From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2727
Date: Saturday, July 09, 2005 9:49 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

2. Re: 2005
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

3. RE: DOA mags
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. RE: Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. RE: Wacky Tach
From: "Travis Goodwin" <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

6. Re: Wacky Tach
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. RE: Delorean engine
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. RE: Tachometer Failure
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. RE: Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. RE: Changing out vacuum hoses ---> Thermal Vacuum Switch -- where exactly is it?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. Re: Re: DeLorean Owners Association
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

12. Re: Wacky Tach
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

13. New DMCH seat covers
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

14. Tachometer Failure
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

15. Car Show - British Cars with Italian Bodies
From: David Cox <DMCox_at_dml_delorean.com>

16. Door Bang/Snap
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

17. Re: Re: To all Maryland DMC Owners
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Re: 2005
From: Mike Green <mikedx_at_dml_gmail.com>

19. building 2005 D
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

20. Re: Door Bang/Snap
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Tachometer Failure
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics - Problem found?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: Sealing transmission
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: OK, I really screwed up
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Door Weather Stripping
From: "Scot Stern" <Scotstern_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 12:31:11 -0500
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...

Cool!  Thanks for this tip Phil...

-Wayne / VIN#2447

Phil Priestley wrote:

>To clean mine I used a tiny cylindrical wire brush that came in my  
>kit of Dremel tools. I just chucked it in the dremel and cleaned the  
>connectors in the plug. The idle speed motor was new so I didnt worry  
>about cleaning in there.
>Phil Priestley
>
>Vin 2105
>IN FLUX
>
>http://alessandros120.com/
>(503)370-9951
>1(866)225-7985
>
>
>  
>
>>I am surprised no one has come up with a small brush
>>(like a mini battery terminal brush) that can get in
>>there and clean both the pin and the receptacle.
>>
>>
>>--- John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>    
>>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>  
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 17:06:46 -0000
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: 2005

It looks a lot to me like a heavily Photoshoped Lamborghini.  Still very nice looking, and it 
keeps enough of the D's heritage.  I really love the large turbine rims and the low profile 
tires.

-Patrick C.
1880




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> OK Ken here is your challenge get this car at PF in Chicago next year :)
> 
> Randal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_s...> 
> wrote:
> > I thought the list might enjoy this link...
> > 
> > http://hvtm.totalcar.hu/index.php3?ID=9000&carID=2041&s=1
> > 
> > Ron
> > Gullwing Magazine
> > www.gullwingmagazine.com






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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 14:15:01 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: DOA mags

Nope, still waiting and I was one of the first to do it.
- VB

>From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] DOA mags
>Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 08:42:21 +0000
>
>
>
>Has anybody who recently joined the doa received the backissues yet?
>-alex




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 15:16:25 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...

Wayne, I have never had to remove the pins to clean them. Normally, if you
take some contact cleaner and spray all the grease and dirt off the contacts
they have a normal wiping action that will clean themselves as the plug is
being inserted. You may want to do it a time or to.
John


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Wayne Wagner
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 11:30 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...


Thanks John.  I'll look into the boots... I found a couple of them I'd
like to replace for the sake of rainproofing.

-Wayne / VIN#2447

John Hervey wrote:

>Removing the pins out of the connectors is difficult unless you either have
>a tool or make one. The boot would have to come off also. I have the boots
>on the web site.
>John Hervey
>www.specialtauto.com
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
>Of Wayne Wagner
>Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 9:38 PM
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...
>
>
>Can anyone tell me how to pop out the electrical connector pins on the
>Idle Speed Regulator (the harness side).  I was in the process of
>cleaning the electrical contacts and cannot get at the harness side
>connector contacts well enough.
>
>I am also in need of replacing the bootie for the connector.  Anybody
>know where to get one?  I didn't see a part pointed out in parts manual.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Regards,
>Wayne / VIN#2447
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
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>






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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 16:18:23 -0400
From: "Travis Goodwin" <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Wacky Tach

It's funny. I posted a similar problem with the indentical subject. Mine
turned out to be the electrical connector in the back of the tach was
loose and caused it to make random contact.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of ironranger7012
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 12:34 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Wacky Tach

I posted this message a couple of weeks ago with no response.  After 
just reading Jasons message about his tach going past redline may be 
our problems are similar.
In my case the tach reads ok at idle to about 2.5k and then starts 
going wild.  At about 65mph the reading is about 5k and wavering +/- 
200 rpm.  The original tach did the same until it went around and the 
needle just pointed down and waved a little while the engine was 
running. I bought a new tach but it does the same as the first but at 
about 1k less rpm.  I have just put up with it but I don't want this 
to go over the top and have to buy a new tach again.  I was thinking 
it may be the ground for the tach but I'm feeling too old to maneuver 
under the dash anymore for something that may or may not be my problem.
I hope someone else out there has a cure for this and/or Jasons.

Vic
7012 






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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 21:21:16 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Wacky Tach

Check your battery terminals are tight. Mine did this and that was the 
problem

Martin

ironranger7012 wrote:

>I posted this message a couple of weeks ago with no response.  After 
>just reading Jasons message about his tach going past redline may be 
>our problems are similar.
>In my case the tach reads ok at idle to about 2.5k and then starts 
>going wild.  At about 65mph the reading is about 5k and wavering +/- 
>200 rpm.  The original tach did the same until it went around and the 
>needle just pointed down and waved a little while the engine was 
>running. I bought a new tach but it does the same as the first but at 
>about 1k less rpm.  I have just put up with it but I don't want this 
>to go over the top and have to buy a new tach again.  I was thinking 
>it may be the ground for the tach but I'm feeling too old to maneuver 
>under the dash anymore for something that may or may not be my problem.
>I hope someone else out there has a cure for this and/or Jasons.
>
>Vic
>7012 
>  
>





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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 15:25:54 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Delorean engine

If anyone is going to replace the engine, I will buy the old one.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Robert Lingo
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 1:12 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean
engine


I purchased an 81 D about 6 weeks ago.  I replaced the fuel pump, along with
the fuel filter, oil filter, fluids etc. etc..  My car sat outside for three
years.  I got it running, rough running it was.  The head gaskets were
leaking (but I couldn't tell) and I blew them out totally on my test run.
Found out one of the heads was warped and craked. However, it still ran, but
rough.  Just like it did when I first got it up and running.  So I guess my
point is; If it has a ton of miles on it, replace the engine. That's what
I'm going to do.  Anyway, that's my 2 cents.

Lingo #2034


----- Original Message -----
From: "purewaterted" <purewaterted_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 7:36 PM
Subject: [DML] Water in crankcase of Ted Campbells '81 Delorean engine


>I recently purchased a '81 Delorean S/N 000996. After paying for it I
> was informed the seller found water in the crankcase. He assured me he
> would make everything "right" before delivering the car to me. I've
> been in the long distance trucking business for a long time and water
> in the base usually means trouble. This car has been parked for over 15
> years and required a new fuel pump to get it started and it still runs
> rough. Has anyone out there had experience with this problem? Where
> should I begin to look?
> Thanks
> Ted Campbell
> email pure-water_at_dml_telus.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 15:28:05 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Tachometer Failure

Jason, If the tack is moving I would think that the movement is ok and the
problem would be a connection somewhere in the wires as Dave mentioned.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Jason K. Lindelof
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 6:08 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Tachometer Failure


Hey everyone. A few months back I purchased my first DeLorean.
Everything works great except for the Tach.  When I put the key in, the
tach will fall to 0, I start the car and the tach stays still. If I rev
the engine, nothing happens.  The needle stays stationary.  When I turn
the car off, it'll jump to 2000 or so (common from what I've seen).
The only time the tach wakes up is when I'm at around 3000 rpm (I'm
guessing here) and the tach will run to the redline.  When I shift, the
tach goes back to 0 until I get back to around 3000 rpm or so.

Any thoughts?  Time for a new tach?

Thanks
Ja






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 15:22:25 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...

Contacts normally are plated with silver to prevent rust and corrosion and
to have a better conductivity. As I answered Wayne back, I normally just
clean off the dirt and grease with contact cleaner and re-insert the
connector a time or to. The wiping action of them going back together a time
or 2 will resurface the contacts and normally won't scrape off the silver
plating. I don't use any kind of a wire brush, but a pipe cleaner would be
ok if you don't want to scrape off the silver.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Wayne Wagner
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 11:31 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Removing Electrical Contacts from connectors...


Cool!  Thanks for this tip Phil...

-Wayne / VIN#2447

Phil Priestley wrote:

>To clean mine I used a tiny cylindrical wire brush that came in my
>kit of Dremel tools. I just chucked it in the dremel and cleaned the
>connectors in the plug. The idle speed motor was new so I didnt worry
>about cleaning in there.
>Phil Priestley
>
>Vin 2105
>IN FLUX
>
>http://alessandros120.com/
>(503)370-9951
>1(866)225-7985
>
>
>
>
>>I am surprised no one has come up with a small brush
>>(like a mini battery terminal brush) that can get in
>>there and clean both the pin and the receptacle.
>>
>>
>>--- John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 15:31:30 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Changing out vacuum hoses ---> Thermal Vacuum Switch -- where exactly is it?

Wayne,
If the instructions with the kit are not the same as the car then someone
may have done some kid of modification to the vac system.
Call me if needed.
John Hervey
972-564-9321




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Wayne Wagner
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 10:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Changing out vacuum hoses ---> Thermal Vacuum Switch --
where exactly is it?


After seeing the state of some of the vacuum hoses when trying to hunt
down a vacuum leak, I decided it was time to replace them.

Got around to changing most of the hoses today with the kit from
SpecialTauto, and when I got to the Tee that joins the constant pressure
regulator to the Thermal Vacuum Switch..... I find another Tee further
along the path!

I don't know why the system was mis-"hosed" the way I found it.  What I
see is a vacuum hose from manifold to a Tee that supplies vacuum to the
Vacuum Advance solenoid switch and the pressure regulator.
Apparently the Thermal Vacuum Switch is totally bypassed, and I am not
sure how deep I am supposed to dig to see it.  I have an idea where it
supposed to approximately be from the manual, but I still cannot see
it.  Any tips?

Also, are there any negative aspects to running vacuum to the fuel
pressure regulator all the time?  From what I understand... the Thermal
Vacuum Switch should cut out vacuum to the pressure regulator when the
engine is above +40C.

Thanks!

-Wayne / VIN#2447




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 10:17:58 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Owners Association

I have nothing else to add to this issue, but wanted to back Robert up
here. The DOA became an elitist club a long time ago and I don't see
any changes, either. They need to apologize for the wrongs of the past
and open up to the community. While Tony's posts seemed to be
extending an olive branch, so to speak, they didn't address past
issues and, as Robert said, didn't acknowledge the world beyond the
DOA's little doorstep.

The proof is in the pudding, folks. When and if the DOA really changes
it will be glaringly obvious. Right now, it looks like they're simply
running out of money and need our help to continue their elitist BS. I
won't be a part of that.

-Ryan

On 7/6/05, therealdmcvegas <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net> wrote:
> Sometime around 1996, I got to be quite interested in buying a
> DeLorean. Well, actually, obsessed would be a more correct word. In
> that time, I had planned on not only getting the car, but believed
> that joining the DOA was to be high priority as well. And later on
> down the road is where trouble began to start. In the past, I've had
> many run-ins with DOA board-members, mostly through e-mail. Such as
> when I was told that if I was not happy with the state of the DOA,
> that I could come down to the Peterson museum, and voice my complaints
> directly to the directors. 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 20:49:23 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Wacky Tach

Vic and Jason - One of our local club members had a variety 
of "interesting behaviors" with dash instruments, including his 
tachometer.  He found a loose or poor ground connection at a ground 
collector terminal that is located behind the vertical carpeted panel 
that is above and aft of the parcel shelf.  If you remove that carpeted 
panel, the ground collector stud (1/4 inch diameter) is facing 
fore/aft, is just above the relay compartment, and has several black 
wires attached to it.  I believe that most of the dash is ultimately 
grounded through this stud.  I would recommend cleaning each wire 
terminal individually, and then tighten everything back up with some 
dielectric grease applied.  Let the List know if this helps.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ironranger7012" <kvlauhala_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I posted this message a couple of weeks ago with no response.  After 
> just reading Jasons message about his tach going past redline may be 
> our problems are similar.
> In my case the tach reads ok at idle to about 2.5k and then starts 
> going wild.  At about 65mph the reading is about 5k and wavering +/- 
> 200 rpm.  The original tach did the same until it went around and the 
> needle just pointed down and waved a little while the engine was 
> running. I bought a new tach but it does the same as the first but at 
> about 1k less rpm.  I have just put up with it but I don't want this 
> to go over the top and have to buy a new tach again.  I was thinking 
> it may be the ground for the tach but I'm feeling too old to maneuver 
> under the dash anymore for something that may or may not be my 
problem.
> I hope someone else out there has a cure for this and/or Jasons.
> 
> Vic
> 7012






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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 22:47:07 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: New DMCH seat covers

Hi James,
Would you have any pictures of the new seat covers installed in a car? I am interested in them, but I am not sure how they would look in the car. My interior is black, so if you have any pics with the seats in a black interior car, that would be great.
 
Thanks
Thomas Mc Auley
Vin #4087

		
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger NEW - crystal clear PC to PCcalling worldwide with voicemail

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 18:10:51 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Tachometer Failure

 
 
Jason,
 
It sound to me like a bad tach or bad  connection.
 
I would trace the wire going to the tach under the  dashboard (WS white with 
slate) if you can and tap into it connecting any  automotive tach to there and 
see what you get.
 
I say try to find the wire because I once tried and  could never find it 
myself.
 
You may have to take off the binnacle, at which point  you will be able to 
not only get to the tach wire but will also be able to make  sure the connection 
to the "PC Board" is clean, then retest  it.
 
D & 6530
Dave  Delman




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 15:37:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Cox <DMCox_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Car Show - British Cars with Italian Bodies

I just got some information about this car show in Ventura, CA in 2 weeks:

C E N T R A L   C O A S T   B R I T I S H   C A R   M E E T

The 15th Annual Central Coast British Car Meet will  be held
at the  Channel Islands Harbor in Oxnard, CA July 24, 2005 ~
9:00 am to 3:00 pm  (doors open at 8:30 am)

This years theme will be "British Cars with Italian  Body's"

Info can be found at http://www.ccbcc.org/

Doesn't this sound like a perfect theme for a Delorean?  It's a bit far for me, but I'm of going anyway.  Anyone else interested?

Dave
vin 16367


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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 17:45:31 -0500
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Door Bang/Snap

        Hi all. I have a new one that I have a feeling I'm not going to be too excited 
about. I just got done washing my car and was almost done drying it when I 
lifted the drivers side door and got a mix between a loud bang and snap noise.
It sounded like it had quite a bit of force on it when it let go. First thing that came
to mind was torsion bar and cracked rear glass. Neither. I went over to the 
passenger side door and tried to open it and it wouldn't. I thought maybe it had
locked ir something. Wrong again. It just won't lift. What could've happened? If
it was the torsion bar it would still open right? Just be heavier.  Any ideas?  Thanks
in advance.......................Jason #5903

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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 15:18:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: To all Maryland DMC Owners

Hi John,
Your email really caught my attention because I live
in Md (Annapolis) and have been putting off getting
plates for my Delorean because it won't pass
inspection yet.  So if I apply for historic plates in
Maryland, I don't even need to get it inspected?

Thanks,
Mike

--- John Macias <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> I assume you are getting it inspected because you
> got regular plates, 
> and not historic? I got the historic plates because
> I did not plan on 
> using it as an everyday driver, only on the
> weekends. It's cheaper, 
> and no inspection needed. Cheers.
> 
> john
> #7009
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie"
> <bmanderville_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> > HELP!  I need to get the car state inspected and
> can't find anyone 
> to 
> > do it.  Who did you have do your inspection?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Bernie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 



		
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Sell on Yahoo! Auctions  no fees. Bid on great items.  
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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 21:47:16 +0100
From: Mike Green <mikedx_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: 2005

actually if you look at the bigger pic it becomes obvious that it isnt
even a good photo-shop job...

http://hvtm.totalcar.hu/car/l/delorean/666632.jpg

so whos going to buy the lamborghini and mod it??

On 7/8/05, Patrick C. <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> It looks a lot to me like a heavily Photoshoped Lamborghini.  Still very nice looking, and it
> keeps enough of the D's heritage.  I really love the large turbine rims and the low profile
> tires.
> 
> -Patrick C.
> 1880
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > OK Ken here is your challenge get this car at PF in Chicago next year :)
> >
> > Randal
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_s...>
> > wrote:
> > > I thought the list might enjoy this link...
> > >
> > > http://hvtm.totalcar.hu/index.php3?ID=9000&carID=2041&s=1
> > >
> > > Ron
> > > Gullwing Magazine
> > > www.gullwingmagazine.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
------------------------------------
Mike Green
Software architect
DOC 427
MSN: mikeyturbouk_at_dml_hotmail.com




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 13:08:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: building 2005 D

I love my car and its 130 HP PRV but this car obviously needs something with a lot more get-up-and-go!

I'd like to put in my order for one right now. Or maybe this could be a Delorean challenge that Jesse James and Monster Garage might actually have some enthusiasm for! I've seen Jesse shape plenty of metal I'm sure he could pound out the body panels.

Dan Haney
vin 3254



Ken Wrote:

>Message: 17        
>   Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 21:52:04 EDT
>   From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
>Subject: building 2005 D
>
>Anyone want to build it 
>I have the mechanical parts 
>
>Anyone good at metal work 
>its buildable.

>Ken




________________________________________
PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 19:46:10 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Door Bang/Snap

 
In a message dated 7/8/2005 6:18:25 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
rowejj_at_dml_tds.net writes:

Hi all.  I have a new one that I have a feeling I'm not going to be too 
excited  
about. I just got done washing my car and was almost done drying it when I  
lifted the drivers side door and got a mix between a loud bang and snap  
noise.
It sounded like it had quite a bit of force on it when it let go.  First 
thing that came
to mind was torsion bar and cracked rear glass.  Neither. I went over to the 
passenger side door and tried to open it and  it wouldn't. I thought maybe it 
had
locked ir something. Wrong again. It  just won't lift. What could've 
happened? If
it was the torsion bar it would  still open right? Just be heavier.  Any 
ideas?  Thanks
in  advance.......................Jason #5903


Jason,
 
Does the driver's side door show any signs of damage? Does it work  properly?
Does the passenger side door open at ALL? what exactly happens when you try  
to open it.
 
Lift the rear louvers and take out the three screws that hold the upper  
window trim/grill in.  The upper part is held in by tabs on the  T-panel.  Take a 
pliers or screwdriver and bend them out so you can remove  the grill piece.  
You can now see the ends of the torsion bars.  Are  either of the mounts spun? 
Is there is a chip or crack in the glass up  there?
 
Andy


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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2005 03:05:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Tachometer Failure

Weird behavoir like this usually indicates a bad conection somehere. 
The usual culptits are the ground connections but with the dash the 
point the plugs go into the flexible printed circuits can also cause 
problems. Also the places where the tach connects to the flexible 
circuit. It wil generaly mean taking EVERYTHING apart and cleaning 
testing all connections.
Daid Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
>  
>  
> Jason,
>  
> It sound to me like a bad tach or bad  connection.
>  
>






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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2005 03:09:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: RPM Relay/ECM/Pulse generator Diagnostics - Problem found?

If you do not get any spark out of the ignition coil nothing you do 
with the cap or rotor will have any effect. You MUST have spark coming 
out of the coil before going any further. Check again for continuity 
from the ECU plug to the impulse coil.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
> Thanks to all for their help here.  I went out and purchased a timing
> light and found I had no spark at the coil, much less the plugs - so
> apart she came.
> 
> 






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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2005 03:11:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Sealing transmission

I have to agree with Dave S. Every box I have done with Hylomar 
leaks. I guess this is why Jaguars leak all over the road! Do not 
use any paper gaskets, it will affect clearances. A good silicone 
sealer is all you need.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I'd strongly recommend Permatex Anerobic Gasket Maker rather than 
> Hylomar for the non-gasketed surface. I've rebuilt several 
> transmissions now and the only leaky one was sealed with Hylomar 
(based 
> on some erroneous advice). I use a spray sealer (Permatex Aerosol) 
on 
> the paper gaskets although the factory left them dry. No runs, no 
> drips, no errors......
> 
> Dave Swingle
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> 
wrote:
> > Guys if you've read my previous posts you know I had big 
problems 
> with 
> > my manual transmission. I'm in the process of putting it back 
> together 
> > but need to know: Should I put any hylomar sealant on the paper 
> > gaskets?







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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2005 03:14:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: OK, I really screwed up

You may need to go over the scratches with 80# sandpaper first and 
finish with a blending pad. You may as well patronize your faovite 
vender instead of ordering anywhere else. Pick up an extra oil filter 
too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I scratched my roof :( (don't ask), not deep and they should come 
out 
> really easy.  Where can I get the Scotch-Brite pads, and the 
stainless 
> cleaner/polish online?  I really don't have time to run all over 
town 
> looking for this stuff.
> 
> Also I need to redo the louver on the back, it's graying and looks 
> pretty bad, what do you guy's use.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bernie







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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 23:43:46 -0000
From: "Scot Stern" <Scotstern_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Door Weather Stripping

I have a question that I have not seen the answer to yet in the 
forum.  I have 1981 #6492 and I was planning on going down to a 
cruise night tonight to meet #6453.  We both live in the same city 
and he has been asking to see the car.  It would be interesting to 
know a bit more about the history of both cars so I thought it might 
be fun.

Anyway, I cleaned up the car a bit, which was not a problem as it 
only has 12,132 miles on it, and I decided to finally change the 
weather stripping on the bottom of the door.  Mine is OK but it did 
have a little nick in the driver's side so I ordered new ones quite a 
while ago.

Anyway, I took off the old ones and I noticed that the new one does 
not go on the same way.  The old one had the rubber piece facing the 
outside of the door and then a channel where you secure it to the 
bottom of the door.  The new one mounts in such a way as the channel 
is facing the outside and then the rubber piece is facing the 
inside.  The are effectively the opposite of each other.

Now, the simple solution that will come to mind is to reverse them 
and use the other side on the driver's door and then they will work.  
Wrong!  Both sides on the new ones are the same in that they have the 
rubber facing the inside and both of the originals have the rubber 
facing the outside.

I guess it really would not make much of a difference except that 
when you open the door, you now see a channel and the securing screws 
and on the old one, you saw the piece of rubber and no screws.  I 
kind of think that the originals looked better than the replacements 
but I am wondering which is correct.

My question is simple.  Which way is correct and why did mine face 
the outside when the new ones face the inside?  Both parts are 
similar although not the same.  I bought them from Houston and, while 
they are different than the ones that were on the car, they certainly 
fit.

Your help please...

Scot Stern
6452







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