Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2779
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:4 Aug 2005 15:51:55 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Backwards temp gauge
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

2. New(ish) DeLorean Owner, North of the Border - Hello!
From: "mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net" <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>

3. Re: Re: Castrol GT LMA
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>

4. Re: Is my radio dead?
From: doki_pen <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Is my radio dead?
From: "mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net" <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>

6. YORK?
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. More on tire pressure
From: "Steve Auyer" <n2tkx_at_dml_arrl.net>

8. PIT Tech Session - * Rob Grady * Attending - Need Parts ?
From: Daniel Plakosh <dplakosh2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Door Lights
From: "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Weird idle when I first start the car.
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

11. What motor oil to use.
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

12. Connecticut owners...LOOK...2 D's spotted in one day!
From: Joshieloo_at_dml_aol.com

13. Cold Start System
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

14. Re: Is my radio dead?
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. O Rings
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

16. I smell gas!
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: More on tire pressure
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: I smell gas!
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

19. Re: Door Lights
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

20. Re: What motor oil to use.
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Re: I smell gas!
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

22. Re: Weird idle when I first start the car.
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

23. Re: What motor oil to use.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

24. Re: Door Lights
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

25. Re: Door Lights
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 11:42:20 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Backwards temp gauge

Hah! You guys rock. It's back where it belongs and working perfectly now.

Thank you!

-Ryan

On 8/2/05, Dave Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net> wrote:

>> Turn the ignition key on and with a small piece of fine wire, thread the
>> wire through the trip counter reset hole by the speedometer and gently give
>> the needle a push to the left. It should jump back to its original position.
>> 
>> Dave Sontos
>> vin 02573
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
>> To: <DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>; <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 12:10 AM
>> Subject: [DML] Backwards temp gauge
>> 
>> 
>
>>> > I was working on my horn tonight, screwed up in testing and blew the
>>> > fuse to the horn. When it happened, the needle on my temp gauge
>>> > flipped around. I replaced the fuse and reminded myself to be more
>>> > careful, but now the temp gauge needle is backwards - pointing toward
>>> > the speedometer. If I turn the ignition on, it moves like it should,
>>> > but points down and to the right.
>>> >
>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>






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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 16:38:11 -0400
From: "mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net" <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>
Subject: New(ish) DeLorean Owner, North of the Border - Hello!

Hello everyone...

My name is Ed, and I've been lurking 'round the list for many months 
now, thought I'd finally chime in.  I purchased my 1982 D (11594) last 
November from a nice guy in Michigan, and brought it back to enjoy a new 
life of fine driving here in Toronto, Canada.  I've long yearned for a 
DeLorean, and it's great to finally have one.  I've owned many different 
cars in the past, from Audis, to Maseratis, to Porsches, but the DMC-12 
is one I've been most happy to add to "the stable".  Sure, it's not a 
particularly fast car, and sure, it gets a lot of attention (good and 
bad), but basically... I just like the car.  I like it's styling, it's 
ride, the stainless.... but I'm sure I don't have to defend my purchase 
here...!

The car was in pretty good shape when I bought it, but it did need some 
work to make it "perfect" (to me, at least).  This list, its archives 
and its members are all a wealth of knowledge and I appreciate the help 
and advice I've received from many of you I've contacted privately.  I 
have had nothing but good experiences from the parts suppliers like 
DMCH, PJ Grady and Special-T, as well as list members who have sold me 
parts and offered sage advice.

I just finished up refreshing the front-end: bushings, control arms, 
ball joints, tie rod ends, steering mounts, and the steering column 
bushing (I NEVER want to do THAT again!)...  Anyway, the car now drives 
great, is tight & stable, and needs nothing mechanically and will likely 
see its way down to Josh in Ohio in the future for a fascia re-paint & 
re-align (doesn't line up nice and flush to the fender panel).  I do 
have a few concerns and questions that I hope can be answered in the 
mean-time:

1.  How does one remove the vertical panel at the back of the parcel 
shelf?  I would like to install 6" speakers back there (in the panel, 
facing forward), but was wondering how to remove it and if there is any 
room/depth for speakers?  I'd probably be buying a new panel and cutting 
that, to leave my original in tact if I want to revert to stock later.  
I really don't want to mess with removing the stock rear speakers, not 
to mention I can't find 4x10's I like.  I could always stick some 6x9's 
in a box, but there's already so little space back there, and I'd like 
to keep it all looking clean.

2. How "grippy" should the brakes be, specifically the rears?  I 
installed new rear calipers (purchased from eBay) -- along with new 
rotors, pads, pins, reservoir/fluid, master cylinder & front calipers 
from DMCH & PJG -- but I seem to be only braking mostly with my fronts.  
I should be able to lock up the wheels in hard braking, right?  In fact, 
with the car on jackstands, the rear brakes barely hold the rotors from 
spinning under even mild acceleration in 1st gear.  I'm thinking I have 
bad calipers, and will put the old ones back to verify this, since I 
recall far better braking before I swapped all the stuff.  (Pedal fells 
good, system is bled properlly.)  I also just wanted to know what 
everyone thought about the stock brake system.  Seems a little weak in 
my opinion.  Anybody upgrade the calipers & if so, what have you used?  
Vented rotors up front?

3. If there are any other Toronto & surrounding area listers out there, 
I'd like to know if you can recommend any mechanics or garages.  My 
Porsche mechanics who did my front-end work are OK, but they took a LONG 
time due to unfamiliarity with the car (I loaned them the manuals, which 
helped).  Most basic items I can do myself but for the "tough-stuff" 
it'd be nice to have a knowledgeable wrench in there.

Lastly, if anyone is in the Toronto area, please feel free to look me 
up; I'm in the registry -- any are welcome to drop in & I can offer 
fantastic coffee, refreshing beer, or a driveway & tools to do some 
basic work & talk shop...

Thanks in advance...
- ed

1982  DMC-12 (11594)
1986.5  928S
1990  CoupeQuattro 20V




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 17:20:04 -0400
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Castrol GT LMA



>> Hey Mike, I live in Ontario too and I get it from my local Zellers
>> store.  I don't know if all their stores carry it, but the one I go to
>> in Fergus always has lots in stock. If there's a Zellers in your area,
>> try that first before heading across the border.
>>
>> Richard Rowe
>> Vin 5853


Thanks Richard. I went to the local Zellers and found they had a shelf full!
I did check Canadian Tire, Parts Source (Canada), a couple of small parts
places and some local garages before I posted  I never thought of Zellers -
a discount store up in Canada a little like K-Mart.

As of Sunday night I have officially put on more miles since last spring
than the previous owner had put on since Feb of 83 when he bought it! Still
hard to get used to people hanging out of their windows with camera phones -
uh-oh, did I just start a new thread?

Mike Walsh
#17084





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 14:23:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: doki_pen <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Is my radio dead?

It's hard to say, What I would do is check that
voltage is getting to the radio.  This would require
taking the radio out and using a voltmeter on the
wires that go in to the radio.

With the ignition key on, and the radio pulled out of
the dash double check one more time that the radio
doesn't turn on.  Try wiggling the wires on the
connector.  If the radio still does not come on then
check to see if you've got voltage between the ground
wire and the constant +12, and switched +12.  If the
voltage looks good then I think it would be safe to
say something is wrong with your radio.

If you're missing voltage on one of these leads, let
us know and we can cross that bridge when we get
there.

Guys, any other input?

Jon

--- conundrum1984 <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:


>> Yesterday I just got the tags for my DeLorean.  I
>> drove it to work then 
>> home.  On my way home I had the original Craig
>> Stereo on.  I turned it 
>> off just to listen to the car go up the road.  When
>> I turned the stereo 
>> back on, it stayed on for a few seconds, then shut
>> off as if I turned 
>> it off.  I was thinking, "maybe a fuse blew." 
>> Today, I checked all of 
>> the fuses in the fuse box and the two inline fuses
>> behind the stereo.  
>> All were ok.  Is my radio dead?
>> 
>> Thomas
>> VIN:2953
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating
>> team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
>> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 






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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 17:43:07 -0400
From: "mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net" <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>
Subject: Re: Is my radio dead?

My radio did a similar thing: worked fine for weeks, and then suddenly 
did not, despite the fuses being OK.  I checked the constant +12V lead 
at the radio and got no voltage.  In my car, this lead is a solid brown 
wire that connects directly to the Battery + terminal.  I found that the 
wire had severed from its connector at the battery +12V terminal.  I 
crimped on a new ring-shaped connector, re-attached it to the battery 
+12V terminal and all was well.  I have since upgraded the stock radio, 
and still use this as the constant +12V line, now with an in-line fuse 
installed to protect it.

- ed
1982  DMC-12 (11594)


doki_pen wrote:
...


>>If the radio still does not come on then
>>check to see if you've got voltage between the ground
>>wire and the constant +12, and switched +12.
>>
>>  
>>

...


>>Guys, any other input?
>>
>>Jon
>>
>>--- conundrum1984 <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>  
>>
>
>>>>Yesterday I just got the tags for my DeLorean.  I
>>>>drove it to work then 
>>>>home.  On my way home I had the original Craig
>>>>Stereo on.  I turned it 
>>>>off just to listen to the car go up the road.  When
>>>>I turned the stereo 
>>>>back on, it stayed on for a few seconds, then shut
>>>>off as if I turned 
>>>>it off.  I was thinking, "maybe a fuse blew." 
>>>>Today, I checked all of 
>>>>the fuses in the fuse box and the two inline fuses
>>>>behind the stereo.  
>>>>All were ok.  Is my radio dead?
>>>>
>>>>Thomas
>>>>VIN:2953
>>>>
>>>>    
>>>>






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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 17:12:49 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: YORK?

Who on this list lives in or near York PA?
Anyone want to make a few bucks?
I gotta fly into Baltimore BWI in the morning and get a ride over to York.
If anyone wants to make a few bucks and have lunch the infamous Videobob
and give pick me up from BWI at 11:30AM and drive me to York PA
let me know......
- VB






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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 18:21:59 -0400
From: "Steve Auyer" <n2tkx_at_dml_arrl.net>
Subject: More on tire pressure

I remember the discussion on tire pressure of several weeks ago, so let me add my two cents worth based upon a recent 
experience.

I recently replaced the tires on my car with Michelin Pilots: P195/60R14 in the front and P235/60R15 in the rear. Both 
of these tires are rated for a maximum pressure of 44 PSI.

While the Michelins were better than the  cruddy replacements that were on the car when I bought it, I noticed that the 
ride was still pretty stiff, there was a lot of road noise, and whenever the tires hit any kind of bump on the road 
there was an audible "thump."

Well, I finally thought to check the pressure in the tires and found that both the front and rear tires had been 
inflated to 40 PSI by the shop instead of the 23 PSI called for in front and 30 PSI in the rear. I deflated both the 
front and rear to about 4 PSI over the pressures that DMC had called for.

Wow! What a difference, less road noise and much better handling - a much more comfortable ride.

Steve
Vin 3319 






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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 15:44:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel Plakosh <dplakosh2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: PIT Tech Session - * Rob Grady * Attending - Need Parts ?

All,
 
This is note to let everyone know that Rob Grady will be attending the Pittsburgh Tech on Saturday August 6, 2005. If you are attending and need any Delorean parts this is an excellent opportunity  to save on shipping. So, if you would like Rob to bring any particular D parts for you  please contact him ASAP at 800-350-7429 or 631-589-6224. http://www.pjgrady.com/ 
 
Hope to see you there!
 
Best regards,
Dan and Judy
(Vin 3872) 





		
---------------------------------
 Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 06:37:27 -0000
From: "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Door Lights

So I was examing earlier today as to why the 3 door lights on my DMC 
dont turn on when I open the door thinking that it was just a simple 
matter that they after all were the 25 year old original bulbs and 
all 6 of them between the 2 doors simply burnt out. removing the 
colored bracket and than pulling out the bulb I was not quite 
stumped. the bulbs looked brand new and definitly didnt have the 
look of a burnt out bulb. So as you can see im a little stumped.

Ive noticed quite a few DeLoreans dont have working door lights in 
photos of where the doors are up which leads me to believe that 
perhaps this is a common problem, and maybe there is a common fix or 
way to explain this. or maybe a fuse isnt in the right place. 

Thanks DML, id appreciate any resonses on how to deal with this 
issue before I order my LED bulbs for the doors.

~Josh Tidwell
04463

(PS: if anyone whos worked with the angle drive on the DMC could 
leave their email id like to talk to them and ask a few questions on 
its removal procedure for replacment. much obliged)








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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 12:05:04 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Weird idle when I first start the car.

I am not bothered my this too much, but when I first start my car (at 
anytime during the day and temperature, the idle goes up and down, 
cycling every two seconds or so.  The RPM needle fluctuates between 
900 and 950.  After about a minute the engine smooths out at 950 and 
no more up and down.  This only occurs starting the car from cold.

Any ideas what might cause this?

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944






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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 12:07:57 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: What motor oil to use.

I know this has probably been answered many times, and with many 
different answers.  I want to change to oil this weekend and am 
curious to the weight of oil I should use.  I live in MA, where summer 
temps right now are 80-90 deg., but will drive the car into the fall, 
where temps will range between 35 and 50 deg.  I drive the car a 
couple of times a week to work (64 miles round trip).  What weight is 
recommended for this condition.  Should I just follow the manual?

Thanks,

Paul
VIN 10944







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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 08:56:15 EDT
From: Joshieloo_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Connecticut owners...LOOK...2 D's spotted in one day!

On Wednesday, a friend of mine spotted a DeLorean (VIN 2839) around 1 PM  
parked in Shelton, CT. I searched the VIN on the chronology and saw it is  listed 
as being in East Haven, CT. I asked him to leave a note with my contact  
information on the windshield.
 
Later that afternoon, around 6 PM, I decided to take a quick drive.  Waiting 
at a traffic light, I saw the rear of a DeLorean parked at the  Mobil station 
at the intersection of RT. 59 and Fairfield Woods Rd in Fairfield,  CT. I 
pulled in and went to check it out. The VIN is 15970 and isn't listed in  the 
chronology. The license plate is personalized with a BTTF reference. I spoke  with 
the clerk and gave him my contact information to pass to the owner.
 
If either owner of VIN 2839 or VIN 15970 follow this list and would like to  
get together with a few other owners in the area, please contact me off the 
DML.  It would be great to know of more local area owners to talk with, help out 
and  get the cars together for an afternoon. Of course, any other CT owner is 
welcome  to contact me for the same.
 
Thanks,
 
Joshua Schwartz
Trumbull, CT
001292
020098
 
_joshieloo_at_dml_aol.com_ (mailto:joshieloo_at_dml_aol.com) 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 08:40:46 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Cold Start System

List:

In my attempt to figure out my occasional odd starting problem, I think I may have found something and would like your opinion.  I think my problem has been lying in the fact that my cold start valve never actually fires.  I have verified that the valve itself is operational by replacing it's power source with that of the CPR, and gas squirts just fine.  So you are probably thinking that my thermal time switch is bad, I ruled that out by verifying that there is continuity between the two terminals on the TTS when there should be.  I even bypassed the TTS altogether and manually grounded the cold start valve and still nothing.  Then I put the voltage meter on the cold start valve connector and found that there were only 9-10 volts while cranking.  Is this enough juice to fire the cold start valve?  I figured it would need a full 12, so this lead me to think that maybe my starter solenoid is failing and not giving enough voltage to the cold start valve.  Do you think my conclusion is correct?  However, it would seem odd that my starter solenoid would be failing yet the starter motor itself would function just fine, but I guess it's possible.  Also, I have taken off all of the solenoid wire connections and cleaned them thoroughly and the battery is new with a full charge.  Kevin, you mentioned a while back that you had the same issue, you may want to check the voltage to the cold start valve too.

Also, thanks to John Hervey for spending the time on the phone yesterday about this problem.

Thanks,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 13:31:47 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Is my radio dead?

Thank you everyone for help with my radio.  I'm going to the Pittsburg 
Tech Session this Saturday.  A few extra set of eyes and hands always 
help.  I plan on have my car checked for anything that may need work.  
I will check the radio then.

Thomas
VIN:2953








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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 13:12:07 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: O Rings

I plan to change plugs, wires, rotor, cap, vacuum hoses, along with 
the two small coolant hoses behind the waterpump in a few weeks.  I 
have the intake manifold O-rings/gaskets.  Are there other O-rings or 
gaskets to be replaced when I do this job?  Also, do I use anything as 
a sealant on the O-rings, or just a finger wipe with oil?

Thanks,

Paul








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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 13:35:20 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: I smell gas!

Yesterday driving my DeLorean with A/C on I noticed the smell of gas 
coming through the vents once in a while.  Then I had the car parked 
parallel along a street facing downhil.  And looking under the front of 
it on the passenger side, I saw something dripping onto the street.  
Put my hand in it and smelt my hand, yep, that's gas!  It only does it 
on a hill not on level.  Where could it be leaking from?

Thomas
VIN: 2953







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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 13:37:23 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: More on tire pressure

You might want to go right down to 23 and 30. I know of no good reason
to overinflate the tires unless you are going 100 mph for extended
periods. Use an accurate tire gauge and check the tires in the morning
BEFORE driving the car. Don't forget the spare, check it at least once
a month. You are correct, the tire pressure has a HUGE effect on the
driving and handling qualities, not to mention safety and tire life. I
never trust tire shops, they will overinflate the tires to seat them
on the rims but rarely adjust the tire prressures properly afterward.
Tire shops also will put the lug nuts on so tight you won't be able to
loosen them unless you have an impact wrench. Try taking the lugnuts
off in the dark, in the rain, with the lug wrench that comes with the
car! After you get home from the tire shop you should remove the
tires, wash the protective coating off, and reinstall with a torque
wrench. Wait at least 3 hours or even better, the next morning, check
the pressures. Check the tire pressures at least once a month and
before any long drive.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve Auyer" <n2tkx_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>> I remember the discussion on tire pressure of several weeks ago, so

let me add my two cents worth based upon a recent 

>> experience.
>> 
>> I recently replaced the tires on my car with Michelin Pilots:

P195/60R14 in the front and P235/60R15 in the rear. Both 

>> of these tires are rated for a maximum pressure of 44 PSI.
>> 
>> While the Michelins were better than the  cruddy replacements that

were on the car when I bought it, I noticed that the 

>> ride was still pretty stiff, there was a lot of road noise, and 








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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 10:08:04 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: I smell gas!

The fuel pump boot is probably not secured to the tank lip.  Go to the 
tank thru the access panel in the spare tire well.  Re-secure the boot 
and pump to the tank with the big hose clamp.
Warren at DMC


conundrum1984 wrote:

>> Yesterday driving my DeLorean with A/C on I noticed the smell of gas 
>> coming through the vents once in a while.  Then I had the car parked 
>> parallel along a street facing downhil.  And looking under the front of 
>> it on the passenger side, I saw something dripping onto the street.  
>> Put my hand in it and smelt my hand, yep, that's gas!  It only does it 
>> on a hill not on level.  Where could it be leaking from?
>> 
>> Thomas
>> VIN: 2953
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 





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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 08:12:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Door Lights

Are the three lights on the same side?  If so check the door switch for operation (even if it IS plugged in).  I have my switches hooked up now after doing the LED conversion.  I have noticed sometimes the LED won't come on or are weak.  This I believe is due to the contacts in the switch no meeting well enough.  I plan on visiting this soon.  Toying with the door switch usually gets the contacts lined up for now.
 
Regarding the pictures of no lights showing... I think many people just disconnect the door switch  to head off any issues of the lights staying on even with the door shut (battery drain issue).  I believe the little rubber pieces on the door switch are supposed to help make sure the switch is open when the door is closed.
 
Overall, I'm really happy with the LED conversion for the door.  I also got the LED for the festoon bulb based on the info in the tech section of DML, but the bulb does not fit... it is too long... will revisit this later.
 
Regards,
Wayne / VIN#2447
www.AA9DY.com

dmcjosh85 <dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
So I was examing earlier today as to why the 3 door lights on my DMC 
dont turn on when I open the door thinking that it was just a simple 
matter that they after all were the 25 year old original bulbs and 
all 6 of them between the 2 doors simply burnt out. removing the 
colored bracket and than pulling out the bulb I was not quite 
stumped. the bulbs looked brand new and definitly didnt have the 
look of a burnt out bulb. So as you can see im a little stumped.

Ive noticed quite a few DeLoreans dont have working door lights in 
photos of where the doors are up which leads me to believe that 
perhaps this is a common problem, and maybe there is a common fix or 
way to explain this. or maybe a fuse isnt in the right place. 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 15:13:20 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: What motor oil to use.

Paul,
Everyone has told me to use 20W-30.  So that's what I put in.  Been 
working good so far.

Thomas
VIN:2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:

>> I know this has probably been answered many times, and with many 
>> different answers.  I want to change to oil this weekend and am 
>> curious to the weight of oil I should use.  I live in MA, where 

summer 

>> temps right now are 80-90 deg., but will drive the car into the fall, 
>> where temps will range between 35 and 50 deg.  I drive the car a 
>> couple of times a week to work (64 miles round trip).  What weight is 
>> recommended for this condition.  Should I just follow the manual?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul
>> VIN 10944









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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 15:15:28 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: I smell gas!

After I first got my car in April, I would get a gas leak on the 
ground in front as I filled up the car.  It turned out to be the clamp 
around the rubber boot the fuel pump sits in.  When I filled the tank, 
gas would fill up around the fuel pump, the leak put over the tank and 
onto the ground, past my 23 year old dried-up upper boot seal.  I 
tightened the clamp on the lower boot to stop the leak, and replaced 
the upper seal.  No more leaks since.

Perhaps your tank is full, and when on an incline, gas is spilling 
from the fuel pump boot area.  Just a thought.

Good Luck,

Paul
Vin 10944

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>> Yesterday driving my DeLorean with A/C on I noticed the smell of gas 
>> coming through the vents once in a while.  Then I had the car parked 
>> parallel along a street facing downhil.  And looking under the front 

of 

>> it on the passenger side, I saw something dripping onto the street.  
>> Put my hand in it and smelt my hand, yep, that's gas!  It only does 

it 

>> on a hill not on level.  Where could it be leaking from?
>> 
>> Thomas
>> VIN: 2953







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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 17:19:16 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Weird idle when I first start the car.

Well, the only strange thing here is, that the idle should be at 775rpm when
warm.
The cycling is more or less normal. The reason ? Oh well, we're hopefully
not starting this discussion again. You'll find hundreds of postings in the
archive concerning this issue.

Elvis



>> 
>> I am not bothered my this too much, but when I first start my car (at 
>> anytime during the day and temperature, the idle goes up and down, 
>> cycling every two seconds or so.  The RPM needle fluctuates between 
>> 900 and 950.  After about a minute the engine smooths out at 950 and 
>> no more up and down.  This only occurs starting the car from cold.
>> 
>> Any ideas what might cause this?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul
>> Vin 10944
>> 
>> 


-- 5 GB Mailbox, 50 FreeSMS http://www.gmx.net/de/go/promail +++ GMX - die erste Adresse für Mail, Message, More +++ ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 23 Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 15:21:18 -0000 From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com> Subject: Re: What motor oil to use. Manual states 20W50 for hot weather. This sounds "heavy" but is not unusual for Euro engines of that era. I've started using 15W50 Mobil 1 (after doing a teardown on a 150K-mile BMW engine that had always run Mobil 1 I was sold). Oil is like a religious argument - you'll get a ton of opinions on this one, and unless you drive it 100K miles and then tear it down, you'll never figure out who's right. I know many folks running 10W30 without issue. In any case I'm convinced that full synthtetic is well worth the money. Dave Swingle --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:

>> I know this has probably been answered many times, and with many 
>> different answers.  I want to change to oil this weekend and am 
>> curious to the weight of oil I should use.  I live in MA, where 

summer 

>> temps right now are 80-90 deg., but will drive the car into the fall, 
>> where temps will range between 35 and 50 deg.  I drive the car a 
>> couple of times a week to work (64 miles round trip).  What weight is 
>> recommended for this condition.  Should I just follow the manual?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul
>> VIN 10944







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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 15:22:53 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Door Lights

My passenger door lights were out when I bought my car.  Turns out 
that the connectors behind the door light switch pin, were simply 
dirty.  I cleaned the connections and the lights worked fine.  You 
may want to check this before changing bulbs.

As far as Deloreans having bulbs out in photos, I think when cars 
are shown, or when doing work for extended periods with the doors 
open, the lights are arranged to be off with a wiring/switch 
arrangement (that can be bought at Special-T Auto I believe) to save 
drain on the battery.  During cruise nights, I'll simply unplug the 
connectors behind the door light pin switch to deactivate the lights

Paul
Vin 10944

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> So I was examing earlier today as to why the 3 door lights on my 

DMC 

>> dont turn on when I open the door thinking that it was just a 

simple 

>> matter that they after all were the 25 year old original bulbs and 
>> all 6 of them between the 2 doors simply burnt out. removing the 
>> colored bracket and than pulling out the bulb I was not quite 
>> stumped. the bulbs looked brand new and definitly didnt have the 
>> look of a burnt out bulb. So as you can see im a little stumped.
>> 
>> Ive noticed quite a few DeLoreans dont have working door lights in 
>> photos of where the doors are up which leads me to believe that 
>> perhaps this is a common problem, and maybe there is a common fix 

or 

>> way to explain this. or maybe a fuse isnt in the right place. 
>> 
>> Thanks DML, id appreciate any resonses on how to deal with this 
>> issue before I order my LED bulbs for the doors.
>> 
>> ~Josh Tidwell
>> 04463
>> 
>> (PS: if anyone whos worked with the angle drive on the DMC could 
>> leave their email id like to talk to them and ask a few questions 

on 

>> its removal procedure for replacment. much obliged)








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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 15:27:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door Lights

Check the wires going to the door switches. It is very common for them
to be pulled off so you can leave the doors open without draining the
battery like at a car show or cruise night. If the wires are connected
you will need a meter to troubleshoot the door circuit. Start with the
fuse.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> So I was examing earlier today as to why the 3 door lights on my DMC 
>> dont turn on when I open the door thinking that it was just a simple 
>> matter that they after all were the 25 year old original bulbs and 
>> all 6 of them between the 2 doors simply burnt out. removing the 
>> colored bracket and than pulling out the bulb I was not quite 
>> stumped. the bulbs looked brand new and definitly didnt have the 
>> look of a burnt out bulb. So as you can see im a little stumped.
>> 
>> Ive noticed quite a few DeLoreans dont have working door lights in 
>>







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