> > 
> > My suggestion on this topic is that we not worry about the past 
and judge the relationship based on current actions and personalities. 
I don't believe anything can be gained by looking back.

Just my two cents.
 
Bryan Pearce
Pearce Design Components
 







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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 00:43:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch Fluid - Dot 4

I am sure Valvoline is a fine product but most service shops have
extensive experience with Castrol and is most widely recomended by the
shops that do work on British cars (read Girling). I am sure that
there are distributers in your area that handle the Castrol line of
products and can get the brake fluid for you if you ask. Failing being
able to get it that way you can get it shipped to you from any number
of venders including the "D" venders. It can be used in any modern car
as replacement or to just "top off" so just use it as your only brake
fluid for all your cars. It can be mixed with DOT 2 or 3 if the other
cars you have use it, just ONLY use DOT 4 in a Delorean. The price of
brake fluid is small compared to a rebuild of a brake or clutch system
so I say use the best. No matter what you choose to use it should
still be flushed out every 2 years. It seems the rubber used in the
seals lasts longer with Castrol than other brands. I am not a chemist
so I can't explain why. It is just that others have observed by
experience what works and what doesn't.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


- > 
> > USE Castrol GT LMA
> 
> See, this is what I've read and heard dozens of times but you know
> what? I can't find it in my area. I've been to every auto parts store and nobody has it.
> 
> I settled for what they did have - Valvoline SynPower. This is a fine
> choice if you can't find the Castrol.
> 
> -Ryan






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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 20:51:30 -0400
From: "David Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel line order and placement

Since the fuel lines have no "firing order" like the distributor for the
spark plugs, the long hoses go on the ones furthest away and the short hoses
go closest. The fuel distributer is split where lines 1-2-3 are on the right
side and 4-5-6 are on the left side.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ashtonorlan" <ashtonorlan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 6:02 PM
Subject: [DML] Fuel line order and placement


> I am reinstalling my fuel system. Does anyone know they exact order of
> the fuel lines from the distributor? A picture reference would be great.
> The retroserver site had one but its down.






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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 00:56:12 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Door locks

Something is wrong with the connecting rods in the door of the lock 
and/or door handles. Probably the locking screws on the door lock 
rods have loosened up or they are dragging against the door lever 
rods. I have seem the mounting screws for one of the piviots come 
loose and give this symptom. Take off the top interior trim piece 
and observe the functions. I am guessing it will be obvious.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jerry Harry" <jlharry_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Each time I try to open the drivers door the inside lock lever  
comes out of the open position and goes to about the middle of it's 
range and the door is effectively locked.  I can hold the lock 
unlock lever in the open position and the door opens fine.  If I do 
not hold it, it will move to the middle like position and the door 
is locked, it doesn't move until I lift either open lever, then it 
moves and locks the door.
> Has anyone seen this, which adjustment is out to cause this?  I 
have REMOVED the lock selinoid, it had no power any way but I found 
that it's plunger moved with the linkage and decide it was not 
needed, as it has been powerless forever.
> This condition requires that I leave the drivers window down so I 
can reach in and hold down the lock unlock lever while I open the 
door.  Sure would like to close that window.
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> Jerry
> Vin# 4890
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 01:02:21 -0000
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Reason for passenger window not closing? Gap toward front...

I am purchasing a DeLorean and the current owner of the car stated that the passenger 
window has about a 1/8" gap in the front. He said that the window is on track, and that the 
motor is working.  What could the reason be for this? Could the tracks be not lined up 
properly?  Could the motor be going? From the pictures of the window setup it looks as if the 
window is lifted from the back. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Derek






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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 01:04:08 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel injector additives

Marvel Mystery Oil is the only additive I would use to clean the fuel 
system. It is old school stuff but it works very well. It also seconds 
as a good gas stabilizer.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> What is the general thoughts on using fuel injector 
cleaner/additives 
> in the gas?






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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 20:12:11 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Need some info!

Yes. That was my oversight. Keep the throttles open.

-Joe

>From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
>Subject: RE: [DML] Need some info!
>
>When you are cranking, make sure the throttle is completely open.
>Test should be run with engine at operating temperature.
>--
>Mike




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 19:57:50 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Rear frame cutting

I am planning on removing my engine to do some needed maintenance to 
the frame and engine area plus exhaust manifold leak repair.

I noticed on the Pearce Stainless Steel frame the rear section unbolts 
to make the engine remove easier.

Well on my car i was planning on cutting this piece out but leaving 
tabs on each side so i can bolt it back on when i am done.

My question is "What are your thoughts on me doing this?".

Mark V





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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 01:27:18 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Rear frame cutting

Pearce designed the frame to be cut and bolted in this manner. I'm 
not sure DMC/Lotus did. I'd be cautious about it, it's undoutedly a 
structural member in addition to being the main source of support for 
the bumper.

It's not all that much in the way to removing the engine, by the way. 
Just remove the facia and pull away!

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I am planning on removing my engine to do some needed maintenance 
to 
> the frame and engine area plus exhaust manifold leak repair.
> 
> I noticed on the Pearce Stainless Steel frame the rear section 
unbolts 
> to make the engine remove easier.
> 
> Well on my car i was planning on cutting this piece out but leaving 
> tabs on each side so i can bolt it back on when i am done.
> 
> My question is "What are your thoughts on me doing this?".
> 
> Mark V







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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 01:30:23 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Reason for passenger window not closing? Gap toward front...

I've seen the glass tend to slide back or up in the metal mount over 
time. You need to take the glass out of the bottom support track and 
glue it back in. It's obvious where it's supposed to go when you get it 
out - you can see the original marks on the glass. Some were glued and 
some were installed with double-sided tape, the tape ones seem to have 
the problem more. I glue them back together with 3M Urethan Windshield 
adhesive. If the original was glued its a annoying job. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> I am purchasing a DeLorean and the current owner of the car stated 
that the passenger 
> window has about a 1/8" gap in the front. He said that the window is 
on track, and that the 
> motor is working.  What could the reason be for this? Could the 
tracks be not lined up 
> properly?  Could the motor be going? From the pictures of the window 
setup it looks as if the 
> window is lifted from the back. Any ideas would be appreciated. 
Thanks.
> 
> -Derek






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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 02:11:50 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Door Lock Removal

Mike,

When I first attempted to remove my early style locks about a year
ago, I first called to DMC Texas to find out how to remove them.  The
gentleman there who answered said that the way their technicians
removed them was by breaking them.  He also said that they would be
producing new locks in about a month or two.  They did not have any
available at that time, and luckily I ended up finding a new set of
locks by posting to this list.  Someone responded who still had an NOS
pair of locks in the original packaging.  

Since you know how to remove them, I'm sure everyone would benefit if
you posted a HOWTO publically, and then maybe Dave S. could put it on
the dmcnews site in the tech section.  I haven't heard of anyone being
able to remove the early style locks without damaging them; at least
not without cracking the plastic outer ring.  I'd like to congratulate
you for your know-how.

thanks,

Matt
#1604
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Matt,
> 
> Due to the cost involved for new locks, I disagree
> with your statement that you can "plan on destroying
> them".  I've had my locks out on 1630 (both sides) 3
> or 4 times and I still haven't "destroyed" them.




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 02:37:29 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Reason for passenger window not closing? Gap toward front...

My car does the same thing. On the passenger side window where the 
roll down window meets the stainless lip and rubberstrip seal there is 
a considerable difference in the front as apposed to the back. the 
front of the window barely makes contact with the seal, while the back 
is mased up with the seal. For the life of me I could not fix the 
problem. I tried to move the tracks to have the window sit better. I 
even removed the entire motor assembly to see what was going on in 
there. Apart from removing the fixed glass section and re-allinging so 
it is closer to the back I just had to live with it. I't could be due 
to the upgraded motor/channel assembly. It doen't fit in there as well 
as the original did. Is your motor assembly new or original?

Jason
2256




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 21:41:21 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DOA

I have never gotten my answer from the DOA on the DML if they are going 
to start to recognize the local clubs that they did away with in the 
past?

Why is the DML a good thing now when it was damaging to the DOA before?

Please answer on the DML so everyone can benefit from the answer to the 
question's i just asked.

After all the DOA said we are all Delorean owners and should stick 
together at DMCH's open house.

Mark V



 
    I also find it very interesting that the DOA has all of a sudden 
> decided to utilize their arch rival, the "DML" to try and promote 
> their own orginization. Fool me once, shame on you ... fool me 
> twice..........
>
>   Marty Maier




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 03:01:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Reason for passenger window not closing? Gap toward front...

The most likely reason for the window to not be closing properly is
that the front guide is off the track. It is not an expensive repair
but it can be time-consuming. In any case it is not a reason to pass
up the car but the cost of repairing it by a shop should be considered
when agreeing on the price. It needs to be fixed or rain will get in
and ruin the interior (if the car is left outside in the rain). It
also won't help the A/C any when driving.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> I am purchasing a DeLorean and the current owner of the car stated
that the passenger window has about a 1/8" gap in the front.




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 03:04:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel injector additives

I use Marvel Mystery Oil on motors I rebuild with the first fill of
oil to help break in the motor. I was also told it is a great injector
cleaner on diesel motors.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Marvel Mystery Oil is the only additive I would use to clean the fuel 
> system. It is old school stuff but it works very well. It also seconds 
> as a good gas stabilizer.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> > What is the general tho








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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 22:15:04 -0500
From: Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DOA

Marty,

A couple of thoughts on your posting below:

On Jun 22, 2005, at 6:32 PM, wingd2_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>  I hope you are right on this, <SNIP>

I am not trying to be right or wrong about the current DOA.  My  
statement was that nothing can be served by looking back at the  
problems of the past.  The DeLorean community is too small to have  
fighting between various owners.  How can we expect the DeLorean car  
and dream to last into the future without a positive dialog between  
ALL owners.

>   Now I'm not a current DOA member and as such have no facts to  
> back any of this up. Of course, in the past being a DOA member did  
> you no good in trying to look at the books anyway, so their  
> finances have always been speculation, but..... <SNIP>

You specifically mention the books.  When I was a member, I remember  
that on a yearly basis a balance sheet was published of the club's  
condition.  I have not taken a look at back issues of DeLorean World  
to see if it was in the magazine or a newsletter.

>    I also find it very interesting that the DOA has all of a sudden  
> decided to utilize their arch rival, the "DML" to try and promote  
> their own orginization. Fool me once, shame on you ... fool me  
> twice..........

You make it sound like the entire DOA was responsible for the  
abrasive relationship of the past.  However, this situation was  
caused by a select few people with large voices.

The financial commitment to the DOA for a three year membership and  
all back issues of DeLorean World is relatively small.  Three years  
as a member of the New DOA is sufficient time to find out what kind  
of club the DOA will become.

Bryan Pearce
Pearce Design Components

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 02:56:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: How to know when a frame needs replaced

You are learning that in the case of rust the damage you see is only
the tip of the iceburg. When you start cutting it out you generally
have to remove a very large area to get back to "good stuff". You
cannot undo the damage already done except by removing the rusted out
sections and replacing them with fresh metal. You can stop the damage
from progressing. There are many products on the market that can do
it. Basically they provide a barrier to keep moisture from reaching
the metal and continuing the oxidation process. To get inside closed
sections of the frame you have to cut a hole for access. At some point
it may be decided that instead of repairing a lot of patches an
outright frame swap is a better choice. There will be a whole lot more
to a frame swap then just moving parts over. In the process you will
replace a lot of parts, break a lot of fasteners, clean everything,
paint brackets, etc. In the meantime if the rust is not really bad in
critical areas like the front crumple zone or engine cradle you can
live with it. I see cars with whole sections of frame missing and they
still drive (not Deloreans). It is amazing how much can disappear and
still work!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> My battle with frame rust has been ongoing since I purchased my car. 
> I recently noticed while removing loose epoxy from the front end that
> the front end extension is rusting from the inside out.





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 22:58:19 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Spark Plugs?

You may have real bad injectors and they are leaking down causing the rich
black smoke or the air flow meter is adjusted to rich and can't go to the
rest position to shut off fuel going to the injectors. I would check out the
injectors first. If that isn't it then I can walk you through how to adjust
the air flow meter.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: stefandmc
Subject: [DML] Spark Plugs?

When i start my car, it starts really rough,black smoke comes out of
the exhaust for about 1.5 min then it runs normal.




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 23:19:51 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DOA

Bryan, I have to agree with Marty. I see a board member that as long as they are on I feel nothing will change in more ways than one.
Just my 2 cents.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
Subject: [DML] Re: DOA

   From: Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com>
Subject: Re: DOA
My suggestion on this topic is that we not worry about the past and
judge the relationship based on current actions and personalities.  

Bryan Pearce
Pearce Design Components


  Bryan,

  I hope you are right on this....... Time will tell, and I hope it proves me wrong.
   I also find it very interesting that the DOA has all of a sudden decided to utilize their arch rival, the "DML" to try and promote their own orginization. Fool me once, shame on you ... fool me twice..........

  Marty Maier





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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 23:37:12 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Upper door seals



Ryan,

Easy peasy for a guy like you:  Remove the back screen (3 screws, covers the 
torsion bar plates), then remove the outer door seals in the channel at the 
*back* of each door (6 screws, 3 behind each door on the top of the "T" 
hidden by the outer seals).  Lift up slightly to clear the flange, pull the 
panel toward the rear of the car, then lift up and it's off.  It's easier to 
remove with two people to stabilize it so you don't scratch the tops of your 
doors.  It'll be off in 5 minutes.

When you put it back together, do it in reverse order.  -But make sure you 
fully open both doors before tightening back down the screws.  This will 
nudge the T-panel to the most center position.

Jake
1063

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Upper door seals


> Folks,
>
> How, exactly, do you remove the T panel? I need to install new upper
> seals as well, and would prefer to remove the panel to do so.
>
> -Ryan
> 




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 22:42:48 -0700
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: How to know when a frame needs replaced

Hi Matt,
  Unfortunately, I'm in the same boat your in. I actually stopped driving my 
DeLorean 3 months ago because it's now a safety issue. The rust is on the 
left side of the front frame rail. It starts behind the lower suspension 
pivot and ends at the back before the shifter hole in the center frame. I 
just happened to look under one day after hearing a noise while driving.
The more I grabbed at the rusted metal it would just come off in chunks. 
There is only about 10% of the metal beam left towards the top of that side 
of the frame rail. And the Skidplate underneath the fuel tank is just epoxy, 
no metal. I can stick my fist through it.

  The cause of the area rusting is the Radiator pipe on the left side. It 
had a small leak and dripped back in between the fuel tank and the frame 
rail on the left hand side. I have been on the lookout for another small 
restoration frame out there.
I'm also aware of the Stainless Frame but can't justify spending $8,000.

  But the thing that really upsets me is, I can't just stop at just swapping 
a frame. You know, once you get that deep into a project of this size I'll 
end up replacing bushings, A/C lines, fuel lines, brake lines, fittings, 
balljoints, bushings, radiator, hoses, clutch, etc. And the area to perform 
a swap will be difficult to find the room. So I want to buy the frame and 
fix it powdercoat it and start buying the parts I need to do the 
Restoration. And when I have everything purchased and ready to put on then 
I'll start the swap.
Until then my DeLorean will sit in the driveway with it's cover on for next 
summer until I'm ready.

Matt good luck on your swap,
Mike
Vin#1113 "Dead" 





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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 00:13:03 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Oops!!!!

Well, I've gone and screwed up my engine on a test-run tonight.  I had just replaced the radiator and hoses and a ton of other things and took her out on the open road.  She overheated in under 5 minutes at highway speed.  I thought I could make it to a gas station before anything serious happened to the engine.  She steadily lost power as I approached an exit and the engine died shortly after a 'steaming teapot' sound came from the engine compartment.  I let it cool for 30 minutes and proceeded to 'slowly' put water in the water tank.  It was then that I noticed water pouring from the left side of the engine (couldn't see exactly where).  Two hours later she cranked up and was blowing water out of both exhaust pipes.  Not good at all.  Guess I blew a 'head gasket'.  
So......  Should this shade tree mechanic pull the engine and replace all gaskets?  Should I take it in to a shop, (to much cost for labor) and have them do it?...  Should I purchase a rebuilt engine from DMC in Houston?  Is there another 'crate' engine that would fit the D's engine compartment and transmission (something with more gusto than the D's stock engine)?

Thanks yall.
Lingo #02034 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 01:06:03 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: A/C Problems RESOLUTION!

(long post to include details)


All,

I am happy to report that last weekend I solved my strange A/C problem.  To 
bring everyone up to speed, my conditions were:

-compressor NEVER cycled off; on constantly
-A/C "worked", but was never as cold as it should be
-replaced orifice tube, accumulator bottle, and low pressure switch
-compressor and hoses were less than 5 years old with no leaks
-evap would periodically leak on passengers' feet, but the hose still 
drained
-Vacuumed and replaced freon

I had stopped using the A/C because I didn't want to break something by 
running it the compressor and fans continuously.  Periodically, when it got 
hot enough, I would use it for special occasions.  While it can be fun to 
watch female passengers squirm when cold water drips on their feet, it's 
mildly embarrassing because they don't understand why it happens.  So last 
Saturday, I set out to increase the flow from my evaporator drain tube.

I removed the fan motor and worked my hands into the evaporator box (where 
is Jim Reeve when you need him?!).  Working very slowly with the use of some 
tools and my giant hands and forearms, I found some junk near the evaporator 
core that I was able to pinch and remove.  Then I spent a good deal of time 
pumping water from my garden hose into the evaporator casing, rinsing the 
evaporator, while a shop vac was hooked up to the drain hose outside the 
car.  When I was satisfied that the drain was flowin', I put it back 
together.  I took the car for a drive and checked the A/C, just for grins. 
After a few minutes, I start hearing the click of the compressor clutch 
behind me.  WTF?? This is the first time I've heard that from my car.  Yee 
haw!!  The compressor and fans cycle exactly with the frequency I'd expect, 
and my vent temperatures are typically about 38 degrees F.  Last night, it 
was about 88 degrees outside in the 6PM sun and my vent temperature hit 
about 31 degrees F, fan speed 3, with the compressor cycling every 10 
seconds or so.  You can imagine my excitement....

My theory is that the dirt on the evap was enough to make the system work 
inefficiently enough to never cycle off, despite low pressures showing at 
the compressor.  Now there are still some things I can't understand:  Why 
did my compressor insist on staying on even when the system was at vacuum 
with no freon??  Perhaps most cars with these conditions are being cycled 
from the high pressure side, making it rather unnoticeable.  --My car has 
never been fitted with a high pressure switch.  Admittedly, I've been too 
busy to think much about this because I've been spending all my time in my 
ice-cold car.  :-)

PUBLIC THANKS SECTION:  From the list, great thanks to Teitelbaum, Swingle, 
Sontos, Levy, Hervey, McElraft, and anyone else.  Thanks to Marty Maier and 
Steve Fincher from my local group who spent a couple weekends with me 
testing, replacing, studying, and scratching our heads.  Also a big thanks 
to Warren and James at DMCH, and Steve Wynne who, personally and 
unsolicited, called my office to make some great suggestions to me after 
seeing the post on the DML(I don't even know how he got that number, but how 
about that for service?!!)  Very cool.  I never thought the resolution would 
be so simple, but I always appreciate the support of this group.... and the 
allowance of a really long post!  :-)

Jake Kamphoefner
1063







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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 02:17:04 EDT
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DOA (long response)

While I'm not a member of the DOA, I do commend them for the work they have 
done over the years.  They were the first group dedicated to the DeLorean, 
(back in 82 or 83) when the legacy of the DeLorean was not yet established.  The 
founders and members of the DOA deserve our respect for taking the necessary 
steps toward founding an orginazation that supports the DeLorean automobile.  
Back when the DOA was formed  the DeLorean corporation had just, or was going 
under, and the future of parts, and techinical support was grim to say the 
least.  
       The DML on the other hand has made use of the internet and provided a 
way for current DeLorean owners and fans to communicate via e-mail and the 
internet, using the internet to answer tech questions and help owners fix and 
maintain their DeLorean's with e-mails on an daily basis, and then as the years 
progressed within every few hours.  I myself have been a member of the DML 
before I even purchased my DeLorean,  and have gotten a great amount of good 
advice, and information from the e-mails, as I'm sure that many others have.

       A few of you who know me, might also know that along with DeLoreans, 
I'm am also a  fan of history, and politics, and I would only like to remind 
people of a historical precident, Nixon visited China in 1972, not because we 
always agreed on policy, but because we had more to gain from cooperation, 
rather then confrentation. While not to compare the DOA and the DML to geopolitics, 
we both share an interest in the DMC-12, and we have much more to gain from 
cooperation, rather then argument on the areas where we may differ.  
       Let's face it, as DeLorean owners we only have our vendors and each 
other to rely on.  We should always be greatful for the support of the vendors 
and each other.  We have no factory, the parts stores (not all, but a good 
number) don't have the ability, willingness, nor the time to help us,  and, well, 
the general public (again, not all, but a good number) think that we drive a 
car that was made only for a movie.
       So to make a long story short the DOA and the DML are in similar 
situations, a goal of support for DeLorean owners, and the goal of getting the 
DeLorean automobile the repect that it rightfully deserves.  If I am correct, and 
we have these same goals, I would encourage a reapproachment between the DML 
and DOA, and would extend an open invitation to all the vendors.  I would 
encourage all the vendors to post on the list, your advice and knowledge is always 
respected.  
       Without a community of support,DeLorean owners would find it difficult 
to maintain and for all purposes own their DeLoreans.  From this time foward, 
we should focus on the many issues that unite the DeLorean community, rather 
then the few issues that divide us, we owe it to to the legacy of the DeLorean 
automobile, and to the memory of John Z. DeLorean.

Let us work together to keep the dream alive,

Andrew,
4194


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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