Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2758
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:25 Jul 2005 18:22:18 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. Re: Bad alternator?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. head light switch
From: "jrc2905" <jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com>

5. Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
From: "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. * Reminder * Pittsburgh Summer Tech Session - Western PA - RSVP
From: Daniel Plakosh <dplakosh2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
From: "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Changing out vacuum hoses ---> Thermal Vacuum Switch -- where exactly is it?
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

9. RE: Re: Bad alternator?
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

10. Lambda Question
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>

11. RE: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

12. Re: Concours d'Elegance
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>

13. What's involved to change plugs/wires?
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

14. Re:Stainless Steel scratch removing product
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

15. Weird Clutch
From: jimbo0946_at_dml_aol.com

16. New D Owner - more repair questions
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>

17. Re: head light switch
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

18. Re: head light switch
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

19. Re: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Changing out vacuum hoses ---> Thermal Vacuum Switch -- where exactly is it?
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

21. Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. RE: What's involved to change plugs/wires?
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

23. Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: steering wheel lock - unlocked
From: "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl>

25. Hazard relay failure symptom?
From: "Joshua Weader" <weader_at_dml_moocow.org>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 21:14:23 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Air Condition at Highway Speeds

Could be the blower motor circuit breaker opening and closing due to over
heating. Also if you are under charged on freon or the cycling switch is old
or bad will also make them cycle more among other things.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of geoff_ombao
Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2005 1:26 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Air Condition at Highway Speeds


Greetings! Recently picked up an 82 DMC and am quickly finding out about
many of
its eccentricities ... the most recent one:

A clicking sound can be heard from the rear of the car when the air
conditioning
is on at
highway speeds (at perhaps one second intervals). Has anyone else noticed
this?




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 02:46:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Bad alternator?

It can be difficult to find the exact spot where you have a "bad
ground". The way to approach this problem is to just clean ALL the
grounding points. In many cases most of the weird or mysterious
problems will go away. For the remaining ones it will be easier to
diagnose and troubleshoot. The part that makes things weird is many
circuits may ground at the same point. If they are not grounded well
backfeeds on the ground wires to the other circuits can cause some
interesting effects! It is not always possible to see the voltage on a
ground wire. Especially if it is grounding through another circuit. In
Deloreans, since they are British, many circuits are controlled by the
"ground" side of the circuit. IE, the load is hot at all times and
does not operate till grounded. When another circuit can't get to
ground it can "back up" or backfeed into another circuit and it's
load. Things like turn signals in particular need good grounds to
function properly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> When checking for bad grounds, I find it is easier to
>> look for voltage..  More accurate too.
>> 
>> In the DeLorean, for example...  Put all of the
>> accessories on.  Then, check the voltage from the
>> negative post on the battery to the inside seat belt
>> bolt.  If you have a volt or more reading, than there
>> is a bad ground between the battery and the frame.
>> 
>> You can do the same test (with longer meter leads)
>> 







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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 02:33:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds

There could be several reasons you are not cycling:
Too much freon
incorrectly set low pressure switch
not enough airflow or blocked condensor coil
not enough airflow or blocked evaporator coil
Head pressure too high (either too much freon again or air in the system).
A contaminated system with a plugged orifice tube. 
The place to start is to get a set of gauges on the car and see what
the pressures are. You can also clean the coils (a good idea in any
case) and the A/C should stop when you pull the plug off the low
pressure switch. This confirms that at least the wiring is correct to
the switch. It is important that the system cycles. This is the way it
keeps from frosting the evap coil.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> We discussed this on the other list Bob..
>> 
>> I told you, it is possible that when you recently
>> replaced your AC hose the system was not evacuated and
>> charged properly.
>> 
>> Assuming you have an earlier car that only has the
>> low-pressure switch, it is possible the high is WAY
>> TOO HIGH causing it to create extra heat in front of
>> the radiator.
>> 
>> 







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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 04:20:22 -0000
From: "jrc2905" <jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: head light switch

Who do I cantact to be put on the list for the headlight switch?






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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 05:08:15 -0000
From: "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds

Interesting. The prior owner stated that he switched to the new eco-friendly refrigerant. 
Could this be causing the cycling?


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>> Clicking is good, it means that the compressor is cycling on and 
>> off. 
>> Cycling on one second intervals usually means that you are low on 
>> freon. I just had mine serviced (cycled every five seconds or so),
>> and now no more cycling.
>> 
>> John
>> #7009
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_y...>
>> wrote:
>
>>> > Greetings! Recently picked up an 82 DMC and am quickly finding out 
>
>> about many of
>
>>> > its eccentricities ... the most recent one:
>>> > 
>>> > A clicking sound can be heard from the rear of the car when the 
>
>> air 
>> conditioning
>
>>> > is on at
>>> > highway speeds (at perhaps one second intervals). Has anyone else 
>
>> noticed this?








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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 20:43:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel Plakosh <dplakosh2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: * Reminder * Pittsburgh Summer Tech Session - Western PA - RSVP

NOTE: If have not RSVP'd yet please do so soon. Thanks.
 
All,
The Pittsburgh Summer Tech Session will be held on Saturday August 6, 2005 starting at 9:00 AM. This is an excellent to opportunity to socialize with other D owners and get any needed work done on your car.
 
We're easy to find just off the route 60 Hopewell exit about 7 min. from the Pittsburgh Airport. We hope to see all the great people we've met at the previous tech sessions and hopefully a few new faces too! If your car is not ready to drive then just come and visit, we'd love to see you! We even have some room for anyone that wants to travel a bit and might want to spend the night.
 
We'll start off at 9a.m. (Coffee and pastries to open your eyes  :-) . Snacks along with beverages (including beer) during the day. Around 1:00 PM we'll have a cookout for lunch and a dinner cookout around 5:30 PM.  Please e-mail us off-list to confirm your attendance, and perhaps any work you'd like some help with, and let us know if you need directions. Significant others are welcome, and encouraged.. 
 
 
Hope to see you there!
Best regards,
 Dan and Judy
(Vin 3872) 


		
---------------------------------
 Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 05:22:44 -0000
From: "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds

Thanks for the info.

It has been exceptionally hot out, but fortunately my engine hasn't over heated thus far. I 
can hear at least one fan kicking on/off periodically, but don't know if both are working. 
The previous owner switched to the eco-friendly the refrigerant ... could this cause the 
problem?

Geoff
10718



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> It's based on pressure in the system. Depending on the vintage of the 
>> car, there are either one or two pressure switches in the freon 
>> system. All cars have a low pressure switch (the one on the bottle), 
>> cars after a certain point (not sure when but later than 3000?) have 







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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 01:00:55 -0500
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Changing out vacuum hoses ---> Thermal Vacuum Switch -- where exactly is it?

Just an update to my query...

With a little help, I now realize where the Thermal Vacuum Switch 
exactly was.  Will require me to remove the air induction / fuel 
distributor assembly to complete the vacuum hose renewal.  Saving this 
for the end of the driving season, since I have my D running pretty good 
right now.  I plan on doing a little TLC "while I am in there"... clean 
up the valley of death, replace the Thermal Vacuum Switch, who knows 
maybe even renew the fuel lines from the distributor with those nifty 
stainless braided ones...

Regards,
Wayne / VIN#2447
www.AA9DY.com


Wayne Wagner wrote:


>>After seeing the state of some of the vacuum hoses when trying to hunt 
>>down a vacuum leak, I decided it was time to replace them.
>>
>>Got around to changing most of the hoses today with the kit from 
>>SpecialTauto, and when I got to the Tee that joins the constant pressure 
>>regulator to the Thermal Vacuum Switch..... I find another Tee further 
>>along the path!
>>
>>I don't know why the system was mis-"hosed" the way I found it.  What I 
>>see is a vacuum hose from manifold to a Tee that supplies vacuum to the 
>>Vacuum Advance solenoid switch and the pressure regulator. 
>>Apparently the Thermal Vacuum Switch is totally bypassed, and I am not 
>>sure how deep I am supposed to dig to see it.  I have an idea where it 
>>supposed to approximately be from the manual, but I still cannot see 
>>it.  Any tips?
>>
>>Also, are there any negative aspects to running vacuum to the fuel 
>>pressure regulator all the time?  From what I understand... the Thermal 
>>Vacuum Switch should cut out vacuum to the pressure regulator when the 
>>engine is above +40C.
>>  
>>






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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 08:34:49 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: RE: Re: Bad alternator?


Me again - John, even 0.1 Ohm is way too much. 
Starter sucks at least 200A from the battery 
U=R*I -> 200A * 0.1Ohm = 20V ! Battery has only 12V !
The current would be limited to 120A and the position 
where this resistance occurs would glow...

Think more of something like 0.00x Ohms !

Not measureable with a regular DMM.

Elvis



>> 
>> Dave, Actually any more that .1 ohm from the battery ground post to the
>> chassis will start making the resistance to high and have an effect on the
>> charging system.
>> John Hervey
>> 


-- GMX DSL = Maximale Leistung zum minimalen Preis! 2000 MB nur 2,99, Flatrate ab 4,99 Euro/Monat: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/dsl ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 10 Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 03:02:45 -0400 From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net> Subject: Lambda Question After replacing the O2 sensor a few months back and resetting the lambda counter out of the blue my lambda light has come on which had never happened before. Does anyone have some experience with troubleshooting tips I can try to get this pesky little light off? Besides taking the bulb out of course! Thanks, Mike #3760 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 11 Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 08:29:29 +0200 (MEST) From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de> Subject: RE: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling Good try but not correct. The motor won't burn when you connect it directly to +12V because this situation can happen (almost)under normal use. (It's driven by a PWM and it won't really matter if it's 90% or 100% so it shouldn't burn at least not within a few seconds.) It's protected from overheating by its own resistance of the copper wires. The ECU is not controlling the current, what it does is telling 40% open(turn left) and 60% close (turn right) or any other values depending of the idle situation. Therefore it is possible that when you pull the connector one contact is disconnected before the other and it goes in one direction - so idle can go up or down or stay where it was. Elvis

>> Dave, The motor, as you know doesn't turn as a motor really does but just
>> makes a 180 degree turn back and fourth to open and close an air passage
>> way.
>> If you apply 12 volts to the terminals for say 5 sec or so with out
>> controlling the current you will burn it up. So there is 12 volts going to
>> it all the time when the key is on, but the ECU is controlling the
>> current,
>> so it acts like it's on but it hasn't changed position until the micro
>> switch tell it to thru the ECU, that's my short explanation.
>> John Hervey
>> www.specialtauto.com
>> 
>> 


-- GMX DSL = Maximale Leistung zum minimalen Preis! 2000 MB nur 2,99, Flatrate ab 4,99 Euro/Monat: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/dsl ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 12 Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 12:29:21 -0000 From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com> Subject: Re: Concours d'Elegance True to Sandor's words, his Delorean was amongst the finest Auto's in the world. I heard that the cars on display were by "invite only"?. Some of the cars were worth millions of dollars. I put Sandors name down for Peoples choice! Sandors D is awesome. Lowered, original wide decal along the side. Beautiful gray interior. Sandor was not by his car at the time I was there, however I did take notice at the true intrigue people had as that stopped to look at the car. "Its all stainless steel" "Back to the future""John Delorean" "Innovator". I have no idea how he kept that thing clean after a major rain event swept the area all morning. The ground was sopping wet churring up mud, all the cars were gleaming! go figure. Byron --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>> I will try and enter my Delorean as well. Very interesting event. 

I 

>> plan to attend regardless.
>> 
>> Byron
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>
>>> > If anyone happens to be in the Detroit area this weekend, there 

is 

>>> > going to be a great car show at Cranbrook in Bloomfield Hills, 

MI on 

>>> > Sunday. I was fortunate enough to get my car entered in the 

show, so 

>>> > the Delorean community will have representation among some of 

the 

>>> > finest marques in the world! I entered too late to be featured 

on 

>> the 
>
>>> > website, but it would be great if some D owners could make it 

out. 

>>> > Here is the website with all the info for the show: 
>>> > http://www.concoursatcranbrook.com/
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > Sandor
>>> > # 3002








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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 12:11:38 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: What's involved to change plugs/wires?

I am still hesitant to dig into engine work, but want to start 
replacing things like a few vacuum hoses that I can't access without 
dismantling some items.  I bought new silicon replacement kit, but 
there are three or four that I need to get to.  Also, I want to 
change plugs, wires, cap/rotor, etc, and have been a little 
intimidated to go in there.

I have already replaced brake master cylinder, calipers, clutch 
master cylinder, clutch line, etc, so I should feel more confident, 
but don't like suprises.  

The water pump is also original.  It doesn't leak yet, but in your 
opinion, is it worth taking the plunge and just go visit the so 
called "valley of death", and replace everything? What about fuel 
injectors/lines.

I've seen the water pump replacement procedures on the tech page, 
and believe I can handle it.  Are there any surprises to change 
plugs, wires, and the few vacuum hoses I have left?

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944







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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 08:02:17 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re:Stainless Steel scratch removing product

 
 
Here are some quotes from that article about the Stainless  Steel scratch 
removing product




"Scratch-B-Gone is a liquid chemical solution used with an abrasive  pad..."  
I'd be weary that it would change the look / shine / grain in the area you  
used it..  
Here is the price "The product will sell for $29.95 for a 3/4-ounce  
container. "  
Other quotes, " When consumers ask about scratches, experts typically  say to 
live with it or use a light abrasive pad to smooth out the scratch.  However, 
the latter can wear down the metal unevenly or ruin the finish of the  metal 
if done improperly."  
"Feinman started working in metal restoration 18 years ago, after he burned  
out on his career as a psychologist's assistant, he said." 
Does anyone know what a "psychologist's assistant" is?
Dē & 6530
Dave Delman


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 07:43:51 -0400
From: jimbo0946_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Weird Clutch

So during the winter months, I had a problem with my clutch.  If I let the car sit for a day, the clutch would lose pressure and you would have to pump it a few times to regain pressure.  Now that the weather is warmer, I get in my delorean and the clutch is fine.  I wanna take her up to PJ Grady for an overall check up anyway, but anyone know why this would happen?
 
Thanks,
Jimmy
VIN#15880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 13:50:25 -0000
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: New D Owner - more repair questions

After a heck of a trip home, the car has arrived and been worked on extensively this 
weekend. I have several issues now after repairs, and was wondering if anyone could help 
me solve them... 

- The horn doesnt work. I replaced all fuses/relays, and tested the wire going into the 
horn. No power at all when the horn is pressed. Any ideas? 

- The engine compartment light doesnt work. The bulb works fine, I tested it in the trunk, 
but when we put the trunk light in the engine compartment, the fuse blew. When I tried it 
with no bulb, the fuse blew. Right now it is only working with the right bulb in but no light 
is shining.  

- I repaired the mode switch leak, but the idle is still higher than I expected. Right now it 
is around 2000rpms. How can I tweak this to lower the idle if all other problems have been 
fixed? 

- Interior lights - The back dome light works when set on "door" mode, but there is no 
timer. The front light, when set on "door" mode, only comes on when the door is closed. 
Something screwy here? Any clues? 

So far I have added new fuses/relays, which fixed all instrument cluser gauges, and door 
lights. Took apart tail lights, cleaned contacts, replaced bulbs. Put on eyebrow fix, 
changed headlights. Installed an air bleeder kit, as well as the fan fail kit. Fixed leaky 
mode switch. Any help is appreciated, thanks.






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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 09:02:28 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: head light switch

Start with me.

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537
281/441-2813 Fax

jrc2905 wrote:

>> Who do I cantact to be put on the list for the headlight switch?
>> 





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 07:12:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: head light switch

Try:  http://delorean.com/headlightswitch_new.html
 
Regards,
Wayne / VIN#2447
www.AA9DY.com

jrc2905 <jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
Who do I cantact to be put on the list for the headlight switch?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 07:15:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds

eco-friendly??  Never heard of such a thing.   :) 

the PO probably switched from R-12 to R-134a..  More
for financial reasons than environmental reasons, but
that is a whole different discussion.

If the system was not flushed, and oil replaced then
it is possible you have damaged the compressor and
clogged the system.  R-134a also runs at higher
pressures, and have seen other DML'ers discuss making
other modifications to the system for conversion.  I
am not familiar with the details, because there has
never been a good reason to convert.

For anyone considering this now, check out the prices
of R-12 vs R-134a.  You will see, it is not worth it
to convert...  stick with R-12.



--- geoff_ombao <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:


>> Interesting. The prior owner stated that he switched
>> to the new eco-friendly refrigerant. 
>> Could this be causing the cycling?
>> 
>> 



		
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 14:48:03 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Changing out vacuum hoses ---> Thermal Vacuum Switch -- where exactly is it?

While in the Valley of Death be sure to clean out those deep pockets as 
coolant and other materials can cause deterioration over the years.  I know 
an owner who poked around a little in one of the deep pockets and he said a 
gyser of oil shot up out of it.  The block was removed and filled in and the 
engine runs perfectly but still a scary moment as you can imagine.

Also, I have experience with the SS Fuel line hoses from Special T Auto and 
install them on the cars I service here in NC.  I must say I AM most pleased 
with them.  Not only do they look great but at 1/3 the Diameter of the stock 
hoses accessing areas on the side of the intake and near the distributor are 
much easier not to mention the tune ups.  The bulky stock hoses are a 
nuisance and the SS ones make the tune up a breeze because they easily flex 
over to allow room to remove the spark plugs and wires.

I highly recommend them.  I believe the complete set is somewhere around 
$300 + but WELL worth the money!  They also look mighty attractive and I got 
lots of compliments for the lines at car shows here in town.  I was the only 
car out of about 100 (various makes) that had braided fuel injection lines.  
It was a big hit with the hot rodders.

Jeff in NC


>>From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [DML] Changing out vacuum hoses ---> Thermal Vacuum Switch -- 
>>where exactly is it?
>>Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 01:00:55 -0500
>>
>>Just an update to my query...
>>
>>With a little help, I now realize where the Thermal Vacuum Switch
>>exactly was.  Will require me to remove the air induction / fuel
>>distributor assembly to complete the vacuum hose renewal.  Saving this
>>for the end of the driving season, since I have my D running pretty good
>>right now.  I plan on doing a little TLC "while I am in there"... clean
>>up the valley of death, replace the Thermal Vacuum Switch, who knows
>>maybe even renew the fuel lines from the distributor with those nifty
>>stainless braided ones...
>>
>>Regards,
>>Wayne / VIN#2447
>>www.AA9DY.com
>>
>>


[moderator snip]





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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 15:12:55 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds

Should the fans stay on all the time when the AC is on? I somewhat 
remember mention of this in a past thread.
Previously, when my vehicle needed freon servicing, the fans cut on 
and off every five seconds or so, now after service, the fan fail 
light stays on the entire time the AC is running. Is this right?

John
#7009

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> We discussed this on the other list Bob..
>> 
>> I told you, it is possible that when you recently
>> replaced your AC hose the system was not evacuated and
>> charged properly.
>> 
>> Assuming you have an earlier car that only has the
>> low-pressure switch, it is possible the high is WAY
>> TOO HIGH causing it to create extra heat in front of
>> the radiator.
>> 
>> Hook a gage set up to the AC and see of if both the
>> high AND low are where they should be (you calculate
>> it based on ambient air temperature... or use the
>> table in the service manual).
>> 
>> NO, the AC compressor should not stay on all the time
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- Videobob Moseley <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>> 
>
>>> > Please wllow me to hijack this thread for a
>>> > moment....
>>> > My AC compressor seems like it is on all the time
>>> > (when the AC is on)
>>> > the clutch doesn't cycle on and off, except when I
>>> > turn the AC off.
>>> > Is this normal?
>>> > What tells the clutch to release on and off?
>>> > What should I check?
>>> > Is there a relay or sensor that operates this?
>>> > Thanks.
>>> > - VB







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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 14:56:03 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: What's involved to change plugs/wires?

Hmmm.

No surprises that I can think of.  Once the intake manifold is removed (only 
4 bolts) everything is right there in the open.  Special T Auto has a 
"common o-ring assortment kit" that includes two o-rings you need for the 
Y-Pipe.  If your water pump is original chances are the o-rings going into 
the block are too and I would DEFINITELY upgrade to new (silicon) hoses for 
the Water Pump and I myself bought the kit that eliminates the thin metal 
pipe under the y-pipe or you can buy the new SS one from John Hervey which I 
put on a few friends cars and they look great and will never rust like the 
stock ones.  My friend Jeremiah poked at an area of rust on his stock metal 
pipe with a box cutter and it went right through causing a big hole and of 
course required replacement of the pipe anyway.

The entire procedure is very simple for an experienced mechanic as I must've 
done this particular job maybe 6 times in the past 1 1/2 years.  Once the 
intake is off everything is pretty much out in the open.  Be cautious taking 
off the possibly corroded bolts that hold down the y-pipe.  Spray some P-B 
Blaster around them and wait about a half an hour before taking them off.  
I've only had a bolt in the Y-Pipe break off once on a friends car and not 
on any others.  Better safe than sorry.

Jeff in NC


>>From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] What's involved to change plugs/wires?
>>Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 12:11:38 -0000
>>
>>I am still hesitant to dig into engine work, but want to start
>>replacing things like a few vacuum hoses that I can't access without
>>dismantling some items.  I bought new silicon replacement kit, but
>>there are three or four that I need to get to.  Also, I want to
>>change plugs, wires, cap/rotor, etc, and have been a little
>>intimidated to go in there.
>>
>>I have already replaced brake master cylinder, calipers, clutch
>>master cylinder, clutch line, etc, so I should feel more confident,
>>but don't like suprises.
>>
>>The water pump is also original.  It doesn't leak yet, but in your
>>opinion, is it worth taking the plunge and just go visit the so
>>called "valley of death", and replace everything? What about fuel
>>injectors/lines.
>>
>>I've seen the water pump replacement procedures on the tech page,
>>and believe I can handle it.  Are there any surprises to change
>>plugs, wires, and the few vacuum hoses I have left?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Paul
>>Vin 10944





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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 15:37:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Air Condition at Highway Speeds

You must verify that BOTH fans are working, especially when running
the A/C. If the refrigerent is NOT R-12 it becomes even more important
 (and harder) to get the system to cycle properly. There is supposed
to be a label indicating the conversion, the amount of refrigerent,
and the pressures if you no longer use R-12.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Thanks for the info.
>> 
>> It has been exceptionally hot out, but fortunately my engine hasn't

over heated thus far. I 

>> can hear at least one fan kicking on/off periodically, but don't

know if both are working. 

>> The previous owner switched to the eco-friendly the refrigerant ...

could this cause the 

>> problem?
>> 
>> Geoff
>> 10718
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
>>> > It's based on pressure in the system. Depending on the vintage of the 
>>> > car, there are either one or two pressure switches in the freon 
>>> > system. All cars have a low pressure switch (the one on the bottle), 
>>> > cars after a certain point (not sure when but later than 3000?) have







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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 15:47:56 -0000
From: "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: steering wheel lock - unlocked

Thank you all for your advice.
I finally managed to unlock the steering lock. After removing the 
plastic housing, spraying even more WD40, hitting the lock housing 
(gently) with a hammer several times and continuously wiggling the 
steering wheel and the key, the lock finally budged. Just to be on 
the safe side, I'll try to remember never to lock it again. I am 
still pretty much clueless as to what happened, but I feel maybe 
David Teitelbaum is right about the state of lubrication of many of 
the car's parts. This lock took me four hours and a lot of swearing 
to unlock, so I suggest that all of you put a little WD40 in the 
ignition keyhole every now and then.

Joop Noordzij, VIN#3085


>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_x> wrote:
>
>>> > Hi all,
>>> > So far I have been without too much trouble with my D, but now 

my 

>>> > steering wheel lock seems to be stuck (in the locked position). 

I can 

>>> > put the key in, I can push the lock in for the customary 3 mm or 

so, 

>>> > but the lock will just refuse to become unlocked. The key won't 

turn. 

>>> > No matter what I try, wiggling the steering wheel, even pushing 

the 

>>> > column in and out, nothing helps. I looked in all of the past 
>>> > messages, but no one seems to have had the problem before, or 
>>> > mentioned a solution.
>>> > Any advice is appreciated.
>>> > 
>>> > Joop Noordzij, VIN#3085, The Netherlands







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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 11:55:28 -0400
From: "Joshua Weader" <weader_at_dml_moocow.org>
Subject: Hazard relay failure symptom?

Hi folks -

I'm trying to figure out whether I have a problem with the hazard relay or
with the wiring to the front parking lights.  When I turn the headlights on,
the passenger-side parking light is illuminated, but the drivers-side light is
out.  When I turn on the hazards, the opposite happens: the drivers-side light
flashes, but the passenger-side light is out.

The tail lights all behave as they should in both circumstances.  The left
directional also works correctly, but the right directional flashes at double
time (with the front light still completely out).

>From all of this, it sounds to me like I've got an issue in the wiring
somewhere, rather than an issue with the relay.  Has anyone else had symptoms
like this?

Thanks,

--Josh
#5553 

---------------------------------------------
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap,
ballot, jury, and ammo.  Please use in that order." - Ed Howdershelt





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