Subject:
[DML] Digest Number 2757
From:
dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:
25 Jul 2005 02:27:48 -0000
To:

dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Alternator promotion
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. Stainless Steel scratch removing product
From: David Cox <DMCox_at_dml_delorean.com>

3. RE: Mode switch [was - Needed Badly: Button Clip]
From: "rob" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

4. Re: Possessed Car
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Possessed Car
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Air Condition at Highway Speeds
From: "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. British DMCs
From: "dr4gonetti" <dr4gonetti_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

8. Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling system
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: Bad alternator?
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: British DMCs
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

11. Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

12. Mode switch
From: Vic Lauhala <kvlauhala_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: British DMCs
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. RE: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. New Headlight switch
From: "delorean_3" <delorean3_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. 1/18 Sunstar Model
From: "gullwingdoors" <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: BTF car(s).
From: "gullwingdoors" <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Maryland drive-in social?
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: Re: Bad alternator?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: 1/18 Sunstar Model
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

22. Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

23. RE: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. RE: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. RE: Re: Bad alternator?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 17:40:28 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: Alternator promotion

Group, 
Just an FYI that the 10% off alternator promotion will end Sunday 
night July 31st. I will have a new one to introduce at that time.
John Hervey
 






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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 11:27:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Cox <DMCox_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Stainless Steel scratch removing product

I found this article in the local newspaper:

http://www.signonsandiego.com/news/northcounty/20050724-9999-m1m24restore.html

short version of the above:
http://tinyurl.com/d4j8g

This being sold through Home Depot and is marleted for all those stainless refrigerators and grills being sold.  I especially like this line:

"Expecting stainless steel to never scratch is like expecting skin to never get a freckle, a spokeswoman for kitchen appliance company Viking said."

They also said: "The stainless steel look has been around for a while, but people complain about fingerprints and scratches".

Anyway, not directly Delorean related, but if I see this in a store, and it's not too expensive, I may give it a try on some small scratches I have on my car.

Dave
vin 16367

_____________________________________________________________
Buy and sell stocks in NFL teams! Get paid dividends every time your team wins! Free limited-time trial at http://www.AllSportsMarket.com?affiliate=1860





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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 14:56:44 -0400
From: "rob" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Mode switch [was - Needed Badly: Button Clip]

Hi Dave,

Actually we do carry the same thing under the Winzer brand name. Wurth and
Winzer are German companies owned separately by a pair of brothers who
apparently compete with each other as they carry the same product lines! We
have used Winzer and Wurth products in our shop for at least twenty years.
It is listed on our website in the tab called Rubber door seals.
http://www.pjgrady.com/lgspec.asp?id=3 

We also carry Winzer Rubber Adhesive which is the best we've found (Sorry
Randal!) for attaching all of the bonded rubber seals on the DeLorean.
Another great product is 3M adhesive remover (Yea Randal!) We use these
three products in our shop exclusively to attach and care for all of the
DeLorean's many weather-strips and buffers.

>From now until the end of August we will supply these products free ($38.85
value) on any order of our Complete Seal Kit Part #'s 114666GS or 114666GL
so you can do a professional quality installation of your weather-strips at
no extra cost.

We also carry quality chemicals and fasteners for every part of your car
that are too numerous to list on our site at this time. Our experience as
the oldest DeLorean restoration shop guarantees you the right chemical for
every application. Sorry for the plug but I felt obliged to answer Dave's
statement ("This is something that the vendors ought to carry") completely
and accurately  :) .

Rob Grady

P.J.Grady Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf of
Dave Swingle
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 5:28 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Mode switch [was - Needed Badly: Button Clip]

Better than petroleum jelly is some stuff called "Wurth's Rubber 
Care" - you probably have to get it online because there are not many 
retail places that carry Wurth's. 

It used to be sold at BMW dealers as "Gummi Pflege" (Elvis help me 
out here but I think that's German for "Rubber Care"). Some BMW places may
still have it in stock. 

It's made for this sort of thing, and won't dry out like petroleum 
jelly and is light enough that it won't plug up the holes. This is 
probably something that the vendors ought to carry - it's great on 
the door seals too. 




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 12:46:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Possessed Car

Here's some advice; get a priest. LOL

                   George DeLorean

Where will you end up?  In Shangri-La, or Hell's Pit???


		
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 19:09:59 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Possessed Car

Well, it's one of two things...  either it's black magic, or it's the work of ninjas.

'Herbie'... 'Christine'... Move over!  There's a new possesed car thirsting for the taste 
of human blood!  And her name is...  'Deloris!'
Cheers,
Corey
2423

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> There have been too many unexplained occurences that are just plain 
>> weird with my car.





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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 19:26:22 -0000
From: "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Air Condition at Highway Speeds

Greetings! Recently picked up an 82 DMC and am quickly finding out about many of
its eccentricities ... the most recent one:

A clicking sound can be heard from the rear of the car when the air conditioning
is on at
highway speeds (at perhaps one second intervals). Has anyone else noticed this?







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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 20:42:08 -0000
From: "dr4gonetti" <dr4gonetti_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: British DMCs

Hi. I don't own a DMC yet, but I do hope to one day not too far away.

I'm sure this is a dreaded question in such a message board, but does
anybody know of any right hand drives for sale? I doubt anyone would
want to sell them, but there's still hope!

Another question I've never really been sure of the answer to: Was a
manual DMC ever made?

Thanks in advance for tolerating me!

Dr4gonetti






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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 17:05:17 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling system

 
 
VB,
 
Does your idle stay high with the idle speed motor connected or does it  vary 
up and down?
 
Does your tachometer flicker, just before the idle increases?
 
Dē & 6530



Message: 5
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 15:11:34 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling

I  have been messing with my idle speed motor, trying to figure out the loose 
 
connection
and I found that the car idles, and runs better when I  simply unplug the 
damn thing!
So, I don't know what to do, but when I  unplug it the idle drops to a nice 
level.
When I plug it in it rises,  when I pull on the wires it drops again?




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 17:12:35 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad alternator?

 
I'd say  anything more than a few tenths of an ohm would be bad,  and most  
ohmmeters are not reliable down that low.  It should read less than 1 ohm  for 
sure
 
Dē & 6530
 
One other item nobody has mentioned yet is if you still have problems with  
the battery being under charged after the alternator is replaced, it could  
be a bad battery ground. When mine was bad, I had the same problems. You  
can quickly test this by checking the resistance between the negative  
battery cable and the frame. Anything more then a few ohms means the  
connection is dirty.

Chris
VIN 4099




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 21:18:56 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: British DMCs

There are more manuals than automatics. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dr4gonetti" <dr4gonetti_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Hi. I don't own a DMC yet, but I do hope to one day not too far away.
>>
>> 
>> Another question I've never really been sure of the answer to: Was a
>> manual DMC ever made?
>> 









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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 17:32:32 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling

 
 
I've heard this before, that the engine should die if you unplug the idle  
speed motor connector but I still don't understand why.  (Mine doesn't  die.)
 
As far as I knew the idle speed motor will stay in what ever position it  was 
when it is unplugged.  Is this not the case?
 
If I unplug mine when the engine is idling slow it stays slow.  If I  unplug 
it when the engine is idling fast, it stays fast.
 
I am not aware of any mechanism within the idle speed motor that closes  off 
its passage way when power is removed.
 
Who else can shed more light on this?
 
Dē & 6530
Dave Delman


Message: 1
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 16:08:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling

If the motor still runs when you unplug the idle motor you have  vacuum
leaks or your throttle linkage is not adjusted correctly or both.  The
motor should stall when you pull the plug on the idle motor.  Check
that the brass screws are closed. Check the throttle plate  adjustments
that the throttle plates are closed all the way.
David  Teitelbaum
vin 10757




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 14:52:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Vic Lauhala <kvlauhala_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Mode switch

I have to agree with Dave.  Never use Vasolene or other lubricants on seals or other rubber parts. I had a problem with my mode switch for a couple of years until all it did was whistle. I finally took the time to check it out (I believe in May of 2000) and took it all apart. 
So what do you use on vacuum parts, dah, try high vacuum grease. Put just a little coating on the rubber part and it will work again.  I haven't had any problems with since.  Still the original part.  All functions work great with lots of air thru all dash and door openings.
 
Vic 7012

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 23:23:47 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: British DMCs

dr4gonetti wrote:


>>I'm sure this is a dreaded question in such a message board, but does
>>anybody know of any right hand drives for sale? I doubt anyone would
>>want to sell them, but there's still hope!
>>  
>>

Fewer than 20 originals, and they come up occasionally. One has recently 
been purchased by the club secretary of the DeLorean Owners Club 
(www.deloreans.co.uk) and one was sold at auction in London just before 
Christmas.

We would take on the job of converting one, but it's under-appreciated 
exactly how much work is involved and no-one has put down the cash as yet!

Best Wishes

Martin
DeLorean Motors UK





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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 22:58:18 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds

Clicking is good, it means that the compressor is cycling on and 
off. 
Cycling on one second intervals usually means that you are low on 
freon. I just had mine serviced (cycled every five seconds or so),
and now no more cycling.

John
#7009

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_y...>
wrote:

>> Greetings! Recently picked up an 82 DMC and am quickly finding out 

about many of

>> its eccentricities ... the most recent one:
>> 
>> A clicking sound can be heard from the rear of the car when the 

air 
conditioning

>> is on at
>> highway speeds (at perhaps one second intervals). Has anyone else 

noticed this?






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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 18:50:25 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds

Please wllow me to hijack this thread for a moment....
My AC compressor seems like it is on all the time (when the AC is on)
the clutch doesn't cycle on and off, except when I turn the AC off.
Is this normal?
What tells the clutch to release on and off?
What should I check?
Is there a relay or sensor that operates this?
Thanks.
- VB


>>From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
>>Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 22:58:18 -0000
>>
>>Clicking is good, it means that the compressor is cycling on and
>>off.
>>Cycling on one second intervals usually means that you are low on
>>freon. I just had mine serviced (cycled every five seconds or so),
>>and now no more cycling.
>>
>>John
>>#7009
>>


>>








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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 00:14:52 -0000
From: "delorean_3" <delorean3_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: New Headlight switch

As we are approaching roughly a month left in the new headlight switch 
drive, I would like to send a short plug for DMCH and encourage all to 
preorder a new headlight switch.  Even if you are not currently in 
need of a new one, what is $40 compared to the cost of one you may 
need in the future if they are not reproduced?  As a Delorean owner, 
it behooves you to invest in the future of your car, and this is one 
way you can do it.  I think we are at 184 preorders, and we need 250, 
so that only leaves 66.  We can do it!  :) 







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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 01:25:31 -0000
From: "gullwingdoors" <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: 1/18 Sunstar Model

I bought a 1/18 Sunstar Model of the De Lorean DMC-12.  On the stand it 
comes with it reads "1981 De Lorean LK".  What does the "LK" stand for? 
I have not heard the De Lorean called that before.

Thanks,
Chuck







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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 01:14:31 -0000
From: "gullwingdoors" <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: BTF car(s).

That part about the George Barris replicas is very interesting.  It 
also answers a question I had been wondering about for awhile.  I saw 
an episode of Car Crazy in which George Barris was being interviewed.
While he was being interviewed he walked past several of his cars,
and one of them was a bttf De Lorean.  There were, however, some 
mistakes I noticed on it.  And I may be remembering wrong, but I 
don't think it was even an '81, or at least not the earlier '81 model 
with the gas flap on the hood.  However, if George Barris made more 
that were not it the movies then they would not have to be exact so 
it makes sence that there might be some mistakes.

Thanks for clearing up my question too (even though it wasn't your 
original intent).

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> Actually there are quite a few of them out there now. There are 
>> the "open" replicas where the owner tells you that they are 

replicas 

>> (most of the owners of these are on the list - Brandys, Holler 

etc.). 

>> The more insidious ones are the George Barris replicas. Barris had 
>> nothing at all to do with the original movie cars, but is now 

making 

>> replicas that are in car museums all over the country. They ARE 
>> signed by him on the front fender, but generally the museum people 
>> seem ignorant that the cars are not actually from Universal or from 
>> the movie.
>> 





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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 23:07:52 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Maryland drive-in social?

Hello all,
Looking for folks in MD, Northern VA, or anyone who may be 
interested in getting together, and seeing BTTF at a drive-in. Of 
the very few still in existence, Alan Ackerman is actually building 
a new one! This would be a good time for all locals to meet and 
exchange stories without having to travel hours on end. Please see 
the below message and email me offlist if interested, I would like 
to get some type of headcount. Thanks

John
#7009


Mr. Macias:
Bumpers Drive-in Theater is under construction and will not be open 
till spring 2006, check www.bumpers-drivein.com for progress 
reports. HOWEVER, I have an operational drive-in theater in Bowie, 
Md. at the Baysox Stadium route 50 / 301 just outside of Annapolis. 
We set up in their parking lot and run the nations only digital 
drive-in theater with FM sound and an awesome bright picture. We 
operate all weekends when the baysox are away playing ball. We do 
not operate when there are home games. Check www.baysox.com click 
events and drive-in for the schedule or call 301-464-4806 the 24hr. 
movie line for the Bowie Baysox Drive-in Theater. Next weekend is 
Wizard of Oz and Grease on Sat. night, Friday night is the origonal 
Willy Wonka and The Sting. 
 
I hear your request for Back to the Future, We can do two things, 1. 
Book the drive-in just for your club and event if you can provide at 
least 200 cars as patrons, 2. or I can run Back to the Future on a 
regular movie night open to the public, we have 300 spaces for 
parking. We have an awesome concession stand with pit beef, Md. Lump 
crabcake sand. Hamburgers, hotdogs, italian S. with peppers and 
onions, popcorn, candy etc.... Our prices are low and much less than 
those hardtop indoor theaters. Carload pricing is $20.00 per car for 
a double feature, cartoons, music videos, Satellite Sporting Events, 
Concerts, or whatever we choose since we are 100% all digital 
picture and sound. Let me know your thoughts, we can work something 
out for this season...
 
Alan Ackerman
President
Bumpers Drive-in Theater
American Family Entertainment, LLC
410-549-7325 / Phone & Fax







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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 18:52:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Bad alternator?

When checking for bad grounds, I find it is easier to
look for voltage..  More accurate too.

In the DeLorean, for example...  Put all of the
accessories on.  Then, check the voltage from the
negative post on the battery to the inside seat belt
bolt.  If you have a volt or more reading, than there
is a bad ground between the battery and the frame.

You can do the same test (with longer meter leads)
from the negative battery post to the engine
(alternator is a good spot!).  Same thing, you should
have low to no voltage reading.


--- doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com wrote:


>>  
>> I'd say  anything more than a few tenths of an ohm
>> would be bad,  and most  
>> ohmmeters are not reliable down that low.  It should
>> read less than 1 ohm  for 
>> sure
>>  




		
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 





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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 20:47:47 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 1/18 Sunstar Model

If you go to see the Gold Delorean in the Museum in some state i cant 
remember the plaque in front of the car call's the Gold Delorean a LK 
Sport Coupe. I have a picture of it in my file if you want me to email 
it to you send me a email off list and i will send it to you.


Mark V



On Jul 24, 2005, at 8:25 PM, gullwingdoors wrote:


>> I bought a 1/18 Sunstar Model of the De Lorean DMC-12.  On the stand it
>> comes with it reads "1981 De Lorean LK".  What does the "LK" stand for?
>> I have not heard the De Lorean called that before.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Chuck
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>






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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 01:55:41 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds

It's based on pressure in the system. Depending on the vintage of the 
car, there are either one or two pressure switches in the freon 
system. All cars have a low pressure switch (the one on the bottle), 
cars after a certain point (not sure when but later than 3000?) have 
a high limit switch too. The cycling is caused by the low side of the 
system going low, or the high side of the system (condenser)going too 
high. Normal operation is the first case. The length of the cycle 
will depend on how hot it is outside and how high your blower (inside 
the car) fan is running. If it's exceptionally hot out the cycles 
will be very long, when it's below about 70 out it seems to be as 
short as 8-10 seconds. 

There is no relay running the compressor, it is run right off the 
limit switches. The clicking relays that people are talking about are 
the fan relays that are slaved via a diode from the limit switches.

If you don't have sufficient air flow thru the condenser (highly 
likely if you are having engine overheat problems too) your system 
pressure may be too high (bad for the compressor). In the later cars 
this will hit the high limit also causing the compressor to cycle, in 
earlier cars if it's bad enough you'll blow freon thru the relief 
valve (or worse - blow up hoses). You probably ought to put a 
pressure gauge on the system and see what the high and low pressures 
are at the compressor ports. 

What's the VIN on your car? Are you sure both fans are working, 
blowing in the right direction, and moving enough air? 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>> Please wllow me to hijack this thread for a moment....
>> My AC compressor seems like it is on all the time (when the AC is 

on)

>> the clutch doesn't cycle on and off, except when I turn the AC off.
>> Is this normal?
>> What tells the clutch to release on and off?
>> What should I check?
>> Is there a relay or sensor that operates this?
>> Thanks.
>> - VB
>> 
>
>>> >From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_h...>
>>> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>> >Subject: [DML] Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
>>> >Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 22:58:18 -0000
>>> >
>>> >Clicking is good, it means that the compressor is cycling on and
>>> >off.
>>> >Cycling on one second intervals usually means that you are low on
>>> >freon. I just had mine serviced (cycled every five seconds or so),
>>> >and now no more cycling.
>>> >
>>> >John
>>> >#7009
>>> >
>
>> 
>
>>> >








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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 18:57:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds

We discussed this on the other list Bob..

I told you, it is possible that when you recently
replaced your AC hose the system was not evacuated and
charged properly.

Assuming you have an earlier car that only has the
low-pressure switch, it is possible the high is WAY
TOO HIGH causing it to create extra heat in front of
the radiator.

Hook a gage set up to the AC and see of if both the
high AND low are where they should be (you calculate
it based on ambient air temperature... or use the
table in the service manual).

NO, the AC compressor should not stay on all the time



--- Videobob Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:


>> Please wllow me to hijack this thread for a
>> moment....
>> My AC compressor seems like it is on all the time
>> (when the AC is on)
>> the clutch doesn't cycle on and off, except when I
>> turn the AC off.
>> Is this normal?
>> What tells the clutch to release on and off?
>> What should I check?
>> Is there a relay or sensor that operates this?
>> Thanks.
>> - VB





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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 21:02:24 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling

Dave, The motor, as you know doesn't turn as a motor really does but just
makes a 180 degree turn back and fourth to open and close an air passage
way.
If you apply 12 volts to the terminals for say 5 sec or so with out
controlling the current you will burn it up. So there is 12 volts going to
it all the time when the key is on, but the ECU is controlling the current,
so it acts like it's on but it hasn't changed position until the micro
switch tell it to thru the ECU, that's my short explanation.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2005 3:33 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling




I've heard this before, that the engine should die if you unplug the idle
speed motor connector but I still don't understand why.  (Mine doesn't
die.)

As far as I knew the idle speed motor will stay in what ever position it
was
when it is unplugged.  Is this not the case?

If I unplug mine when the engine is idling slow it stays slow.  If I  unplug
it when the engine is idling fast, it stays fast.

I am not aware of any mechanism within the idle speed motor that closes  off
its passage way when power is removed.

Who else can shed more light on this?

Dē & 6530
Dave Delman


Message: 1
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 16:08:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling

If the motor still runs when you unplug the idle motor you have  vacuum
leaks or your throttle linkage is not adjusted correctly or both.  The
motor should stall when you pull the plug on the idle motor.  Check
that the brass screws are closed. Check the throttle plate  adjustments
that the throttle plates are closed all the way.
David  Teitelbaum
vin 1075




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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 21:09:52 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Bad alternator?

Dave, Actually any more that .1 ohm from the battery ground post to the
chassis will start making the resistance to high and have an effect on the
charging system.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2005 3:13 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Bad alternator?



I'd say  anything more than a few tenths of an ohm would be bad,  and most
ohmmeters are not reliable down that low.  It should read less than 1 ohm
for
sure

Dē & 6530

One other item nobody has mentioned yet is if you still have problems with
the battery being under charged after the alternator is replaced, it could
be a bad battery ground. When mine was bad, I had the same problems. You
can quickly test this by checking the resistance between the negative
battery cable and the frame. Anything more then a few ohms means the
connection is dirty.





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