From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2706
Date: Monday, June 27, 2005 5:34 PM

There are 15 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re-blackening black
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

2. Re: Door Strut Removal Method
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Wacky Tach
From: "ironranger7012" <kvlauhala_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: tire wear / front end vibration
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

5. Re: tire wear / front end vibration
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

6. Re: Re: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. Re: TOO MUCH POWER?
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

8. eBay bidder's beware
From: "Fedeli, Joe \(DSCP\)" <Joe.Fedeli_at_dml_dla.mil>

9. Re: Re-blackening black
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

10. Re: TOO MUCH POWER?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Lookiong for a coolant bottle neck.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Re: disseminating information.
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

13. Painting Front Fascia
From: "LJScarlet2" <ljscarlet2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Re: Door Strut Removal Method
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

15. Re: Lookiong for a coolant bottle neck.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 09:52:31 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re-blackening black

Thanks all for the responses. I'm going to try the Griots then, we'll
see how long it lasts. I don't really mind doing this once or twice a
year, I just don't want it fading again after a few weeks. :)

If it doesn't last as expected, I'll post here and let everyone know.
I drive my car daily in the hot desert sun so I'm a good test case for
stressing products such as these...

-Ryan




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 17:12:17 -0000
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door Strut Removal Method

The spring clips were removed.  I did whack the struts many times with 
a rubber mallet.  

I guess my options are:
1.  Heat with a torch, let the metal expand, and then remove.
2.  Get the dremel tool out and start cutting.
3.  Use the pry bar.


Steve
VIN#04421  



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> As John says, first be sure you have removed the spring clip. I have
> personally seen struts that just do not want to come off. Hitting it
> with a short piece of 2X4 might do it. Be sure you have propped the
> door open. On 1 car once we had to destroy the end of the strut to get
> it off. Be careful prying, you do not want to bend anything.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> > Dave, If the clips have been removed, I take the heel of my hand and
> bump the strut rod as close to the joint as I can and they pop right 
out.
> > John Hervey
> > 
> > 
> >






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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 18:05:22 -0000
From: "ironranger7012" <kvlauhala_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Wacky Tach

I have this wacky tach that reads ~5k at 70 mph. It reads OK at idle 
but from there it just goes nuts. This is the second tach since the 
first ones' needle went all around. I checked the grounds that I could 
find and all are clean. Any thoughts?    Thanks  ironranger7012








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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 18:29:26 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: tire wear / front end vibration

Looks like you have not changed the rubber donut bushings at the end 
of the sway bars. These have a huge impact on suspension geometry. 
check the bushings that hold the bar under the radiator too. This 
sway bar is not just a sway bar, it locates the lower control arms!

The steering bushing is a normal failure (oem) item. It will not mess 
up your tires, it just drives you nuts. 

Dvae

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Ever since I've owed my car (been 12 years or so, 100K miles), 
I've  
> never been able to get more than 25k miles out of a set of tires.  
> When I first put new tires on everything is fine, but after about 
10k  
> miles or so the front tires wear funny so that I start to get a  
> slight vibration in the front end. By 25k miles the vibration is 
bad  
> enough that I need to replace the tires. The tires still look 
fine.  
> Plenty of tread left. But they're just out of round enough to 
cause  
> the vibration.
> 
> Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
> 
> Over the years I have the alignment done several times, and had 
the  
> following parts replaced (because they clearly needed to be, not  
> because I was just blindly swapping things to try to get rid of 
the  
> vibration):
> 
> steering rack
> lower ball joints
> lower control arm bushings
> rotors (and brake pads of course)
> tie rod ends
> steering column
> upper and lower steering u-joints
> shocks
> springs (had the car lowered)







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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 18:40:22 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: tire wear / front end vibration

Jason - One area that you didn't mention getting new parts or at least 
a thorough inspection of is the front sway bar bushings common to the 
frame and also common to the lower control arms.  These bushings have a 
large effect on the caster, braking stability, and basic toe-in 
alignment.  The bushings on the rear side of the lower control arms 
take the most abuse, and will deteriorate the fastest.  Have any of the 
alignment shops mentioned a caster error in your car?  Have all the 
other bushings been inspected to make sure that all is well?  If you 
need to, shoot me a message off-List and I can cover some of these 
items in detail with you.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Ever since I've owed my car (been 12 years or so, 100K miles), I've 
never been able to get more than 25k miles out of a set of tires.  








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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 19:45:45 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Electrical door lock fix + alarm? Suggestions?

The lock module is quite clever in that respect. As it uses relays to 
power the solenoids, as soon a the relay breaks contact the voltage goes 
crazy only in the solenoid itself. The power supply to the solenoids is 
kept seperate from the power supply to the module, and the former comes 
directly off the main 12v cluster behind the back board. They draw less 
than the colling fans on startup, also inductive devices

The problems with the lock module are threefold

1) The relays are open to the air and are underrated
2) the original system uses capacitors dumped across the relays to power 
the solenoids - this is how it only works for half a second or so. The 
snag is that a relay powered from a decaying voltage will break contact 
poorly and cause arcing and can weld themselves shut (see 1)
3) There are no protection diodes on the transistors that switch the 
capacitors across the relays, though for these to pop is quite rare.

We replace the transistors with 2n222's which are common as muck and 
much meatier, add protection diodes and replace the relays with 
hermetically sealed ones which means no oxidisation and no sticking. 
Anyone with a bit of soldering skill can do this for less than $10

Martin

Toby Peterson wrote:

>As an aside to this, perhaps some of the more experienced electrical 
>wizards on this List would like to share their thoughts regarding 
>the massive voltage and in-rush current spikes that are created by 
>the door lock solenoids, and their possible effects on other parts 
>of the electrical system?
>  
>





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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 19:48:47 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: TOO MUCH POWER?

Want a bet? :-) They're a big variation between gauges and I've seen 
cars that show optimistically high - a DMM will tell you for sure and I 
bet it's quite happy

Martin

Todd Nelson wrote:

> I haven't tested the voltage with my DMM so it could be that the gauge is off, but I doubt it.  
>





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 15:07:07 -0400
From: "Fedeli, Joe \(DSCP\)" <Joe.Fedeli_at_dml_dla.mil>
Subject: eBay bidder's beware

Regarding : DeLorean DMC 12 1/43rd scale white metal model car SUPERB
HIGHLY DETAILED READY BUILT SCALE MODEL 1/43rd Item number: 6959437230
currently listed on eBay site.
I just want to make everyone aware that this vendor (lord43rd) in the
past, was banned from eBay by his fraudulent actions in not delivering a
paid PayPal item for several months.  He has change his user ID now from
my eBay and PayPal complaint.  Past problems have mainly been not
delivering items to those individuals that win auctions not in his
country.  eBay enforces it's policy for German EU law that allows those
vendors in EU countries to systemically have their feedback expunged of
negative feedback as allow by EU law.  This is a very little know fact
to most eBay members.  As such, feedback scores are 'inflated higher' by
removing negative feedback score entries.  Again, this only applies to
EU members only (both buyers and sellers in those countries should they
choose to have that law enforced and negative remarks removed).  Any
questions, I'd be happy to send my documentation file of my personal
experience in getting my DeLorean model shown on this auction.  I'm not
saying he has not delivered items since then, but leopards do not change
their spots.  I do not want to see good DeLorean club members get burnt
like I did from this past scammer.  PLEASE beware if ordering any toy
car from this individual!  Again, this is MY experience only and others
might have had positive results (the lucky ones).

Joe Fedeli   




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 11:40:33 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Re: Re-blackening black

I use something that is called Black Again. http://www.autogeek.net/ 
blackagain1.html  When I got my car the black was all a chalky gray  
and I was sure that I would spend thousands replacing aged trim  
pieces. I tried this stuff and it works like magic. I apply it once a  
year and each time I  use it the trim is in better shape than the  
year before.  I am very happy with  it but that's my 2 cents worth.  
It won't hurt to give it a go.

Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX

http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985

On Jun 27, 2005, at 9:52 AM, Ryan Wright wrote:

> Thanks all for the responses. I'm going to try the Griots then, we'll
> see how long it lasts. I don't really mind doing this once or twice a
> year, I just don't want it fading again after a few weeks. :)
>
> If it doesn't last as expected, I'll post here and let everyone 




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 12:30:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: TOO MUCH POWER?

The 180A alternator I just installed keeps the needle
at 12 when idle, and a little above when the car is
moving.  On the Digital meter, it is 11.5V at idle,
and as I rev up to about 2500 RPM it tops out right
below 14V.  This was with a weak battery, so I suspect
when the battery has a full charge the idle voltage
will be a bit higher.

If in doubt, hook a real digital meter to the battery.
 If you are getting over 14V, you have a problem that
could damage the battery and other electrical
components in the car.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 12:37:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Lookiong for a coolant bottle neck.

A number of vendors sell stainless steel coolant
bottles.

I am looking to find JUST the filler/cap neck for
installation on a custom pipe I am having made to
eliminate the coolant bottle...  

My goal is to replace the coolant pipe in 01860 that
the previous owner lost in a fire.  I'd like the
Legend engine to be more like the intended
configuration (without the bottle).

Thanks



		
____________________________________________________ 
Yahoo! Sports 
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football 
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 15:54:59 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: disseminating information.

Marc Levy wrote:

> . . . the technical and historical information that
> was in the possession of KPAC, which we can only
> assume is now in the hands of DMCH.

As I have mentioned before, some of the historical material was removed 
before Kapac got it and placed in the automotive research library of the 
Crawford Auto Museum here in Cleveland.  It is still there.

Historic clarification: Consolidated was the company that actually took 
possession of the stuff, as described in SSI.  Kapac was the company 
that distributed parts to DeLorean vendors for so many years.  I think 
Kapac's Marvin Katz described the details of the Kapac/Consolidated 
relationship at Ken Koncelik's Memphis show.

Here is the stopry as I understand it:

Back when they were taking possession, a Consolidated executive named 
Jeff Abrams selected some items that he believed had historic value, 
like the VIN 500 car, and donated them to the Crawford.  A small portion 
of these items, like the original model of the DMC factory that once 
stood outside JZD's office, were displayed at Ken Koncelik's Cleveland 
show.  The collection includes documents, photographs, movie films, the 
banner from DMC's trade show booth, and other items that Mr. Abrams 
thought to preserve for posterity.

I have seen some of this collection, which is stored safely in the 
library stacks but not on display.  The Crawford's inventory list of the 
collection goes on for many pages.  If Mr. Abrams did a good job, then 
it is likely that the most significant items are in Cleveland, not 
Houston, housed in a library where anyone can see them.

DMC Texas is in the business of selling parts and service, the Crawford 
Auto Museum is in the business of preserving automotive history.  If 
someone wants to make a project of digging for tidbits of long-forgotten 
DeLorean history I suggest you pay the Crawford a visit before you bug 
the people at DMC.  The Crawford will probably be more fruitful and (no 
offense James and Warren) more receptive to letting you comb through 
their stuff.  But I warn you, an hour or two isn't enough time to 
accomplish anything.  If you really want to document this stuff, you'll 
want to take a month's vacation.

If anybody takes a month of vacation in Cleveland to document DeLorean 
history, the beer is on me.

- Mike Substelny
  In sweltering Cleveland, wishing I hadn't switched my car to R-134A.





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 20:02:35 -0000
From: "LJScarlet2" <ljscarlet2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Painting Front Fascia

I current have my car at PJGrady's awaiting a strip & paint of the 
front fascia.  

What I am worried about, though, is the color.

I know Rob does not do this work himself, but sends it to another 
shop to do the paint.  Has anyone had this done?  Were you pleased 
with the results?  Was the color correct?

Does anyone know what paint should be used and what color?  I don't 
want it to come back looking different.  Obviously, it has faded a 
bit since new, but I don't want it to be freakish or not match the 
back (I'm getting a totally new rear fascia because it is warped).

Also, I have VIN#1635 and several people have told me that my car is 
an odd color for when it was produced.  I think there is more than 
one type of gray used on these cars, but I could be wrong.  

Your comments/advice/personal experience is much appreciated.  I 
have to get the car back by Friday.  






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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 15:12:24 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Door Strut Removal Method

Steve,

I once spent about 20 minutes helping a friend try to unhitch a trailer 
with no luck.  I suggested we give up and just pull the locking pin out of 
the receiver, leaving the ball stuck in the hitch until we could figure 
something out.  But when we pulled the truck forward, the now-loose ball 
just fell out of the hitch!

The moral is that the two parts just didn't want to separate in the ONE 
direction they would move.  I would therefore suggest that if you're ready 
to start cutting, start with the strut shaft first and attempt to remove 
the ends by swinging them to different angles.  Once rotated to the right 
position, they may just fall out without using force.


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, Texas



Steve <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com> 
Sent by: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
06/27/2005 12:12 PM
Please respond to
dmcnews


To
dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
cc

Subject
[DML] Re: Door Strut Removal Method



The spring clips were removed.  I did whack the struts many times with
a rubber mallet.

I guess my options are:
1.  Heat with a torch, let the metal expand, and then remove.
2.  Get the dremel tool out and start cutting.
3.  Use the pry bar.









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 20:44:21 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Lookiong for a coolant bottle neck.

Try this one..common race-car builder issue

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=COOLPART

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> A number of vendors sell stainless steel coolant
> bottles.
> 
> I am looking to find JUST the filler/cap neck for
> installation on a custom pipe I am having made to
> eliminate the coolant bottle...  
> 
> My goal is to replace the coolant pipe in 01860 that
> the previous owner lost in a fire.  I'd like the
> Legend engine to be more like the intended
> configuration (without the bottle).
> 
> Thanks






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