Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2778
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:3 Aug 2005 18:28:42 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Door Strut Length
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

2. Castrol GT LMA
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>

3. Re: Followup on transmission flange seal fix
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

4. Re: Castrol GT LMA
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

5. RE: Cleaning Fuel Injectors
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

6. Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

7. Removing Injector Supports
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

8. California DeLorean Owners-Corona Del Mar Car Show
From: "ocdelorean" <director_at_dml_deloreanmagazine.com>

9. RE: Ignition Coils
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Re: Castrol GT LMA
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

11. Re: Castrol GT LMA
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

12. Re: Re: Followup on transmission flange seal fix
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

13. Re: YEESSSSSSSSSS!!!!!
From: "Andrew" <acey_at_dml_usa.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 17:02:22 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Door Strut Length

The door will go much further than the strut will let it.  Without the 
strut, I can hold the door completely above my head, and I'm 6' tall.  Of 
course, at that height it starts to rub the roof panel.  In theory, I 
could flip the door over to the other side of the car and crush the roof 
panel, but it's just too darn heavy.

I believe the replacement strut you bought was make to be as long as 
possible in order to provide maximum clearance under the open door. 
However, some owners have reported that the struts were too long even when 
fully compressed, resulting in bent posts.  If the strut end are threaded, 
make sure they are screwed in all the way..twist the shaft inside of the 
piston if you must..  If you're really concerned, measure the distance 
between the posts when the door is closed, and then compare it to the 
compressed length of the new strut.

When in doubt, contact the supplier that sold you the part.


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, Texas




>> The new strut, when fully extended ( which of course it is all the 
>> time due to gas pressure ) is about an inch longer than the one 
>> presently on the passenger door. This is when the door is lifted as 
>> high as it can be made to go.
>> 
>> The problem is that since the new strut can't be easily compressed, 
>> I'm not sure I can get it on since it's longer than the one presently 
>> installed on the door.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 19:47:57 -0400
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>
Subject: Castrol GT LMA

Would anyone know of any chain store (Walmart, Partsource, etc) where they
sell the proper Dot 4 fluid Castrol GT LMA for the clutch can be found? The
reason I ask is because I live in Niagara Falls Ontario, and I can't find
any place in Canada that carries it. It would be much simpler to head over
to NY State (about 2 miles away) to pick some up. I figured I could save a
couple of hours of hunting if I knew where to start.

BTW - I know it's available on-line but I was hoping to get some before the
weekend.

- Mike Walsh
#17084





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 02:16:19 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Followup on transmission flange seal fix

The spindle nuts are either 31mm or 32mm, I'm leaning more towards 
32mm though, I can't quite remember exactly. -----Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_i...> 
wrote:

>> Thanks for the insights.
>> 
>> 36mm sounds familiar... I'll have to check my toolchest when I get 
>> home, but that wouldn't by chance be the same size as the spindle 

nut?

>> 
>>    Knut
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
>>> > I believe it's 36mm. I got mine at advance auto, both impact and 
>>> > regular 36mm sockets. Haven't tried to pull the pulley, I needed 

the 

>>> > socket to turn the crank, was planning on replacing the seal 

behind 

>>> > the pulley but turned out to be something else leaking so I never 
>
>> had 
>
>>> > to pull the pulley. I'm sure you'll need a puller though. I have 

yet 

>>> > to work on an [undamaged] engine where the crank pulley just 

slides 

>>> > right off. -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 22:44:12 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Castrol GT LMA

Pep Boys carries it here in Florida.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mike Walsh<mailto:mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net> 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 7:47 PM
  Subject: [DML] Castrol GT LMA


  Would anyone know of any chain store (Walmart, Partsource, etc) where they
  sell the proper Dot 4 fluid Castrol GT LMA for the clutch can be found? The
  reason I ask is because I live in Niagara Falls Ontario, and I can't find
  any place in Canada that carries it. It would be much simpler to head over
  to NY State (about 2 miles away) to pick some up. I figured I could save a
  couple of hours of hunting if I knew where to start.

  BTW - I know it's available on-line but I was hoping to get some before the
  weekend.

  - Mike Walsh
  #17084





  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
  moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com<mailto:moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

  For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com<http://www.dmcnews.com/>

  To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews> 
  Yahoo! Groups Links



   




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 03:04:21 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Cleaning Fuel Injectors

Just a quick note guys.

John Hervey cleaned the injectors for my former car as well as Andy Grums 
DeLorean.  I think Andy had maybe 1 that needed replacing and mine all came 
out great with only one that was just barely under spec but VERY REUSABLE 
(75% pattern on the one and FULL SPRAY on the other 5.)

If I had the money I woulda replaced both injector sets because I love new 
parts however, when you're in a financial pinch cleaning the injector set is 
an economical and AFFORDABLE alternative.

It's AMAZING how clean these rusted injectors come back.  Both sets looked 
okay but were pretty brown with medium surface rust but no pitting.  They 
looked brand new when I got them back (both sets) and the cars ran 
FANTASTIC.

Jeff in NC


>>From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>>Subject: RE: [DML] Cleaning Fuel Injectors
>>Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 10:28:24 -0500
>>
>>Paul,
>>I have cleaned about 100 sets of injectors and about 75% of all injectors
>>I clean and return to the customer are spraying with a good pattern and the
>>holding pressure, opening pressure and drip are in spec. ( $69.95 for the
>>set )
>>I will also add that if you would like for me to clean yours and they don't
>>come out with a good pattern and or the pressure isn't right to open them,
>>then there is no charge for the cleaning towards the purchase of a new set
>>of injectors with new boots. You be the judge.
>>John Hervey
>>www.specialtauto.com
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
>>Of Dave Sontos
>>Sent: Monday, August 01, 2005 3:22 PM
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [DML] Cleaning Fuel Injectors
>>
>>
>>Paul,
>>Here's my two cents on this topic.
>>
>>If those are the original fuel injectors don't bother wasting time or money
>>on cleaning them. I tried cleaning mine first, and they were pretty bad,
>>which did help. I wasn't thrilled still on the performance of the engine 
>>and
>>then replaced mine with new injectors. That made the biggest difference in
>>idle and running.
>>
>>Your fuel hoses are plastic and over twenty years old. You can do the risk
>>assessment. REPLACE THEM.
>>
>>Dave Sontos
>>vin 02573
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
>>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>>Sent: Monday, August 01, 2005 12:56 PM
>>Subject: [DML] Cleaning Fuel Injectors
>>
>>
>
>>> > When I change plugs and wires next month, I would also like to clean
>>> > my fuel injectors, if it's easy to do so.  Are these difficult to
>>> > remove - do I have to watch frozen threads, etc.?  I have an
>>> > ultrasonic cleaner that I can use.  Also, how important is it to
>>> > replace fuels lines?
>>> >
>>> > Thanks,
>>> >
>>> > Paul
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>> > moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>> >
>>> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
>
>>www.dmcnews.com
>
>>> >
>>> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
>
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>>> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>








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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 03:03:44 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Today I took the car to my shop, barely made it; felt like driving 
with an elephant on the car. Symptoms: engine started and idled fine, 
but anything over 2500~3000RPM under load it would misfire and lack 
serious power-like you are towing a boat behind you. I ran a few 
simple tests: Hooked up timing light, made sure it was on 13 degrees. 
I continued to shine the light down on the pulley while pulling on 
the throttle, the timing advanced showing that at least the vacuum 
advance was working normally. Next I disconnected the vacuum line to 
the distributor to check the centrifugal advance. Instead of 
advancing, the timing was slowly retarding depending on the RPMs; 
4000 and it would be down to about 7 degrees. This was the obvious 
problem, so I took out the distributor and opened it up. Found that 
the spring was going to the wrong weight and wasn't even installed on 
the pin on the weight. I installed the spring on the correct pin and 
weight, and made sure it wouldn't fall off. Installed the 
distributor, put the engine all back together and went for a test 
run. The power was back again with no popping and slight backfiring, 
and the idle was smooth. Thanks Jeff for your CO adjusting methods, 
I'm going to fine tune it tomorrow using them. Now all readjusted and 
fixed up, the car made it fine back to my apartment; idle condition 
or power hasn't deteriorated so I'm imagining everything is all fixed 
now. Again, the ultimate test is starting it after a night of 
sitting. What kind of engine damage could result after 3 years 
running it at around 40 degrees with no centrifugal advance? I'd like 
to thank everyone for their help on this issue -----Dani B. #5003



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_m...> 
wrote:

>> Glad I could help.
>> 
>> Next the CO adjustment can be a bit tricky but here's how I was 

taught to do 

>> it a few years ago.  With the car running adjust the CO down till 

the car 

>> almost dies.  If it dies it's okay just turn the screw back up a 

pinch and 

>> restart.  Then slowly move up unitl you hear the Frequncey Valve 

chirp in a 

>> very quick and steady pulse.  Cover the hole and wait a few minutes 

whiloe 

>> the car stabilizes.  Continue to do so and the car's idle will hold 

at the 

>> apropriate range and the car will run very smooth.
>> 
>> I'd go ahead and double check all your vacuum lines just in case.  

I had a 

>> car I worked on where the vacuum lines going into the Vacuum 

Solenoid were 

>> reversed once they were switched it did wonders for the car.
>> 
>> Hope this info continues to help you.
>> 
>> You can safely adjust the CO to a richer mixture but remember if 

the system 

>> is working properly the frequency valve will start to cut out the 

moment you 

>> pass the "sweet spot" go down until it chirps constantly again and 

then just 

>> a hare under that setting the car should run like a dream after 

that.

>> 
>> Jeff in NC
>> 
>> I had backfiring issues when I first got the car running again and 

it was 

>> the CO.  If it's too low it will backfire and appear sluggish.  

This is most 

>> likely your problem.  If you're having trouble with your O2 Sensor 

you can 

>> unplug to "default enrich" your mixture via the Frequency Valve.  

This quick 

>> fix has helped a few cars around here get back on the road.
>> 
>
>>> >From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>>> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>> >Subject: Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor 

positioning)

>>> >Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 01:20:23 -0000
>>> >
>>> >Thank you Jeff Friday. Good thing you told me to check the timing,
>>> >must have been around 40 degrees (!). So I adjust it back to 13, it
>>> >idles smooth, and so far has been starting up quickly (tomorrow
>>> >morning is the ultimate test). Also readjusted CO. But it now back
>>> >fires more anytime you let off the gas (it backfired before but not
>>> >nearly as much), AND I'm lacking serious power- I'd step on the gas
>>> >before and the car would boogie, now it's sluggish. I changed the
>>> >advance diaphram last year so I know that it's good (will double 

check

>>> >tomorrow), vac lines are silicone. Any suggestions? Thanks again!
>>> >-----Dani B. #5003
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Friday" 

<DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_m...>

>>> >wrote:
>>
>>>> > > I had a problem just like this on one of the cars I serviced.  

It

>>> >popped and
>>
>>>> > > ran really rough unless I aligned the distributor all the way 

over

>>> >to one
>>
>>>> > > side of the alignment area.  The distributor was off by one 

tooth

>>> >where it
>>
>>>> > > meets the camshaft.  I pulled the distributor and aligned the 

motor

>>> >by hand
>>
>>>> > > (valve cover on the right side off to check valve movement and 

be

>>> >sure the
>>
>>>> > > motor is on the right stroke) once I reinstalled the 

distributor the

>>>> > > position of the rotor was a bit away from the center and I 

checked the

>>>> > > timing after the car was running.  I had to move the 

distributor a few

>>>> > > millimeters or so over once the car was running but we hit a 

perfect 13

>>>> > > degrees and the car started and ran perfectly from then on out.
>>>> > >
>>>> > > Be sure to use the 13 degree mark and not the 0 on the timing 

plate.

>>> >  You
>>
>>>> > > can pick up a cheap timing light from any autoparts store.  

Also when

>>>> > > aligning the cranksahft pulley be sure your using the mark on 

the

>>> >right of
>>
>>>> > > the pulley not the one to the left of it...that mark is for the
>>
>>> >number 6
>>
>>>> > > cylinder.
>>>> > >
>>>> > > Jeff in NC
>>>> > >
>>>> > > P.S. Also you may have to readjust your CO once the distributor 

is

>>> >aligned
>>
>>>> > > properly.  CO balance is very inportant.  You can smell the 

exhaust

>>> >and tell
>>
>>>> > > right away if it is too rich if it burns your eyes to be near 

it.  Also

>>>> > > gauge the heat with your hand.  I don't personally know your 

mechanical

>>>> > > ability but that's a trick I use.  An easier way to get proper 

CO if

>>> >you
>>
>>>> > > don't have the device to measure it in the exhaust is to listen 

for the

>>>> > > Frequency Valve.  It will cease to make a continuous buzzing 

noise

>>> >if too
>>
>>>> > > rich.  play with the CO screw making 1/8 turns and listen to 

both

>>> >the engine
>>
>>>> > > and the Frequency Valve when you hit the sweet spot it will be 

just

>>> >below
>>
>>>> > > the sound of the valve cutting off as you rotate 

counterclockwise from

>>>> > > richer to lean.  The instant the valve comes on and remains 

constant

>>> >once
>>
>>>> > > the car is warmed off, stop and cover the access hole.  The car 

will

>>> >run
>>
>>>> > > perfectly from that point out.
>>>> > >
>>>> > > Unless you have a problem with the O2 Sensor and in that case
>>
>>> >replace or
>>
>>>> > > unplug.  Unplugging forces the car to a default rich mixture 

and the

>>>> > > Frequency Valve buzzes to life.  We used that solution on a 

couple

>>> >cars here
>>
>>>> > > in NC until they ordered a new O2 Sensor and they ran like a 

dream.

>>>> > >
>>>
>>>>> > > >From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>>>>> > > >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>>>> > > >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>>>> > > >Subject: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor 

positioning)

>>>>> > > >Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:09:40 -0000
>>>>> > > >
>>>>> > > >I'm still battling to get my engine running good, but 

encountered some

>>>>> > > >problems. The distributor is adjusted a little bit counter 

clockwise

>>>> > > >from the center line-the engine starts right up fast, but idle
>>>
>>>>> > > >condition is horrible with "popping" and rough running not to 

mention

>>>>> > > >vibrations. Adjusting the distributor so it is on the 

centerline will

>>>>> > > >give me the same results as described above, just a bit less 

popping.

>>>>> > > >When it is adjusted a slight bit clockwise over the 

centerline, the

>>>>> > > >engine runs so smooth and perfectly! BUT after the engine is 

off for 5

>>>>> > > >minutes it is hard to start, and letting it sit over night it 

won't

>>>>> > > >start at all the next morning. The only way to start it is 

with a

>>>>> > > >great deal of starting spray, or by unbolting the distributor 

and

>>>>> > > >adjusting it CCW. So instead of having a nice running engine, 

I run it

>>>>> > > >CCW to eliminate start-up problems but also have to deal with 

bad rock

>>>>> > > >and roll. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? 

Is

>>>>> > > >there something else I need to replace in order to get it to 

start

>>>>> > > >right up? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. #5003 (almost there)
>>
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 

address:

>>> >moderators_at_dml_d...
>>> >
>>> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 

www.dmcnews.com

>>> >
>>> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>> >Yahoo! Groups Links
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >








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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 03:18:53 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Removing Injector Supports

Hey all,

Just want to share a bit of information about a month or so old.

A guy on another forum posted about a cracked and leaking Fuel Injector 
Support and it was causing a vacuum leak.  It appears that the heat over the 
years may cause these to crack or warp a bit but I'm not 100% on that.  
Might have been from long term overheating but who knows.

The ones on the car I just sold looked pretty rusty but appeared to be okay. 
  Well, I hate rusted parts as I'm all about detail so I decided to take 
them out.

Now, how was I gonna do this?

Well, I decided to grab one with a pair of locking pliers and turn it out.  
Good idea in theory but it sheared the head off and the sleeve was still in 
the head.

Oooops.

I decided to go to Lowes and bought a #5 bolt extractor.  It's a tapered 
drill bit looking thing that is designed to be turned backwards.  You drill 
out the center of a broken off bolt and It grabs it by digging into it and 
you simply turn it out.  (I'm sure you guys probably know that already...but 
hey, just trying to make the story more interesting!)   :) 

I used a large wrench to hold the end that normally goes into a drill and 
all 6 of them turned out like BUTTER!!  I was amazed that they just let go.  
You may need to spray some WD-40 or PB Blaster around the base but I didn't 
have to.

Anyhow, this was something I just thought of.  DMC sells new plated Injector 
Supports for about $6 a piece if I remember correctly.  I'm about to order a 
set while I'm finishing the engine for the new owner before the car gets 
picked up at the end of the month.

I hope this information helps someone.

Jeff in NC






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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 03:44:29 -0000
From: "ocdelorean" <director_at_dml_deloreanmagazine.com>
Subject: California DeLorean Owners-Corona Del Mar Car Show

To California DeLorean Owners,

There will be an auto show in Corona Del Mar on Sunday September 11th from 10am to 
4pm.  The show is located right along beautiful Pacific Coast Highway.  Corona Del Mar is 
located between Newport Beach and Laguna Beach.  From the show, one can take a break
from the event and walk directly down to the beach.  This will be a very nice show with 
beautiful automobiles and a breathtaking environment.  The entrance fee per person is 
$10 and parking is $10.  For those who wish to enter their DeLorean in the show it is $50.

The show parking and general parking are in one lot, so you will still be directly connected 
to the show even though some may not enter their DeLoreans for the main event.  All cars 
will still be seen and the DeLoreans will gather in a section of the lot.  DeLorean owners 
may leave early to drive along Pacific Coast Highway for a scenic tour and conclude with 
dinner.  I hope to see you all there and if you have any questions please let me know.

Here is the link for the Corona Del Mar Car Show
http://www.cdmchamber.com/events/car_show.asp

Sincerely,

Tony Hilger
DeLorean Owners Association
dw magazine director
http://www.deloreanmagazine.com







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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 00:43:33 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Ignition Coils

Paul,
There is a big difference between a potential of 12,000 volts on the stock
coil and 40,000 volts with the MSD coil and the Pertronix coil.
The resistor doesn't have to be changed with either of these but you need to
have the 8 mm wires. Along with the Platinum +4 plugs and you will see a big
difference in the cranking, idling and running.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of sweetp01569
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 6:39 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Ignition Coils


Is there a significant difference with the high performance ignition
coils, versus the stock Bosch coil?  I will be tuning up these parts
in a few weeks.  Unless there is a big difference, I'd prefer stock
coil, as I don't have to change the resistor.

Thanks,

Paul
vin 10944







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 08:36:27 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Castrol GT LMA

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>> Would anyone know of any chain store (Walmart, Partsource, etc)

where they

>> sell the proper Dot 4 fluid Castrol GT LMA for the clutch can be

found? The

>> reason I ask is because I live in Niagara Falls Ontario, and I can't

find

>> any place in Canada that carries it. It would be much simpler to

head over

>> to NY State (about 2 miles away) to pick some up. I figured I could

save a

>> couple of hours of hunting if I knew where to start.
>> 
>> BTW - I know it's available on-line but I was hoping to get some

before the

>> weekend.
>> 
>> - Mike Walsh
>> #17084



Hey Mike, I live in Ontario too and I get it from my local Zellers
store.  I don't know if all their stores carry it, but the one I go to
in Fergus always has lots in stock. If there's a Zellers in your area,
try that first before heading across the border.

Richard Rowe
Vin 5853







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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 11:39:57 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Castrol GT LMA

I found it at Autozone and CAP, but in Massachusetts.  Not sure if 
these stores are available in  Canada.

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>> Would anyone know of any chain store (Walmart, Partsource, etc) 

where they

>> sell the proper Dot 4 fluid Castrol GT LMA for the clutch can be 

found? The

>> reason I ask is because I live in Niagara Falls Ontario, and I can't 

find

>> any place in Canada that carries it. It would be much simpler to 

head over

>> to NY State (about 2 miles away) to pick some up. I figured I could 

save a

>> couple of hours of hunting if I knew where to start.
>> 
>> BTW - I know it's available on-line but I was hoping to get some 

before the

>> weekend.
>> 
>> - Mike Walsh
>> #17084







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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 08:14:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Followup on transmission flange seal fix

 
Nah, the spindle is a 32mm.  --But you can get an impact gun on the nut if you remove the heat shield and muffler (which really isn't tough, anyway).  It's tight, but definately can be done.
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063


ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com> wrote:
Thanks for the insights.

36mm sounds familiar... I'll have to check my toolchest when I get 
home, but that wouldn't by chance be the same size as the spindle nut?

Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> I believe it's 36mm. I got mine at advance auto, both impact and 
>> regular 36mm sockets. Haven't tried to pull the pulley, I needed the 
>> socket to turn the crank, was planning on replacing the seal behind 
>> the pulley but turned out to be something else leaking so I never 

had 

>> to pull the pulley. I'm sure you'll need a puller though. I have yet 
>> to work on an [undamaged] engine where the crank pulley just slides 
>> right off. -----Dani B. #5003



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 16:15:03 -0000
From: "Andrew" <acey_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Re: YEESSSSSSSSSS!!!!!

( Moderator note:  Go to www.dmcnews.com and click on search. In the google search option for www.dmcnews type newbie files and there will be a ton of previous posts pertaining to being new to DeLoreans. ) 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainless_dreams" <fwise3_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> My parents and I just went over to see a delorean (owned by a close
>> friend of mine) and they struck a deal, so I will be living the dream
>> in late October!!! It's VIN # SCEDT26TXDD016569 and her body and
>> interior are in EXCELLENT shape. She's a manual with black interior.
>> Hopfully all she needs are brakes, a fuel pump kit, and door struts,
>> but it has been sitting for a bit less than a year so it will probably
>> be needing something else, but even so I think it is a great deal at
>> $14,000! I have read the Newbie Files several times, but does anyone
>> have any advice on what to do when I get it? Thank you!
>> 
>> Freddie Wise
>> 
>> p.s. YES, I DO know what I have gotten myself into  ;) 


Where are the "newbie files" at?  (I just joined the group today) 
I've always wanted a Delorean and would like to know what I'd be
getting myself into should I buy one.  Thanks in advance!







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