Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2774
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:1 Aug 2005 01:27:06 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Engine question-
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

2. RE: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

3. RE: Fuel filter/line questions
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

4. Replacing the fuel pump
From: "dmc01081" <rgoodwin2001_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

6. Re: Missing service manual pages.
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

7. R 12 Air Conditioning Refrigerant
From: "Robert J. Wilson" <rjwilson62_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. RE: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

9. DeLorean Dome Lights
From: "Robert J. Wilson" <rjwilson62_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Body pulling and water leak.
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

11. powdercoating
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

12. Re: 1983 Delorean For Sale
From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com

13. New De Lorean Font
From: "gullwingdoors" <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. RE: DeLorean Dome Lights
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>

15. Re: R 12 Air Conditioning Refrigerant - 609 certification
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

16. sheered bolts
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>

17. DCS Web Page Update
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

18. RE: New De Lorean Font
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. RE: powdercoating
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

20. Re: Dash mats....
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

21. Re: sheered bolts
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

22. RE: New De Lorean Font
From: Chuck McKnight <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: sheered bolts
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

24. Re: 1983 Delorean For Sale
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

25. Parts pickup in Arkansas
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 10:21:42 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Engine question-

A pop or a thud...    FROM WHERE? - trunk, engine compartment, passenger
seat, .......

could be.....
blown out spark plug
water in gas tank
bad fuel pump
plugged fuel filter
back fire
loose distributor shifted timing
loose sparkplug wire

Does the engine still idle smoothly?

Need more details to offer any more help.

Dave Sontos

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2005 10:58 PM
Subject: [DML] Engine question-



>> Driving home last night, I moderately accelerated away from a stop
>> light and heard a sound. A pop or a thud...I'm not exactly sure. I
>> have a lot of things in my trunk (returning from a waterpump party)
>> and figured it was the contents shifting around.
>>
>> Then I noticed that I'd lost 1/3 of my engine power and that the car
>> stumbles upon acceleration.
>>
>> Has anyone ever "heard" a headgasket blow out while driving? If so,
>> I'll have poor compression on a cylinder or cylinders right? I'm a
>> tired and frustrated so throw me a bone here.
>>
>> Oh, I replaced my headgaskets 2 years ago and have not overheated the
>> engine.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Rich A.
>> #5335
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

www.dmcnews.com

>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:56:51 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

I had a problem just like this on one of the cars I serviced.  It popped and 
ran really rough unless I aligned the distributor all the way over to one 
side of the alignment area.  The distributor was off by one tooth where it 
meets the camshaft.  I pulled the distributor and aligned the motor by hand 
(valve cover on the right side off to check valve movement and be sure the 
motor is on the right stroke) once I reinstalled the distributor the 
position of the rotor was a bit away from the center and I checked the 
timing after the car was running.  I had to move the distributor a few 
millimeters or so over once the car was running but we hit a perfect 13 
degrees and the car started and ran perfectly from then on out.

Be sure to use the 13 degree mark and not the 0 on the timing plate.  You 
can pick up a cheap timing light from any autoparts store.  Also when 
aligning the cranksahft pulley be sure your using the mark on the right of 
the pulley not the one to the left of it...that mark is for the number 6 
cylinder.

Jeff in NC

P.S. Also you may have to readjust your CO once the distributor is aligned 
properly.  CO balance is very inportant.  You can smell the exhaust and tell 
right away if it is too rich if it burns your eyes to be near it.  Also 
gauge the heat with your hand.  I don't personally know your mechanical 
ability but that's a trick I use.  An easier way to get proper CO if you 
don't have the device to measure it in the exhaust is to listen for the 
Frequency Valve.  It will cease to make a continuous buzzing noise if too 
rich.  play with the CO screw making 1/8 turns and listen to both the engine 
and the Frequency Valve when you hit the sweet spot it will be just below 
the sound of the valve cutting off as you rotate counterclockwise from 
richer to lean.  The instant the valve comes on and remains constant once 
the car is warmed off, stop and cover the access hole.  The car will run 
perfectly from that point out.

Unless you have a problem with the O2 Sensor and in that case replace or 
unplug.  Unplugging forces the car to a default rich mixture and the 
Frequency Valve buzzes to life.  We used that solution on a couple cars here 
in NC until they ordered a new O2 Sensor and they ran like a dream.


>>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
>>Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:09:40 -0000
>>
>>I'm still battling to get my engine running good, but encountered some
>>problems. The distributor is adjusted a little bit counter clockwise

>from the center line-the engine starts right up fast, but idle

>>condition is horrible with "popping" and rough running not to mention
>>vibrations. Adjusting the distributor so it is on the centerline will
>>give me the same results as described above, just a bit less popping.
>>When it is adjusted a slight bit clockwise over the centerline, the
>>engine runs so smooth and perfectly! BUT after the engine is off for 5
>>minutes it is hard to start, and letting it sit over night it won't
>>start at all the next morning. The only way to start it is with a
>>great deal of starting spray, or by unbolting the distributor and
>>adjusting it CCW. So instead of having a nice running engine, I run it
>>CCW to eliminate start-up problems but also have to deal with bad rock
>>and roll. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? Is
>>there something else I need to replace in order to get it to start
>>right up? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. #5003 (almost there)





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:03:43 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel filter/line questions

Personally I think the rubber line and clip to hold the line to the metal 
hose in the boot is done for convenience of removing the assembly as a whole 
by unhooking the rubber lines.  I would recommend upgrading the metal line 
going into the boot with a SS version the vendors sell.  I removed one from 
a car that was all rust along with the rest of the metal in the tank.

As far as melting the inside of the filter...check the line to the Fuel 
DIstributor.  I had a car that had this line sitting on the exhaust 
manifold.  I was surprised it was not melted through.  But this could cause 
heating of the filter through transfer as well.  I'm pretty sure that heat 
from the cooling fans can heat the gas tank a bit and thusly the fuel in the 
lines not to mention that heat is deflected in the compartment by the metal 
shields attached to the pontoon.  I'd just replace the filter and make sure 
you have a good one to replace it with.  Could afterall just be a defective 
filter.  I've never seen this problem but just throwing out some possible 
causes off the top of my head.

Jeff in NC



>>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Fuel filter/line questions
>>Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 05:30:15 -0000
>>
>>I was looking at the fuel filter I replaced today and noticed that
>>inside the inlet, the plastic was melted and bowed in. What could
>>cause such high temperature that the pastic would actually melt?
>>There's no extreme heat source near the filter, just a coolant pipe
>>which doesn't touch. Also, the fuel return line runs through the fuel
>>pump boot to a steel "L" shaped line, and then to a rubber line that's
>>directed into the baffle and clipped into place so it will flow to the
>>pick-up hose... Is this done for a reason? Or can I lose the rubber
>>line/clip? -----Dani B. #5003






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:38:08 -0000
From: "dmc01081" <rgoodwin2001_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Replacing the fuel pump

This question has probably been answered time and time again so I am 
really afraid to ask, but I do not want to damage or break any parts 
more then are necessary so I will ask anyway. What is the best way to 
replace the fuel pump? I have heard this not too complicated of a 
repair but can be tricky; any advice would greatly be appreciated.  I 
have removed the access panels in the trunk and stopped hoping I could 
rely on some "experience" from someone in the group before I got into 
some I should not.  Thanks for the help

Robert
#1081 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 16:12:41 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)


>>>>Are you using a timing light while you are making these adjustments?



-----No, I'm not this time. Adjusting the distributor centerline it 
runs 13 degress the last I checked. I'll do it again though. Is it 
not true that you can SLIGHTLY adjust the distributor with little 
effect on running quality ?



>>>>Moving the distributor like this changes the ignition timing. 



-----I know this.



>>>>You need to get it set at the proper spec, then find out the other 

reasons the car is not running right.


-----Thats the problem. I've had it set to proper specs, and when the 
engine is started first time of the day it will run smooth until it's 
warm. I've gone over everything (CPR, cold start valves, resistor, 
relays, rebuilt distributor, etc) or replaced parts (idle motor, idle 
motor pipes, idle ECU, fuel lines, spark plugs, splug wires, coil, 
cap & rotor, etc.) and the ONLY thing that makes the car run good is 
adjusting the distributor... Thats why I'm having such a hard time 
understanding whats wrong, all I want is a smooth running engine that 
can start right up. -----Dani B. #5003




>> 
>> 
>
>>> > I'm still battling to get my engine running good, but encountered 

some 

>>> > problems. The distributor is adjusted a little bit counter 

clockwise 

>>> > from the center line-the engine starts right up fast, but idle 
>>> > condition is horrible with "popping" and rough running not to 

mention 

>>> > vibrations. Adjusting the distributor so it is on the centerline 

will 

>>> > give me the same results as described above, just a bit less 

popping. 

>>> > When it is adjusted a slight bit clockwise over the centerline, 

the 

>>> > engine runs so smooth and perfectly! BUT after the engine is off 

for 5 

>>> > minutes it is hard to start, and letting it sit over night it 

won't 

>>> > start at all the next morning. The only way to start it is with a 
>>> > great deal of starting spray, or by unbolting the distributor and 
>>> > adjusting it CCW. So instead of having a nice running engine, I 

run it 

>>> > CCW to eliminate start-up problems but also have to deal with bad 

rock 

>>> > and roll. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? Is 
>>> > there something else I need to replace in order to get it to 

start 

>>> > right up? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. #5003 (almost there) 
>>> > 
>
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:26:11 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: Missing service manual pages.

Thanks alot George, I'll try to go through my manual tonight sometime
and email you the last page numbers I have in my manual for each section
and subsection, as well as a list of any pages I spot in the middle that
are obviously missing and that I need. Hopefully you can tell me which
sections I have that are cut short. I still think it's just the last
part of section P that I need, and possibly section Q if it exists
(Though I don't know why they would have skipped a letter since
eveyrthing else is alphabetical) but I seem to recall some missing pages
in the engine section as well.
.
Chris
VIN# 3209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean/

George Ryerson wrote:


>>I have all of the "D" service manual in digital format. Will be happy to
>>email any or all sections if you have a fast enough internet connection.
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
>>Of Qumefox
>>Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 2:51 AM
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Missing service manual pages.
>>
>>
>>Hi all.
>>
>>I was wondering if any of you out there would be willing to scan and
>>email me copies of some of the pages of the service manual I seem to be
>>missing? I got the manual with my car, but it appears to also be as old
>>as the car is as well. I'm pretty sure i'm missing the last part of
>>section P. Also, is there supposed to be a section Q? My manual skips
>>straight to R after it talks about removal and installation of the
>>center console and knee pads. I really hate to order a new manual just
>>to replace a dozen pages or so, but I will if it comes to that.
>>
>>Chris
>>VIN# 03209
>>http://badger.brazi.net/delorean/
>>
>>
>>



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 7/28/2005







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 17:30:11 -0000
From: "Robert J. Wilson" <rjwilson62_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: R 12 Air Conditioning Refrigerant

I have followed closely recent comments about the cost of R12 coming 
down and, in some cases, being less expensive than R 134.  The ads on 
e-bay say that they require a certificate to purchase R12.  Since I am 
interested in keeping my DeLorean "R12", what are the requirements to 
get a certificate to purchase R12 and how do I go about getting one?

Thanks for any information.

-rjwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:04:39 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Dani,

Borrow a timing light and adjust the distributor to stock specs. If that
resolves one of the symptoms then you can concentrate on the unresolved
issues at least knowing the base timing is correct. 

Rob Grady
-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
stainlessilusion
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2005 9:10 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

I'm still battling to get my engine running good, but encountered some
problems. The distributor is adjusted a little bit counter clockwise
from the center line-the engine starts right up fast, but idle
condition is horrible with "popping" and rough running not to mention
vibrations. Adjusting the distributor so it is on the centerline will
give me the same results as described above, just a bit less popping.
When it is adjusted a slight bit clockwise over the centerline, the
engine runs so smooth and perfectly! BUT after the engine is off for 5
minutes it is hard to start, and letting it sit over night it won't
start at all the next morning. The only way to start it is with a
great deal of starting spray, or by unbolting the distributor and
adjusting it CCW. So instead of having a nice running engine, I run it
CCW to eliminate start-up problems but also have to deal with bad rock
and roll. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? Is
there something else I need to replace in order to get it to start
right up? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. #5003 (almost there)




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 17:40:25 -0000
From: "Robert J. Wilson" <rjwilson62_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DeLorean Dome Lights

This is my day to post questions!  I keep my DeLorean in a building 
that I built that is about 4 miles from my home.  After reading some 
messages the other day, I drove out to the building with two things in 
mind.

1.  I was determined to pull on my "DeLorean tilt and telescope 
steering wheel".  I have used the tilt feature every time I drive the 
DeLorean.  I was sure that it did not "telescope".  I was totally and 
pleasantly surprised to find that after about 15 years of ownership, 
it telescoped easily.  It only moves about 1 1/2 inches but it does 
telescope!!!  It had not been telescoped in 15 years!

2.  I was determined to find the "second" of the two dome lights in 
the DeLorean cab.  I know about the "tilting" one in the center, just 
a few inches rearward of the windshield. (I have changed the bulb in 
it.)  I looked everywhere for the second one that is mentioned in the 
DMC news.  I never though I would ask for help in finding a dome light!
Is this not present prior to a certain serial number? (I have feeling 
that I just asked the world's dumbest question.)

Thanks for any help.

-- Bob Wilson






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:51:54 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Body pulling and water leak.

Hi all.

After thinking about this for several hours the other day while I was
pulling the last of the interior parts out of my D, (I discovered it had
had mice living in it at one time.. I even found a mouse nest under the
rear fascia.as well as several inside..:P I'm amazed the car didn't
stink. ) And I was thinking.. since I have to take half the interior out
to get to the inside body bolts, I might as well go ahead and forget the
phase one/phase two stuff I had planned on originally and just pull the
body now and do everything at once.  So here's my question. I'm asking
because I don't want to break anything else.(Every $500 over my budget I
figured will probably push the project back about six weeks) So I'm
asking what i'm forgetting here before I try to seperate the pontoon
from the frame.   So far I have 10 body bolts, clutch line, brake lines,
numerous electrical connections, bolts holding the radiator shroud to
the pontoon, parking brake cables, inside seatbelt bolts. Is there
anything else with the exception of the fuel tank/lines and pump, and
the AC evaporator and heater core?

Also.. Is there any way to pull the pontoon and get the AC evaporator
out of it without opening the AC system? I think they system is still
charged and if it is I'd rather not have to deal with recharging it
again even if it means more work to get the body pulled.  I'll hook the
gages to it this afternoon and check for freon pressure.. If the system
is empty then this question is moot.

Another question is, do I need to pull the gas tank as well or will it
drop with the frame?

Lastly, my next question isn't about pulling the body.. It's about the
green lake I have in the valley of death.. The previous owner said the
car needed a waterpump, but when I started looking at it closer and with
a flashlight, the water leak seems to be somewhere on top of the engine
and not the waterpump.. Anyone have any suggestions as to what could be
leaking? Could it be something as simple as a hose or a clamp or
something alot more severe. It's not a very fast leak. The cooling
system builds up pressure when the engine runs and seems  to be working
fine.  This question is kind of premature, as i'm not going to do much
to the engine until after I get the body off and the frame finished and
out of the way where I'll have room to work.


--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 7/28/2005






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:56:40 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: powdercoating

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone on the list could give me a rough example of
what it cost to have the frame and suspension parts media blasted and
powdercoated? I'm trying to decide if I want to go this route, or just
grind down the epoxy and rust on the few rusty spots my frame has,
reepoxy them, and just paint the whole thing.
Thanks

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean/



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 7/28/2005







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:22:40 EDT
From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: 1983 Delorean For Sale

Hey!
 
I'm here in jax as well, and would like to know what parts you have for  
sale. 
 
Thanks,
Russ
vin#1790
_motarhedd_at_dml_comcast.net_ (mailto:motarhedd_at_dml_comcast.net) 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:23:59 -0000
From: "gullwingdoors" <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: New De Lorean Font

Hi,
About a week ago I was asking about De Lorean fonts.  I finally 
concluded that "DMC" and "Rustproof Body" were the only ones 
available.  So I set out to make my own.  I finally found a font 
program to use that wasn't too expesive.  (it's actually a 30 day 
trial version, but that's OK since it only took me a week)  Anyway 
here the new font is for anyone who wants it.  (Just go to the Files 
section of DMC news and open the folder called De Lorean Font.)  
However, this is a pre-release version.  I am putting it here so that 
you can look at it and give me comments and suggestions to make it 
better.  Once I have gotten all the advice I need, I will fine-tune 
it and officially release it.  I ask that you please not distribute 
it until then so that a bunch of people will not get an outdated 
version.  The official release will be free to anyone and you may 
distribute it as you like.  Until then I will apreciate any comments, 
sugestions, or even criticism of it.

Chuck


P.S.  The new font is called "Gullwing Doors" (same as my screen 
name).  I hope this does not seem to show-off-ish, I just thought it 
fit the font well.






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:47:19 -0500
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: DeLorean Dome Lights

The rear domelight faces downward and is dead center just in front of the
trim wall under the rear window and will light up the package shelf if
working.  If for some reason, the back wall (the carpeted part that runs up
the back) is not all the way back, it may be covering the light.  It looks
identical to the one up front, and it works the same way.  If you were
looking up at a 45 degree angle from the center console towards the rear you
would see it.

KermitP
#4547

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Robert J. Wilson
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 12:40 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DeLorean Dome Lights

This is my day to post questions!  I keep my DeLorean in a building 
that I built that is about 4 miles from my home.  After reading some 
messages the other day, I drove out to the building with two things in 
mind.

1.  I was determined to pull on my "DeLorean tilt and telescope 
steering wheel".  I have used the tilt feature every time I drive the 
DeLorean.  I was sure that it did not "telescope".  I was totally and 
pleasantly surprised to find that after about 15 years of ownership, 
it telescoped easily.  It only moves about 1 1/2 inches but it does 
telescope!!!  It had not been telescoped in 15 years!

2.  I was determined to find the "second" of the two dome lights in 
the DeLorean cab.  I know about the "tilting" one in the center, just 
a few inches rearward of the windshield. (I have changed the bulb in 
it.)  I looked everywhere for the second one that is mentioned in the 
DMC news.  I never though I would ask for help in finding a dome light!
Is this not present prior to a certain serial number? (I have feeling 
that I just asked the world's dumbest question.)

Thanks for any help.

-- Bob Wilson






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:48:54 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Re: R 12 Air Conditioning Refrigerant - 609 certification

Do a web search on "609 certification". Several places have an online 
test and literature for $20 - $30. Download a 40 page (+/-) manual, 
study it, take a 25 question - open book test, get 21 questions
right, get your license.
http://www.macsw.org/macs.asp?mfurl=certify.html is one such site.
Stephen
Vin 3601







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 21:52:42 +0100
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
Subject: sheered bolts

I have looked in the archives and must be using the wrong keywords as I 
could find no results even though I am sure this has been discussed 
before....

I have taken my spoiler off as I need to remove the cowling/ducting that 
fits between the spoiler and the radiator.  The reason for this is that I 
need to remove it so that I can undo the hose that connects to the lower end 
of the condensor so that I can completely finish the aircon re-firbishment.

As I was undoing the spoiler several of the threaded shafts sheered off as I 
was undoing the rusty nuts.  It looks like the thread was somehow bonded 
into the plastic spoiler.  The same thing happened with the grill.

Can anyone help with suggestions from this point?

Chris H
vin 5255 looking a little bit not all there for now... 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 16:52:25 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DCS Web Page Update

Gary Just updated the DeLorean Car Show Web page and we added a lot of new  
pictures along with updating any changes or additions
_www.deloreancarshow.com_ (http://www.deloreancarshow.com) 
 
 
Hope you enjoy
 
Thanks Gary 
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 16:03:19 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: New De Lorean Font

What is wrong with the two "DeLorean" fonts that are you there, and what is 
it that you plan to do to improve them?
What will be better about them?
- VB


>>From: "gullwingdoors" <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] New De Lorean Font
>>Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:23:59 -0000
>>
>>Hi,
>>About a week ago I was asking about De Lorean fonts.  I finally
>>concluded that "DMC" and "Rustproof Body" were the only ones
>>available.  So I set out to make my own.  I finally found a font
>>program to use that wasn't too expesive.  (it's actually a 30 day
>>trial version, but that's OK since it only took me a week)  Anyway
>>here the new font is for anyone who wants it.  (Just go to the Files
>>section of DMC news and open the folder called De Lorean Font.)
>>However, this is a pre-release version.  I am putting it here so that
>>you can look at it and give me comments and suggestions to make it
>>better.  Once I have gotten all the advice I need, I will fine-tune
>>it and officially release it.  I ask that you please not distribute
>>it until then so that a bunch of people will not get an outdated
>>version.  The official release will be free to anyone and you may
>>distribute it as you like.  Until then I will apreciate any comments,
>>sugestions, or even criticism of it.
>>
>>Chuck
>>
>>
>>P.S.  The new font is called "Gullwing Doors" (same as my screen
>>name).  I hope this does not seem to show-off-ish, I just thought it
>>fit the font well.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:19:13 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: powdercoating

Hmmm, an entire frame prepped an coated will cost a good few bucks.  There 
is a local powdercoater I used here and it cost about $100 or so to do a 
valve cover set and his work honestly wasn't that good.

The price of PC'ing is going to vary depending on the size of the part and I 
doubt an entire frame will fit into one of their prepping tanks so it will 
definitely have to be done by hand.  Spraying the coating is alot like 
paitning with a spray gun and then it gets baked as you know.  I can't see 
it costing over a couple grand but then remember the quote that you get what 
you pay for.  Shell out a decent amount of money and you'll get a great 
job...get it done cheap you'll get a cheap job.  Unless you have a hookup.  
 :) 

The DeLorean, in my opinion, is definitely worth the money to have it done 
right.

Jeff in NC


>>From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] powdercoating
>>Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:56:40 -0500
>>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>I was wondering if anyone on the list could give me a rough example of
>>what it cost to have the frame and suspension parts media blasted and
>>powdercoated? I'm trying to decide if I want to go this route, or just
>>grind down the epoxy and rust on the few rusty spots my frame has,
>>reepoxy them, and just paint the whole thing.
>>Thanks
>>
>>Chris
>>VIN# 03209
>>http://badger.brazi.net/delorean/





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:51:42 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Dash mats....

Alex,
I was in the same situation where my dash was in great shape and I wanted 
to keep it that way (didn't like the thought of it baking in the sun while 
I was at work or driving). The dash mat I purchased used velcro strips to 
hold it in place. Since I didn't want these strips showing when I remove 
the mat, I decided to keep it place using another method. On the drivers 
side, I just used gravity since the contour of the dash and binnacle keeps 
it in place. For the passenger side, I bent a flat piece of metal so it 
would hook the defrost vent. I then attached some velcro to the metal. This 
keeps the mat from sliding off.

I've done this for nearly two years and the dash still looks great 
underneath the mat. I can't comment on the mold issue since my car only 
gets wet when I wash it.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 03:45 AM 7/31/2005 +0000, you wrote:

>>Aloha,
>>I was wondering if there is any harm in using a dash mat on my delorean?
>>The dash itself is in perfect condition and I just wanted to keep it that
>>way.  I read a dmcnews post from 2000 that said it would be bad to use a mat
>>but I couldn't understand why.  Any thoughts?
>>-Alex






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:36:02 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: sheered bolts

All of the studs on the spoiler can be drilled out, then you just use 
nuts and screws. For the grille drill out the old ones, get some 
screws of the right size and have someone weld them back in place. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>> I have looked in the archives and must be using the wrong keywords 

as I 

>> could find no results even though I am sure this has been discussed 
>> before....
>> 
>> I have taken my spoiler off as I need to remove the cowling/ducting 

that 

>> fits between the spoiler and the radiator.  The reason for this is 

that I 

>> need to remove it so that I can undo the hose that connects to the 

lower end 

>> of the condensor so that I can completely finish the aircon re-

firbishment.

>> 
>> As I was undoing the spoiler several of the threaded shafts sheered 

off as I 

>> was undoing the rusty nuts.  It looks like the thread was somehow 

bonded 

>> into the plastic spoiler.  The same thing happened with the grill.









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 17:15:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chuck McKnight <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: New De Lorean Font

There is nothing really wrong with the other fonts.  They are just not quite exactly the same as the official De Lorean logo.  I am not saying that mine is exactly the same either, but I think I got it a bit closer.  I also tried to make the other letters that were not taken directly from the logo stay true to the letters I did take.  In other words I tried to make all the letters match together well.  Also, as an added bonus, my font is 2 KB less memory than "Rustproof Body" and 8 KB less memory than "DMC".  Other than that, all I can say is, take a look at it, and tell me what you think.  If you don't like it, don't download it.
 
 
Thanks for your questions.
 
Chuck

 
P.S.  I hope I have not offended whoever made the other two fonts.  That would certainly not have been my intent.

Videobob Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
What is wrong with the two "DeLorean" fonts that are you there, and what is 
it that you plan to do to improve them?
What will be better about them?
- VB


>>From: "gullwingdoors" 
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] New De Lorean Font
>>Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:23:59 -0000
>>
>>Hi,
>>About a week ago I was asking about De Lorean fonts. I finally
>>concluded that "DMC" and "Rustproof Body" were the only ones
>>available. So I set out to make my own. I finally found a font
>>program to use that wasn't too expesive. (it's actually a 30 day
>>trial version, but that's OK since it only took me a week) Anyway
>>here the new font is for anyone who wants it. (Just go to the Files
>>section of DMC news and open the folder called De Lorean Font.)
>>However, this is a pre-release version. I am putting it here so that
>>you can look at it and give me comments and suggestions to make it
>>better. Once I have gotten all the advice I need, I will fine-tune
>>it and officially release it. I ask that you please not distribute
>>it until then so that a bunch of people will not get an outdated
>>version. The official release will be free to anyone and you may
>>distribute it as you like. Until then I will apreciate any comments,
>>sugestions, or even criticism of it.
>>
>>Chuck
>>
>>
>>P.S. The new font is called "Gullwing Doors" (same as my screen
>>name). I hope this does not seem to show-off-ish, I just thought it
>>fit the font well.






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:23:10 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: sheered bolts

I've got the same problem.  I haven't got around to thinking about how to 
fix this because I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild.  Hopefully someone 
has come up with an easy and inexpensive fix VS. buying a new spoiler..

Lingo #2034

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>; <doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 3:52 PM
Subject: [DML] sheered bolts



>>I have looked in the archives and must be using the wrong keywords as I
>> could find no results even though I am sure this has been discussed
>> before....
>>
>> I have taken my spoiler off as I need to remove the cowling/ducting that
>> fits between the spoiler and the radiator.  The reason for this is that I
>> need to remove it so that I can undo the hose that connects to the lower 
>> end
>> of the condensor so that I can completely finish the aircon 
>> re-firbishment.
>>
>> As I was undoing the spoiler several of the threaded shafts sheered off as 
>> I
>> was undoing the rusty nuts.  It looks like the thread was somehow bonded
>> into the plastic spoiler.  The same thing happened with the grill.
>>
>> Can anyone help with suggestions from this point?
>>
>> Chris H
>> vin 5255 looking a little bit not all there for now...






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:47:24 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: 1983 Delorean For Sale

I do not have any parts for sale. What made you think that did?
  ----- Original Message ----- I
  From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com<mailto:motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com>  
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 3:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [DML] 1983 Delorean For Sale


  Hey!
   
  I'm here in jax as well, and would like to know what parts you have for  
  sale. 
   
  Thanks,
  Russ
  vin#1790
  _motarhedd_at_dml_comcast.net<mailto:_motarhedd_at_dml_comcast.net>_ (mailto:motarhedd_at_dml_comcast.net<mailto:motarhedd_at_dml_comcast.net>) 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 01:17:44 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Parts pickup in Arkansas

Is anyone a reasonable distance from Hartman, Arkansas?

I would pay a reasonable fee for someone to pick up some Ebay items 
for me from him.

Please contact me offline.

Thanks,

Rich A.
#5335







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------