From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2705
Date: Monday, June 27, 2005 1:26 PM

There are 26 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Oops!!!!
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: Re-blackening black
From: "Brent W. Lundgren" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>

3. Re: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

4. Re: Re-blackening black
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

5. DCS Chicago preparations
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

6. Replacement for faded/worn switches?
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>

7. RE: Clutch Fluid - Dot 4
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>

8. Re: Oops!!!!
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

9. Re: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. Re: Re-blackening black
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

11. RE: Houston, I have a (compression) problem
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. TOO MUCH POWER?
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

13. RE: Oops!!!!
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. Re: Fuel Injector Seal
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. RE: Fuel pump circuit dead?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. Re: NEED Windsheild
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

17. Re: Oops!!!!
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>

18. Re: Re-blackening black
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>

19. Re: TOO MUCH POWER?
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: TOO MUCH POWER?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

21. Re: sudden loss of power
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. RE: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

23. tire wear / front end vibration
From: Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_discordia.org>

24. Re: Re-blackening black
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Re: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

26. Re: Oops!!!!
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 03:33:35 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Oops!!!!

It just unscrews in the normal direction. Two tricks:

Remove the muffler and use an air-powered impact wrench. This usually works. 

Heat the nut with a torch first. It probably has red loc-tite on it.
 
Another trick - A long extension bar - I use the 5-foot one that I have for door  adjustments. 

I put a screwdriver thru the flywheel to lock it in place (my engine 
was out of the car). You may need to remove the starter to do 
something like this, or find a way to block the clutch from rotating 
from underneath (there are two side holes in the bellhousing).  Is 
yours an automatic or manual?

Dave


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 10:28 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Oops!!!!


I was wondering if anyone would tell me the easiest way to get the 
nut off 
of the crackshaft pully.  It just spins around and around when I try 
to 
loosen it.  Also, do I turn it counterclockwise to loosen it?  Thanks 
yall.

Lingo  #2034








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 22:45:28 -0400
From: "Brent W. Lundgren" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>
Subject: Re: Re-blackening black

This has my vote too.  I restored my coil cover with the Meguiar's.  It may
seem tacky at first, but it will dry.  I used it on a DML members louvers
and he went out and bought some.
Brent
VIN #17006

----- Original Message -----
From: <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 1:56 PM
Subject: [DML] Re-blackening black

I don't know of anything easy, that will permanently  restore the black but
at the DMA 2005 Spring Social I was introduced to  Meguiar's Gold Class Trim
Detailer and it seems to be doing the best job  compared to others I have
tried.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 02:55:41 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?

I've had an LCD pager alarm installed in my car for years now with a 
remote system (so much as a pine needle falls on the car the pager 
will sound). I too still use the original solenoids with a remote 
un/lock system and have never had a problem; solenoids look great 
inside.  All it is-is the alarm module wired up to the wires that 
activate the solenoids, (I'll get the wire colors to hook up to for 
you tomorrow if you want them-they're back in the relay compartment). 
Hit the button and the module sends a positive charge to one wire and 
a negative to the other-almost like hitting the unlock button in the 
car, hit it again and the opposite currents go in the wires locking 
it back up. If you need additional info or install advice let me 
know. -----Dani B. #5003



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> I am looking to add an alarm to my car as well as fix the door lock 
problem. The car has the 
> original solenoids and they work great, so I would prefer not to 
replace them. I was looking 
> at getting the lockzilla to prevent them from burning out, but 
would also like to get an alarm 
> and remote door unlock unit. Does anybody have such a setup and 
could you explain how 
> you did it? I was figuring a lockzilla plus the wings-a-loft remote 
unlock+alarm unit. Do 
> these two units work together without any problems, or does 
installing the lockzilla reroute 
> some wires that the alarm system needs to splice into? I am 
assuming the wings-a-loft unit 
> is not plug + play like the lockzilla. Any comments or suggestions 
would be appreciated, 
> thanks.
> 
> -Derek #16182







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 00:40:12 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re-blackening black

Ryan,

When I get that "not so fresh" feeling about my black plastic, I use some 
spray on stainless polish.  What's funny: I never use the stainless polish 
on the steel, only on the plastic.  Sounds crazy but it works great.  It 
lasts reasonably long provided you let it dry.

With that said, however, I think I might be checkin' out Andrew's Griot's 
stuff.

Jake Kamphoefner
1063


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew" <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re-blackening black


> On Sat, 25 Jun 2005, Ryan Wright wrote:
>
>> I'm tempted to try Griot's bumper & trim reconditioner next, but don't
>> know if it would be any better.
> 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 23:56:26 -0400
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: DCS Chicago preparations

Ken,
You're putting more work and meticulous testing and thorough preparation 
into the DeLorean Car Show 2006 than I did on my own wedding.(!)

Anyone who has been to the previous DCS's knows that you do everything 
you can to provide a great show.
Of course, it's up to the DeLorean community to show up and MAKE it a 
great show for themselves.
-If you don't have a good time at one of Ken's shows, well, it's your 
own fault.

Your recent activities should give folks an understanding of what kind 
of a host you are, and how great an event this will be.

Thanks (in advance) for all the advance efforts!
-We'll be there with bells on.
Oliver (and Terry) Holler
#10694

>    From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
> Subject: DCS Chicago (Update this is cool)
> 
> Well, Dave and Julee Swingle and my wife Chris and I all attended the 
Corvette show this weekend in Chicago.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 03:49:16 -0000
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Replacement for faded/worn switches?

I saw some posts a few years back that mentioned PJ Gradys possibly selling replacement 
switch covers for those with faded switches. I could not find any on their site, does anyone 
know if there is some sort of replacement for worn switches? The buttons work fine, I just 
need the plastic caps, or some sort of sticker to put on it with arrows. Any suggestions would 
help. Thanks.

-Derek #16182







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2005 10:14:47 -0700
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Clutch Fluid - Dot 4

It's possible it was a bad rebuild, but I have Castrol available so that is
what I use now.

DarkStar

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Ryan Wright
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 3:29 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Clutch Fluid - Dot 4


Well, it's been in my brakes & clutch since I bought the car last year
and flushed/refilled everything. No problems yet. I'd be really
surprised if the fluid was the actual cause of your master cylinder
failure.

-Ryan

On 6/22/05, Darkstar <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:
> I had an issue w/ Valvoline Synth DOT 3+4 - ruined a MC in about 3 months.
> DMCGG put in a replacement and flushed both the brake and clutch system
and
> I haven't had trouble since.
>










________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 22:28:51 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Oops!!!!

I was wondering if anyone would tell me the easiest way to get the nut off 
of the crackshaft pully.  It just spins around and around when I try to 
loosen it.  Also, do I turn it counterclockwise to loosen it?  Thanks yall.

Lingo  #2034




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 07:22:47 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?

I still use the original lock module. There are two relays that get sticky, 
and they can be replaced with a little soldering.
The alarm is very easy to install since it is a central locking system. I 
used an advanced little Crimestoppers unit. I tried to make my own door 
openers and have had limited success with them. Sometimes the driver's door 
doesn't go up because the front latch will catch back before it clears. The 
passenger door stopped totally after my mother-in-law got it jammed once. 
Now the actuator can't pull the linkage. I need to fix that...
I would just all DPNW Wings products if I were to do it again.
I keep thinking about and putting off the lock actuators-- I should do those 
when I fix my linkage issues so that the openers work good.

I keep telling myself on some of these upgrades: "Exhaust first! Exhaust 
first!" 
;-)

-Kevin


On 6/26/05, Derek <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net> wrote:
> 
> I am looking to add an alarm to my car as well as fix the door lock 
> problem. The car has the
> original solenoids and they work great, so I would prefer not to replace 
> them. I was looking





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 08:02:32 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Re-blackening black

Ryan,

This is going to sound very odd but I just had this problem so I did a 
search for it in the archives and found a message (probably 10 years old) 
that said to use petroleum jelly (Vaseline).  I was a little skeptical that 
it could be so easy as a $2 bottle of Vaseline so I tried a tiny spot on the 
underside of my louvers and it worked well.  So far I have done my louvers, 
lower engine cover, pontoons, and side air vents.  They all look brand new 
and are not greasy like you might imagine.  I can assure you this is the 
easiest and cheapest alternative and it works wonders.  Unfortunately I 
don't have any long-term results.  If you do decide to do this be sure to 
wash the areas real well, or you'll just be trapping dirt and dust under the 
coat.  Although that is probably true of anything.

Good luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 5:26 PM
Subject: [DML] Re-blackening black


> The black parts of our cars (bumpers, trim, side mirror housings,
> louvers, etc) tend to lighten up over time and mine is no exception.
> I'd like to make the black items black again, and am wondering what
> your suggestions are?
>
> Obviously tearing everything off and having it all repainted is the
> most logical option, but I'm looking for something easier. Are there
> any decent products that can re-dye the parts with good medium to long
> term results? "Back to Black" lasts a few weeks at most and leaves a
> nasty greasy coating behind. I'm tempted to try Griot's bumper & trim




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 07:37:22 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Houston, I have a (compression) problem

Run the test again, but this time put a couple of teaspoons of motor oil 
into cylinder 4. If the compression comes way up, you have a ring problem in 
that cylinder. If it doesn't suspect valve related problems. To find out for 
sure what is going on, a leak-down test will pinpoint the issue for you.

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Houston, I have a (compression) problem
>Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 18:37:28 -0000
>
>So while I was wasting time waiting for the penetrating oil to work
>into the bolts holding down the coolant Y pipe, I thought it might be
>a good time to check the cylinders for compression. My results are
>less than promising.
>
>Cylinder#    Comp 1st run    Comp 2nd run    Insulator Appearance
>     1            140             155            Black and sooty
>
>     2            115             125          White like brand new
>
>     3            107             120               Tan
>
>     4             40              40       Tan and wet with wet
>                                        black but not oily electrodes
>
>     5            140             140              Off-white
>
>     6            113             115                Tan




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 08:31:36 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: TOO MUCH POWER?

List:

I never thought I would be saying this about the Delorean, but I think I have too much power!  What I mean is that my voltages seem unordinary high (I Think).  Even running under a good load, blowers on high, radio, high-beams, the voltage still reads around 15 Volts (just under the orange mark on the gauge).  The only thing that will knock it down a little is when the cooling fans kick on, even then it's around 14V.  I have recently installed John Herveys 110 Amp alternator and a new battery.  It doesn't seem like I'm overcharging the battery since it never goes any higher than 15V, but it does get awful close to that orange mark.  The battery light is working so I don't think I am overworking the alternator.  I haven't tested the voltage with my DMM so it could be that the gauge is off, but I doubt it.  Should I be concerned with this, or have I just promoted how great Hervey's alternators are?

Any Thoughts?
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 07:54:28 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Oops!!!!

Robert,
It's difficult with a large wrench. An impact will normally do it but trying
to get it in there is another problem. If all the belts are on, spray a
small amount of brake fluid on them to help keep them from slipping and push
down, then try the wrench again.
John



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Robert Lingo
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 9:29 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Oops!!!!


I was wondering if anyone would tell me the easiest way to get the nut off
of the crackshaft pully.  It just spins around and around when I try to
loosen it.  Also, do I turn it counterclockwise to loosen it?  Thanks yall.






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 07:33:12 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injector Seal

Be careful with these if your car is boosted. (Turbo) Loose injector seals 
can be pushed out by positive manifold pressure. Best to replace them with 
tight seals on a boosted car. (The teflon tape will work on a normally 
aspirated car, however.

Also, I would personally avoid using ANY silicone sealer on these as they 
are "upstream" from the lambda probe which will be poisoned in short order 
by even trace amounts of silicone.

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Fuel Injector Seal
>Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 21:59:18 -0000
>
>The fuel injector seals ARE a major source of vacuum leaks. If they
>are old and shrunk replace them. If they are new and just loose wrap
>some teflon tape around them before sticking them back in the sleeve.
>You can also use just a LITTLE silicone sealer.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>

>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 07:58:37 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel pump circuit dead?

Plunger goes down. If you see Red, your dead.
John


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of thomasttait
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 8:06 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fuel pump circuit dead?


I've just pulled and replaced my fuel metering unit to replace cap
rotor and wires.  Not what its all back together I found:

No fuel pressure at the distributor

No sound from the fuel pump on turning on the key

No power at the hot side of the fuse panel for the Fuel pump fuse -
likely the cause of the first two - I'm thinking.

Is there something I may have left disconnected in the engine
compartment that would cause this?  Can the intertia switch do this?
I assume the plunger should be up on the intertia switch for proper
operation...











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 07:57:35 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: NEED Windsheild

Always eager to please:
110076 Windshield $406.06
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=2262&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
111976 Mirror Pad $7.32
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=2500&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
Shipping $125-150
Around $575 delivered to Michigan.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537
281/441-2813 Fax


Lawrence Lormand wrote:
> Hello,
> I'm looking for an original windsheild for my 00915a frame off restoration project 
> currently & would perfer one locally if possible as shipping from distances are less 
> likely to arrive  broken.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 13:07:54 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Oops!!!!

Impact wrench and counterclockwise

seanM

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I was wondering if anyone would tell me the easiest way to get the 
nut off 
> of the crackshaft pully.  It just spins around and around when I try 
to 
> loosen it.  Also, do I turn it counterclockwise to loosen it?  
Thanks yall.
> 
> Lingo  #2034







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 08:12:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
Subject: Re: Re-blackening black

On Mon, 27 Jun 2005, brandelorean wrote:

> I am getting ready to do the same to all my exterior parts and was
> wondering if you had a link you could send me of where you purchased
> the stuff needed to redo all the pieces.

Griot's Bumper & Trim Reconditioner comes from Griot's Garage, and may be 
found specifically at http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?SKUupsell=11183

One bottle goes a really long way.  I used about 1.5 of them, but I did my 
bumpers, my trim, my mirrors, my front spoiler, my engine bay, my 
pontoons...  Once things start looking all nice and new again, you just 
can't stop.

-andrew




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 10:17:35 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: TOO MUCH POWER?

My D140 is like that as well.   If I have the A/C on, the needle hovers 
around the 13 mark, sometimes right at it, sometimes below it.   If I tap the gas a 
little bit, the needle jumps to right below the orange mark.   Its very close 
to being exactly on the orange line, but its really a hair below it.   I 
assume this is normal for all of the new high powered alternators for the D.

-Patrick C.
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 14:28:20 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: TOO MUCH POWER?

Don't put too much stock in the DMC gauge - consider it a relative 
indicator. Get a REAL voltmeter (the cheap digital ones are actually 
pretty accurate), put it on the battery with and without the car 
running, accessories on, etc, to find out what is truly going on. If 
you are truly overcharging the battery it will boil off the 
electrolyte, ruining the battery and probably your carpeting.

Once you know the relationship between the DMC meter and reality you can keep an eye on it.  

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> List:
> 
> I never thought I would be saying this about the Delorean, but I 
think I have too much power!  What I mean is that my voltages seem 
unordinary high (I Think).  Even running under a good load, blowers on 
high, radio, high-beams, the voltage still reads around 15 Volts (just 
under the orange mark on the gauge).  The only thing that will knock it 
down a little is when the cooling fans kick on, even then it's around 
14V.  I have recently installed John Herveys 110 Amp alternator and a 
new battery.  






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 15:51:14 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: sudden loss of power

At first, I thought this symptom on my car was a kink in the inlet 
line to the fuel pump (I'd just replaced my pump and thought I'd 
messed it up) but now I believe it was a sign of the fuel pump 
overheating as a result of hot air from the radiator blowing back over 
the fuel tank.  I saw it most when the tank was 1/2 full or less, but 
on really warm days, it would happen even with a full tank. You may 
also notice a groaning noise from your pump.  If you have my luck, 
your pump will seize up completely (1st pump) or just stop dead and 
insist that you wait for it to cool off enough to limp home (2nd pump).

I installed the hot air dam from SpecialTAuto and have had no problems 
in the last 1000 miles, even with temps here in Vegas over 100 now.

Marv
#10820

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Hey guys, sometimes when I'm driving I'll hit a small bump and 
notice 
> my car jerk with a sudden loss of power as if the key was turned off-
> then it immediatly restore back to being fine. This is kinda scary 
to 
> happen especially when I'm really far from home because I'm affraid 
> the engine will stop all together. Other times I'll go over a really 
> rough part of road and have no problems at all. Has this happened to 
> anyone else, any ideas on causes, fixes? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. 
> #5003






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 11:10:44 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?

Kevin, As I have said in the past. With a little bit of maintenance I had no
problems with 11004 my first car for 4 years. I put new relay's in the
module, replaced a couple of diodes and changed the CB. $35.00 .Lubricated
the locking mechanism and had no problems.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of kjc
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 6:23 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?


I still use the original lock module. There are two relays that get sticky,
and they can be replaced with a little soldering.
The alarm is very easy to install since it is a central locking system. I
used an advanced little Crimestoppers unit. I




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 12:01:36 -0400
From: Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_discordia.org>
Subject: tire wear / front end vibration

Ever since I've owed my car (been 12 years or so, 100K miles), I've  
never been able to get more than 25k miles out of a set of tires.  
When I first put new tires on everything is fine, but after about 10k  
miles or so the front tires wear funny so that I start to get a  
slight vibration in the front end. By 25k miles the vibration is bad  
enough that I need to replace the tires. The tires still look fine.  
Plenty of tread left. But they're just out of round enough to cause  
the vibration.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

Over the years I have the alignment done several times, and had the  
following parts replaced (because they clearly needed to be, not  
because I was just blindly swapping things to try to get rid of the  
vibration):

steering rack
lower ball joints
lower control arm bushings
rotors (and brake pads of course)
tie rod ends
steering column
upper and lower steering u-joints
shocks
springs (had the car lowered)


The only thing suspicious I can find on the car now is a loose  
steering column bushing. Could this be causing the funny tire wear,  
or is it more likely the vibration from the tires is what made the  
bushing loose?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I use the car as a daily  
driver (at least when the weather is nice), and going through tires  
this quickly is not good. I've got 20k miles on the current set and  
they need to be replaced.

Thanks.

- Jason





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 12:08:30 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re-blackening black

In the past I was against painting the louvers because I wanted to retain 
the texture.
I used a lot of the liquid black restore products but I found that all of 
them are very
temporary and only last a few days or weeks, or a few washes.
They also turn the surface into flypaper.
So if you live in a dusty area or with a lot of pollen then you have to wash
them a lot.
Conclusion - I hate to admit it but repainting is the best.
- Videobob

>From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [DML] Re-blackening black
>Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 00:40:12 -0500
>
>Ryan,
>
>When I get that "not so fresh" feeling about my black plastic, I use some
>spray on stainless polish.  What's funny: I never use the stainless polish
>on the steel, only on the plastic.  Sounds crazy but it works great.  It
>lasts reasonably long provided you let it dry.
>
>With that said, however, I think I might be checkin' out Andrew's Griot's
>stuff.
>
>Jake Kamphoefner
>1063






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 10:05:48 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?

I highly recommend rebuilding your lock module (or paying someone else
to do it for you) instead. You'll save a ton of money and end up with
basically the same result.

If you do go with a Lockzilla, it's exactly the same as the original
lock module in terms of interfacing with an alarm system. Same harness
and everything. Bob Zilla, however, told me I "can't" interface any
alarm system to the Lockzilla except for his own, which is "coming out
any day now." (that was a year ago, it's still not released). Needless
to say, when I found out the truth I was a bit perturbed at the little
white lie & the unnecessary product bundling, so I made the decision
to never buy any Zilla products, ever.

Instead I rebuilt my own lock module for $20 worth of parts, and added
Toby's actuators for another $100. My entire locking system now works
perfectly and is rock solid for half the price of a Lockzilla.

-Ryan

On 6/26/05, Derek <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net> wrote:
> I am looking to add an alarm to my car as well as fix the door lock problem. The car has the
> original solenoids and they work great, so I would prefer not to replace them. I was looking
> at getting the lockzilla to prevent them from burning out, but would also like to get an alarm
> and remote door unlock unit. Does anybody have such a setup and could you explain how
> you did it? I was figuring a lockzilla plus the wings-a-loft remote unlock+alarm unit. Do
> these two units work together without any problems, or does installing the lockzilla reroute




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 26
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 12:09:49 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Oops!!!!

Thanks alot,  I finally got it off.  I screwed the pully up really bad 
though with the 'puller'.  Hopefully I can buy one online.

Lingo #2034


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Oops!!!!


> It just unscrews in the normal direction. Two tricks:
>
> Remove the muffler and use an air-powered impact wrench. This usually 
> works.
>
> Heat the nut with a torch first. It probably has red loc-tite on it.
>
> Another trick - A long extension bar - I use the 5-foot one that I have 
> for door  adjustments.
>
> I put a screwdriver thru the flywheel to lock it in place (my engine
> was out of the car). You may need to remove the starter to do
> something like this, or find a way to block the clutch from rotating
> from underneath (there are two side holes in the bellhousing).  Is
> yours an automatic or manual?
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 10:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Oops!!!!
>
>
> I was wondering if anyone would tell me the easiest way to get the
> nut off
> of the crackshaft pully.  It just spins around and around when I try

> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------