Subject:
[DML] Digest Number 2740
From:
dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:
15 Jul 2005 16:11:56 -0000
To:

dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 26 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Air conditioning switch problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: How do you change the anti-freeze fluid in the Delorean?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. Re: How do you change the anti-freeze fluid in the Delorean?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. RE: Relay clicking with my AC on.
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. RE: My DMC Joe Experience
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywaters_at_dml_bellsouth.net>

6. RE: Relay clicking with my AC on.
From: "timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com>

7. Re: My DMC Joe Experience
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Thermostat
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com

9. RE: Steering Column Rattle
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. FV troubles?
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. RE: Amplifiers.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. Re: Spoke too soon! - Thanks for tips on brake job.
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

13. Re: My DMC Joe Experience
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: 'Back to the Future' summer screenings schedule
From: "BTTF.com" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>

15. Delorean Mid-Atlantic Summer Fun Run - Details
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

16. RE: Re: Emissions
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Re: Amplifiers.
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Relay clicking with my AC on.
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

19. Re: Relay clicking with my AC on.
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>

20. Re: Steering Column Rattle
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamergeinc.com>

21. RE: Never ending FV trouble
From: "Mike Cohee" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>

22. Re: Relay clicking with my AC on.
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

23. Re: "Professional" Mechanics
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywaters_at_dml_bellsouth.net>

24. Re: Re: Spoke too soon! - Thanks for tips on brake job.
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

25. Re: Relay clicking with my AC on.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

26. Re: Relay clicking with my AC on.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 15:35:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Air conditioning switch problem

It will probably take a rebuild of the mode switch. Not expensive and
not very time-consuming. A little difficult to access, that's all.
This should only be the LEAST of your problems! You really should
bring someone knowledgable on Deloreans in your area if at all
possible. Check the frame for rust. Check the fluid levels and color.
Examine the tires. Look at the wiring and fusebox. Take it for a ride
checking brakes, alignment, acceleration, handling, operation of all
controls. Inspect the sheet metal and glass. Try to get the service
history either from the owner or the shop it was serviced at.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_v...> wrote:

>> Hello list,
>> 
>> I am going to look at a car for sale this weekend, and the owner said 
>> that there is a problem with the air conditioning switch. He said when 
>> it is pushed it sounds like a woosh behind the dash (vaccuum switch?) 
>> but nothing happens. He said that he (not sure how) hooked the air 
>> conditioning directly to the battery and it runs fine and blows cold 
>> without any problems. Anyone have an idea what the issue could be? 
>> Could it be as simple as a broken switch? Thanks.








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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 01:43:05 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: How do you change the anti-freeze fluid in the Delorean?

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cooling.htm

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike p <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Hi, can someone please tell me how to change the
>> anti-freeze fluid in the Delorean?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Mike 
>> VIN#5781
>> 
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
>> http://mail.yahoo.com







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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 03:07:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: How do you change the anti-freeze fluid in the Delorean?

There are several reasons everyone should replace their radiator with
a metal one. The origional is plastic and it gets old and brittle. The
end tanks leak where they crimp to the core. There is no drain. The
metal ones are 3 row so they are more efficient. About the only good
reason I can think of not to replace is the pain-in-the-neck little
fasteners that will break when you do it. It all has to be done from
underneath too. I also recomend replacing the plastic header bottle at
the same time and all of the hoses and belts if they are over 10 years
old. Anyway, to get the old stuff out just go to the lowest point and
loosen the hose clamp to let it out. Fill with water and flush several
times. Drain and refill with fresh anti-freeze.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> The stock radiator does not have a drain petcock. The only real way 
>> is to remove the lower hose. Vent the system by removing the coolant 
>> bottle cap. If that fails to vent the system, you'll have to 
>> 







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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 12:33:00 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Relay clicking with my AC on.

That is probably just the AC clutch engaging/disengaging.

-Joe Kuchan


>>From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Relay clicking with my AC on.
>>Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 15:28:48 -0000
>>
>>I haven't done anything yet with regards to electrical systems in my
>>car.  It has the Fan Relay bypass for the blue relay.  When I run the
>>AC, I hear annoying relay clicks behind me, every five seconds or so.
>>Is this normal?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Paul
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 12:48:07 -0500
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywaters_at_dml_bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: My DMC Joe Experience



Generally, I myself am not a big poster, but the fact that this hits
close to home and a little down time because of a certain hurricane
brings me in. 

About 3 years ago, I myself had several thousand dollars worth of
repairs, maintenance, etc done by Joe in his shop in Georgia, mainly
because of the proximity to my own home in NC, and because of his
reputation that he had built on the DML.  He kept my car for around 3
months.  I got it back on the day of the first meeting of  ETDOC in
Knoxville.  When I started to drive it home, I noticed immediately that
many of the repairs I had paid him for were not done, the most
noticeable being the replacement of the angle drive.  I'm not going to
get into the entirety of what was done, but something from my mind
really stuck out; when I met up with the other owners in Knoxville, and
started pointing out some of the items that were done, one of the guys
who had just sent his car into Rob Grady to have some stuff "unJoed"
made the statement that nothing made him madder than to have to pay
someone else to fix something that he had paid someone else to do.
(BTW, if anyone has not seen the work that Rob does on cars, you really
need to make an effort to find one, they are INCREDIBLE. Sorry Rob,
shameless plug) What is really sad about the whole thing is the fact
that many people have not just invested a few hundred or a couple
thousand in it, they have invested much more than if they had just had
it done by Rob or Houston, or any of the other very reputable shops that
keep our Marque going. How many people has Joe not only taken money
from, but also completely soured the experience of owning a DeLorean?
And that is really the sad part.

Scott






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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 01:08:00 -0400
From: "timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Relay clicking with my AC on.

You aren't the first person I have heard mention replacing all of the fuses.
Why do some recommended this?  Fuses are not wearable items.

Greg



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Gus Schlachter
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 5:55 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Relay clicking with my AC on.

Paul,

Rejoice!  The sound of relays clicking means that they're working.   :-) 

One relay is for the compressor clutch, another for the cooling fans.  I 
have my fans wired to always run when A/C is selected, avoiding the 
constant electrical dips and surges.  I also have one relay for each fan.

If you really haven't done anything to your electrical system yet, then:

  1. Replace the fuses.  All of them.  Leave the cover off of the "fusebox 
oven".
  2. Clean the contacts of the relays.  Replace if necessary, or if 
paranoid and flush with cash.
  3. Clean and tighten the ground points.
  4. Upgrade the fan circuit breakers, although if you have the Fan Fail 
bypass this may have already been done.

If the clicking bothers you...upgrade the stereo with more wattage
.

Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, TX





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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 05:18:20 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: My DMC Joe Experience

is this joe out there on the list?  has he been reading any of this?  i would LOVE to 
hear what he has to say to back himself up.
corey
2423

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Cagle" <sharkywaters_at_dml_b...> wrote:

>> 
>> 
>> Generally, I myself am not a big poster, but the fact that this hits
>> close to home and a little down time because of a certain hurricane
>> brings me in. 
>> 
>> About 3 years ago, I myself had several thousand dollars worth of
>> repairs, maintenance, etc done by Joe in his shop in Georgia, mainly
>> because of the proximity to my own home in NC, and because of his
>> reputation that he had built on the DML.  He kept my car for around 3
>> months.  I got it back on the day of the first meeting of  ETDOC in
>> Knoxville.  When I started to drive it home, I noticed immediately that
>> many of the repairs I had paid him for were not done, the most
>> noticeable being the replacement of the angle drive.  I'm not going to
>> get into the entirety of what was done, but something from my mind
>> really stuck out; when I met up with the other owners in Knoxville, and
>> started pointing out some of the items that were done, one of the guys
>> who had just sent his car into Rob Grady to have some stuff "unJoed"
>> made the statement that nothing made him madder than to have to pay
>> someone else to fix something that he had paid someone else to do.
>> (BTW, if anyone has not seen the work that Rob does on cars, you really
>> need to make an effort to find one, they are INCREDIBLE. Sorry Rob,
>> shameless plug) What is really sad about the whole thing is the fact
>> that many people have not just invested a few hundred or a couple
>> thousand in it, they have invested much more than if they had just had
>> it done by Rob or Houston, or any of the other very reputable shops that
>> keep our Marque going. How many people has Joe not only taken money
>> from, but also completely soured the experience of owning a DeLorean?
>> And that is really the sad part.
>> 
>> Scott







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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 00:39:55 EDT
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Thermostat

As far as a cross reference on the engine, I would tell the parts store that 
the engine was from a 1980 Volvo 260 (either that or a GLE) with the B28F V-6. 
 Most of the tune up parts and stuff like the thermostat are common between 
the DeLorean and the 1980 Volvo 260.  Besides the DeLorean, the Volvo 260 was 
about the only other car imported to the US with the PRV engine with K-jetronic 
fuel injection.  

I would always recommend going through the DeLorean vendors, since they know 
our cars better then anyone else out there, however it is always nice to know 
a cross reference when you are in a bind for time.

Note:  Even though most parts stores will have the Volvo 260 listed in their 
computer systems, most of the parts for the engine are not in stock, unless 
you are at a location such as a NAPA or CarQuest warehouse, and even then a good 
number of the parts have to be ordered.  There arn't many Volvo 260's on the 
road any more, in fact there very well might be more DeLoreans on the road at 
this point.  In most cases it will take a few days to get the parts that you 
need.  So from a time standpoint you would be better off calling a DeLorean 
vendor, plus you know that you'll get the right part the first time.

Hope that helps,
Andrew
4194


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 05:52:44 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Steering Column Rattle

Jeremiah, Did you replace the steering column bushing to take out the
rattle.
John


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Jeremiah Montee
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 12:03 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Steering Column Rattle


Here's one that started on the trip home from
Birmingham to Pensacola.

My steering column has some kind of rattle.  It will
rattle almost ANYTIME.  When you shut the door, turn
the wheel to the left or the right, take a bump in the
road, take a corner hard - anytime.  I have tightened
the steering wheel adjustment knob underneath the
kneepad as tight as possible with no effect.  The
whole column appears to be a bit loose, as I can grab
the wheel and move the whole column up about maybe
half an inch.  If I put both hands on the wheel and
apply downward force while driving, it will not
rattle, but if I "casually drive", it will rattle to
no end.  This is not the normal "give" in the steering
column with a 25 year old suspension; this "rattle"
whenever the car interacts with any bump, groove,
pothole, pebble, curve in the road is BEYOND
irritating.  I'm going to tighten every bolt,nut, and
screw in the footwell area of the driver's
compartment.  Would these symptoms be indicative of a
loose connection at the point where the steering
column and steering rack meet?  I have no play in the
steering itself; it is as tight as can be.

Jeremiah



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Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs





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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 05:30:13 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: FV troubles?



Have you checked your Lambda sensor?  It may not be signaling correctly.

"I've got the worst up and down idle ever, no matter what kind of
adjustment the CO screw has. I'm sure the problem is partly because my
FV will run and then shut off. I've had a chance today to play around
with it...If I unhook the frequency valve of it's fuel lines, I can
hold the relay closed and the FV will run all day long (opened up
original relay to hold contacts down). Once I hook it to it's lines,
it will run for a few minutes, and then stop working all together. I
cleaned out the little screen inside the inlet, but can't figure out
why it won't stay running. The ground is clean and brand new
connector, obviously the FV runs so I doubt it's bad...I have a new
relay installed... When the lines full of fuel I can open the contacts
of relay to have the FV shut off, and then close it, it will run for a
few secs and then wind down slowly to a very low buzz, or it will shut
off completely. What the hell? -----Dani B. #5003"






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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 06:21:54 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Amplifiers.

I worked with stereo in general several years ago and somewhat noticed that
quality of sound was sacrificed for power.
I always look for a low THD ( Total Harmonic distortion )and then the power.
Normally the lower the THD the better the sound as you turn the volume up.
I wanted .05 or lower for THD at 3/4 volume no matter what the power rating
was.
A simple 10 to 20 RMS watts / channel with a low THD was wonderful for car
stereo.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Marc Levy
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 7:18 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Amplifiers.


06068 has a 450W system..  and it sounds fine to me...
Just wish the car had an engine in it already!

So my answer would be YES, it makes a difference.

--- Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:

>> That's a great explanation, thanks.. but I've got to
>> believe, based on
>> the actual volume of the Delorean cabin (very
>> small), that after a
>> certain point (i.e. number of watts of output),
>> that it just doesn't
>> matter - the volume would be deafening before you
>> actually "heard" a
>> difference with more watts.   (diminishing returns,
>> if you will).  So,
>> for argument sake, suppose you have a great head
>> unit that puts out 20
>> watts per channel.  Is a 70 watt stereo *inside a
>> Delorean* really
>> going to sound better at the same tolerable volume?
>> From your





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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 12:02:00 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Spoke too soon! - Thanks for tips on brake job.

After all the pats on the back I gave myself for doing the brakes, 
they started failing on my ride home yesterday!  I was coming to a 
stop, pressing the brake pedal, when the pedal lost pressure and 
slowly lowered to the floor!   I had to pump them quickly to build 
up some pressure, and worked my way home that way, making sure I had 
enough room in front of me.

I immediately suspected that I didn't tighten a line fitting or 
bleeder screw enough, but when I got home, I didn't notice any fluid 
leaking in the driveway.  I haven't checked anything yet, and will 
this weekend.  I am hoping it is a simple answer.  Could I hve a big 
air pocket left in the system, is the brake cylinder failing?  A 
little puzzled, but hope to solve tomorrow.

Paul
VIN 10944

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
wrote:

>> I wanted to thank those who gave me guidance on my recent brake 

job 

>> I did myself.  I replaced all the original calipers (and original 
>> brake shoes still on the car - 27,000 miles) with the loaded 

cadmium 

>> coated rebuilds from SpecialT Auto (not plugging the vendor, as I 
>> also purchase from all of them, to share and support those who 
>> support our fine cars, but nice pieces, nonetheless!)
>> 
>> I was only able to get the driver's side front and rear rotors off 
>> the car, even after tips on removing the rear spacer plates and 
>> exhaustive attempts with a rubber mallet, then a 2 x 4 and hammer 

(I 

>> have a souvenir blood blister behind my middle fingernail from 

that 

>> hammer - Ouch!) 
>> 
>> I was going to take them to a local shop for turning, but since I 
>> could only get two off, I kept them all on the car instead and 
>> sanded them with a rotary attachment on my drill with #80 

sandpaper, 

>> as suggested by David Teitelbaum (Thanks David, it worked like a 
>> charm to eliminate the glaze, and saves rotor material in the long 
>> run!).
>> 
>> I bought stainless break lines, but had trouble freeing the old 
>> lines (was bending the frame mounts trying the free the nut, and 

the 

>> rears seemed a little challenging to get my hands in there - I'll 
>> wait till someone else can put them in, perhaps during a visit to 

PJ 

>> Grady's).
>> 
>> After installing the new loaded calipers and bleeding the brakes, 
>> the car handles so much better!  The brakes feel like new (No more 
>> squealing and shimmying (my passenger front caliper was never 

fully 

>> releasing the rotor).  
>> 
>> Feels good to complete a job myself and bringing the Delorean to a 
>> condition closer to that when it was new.
>> 
>> Thanks again everyone!
>> 
>> Paul
>> VIN 10944







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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 08:04:06 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: My DMC Joe Experience

 
In a message dated 7/14/2005 11:13:33 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
sharkywaters_at_dml_bellsouth.net writes:

How many  people has Joe not only taken money
from, but also completely soured the  experience of owning a DeLorean?
And that is really the sad  part.

Scott


Since I live in Fargo, ND I have never had my car at any of the DMC  shops.  
However, it really saddens me to hear these things about DMC  Joe.  When I 
first got my car 5 years ago, he was one of the only guys I  knew I could call, 
get through to right away, and get great technical  support.  His parts were 
always on time and he even went the extra mile to  call me a couple days later 
to ask if I had gotten some issues resolved which he  had given advice on.  I 
always considered him a great resource and I was  disappointed to hear that he 
was leaving the DeLorean community.  I had  nothing but great respect for him 
due to my limited contact, and I just wanted  to say that I am really 
disappointed to hear these things from other  owners.  I guess some people just aren't 
what they seem - even in our  tight-knit community.
 
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 12:37:27 -0000
From: "BTTF.com" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>
Subject: Re: 'Back to the Future' summer screenings schedule

One more to add...

July 22, 2005
Pioneer Courthouse Square - "Flicks on the Bricks", Portland, OR
Outdoor event, free to the public
 
Stephen Clark,
BTTF.com








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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 09:32:04 -0400
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Summer Fun Run - Details

It seems that the webhosting company for Delorean Mid-Atlantic is having a
hic-cup and our site has been down for a few hours.   I am forwarding all
the information for Saturday's event in the e-mail below for your reference
until the site is back online today.

Sorry for any confusion!!!

**********************************************
Summer Fun Run  

This is going to be a great Delorean event, and even better it's FREE for
members!
That's right it costs you nothing except parking for a fantastic day of
Deloreans, food, and a great time.

Hot on the heels of our fantastic Spring Social, the Summer Fun Run II will
be a great time for all who attend while being stress-free and a lot of fun.
The Summer Fun Run II includes an awesome caravan that takes you through
some beautiful areas of New York and then a traditional BBQ which allows
everyone to relax, get some sun and enjoy our cars.

There will be new DMA logo wear available for sale at this event...REALLY
NICE STUFF!!!    Please make sure you have a full tank of Gas BEFORE you
arrive, and that you have cash on you to pay for parking at the BBQ location
($6) and if you would like to purchase some logo wear.    ATMs and bathrooms
are in the mall if needed.

Agenda is as follows: 

10:30: Meet at palisades park mall in W. Nyack, NY

11:30 Begin caravan to Bear Mtn. State Park. The caravan, a drive straight
up route 9W going North, will take approx. 30 minutes. It's a simple drive,
no one can get lost!

This caravan will take you through some beautiful areas that will beg for
you to take pictures. The route also has plenty of gas stations just in case
you forget to fill up.

12:00 Arrive at the park and start the BBQ and fun!

Save the date!!
When: Saturday, July 16, 2005
Where: Meet at the Palisades Mall, W. Nyack, NY.

Palisades Center Mall
(845) 348-1000
1000 Palisades Center Dr
West Nyack, NY 10994


For more information, e-mail sumrun_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com








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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 06:04:38 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Emissions

Dave, I was told and please correct if wrong that any car that came with
emissions control ( cat ) by federal law has to be maintained as such. Even
though it won't be inspected it sounds like the state is countering the
Fed's.
If you want to maintain the car with a cat I have the new performance one on
the web site now. They are a bolt on performance replacement, all SS with
heat shield built in.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Dave
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 12:15 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Emissions


Well lucky for me, this is the last year for emissions inspections for
cars made in 1981 for Washington State.   :) 

In Washington, they don't care what you do to the car as long as it
passes the emissions specs set for that particular car.  That's great
for people who like to modify cars i.e. engine swaps.

Did I forget to mention that the emissions guy insisted that DeLorean
offered two engines for their cars?  Apparently, aside from the 2.8
Liter V6, there was a 2.9 Liter 4 cylinder.  I told him to just make
sure he marked me down as having the V6.

Oh the humanity!

Thanks!
Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:

>> The PRV happens to be a very efficient little package, especially for
>> it's vintage. Strictly speaking though, even if your emission numbers
>> are within the limits for the year, if, on visual inspection, they
>> find you do not have a catalytic converter and the car is supposed to
>> have one, they can fail you. That is why there is a sticker on the
>> door stating such. In some states ANY modifacation, like a turbo,
>> needs to have a special waiver too. I do not know if anyone ever got
>> the waiver for any turbo set-up. Of course California is probably the
>> only state that would be a problem.
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>>
>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_m...> wrote:
>
>>> > Not sure if anyone would be interested in this information, but I feel
>>> > it's a little bit noteworthy for the forum with regards to information
>>> > about our cars.
>>> >
>>> > I have an automatic single turbo DeLorean.  The turbo setup is a BAE,
>>> > which means that the catalytic converter is absent from the car.
>>> >
>>> > I took it in for an emissions test last week, and the car passed with
>>> > flying colors.  I don't recall off hand what the #s were, and I don't
>>> > have my emissions statement with me as I write this, but I do recall
>>> > that the #s were well below the minimum requirements.  If anyone is
>>> > interested in the specific #s, I would be happy to pass those along.
>>> >
>>> > I live in Washington State.  I don't know how Washington's emissions
>>> > standards fairs with others.
>>> >
>>> > FYI
>>> >
>>> > Thanks!
>>> > Dave Jacobs









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 04:10:57 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Amplifiers.

The necessity of high power amps?   It will help with to get the best optimal 
sound reproduction.   You may never need, but IT WILL BE THERE IF YOU DO.   A 
good way to compare a basic in dash set up without a high power amp will be 
like our standard PVR engine in our DeLorean.   Having an amp is like having a 
turbo installed on the PVR..... It just helps make a difference when you need 
it.    I am sure that if some of you have the extra cash to get a high power 
amp installed, you will find a difference.   The extra power will help play the 
system louder that will help override the engine noise, the road noise, the 
tire noise and etc. 

As we all know, in the DeLorean, the cabin's layout is small and it is 
terrible for sound reproduction.   The original speakers placements are at it are 
worst and it doesn't help in the sound reproduction and I do find all of these 
issues altering the sound frequencies.   There are frequencies are in 
cancellation or reinforcement that is altering the intended reproduced frequencies.   
This is where an understanding of physics takes over, and there is a lot of 
physics involved and I will not get involved in this area.    Anyway, an 
"equalizer" will help correct some of these frequencies and the discrepancies.   
   
At this point I would like to share some of my findings and experiences with 
my DeLorean.   In the last nine years of ownership, I had four different power 
amps in my DeLorean.   At the present for the last two and a half years in my 
DeLorean, I have a solid state (transistor) amplifier, the "Sinfoni 120.4X" 
amp.    This is the one of few amps that is transistor type and will fit in the 
DeLorean without it being notice or obtrusive.... It is too bad that the amp 
is hidden for it is a real beautiful made amp.   A work of art!   See their 
site:   http://www.sinfoni.com/eng/start.html   

This Sinfoni amp has the output of 95/135 (REAL) watts per channel by four 
channels.   It is the highest output on the market in a single chassis.     It 
will play from the softest to the loudest without any distortion from the 
amp....Only distortions is from the speakers being over worked and heated up when 
playing "rock & oldies."   When I listen to classical and jazz, it has details 
with impact and it is clean!   

For what I really want in my DeLorean is the Butler Amp that is a tube 
design.   See:
http://hometheater.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.butleraudi
o.com

This is a real high quality sonic amplifier like the Sinfoni or better in 
some of the sonic areas.   It is so good the many of the famous rock 
contemporaries, jazz and classical musicians have them in their vehicles.   The problem is 
that the tubes run hot and convection for cooling is a must and the DeLorean 
has no place to mount it, unless you will are willing to mount it in the cabin 
and exposing it to prying eyes.   

Anyway, both of these amps are not cheap and they are just two of the best 
out of a handful of high quality amps that are available in the world of the 
automotive high-end "audiophile" equipment. 

Please keep in mind; I said sound reproduction and NOT SOUND REINFORCEMENT.   
The difference is that sound reproduction is producing the original sound 
that was being played and recorded with the details, harmonics, timbre, 
placement, depth, warmth and etc., all intact.   Sound reinforcement is just LOUD ear 
shattering and bursting noise with little no appealing qualities as normal 
"music by the instruments or voices."

>From the teachings of several high-end audio engineers and manufactures: "If 
your sound system can reproduce a 'cello,' then your system is correct."

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY




In a message dated 7/14/05 8:57:42 AM, heskin_at_dml_gmail.com writes:



>> but I've got to believe, based on
>> the actual volume of the Delorean cabin (very small), that after a
>> certain point (i.e. number of watts of output),  that it just doesn't
>> matter - the volume would be deafening before you actually "heard" a
>> difference with more watts.   (diminishing returns, if you will).  So,
>> for argument sake, suppose you have a great head unit that puts out 20
>> watts per channel.  Is a 70 watt stereo *inside a Delorean* really
>> going to sound better at the same tolerable volume?  From your
>> explanation, the wattage ratings (assuming similar component quality
>> and build) only matters at very high volume, which makes perfect
>> sense... but listening to 70 watts inside the car has got to be beyond
>> ear-damage level, no matter the type of music one is listening to.
>> 
>> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 08:56:56 -0500
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Relay clicking with my AC on.

As the blades on the fuses age they collect corrosion or dirt. That reduces
the conductive area of the blade and as the area of conductivity  gets
smaller it creates resistance which builds heat. You can clean all the
Blades occasionaly or simply install new fuses.

Bruce Benson



>> You aren't the first person I have heard mention replacing all of the

fuses.

>> Why do some recommended this?  Fuses are not wearable items.
>>
>> Greg







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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 13:49:54 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Relay clicking with my AC on.

Yes! It is normal, but perhaps a little fast. As John Macias
mentioned, you may be a little low on freon.  The sound is the cooling
fan relay switching on and off with the AC compressor. Curious, do you
have the plywood board installed over the electrical compartment? If
not, the clicking is very prevelant; if so, it should be very muted.

In a stock wiring setup, there is no relay for the compressor itself
as Gus Schlachter said there was.  Perhaps his car is modified. The
compressor is directly powered through fuse #10, then the mode switch,
then the pressure switch(s), then tapped by dioes for switching on the
cooling fans, then into the compressor.

I find it unlikely that you have a circuit breaker popping every 5
seconds like David Teitelbaum and John Hervey mentioned, they dont
work that fast and are not nearly as loud as a relay.

As Joseph Kuchan said about the compressor clutch itself
engaging/disengaging, it is possible to hear that in the car and think
it is a relay if you have a leaky rear window.  My car was like that
until I re-sealed it.  Now I can only hear the cooling fan relay
activating in unison with the compressor (because I do not have the
plywood board over the electrical compartment).  Hope this answers
your question!

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:

>> I haven't done anything yet with regards to electrical systems in my 
>> car.  It has the Fan Relay bypass for the blue relay.  When I run the 
>> AC, I hear annoying relay clicks behind me, every five seconds or so. 
>> Is this normal?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul








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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 13:51:26 -0000
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamergeinc.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Column Rattle

Mine is doing this also, even though I installed the new improved 
plastic bushing. I think there may just enough play in the new 
bushing to allow this rattle. I might try some additional shim stock 
(sodacan) to tighten it up a little when I get the chance to take 
the steering apart again.

For now, I'll play the stereo louder:)

Marty




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> Here's one that started on the trip home from
>> Birmingham to Pensacola.
>> 
>> My steering column has some kind of rattle.  It will
>> rattle almost ANYTIME.  When you shut the door, turn
>> the wheel to the left or the right, take a bump in the
>> road, take a corner hard - anytime.  I have tightened
>> the steering wheel adjustment knob underneath the
>> kneepad as tight as possible with no effect.  The
>> whole column appears to be a bit loose, as I can grab
>> the wheel and move the whole column up about maybe
>> half an inch.  If I put both hands on the wheel and
>> apply downward force while driving, it will not
>> rattle, but if I "casually drive", it will rattle to
>> no end.  This is not the normal "give" in the steering
>> column with a 25 year old suspension; this "rattle"
>> whenever the car interacts with any bump, groove,
>> pothole, pebble, curve in the road is BEYOND
>> irritating.  I'm going to tighten every bolt,nut, and
>> screw in the footwell area of the driver's
>> compartment.  Would these symptoms be indicative of a
>> loose connection at the point where the steering
>> column and steering rack meet?  I have no play in the
>> steering itself; it is as tight as can be.
>> 
>> Jeremiah
>> 
>> 
>> 		
>> ____________________________________________________
>> Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
>> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs







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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 10:05:48 -0400
From: "Mike Cohee" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Never ending FV trouble

Perhaps the problem is further down the chain. How new is your 02 sensor? It
sends the signal to the computer. Unplug it and see if your idle straightens
out. Maybe you could swap idle computers with another owner to double
check....

Good luck
Mike C
2109






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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 09:07:16 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Relay clicking with my AC on.

The fuse blades are aluminum.  They will oxidize as they age.  Aluminum 
Oxide (coroundum) has many useful properties, but conductivity isn't one 
of them.  This oxidation increases the resistance of the connection and 
it heats up, eventually melting the fuse block around the position.  New 
fuses of this type are so cheap that it is more efficient to change, 
rather than clean them. It's insurance.  Do it once a year at least.
Warren at DMC


timnagin wrote:

>> You aren't the first person I have heard mention replacing all of the fuses.
>> Why do some recommended this?  Fuses are not wearable items.
>> 
>> Greg
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
>> Gus Schlachter
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 5:55 PM
>> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [DML] Relay clicking with my AC on.
>> 
>> Paul,
>> 
>> Rejoice!  The sound of relays clicking means that they're working.   :-) 
>> 
>> One relay is for the compressor clutch, another for the cooling fans.  I 
>> have my fans wired to always run when A/C is selected, avoiding the 
>> constant electrical dips and surges.  I also have one relay for each fan.
>> 
>> If you really haven't done anything to your electrical system yet, then:
>> 
>>   1. Replace the fuses.  All of them.  Leave the cover off of the "fusebox 
>> oven".
>>   2. Clean the contacts of the relays.  Replace if necessary, or if 
>> paranoid and flush with cash.
>>   3. Clean and tighten the ground points.
>>   4. Upgrade the fan circuit breakers, although if you have the Fan Fail 
>> bypass this may have already been done.
>> 
>> If the clicking bothers you...upgrade the stereo with more wattage
>> .
>> 
>> Gus Schlachter
>> VIN #4695
>> Austin, TX
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 





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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 09:18:32 -0500
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywaters_at_dml_bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: "Professional" Mechanics

I had a similar problem.  I had some tires changed at a local shop that 
shall remain Sears (real simple, right?)  A few months later, I packed the 
car up and moved to Florida.  Didn't have a whole lot of time to drive it 
between the next few months, and when I finally did, I had a flat tire. When 
I tried to get the tire off, no luck. Stripped off the lugnut sheath.  So I 
took it to a friend of mine who had an airgun, and same thing. They wouldn't 
move.  So I took it to a local tire shop who tried so hard to get them off 
that they finally stopped because they were afraid the posts were going to 
break. We ended up having to cut them off with a torch and replace all 
around.  I would love to find the guy at sears who did that and ask him WHAT 
THE HELL WERE YOU THINKING? 






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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 09:40:20 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Spoke too soon! - Thanks for tips on brake job.

Sounds like the master cylinder has packed in.  We have a new unit, 
custom cast, that has the proper 62/38 proportioning.  Easy 
installation. Part# 105543. $124.95.  Here it is:
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=1377&Qty=1&ShowCart=true

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537
281/441-2813 Fax


sweetp01569 wrote:

>> After all the pats on the back I gave myself for doing the brakes, 
>> they started failing on my ride home yesterday!  I was coming to a 
>> stop, pressing the brake pedal, when the pedal lost pressure and 
>> slowly lowered to the floor!   I had to pump them quickly to build 
>> up some pressure, and worked my way home that way, making sure I had 
>> enough room in front of me.
>> 
>> I immediately suspected that I didn't tighten a line fitting or 
>> bleeder screw enough, but when I got home, I didn't notice any fluid 
>> leaking in the driveway.  I haven't checked anything yet, and will 
>> this weekend.  I am hoping it is a simple answer.  Could I hve a big 
>> air pocket left in the system, is the brake cylinder failing?  A 
>> little puzzled, but hope to solve tomorrow.
>> 
>> Paul
>> VIN 10944
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>
>>>>I wanted to thank those who gave me guidance on my recent brake 
>
>> 
>> job 
>> 
>
>>>>I did myself.  I replaced all the original calipers (and original 
>>>>brake shoes still on the car - 27,000 miles) with the loaded 
>
>> 
>> cadmium 
>> 
>
>>>>coated rebuilds from SpecialT Auto (not plugging the vendor, as I 
>>>>also purchase from all of them, to share and support those who 
>>>>support our fine cars, but nice pieces, nonetheless!)
>>>>
>>>>I was only able to get the driver's side front and rear rotors off 
>>>>the car, even after tips on removing the rear spacer plates and 
>>>>exhaustive attempts with a rubber mallet, then a 2 x 4 and hammer 
>
>> 
>> (I 
>> 
>
>>>>have a souvenir blood blister behind my middle fingernail from 
>
>> 
>> that 
>> 
>
>>>>hammer - Ouch!) 
>>>>
>>>>I was going to take them to a local shop for turning, but since I 
>>>>could only get two off, I kept them all on the car instead and 
>>>>sanded them with a rotary attachment on my drill with #80 
>
>> 
>> sandpaper, 
>> 
>
>>>>as suggested by David Teitelbaum (Thanks David, it worked like a 
>>>>charm to eliminate the glaze, and saves rotor material in the long 
>>>>run!).
>>>>
>>>>I bought stainless break lines, but had trouble freeing the old 
>>>>lines (was bending the frame mounts trying the free the nut, and 
>
>> 
>> the 
>> 
>
>>>>rears seemed a little challenging to get my hands in there - I'll 
>>>>wait till someone else can put them in, perhaps during a visit to 
>
>> 
>> PJ 
>> 
>
>>>>Grady's).
>>>>
>>>>After installing the new loaded calipers and bleeding the brakes, 
>>>>the car handles so much better!  The brakes feel like new (No more 
>>>>squealing and shimmying (my passenger front caliper was never 
>
>> 
>> fully 
>> 
>
>>>>releasing the rotor).  
>>>>
>>>>Feels good to complete a job myself and bringing the Delorean to a 
>>>>condition closer to that when it was new.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks again everyone!
>>>>
>>>>Paul
>>>>VIN 10944
>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 





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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 14:35:56 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Relay clicking with my AC on.

It certainly can't hurt to replace the fuses. They can be cleaned up.
The most important thing is to be sure you have the correct size in
the right spot. A P.O. could have replaced a fuse with the wrong size
(maybe that's all he had) and never got the right size back in. When
you buy a used car you really have to be suspicious of EVERYTHING!
Look for melted or overheated plastic or connections. The connectors
should grip the fuses tightly. Leave the cover off. Things will run
cooler.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <delornut_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>> As the blades on the fuses age they collect corrosion or dirt. That

reduces

>> the conductive area of the blade and as the area of conductivity  gets
>> smaller it creates resistance which builds heat. You can clean all the
>>







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Message: 26
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 14:44:15 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Relay clicking with my AC on.

It's also important to remember that the battery is in the compartment 
just below all that electrical stuff, and it is NOT sealed in between 
the compartments. In normal operation there is a fair amount of acid 
fumes that make their way into the compartment. This is very corrosive 
to not only the fuse blades, but all the other contacts in that area.

This makes a good reason for an Optima battery, or a BMW-style wet 
battery that is vented outside the car with a small hose directly from 
the battery. Although I'm not sure there's a style of that one that 
fits.

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <delornut_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>> As the blades on the fuses age they collect corrosion or dirt. That 

reduces

>> the conductive area of the blade and as the area of conductivity  gets
>> smaller it creates resistance which builds heat. You can clean all the
>> Blades occasionaly or simply install new fuses.
>> 
>> Bruce Benson
>> 
>> 
>
>>> > You aren't the first person I have heard mention replacing all of 

the

>> fuses.
>
>>> > Why do some recommended this?  Fuses are not wearable items.
>>> >
>>> > Greg







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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