From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2725
Date: Friday, July 08, 2005 9:51 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: OK, I really screwed up
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>

2. Re: 2005
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

3. Re: OK, I really screwed up
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. WarmUp Issue
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: 2005
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

6. RE: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics - Problem found?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

7. Re: Cooling Problem
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>

8. Re: Sealing transmission
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. re: cooling problem
From: "Mike Cohee" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>

10. Re: 2005
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

11. Re: 2005
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean engine
From: "purewaterted" <purewaterted_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Another fake Ebay auction???
From: "Charlie" <charles_az1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean engine
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

15. Re: Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean engine
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

16. Re: Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

17. building 2005 D
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

19. RE: Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Changing out vacuum hoses ---> Thermal Vacuum Switch -- where exactly is it?
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

21. Re: 2005
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. DOA mags
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Re: Re: Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean engine
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

24. Tachometer Failure
From: "Jason K. Lindelof" <nofear365_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean engine
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 13:13:12 -0500
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>
Subject: Re: OK, I really screwed up

Hi Bernie,

Scotch-Brite pads work well and are sold all over the place - check  
your local hardware store.  You can search the archives for exactly  
what type matches the stainless the best (I think there was a  
discussion on that before).  But in my opinion, Scotch-Brite pads (at  
least, the standard-issue ones for household use) can't compete with  
a blending pad from the vendors.  This pad is much thicker and larger  
than regular Scotch-Brite pads and has a more "gritty" texture.  I  
got one of DMC (Texas)'s stainless care kits long ago, which includes  
a pad and some other cleaning supplies.  It works great.  Wrapping  
the pad around a block sander while brushing can also help with  
results (and keep your fingers from getting a workout).

A near spot-on color match for the louvers is Krylon semi-flat  
black.  It's harder to find than it used to be, but it's good stuff.

Travis Graham
#06344


On Jul 7, 2005, at 12:13 PM, dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com wrote:

> I scratched my roof :( (don't ask), not deep and they should come out
> really easy.  Where can I get the Scotch-Brite pads, and the stainless
> cleaner/polish online?  I really don't have time to run all over town
> looking for this stuff.
>
> Also I need to redo the louver on the back, it's graying and looks
> pretty bad, what do you guy's use.
>
> Thanks,
> Bernie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 18:01:25 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Re: 2005

I'm guessing they are incorporating the new "drive by wire" 
technology? There doesn't seem to be enough room for the steering 
column. Car looks very nice. When are they going into production? Can 
anyone interpret the german that goes with the picture?
Stephen
Vin 3601


> http://hvtm.totalcar.hu/index.php3?ID=9000&carID=2041&s=1
> 
> Ron
> Gullwing Magazine
> www.gullwingmagazine.com







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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 17:20:23 -0000
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: OK, I really screwed up

Try Scotch-Brite(r) heavy duty 223 scour pads - green pads in a 3
pack available at most grocery stores UPC # 51131-50218.

We also use 3M large area medium/coarse sanding sponges - using the 
coarse side for deep scratches UPC 51115-07068. Available at most 
hardware outlets.  Use a bucket of water and do the entire pannel.

Randal "The 3M Guy"
AZ-D Prez
www.az-d.org
5501 














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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 13:50:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: WarmUp Issue

Earlier, I posted on a problem I have been recently
experiencing about my engine "bogging down" when
giving it alot of gas during a cold start.  I bought a
new CPR, and it fixed the problem intermittently.  Let
me go over the tests I just ran.

Started the car cold, gave it a firm amount of gas -
car drove fine.  

Got to a parking lot with the temp needle below the
first unmarked line between 100 and 220 (160 or 180). 
Floored the accelerator, engine tried to bogdown.  

As the temperature gradually moved up, I floored the
accelerator with less and less "bog down".  

Just for kicks, I highly enriched the fuel/air ratio
to get it to "hunt idle" in "N".  Got into "D" (temp
now is just below 220), floored it - car accelerated
perfectly.  

Got out of car, placed mixture back to where it was,
fans came on, floored the accelerator with fans going,
engine ran fine even with the load of the fans on it.

Once fans turned off, floored the accelerator 3-5 more
times and the car accelerated from a dead stop
perfectly.

My conclusion is that I obviously have some kind of a
warm up issue.  I have replaced all major fuel system
components one year ago almost to the day with the
exception of the cold start valve, but that shouldn't
take into effect at all when the engine temp is in the
180-210's.  

The ignition coil has been changed with a blue one
from Houston April 05.  

All "tune up" parts are under a year old, including
oil and fuel filters (just changed last weekend).  

By use of the fuel pressure gauges, I noticed that I
am not holding rest pressure.  It holds for about 7
mins, and than it drops to almost the bare minimum for
a 10 minute fuel pressure check as described in the
workshop manual.  I'm ordering new primary pressure
o-rings (Hot Start Problem Kit #2 on John Hervey's
site), but what else should I be looking for? 

Some sources say this may be ignition related, but I
am very new to how the ignition system works, and I
don't have a solid enough understanding to know how a
faulty ignition component would cause this issue.  If
this is the case, could I have gotten a bad blue coil?
 I have noticed that this problem has only really
reared it's ugly head in two areas:

1.  When I changed the 23 year old blue coil with a
new one from Houston on 4/23/05.

2.  Back in February I change the A/C belt.  I messed
with NOTHING except the "throttle elbows" (one of the
black tubes that is routed underneath the elbows had
become unhooked).  Ever since than, my vehicle had
"auto enriched" itself, and I had to bring the
air/fuel mixture down to get the idle from hunting. 
Everyone here suggest vacuum leaks, which we did find
and repaired, but I have never been able to bring my
air/fuel ratio back to where it was before Feb 2005. 
Keep in mind, that was a half year ago.  I did check
all the connections of everything associated with the
A/C compressor side of the engine, and have found
nothing out of place.  Even the connections at the
"coal canister" are sound and intact.

I know, alot of information, but I'd rather give
everyone too much than too little.  Throw me back your
thoughts, as I would like to get this fixed =P.  Thank
you everyone for your thoughts and time.

Jeremiah
#3299


		
____________________________________________________
Sell on Yahoo! Auctions  no fees. Bid on great items.  
http://auctions.yahoo.com/




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 08:51:46 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: 2005

Sweet. Do you think DMCH would build one for me? ;-)

-Ryan

On 7/7/05, gullwingmag <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I thought the list might enjoy this link...
> 
> http://hvtm.totalcar.hu/index.php3?ID=9000&carID=2041&s=1
> 
> Ron
> Gullwing Magazine
> www.gullwingmagazine.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 14:29:54 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics - Problem found?

Thanks to all for their help here.  I went out and purchased a timing
light and found I had no spark at the coil, much less the plugs - so
apart she came.

While everything "looked fine" I gave up and reinstalled the original
cap and rotor.  According to documentation they only have about 300
miles (and 13 years) on them.  They looked fine.  The only reason I
replaced them at all is that I had already purchased the new ones by the
time I burrowed down to the distributor.

Here's my first bad.  I didn't buy the new cap and rotor from a Delorean
Vendor - I picked up a Volvo cap and rotor (genuine Bosch) from a local
supplier.  They looked so spot on perfect that It never occurred to me
they were not right.  Maybe they are fine - but as soon as I put the old
ones back on I got my spark back and the rpm relay function was
restored.

My next mistake - when I went to clamp down the cap again the bottom
clip (the one you couldn't get a good look at if your life depended on
it) popped off.  The clip is fine, its just not installed on the car
anymore.  I tried for a while to get it back on blind - then I gave up
and used a cable tie around the clip base and two of the plug terminals.
Its very snug for now but not how I wanted to leave it.

So I'm back to where I was - I have spark and gas and believe it will
run fine - have to put coolant back in the engine first to find out
though, and that's still a few hoses away.

Thanks again to all.



> > Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005  15:16:59 -0700
> > From: "Tom Tait"  <TTait_at_dml_B...>
> > Subject: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator  Diagnostics
> >
> > Is there a procedure available to test the signal going to  the
>RMP relay?  Can the relay itself be tested with a 12 VDC power supply 
>or do I need an alternating/pulsing current?
> >
> > Tom Tait  #10902
> >





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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 10:26:12 +0100 (BST)
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Cooling Problem

I had the same problem, but in my 86 Esprit.

I would heat up very quick, cycle the fans randomly
and ran very hot.

I had the radiator cleaned out.  They flushed it out
checked all the waterways were unblocked and the
difference it made was unbelievable.  The car ran 30 F
cooler, everything worked correctly and the cooling
fans switched on and off perfectly.

Maybe worth getting you rad checked out or replaced.

Dan


--- Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> I'm having a cooling problem and need  help with
> trouble shooting & diagnosing...
> 
> Back story...
> Last Fall my alternator belt broke and I almost over
> heated. So I replaced my
> "otterstat" just to be safe. Two different new
> otterstats later my fans would
> still not cycle off properly (outside temps in mid
> to high 60s). I put the
> original back in and all is well.
> 
> Fast forward to this Summer...
> Now my car takes forever to cool back down after the
> fans cycle on at highway
> speeds. This does not happen when traveling on
> surface streets at 25-35mph (it
> cools and cycles rather quickly). At first I thought
> this was due to outside
> temperatures being in the 90s but found out that is
> not always true but plays a
> key role. Why would my car have a hard time cooling
> down at highway speeds
> (65-75mph) than in stop & go traffic?
> 
> Other oddities:
> - running the AC causes my car to run warmer than
> normal. It slowly creeps up to
> around the 220 mark and hovers there.
> - on a recent trip from OH to GA and back I noticed
> my fans would kick on an off
> at different temperatures. It was mostly normal but
> a couple of times not at the
> usual "on" & "off" temps. This makes me think the
> original "otterstat" may be
> bad.
> - even traveling thru the cool of the night I
> noticed at times my the temp to be
> warmer than normal (even at times when I was NOT
> stressing the engine by climbing
> up hills or passing)
> 
> Before the trip I replaced the thermostat and blew
> out 20yrs worth of dirt & dead
> bugs from the original radiator. Also tested the in
> & out temps of the radiator
> and there is a 25 degree difference. My car has the
> self bleeding kit installed. 
> 
> Tonight I am going to try a different "otterstat"
> (98-93 degree). This time I
> hope my fans will cycle off. If they do not is there
> anything else I can try? 
> 
> Toby, how's that new adjustable "otterstat" project
> coming? Do you think that
> could solve my problems?
> 
> Any other things that could be causing this that I
> could look into?
> Thanks in advance to any and all help.
> 
> Shannon Y
> 16506
> 
> 
> 		
> ____________________________________________________
> Sell on Yahoo! Auctions  no fees. Bid on great
> items.  
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 





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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 18:43:02 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Sealing transmission

I'd strongly recommend Permatex Anerobic Gasket Maker rather than 
Hylomar for the non-gasketed surface. I've rebuilt several 
transmissions now and the only leaky one was sealed with Hylomar (based 
on some erroneous advice). I use a spray sealer (Permatex Aerosol) on 
the paper gaskets although the factory left them dry. No runs, no 
drips, no errors......

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Guys if you've read my previous posts you know I had big problems 
with 
> my manual transmission. I'm in the process of putting it back 
together 
> but need to know: Should I put any hylomar sealant on the paper 
> gaskets? 






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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 14:42:53 -0400
From: "Mike Cohee" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: re: cooling problem

Shannon,
Sounds like you already have lots of places to check but also double check
for trapped air in the radiator. Carefully pull bleed hose near passenger
side of radiator and you may get a large sucking sound of air being pushed
out. Several owners have emailed about this problem off lit and this solved
their problem. If your system has no trapped air then I would agree your
radiator is clogged. We can swap it out at the Pitt session in Aug. :-)

Good luck
Mike C
2109 







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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 20:27:31 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: 2005

Here is the translation for those that don't speak Hungarian:

"Published here, the first photo of the 2005 Delorean! As you can 
see, much is inherited from the previous design, among others the 
unpainted aluminum bodywork. The profile is sporty, and the motor 
turned up in the back so it's easier to hook up the flux capacitor! 
With this there will be no problem reaching 88 MPH speeds. Allegedly 
Back to the Future 4 will feature this vehicle, and we will soon see 
changes to the characters in the film as well." 

(I never thought I would combine my Hungarian language skills with 
my Delorean hobby...) 


Sandor
# 3002


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gullwingmag" <gullwing-
magazine_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> I thought the list might enjoy this link...
> 
> http://hvtm.totalcar.hu/index.php3?ID=9000&carID=2041&s=1
> 
> Ron
> Gullwing Magazine
> www.gullwingmagazine.com






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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 17:25:24 -0000
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 2005

OK Ken here is your challenge get this car at PF in Chicago next year :)

Randal





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:
> I thought the list might enjoy this link...
> 
> http://hvtm.totalcar.hu/index.php3?ID=9000&carID=2041&s=1
> 
> Ron
> Gullwing Magazine
> www.gullwingmagazine.com






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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 00:36:01 -0000
From: "purewaterted" <purewaterted_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean engine

I recently purchased a '81 Delorean S/N 000996. After paying for it I 
was informed the seller found water in the crankcase. He assured me he 
would make everything "right" before delivering the car to me. I've 
been in the long distance trucking business for a long time and water 
in the base usually means trouble. This car has been parked for over 15 
years and required a new fuel pump to get it started and it still runs 
rough. Has anyone out there had experience with this problem? Where 
should I begin to look?
Thanks 
Ted Campbell
email pure-water_at_dml_telus.net






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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 22:04:21 -0000
From: "Charlie" <charles_az1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Another fake Ebay auction???

Im glad you guys are checking these out and making sure..  the link 
doesnt work but was this one where you had to call to bid first???

Charlie
Looking for a D.
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> Ebay just removed the item from auction. Guess we were right again!
> 
> Thomas
> VIN: 2953
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> > I checked this vin # out on carfax and they list it as 
an "invalid 
> vin 
> > #"
> > 
> > -Derek
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "conundrum1984" 
<jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> 
> > wrote:
> > > Doex this look like another fake Ebay auction?
> > > 
> > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> > > ViewItem&rd=1&item=4560534832&category=31830&sspagename=WDVW
> > > 
> > > Thomas
> > > VIN:2953






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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 00:56:15 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean engine

Was the oil changed before the car was started?  The water could
be 15 years of condensation.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "purewaterted" <purewaterted_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> I recently purchased a '81 Delorean S/N 000996. After paying for it I 
> was informed the seller found water in the crankcase. He assured me he 
> would make everything "right" before delivering the car to me. I've 
> been in the long distance trucking business for a long time and water 
> in the base usually means trouble. This car has been parked for over 15 
> years and required a new fuel pump to get it started and it still runs 
> rough. Has anyone out there had experience with this problem? Where 
> should I begin to look? 
> Thanks 
> Ted Campbell 
> email pure-water_at_dml_telus.net 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 01:00:18 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean engine

I'll tell you one thing I'd check.  Pull out the oil filler cap and
see if there's a plastic screen in the valve cover itself (not in the
cap).  If it is there, then I would assume your water problem is
either just moisture from sitting for so long, or a head gasket.  

If there is NOT a plastic screen in the valve cover, then the motor
must have been overheated pretty badly at some point.  I don't know
what the best advice would be in this case.  Even if you'd replace the
head gaskets, the heads and/or block may be warped.  I actually had a
cracked head along with the missing plastic screen.

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "purewaterted" <purewaterted_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I recently purchased a '81 Delorean S/N 000996. After paying for it I 
> was informed the seller found water in the crankcase. He assured me he 
> would make everything "right" before delivering the car to me. I've 
> been in the long distance trucking business for a long time and water 
> in the base usually means trouble. This car has been parked for over 15 
> years and required a new fuel pump to get it started and it still runs 
> rough. Has anyone out there had experience with this problem? Where 
> should I begin to look?
> Thanks 
> Ted Campbell
> email pure-water_at_dml_t...






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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 20:48:34 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...

I would be interested to know if there is a way, but I don't think you can 
disassemble the harness/plug.
I just dipped the plug into vinegar for a few minutes and then attacked it 
as best I could with a steel brush, per Warren's advice. I then used the 
damp brush on the other end of things.
It seemed to help quite a bit, tooling around last weekend. But I haven't 
driven it much-- that's tomorrow and Saturday, weather permitting.
-Kevin
#4687

On 7/6/05, Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> Can anyone tell me how to pop out the electrical connector pins on the
> Idle Speed Regulator (the harness side). I was in the process of
> cleaning the electrical contacts and cannot get at the harness side
> connector contacts well enough.
> 
> I am also in need of replacing the bootie for the connector. Anybody
> know where to get one? I didn't see a part pointed out in parts manual.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne / VIN#2447
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com <http://www.dmcnews.com>
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
-Kevin


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 21:52:04 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: building 2005 D

Anyone want to build it 
I have the mechanical parts 

Anyone good at metal work 
its buildable.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 22:04:57 -0500
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...

I think most of these plug can come apart.  I just don't want to take 
the chance that this is one of those that doesn't and mess up a 
connection.  Sometimes there is a tool that can be used to push the 
spring clip down that typically retains the pin connector in the plug.

I think I might try the vinegar/scrub method.  Thanks!

-Wayne / VIN#2447

kjc wrote:

>I would be interested to know if there is a way, but I don't think you can 
>disassemble the harness/plug.
>I just dipped the plug into vinegar for a few minutes and then attacked it 
>as best I could with a steel brush, per Warren's advice. I then used the 
>damp brush on the other end of things.
>It seemed to help quite a bit, tooling around last weekend. But I haven't 
>driven it much-- that's tomorrow and Saturday, weather permitting.
>-Kevin
>#4687
>
>On 7/6/05, Wayne Wagner <> wrote:
>  
>
>>Can anyone tell me how to pop out the electrical connector pins on the
>>Idle Speed Regulator (the harness side). I was in the process of
>>cleaning the electrical contacts and cannot get at the harness side
>>connector contacts well enough.
>>
>>I am also in need of replacing the bootie for the connector. Anybody
>>know where to get one? I didn't see a part pointed out in parts manual.
>>
>>Thanks.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Wayne / VIN#2447
>>
>>    
>>




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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 22:01:27 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...

Removing the pins out of the connectors is difficult unless you either have
a tool or make one. The boot would have to come off also. I have the boots
on the web site.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Wayne Wagner
Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 9:38 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...


Can anyone tell me how to pop out the electrical connector pins on the
Idle Speed Regulator (the harness side).  I was in the process of
cleaning the electrical contacts and cannot get at the harness side
connector contacts well enough.

I am also in need of replacing the bootie for the connector.  Anybody
know where to get one?  I didn't see a part pointed out in parts manual.

Thanks.

Regards,
Wayne / VIN#2447





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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 23:31:04 -0500
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Changing out vacuum hoses ---> Thermal Vacuum Switch -- where exactly is it?

After seeing the state of some of the vacuum hoses when trying to hunt 
down a vacuum leak, I decided it was time to replace them.

Got around to changing most of the hoses today with the kit from 
SpecialTauto, and when I got to the Tee that joins the constant pressure 
regulator to the Thermal Vacuum Switch..... I find another Tee further 
along the path!

I don't know why the system was mis-"hosed" the way I found it.  What I 
see is a vacuum hose from manifold to a Tee that supplies vacuum to the 
Vacuum Advance solenoid switch and the pressure regulator. 
Apparently the Thermal Vacuum Switch is totally bypassed, and I am not 
sure how deep I am supposed to dig to see it.  I have an idea where it 
supposed to approximately be from the manual, but I still cannot see 
it.  Any tips?

Also, are there any negative aspects to running vacuum to the fuel 
pressure regulator all the time?  From what I understand... the Thermal 
Vacuum Switch should cut out vacuum to the pressure regulator when the 
engine is above +40C.

Thanks!

-Wayne / VIN#2447




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 01:58:46 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 2005

Actually, it looks like someone just photoshop'd (or gimp'd) an image
of a Lamborghini Diablo:

http://tinyurl.com/bze5s

Lamborghini seems to be able to fit some kind of steering system in
the car...

Aaron
#1506

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> I'm guessing they are incorporating the new "drive by wire" 
> technology? There doesn't seem to be enough room for the steering 
> column. Car looks very nice. When are they going into production? Can 
> anyone interpret the german that goes with the picture?
> Stephen
> Vin 3601
> 
> 
> > http://hvtm.totalcar.hu/index.php3?ID=9000&carID=2041&s=1
> > 
> > Ron
> > Gullwing Magazine
> > www.gullwingmagazine.com






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 08:42:21 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DOA mags



Has anybody who recently joined the doa received the backissues yet?
-alex






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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 22:00:43 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean engine

I seen a new unstarted engine at DMCH with out this part in it.

I dont know if they all came that way or not.

Mark V



On Jul 7, 2005, at 8:00 PM, Matt Spittle wrote:

> I'll tell you one thing I'd check.  Pull out the oil filler cap and
> see if there's a plastic screen in the valve cover itself (not in the
> cap).  If it is there, then I would assume your water problem is
> either just moisture from sitting for so long, or a head gasket.
>
> If there is NOT a plastic screen in the valve cover, then the motor
> must have been overheated pretty badly at some point.  I don't know
> what the best advice would be in this case.  Even if you'd replace the
> head gaskets, the heads and/or block may be warped.  I actually had a
> cracked head along with the missing plastic screen.
>
> Matt
> #1604
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "purewaterted" <purewaterted_at_dml_y...> 
> wrote:
>> I recently purchased a '81 Delorean S/N 000996. After paying for it I
>> was informed the seller found water in the crankcase. He assured me he
>> would make everything "right" before delivering the car to me. I've
>> been in the long distance trucking business for a long time and water
>> in the base usually means trouble. This car has been parked for over 
>> 15
>> years and required a new fuel pump to get it started and it still runs
>> rough. Has anyone out there had experience with this problem? Where
>> should I begin to look?
>> Thanks
>> Ted Campbell
>> email pure-water_at_dml_t...
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 12:07:32 -0000
From: "Jason K. Lindelof" <nofear365_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Tachometer Failure

Hey everyone. A few months back I purchased my first DeLorean.  
Everything works great except for the Tach.  When I put the key in, the 
tach will fall to 0, I start the car and the tach stays still. If I rev 
the engine, nothing happens.  The needle stays stationary.  When I turn 
the car off, it'll jump to 2000 or so (common from what I've seen).  
The only time the tach wakes up is when I'm at around 3000 rpm (I'm 
guessing here) and the tach will run to the redline.  When I shift, the 
tach goes back to 0 until I get back to around 3000 rpm or so.  

Any thoughts?  Time for a new tach?  

Thanks
Ja






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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 02:12:04 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean engine

I purchased an 81 D about 6 weeks ago.  I replaced the fuel pump, along with 
the fuel filter, oil filter, fluids etc. etc..  My car sat outside for three 
years.  I got it running, rough running it was.  The head gaskets were 
leaking (but I couldn't tell) and I blew them out totally on my test run. 
Found out one of the heads was warped and craked. However, it still ran, but 
rough.  Just like it did when I first got it up and running.  So I guess my 
point is; If it has a ton of miles on it, replace the engine. That's what 
I'm going to do.  Anyway, that's my 2 cents.

Lingo #2034


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "purewaterted" <purewaterted_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 7:36 PM
Subject: [DML] Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean engine


>I recently purchased a '81 Delorean S/N 000996. After paying for it I
> was informed the seller found water in the crankcase. He assured me he
> would make everything "right" before delivering the car to me. I've
> been in the long distance trucking business for a long time and water
> in the base usually means trouble. This car has been parked for over 15
> years and required a new fuel pump to get it started and it still runs
> rough. Has anyone out there had experience with this problem? Where
> should I begin to look?
> Thanks
> Ted Campbell
> email pure-water_at_dml_telus.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> 





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