From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2704
Date: Monday, June 27, 2005 7:44 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Door Strut Removal Method
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

2. RE: Re-blackening black
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re-blackening black
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

4. Houston, I have a (compression) problem
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

5. DeLorean VIN list and chronology updated
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

6. Re: DMC Documents.
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Door Strut Removal Method
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. RE: Air Conditioner vacuum controls, tech help please.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. RE: Wont start
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Re: The DOA and DML (long)
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net

11. Re: Door Strut Removal Method
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Air Conditioner vacuum controls, tech help please.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Fuel Injector Seal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: DOA
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net

15. Re: Re-blackening black
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>

16. Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>

17. Jerry Rine
From: "stainless_dreams" <fwise3_at_dml_delorean.com>

18. Re: Re: Temp Gauge Activity
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

19. RE: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. RE: Houston, I have a (compression) problem
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

21. Re: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

22. Fuel pump circuit dead?
From: "thomasttait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

23. sudden loss of power
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

24. RE: Re-blackening black
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. Re: Re-blackening black
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 13:36:01 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Door Strut Removal Method

You did pull out the little locking pins located in each ball didn't you?
Sometimes I give it a whack with a small plastic hammer on the bottom of the
strut.
Dave Sontos 

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve
Subject: [DML] Door Strut Removal Method

Hi.

I just got a new set of door struts but having trouble removing the old door struts. 




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 13:01:43 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re-blackening black

I found some spray at Pep Boys called "Trim Shine", works pretty good and 
lasts pretty long.
It is great for the bumpers.
- VB

>From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
>Subject: [DML] Re-blackening black
>
>The black parts of our cars (bumpers, trim, side mirror housings,
>louvers, etc) tend to lighten up over time and mine is no exception.
>I'd like to make the black items black again, and am wondering what
>your suggestions are?




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 13:56:54 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re-blackening black

 
 
I don't know of anything easy, that will permanently  restore the black but 
at the DMA 2005 Spring Social I was introduced to  Meguiar's Gold Class Trim 
Detailer and it seems to be doing the best job  compared to others I have tried. 
 
 
Dē & 6530




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 18:37:28 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Houston, I have a (compression) problem

So while I was wasting time waiting for the penetrating oil to work 
into the bolts holding down the coolant Y pipe, I thought it might be 
a good time to check the cylinders for compression. My results are 
less than promising.

Cylinder#    Comp 1st run    Comp 2nd run    Insulator Appearance
    1            140             155            Black and sooty

    2            115             125          White like brand new

    3            107             120               Tan

    4             40              40       Tan and wet with wet 
                                       black but not oily electrodes

    5            140             140              Off-white

    6            113             115                Tan

Is there any chance the the # 4 clyinder has stuck rings and can be 
brought back to life?  I remember reading about putting some oil in 
the spark plug hole and that help you figure out if it is the rings 
or valves.  Any ideas??  or should I convert ot an electric motor?






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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 19:15:39 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: DeLorean VIN list and chronology updated

Hi Folks,

I have just had the updated VIN list and chronology uploaded. It is 
buried in the FAQ on the DMCNews web site, and the direct link to it 
is http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_chron.htm

I had intended to get the list posted some time back, but I had my 
hands full with the concours which delayed me a bit on this front. 
Since the list was actually generated a while back, it might not 
include a couple of the most recently submitted entries. Such 
entries will be included in the next published list.

As usual, I had a whole bunch of entries with conflicting 
information, and in most cases I just took an educated guess about 
which data from the various conflicting entries might be correct. I 
am now carefully tracking the sources and dates for the information 
submitted (previsouly I largely just threw everything together 
without carefully tracking it all), so if I have guessed wrong for 
any entries, please submit a correction and I will fix and track 
them properly.

The VIN list now represents around 4400 vehicles which is a pretty 
good sampling. Some years back I used to do some statistics on the 
samples in order to estimate the total production run, but this is 
no longer feasible since the samples in the database are not all 
uncorrelated, which messes up the statistical methods I used to use.

I hope you enjoy the list and some of the build mix and location 
summaries I derived from it.

     Knut








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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 15:37:44 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DMC Documents.

If DMCH were to copy many of these documents, bind them cheaply, and sell 
them at PR, I think they would sell a bundle.   Hell, I'd be willing to pay to 
just look at some of them, let alone get a copy to take home.   I think as much 
of a hassle as it might be, this info should eventually make it into the hands 
of the owners, and those who are passionate about the history of the company. 
  Walking around the 1500 car St. Ignace car show this weekend, I saw the 
progression of what the Porche, Corvette and Mustang started out like and became 
today, and I couldn't help but think of what the DeLorean would have evolved 
into eventually.   The information regarding what "could have been" the 1985 
model DeLorean sounds extremely interesting to me.   If you don't want to scan 
it James due to time constraints, I'd be more than happy to do it.

-Patrick C.
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 19:47:37 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door Strut Removal Method

A rubber mallet works well with a helper holding the door for you.


-Joe O'Brien




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi.
> 
> I just got a new set of door struts but having trouble removing the
> old door struts.




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 14:54:42 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Air Conditioner vacuum controls, tech help please.

Joe, Fan speed 3 & 4 power come directly from the battery / alternator and
go thru the CB the 3 and 4 relay to the blower motor. If the mode switch
doesn't turn on the relays then 3 & 4 relay's won't be turned on. Speed 1,
2, 3, get there power thru the mode switch and go thru the resistor then
blower motor. The mode switch power comes thru #18 fuse.
John Hervey




-----Original Message-----
From: Joe OBrien
Subject: [DML] Air Conditioner vacuum controls, tech help please.
Well,
I've been working on the AC system on 16851 for a few weeks now to
get it ready for summer. Most everything seemed ok on the car, but
there was always one kinda weird scenario in the controls via the
mode switch.





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 15:07:31 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Wont start

Josh,
If the gauge is reading that low then there is a problem in charging, the
battery isn't holding a charge or a bad starter is drawing the current down
when trying to start. Normally when the voltage goes that low and if you
have the blue ignition coil, there won't be enough fire power going to the
plugs to generate a strong spark to start the car.I would recharge the
battery, and while cranking over the engine, check the voltage at the blue /
yellow wire on the left side of the resistor. You should have 10+ volts
there to start. If it's lower the harder it will be to start. This is where
a higher power coil comes in over the stock coil.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcjosh85
Subject: [DML] Wont start


A new problem came up today when I tried taking my DeLorean out for
a saturday morning drive. But as many times as I
tried the engine wouldnt startup.





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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 21:47:58 +0000
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Re: The DOA and DML (long)

The main thing I question about the DOA is similar to the point that James mentions below.  What is the DOA offering now that is different than before?  If anything they offer less for a higher membership fee.  They have not even had an annual expo that I know if in a few years.  I was a DOA member for some time.  However with the growth of the the local clubs and the many events they hold, as well as the incredible show Ken puts on, as well as others, I fail to see what the DOA has to offer anyone who resides outside southern California.  Exactly what should someone expect for the 72.00 a year membership dues?  Just to say, "I am a DOA member?"  There are other places to get a quarterly Delorean magazine for far less than 72.00 a year which is the main thing I am aware of the DOA offers for a membership.  In fact I think Ken's DCS Magazine as well as Gullwing are much better than DW Magazine.  It seems in almost every part of the country there is some local or regional Delorean club that has an active membership.  I know our club Delorean Mid Atlantic has quarterly events as well as other benefits for a membership cost of 15 dollars a year, just as the other regional clubs provide their members with many of the same things.  I just don't see any thing, let alone a list of things, that would justify someone to spend 72.00 a year to be a member.  Especially if you are outside of southern CA.  I understand the current offer to join and get all the back issues is a reasonable deal.  But that aside what would justify the 72.00 dollars a year dues?  Am I missing something?

Gary Gore


<<From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

<snip> 
Is there still a need for an organization like the DOA? Now that we have
several robust local owner groups around the world, the DCS and DMC
(Texas) shows, three good magazines to choose from, the DeLorean Owners
Directory (another idea of mine that the DOA refused to implement, so I
created one through the DML) and the mailing list and new DMCHelp.com
forums, no, I don't think a need for the DOA exists any longer. What
will they offer that is markedly different or better than any of those
things just mentioned? And at a price that is competitive or better than
what is already available?>>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 21:48:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door Strut Removal Method

As John says, first be sure you have removed the spring clip. I have
personally seen struts that just do not want to come off. Hitting it
with a short piece of 2X4 might do it. Be sure you have propped the
door open. On 1 car once we had to destroy the end of the strut to get
it off. Be careful prying, you do not want to bend anything.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Dave, If the clips have been removed, I take the heel of my hand and
bump the strut rod as close to the joint as I can and they pop right out.
> John Hervey
> 
> 
>






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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 21:56:13 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Air Conditioner vacuum controls, tech help please.

Make sure the fan is running. If you have the origional breaker maybe
it is popping. Upgrade it. Make sure the fan is rotating in the
correct direction. Make sure all of the actuator hoses are on tight
and going to the right places. Maybe the mode switch is bad and you
need to rebuild it. Finally if the pressures are not right and it
isn't cycling correctly you could be freezing up the evaporator coil,
that would stop the airflow. It also could just be full of dirt. As in
a previous post after cleaning his evaporator coil all of a sudden his
A/C started working just fine! See if you are getting voltage to the
fan motor and then go from there.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Well,
> 
> I've been working on the AC system on 16851 for a few weeks now to 
> 







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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 21:59:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injector Seal

The fuel injector seals ARE a major source of vacuum leaks. If they
are old and shrunk replace them. If they are new and just loose wrap
some teflon tape around them before sticking them back in the sleeve.
You can also use just a LITTLE silicone sealer.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Dave, If they are not dried out and have not shrank, they will fit
snug but
> not tight. The clips keep the facing seat tight.
> John Hervey
> 
> 
> 
> 
>







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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 22:09:25 +0000
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Re: DOA

Sounds like everything you are looking for can be found right here

http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/

Many of our Spring and Fall events have had between 30 to 40 Deloreans in attendance.

Gary Gore
Vice President
Delorean Mid Atlantic


<<  I would reallly like to see 
something on the east coast, mid atlantic.  Maybe in conjuction with another 
show.

Bernie>>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 23:01:24 -0000
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Re-blackening black

As I just purchased a D with some fading on the bumpers and mirrors, I was planning on 
trying a blackening "Turtle" car wax on the bumpers and mirrors once I got the car home. 
After looking at the results from this product, I may just scrap that idea and try this. Looks 
like it does a great job.

-Derek  #16182



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> Yes, the Griot's stuff is good.
> 
> It's a real dye.  It's not greasy.  It lasts indefinitely.
> 
> Highly recommended.
> 
> -andrew







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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 23:29:25 -0000
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?

I am looking to add an alarm to my car as well as fix the door lock problem. The car has the 
original solenoids and they work great, so I would prefer not to replace them. I was looking 
at getting the lockzilla to prevent them from burning out, but would also like to get an alarm 
and remote door unlock unit. Does anybody have such a setup and could you explain how 
you did it? I was figuring a lockzilla plus the wings-a-loft remote unlock+alarm unit. Do 
these two units work together without any problems, or does installing the lockzilla reroute 
some wires that the alarm system needs to splice into? I am assuming the wings-a-loft unit 
is not plug + play like the lockzilla. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated, 
thanks.

-Derek #16182







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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 00:02:56 -0000
From: "stainless_dreams" <fwise3_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Jerry Rine

 I have a good friend who used to take her DeLorean up to Jerry Rine
every now and then, but she lost contact with him when KAPAC sold its
parts to Delorean Motor Company. She is looking to have some work done
on her Delorean and would love to take it back to Jerry. Does anyone
know if he still does work on the cars, and if so, could you point me
in the right direction to contact him? Thank you very much!!

Freddie Wise
(Future owner of VIN 16569)






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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 20:42:25 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Temp Gauge Activity

 
In a message dated 6/26/2005 11:55:48 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com writes:

Of all  the gauges, I have only seen the temp gauge and Tach go bad. 
The symptom  and resolution you experience suggests that the temp 
gauge is coming apart  inside. I would suggest replacing the temp 
gauge when you put on the new  binnacle.

Harold McElraft - 3354


Do be aware that the temp gauge is built into the entire left quarter of  the 
cluster which includes the seatbelt, door ajar, volt gauge and temp  gauge.  
The whole thing is replaced as one unit.  When I replaced mine  a few years 
ago, I kept the old one as a cool little coffeetable  centerpiece!  If your dash 
is sun-faded, you might be better off replacing  with a used on since a new 
one will have brighter red color in the silk  screening - if you care about 
that kind of thing!
 
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 20:31:28 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?

Derek, If you will send me the lock module, I will update it for $35.00 and
if you will clean all the linkage in the door you should be fine. Everyone
changes the relay's in the relay compartment, but they never change the
relay's in the lock box.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Derek
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 5:29 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?


I am looking to add an alarm to my car as well as fix the door lock problem.
The car has the
original solenoids and they work great, so I would prefer not to replace
them. 




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 20:39:25 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Houston, I have a (compression) problem

You could have a broke ring, cracked piston or the aluminum between the
rings could be broke and or pushed out. The later is what happened to an
engine were overhauling.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of drdhdmd
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 12:37 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Houston, I have a (compression) problem


So while I was wasting time waiting for the penetrating oil to work
into the bolts holding down the coolant Y pipe, I thought it might be
a good time to check the cylinders for compression. My results are
less than promising.

Cylinder#    Comp 1st run    Comp 2nd run    Insulator Appearance
    1            140             155            Black and sooty

    2            115             125          White like brand new

    3            107             120               Tan

    4             40              40       Tan and wet with wet
                                       black but not oily electrodes

    5            140             140              Off-white

    6            113             115                Tan

Is there any chance the the # 4 clyinder has stuck rings and can be
brought back to life?  I remember reading about putting some oil in
the spark plug hole and that help you figure out if it is the rings
or valves.  Any ideas??  or should I convert ot an electric motor





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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 02:15:26 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?

Derek - The various Wings-A-Loft units work fine with LockZilla.  
The LockZilla mimics the function of the DeLorean door lock module, 
but uses heavier-duty components.  You can actually rework your 
existing lock module to incorporate heavier-duty 40 amp relays 
yourself (which gets you most of the way there), or replace the 
entire unit with LockZilla.  We have the parts you would need for 
that.  Send me a message off-list and I would be happy to give you a 
complete rundown of all of the options that are available in the 
Wings-A-Loft line, and advise you on what you should get based on 
what you want as a final result.  In regards to your last question, 
you will never find an alarm system with any capabilities that is 
truly "plug and play".  You will find our instructions to be very 
complete and easy to follow in order to integrate our systems into 
the DeLorean electrical system.

As an aside to this, perhaps some of the more experienced electrical 
wizards on this List would like to share their thoughts regarding 
the massive voltage and in-rush current spikes that are created by 
the door lock solenoids, and their possible effects on other parts 
of the electrical system?

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> I am looking to add an alarm to my car as well as fix the door 
lock problem. The car has the original solenoids and they work 
great, so I would prefer not to replace them. I was looking 
> at getting the lockzilla to prevent them from burning out, but 
would also like to get an alarm and remote door unlock unit. Does 
anybody have such a setup and could you explain how I was figuring a 
lockzilla plus the wings-a-loft remote unlock+alarm unit. Do 
> these two units work together without any problems, or does 
installing the lockzilla reroute some wires that the alarm system 
needs to splice into? I am assuming the wings-a-loft unit 
> is not plug + play like the lockzilla. Any comments or suggestions 
would be appreciated, thanks.
> 
> -Derek #16182






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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 02:05:59 -0000
From: "thomasttait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Fuel pump circuit dead?

I've just pulled and replaced my fuel metering unit to replace cap 
rotor and wires.  Not what its all back together I found:

No fuel pressure at the distributor

No sound from the fuel pump on turning on the key

No power at the hot side of the fuse panel for the Fuel pump fuse - 
likely the cause of the first two - I'm thinking. 

Is there something I may have left disconnected in the engine 
compartment that would cause this?  Can the intertia switch do this?  
I assume the plunger should be up on the intertia switch for proper 
operation...

Tom






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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 02:46:51 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: sudden loss of power

Hey guys, sometimes when I'm driving I'll hit a small bump and notice 
my car jerk with a sudden loss of power as if the key was turned off-
then it immediatly restore back to being fine. This is kinda scary to 
happen especially when I'm really far from home because I'm affraid 
the engine will stop all together. Other times I'll go over a really 
rough part of road and have no problems at all. Has this happened to 
anyone else, any ideas on causes, fixes? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. 
#5003







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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 20:35:15 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re-blackening black

Derek and Group, This is an old show car trick. Don't laugh, But if you will
clean the black down real good, let dry and spray with your favorite brand
of hair spray, you won't believe the results. You can wipe off the over
spray with a wet cloth and yes you would have to respray after it rains. Try
it. You'll like the results.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Derek
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 5:01 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re-blackening black


As I just purchased a D with some fading on the bumpers and mirrors, I was
planning on
trying a blackening "Turtle" car wax on the bumpers and mirrors once I got







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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 03:00:42 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re-blackening black

Hey Andrew,

I am getting ready to do the same to all my exterior parts and was 
wondering if you had a link you could send me of where you purchased 
the stuff needed to redo all the pieces.  

Thanks,

Brandon
Vin 3323

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> As I just purchased a D with some fading on the bumpers and 
mirrors, I was planning on 
> trying a blackening "Turtle" car wax on the bumpers and mirrors 
once I got the car home. 
> After looking at the results from this product, I may just scrap 
that idea and try this. Looks 
> like it does a great job.
> 
> -Derek  #16182
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> > Yes, the Griot's stuff is good.
> > 
> > It's a real dye.  It's not greasy.  It lasts indefinitely.
> > 
> > Highly recommended.
> > 
> > -andrew







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