From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2712
Date: Thursday, June 30, 2005 3:15 PM

There are 4 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Captive nut for door striker pin
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>

2. Re: What new tires should I buy?
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

3. Re: Re: Captive nut for door striker pin
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

4. Re: Captive nut for door striker pin
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2005 14:41:36 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Captive nut for door striker pin

2 or 3 years ago, I made your "hypothetical situation" a reality when
working on another person's car.  I was able to reattach the nut
without completely removing the fender, but I did have to take many
screws out (my skinny arms helped quite a bit as well).

You'll need to remove about 1/3 of the rear portion of the rusted
screws holding the rocker panel to the body.  Next you remove the
small bolt that holds the corner in front of the wheel well to the
rocker panel.  Then you can CAREFULLY pull it down just enough to get
to the 3 probably-not-rusted lower stainless panel screws.  Next
you'll need to CAREFULLY pull back your outer weatherstrip most of the
way up the front edge of the panel, and remove those screws holding
the stainless panel in.  At this point the panel should be able to be
CAREFULLY flexed out just enough to fish your arm in there (watch out
for cuts from the sharp stainless edges) and grab the nut and
hopefully by feel, set it back into the cage for it.

Only took me 30 minutes to do, but on this car the rocker panel had
previously been removed and re-screwed in using stainless sheet metal
screws. The rocker panel is what will take you the longest. (Assuming
you ever had to deal with this hypothetical situation).  Good luck.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "L. Sandel" <ls_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Hypothetically speaking...
> 
> If through some small miracle, one were to dislodge the striker pin
captive 
> nut and it were to fall somewhere into the body... which infill,
interior, 
> or body panels should be removed to re-aquire said captive nut?  Let us 
> presuppose that it was the passenger side rear pin, and that fishing
around 
> in the body with a small telescoping magnet proved useless.  I've
looked at 
> the parts manual diagrams, but they're not so good for things like this.
> 
> Thanks for any help with this... experiment.
> -Luke & 10270






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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2005 14:49:36 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: What new tires should I buy?

Thanks Roy,

I am leaning toward the raised letters, so this looks like my only 
avenue.

I'll check it out.

Paul

\\--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, lordshill_at_dml_a... wrote:
>  
> Paul.. I just ran across the same problem myself.  If you want 
raised  white 
> letter tires there is only one brand that makes tires for front 
and rear  with 
> the raised white letters in the correct sizes.  B.F.Goodrich  
Radial/TA.  You 
> can get them from the Tire Rack on line.  I tried to  get them 
thru a local 
> dealer and he was unable to get the front size in the same  tire 
(P195/60R14) 
> but tire rack had them in stock.  4 Brand new tires ran  me 
$296.66 with 
> shipping.
>  
> Roy  #0893

>  
> In a message dated 6/30/2005 9:43:09 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> paul.sweet_at_dml_f... writes:
> 
> I am  interested in getting new tires all around, and wanted to 
now 
>




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2005 15:47:00 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Captive nut for door striker pin

Just a note on that - apart from the M5 bolt at the front, the rocker 
panel is very flexible and can be popped off its retaining clips 
allowing access to the screws holding the panel. Trying to remove the 
rocker panel bolts underneath the car is a suicide mission, on even the 
best kept cars!

Martin

Jim Reeve wrote:

>Only took me 30 minutes to do, but on this car the rocker panel had
>previously been removed and re-screwed in using stainless sheet metal
>screws. The rocker panel is what will take you the longest. (Assuming
>you ever had to deal with this hypothetical situation).  Good luck.
>
>Jim Reeve
>MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
>DMC6960
>  
>





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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2005 15:48:33 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Captive nut for door striker pin

That is how it should work - I've adjusted a few doors in my time so 
far, but not yet had a nut fall out the back, though I think I will be 
repairing Stuart's! (which actually has stripped threads so needs to be 
replaced)

Martin

Kevin Milliken wrote:

>Hi
>
>I have removed the washers on the striker pin to adjust the door, with
>trepidation I
>unscrewed it completely and it stayed in place!.
>  
>





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