Subject:
[DML] Digest Number 2755
From:
dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:
24 Jul 2005 16:22:45 -0000
To:

dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: steering wheel lock
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Needed Badly: Button Clip for the Mode Switch
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: steering wheel lock
From: "Robert Patz" <topgunster_at_dml_delorean.com>

4. Re: Re: Bad alternator?
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Idle Speed Motor / Cooling
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Re: Bad alternator?
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

7. Re: Bad alternator?
From: "Robert Patz" <topgunster_at_dml_delorean.com>

8. Re: steering wheel lock
From: "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl>

9. Re: steering wheel lock
From: "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl>

10. Re: steering wheel lock
From: "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl>

11. Re: Mode switch [was - Needed Badly: Button Clip]
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

12. Question and strange car show behavior
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

13. Get my Delorean inspected!!!
From: "jrc2905" <jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

15. Re: rear quarter panel
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

16. RE: Bad alternator?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Re: steering wheel lock
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

18. Rockford Car show - Sep 10th
From: <bill.schafer_at_dml_us.army.mil>

19. vibrating speedometer?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

20. Possessed Car
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. RE: Question and strange car show behavior
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Getting back to work
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

23. Re: Poor airflow thru heater-A/C
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

24. RE: Needed Badly: Button Clip for the Mode Switch
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

25. Re: rear quarter panel
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 12:20:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: steering wheel lock

When that happened to me, I had to call a locksmith
and have the tumblers reset.  Not syaing this is your
case, but don't be surprised if that's what it boils
down to.

Jeremiah

--- joopnoordzij <noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl> wrote:


>> Hi all,
>> So far I have been without too much trouble with my
>> D, but now my 
>> steering wheel lock seems to be stuck (in the locked
>> position). I can 
>> put the key in, I can push the lock in for the
>> customary 3 mm or so, 
>> but the lock will just refuse to become unlocked.
>> The key won't turn. 
>> No matter what I try, wiggling the steering wheel,
>> even pushing the 
>> column in and out, nothing helps. I looked in all of
>> the past 
>> messages, but no one seems to have had the problem
>> before, or 





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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 19:36:23 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Needed Badly: Button Clip for the Mode Switch

Well I already have three of Grady's HCR mode switch diaphrams that 
are pre lubed/oiled. I'm redoing the mode switches on all three 
cars, all are original.

I used petroleum jelly on them before, but it still likes to dry out 
after awhile, or the jelly will block off a vent setting, and I hate 
tearing the console apart for that damn mode switch. So I decided to 
do it right with three of the better mode switch diaphrams.

The mode switch in 16851 is being replaced just to make sure it 
isn't a factor in my problem with the vent controls. Other two for 
preventative maintenance. I have two spare mode switches, just that 
the switch in 16851 and my spares all have the damn button clip 
broken, missing 1 tab. Seems the P.O. of these clips forced them in 
the wrong way.

The other two cars are fine, and I told myself I would never rob 
from another car to make another one work, so I am still holding 
myself to that one. I'd rather just buy the correct part and have it 
done the right way.

So, if anyone still has a spare button clip, I would desperatley 
like to buy it from you!!


-Joe O'Brien

2524,
16634,
16851








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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 19:46:15 -0000
From: "Robert Patz" <topgunster_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: steering wheel lock

Hi Joop,
I've had that problem with a replacement key, if I use my original key 
it works fine.  If you are using a replacement key and you have an 
original where the only problem is the rubber part coming off, try 
making a new key from the original.

Have a Great day!
BOB - - - - - 808
5144


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_x> wrote:

>> Hi all,
>> So far I have been without too much trouble with my D, but now my 
>> steering wheel lock seems to be stuck (in the locked position). I 

can 

>> put the key in, I can push the lock in for the customary 3 mm or so, 
>> but the lock will just refuse to become unlocked. The key won't 

turn. 

>> No matter what I try, wiggling the steering wheel, even pushing the 
>> column in and out, nothing helps. I looked in all of the past 
>> messages, but no one seems to have had the problem before, or 
>> mentioned a solution.
>> Any advice is appreciated.
>> 
>> Joop Noordzij, VIN#3085, The Netherlands








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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 12:33:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Bad alternator?

Dave had a great idea with it being the door module. 
When I hooked mine up for the first time, I had power
locks for the first time in over a year of owning the
car.  Then the next day when going into reverse (auto
tranny), the car died.  Unhooked door module, never
happened again.

Everyone here has listed a good number of possiblities
- door module, door lights, dirty grounds..it could be
the glovebox light.  Do you know for sure that the lid
shuts the light off?  You need to get a new
alternator, that Ducellier is almost like driving a
automatic with a friend cpu governor - what's the
point?  Get any alternator from any of the vendors;
they are well worth their money.  Get your battery
tested ot see if it's any good anymore; it may be
fried from all it's been through.  

Jeremiah



		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail 
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour: 
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html 





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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 15:11:34 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling

I have been messing with my idle speed motor, trying to figure out the loose 
connection
and I found that the car idles, and runs better when I simply unplug the 
damn thing!
So, I don't know what to do, but when I unplug it the idle drops to a nice 
level.
When I plug it in it rises, when I pull on the wires it drops again?

Cooling:
We had replaced the thermostat and I can not say for sure one way or the 
other that
it changed anything.
I took the car out yesterday for a test drive to see if it would overheat.
The temp stays around the first marker until I turn on the AC and then it 
almost
doubles, the temp needle stayed just below the halway mark, about 210 
degrees
and at time reached the center of 220.
Is this normal and acceptable?
Will it harm the engine?

- VB






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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 12:21:54 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Bad alternator?

Josh,
The first time I ever replaced an alternator was on the D. It took about 8 
hours total, including replacing both fan belts. Most of that time was 
figuring out how to do it and backtracking a few mistakes (like using the 
old bolt instead of the new longer one). If I had to do it all over again, 
I could probably do it in about 2 hours. It's defiantly a good 
do-it-yourself project. All you need is a set of sockets and wrenches. Jack 
the rear of the car up so you'll have a bit more room to work will help too.

One other item nobody has mentioned yet is if you still have problems with 
the battery being under charged after the alternator is replaced, it could 
be a bad battery ground. When mine was bad, I had the same problems. You 
can quickly test this by checking the resistance between the negative 
battery cable and the frame. Anything more then a few ohms means the 
connection is dirty.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 06:35 PM 7/23/2005 +0000, you wrote:

>>In a related question. Just how difficult is the job of removing and
>>replacing the alternator, I've noticed a lack of hand-space from
>>where its located. Am I going to have to remove anything?
>>
>>Thank for the advice DML.
>>~ Josh Tidwell | VIN:4463






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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 20:01:44 -0000
From: "Robert Patz" <topgunster_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Bad alternator?

Hi Josh,
I also have a battery drain problem. My first problem was with the 
door lights. I noticed it when the garage was dark and I saw light 
coming from the bottom of the car. Adjusted the rubber tip so it 
worked. ( Put something in the rubber tip, mine needed to stick out 
a little further. )   I read something about a short in the door 
locks, so I do not lock the car in the garage anymore and haven't 
had a problem yet.

Have a Great Day!
BOB - - - - - 808
5144  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> Best access to the alternator is underneath. It's easier with two 
>> people (one to loosen the bolt from above, one to hold the nut 
>> underneath) but it is do-able. There is also a adjusting bar 
>> underneathe that you have to loosen at both ends and unhookd from 

the 

>> alternator. 
>> 






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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 21:04:20 -0000
From: "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: steering wheel lock

In fact, the problem started with the original key, so I tried the 
replacement key, thinking that maybe the original one got worn. But 
no luck there either.
Joop

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Patz" <topgunster_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:

>> Hi Joop,
>> I've had that problem with a replacement key, if I use my original 

key 

>> it works fine.  If you are using a replacement key and you have an 
>> original where the only problem is the rubber part coming off, try 
>> making a new key from the original.
>> 
>> Have a Great day!
>> BOB - - - - - 808
>> 5144
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_x> wrote:
>
>>> > Hi all,
>>> > So far I have been without too much trouble with my D, but now 

my 

>>> > steering wheel lock seems to be stuck (in the locked position). 

I 

>> can 
>
>>> > put the 





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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 21:12:29 -0000
From: "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: steering wheel lock

David,
I did spray with WD40. The key now almost gets sucked in because of 
it, but still the lock won't budge. The car is now locked up in the 
garage where the shocks were changed, so I'll try again next monday. 
Ed Uding advised me to disassemble the housing and then hitting the 
lock assembly with a rubber hammer. So I'll probably try that first. 
Unless my D has had some time to think about this all during the 
weekend and decided to release the lock. Sometimes she just likes to 
do these kind of things just so I give her some more attention ...

Joop


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:

>> This is an unusual problem meaning that it doesn't seem to happen
>> often in Deloreans. I would try some spray lubricant into and 

around

>> the lock cylinder while wiggling the key and the steering wheel. If
>> you can't get it to move you will have to disassemble, clean,
>> lubricate, and reassemble the steering column. Maybe try another 

key?

>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_x> wrote:
>
>>> > Hi all,
>>> > So far I have been without too much trouble with my D, but now 

my 

>>> > steering wheel lock seems to be stuck (in the locked position). 

I can 

>>> > put the key in, I can push the lock in for the customary 3 mm or 

so, 

>>> > but the lock will just refuse to become unlocked. The key won't 

turn. 

>>> > No matter what I try, wiggling the steering wheel, even pushing 

the 

>>> > column in and out, nothing helps. I looked in all of the past 
>>> > messages, but no one seems to have had the problem before, or 
>>> > mentioned a solution.
>>> > Any advice is appreciated.
>>> > 
>>> > Joop Noordzij, VIN#3085, The Netherlands








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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 21:17:25 -0000
From: "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: steering wheel lock

Well, I sure hope not. It already gives me headaches thniking that I 
would need to get my (auto) D up on a trailer back to my place, get 
the lock out and have it repaired.

I'll keep you all informed.

Joop

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> When that happened to me, I had to call a locksmith
>> and have the tumblers reset.  Not syaing this is your
>> case, but don't be surprised if that's what it boils
>> down to.
>> 
>> Jeremiah
>> 
>> --- joopnoordzij <noordzy_at_dml_x...> wrote:
>> 
>
>>> > Hi all,
>>> > So far I have been without too much trouble with my
>>> > D, but now my 
>>> > steering wheel lock seems to be stuck (in the locked
>>> > position). I can 
>>> > put the key in, I can push the lock in for the
>>> > customary 3 mm or so, 
>>> > but the lock will just refuse to become unlocked.
>>> > The key won't turn. 
>>> > No matter what I try, wiggling the steering wheel,
>>> > even pushing the 
>>> > column in and out, nothing helps. I looked in all of
>>> > the past 
>>> > messages, but no one seems to have had the problem
>>> > before, or







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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 21:27:30 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Mode switch [was - Needed Badly: Button Clip]

Better than petroleum jelly is some stuff called "Wurth's Rubber 
Care" - you probably have to get it online because there are not many 
retail places that carry Wurth's. 

It used to be sold at BMW dealers as "Gummi Pflege" (Elvis help me 
out here but I think that's German for "Rubber Care"). Some BMW places may still have it in stock. 

It's made for this sort of thing, and won't dry out like petroleum 
jelly and is light enough that it won't plug up the holes. This is 
probably something that the vendors ought to carry - it's great on 
the door seals too. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> Well I already have three of Grady's HCR mode switch diaphrams that 
>> are pre lubed/oiled. I'm redoing the mode switches on all three 
>> cars, all are original.
>> 
>> I used petroleum jelly on them before, but it still likes to dry 

out 

>> after awhile, or the jelly will block off a vent setting, and I 

hate 

>> tearing the console apart for that damn mode switch. So I decided 

to 

>> do it right with three of the better mode switch diaphrams.
>> 
>> The mode switch in 16851 is being replaced just to make sure it 
>> isn't a factor in my problem with the vent controls. Other two for 
>> preventative maintenance. I have two spare mode switches, just that 
>> the switch in 16851 and my spares all have the damn button clip 
>> broken, missing 1 tab. Seems the P.O. of these clips forced them in 
>> the wrong way.
>> 
>> The other two cars are fine, and I told myself I would never rob 
>> from another car to make another one work, so I am still holding 
>> myself to that one. I'd rather just buy the correct part and have 

it 

>> done the right way.
>> 
>> So, if anyone still has a spare button clip, I would desperatley 
>> like to buy it from you!!
>> 
>> 
>> -Joe O'Brien
>> 
>> 2524,
>> 16634,
>> 16851








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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 16:21:33 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Question and strange car show behavior

When I had my car at a show a couple weeks ago a guy came up and was  
telling me how a woman in Germany had commissioned him to do a  
drawing or painting of her husbands Delorean as a birthday or  
christmas gift for him. He said that she had even included a photo  
of  his driving gloves. I was wondering if the recipient of that  
picture was anyone on this list.

On a different topic but related to that car show, I think I  
witnessed the strangest behavior I have seen yet at a show. A young  
guy in his late teens or early 20's walked up in awe of seeing a  
Delorean in "real life". After about 5 minutes of looking it over and  
asking questions about it he asked me if he hug it.  I chuckled to  
myself and to him go ahead. He immediately hugged the car's left rear  
quarter panel. I thought "how cute! What a kodak moment".... then he  
started humping the quarter panel and grunting. Not a very shy  
fellow.  I was so shocked all I could do was stand there and stare at  
him along with the 8 or 10 other people that were standing around.  
Fortunately he stopped before I had to go find a garden hose to  
separate him from the car.  I love my car but apparently not quite as  
much or in quite the same ways  as he did.

Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX

http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 23:38:23 -0000
From: "jrc2905" <jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Get my Delorean inspected!!!

After being off the road for over a year I got my D running and 
needed an inspection sticker. No problem every thing was working. I 
asked  my wife to come sit and step on the brakes to check the 
lights. She sends my daughter instead, she asks when can she take the 
D out for a drive, I explain, (never), I am trying to tell her how to 
turn on the lights and after serial attempts she gets mad and pushes 
the headlight switch through the dash and breaks it. It is now 2pm 
and the local inspection stations close at 3pm. (I will leave out the 
parts about how upset I am at this point.) 

Three hours later I have 
the switch repaired (who sell this switch?) and I called a station 
that says they are open till 9pm for inspections on Saturday. My plan 
was to check everything, but the broken light switch made me rush. I 
get there and the young inspector jumps in the car and starts ranting 
about the Delorean, he is trying to figure how to drive it and what 
is what, saying he wants to time travel, I jokingly tell him if he 
breaks it he buys it (I am not joking). He finally gets it in the 
inspection bay after several attempts, now he is trying to figure out 
what switch does what with his friends telling him to hit the time 
button. I now realize that the backup lights do not work and the car 
will fail inspection, after all this time I want this car on the 
road! He is trying to figure out how to work the standard 
transmission to get the backup lights to work he has no idea what 
does what in this car, and between me giving him B.S.about what 
switch does what and his friend yelling at him about the time travel 
button, he get frustrated, gets out of the car and says everything is 
ok, I give him the payment for the inspection say goodbye and leave. 

After I left, I realized that he was so confused that he never 
checked the tires, ball joints, wipers, directionals and just about 
everything's else on the list (I did prior).
Well I now have my inspected D on the road and I am happy, but I did 
get a kick realizing that the Delorean can entertain people and 
confuse the inspectors.








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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 00:00:45 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling

Normal? With the cooling fans running your car shouldn't get hotter,
but cooler...-----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>> 
>> Cooling:
>> We had replaced the thermostat and I can not say for sure one way or

the 

>> other that
>> it changed anything.
>> I took the car out yesterday for a test drive to see if it would

overheat.

>> The temp stays around the first marker until I turn on the AC and

then it 

>> almost
>> doubles, the temp needle stayed just below the halway mark, about 210 
>> degrees
>> and at time reached the center of 220.
>> Is this normal and acceptable?
>> Will it harm the engine?
>> 
>> - VB







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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 23:58:34 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: rear quarter panel

The only way I know how to do this is by removing the rear quarter
panels...-----Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "lordshill1" <lordshill_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>> Hello.. I am in the finishing stages of the improvements that I
>> wanted 
>> to make to my car.  Between the rear louvers and the engine cover on 
>> the quarter panel there is a kinda sponge/cloth that fills the gap 
>> where the air intake is on one side and the antenna on the other
>> side.  
>> What is that called?  I bought a set on e-bay and new need to install 
>> them. How do you do this?  Are they glued in place?  They seem to be 
>> made of rather flimsy material and disintergrate to the touch (the
>> old 
>> ones on the car that is).  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks
>> 
>> Roy  #0893







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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 21:22:47 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Bad alternator?

Josh,
Everyone has told you about the door lights causing the problem. But, You
need to charge the battery over night to a full charge. The Ducy most likely
won't and even with the door light problem fixed keep the battery from
draining down again.
The Ducy when warmed up and or hot will only generate about 70 amps at about
5000 RPM's which is about 2500 RPm's on the car RPM gauge.
My alternator special at 10% off will end the end of this month.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/alternators.html




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of dmcjosh85
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 2:27 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Bad alternator?


So I have a bit of a situation here, you see after having my DMC sit
for 2-3 days untouched I sit down and turn to key to find that
though it cranks the engine will not fire up. after all why should
it: the battery guage is slightly lower than what it usually is. Now
right now my quick fix for this is to set the battery on the slow
charge for 2 hours or so than its ready to roll and the car fires
right up.

Now I know what your thinking? Bad Battery right? well the battery
is a brand new optima battery and ive only had to recharge the thing
becuase of my DMC about..5-6 times. As far as the alternator goes in
this story, it is still the original Ducellier 80 watt alternator




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 22:51:19 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: steering wheel lock

 
In a message dated 7/23/2005 4:24:47 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl writes:


>>  When that happened to me, I had to call a locksmith
>> and have the  tumblers reset.  Not syaing this is your
>> case, but don't be  surprised if that's what it boils
>> down to.
>> 
>>  Jeremiah



<<<
Group,
 
Actually I have the opposite problems. My steering wheel lock does not  work!
I believe it started about the last time I had the column out for U-joint  
replacement.
 
Anyone know what I did to mess it up?  Not a big deal but I kinda like  to 
have all functions of my car working properly.
 
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 22:49:55 -0500
From: <bill.schafer_at_dml_us.army.mil>
Subject: Rockford Car show - Sep 10th

 
 To all DML members,

 My son and I would like to invite anyone who might be interested to attend a charity car show being held in Rockford, IL on Sep 10th 2005. It will take place at the UPS Air hub (3300 Airport Drive, Rockford, IL). 

   * Registration starts at 0930 Hrs on Sep 10th, 2005

   * Cost is $10.00 per vehicle

   * Prizes include Circuit City gift certificates, trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd place

   * Winners determined by popular vote at 1300 hrs.
  
   * In addition to the car show UPS will have it's annual "Plane Pull"

   * UPS employees(20 member teams)actually compete to pull large UPS aircraft 

   * Open to the public, to classics, late model cars, trucks amd motorcycles

   * I would like to have at least 4 other DeLoreans attend. It's for a good cause.

Bring your favorite vehicle and be ready for a half day of fun with other like minded hobbists & collectors. Remember this is a charity event and every entry means more can be done for others. 

If you have questions or need a registration form please call my son:

Bill Schafer Jr.
815-601-2455 


"Plan for the worst, hope for the best, 
 anything better than worst is to your advantage".




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 00:13:19 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: vibrating speedometer?

Group,
 
I have noticed that my speedometer needle will rhythmically go up and down  
within about 2 mph anywhere from 5mph to 30 mph.  After you go faster than  
35mph, the needle is steady, but below 30 mph, it will move up and down as if  
the speedo cable was binding.  
 
I replaced my lower speedo cable this spring after my old one (which was  the 
car's 2nd cable) had began vibrating wildly accompanied by a clicking sound  
before it unravelled inside its sheath.  This newest one was smooth as  butter 
for a couple days but all spring has been showing a tendency to wiggle at  
low speed but there are no odd noises.  This week I pulled the lower cable  off 
for inspection and it is still undamaged and doing fine.  
 
When I replaced the cable this spring, I checked the angle drive (hardcore  
grady unit) and it was good, and I also inspected the gears of the lambda  
counter - they were well lubricated and moving freely. 
 
Should I be worried about my speedo?  Not sure if this is normal or  not.  
Like I said, the amount of 'wiggle' is only a couple mph but just  seems like it 
is sloppy.
 
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 03:44:29 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Possessed Car

Hello everyone,

There have been too many unexplained occurences that are just plain 
weird with my car.

I have owned this D' for almost a year now.  When I bought it last 
August, one of the features that the owner (Ron Cotton) told me to 
do was replace the audio.  He said it still had the stock speakers 
and an aftermarket Alpine tape deck that didn't work.  After I 
bought the car from him,  I personally got under the dashboard to 
check the speakers and connectors.  They were the stock 3.5"ers with 
some pretty bad looking electrical connectors and very dirty wires.  
So far the ONLY thing I'VE done to the audio system is replace the 
Alpine with a Kenwood CD player and when I did that I DID NOT CHANGE 
THE SPEAKERS, and that was just after Christmas.

Up until today, when I was going to change the front speakers I 
would constantly have to hit the dash to get them to stop shorting 
out.  They would flicker all the time on account of the bad 
connectors.  Well today all of a sudden, they aren't flickering 
anymore.  Not because I replaced them, they just weren't doing it.  
So I checked under the dash to see if I could put in 4" or if I 
still needed 3.5's and I noticed that on the LH side there is a much 
newer Sony 40w speaker sitting there with brand spanking new quick 
snap connectors and new grounding wires.  Well that was weird, so I 
checked the RH side and in place of the other was some off brand 15w 
speaker, but it too had brand new wires and connectors on it.  I 
didn't bother checking the rears because the trim panels are to much 
of a pain to take off, however those looked undisturbed.

Now, it is possible that someone at home may have done it while I 
wasn't using the car.  True, except why on earth would they put in 
two different brands of speakers.  I was under the impression that 
those came in sets.  I checked with everyone in the house and to 
their knowledge it has been sitting in the garage for the past month 
because of the hot weather.  The only thing I have done in a shop 
recently was get an alignment since I replaced my steering rack.  
But that was it.  And the real question I have is what the flippin 
cheese burger happened to the stock speakers that were in there 2 
months ago?

Couple this with the fact that one night all of the coolant 
disappeared in my tank even though there were no leaks(I had all of 
that checked) and I had just filled it up, and the fact that the 
first and only time the car refused to start was on the day that 
John Z. died (maybe just a strange coincedence), I am truly thinking 
that this car has a spirit of its own.

"Herbie" or "Christine" you be the judge.

Japheth Deaux
VIN: Chucky (1223)






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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 23:49:54 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Question and strange car show behavior

Humping a DeLorean?
It's not that strange... I do it all the time.
- VB


>>From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Question and strange car show behavior
>>Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 16:21:33 -0700
>>
>>When I had my car at a show a couple weeks ago a guy came up and was
>>telling me how a woman in Germany had commissioned him to do a
>>drawing or painting of her husbands Delorean as a birthday or
>>christmas gift for him. He said that she had even included a photo
>>of  his driving gloves. I was wondering if the recipient of that
>>picture was anyone on this list.





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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 13:31:12 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Getting back to work

I've driven my D daily for about 10 months without doing anything 
more to it besides change the oil. I was briefly sidetracked with 
other projects (cough boat cough) and now I'm whittling down the 
pile of new parts in my basement.

I ruptured an A/C hose a week or two ago. While installing the new 
stainless braided clutch line, I happened to notice that the A/C 
hose rubbed itself open on a small metal clip where it goes into the 
frame. I don't think the clip belongs there.

My point is, it's always good to eyeball things in the vicinity of 
the fuel filter, clutch lines and A/C back by the engine once in a 
while. I waited too long. I just thought I'd pass that on.

It's no great loss for me fortunately. My A/C needed an overhaul 
anyway and I had most of the parts on hand. I'm just being forced 
into the labor early.

Rich A.
#5335






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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 14:52:50 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Poor airflow thru heater-A/C

Perhaps I have the same issue.  With my blower on the highest 
setting (with AC on or not), it seems like mediocre flow through the 
dash and door vents, but hardly any air throught the floor.  I 
didn't even know there were floor vents until I read these posts!  
Also, AC is not that cold,either.

Could I have clogged evap and drain hose, or could my blower also be 
reversed?

Also, where is the end of the drain to attach a vac?  

Thanks,

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:

>>  
>> Dave,
>>  
>> I was recently in the same situation.  Here's a couple things I 

checked to fix my problem:

>>  
>> - Make sure the blower and squirrel cage are correct.  There are a 

lot of GM equivalents that fit perfectly, but the blower motor 
either turns the wrong direction, or the squirrel cage is cut to the 
mirror of the DeLorean (that is, it is made so that turning the 
opposite direction causes the air to flow the same direction).  
After I replaced my blower with an OEM that I bought amongst a hand-
full of other parts, my air flow highly increased.

>>  
>> - I also resealed the infamous foam on the back of the A/C box
>>  
>> - Cleaning the evap?  Here's how I did it.  I taped a wet shop vac 

on to the drain hose.  Then I removed the blower motor and the 
resistor to give extra room to get my hands in, and pulled back my 
carpet to lay down some old towels.  Start by dumping a little water 
into the evaporator box, then use your contortionist skills to reach 
into the box and pull that gunk out.  Keep pouring water through it 
and make sure it's making it to the vac.  You may have to stop to 
unclog the line a couple times.  Then I put a length of clear hose 
on the end of my garden hose, and fed it into the box.  With the 
hose on *slow* (it's a lot more water when coming out of the small 
clear hose), I nozzled the tube with my thumb and sprayed the 
evaporator for a long time.  Be careful not to get more water in 
than the drain hose can handle.

>>  
>> Oh yeah, and this job sucks.  But it's better than removing the 

evap.

>>  
>> Jake





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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 15:04:58 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Needed Badly: Button Clip for the Mode Switch

Joe,

Topic about a week ago about this clip in a "mode switch rebuild" thread.  I 
believe someone said that Houston may sell this part.  Call up the main 
vendors.  They may have a used Mode switch they'll part out.  I also saw a 
Mode Switch on eBay a few days ago.  I don't think it was too expensive 
although I can't remember.  John Hervey may have one of these clips.  In my 
dealings with him he usually has alot of little odds and ends.

Jeff in NC


>>From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Needed Badly: Button Clip for the Mode Switch
>>Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 06:02:33 -0000
>>
>>I'm trying to locate the seemingly impossible button clip for the
>>mode switch.
>>
>>This is the lisslt plastic clip that holds the rubber diaphram
>>tightly in the mode switch. The P.O. was kind enough to put the clip
>>in the wrong way and break it for me.
>>
>>





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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 16:04:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: rear quarter panel

You are talking about the round, doughnut looking thingy called the
"Air Seal". They were origionaly installed as the rear quater was
attached. To install a new one (without cutting it) you do have to
remove the rear quater. You have 4 choices. 
1 Leave it off.
2 remove the rear quaters to install it.
3 cut the air seal and have the seam where you can't see it.
4 buy 3/4 x 3/4 black insulating foam and make a couple and again, put
the seam where you can't see it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> The only way I know how to do this is by removing the rear quarter
>> panels...-----Dani B. #5003
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "lordshill1" <lordshill_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>
>>> > Hello.. I am in the finishing stages of the improvements that I
>>> > wanted 
>>> > to make to my car.  Between the rear louvers and the engine cover on 
>>> > the quarter panel there is a kinda sponge/cloth that fills the gap 
>>> > where the air intake is on one side and the antenna on the other
>>> > side.  
>>> > What is that called?  I bought a set on e-bay and new need to install 
>>> > them. How do you do this?  Are they glued in place?  They seem to be 
>>> > made of rather flimsy material and disintergrate to the touch (the
>>> > old 
>>> > ones on the car that is).  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks
>>> > 
>>> > Roy  #0893








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