From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2714
Date: Friday, July 01, 2005 4:38 PM

There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Stock DeLorean Wheel Offset, Dimensions, and Weight.
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>

2. Re: Beeding Brakes for Front End
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. RE: Door Alignment Issues
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

4. Re: Front Shock Bushings....
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

5. Re: Stock DeLorean Wheel Offset, Dimensions, and Weight.
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

6. Re: Front Shock Bushings....
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

7. Front Brake Anti-Squealing Compound
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

8. Re: Door Alignment Issues
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_gmail.com>

9. Re: Beeding Brakes for Front End
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. RE: Door Alignment Issues
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

11. Captive nut for door striker pin - resolved
From: "L. Sandel" <ls_at_dml_chickencow.csv.cmich.edu>

12. Re: Re: Beeding Brakes for Front End
From: Daniel Shane <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>

13. Re: engine swap?
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com

14. Competent mechanics for exhaust work in Massachusetts?
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

15. Re: engine swap?
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

16. Upper valve train noise
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 05:05:15 -0000
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Stock DeLorean Wheel Offset, Dimensions, and Weight.

Stock DeLorean Wheel Offset, Dimensions, and Weight.

I recently had my DeLorean's wheels stripped and powder coated and I 
figured that while they were off the car and without tires I would 
gather some information for the purpose of sharing with my fellow 
DeLorean owners.  In the AZ-D club there are some owners who just 
want to know more about their cars while others want to consider 
aftermarket wheels.  Chances are that if you are reading this, you 
fit into one of those two groups.

I took measurements using fairly basic measuring tools and for 
simplicity I rounded to the nearest 32nd of an inch and then rounded 
to the nearest whole millimeter after conversion.  If anyone finds 
fault with my measurements or finds drastically different results, 
then please provide your information to the DeLorean community 
(apparently there were at least two different castings for wheels 
according to the observations of AZ-D member Daniel Fox).

The following information was gathered after the wheels had been 
powder coated:

Stock Front 14x6 Wheel
Calculated Offset (in/mm)*:  1.375/34.925 rounded 35mm
Backspace (in/mm):  4.875/123.825 rounded 124mm
Weight (lbs/kilograms):  18.02/8.173735
Measured Outside Width (in/mm):  7/177.8 rounded 178mm

Stock Rear 15x8 Wheel
Calculated Offset (in/mm)*:  .75/19.05 rounded 19mm
Backspace (in/mm):  5.25/133.35 rounded 133mm**
Weight (lbs/kilograms):  22.20/10.06975
Measured Outside Width (in/mm):  9/228.6 rounded 229mm

NOTE:  In stock configuration the rear wheels of the DeLorean include 
a 3mm spacer.  I do not know why this spacer was not incorporated 
into the wheel design, but it is most definitely there.  When 
considering aftermarket wheels, first determine if you will keep or 
eliminate this spacer.  If you maintain the stock wheel width and you 
choose to keep the spacer, then you will need wheels that match the 
stock offset.  If you plan to eliminate the stock spacer, then you 
will need to apply the spare 3mm of material into the wheel or spacer 
that you intend to use.  For a wheel matching the stock wheel width 
you will need to find a wheel or wheel and spacer combination that 
yields a 16mm offset***.

* Calculated Offset (in/mm) was determined by using the following 
formula:  Backspace - (Measured Outside Width/2) = Calculated Offset

** I took this measurement three times because of inconsistent 
results.  The first measurement was 5-11/32" (5.34375) / 135.7312mm 
(Which would yield a Calculated Offset of (in/mm) 0.84375/21.43125 
rounded 21mm), but subsequent measurements yielded 5-1/4" (5.25) / 
133.35mm.  Please advise if you get the same or different results.

*** Or 18mm if referencing discrepancy **.

Thank you,
Ben Ferguson
Arizona DeLorean Club, Car Cruise Director - VIN 10365
American Hydrogen Association - Board of Directors, 1996 - present
captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net

There are 10 types of people in this world, those who understand 
binary and those who do not.






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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2005 00:24:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Beeding Brakes for Front End

Should be only the front ones.

--- sweetp01569 <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com> wrote:

> If I am only doing front-end brake work (calipers,
> rotors, pads), do I 
> need to bleed all four brakes when completed, or
> just the fronts?




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 07:42:30 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Door Alignment Issues

You may also have to adjust the pins fore and aft. Some times the pins are
adjusted too far forward and actually are hitting the door or are too far
rearward and the end of the pin is hitting the latch. 

Check the position of where the latch is striking the latch by putting some
grease on the pin and closing the door. You should be able to see where the
latch hit the pin in the grease when you open the door up.

My passenger door pin was too far forward and hit the door. I had to drill
through the plastic shell to the metal door pillar to get the adjusting pin
back far enough.

Dave Sontos
Vin 02573

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Todd Nelson
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 8:23 PM
To: DMC-News
Subject: [DML] Door Alignment Issues

List:

I'm in the process of aligning my striker pins so the doors close easier
without as much "clunking".  So far I have adjusted the drivers side well, I
can close the door with one finger and it latches front and back and locks
fine.  The passenger side is a slightly different story however, I have been
adjusting the pins and cannot seem to get it to close as well as the drivers
side.  It will close but takes some more force and you can definitely feel
the pins bumping the door as it closes.  I have tried removing one pin so I
only have to align one at a time, but the pins just will not move far enough
for a proper alignment.  Does it sound like I have to adjust my hinges?
That seems like it would have a huge impact on the way the way the door
closes so I have held off on that.  Let me know what you think.






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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 11:27:22 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Front Shock Bushings....

Joe

>From one of our DOC UK committee members :)... i would ask for his 
advice but he is away at the mo.. they are def NOS ones thou:)

Regards

Mike
#2001 /UK

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> What vendor did you buy them from?
> 
> 
> Joe OBrien
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Bosworth" 
<mike.bosworth_at_dml_b...> 
> wrote:
> > Hi All 
> > 
> > After replacing my front shocks with a pair of NOS ones, i note 
> that 
> > on my new ones that the 'brass' ? bushing that came fitted to 
them 
> > and goes through the bottom of the shock , is shorter than the 
old 
> > ones that came off , on my car there was no additional bushings---
 In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> What vendor did you buy them from?
> 
> 
> Joe OBrien






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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 12:28:48 -0000
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Stock DeLorean Wheel Offset, Dimensions, and Weight.

Ben

Looks like you really did your homework!  When we wrote our story on 
custom wheels in Vol 2 Issue 1, we did a lot of research on wheel 
sizes that would work on the D.  What we found is that while the 
stock dimensions give you a place to start, getting something 
anywhere close to DeLorean wheel sizes is really a longshot.  Most of 
the custom setups we illustrated that are being used are upsized to 
(15, 16) or (16, 17) or (18, 19).  Offsets are a big issue on custom 
wheels.  The front isnt usally a problem if the car has not been 
lowered.  The back usually will require a spacer or adapter.  
DeLorean Parts Northwest offers custom adapters that will solve your 
offset problems.

Grab a copy of the issue with Matt Olans car on the cover and check 
out the info.

Ron
gullwingmagazine.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "captain_hydrogen" 
<captainhydrogen_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Stock DeLorean Wheel Offset, Dimensions, and Weight.
> 
> I recently had my DeLorean's wheels stripped and powder coated and 
I 
> figured that while they were off the car and without tires I would 
> gather some information for the purpose of sharing with my fellow 
> DeLorean owners.  In the AZ-D club there are some owners who just 
> want to know more about their cars while others want to consider 
> aftermarket wheels.  Chances are that if you are reading this, you 
> fit into one of those two groups.







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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 13:09:02 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Front Shock Bushings....

There are two styles of OEM shocks, some with wide bushings and some 
with narrow. I bought a set from DMCH a Long time ago (maybe 1998?) 
and they supplied some spacers to make the "short" style fit in the 
lower arm. You do not want to install them without some sort of 
spacer to take up the space or you'll bend up the control arm as you 
tighten it up. 

If anyone happens to be looking for OEM shocks, front or back, give 
me a holler (although, with all the other (better) options out there 
I can't imagine why). 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_b...> 
wrote:
> Hi All 
> 
> After replacing my front shocks with a pair of NOS ones, i note 
that 
> on my new ones that the 'brass' ? bushing that came fitted to them 
> and goes through the bottom of the shock , is shorter than the old 
> ones that came off , on my car there was no additional bushings 
> around this shock / bolt. I note from the 'tiny' pictures in the 
> parts manual, bushings parts numbers 30 - 100478 and 36 - 109080 
are 
> the later the ones that are on my shock already or do i need theses 
> in addition ? 2 sets of bushing to each side of each shock doesnt 
> seem right ??
> 
> its a long way to go to not have the right bits :)any one / vendor 
> help ??
> 
> Kind Regards
> 
> Mike
> #2001
> Yorkshire UK






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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 14:31:39 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Front Brake Anti-Squealing Compound

I am going to replace my front calipers, shoes and shims next week, 
and install stainless brake lines.  My front brake right now squeal 
very loudly at the moment.  I see that PJ Grady sells an anti-squeal 
compound, but do local auto stores sell something comparable?  

What causes the squeal?  I am hoping the new work fixes it.  I wasn't 
planning on replacing the rotors, as they are not scored and I beleive 
the thickness is OK.  Could it be warped to cause the sound?

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944






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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 14:41:35 -0000
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door Alignment Issues

I have a similar issue with my doors not being able to align properly.
With my passenger door, the actual door makes contact with the
fiberglass body. I can remove both striker pins and the rear of the
door rubs against body.

Any thoughts on what I need to do to adjust?

Thanks!
Ej
4475

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> You may also have to adjust the pins fore and aft. Some times the
pins are
> adjusted too far forward and actually are hitting the door or are
too far
> rearward and the end of the pin is hitting the latch. 






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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 15:14:36 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Beeding Brakes for Front End

Are the brakes hard to bleed with one person if I had one of those self 
bleeders?

Thomas
VIN:2953








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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 11:59:19 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Door Alignment Issues

I'm no expert, but it sounds like you need more drastic alignment work. This
sounds like you need to actually loosen and move the door into correct
position. Then you will need to realign the front and rear fenders to match
the door. There are others here that have more experience in this area.
Consult the repair manual.

Good Luck
Dave Sontos 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
EJ Chambers
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2005 10:42 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Door Alignment Issues

I have a similar issue with my doors not being able to align properly.
With my passenger door, the actual door makes contact with the fiberglass
body. I can remove both striker pins and the rear of the door rubs against
body.

Any thoughts on what I need to do to adjust?





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2005 12:53:15 -0400
From: "L. Sandel" <ls_at_dml_chickencow.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Captive nut for door striker pin - resolved

Thanks to some helpful advice & digital pics from fellow dmcnewsers, I was 
able to solve my captive nut conundrum.  After wasting my time trying to 
retrieve it with a magnet on a string, I gave up and decided to pull the 
quarter panel back.  For posterity, here's the exact procedure that it took:

1. Peel back outer weatherstripping & remove screws securing quarter panel 
to body.  I didn't have to remove the weatherstrip, but I'll have to reapply 
adhesive in a few little spots.
2. Remove bolt in wheel well securing quarter panel to rocker panel
3. Push outer edge of rocker panel down.  It's held in with little clips & 
they should pop out easily.  Ignore the service manual's instructions to 
remove the rocker panel screws (special thanks to Martin G for this tip!)
4. Remove final 3 screws securing quarter panel to body (formerly hidden by 
the rocker panel)
5. Pull quarter panel away from body, retrieve captive nut.  You may also 
find your upper seat belt anchor cover in there too (I did).  What a great 
time to reattach that!
6. Slide arm between quarter & body to replace the captive nut.
7. Reassemble.
8. ???
9. Profit!

This was actually a lot easier than I anticipated.  I think it took about an 
hour from start to finish, including a trip into the house to get a 
band-aid.

-Luke & 10270 






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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 18:55:44 +0100
From: Daniel Shane <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Beeding Brakes for Front End

With a Pressure bleeder I bleed the whole car in 20 minutes.  Very easy.
You have to jack up and remove the rear wheels to bleed the rear caliper but
the fronts can be done with the wheels on and the car on the ground.

Dan 


On 1/7/05 4:14 pm, "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> Are the brakes hard to bleed with one person if I had one of those self
> bleeders?




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2005 15:00:09 EDT
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: engine swap?

Well, from what I understand, my car overheated quite drastically and also  
seized (if I'm remembering right, anyway).  The POs dropped in a new PRV6,  and 
it's the gem of my car.  I'd have a DeLorean specialist take a look at  it.  
We got 'em spread out all over the country.  Where do you  live?  Surely one 
of us can recommend a decent shop.
 
If worse comes to worst, and you have to pull the engine, why not go for  the 
3.0 Eagle Premier?  Virtually the same power plant, with a few  modifications 
needed, and a little bit more power (not to mention more  economical: I think 
the three-point-oh can he had for around $800 ~  $1,000).  I wouldn't mind 
seeing one of those turbocharged, either.  8-)  But I digress.
 
Just one man's two cents.  Might be worth looking into.  I've  never done, 
nor seen the swap myself, but I hear it's one of the more easier  ones.  I'm 
sure someone else will step in any moment here and give us all  the details about 
it.
 
Regards,
William Fries
#1366


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 18:44:53 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Competent mechanics for exhaust work in Massachusetts?

My car has exhaust leaks that are becoming very evident by my ear.  
The driver side exahaust manifold looks like the gasket was recently 
replaced.  The nuts and studs look in pretty good shape. However, 
the other side looks pretty rusted, as does the connectors to the 
crossover pipe.  The heat stove is also very rusty.  

I don't think I want to tackle this job myself.  Other than taking 
it to PJ Grady's, does anyone know a shop in the MA area that has 
replaced or removed these components before, who can handle gasket 
replacement as well as dealing with broken studs, etc. on a Delorean?

How reliable are general shops that do exhaust work.  I am hesitant 
to take it just anywhere.

Thanks,

Paul









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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2005 19:27:37 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: engine swap?

Stick with the PRV! They are good engines once set up right. And by keeping it original the value should stay good, and getting help and advice from this forum and the vendors will be easier.
 
My gearbox swop from auto-manual was great. Five months on and its still running without any problems. The 5-speed is a much better setup than the auto in my opinion. How is yours coming along, apart from your engine problem?

Thomas Mc Auley
Vin #4087
Belfast

mydmc5898 <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi everyone, recently I found out I may need to do some engine 
work/rebuilding on my car. I'm having a compresion problem and was 
told that there maybe something internal also wrong with it. Now I'm 
more of a purist with the cars, as long as they are in a restorable 
condtion, however mine has already been modified from and auto to a 
5-speed. I haven't been able to get my car looked at only beacuse of 
the funds so its sitting quietly in the garage. I have very to 
little to no mechanical experiance. But would am alwasy up for some 
type of new venture. Now if the engine is going to need a complete 
rebuild or if I do need a new one (worst case senerio) it would have 
to sit for a long time as I just do not have the respurces to do 
this in a resanble time. Between school and work time and money. 
However if it does need to sit a 




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 21:05:22 -0000
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Upper valve train noise

I can hear a high pitch ticking noise, which sounds like a sewing 
machine, in the passenger side valve train. My mechanic doesnt know if 
it is hydrolic or mechanical. He said if its hydrolic it would regain 
its pressure and stop after a while, is it mechanical? And waht are 
the adjustment specifications to adjust it to stop. Thanks






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