Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2770
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:29 Jul 2005 18:55:25 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Odd Starting Issue
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

2. RE: Brake Rotors
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. RE: DML Window Felt Replacement - Update?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. Re: Re: MONSTER GARAGE SUCKS!!!!!
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. re: fuel leak
From: "Mike Cohee" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>

7. Re: Modified DeLoreans
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. RE: Kyle -- (was: RE: Re: MONSTER GARAGE... )
From: Amy Gesch <heartdeloreans_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. RE: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: fuel leak
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

11. Missing service manual pages.
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

12. RE: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

13. Re: Re: DML Window Felt Replacement - Update?
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

14. Working on that warmup issue..
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Brake Rotors
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

16. Front End Work in MA
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

17. Window Tracks
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

18. Re: Re: Odd Starting Issue
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

19. RE: American/British/Irish/whatever
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

20. RE: fuel leak
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 01:35:22 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Odd Starting Issue

These are always difficult to diagnosis. Assuming you have a 
generally good tune on the car, there are some typical issues that 
can cause your symptoms.

Since you are "getting by" for now I would suggest a few simple 
checks before embarking on a major test or part swap campaign.

Check the ignition high-volt start circuit. Primarily the relay 
mounted on the firewall by the engine compartment light switch. It 
is often overlooked and if it is not functioning can cause a hard 
start. Interestingly, the relay does not show in any wiring diagram 
I've seen either. The circuit does but not the relay. If the ground 
to the engine for the relay is disconnected or weak the relay will 
not function and there is no hot spark voltage. So, check this relay 
and its wiring.

Check all the wiring to the coil and the voltage resistor - good 
connections are important here.

Swap out the RPM relay. If you don't have a spare you should have 
one - These can act up and there are a couple of versions - one 
being better than the other as you might suspect. See Hervey's web 
page for an explanation.

Run a cleaner in the fuel system. Selecting the right cleaner can be 
somewhat of a problem because some cleaners may be dangerous to the 
seals in the fuel system. I recommend Marvel Mystery Oil - the red 
stuff. I have used this stuff in D's for 20 years and it keeps the 
fuel system spotless - not to mention the intake valves and ports, 
etc. - spotless. It can also clean deposits from the internal check 
valves and improve the seal for a longer fuel pressure leak-down.

Harold McElraft - 3354




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_r...> wrote:

>> List:
>> 
>> I seem to be having an odd starting issue.  I have noticed that 

whenever the car is parked outside on a semi-hot day (75-85 *F) 
while I'm at work it will take significant cranking for the engine 
to catch (7-8 cranks) when I go to drive home.  But it does catch 
and runs just fine after that.  However, after the car has spent the 
night in the garage it will start up just fine in the morning on the 
first or second crank.  I have also noticed that hot starting is 
fine, just periodic cold-start issues during warmer weather.  The 
hotter the day, the harder the start.  I have replaced the fuel 
accumulator, the fuel pump with a new check valve and have verified 
that the cold-start valve is functioning as well as the thermal time 
switch.  Any thoughts?

>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Todd Nelson
>> 1561, Vermont
>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 22:08:33 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Brake Rotors

Bernie, The new rotors are on the web site.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Bernie
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 5:10 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Brake Rotors


Does anyone know where I can get a full set of brake rotors?  I need to
do a brake job and would like to replace the glazed rotors, turning
them is an option, but I prefer to replace with new.

DMCH only has the rear rotors, no fronts.  Or maybe an aftermarket
replacement brake kit that fits the DeLorean.

Thanks,

Bernie




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 22:30:36 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: DML Window Felt Replacement - Update?

Tom, I have a window felt sub.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Tom Tait
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 11:21 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DML Window Felt Replacement - Update?


The procedure on the tech page for replacing the window felts suggests
using an 89 Ford Probe part which is no longer available.  Has anyone
found a substitute part?  Its tough to "browse" for parts at a dealer.

I think its safe to say there are now more Deloreans on the road today
than Ford Probes.  Count yourselves as survivors gentlemen.  Maybe
unlucky Probe owners need to call DMCH for advice on Delorean parts they
may be able to retrofit into their cars.

Tom




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 21:22:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: MONSTER GARAGE SUCKS!!!!!

... You can't put 2 engines in a DeLorean.

Oh, Wait...

Nevermind.

 :) 


--- twinenginedmc12
<twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com> wrote:
<SNIP>

>> just plain wrong, in exactly the same way that the
>> people who 
>> said "mankind can't fly", "mankind can't build a
>> ship to go to the 
>> moon", "mankind can't swim underwater", people can't
>> possibly live 
>> longer than 30 years", "it's impossible to break the
>> sound 
>> barrier", "you can't travel around the world without
>> falling off" and 
>> so on...

<SNIP>


		
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 03:48:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling

You might want to jump further and go to "Fundamentals of Alternating
Current. A fluctuating DC is AC just with it's baseline moved up. You
can assume the coil to be a resistor but the #'s you come up with are
not going to be exact. When you test the coil on a battery it will be
with a steady DC so you can use the more simple DC calculations. They
will not work once you try to measure when the ECU is running the idle
motor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:

>> Read page 4.  A coil is not a resistor, it's an inductor.
>> Different math applies.
>> 
>> --
>> Mike
>> 
>> 
>> -------------- Original message from "Elvis Nocita"

<elvisnocita_at_dml_g...>: -------------- 

>> 
>> 
>
>>> > What ? 
>>> > I was as realistic as possible - I used the car's battery !!!! 
>>> > 
>>> > 12V not 12 amps ! 
>>> > 
>>> > amps is the current that will flow when a resistor is connected 
>>> > between the two poles of a voltage source. 
>>> > Ohm's law: R = U / I -> I = U / R 
>>> > 
>>> > U is fix (12.5V only battery and about 13.8V with engine running) 
>>> > Resistor of the motor is also fix = 14 Ohm. 
>>> > 
>>> > So the max current can be only 1A. 
>>> > 
>>> > Sorry but this is basic knowledge that is described in any 
>>> > basic electronics book on the first 2 or 3 pages. 
>>> > 
>>> > Elvis 
>>> > 
>
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 00:01:53 -0400
From: "Mike Cohee" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: re: fuel leak

Having lived through several fuel leaks you first need to see exactly where
it is leaking. It sounds like your accumulator hoses. There is no easy way
to work there unless you have a lift. Just back up on car ramps that you
trust and make sure car is secure. Slide your way to the center and you will
see the opening. More then likely one of your old soft fuel lines has a
leak. Any of the vendors sells the correct hoses. Hopefully the leak is not
any of the steel lines that snake through the car in that area. Look for
shiny metal fittings (from leaking fuel) as opposed to dirty old ones.
Another possibility if the leak is toward the rear of the car drivers side
is the fuel filter.  

Check on which of these is the source of the leak and we can tell you how to
proceed. If you have a phobia of working in tight spots then find a place to
get your car on a lift. Remember our fuel system operates under high
pressure so fuel leaks can be pretty nasty...


Mike Cohee
2109  









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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 21:30:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Modified DeLoreans

.... And how many DeLorean competitions has it won? 

  :) 


--- "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com> wrote:


>> Um, Ken?
>>      Didn't you trailer your car to places like
>> Memphis, the Fall 
>> Foliage Tour, Houston, and Pigeon Forge.  I am sure
>> you drove it 
>> once you were there, but did you really put the
>> miles on it to AND 
>> from yout house or was it pulled by the little truck
>> that could?
>> 
>> Matt
>> VIN 16816
>> Driven TO and FROM Memphis, Las Vegas, and
>> everywhere else....:)
>> 
>>



		
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 20:48:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Amy Gesch <heartdeloreans_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Kyle -- (was: RE: Re: MONSTER GARAGE... )

[Moderator Note: Please continue this discussion on a more suitable forum instead of the DML.  No more messages on this topic will be approved.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]

The Franklins put on some absolutely AMAZING airshows!  Jimmy was involved in the business for 38 years!  Bobby Younkin was also an incredibly skilled pilot; both will be dearly missed.  
 
Actually, Kyle is still working on the air show circuit; he is up at EAA AirVenture Oshkosh helping out Kent and Warren Pietsch with their show, specifically landing a 1942 Interstate Cadet on the top of an RV!!  Kyle acts as pseudo-arresting gear.  Pictures from Oshkosh here: http://www.fencecheck.com/forums/index.php/topic,1430.60.html  Also, a photo thread dedicated to Jimmy Franklin and Bobby Younkin: http://www.fencecheck.com/forums/index.php/topic,3285.0.html
Kyle is in fact one of the ground coordinators for the X Team (for whom his father and Bobby were flying), so he was right there on the ground that fateful day at Moose Jaw.  My deepest condolences are extended to the families and friends.  Messages can be sent to the families at www.xteamairshows.com following a link at the bottom of the page.
 
Sorry for getting us off topic!!  Just an area I'm familiar with . . .
 
      --Amy

Videobob Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
OMG that'as terrible... I had no idea.
Kyle had sent me a lot of videos of himself and and family doing amazing air 
show tricks
with thier planes, and even some using the DeLorean.
The stuff looked very dangerous.
I can't imagine what's going on with him right now, that's pretty 
devistating.
I hope he makes it through it OK, they have our support.
- VB

[moderator snip]




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 21:39:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling

To flat DC, a coil (inductor) is a resistor..  

Question is, does the ECU output flat DC??


--- mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net wrote:


>> Read page 4.  A coil is not a resistor, it's an
>> inductor.
>> Different math applies.
>> 
>> --
>> Mike
>> 
>>







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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 05:01:51 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: fuel leak

Bob - Very early in my DeLorean experience, I developed a very similar 
sounding leak ... while traveling through Deerlodge, Montana on a 
Sunday afternoon.  We had to drive straight through back to Seattle 
while dripping gas the whole time.  The leak turned out to be a split 
in a flared end on the hard fuel line that goes from the accumulator 
to the filter.  I simply had a high-pressure fuel hose made locally, 
and bypassed the cracked line.  I had no interest in lifting the body 
from the frame to replace the line.  If your leak is coming from the 
accumulator area, there really is no choice but to perform surgery 
through that small opening.  Good luck!

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Patz" <topgunster_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> I recently developed a fuel leak under the car near the center.
>> If it is coming from the fuel accumulator area, how do you get to it.
>> The small hole provided does not leave any room to work up there.
>> 
>> Have a Great Day!
>> Bob Patz - - - - - 808







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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 01:51:23 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Missing service manual pages.

Hi all.

I was wondering if any of you out there would be willing to scan and
email me copies of some of the pages of the service manual I seem to be
missing? I got the manual with my car, but it appears to also be as old
as the car is as well. I'm pretty sure i'm missing the last part of
section P. Also, is there supposed to be a section Q? My manual skips
straight to R after it talks about removal and installation of the
center console and knee pads. I really hate to order a new manual just
to replace a dozen pages or so, but I will if it comes to that.

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean/




--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.6/59 - Release Date: 7/27/2005






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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 09:04:33 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: RE: Re: Idle Speed Motor / Cooling


A coil at DC current behaves like a regular resistor.



>> 
>> Read page 4.  A coil is not a resistor, it's an inductor.
>> Different math applies.
>> 
>> --
>> Mike
>> 


-- GMX DSL = Maximale Leistung zum minimalen Preis! 2000 MB nur 2,99, Flatrate ab 4,99 Euro/Monat: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/dsl ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 13 Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 01:57:05 EDT From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com Subject: Re: Re: DML Window Felt Replacement - Update? In a message dated 7/28/2005 10:39:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu writes: I don't think you would have any problem locating it at your own local salvage yard, but at a dealer it may be more difficult.>> Or impossible, according to my local Ford dealer. Wayne 11174 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 14 Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 00:32:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com> Subject: Working on that warmup issue.. Ok here's something interesting. I enrichened the car once again to where the idle hunted - knowing that from here I could get in the car, floor the gas, and the acceleration would be perfect, as I explained in my earlier post (for those of you on the DML reading this - refer to http://dmchelp.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/36210319/m/850101771). NOW... I unhooked the "vacuum purge line" that goes from the coal canister to the bottom of the cold start valve. The car's idle smoothed out completely, and the acceleration when flooring the gas was perfect. Does this strengthen the theory of it being a vacuum leak? It makes sense, but I wanted to ask the "old wise men" =P. Jeremiah __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 15 Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 12:13:43 -0000 From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com> Subject: Re: Brake Rotors I'm not sure which vendors might have all of them. I did the brakes recently myself. I wanted to turn them and was also considering buying new ones, as the glaze on mine was so bad, I could've used them as bathroom mirrors! However, David Teitelbaum, suggested just sanding them with #80 grit sandpaper on a rotary drill attachment, just to break the glazed surface. Since I could only get two of the rotors off the car, I was easily able to sand them while on the car, making random circle patterns uniformly over the surface. Worked like a charm, and saved me a few hundred dollars. It removed the glaze, and gave me a very nice uniform "matte" surface. There were no deep gauges or grooves (which might warrant turning or new rotors). My new brakes and sanded rotors work excellent. Not a squeak to be heard. Good luck, Paul Vin 10944 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>> Does anyone know where I can get a full set of brake rotors?  I need 

to 

>> do a brake job and would like to replace the glazed rotors, turning 
>> them is an option, but I prefer to replace with new.
>> 
>> DMCH only has the rear rotors, no fronts.  Or maybe an aftermarket 
>> replacement brake kit that fits the DeLorean.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Bernie








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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 12:41:12 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Front End Work in MA

I just got four new balanced tires, but my front end still has a 
little shimmy at highway speeds (60 mph).  Does anyone know a reliable 
front end shop in MA that can take a look and give me an alignment, or 
is this a PJ Grady visit, eventually?

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944






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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 14:36:21 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Window Tracks

I recently repaired the plastic guides on my driver's side window with 
the large washer fix.  It now stays on the guide, but the window seems 
to be too far back to line up properly to close all the way without 
jamming against the rear part of the opening.  Can the metal tracks be 
gently bent to the make sure the window lines up with the opening as 
it closes?  

Thanks,

Paul






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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 07:49:27 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Odd Starting Issue

A-ha! so there are two of us with this exact same problem. I've been moaning 
on this list on this issue for a couple of years, and this is good stuff, 
Maynard.
My problem has increased in intensity (problem evident at lower and lower 
temperatures; it's now a problem in the upper 80's), and sometimes won't 
start unless I do the ole switcheroo for the usual hot-start problem.
I will check that relay and the wiring, though I don't think the wiring is 
it-- I've put in a new coil & resistor during these two years of issues and 
it was all inspected then. That relay though... and I do need to clean the 
ground again.

David, how does one verify the cold start valve? I don't think this one was 
mentioned back in May when I was asking for help last. and I still haven't 
done everything that mentioned then... so I can't moan too loudly. Todd, you 
may want to go back to May-June to read up on the discussions then. Google 
"hot outside" on the
groups.yahoo.com/dmcnews<http://groups.yahoo.com/dmcnews>site.
Keep us (especially me!) updated on what you find and I will do likewise 
(though I won't have time to play with it this weekend).

-Kevin
#4687

On 7/28/05, Harold McElraft <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:

>> 
>> These are always difficult to diagnosis. Assuming you have a
>> generally good tune on the car, there are some typical issues that
>> can cause your symptoms.
>> 
>> Since you are "getting by" for now I would suggest a few simple 
>> checks before embarking on a major test or part swap campaign.
>> 
>> Check the ignition high-volt start circuit. Primarily the relay
>> mounted on the firewall by the engine compartment light switch. It
>> is often overlooked and if it is not functioning can cause a hard 
>> start. Interestingly, the relay does not show in any wiring diagram
>> I've seen either. The circuit does but not the relay. If the ground
>> to the engine for the relay is disconnected or weak the relay will
>> not function and there is no hot spark voltage. So, check this relay 
>> and its wiring.
>> 
>> Check all the wiring to the coil and the voltage resistor - good
>> connections are important here.
>> 
>> Swap out the RPM relay. If you don't have a spare you should have
>> one - These can act up and there are a couple of versions - one 
>> being better than the other as you might suspect. See Hervey's web
>> page for an explanation.
>> 
>> Run a cleaner in the fuel system. Selecting the right cleaner can be
>> somewhat of a problem because some cleaners may be dangerous to the 
>> seals in the fuel system. I recommend Marvel Mystery Oil - the red
>> stuff. I have used this stuff in D's for 20 years and it keeps the
>> fuel system spotless - not to mention the intake valves and ports,
>> etc. - spotless. It can also clean deposits from the internal check 
>> valves and improve the seal for a longer fuel pressure leak-down.
>> 
>> Harold McElraft - 3354


[long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 10:41:16 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: RE: American/British/Irish/whatever

Why do you care so much about what other people think? 
 
I think the benefits of the De Lorean outweigh any drawbacks of it. For example, the fact that a good part of the car cannot rust, the gull-wings, reliable engine and transmission...the only drawback I can think of is that it only has two seats!
 
I think the De Lorean is cool because of its colourful history, its design, its publicity, the looks, and of course, the relation to BTTF....I dont see how its nerdy?
 
If you modernize it, you will kill it. It will not be a De Lorean.
 
Thomas Mc Auley
Vin #4087
Belfast
 


Videobob Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
"they" love our cars?

Let's all try a science experiment.
Next car show, set up a video or audio recrding device at the rear of the 
car,
hidden and out of site. Have the engine bay open with specs about the engine
clearly posted...then go hide and listen to the recording and see what 
people are
saying about the engine while looking at it.
Let's postpone this discussion until there is some scientific research in 
the field
to base theory on.
- VB

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 11:36:32 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: fuel leak

True there is not alot of room, especially if the car is on the ground or 
only lifted a few inches for access.  I replaced the Shift Pivot Bolt that 
goes through the Bellcrank on my former car and it was the first time I'd 
been to the area with the Accumulator.  If you can get the car up on a lift 
at an auto shop it would be alot easier as you can actually work quite well 
with plenty of room once the car is over your head.

Jeff



>>From: "Robert Patz" <topgunster_at_dml_delorean.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] fuel leak
>>Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 23:00:51 -0000
>>
>>I recently developed a fuel leak under the car near the center.
>>If it is coming from the fuel accumulator area, how do you get to it.
>>The small hole provided does not leave any room to work up there.
>>
>>Have a Great Day!
>>Bob Patz - - - - - 808





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