Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2777
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:2 Aug 2005 22:19:57 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DML tips works!
From: "Mads de Bruin" <debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl>

2. Ignition Coils
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

3. Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

4. Re: Backwards temp gauge
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

5. Re: Re: OEM Carpets and aftermarket carpets(was: Musty odor)
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Re: Followup on transmission flange seal fix
From: Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_discordia.org>

7. Re: Followup on transmission flange seal fix
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: NC Gathering
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

9. Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

10. Re: Cleaning Fuel Injectors
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

11. Re: Cleaning Fuel Injectors
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

12. Re: Backwards temp gauge
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

13. RE: Cleaning Fuel Injectors
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. Re: Followup on transmission flange seal fix
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

15. Re: Ignition Coils
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

16. Door Strut Length
From: "Harold Dzugashvelie" <gryerson_at_dml_se.rr.com>

17. Coil Cover
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

18. Is my radio dead?
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Fascia Repair
From: "Nikita" <inanna_rules_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 08:56:06 -0000
From: "Mads de Bruin" <debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl>
Subject: DML tips works!

This weekend I replaced the passenger seatbelt. Thanks to the tip I 
read on the DML it was a fairly easy job. I used a hot air gun to get 
the side trim loose from the door. This worked like a charm!
Yesterday I used the tip of tightening the bulbholders to the 
printplate of my taillights with little screws. And this did also 
worked great. Now my rearlights constantly work and I don't have to hit 
it to work.  ;-) 
Also instead of one rear break light left and one right, all four of 
them work.
Just wanted to let you all now that these simple tips helped me a lot 
and make me a happy man now.

Mads de Bruin
Netherlands
Vin#02010






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 12:39:14 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Ignition Coils

Is there a significant difference with the high performance ignition 
coils, versus the stock Bosch coil?  I will be tuning up these parts 
in a few weeks.  Unless there is a big difference, I'd prefer stock 
coil, as I don't have to change the resistor.

Thanks,

Paul
vin 10944







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 08:20:39 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Check the vacuum hose connections at the thermal switch and solenoid. 
Sounds like you got one of them backwards.  There's a technical bulletin 
on this.
Warren at DMC

stainlessilusion wrote:

>> Thank you Jeff Friday. Good thing you told me to check the timing,
>> must have been around 40 degrees (!). So I adjust it back to 13, it
>> idles smooth, and so far has been starting up quickly (tomorrow
>> morning is the ultimate test). Also readjusted CO. But it now back
>> fires more anytime you let off the gas (it backfired before but not
>> nearly as much), AND I'm lacking serious power- I'd step on the gas
>> before and the car would boogie, now it's sluggish. I changed the
>> advance diaphram last year so I know that it's good (will double check
>> tomorrow), vac lines are silicone. Any suggestions? Thanks again!
>> -----Dani B. #5003
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_m...>
>> wrote:
>> 
>
>>>>I had a problem just like this on one of the cars I serviced.  It
>
>> 
>> popped and 
>> 
>
>>>>ran really rough unless I aligned the distributor all the way over
>
>> 
>> to one 
>> 
>
>>>>side of the alignment area.  The distributor was off by one tooth
>
>> 
>> where it 
>> 
>
>>>>meets the camshaft.  I pulled the distributor and aligned the motor
>
>> 
>> by hand 
>> 
>
>>>>(valve cover on the right side off to check valve movement and be
>
>> 
>> sure the 
>> 
>
>>>>motor is on the right stroke) once I reinstalled the distributor the 
>>>>position of the rotor was a bit away from the center and I checked the 
>>>>timing after the car was running.  I had to move the distributor a few 
>>>>millimeters or so over once the car was running but we hit a perfect 13 
>>>>degrees and the car started and ran perfectly from then on out.
>>>>
>>>>Be sure to use the 13 degree mark and not the 0 on the timing plate.
>
>> 
>>  You 
>> 
>
>>>>can pick up a cheap timing light from any autoparts store.  Also when 
>>>>aligning the cranksahft pulley be sure your using the mark on the
>
>> 
>> right of 
>> 
>
>>>>the pulley not the one to the left of it...that mark is for the
>
>> 
>> number 6 
>> 
>
>>>>cylinder.
>>>>
>>>>Jeff in NC
>>>>
>>>>P.S. Also you may have to readjust your CO once the distributor is
>
>> 
>> aligned 
>> 
>
>>>>properly.  CO balance is very inportant.  You can smell the exhaust
>
>> 
>> and tell 
>> 
>
>>>>right away if it is too rich if it burns your eyes to be near it.  Also 
>>>>gauge the heat with your hand.  I don't personally know your mechanical 
>>>>ability but that's a trick I use.  An easier way to get proper CO if
>
>> 
>> you 
>> 
>
>>>>don't have the device to measure it in the exhaust is to listen for the 
>>>>Frequency Valve.  It will cease to make a continuous buzzing noise
>
>> 
>> if too 
>> 
>
>>>>rich.  play with the CO screw making 1/8 turns and listen to both
>
>> 
>> the engine 
>> 
>
>>>>and the Frequency Valve when you hit the sweet spot it will be just
>
>> 
>> below 
>> 
>
>>>>the sound of the valve cutting off as you rotate counterclockwise from 
>>>>richer to lean.  The instant the valve comes on and remains constant
>
>> 
>> once 
>> 
>
>>>>the car is warmed off, stop and cover the access hole.  The car will
>
>> 
>> run 
>> 
>
>>>>perfectly from that point out.
>>>>
>>>>Unless you have a problem with the O2 Sensor and in that case
>
>> 
>> replace or 
>> 
>
>>>>unplug.  Unplugging forces the car to a default rich mixture and the 
>>>>Frequency Valve buzzes to life.  We used that solution on a couple
>
>> 
>> cars here 
>> 
>
>>>>in NC until they ordered a new O2 Sensor and they ran like a dream.
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>>>>>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>>>>>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>>>>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>>>>>Subject: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
>>>>>>Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:09:40 -0000
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I'm still battling to get my engine running good, but encountered some
>>>>>>problems. The distributor is adjusted a little bit counter clockwise
>>
>>>>
>>>>>from the center line-the engine starts right up fast, but idle
>>>>
>>
>>>>>>condition is horrible with "popping" and rough running not to mention
>>>>>>vibrations. Adjusting the distributor so it is on the centerline will
>>>>>>give me the same results as described above, just a bit less popping.
>>>>>>When it is adjusted a slight bit clockwise over the centerline, the
>>>>>>engine runs so smooth and perfectly! BUT after the engine is off for 5
>>>>>>minutes it is hard to start, and letting it sit over night it won't
>>>>>>start at all the next morning. The only way to start it is with a
>>>>>>great deal of starting spray, or by unbolting the distributor and
>>>>>>adjusting it CCW. So instead of having a nice running engine, I run it
>>>>>>CCW to eliminate start-up problems but also have to deal with bad rock
>>>>>>and roll. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? Is
>>>>>>there something else I need to replace in order to get it to start
>>>>>>right up? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. #5003 (almost there)
>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 08:18:30 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Backwards temp gauge

The worst case means a new gauge with attendant binnicle removal. 
There's worse problems.  BUT, see if you can take the spacer and knob 
off of the trip reset and wiggle an unbent paper clip or something in 
thru' that hole in the lens and pop the needle back over the stop. 
Careful not to break the trip reset shaft.  That would escalate the 
problem from funny to annoying.
Warren at DMC


Ryan Wright wrote:

>> I was working on my horn tonight, screwed up in testing and blew the
>> fuse to the horn. When it happened, the needle on my temp gauge
>> flipped around. I replaced the fuse and reminded myself to be more
>> careful, but now the temp gauge needle is backwards - pointing toward
>> the speedometer. If I turn the ignition on, it moves like it should,
>> but points down and to the right.
>> 
>> Any thoughts? Is this something that can be corrected, or did my
>> carelessness just cost me a new instrument cluster?
>> 
>> -Ryan
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 09:01:06 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: OEM Carpets and aftermarket carpets(was: Musty odor)

Looking forward to the new molded carpets. The new carpets will be first  
generation DeLorean carpets. When do you think you can offer second generation  
carpets?
 
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
 
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 10:01:48 -0400
From: Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_discordia.org>
Subject: Re: Re: Followup on transmission flange seal fix

I just did this on my car a couple of weeks ago. The pulley slid off  
easily once the nut was removed. No puller required.

On Aug 2, 2005, at 12:13 AM, stainlessilusion wrote:


>> I believe it's 36mm. I got mine at advance auto, both impact and
>> regular 36mm sockets. Haven't tried to pull the pulley, I needed the
>> socket to turn the crank, was planning on replacing the seal behind
>> the pulley but turned out to be something else leaking so I never had
>> to pull the pulley. I'm sure you'll need a puller though. I have yet
>> to work on an [undamaged] engine where the crank pulley just slides
>> right off. -----Dani B. #5003
>>
>>
>>  BUT -- what
>>
>
>>>> is the nut size on the main crank? I'll need to swing by and pick
>>>>
>
>> up
>>
>
>>>> the proper socket for my impact wrench, and I'd like to ensure I
>>>>
>
>> get
>>
>
>>>> the right one the first time. Is a pulley puller needed to get the
>>>> pulley off after the nut is removed or is it held in plce by the
>>>>
>
>> nut
>>
>
>>>> only (not pressed on)?
>>>>
>>>> For those that are wondering what kind of POS I'm working on, it's
>>>> my daily driver that has roughly 175,000 miles on it. I think
>>>>
>
>> having
>>
>
>>>> to replace a transmission flange seal after that kind of use seems
>>>> pretty reasonable. I finally replaced my original Moto alternator a
>>>> couple weeks ago as well, and I'm pretty satisfied getting 175K
>>>> miles of service out of it. After having my friend's Porsche on my
>>>> lift this weekend, I have really come to appreciate how serviceable
>>>> our DeLoreans are.
>>>>
>>>>     Knut
>>>>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see  
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http:// 
>> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 14:07:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Followup on transmission flange seal fix

Before you do the seal on the crank pulley check the blow-by. Pull the
oil cap off while the motor is running and see if there is much back
pressure. Normally the crankcase is under negative pressure. If the
engine has a lot of blow-by (from wear) the vacuum will not be enough
to create the negative pressure and you start to see leaks. One thing
to check is the metering orifice on the air tube where the hose
connects from the oil cap. If it gets dirty and plugged up you won't
get enough vacuum on the crankcase. You could also try enlarging it
but you will probably affect idle quality. Another thing to try is
going up a weight on your oil. With that mileage and the summer heat
you may be running a little thin. Of course you may still have a worn
seal (especially at that mileage). It is easier if you remove the
muffler and heat shield and even easier if you remove the rear facia!
In fact removing the facia is the only way you will be able to use an
impact gun on it. The other way to try it is to get a long breaker bar
on it and slam it with a hammer. It should come loose but then you
have to get a puller on it and there isn't enough room with the facia
in the way.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> I believe it's 36mm. I got mine at advance auto, both impact and 
>> regular 36mm sockets. Haven't tried to pull the pulley, I needed the 
>> socket to turn the crank, was planning on replacing the seal behind 
>> the pulley but turned out to be something else leaking so I never had 
>> to pull the pulley. I'm sure you'll need a puller though. I have yet 
>> to work on an [undamaged] engine where the crank pulley just slides 
>> right off. -----Dani B. #5003
>> 
>> 
>>  BUT -- what 
>
>>> > is the nut size on the main crank? I'll need to swing by and pick 
>
>> up 
>
>>> > the proper socket for my impact wrench, and I'd like to ensure I 
>
>> get 
>
>>> > the right one the first time. Is a pulley puller needed to get the 
>>> > pulley off after the nut is removed or is it held in plce by the 
>
>> nut 
>
>>> > only (not pressed on)?
>>> > 
>>> > For those that are wondering what kind of POS I'm working on, it's 
>>> > my daily driver that has roughly 175,000 miles on it. I think 
>
>> having 
>
>>> > to replace a transmission flange seal after that kind of use seems 
>>> > pretty reasonable. I finally replaced my original Moto alternator a 
>>> > couple weeks ago as well, and I'm pretty satisfied getting 175K 
>>> > miles of service out of it. After having my friend's Porsche on my 
>>> > lift this weekend, I have really come to appreciate how serviceable 
>>> > our DeLoreans are. 
>>> > 
>>> >     Knut









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 14:22:38 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: NC Gathering

Oh yeah, I forgot about the last one you guys did.  I wasn't able to attend 
that one.  The one BEFORE that was in Charlotte.

MY bad,

Jeff in NC


>>From: DeLorean5000_at_dml_comcast.net
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [DML] NC Gathering
>>Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 23:52:03 +0000
>>
>>
>>Hi Barry,
>>      The NC gathering in May was at my house in Winston-Salem, NC.  It was 
>>organized by Louie Golden in Charlotte, NC.  The majority of the owners 
>>that day were from the Charlotte area.  We decided to have it in W-S, b/c I 
>>had plently of room for the cars and the neighbors didn't mind that we 
>>tinker with the cars.  We had a cookout, driving tour on country back 
>>roads, and worked on cars until 11:00 pm!  All attendees were mailed a DVD 
>>documenting the days events, compiled and edited by my sister.  I think 
>>everyone had a good time.  We could have easily had 3 more cars that day, 
>>but the other 3 owners had previous plans.  There is not a formal club at 
>>this point in NC, but one may be materializing soon?  Active members on the 
>>DML may choose to do another meet sometime in the near future.  
>>Unfortunately I will not be able to attend the next one, if it happens this 
>>year.  Maybe next year?
>>
>>Regards,
>>Darren Decker
>>#5000
>>-------------- Original message --------------
>>
>
>>> > Was just wondering where the May 2005 gathering of 6
>>> > Deloreans was in NC? There are several owners here in
>>> > southwest VA who would like to get together with other
>>> > owners not too far away; NC might be do-able.
>>> >
>>> > Barry Hartman
>>> > Roanoke, VA
>>> > #10597
>>> > barryh334_at_dml_hotmail.com
>>> >
>>> > __________________________________________________
>>> > Do You Yahoo!?
>>> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
>>> > http://mail.yahoo.com
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>> > moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>> >
>>> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>
>>www.dmcnews.com
>
>>> >
>>> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
>>> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>
>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 14:20:33 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Glad I could help.

Next the CO adjustment can be a bit tricky but here's how I was taught to do 
it a few years ago.  With the car running adjust the CO down till the car 
almost dies.  If it dies it's okay just turn the screw back up a pinch and 
restart.  Then slowly move up unitl you hear the Frequncey Valve chirp in a 
very quick and steady pulse.  Cover the hole and wait a few minutes whiloe 
the car stabilizes.  Continue to do so and the car's idle will hold at the 
apropriate range and the car will run very smooth.

I'd go ahead and double check all your vacuum lines just in case.  I had a 
car I worked on where the vacuum lines going into the Vacuum Solenoid were 
reversed once they were switched it did wonders for the car.

Hope this info continues to help you.

You can safely adjust the CO to a richer mixture but remember if the system 
is working properly the frequency valve will start to cut out the moment you 
pass the "sweet spot" go down until it chirps constantly again and then just 
a hare under that setting the car should run like a dream after that.

Jeff in NC

I had backfiring issues when I first got the car running again and it was 
the CO.  If it's too low it will backfire and appear sluggish.  This is most 
likely your problem.  If you're having trouble with your O2 Sensor you can 
unplug to "default enrich" your mixture via the Frequency Valve.  This quick 
fix has helped a few cars around here get back on the road.


>>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
>>Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 01:20:23 -0000
>>
>>Thank you Jeff Friday. Good thing you told me to check the timing,
>>must have been around 40 degrees (!). So I adjust it back to 13, it
>>idles smooth, and so far has been starting up quickly (tomorrow
>>morning is the ultimate test). Also readjusted CO. But it now back
>>fires more anytime you let off the gas (it backfired before but not
>>nearly as much), AND I'm lacking serious power- I'd step on the gas
>>before and the car would boogie, now it's sluggish. I changed the
>>advance diaphram last year so I know that it's good (will double check
>>tomorrow), vac lines are silicone. Any suggestions? Thanks again!
>>-----Dani B. #5003
>>
>>
>>
>>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_m...>
>>wrote:
>
>>> > I had a problem just like this on one of the cars I serviced.  It
>
>>popped and
>
>>> > ran really rough unless I aligned the distributor all the way over
>
>>to one
>
>>> > side of the alignment area.  The distributor was off by one tooth
>
>>where it
>
>>> > meets the camshaft.  I pulled the distributor and aligned the motor
>
>>by hand
>
>>> > (valve cover on the right side off to check valve movement and be
>
>>sure the
>
>>> > motor is on the right stroke) once I reinstalled the distributor the
>>> > position of the rotor was a bit away from the center and I checked the
>>> > timing after the car was running.  I had to move the distributor a few
>>> > millimeters or so over once the car was running but we hit a perfect 13
>>> > degrees and the car started and ran perfectly from then on out.
>>> >
>>> > Be sure to use the 13 degree mark and not the 0 on the timing plate.
>
>>  You
>
>>> > can pick up a cheap timing light from any autoparts store.  Also when
>>> > aligning the cranksahft pulley be sure your using the mark on the
>
>>right of
>
>>> > the pulley not the one to the left of it...that mark is for the
>
>>number 6
>
>>> > cylinder.
>>> >
>>> > Jeff in NC
>>> >
>>> > P.S. Also you may have to readjust your CO once the distributor is
>
>>aligned
>
>>> > properly.  CO balance is very inportant.  You can smell the exhaust
>
>>and tell
>
>>> > right away if it is too rich if it burns your eyes to be near it.  Also
>>> > gauge the heat with your hand.  I don't personally know your mechanical
>>> > ability but that's a trick I use.  An easier way to get proper CO if
>
>>you
>
>>> > don't have the device to measure it in the exhaust is to listen for the
>>> > Frequency Valve.  It will cease to make a continuous buzzing noise
>
>>if too
>
>>> > rich.  play with the CO screw making 1/8 turns and listen to both
>
>>the engine
>
>>> > and the Frequency Valve when you hit the sweet spot it will be just
>
>>below
>
>>> > the sound of the valve cutting off as you rotate counterclockwise from
>>> > richer to lean.  The instant the valve comes on and remains constant
>
>>once
>
>>> > the car is warmed off, stop and cover the access hole.  The car will
>
>>run
>
>>> > perfectly from that point out.
>>> >
>>> > Unless you have a problem with the O2 Sensor and in that case
>
>>replace or
>
>>> > unplug.  Unplugging forces the car to a default rich mixture and the
>>> > Frequency Valve buzzes to life.  We used that solution on a couple
>
>>cars here
>
>>> > in NC until they ordered a new O2 Sensor and they ran like a dream.
>>> >
>>
>>>> > >From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>>>> > >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>>> > >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>>> > >Subject: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
>>>> > >Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:09:40 -0000
>>>> > >
>>>> > >I'm still battling to get my engine running good, but encountered some
>>>> > >problems. The distributor is adjusted a little bit counter clockwise
>>
>>> > >from the center line-the engine starts right up fast, but idle
>>
>>>> > >condition is horrible with "popping" and rough running not to mention
>>>> > >vibrations. Adjusting the distributor so it is on the centerline will
>>>> > >give me the same results as described above, just a bit less popping.
>>>> > >When it is adjusted a slight bit clockwise over the centerline, the
>>>> > >engine runs so smooth and perfectly! BUT after the engine is off for 5
>>>> > >minutes it is hard to start, and letting it sit over night it won't
>>>> > >start at all the next morning. The only way to start it is with a
>>>> > >great deal of starting spray, or by unbolting the distributor and
>>>> > >adjusting it CCW. So instead of having a nice running engine, I run it
>>>> > >CCW to eliminate start-up problems but also have to deal with bad rock
>>>> > >and roll. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? Is
>>>> > >there something else I need to replace in order to get it to start
>>>> > >right up? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. #5003 (almost there)
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 14:25:05 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Fuel Injectors

Paul

These things are easy enough to change, little bit fiddly on the left 
hand side of the engine due to the ISM  ( Idle Speed Motor )and Cold 
Start pipe etc being in the way but not difficult at all , if you 
move the ISM  out of the way first this off first. If you are going 
to replace the spart plug wires and plugs at the same time then all 
the better that way you can route them all back 'nice and tidy' to 
the fuel dist and distributer cap. 

Well worth following this site for the procedure, print off and 
follow the steps one by one and dont mess up when each wire and hose 
goes too  :) . 


http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html 

Water pump repalacement is a more in depth job, personally i would 
leave it for a winter project , but dont leave it until it starts to 
leak, which after 25 years on an origional one...it will!  :) 

Kind Regards

Mike Bosworth
#2001

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:

>> Thanks for the replies on this issue.  If I change them, are the 
>> injectors and lines easy to replace, or are there suprises when I 
>> get in there.  I plan to change plugs and wires on a few weeks.  If 
>> I can change the injector components at the same time, I'll so it.  
>> 
>> Also, I have original waterpump.  It's not leaking, and the car has 
>> 27,000 miles on it.  Do I chnage this while I am at it, or should I 
>> leave well enough alone?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul
>> Vin 10944
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
>
>>> > I'll second this...I have never seen a cleaned set that will 
>
>> perform
>
>>> > as well as a new set. This is based on experience with my own 
>
>> DeLorean
>
>>> > as well as having seen customers cars come in "having just been
>>> > cleaned) and with an invoice from the company that did the work.
>>> > 
>>> > As an aside, I have an older 928 with the CIS injection, and it's 
>
>> the
>
>>> > same with those injectors, too.
>>> > 
>>> > James Espey
>>> > DMC (Texas)
>>> > http://www.delorean.com
>>> > 800/USA-DMC1
>>> > 
>>> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_v...> 

wrote:

>>>> > > Paul,
>>>> > > Here's my two cents on this topic.
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > If those are the original fuel injectors don't bother wasting 
>
>> time
>
>>> > or money
>>
>>>> > > on cleaning them. I tried cleaning mine first, and they were 
>
>> pretty bad,
>
>>>> > > which did help. I wasn't thrilled still on the performance of 

the

>>> > engine and
>>
>>>> > > then replaced mine with new injectors. That made the biggest
>>
>>> > difference in
>>
>>>> > > idle and running.









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 10:56:10 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Fuel Injectors

The injectors and fuel lines are very easy to change, remember to do one
line at a time and you will have no problem. Make sure you use new copper
washers on all of the connections and also get new injector seals and clips
while your at it.

The waterpump replacement is a job for experienced mechanics. You WILL break
off bolts and they will need to be drilled out. If you proceed with the
waterpump replacement, changing the distributor cap, rotor, and sparkplug
wires at the same time is the way to go. I believe there is a waterpump
instructions in the tech section on the DMC site. If you do it yourself part
time plan on the car being down three to four weeks.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Cleaning Fuel Injectors



>> Thanks for the replies on this issue.  If I change them, are the
>> injectors and lines easy to replace, or are there suprises when I
>> get in there.  I plan to change plugs and wires on a few weeks.  If
>> I can change the injector components at the same time, I'll so it.
>>
>> Also, I have original waterpump.  It's not leaking, and the car has
>> 27,000 miles on it.  Do I chnage this while I am at it, or should I
>> leave well enough alone?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Paul
>> Vin 10944
>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
>
>>> > I'll second this...I have never seen a cleaned set that will
>
>> perform
>
>>> > as well as a new set. This is based on experience with my own
>
>> DeLorean
>
>>> > as well as having seen customers cars come in "having just been
>>> > cleaned) and with an invoice from the company that did the work.
>>> >
>>> > As an aside, I have an older 928 with the CIS injection, and it's
>
>> the
>
>>> > same with those injectors, too.
>>> >
>>> > James Espey
>>> > DMC (Texas)
>>> > http://www.delorean.com
>>> > 800/USA-DMC1
>>> >
>>> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_v...> wrote:
>>
>>>> > > Paul,
>>>> > > Here's my two cents on this topic.
>>>> > >
>>>> > > If those are the original fuel injectors don't bother wasting
>
>> time
>
>>> > or money
>>
>>>> > > on cleaning them. I tried cleaning mine first, and they were
>
>> pretty bad,
>
>>>> > > which did help. I wasn't thrilled still on the performance of the
>>
>>> > engine and
>>
>>>> > > then replaced mine with new injectors. That made the biggest
>>
>>> > difference in
>>
>>>> > > idle and running.
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

www.dmcnews.com

>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 10:59:04 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Backwards temp gauge

Turn the ignition key on and with a small piece of fine wire, thread the
wire through the trip counter reset hole by the speedometer and gently give
the needle a push to the left. It should jump back to its original position.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
To: <DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>; <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 12:10 AM
Subject: [DML] Backwards temp gauge



>> I was working on my horn tonight, screwed up in testing and blew the
>> fuse to the horn. When it happened, the needle on my temp gauge
>> flipped around. I replaced the fuse and reminded myself to be more
>> careful, but now the temp gauge needle is backwards - pointing toward
>> the speedometer. If I turn the ignition on, it moves like it should,
>> but points down and to the right.
>>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 10:28:24 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Cleaning Fuel Injectors

Paul,
I have cleaned about 100 sets of injectors and about 75% of all injectors
I clean and return to the customer are spraying with a good pattern and the
holding pressure, opening pressure and drip are in spec. ( $69.95 for the
set )
I will also add that if you would like for me to clean yours and they don't
come out with a good pattern and or the pressure isn't right to open them,
then there is no charge for the cleaning towards the purchase of a new set
of injectors with new boots. You be the judge.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Dave Sontos
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2005 3:22 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Cleaning Fuel Injectors


Paul,
Here's my two cents on this topic.

If those are the original fuel injectors don't bother wasting time or money
on cleaning them. I tried cleaning mine first, and they were pretty bad,
which did help. I wasn't thrilled still on the performance of the engine and
then replaced mine with new injectors. That made the biggest difference in
idle and running.

Your fuel hoses are plastic and over twenty years old. You can do the risk
assessment. REPLACE THEM.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573

----- Original Message -----
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2005 12:56 PM
Subject: [DML] Cleaning Fuel Injectors



>> When I change plugs and wires next month, I would also like to clean
>> my fuel injectors, if it's easy to do so.  Are these difficult to
>> remove - do I have to watch frozen threads, etc.?  I have an
>> ultrasonic cleaner that I can use.  Also, how important is it to
>> replace fuels lines?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Paul
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

www.dmcnews.com

>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 15:40:44 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Followup on transmission flange seal fix

Thanks for the insights.

36mm sounds familiar... I'll have to check my toolchest when I get 
home, but that wouldn't by chance be the same size as the spindle nut?

   Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> I believe it's 36mm. I got mine at advance auto, both impact and 
>> regular 36mm sockets. Haven't tried to pull the pulley, I needed the 
>> socket to turn the crank, was planning on replacing the seal behind 
>> the pulley but turned out to be something else leaking so I never 

had 

>> to pull the pulley. I'm sure you'll need a puller though. I have yet 
>> to work on an [undamaged] engine where the crank pulley just slides 
>> right off. -----Dani B. #5003










________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 15:43:24 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Ignition Coils

Some coils are 1.7 ohm or 1.5 or near. The stock coil is .7 ohm- and 
so is the MSD coil. If you use the MSD coil you will increase your 
voltage and be safe with the stock resistor. I've had the MSD coil 
with 8mm wires on my car for years, no problems. -----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:

>> Is there a significant difference with the high performance ignition 
>> coils, versus the stock Bosch coil?  I will be tuning up these parts 
>> in a few weeks.  Unless there is a big difference, I'd prefer stock 
>> coil, as I don't have to change the resistor.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul
>> vin 10944







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 16:10:40 -0000
From: "Harold Dzugashvelie" <gryerson_at_dml_se.rr.com>
Subject: Door Strut Length

Some months ago I bought a door strut from one of the well known 
DeLorean parts suppliers. Just now I finally have time to begin 
putting it on and have discovered something that is troublesome.

The new strut, when fully extended ( which of course it is all the 
time due to gas pressure ) is about an inch longer than the one 
presently on the passenger door. This is when the door is lifted as 
high as it can be made to go.

The problem is that since the new strut can't be easily compressed, 
I'm not sure I can get it on since it's longer than the one presently 
installed on the door.

I'd sure appreciate hearing some thoughts on this.








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 10:18:46 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Coil Cover

Any one on the list have a used 81 coil cover that they want to part  
with? I was looking at the parts listed on ebay and there is a late  
model coil cover with the backing plate for it listed as a battery box.
Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX

http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 18:13:01 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Is my radio dead?

Yesterday I just got the tags for my DeLorean.  I drove it to work then 
home.  On my way home I had the original Craig Stereo on.  I turned it 
off just to listen to the car go up the road.  When I turned the stereo 
back on, it stayed on for a few seconds, then shut off as if I turned 
it off.  I was thinking, "maybe a fuse blew."  Today, I checked all of 
the fuses in the fuse box and the two inline fuses behind the stereo.  
All were ok.  Is my radio dead?

Thomas
VIN:2953






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 20:17:37 -0000
From: "Nikita" <inanna_rules_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fascia Repair

Hello All,
     My front fascia was damaged a bit when I hit a deer and I need 
help to repair it. When I am driving down the road (sometimes when 
it's parked as well) one really can't see the damage, but there is a 
split just behind the grill. When I hit the deer, the grill flew off 
and landed about 50' in front of the car. I picked it up and put it 
back on the car. However, it is, now, only held on by 2-3 of the 
rivet holes, instead of the 8.
     If you see the damage, it is a real testament to the 
durability of our car. I have had a number of people tell me that I 
was lucky. I agree with them  :) . 

     I can't really afford to take it to a body shop, and the damage 
is in an area that is unnoticable when you see her. I know there has 
to be a way to repair her. I am a model builder by trade, so I'm 
sure that I could do it myself, I just don't know where to get the 
proper adhesive, and other supplies that may be required to fix the 
split.

     One body shop that I went to estimated the cost of repair to be 
$300-500. And that was to do a job that didn't make it too perfect. 
Y'know the gray paint not matching exactly and still showing 
some 'seams' since the grill is going to be covering the repair 
anyway. But that was just the "estimate". He wasn't certain how much 
it would really cost. And you people know how repair personnel love 
to charge for working on a D, eh? lol. I've worked on mine and they 
are a pain to work on sometimes, so I can understand some of the 
costs. Mainly the time.

     Anyway, I need to know where I can get some adhesive and 
anything else that I haven't thought of, to fix my fasia. Can anyone 
please help? 

     Thanks in advance.






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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