From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2721
Date: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 9:34 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: BTF car(s).
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>

2. Re: BTF car(s).
From: "Charlie" <charles_az1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Penetrating oil, or how to remove really corroded nuts
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

4. Re: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

5. Re: Help with rotors!
From: Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>

6. Re: Colorado/Denver "Back To The Future" Gathering
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Help! Door lock problem!
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

8. Re: Just When you think your car is as good as it gets!
From: "bunkobabes" <bunkobabes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: DeLorean Buyers Guide in July 05 edition of Classic Motorsports magazine NICE!!!
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Re: Auto Trans Computer Test?
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: engine swap?
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Help! Door lock problem!
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>

13. Re: 'best handling car'
From: Glenn <green95gst_at_dml_gmail.com>

14. Re: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: Help! Door lock problem!
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

16. RE: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

17. RE: side stripe
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Clutch will not disengage fully
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

19. Re: Help with rotors!
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

20. Need Drivers Torsion Bar & More
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

21. Re: Clutch will not disengage fully
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

22. Large DeLorean Poster wanted
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: 'best handling car'
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

24. Re: Help! Door lock problem!
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

25. AW: Help! Door lock problem!
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 17:30:13 -0400
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>
Subject: RE: BTF car(s).

It is. It was actually just a shell on a wooden frame with explosives
that detonated with a contact switch. Look closely at the frames and
you'll see the Delorean explode before the train impacted it.

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
VIN: Griff's BMW

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Mike Green
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 3:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] BTF car(s).


Legend has it that the delorean hanging in hawaii is in fact the train
wreck one.. but sadly we all know that no train would wreck a D like
that, so it was (or at least must have been) chopped up.. I cant provide
any proof on this right now.. however I do recall seeing some literature
to back it up that came "from the horses mouth" so to speak (possibly
kevin pike).

On 7/5/05, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Unconfirmed, but I was told the "car" in Planet
> Hollywood, Hawaii was the car that was hit by the
> train.
> 
> Based on how awful it looked, I don't doubt it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ____________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Sports
> Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football 
> http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: 
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
------------------------------------
Mike Green
Software architect
DOC 427
MSN: mikeyturbouk_at_dml_hotmail.com




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 21:31:43 -0000
From: "Charlie" <charles_az1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BTF car(s).

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
>> There were a number of picture cars built for the 3 movies.  Most 
did not fair well.  Although I have no firsthand knowledge of this 
as a fact, I have been told that the BTTF 3 car with oversized 
whitewalls was sold to someone in Northern California in the last 
year or so, but I have no details. 

*There is one still on the backlot wich many can see if its still 
there facing the golf course in the Transportation dept(take the VIP 
tour to see) near the prop house. the car has no grill and many time 
parts missing but looks sun beat with the white walls. I also got to 
see the engine it it different than a stock Delorean and forgot what 
it was. 

>>I know there has been recent mention of the car used in the ride 
as well.  First know that in most of the ride you are seeing 
miniature cars, about 24 inches long.There were at least 2 flying 
models, one with fixed wheels and one with pivoting wheels.  Another 
smaller model was used for the lavafall scene. There was no, 
absolutely no CG in the ridefilm - mostly in camera effects, 
traditional matting and some hand rotoscoping.  The only Digital 
model of the Delorean was used for diagnostic video sequences in the 
preshow video - created by Mojo on an old Video Toaster.  Some of 
those models are now in the hands of private collectors.

**Dont forget the Half Delorean that was set on a gimble also used 
for BTTF2 and the before video with Doc on the ride. I am not sure 
if this is the same half car ( go to www.bttf.com gallery) as the 
one used in the Specal FX show at Universal back in the 90s because 
that one had no hood or front. This car can be seen at Universal 
Hollywood on the VIP Tour only. 
> 
> The only "real" Delorean in the ridefilm itself was shipped from
> Hollywood to the Berkshires. It was treated with paraffin wax and 
spray snow to create the look of a icy cold Delorean.  Although it 
ran poorly, it did not run in the film.  It rolled down a ramp into 
frame and spun sideways with cable assists with Tom Wilson at the 
wheel.  It was then trucked back to Hollywood.

This is the car as seen on this site neat story:

  http://www.samnet.net/alfaguy/timemachine/index.html

**The promo car at USH its just a promo I have not seen the 
refurbished screen used. the inside has nothing to show but a sun 
baked interior, oddly the door has a #1 on it.  This car was taken 
out last year and broke down 2 blocks away from USH in Studio 
City,CA. Was serviced by the Cheveron in Studio City and then fixed 
by the transportation dept at USH.  And can be seen in front of the 
ride today.  

Charlie

 
>> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 
Behalf
> Of Faded N Jaded
> Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 11:17 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] BTF car(s).
> 
> If I'm interpreting the information which Tom Tait gave us, the 
movie
> studio went out and bought a car to pass off as the original BTF 
car
> when in fact it wasn't. It was just a car they bought, and 
presumably
> transformed to look like the BTF car, so that they could reap some
> publicity off of it. So, in reality, the car which Tom Tait says he
> bought is really not the original car used to make any of the BTF 
cars
> but just one they used to advertise the movie.
> 
>  
> 
> I don't want to imply that the car which Tom Tait bought is worth 
less
> because of that; I merely want to be sure I understand what 
transpired
> there. I would imagine the rest of us on this list would like to 
know
> the true and accurate story as well. 
> 
>  
> 
> Because of what Tom told us, my question still stands, what did 
happen
> to the original car or cars used in the movies? Does anyone know? 
> 
>  
> 
> My original question was prompted by a claim by someone who says he
> bought the original BTF car and is restoring it. He did not 
identify
> himself as Tom. I have not yet seen the car but I do know where he
> lives, hence my desire to know where, or approximately where Tom 
Tait
> lives.  
> 
>  
> 
> Might there be several cars out there claiming to be BTF 
originals? I'm
> beginning to wonder.
> -----------
> 
> sandorp1 <piszar_at_dml_s...> wrote:Tom, that's pretty fortunate for
> you. How did you learn about that car and who to make an offer to? 
And
> do you have any pics?
> 
> Sandor
> # 3002
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" wrote:
> > I'm sure you will get lots of info in the picture cars, but to 
add
> a
> > side note.
> > 
> > #10902 was purchased by Universal in 1993 to raffle off at the
> grand
> > opening of the BTTF ride in Hollywood. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 22:18:50 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Penetrating oil, or how to remove really corroded nuts

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
>  
> In a message dated 7/4/2005 11:48:40 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
> bmanderville_at_dml_c... writes:
> 
> Hi all,  decided to dive in and start tinkering with the car this 
> morning.   Immediate problems, all I want to do is replace the 
> alternator, and the AC  and Altrenator belts.  Well the adjusting 
bolt 
> retaining nut  (SP10037) on the lower AC pulley bracket (10072) is 
stuck 
> on there like  you would not believe, I have soaked it with 
penetrating 
> oil for over 2  hours and it just will not breakfree, any one got 
any  
> ideas?
> 
> 
> Bernie,
>  
> I have found that often times a quick sharp jab at a fastener will 
break it  
> free better than slowly applying more pressure. When you go fast, 
you usually  
> break what rust or other opposing forces are on there free.  When 
you go  
> slow, you often twist metal until it breaks, especially with nuts 
and  bolts.  I 
> would also suggest using some heat i.e. propane torch on stubborn  
fasteners. 
> just watch where you point that thing!  I would replace the  
rubber oil seal 
> behind the belt tensioner thing anyway, and especially if you  get 
any heat by 
> it.
>  
> Good Luck
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I finally got it broken loose, but the nut still sticks and for the 
life of me I can't figure out how anyone can get a wrench on it 
while on the car.  But any way, I can now tear it apart and put it 
back together in about 30 mins.  Bet I can do it faster the next 
time.  I didn't back the nut off far enough to get the new belt on.  
So next time I go in it all comes apart again.   And this time I'm 
backing the retaining nut wayyyyy off.  And I will get the nut off 
of the alternator even if I have to use a nut cracker on it.

I am more than likely just going to get a new bolt and nut for the 
AC belt adjustment, and that will be the end of it, until the next 
time ;).

Bernie






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 22:21:34 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics

Check your rotor, and make sure it's on the right way.  I have had 
it happen to me before (not on a DeLorean) and it's really 
embarresing, flip it 180 and the engine starts.  Just give it a 
quick check.  All of your symptoms point to it.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
> I'm concerned because my failure coincides with replacing the cap 
and rotor and I'm afraid I disturbed something at the distributor,  
When I last had time to look at the car a few days ago (my wife is 
sick so the car is on the back burner for a bit)  I was able to 
determine that the RPM relay was not closing, but was getting a 3 
volt DC signal as read by my meter.  I now understand that the 
signal is a pulse and cannot be read realizably in a DC voltage mode.
> 
> I'm happy to replace the relay, and am looking at the upgraded 
relay from SpecialTauto,  but I'm really more concerned that I 
screwed something up elsewhere.  My understand was that the signal 
went from the distributor to the ECM and then to the relay.  I'd 
love to verify proper operation of each of these components.
> 
> What do I really need to do?  Check Ohm reading at the rear 
firewall connector and verify 600 ohms - right?  At all times or 
only when cranking?  This tells me the distributor is ok, but maybe 
not the ECM?  I do suspect that I need to reset the timing at the 
distributor - when installing the cap I inadvertently knocked the 
Rotor, although I tried to put it back in its original position I 
probably screwed that up.  Could the timing being out cause the RPM 
relay to malfunction?
> 
> It just seems like a heck of a coincidence that I would lose an 
RPM relay while messing with the distributor.
> 
> Tom 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 
Behalf Of doctorDHD_at_dml_a...
> Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 5:36 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics
> 
>  
>  
> Tom,
>  
> What exactly are you trying to accomplish or find out?
>  
> The "signal" going to the RPM relay is on the WS wire (white with 
a slate
> stripe) and comes from the Ignition ECU to ignition coil  primary 
connection.  
> It is a "tach" signal and thus you should be able  to get a 
reading with a standard automotive diagnostic tachometer.
>  
> If this info does not help, please give us more details about what 
you  need.
>  
> D & 6530
> Currently undergoing a water pump change.
> 
> Message:  6         
> Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005  15:16:59 -0700
> From: "Tom Tait"  <TTait_at_dml_B...>
> Subject: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator  Diagnostics
> 
> Is there a procedure available to test the signal going to  the 
RMP relay?  Can the relay itself be tested with a 12 VDC power  
supply or do I need an alternating/pulsing current?
> 
> Tom Tait  #10902
> 
> 
> 
>  
> Thank  you,
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> "Just Say  NO, to the COUCH POTATO!"
> 
> 
> To see how go to _www.tvpedaler.com_ (http://www.tvpedaler.com/)   
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 15:21:57 -0700
From: Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Help with rotors!

The bearings are indeed sealed - until you remove the rotor.  Same
thing happend to me on both of the front.  I suggest getting a
sand-filled plastic mallet of about two pounds and go at it.  That's
what worked for me.  The rotors and bearings finally gave up the
fight.

Also, you may find that the inner racer of the bearing will get stuck
on the carrier.  I had to use an air hammer to remove them, but it
worked.

I haven't had the pleasure of removing the rear rotors, so I'm not
much help there.  I was told you just need to remove the phillips
screw and they come off.

Johnny
5518

On 7/5/05, sweetp01569 <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com> wrote:
> I am attempting to rebuild my brakes. I got all four calipers off, but
> am having problems getting the hubs/rotors off.  They are all pretty
> glazed and all I wanted to do was to take them off and get them turned
> at a local garage.  Per the manual, once I get the hub nut off on
> either the front or back, it just says to pull the disc right off.
> 
> After a rubber mallet on my front driver's side, ball bearings from
> the back spilled out, which I thought were sealed.  I can't mallet the
> passenger side off.  The rears has some sort of friction retaining
> push washer over the threads and pushed inside.  I thought a rubber
> mallet again might help, but it seemed to loosen the drive axle joint
> behind it, instead.
> 
> I need help! How do I get the rotors off?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 15:29:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Colorado/Denver "Back To The Future" Gathering


Is there any place on the Net to find out when BTTF
showings are happening where in the nation?  I live
out in fricking BFE (Gulf Coast), and I'd be willing
to drive to Tallahassee or so just to share in
something fun like this.

Jeremiah
#3299


		
____________________________________________________ 
Yahoo! Sports 
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football 
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 16:11:44 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Help! Door lock problem!

> Linkage appears fine.  This problem happens to both doors at the same time.

So, at the door, you lock, unlock, and it breaks. Then you try to
lock/unlock from both doors and neither one activates the solenoids?
Then some period of time elapses and it starts working again?

If you hadn't said you can manually activate the solenoids from within
the module, I would have blamed the circuit breaker. Have you verified
it isn't popping? When the system quits working from the doors, have
you tested to see if the module has power before things start working
again?

The door locking circuit is really quite simple, so this should be
easy to track down. You're going to need a multimeter; measure the
pins at the wiring harness to the lock module (with the module
disconnected) to verify the slide type switches in both doors are
working properly on multiple manual lock & unlock cycles. Then verify
you can manually activate both door lock solenoids by shorting the
appropriate pins (again, with the module disconnected). If this all
works without issue, you've got a problem internal to your door
module. At that point I'd either begin troubleshooting that circuit in
depth, or simply replace the module alltogether.

-Ryan


On 7/5/05, Jace & Jenn <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net> wrote:
> Linkage appears fine.  This problem happens to both doors at the same time.
> 
> Jace
> VIN 3488
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 12:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Help! Door lock problem!
> 
> 
> > If everything works fine manually tripping the locks at the module,
> > but it doesn't always work by pressing the lock/unlock switch on the
> > doors, I'd suggest opening the doors up and checking the linkage.
> > There's a "slider" deal in there that trips the door lock module. It's
> > possible you're not getting a good connection there.
> >
> > Next time this happens, try using the other door. So if the driver's
> > side doesn't trip the electrical locks, hit the lock/unlock on the
> > passenger's door and see what happens. If one works and the other
> > doesn't, your problem is almost certainly in the door.
> >
> > -Ryan
> >
> > On 7/4/05, Jace & Jenn <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net> wrote:
> >> Group,
> >>
> >> I have been having some problems with my door locks.  I can lock once and
> >> unlock once.  After that,  the locks will not respond for quite some
> >> time.  I can then lock once and unlock once again and the process starts
> >> all over.
> >>
> >> I have tested the solenoids independently for proper function, and they
> >> both work flawlessly.  I am getting power at the switches.  I opened the
> >> door lock module and can manually trip lock/unlock to work.  Toby
> >> Peterson suggested that the capacitors may be malfunctioning, so I
> >> replaced them to no avail.
> >>
> >> Help!  What can I do next?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Jace
> >> VIN 3488
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> >> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >>
> >> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> >> www.dmcnews.com
> >>
> >> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> >> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> > www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 23:15:00 -0000
From: "bunkobabes" <bunkobabes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Just When you think your car is as good as it gets!

Hi Dan,
  Before you order the motor make sure the problem is not the cable.
My driver side window stopped working and a Delorean owner told me 
it may be the cable, he said he had the same problem.

Have a Great Day!
BOB - - - - - 808
5144

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> I know most of you have had a similar frustration, I now have my 
own story.
> 
> I worked very hard all winter to make my car as good as it can be. 
Not concourse, but a great example of a Delorean Driver. Well after 
many months tinkering, replacing and fixing. I finally passed 
emmisions all my lights and accessories were working. Life was 
beautiful, the birds were singing, children laughing life is great 
right!
> 
> Well not quite, first ride out of the box, I get to my destination 
and my drivers side window goes 9/10ths closed and stops. Thinking 
its the switch I play with it and clean it... Nothing. I switch the 
passenger side switch with drivers side. No change and the passenger 
side still works great.
> 
> Bottom line... As a former Saturday Night Live personality used to 
say...."Its always something!"
> 
> I will be ording a new motor in the next few weeks when I can 
sneak the expediture past the Boss!
> 
> Have a great day.
> 
> Dan Haney
> vin 3254
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________
> PeoplePC Online
> A better way to Internet
> http://www.peoplepc.com






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 23:46:18 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Buyers Guide in July 05 edition of Classic Motorsports magazine NICE!!!

Great article indeed.  Shannon Yocom posted about it on here a few 
weeks ago, and that's how I found out about it.  Two of my local 
Barnes & Nobles didn't have it, but Borders did.  LOTS of great 
pictures, as the article spans about 10 pages.  Well worth buying the 
magazine in my opinion.  (not too bad at around $7)

-Derek L
VIN 5302



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Packodenton_at_dml_a... wrote:
> The July 2005 Classic Motorsports magazine has a very nice DeLorean 
DMC12  
> buyers guide article. The article is well written and includes  
several nice 
> pictures of some very nice DeLorean automobiles. I  enjoyed reading 
a positive 
> DeLorean article for a change.  The author was  professional, 
positive & well 
> sourced...Thank you Edward Bernstein, you are  still respected here.
>  
> Sincerely Yours,
> Michael Pack
> Maryland






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 20:29:13 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Auto Trans Computer Test?

I had similar concerns about my auto trans computer so after I took it out I 
mounted it in a black plactic box on the left side of the engine compartment.  
I ran a shielded two conductor wire to the "generator" that is still 
mechanically connected to the tranny. 

I was glad I did it too because shortly after it started acting up again and 
it was a hell of a lot easier to get to.  Turned out to be broken connections 
in the ribbon cable connecting the two boards. (Another know and common 
problem once the computer is opened up.)   I have since replace that cable with 
seperate pieces of flexible wire.  If you need more help don't hesitate to ask.

D & 6530 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 17:46:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: engine swap?




Well up until this point since January I haven't had a problem at all with the car or the 5-speed conversion and am very happy with the 5-speed over the auto. Its amazing the differnce. 

I'm suppose to have the car looked at later on this week. I don't have a problem with the PRV6, I know they can be very reliable. I just considered a change only if I was going to lose the engine. I'm just worried about how poorly it was treated in the past that if I fix it this time, will I start losing heads etc... later on down the road, so would it be cheaper then to lose the PRV6 and toss in somethign else. I woud have help doing this, and I understand it would take lots of time, energy, and $$$.

 

 

Thanks,

Darryl

VIN 5898


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 19:31:03 -0500
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Help! Door lock problem!

> So, at the door, you lock, unlock, and it breaks. Then you try to
> lock/unlock from both doors and neither one activates the solenoids?
> Then some period of time elapses and it starts working again?

Correct.  I also have Toby's keyless entry installed and it happens when I 
use the remote as well.  (Toby's system has been verified as working 
properly.)

> If you hadn't said you can manually activate the solenoids from within
> the module, I would have blamed the circuit breaker. Have you verified
> it isn't popping? When the system quits working from the doors, have
> you tested to see if the module has power before things start working
> again?

Yes I have, and power is there.

> The door locking circuit is really quite simple, so this should be
> easy to track down. You're going to need a multimeter; measure the
> pins at the wiring harness to the lock module (with the module
> disconnected) to verify the slide type switches in both doors are
> working properly on multiple manual lock & unlock cycles. Then verify
> you can manually activate both door lock solenoids by shorting the
> appropriate pins (again, with the module disconnected). If this all
> works without issue, you've got a problem internal to your door
> module. At that point I'd either begin troubleshooting that circuit in
> depth, or simply replace the module alltogether.

I have already tested the solenoids independent of the module and both work 
great.


Here is a new development.  While verifying that the module itself was 
getting power, I also checked the capacitors.  While the system was 
"unlocked", the lock capacitor was holding at 12v, and the unlock capacitor 
was holding at .5v.  When I "locked" the system, the unlock capacitor was 
holding at 12v, and the lock capacitor was holding at .5v.  So when I went 
to unlock, the system responded and unlocked, however now both capacitors 
were holding at .5v.  Obviously, when I went to lock again, there was not 
enough standby power to activate.  The module is getting steady power at 
this time.  I am not an electrician, so I'm not sure why it's taking so long 
for the capacitors (which just got replaced because I thought the old ones 
were shot) to charge again.  They do eventually charge because I am able to 
lock/unlock again after some time.

Jace



> -Ryan
>
>
> On 7/5/05, Jace & Jenn <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net> wrote:
>> Linkage appears fine.  This problem happens to both doors at the same 
>> time.
>>
>> Jace
>> VIN 3488
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
>> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 12:27 PM
>> Subject: Re: [DML] Help! Door lock problem!
>>
>>
>> > If everything works fine manually tripping the locks at the module,
>> > but it doesn't always work by pressing the lock/unlock switch on the
>> > doors, I'd suggest opening the doors up and checking the linkage.
>> > There's a "slider" deal in there that trips the door lock module. It's
>> > possible you're not getting a good connection there.
>> >
>> > Next time this happens, try using the other door. So if the driver's
>> > side doesn't trip the electrical locks, hit the lock/unlock on the
>> > passenger's door and see what happens. If one works and the other
>> > doesn't, your problem is almost certainly in the door.
>> >
>> > -Ryan
>> >
>> > On 7/4/05, Jace & Jenn <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net> wrote:
>> >> Group,
>> >>
>> >> I have been having some problems with my door locks.  I can lock once 
>> >> and
>> >> unlock once.  After that,  the locks will not respond for quite some
>> >> time.  I can then lock once and unlock once again and the process 
>> >> starts
>> >> all over.
>> >>
>> >> I have tested the solenoids independently for proper function, and 
>> >> they
>> >> both work flawlessly.  I am getting power at the switches.  I opened 
>> >> the
>> >> door lock module and can manually trip lock/unlock to work.  Toby
>> >> Peterson suggested that the capacitors may be malfunctioning, so I
>> >> replaced them to no avail.
>> >>
>> >> Help!  What can I do next?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks,
>> >> Jace
>> >> VIN 3488
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> >> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> >>
>> >> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
>> >> www.dmcnews.com
>> >>
>> >> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> >> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> > moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> >
>> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
>> > www.dmcnews.com
>> >
>> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 17:55:19 -0700
From: Glenn <green95gst_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: 'best handling car'

Andy

One thing you have to remember is the Delorean was built for handling.  
Comparing it to an STI that has a tendency to under-steer violently 
when pushed hard and the SHO that is more or less a pig on the track, 
the Delorean is a dream.  As for the power, our cars do lack a little 
in the acceleration, but fortunately they are light enough to almost 
make up for it.

I actually road race a Mitsubishi Eclipse that is FWD and Turbo.  I 
have nearly 5k in after-market suspension and it handles ALMOST as good 
as my Delorean with the stock suspension and old worn bushings.  Maybe 
one of these days I might take the Delorean for a couple of laps around 
the track, but right now I would just like to keep from going off track 
as it is more expensive to repair.  Maybe as I fix mine up more I will 
get the nerve to take it to the track, but the parts I keep breaking on 
my Eclipse keep me from the risk of taking the Delorean out.

If I do take it out, I will take pictures for all to see.

-Glenn

On Jul 4, 2005, at 6:14 PM, Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> Group,
>
> Just thought I would share a little compliment I got from a guy the 
> other
> day.  I recently hired a younger guy who is really REALLY into sport  
> compact
> tuning.  Not ricing, but REAL tuning as in adding turbos,  
> superchargers,
> nitrous, intercoolers, big brakes, etc to imports like nissans  and 
> acura's and
> such.  Well anyway, he heard from other employees that I  have a 
> DeLorean and he
> kept begging me to see it and talking about how he wanted  to drive 
> one and
> stuff.  I rarely bring it to work but finally I gave  in.  He was very 
> impressed
> with the car's stance and shape, and thought it  looked way better 
> than he
> imagined it.  Of course he begged to go for a  drive.  Well I normally 
> don't do
> this but I know he is smart and knows what  he is doing and I had 
> gotten to
> know him well enough the last couple weeks so I  gave in and told him 
> to be back
> in five minutes.  When he came back he had  the biggest grin on his 
> face and
> told me it was the one of the best handling  cars he has ever driven.  
> He said
> it wasn't really underpowered but if it  had just a little more power 
> it would
> be even better.  Pretty impressive  coming from a guy who is used to
> autocrossing STi's and nitrous powers  SHO's.
>
> Andy





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 20:45:47 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics

Good idea. I agree that this could be the problem. The easy way to check 
this is with a timing light. Then you don't have to mess around with the cap 
and wires...unless the timing light shows the rotor to be pointing in the 
wrong direction.

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics
>Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 22:21:34 -0000
>
>Check your rotor, and make sure it's on the right way.  I have had
>it happen to me before (not on a DeLorean) and it's really
>embarresing, flip it 180 and the engine starts.  Just give it a
>quick check.  All of your symptoms point to it.
>
>Bernie
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
> > I'm concerned because my failure coincides with replacing the cap
>and rotor and I'm afraid I disturbed something at the distributor,
>When I last had time to look at the car a few days ago (my wife is
>sick so the car is on the back burner for a bit)  I was able to
>determine that the RPM relay was not closing, but was getting a 3
>volt DC signal as read by my meter.  I now understand that the
>signal is a pulse and cannot be read realizably in a DC voltage mode.
> >
> > I'm happy to replace the relay, and am looking at the upgraded
>relay from SpecialTauto,  but I'm really more concerned that I
>screwed something up elsewhere.  My understand was that the signal
>went from the distributor to the ECM and then to the relay.  I'd
>love to verify proper operation of each of these components.
> >
> > What do I really need to do?  Check Ohm reading at the rear
>firewall connector and verify 600 ohms - right?  At all times or
>only when cranking?  This tells me the distributor is ok, but maybe
>not the ECM?  I do suspect that I need to reset the timing at the
>distributor - when installing the cap I inadvertently knocked the
>Rotor, although I tried to put it back in its original position I
>probably screwed that up.  Could the timing being out cause the RPM
>relay to malfunction?
> >
> > It just seems like a heck of a coincidence that I would lose an
>RPM relay while messing with the distributor.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On
>Behalf Of doctorDHD_at_dml_a...
> > Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 5:36 AM
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [DML] RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics
> >
> >
> >
> > Tom,
> >
> > What exactly are you trying to accomplish or find out?
> >
> > The "signal" going to the RPM relay is on the WS wire (white with
>a slate
> > stripe) and comes from the Ignition ECU to ignition coil  primary
>connection.
> > It is a "tach" signal and thus you should be able  to get a
>reading with a standard automotive diagnostic tachometer.
> >
> > If this info does not help, please give us more details about what
>you  need.
> >
> > D & 6530
> > Currently undergoing a water pump change.
> >
> > Message:  6
> > Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005  15:16:59 -0700
> > From: "Tom Tait"  <TTait_at_dml_B...>
> > Subject: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator  Diagnostics
> >
> > Is there a procedure available to test the signal going to  the
>RMP relay?  Can the relay itself be tested with a 12 VDC power
>supply or do I need an alternating/pulsing current?
> >
> > Tom Tait  #10902
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thank  you,
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> >
> > "Just Say  NO, to the COUCH POTATO!"
> >
> >
> > To see how go to _www.tvpedaler.com_ (http://www.tvpedaler.com/)
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
>address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
>www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 22:04:41 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Help! Door lock problem!

 
 
Jace,
 
>From your description about the fact that after a  period of time they work 
again, I would suspect the circuit breaker that the  door lock module is 
connected to.
 
Put a volt meter or test light on the module side of  the circuit breaker 
that powers the door lock module to see if it is opening  up.
 
Obviously if it is,  either the breaker is  bad or the lock are drawing too 
much current.
 
D & 6530
 
Dave  Delman




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 22:18:00 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: RE: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics

 
 
Does the engine run when you use a jumper on the RPM  relay socket?
 
If so with the engine running attach a automotive  analyzer / tachometer to 
the WS wire going to the RPM really socket and see if  you have the proper tach 
signal there.
 
If you do, then it may be that the RPM relay is  bad.
 
If not then find out where the break in the circuit  is.
 
You DO have a schematic right?
 
D & 6530
 
Dave  Delman




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 21:18:02 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: side stripe

Anyone can make the stripes if these 2 things are in place.

#1. If you want grained material, does the company have it in stock so you
don't have    to buy the whole roll.

#2. Will there machine handle the thickness. Some will only do the flat
vinyl that is
    2mil thickness.

#3. Running around all over the place to make the above happen.

#4. We can make them in any color as long as material is available.

John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of James
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 12:35 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] side stripe


ANYONE can have a side stripe made in ANY color they want at any local
sign shop for about $80 or so - email me and I will send you the files
that you can take or email to your sign shop (they'll fit on a floppy,
if anyone still has any of those) and you're done!

As some background, we re-created this artwork, decided that unless
they could be made from exactly the same material (screen printed DMC
logo in a flat, non-textured area, smoother edges at top and bottom of
stripe, correct texture, etc) at a reasonable price, it wasn't worth
it. We're making the files available FREE to those who email me asking
for them.

Regards,

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com
800/872-3621

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> That was Ken Costa's car with the blue strip. He had it made at a
local shop in the Orlando area. It did add a different look to the car.
>  He has since sold the car.
> I think Video Bob can make a stripe in any color...right Bob?
>
> Cecil Longwisch
> #10663

>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: andy<mailto:andydandy777_at_dml_a...>
>   To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>   Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 10:13 AM
>   Subject: [DML] side stripe
>
>
>   About a year ago there was some pictures of a Delorean with a blue
>   side stripe, does any one know who's car this was and where did they
>   get the blue stripes?




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 22:23:10 -0500
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Clutch will not disengage fully

Hi again all, I replaced the leaking clutch master cylinder and all
was well for about a day.  After driving the car to the next town and
getting a bite to eat the clutch would not disengage fully.  I drove
back to Biloxi and went into a casino, when I left an hour later the
clutch would barely disengage at all, I had a difficult time getting
her home.  I went ahead and re-bled the clutch and did not find any
air in the system.  The clutch pedal is as stiff as it always has been
and I'm seeing atleast 1-1.5" of travel of the clutch fork.  I have an
adjustable cleavis pin on my new master cylinder and by extending that
to its maximum distance I was able to improve the situation but not
enough to eliminate it (I prefer to fix the root cause, not just
over-compensate for it).  Here is a bit of history.  A new clutch TO
and pilot bearing, rebuilt clutch disc, stainless clutch line, new
master and rebuilt slave cylinder went in in '99 by the PO. I replaced
the master cylinder yesterday.  The clutch does not slip but the TO
bearing is now making a fair amount of noise.  The clutch fluid bled
out shows quite a bit of color and bits of deteriorated rubber which I
assume is coming from the old master cylinder that was in poor
condition.

How much travel should the clutch fork have to disengage the pressure
plate?  Aside from the throwout bearing noise my problem seems to
still be hydraulic.  Is it possible that the slave cylinder is now the
culprit?  When the slave goes bad does it leak visibly (mine shows no
external leakage)?

Help me out with this one, I can't seem to get this one solved.

Thanks,
Jeff
#10544




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 03:35:37 -0000
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Help with rotors!

Once you remove your wheels you must remove the wheel spacer plate on the rotor 
to reveal the philips screw that retains the rotor to the hub & rotor come right off.
I do these brakes for owners around here at least 2 cars a year plus my frame off I 
just finished fronts & working on rears as soon as I get some help to bleed lines ( I 
really need a power bleeder .
Lawrence

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> The bearings are indeed sealed - until you remove the rotor.  Same
> thing happend to me on both of the front.  I suggest getting a
> sand-filled plastic mallet of about two pounds and go at it.  That's
> what worked for me.  The rotors and bearings finally gave up the
> fight.
> 
> Also, you may find that the inner racer of the bearing will get stuck
> on the carrier.  I had to use an air hammer to remove them, but it
> worked.
> 
> I haven't had the pleasure of removing the rear rotors, so I'm not
> much help there.  I was told you just need to remove the phillips
> screw and they come off.
> 
> Johnny
> 5518
> 
> On 7/5/05, sweetp01569 <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> > I am attempting to rebuild my brakes. I got all four calipers off, but
> > am having problems getting the hubs/rotors off.  They are all pretty
> > glazed and all I wanted to do was to take them off and get them turned
> > at a local garage.  Per the manual, once I get the hub nut off on
> > either the front or back, it just says to pull the disc right off.
> > 
> > After a rubber mallet on my front driver's side, ball bearings from
> > the back spilled out, which I thought were sealed.  I can't mallet the
> > passenger side off.  The rears has some sort of friction retaining
> > push washer over the threads and pushed inside.  I thought a rubber
> > mallet again might help, but it seemed to loosen the drive axle joint
> > behind it, instead.
> > 
> > I need help! How do I get the rotors off?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Paul






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 03:27:49 -0000
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Need Drivers Torsion Bar & More

Hey Guys,
Lawrence Here, I can't find my drivers torsion bars ( Yes I have 2
some were in my garage), I need it for Dream Cruise unvailing of
Frame off
restoration Vin# 00915A, Also looking for A/C - Heat panel, washer
pump, rear 
parking brake pads, rear brake pads, 1 Front grey or silver (paint
doesn't have to 
be perfect )14" wheel. If I think of more I will post on this site. 
If you have any 
of the following please email me or call my cell 313-506-3786 Asap as
I will
have to order or purchase locally these Items soon. 
Your Michigan connection.
Lawrence vin 00538m-00915a






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 22:31:10 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch will not disengage fully

Easy answer.

If the clutch master cylinder was bad the slave cylinder would probably 
be just as wore.

I was told to replace in pairs because if one is shot the other will 
soon follow and that is probably what you are experiencing.

Mark V



On Jul 5, 2005, at 10:23 PM, Jeff Phillips wrote:

> Hi again all, I replaced the leaking clutch master cylinder and all
> was well for about a day.  After driving the car to the next town and
> getting a bite to eat the clutch would not disengage fully.  I drove
> back to Biloxi and went into a casino, when I left an hour later the
> clutch would barely disengage at all, I had a difficult time getting
> her home.  I went ahead and re-bled the clutch and did not find any
> air in the system.  The clutch pedal is as stiff as it always has been
> and I'm seeing atleast 1-1.5" of travel of the clutch fork.  I have an
> adjustable cleavis pin on my new master cylinder and by extending that
> to its maximum distance I was able to improve the situation but not
> enough to eliminate it (I prefer to fix the root cause, not just
> over-compensate for it).  Here is a bit of history.  A new clutch TO
> and pilot bearing, rebuilt clutch disc, stainless clutch line, new
> master and rebuilt slave cylinder went in in '99 by the PO. I replaced
> the master cylinder yesterday.  The clutch does not slip but the TO
> bearing is now making a fair amount of noise.  The clutch fluid bled
> out shows quite a bit of color and bits of deteriorated rubber which I
> assume is coming from the old master cylinder that was in poor
> condition.
>
> How much travel should the clutch fork have to disengage the pressure
> plate?  Aside from the throwout bearing noise my problem seems to
> still be hydraulic.  Is it possible that the slave cylinder is now the
> culprit?  When the slave goes bad does it leak visibly (mine shows no
> external leakage)?
>
> Help me out with this one, I can't seem to get this one solved.
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff
> #10544
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2005 00:08:01 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Large DeLorean Poster wanted

My large DeLorean poster was damaged and I subsequently gave it away. If  
anyone has an extra poster that they could sell me, please email me. The poster  
of the car busting through the magazines, newspapers, etc.
 
Sincerely,
Mike
 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 04:01:20 -0000
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: 'best handling car'

Make sure that if he's ever in Houston, tell him give me some notice
and come by, I'll let him drive a Stage II engine car with the Eibach
spring/shock setup and see what he says...

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1 toll-free help and order line!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Group, 
>  
> Just thought I would share a little compliment I got from a guy the
other  
> day.  I recently hired a younger guy who is really REALLY into sport
 compact 
> tuning. 
(snip)
  Of course he begged to go for a  drive.  Well I normally don't do 
> this but I know he is smart and knows what  he is doing and I had
gotten to 
> know him well enough the last couple weeks so I  gave in and told
him to be back 
> in five minutes.  When he came back he had  the biggest grin on his
face and 
> told me it was the one of the best handling  cars he has ever
driven.  He said 
> it wasn't really underpowered but if it  had just a little more
power it would 
> be even better.  






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 22:26:16 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Help! Door lock problem!

> Here is a new development.  While verifying that the module itself was
> getting power, I also checked the capacitors.  While the system was
> "unlocked", the lock capacitor was holding at 12v, and the unlock capacitor
> was holding at .5v.  When I "locked" the system, the unlock capacitor was
> holding at 12v, and the lock capacitor was holding at .5v.  So when I went
> to unlock, the system responded and unlocked, however now both capacitors
> were holding at .5v.  Obviously, when I went to lock again, there was not
> enough standby power to activate.  The module is getting steady power at
> this time.  I am not an electrician, so I'm not sure why it's taking so long
> for the capacitors (which just got replaced because I thought the old ones
> were shot) to charge again.  They do eventually charge because I am able to
> lock/unlock again after some time.
> 

The problem is definitely in the lock module then. Unfortunately, you
have just moved beyond my realm of expertise - I'm not an electrical
engineer, either - so I'll have to bow out. I see Elvis responded, if
anyone can help you solve this he's your man. He's helped me out on
several occasions with things like this. ;-)

Good luck, and sorry I couldn't be of more help!

-Ryan




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 18:34:18 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Help! Door lock problem!

It's the switches in the doors !

They don't work correctly. Check them, they need adjustment or replacement.

Elvis


Here is a new development.  While verifying that the module itself was
getting power, I also checked the capacitors.  While the system was
"unlocked", the lock capacitor was holding at 12v, and the unlock capacitor
was holding at .5v.  When I "locked" the system, the unlock capacitor was
holding at 12v, and the lock capacitor was holding at .5v.  So when I went
to unlock, the system responded and unlocked, however now both capacitors
were holding at .5v.  Obviously, when I went to lock again, there was not
enough standby power to activate.  The module is getting steady power at
this time.  I am not an electrician, so I'm not sure why it's taking so long
for the capacitors (which just got replaced because I thought the old ones
were shot) to charge again.  They do eventually charge because I am able to
lock/unlock again after some time.

Jace





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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