Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2780
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:4 Aug 2005 21:58:22 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Cold Start System
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: I smell gas!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Cold Start System
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

4. Re: What motor oil to use.
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

5. Re: I smell gas!
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

6. RE: Re: What motor oil to use.
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. RE: O Rings
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Door Lights
From: Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

9. Slow starting
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. RE: Re: What motor oil to use.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. RE: Cold Start System
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. RE: Weird idle when I first start the car.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. Re: Weird idle when I first start the car.
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

14. RE: Slow starting
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

15. Re: Castrol GT LMA
From: "JSJB100" <jsjb100_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Slow starting
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

17. Re: What motor oil to use.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

18. RE: Re: What motor oil to use.
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

19. Re: Re: What motor oil to use.
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

20. NC Gathering
From: Randy Harriman <randyharriman01_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 15:34:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cold Start System

The cold start valve gets power from a terminal on the starter
solenoid during cranking. It is possible there is a bad connection
inside the solenoid for that terminal. The starter would still run
fine but you won't get full voltage to the cold start valve. Put the
meter on the terminal for the cold start valve on the starter solenoid
and crank the motor. If you do not get full voltage (as compared to
the terminal going to the starter motor from the solenoid) you need to
replace the solenoid. You also need to check the gound connection for
the cold start valve. It is possible that is not connected/dirty and
with full voltage the valve still can't work. You have to check BOTH
sides of a circuit.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_r...> wrote:

>> List:
>> 
>> In my attempt to figure out my occasional odd starting problem, I

think I may have found something and would like your opinion.  I think
my problem has been lying in the fact that my cold start valve never
actually fires.  I have verified that the valve itself is operational
by replacing it's power source with that of the CPR, and gas squirts
just fine.  So you are probably thinking that my thermal time switch
is bad, I ruled that out by verifying that there is continuity between 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 15:38:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: I smell gas!

Empty the trunk and remove the access panels to the gas tank and
filler. The problem should be obvious once you can see it. Chances are
you will need new boots for the fuel pump. In the meantime don't fill
the tank more than 1/2 way.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>> Yesterday driving my DeLorean with A/C on I noticed the smell of gas 
>> coming through the vents once in a while.  Then I had the car parked 
>> parallel along a street facing downhil.  And looking under the front of 
>> it on the passenger side, I saw something dripping onto the street.  
>> Put my hand in it and smelt my hand, yep, that's gas!  It only does it 
>> on a hill not on level.  Where could it be leaking from?
>> 
>> Thomas
>> VIN: 2953








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 17:36:20 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Cold Start System


Todd,

when you're cranking the starter sucks so much current from the 
battery that the voltage goes down. Reason is the internal resistance 
of the battery and of the connections. I'm not going into details - just 
let me say - 9...10V are ok.

There is a relay that bridges one of the two resistors while cranking.
Does it work ? It's the one close the resistor at the fire wall.

Elvis





>> 
>> List:
>> 
>> In my attempt to figure out my occasional odd starting problem, I think I
>> may have found something and would like your opinion.  I think my problem
>> has been lying in the fact that my cold start valve never actually fires. 

I

>> have verified that the valve itself is operational by replacing it's power
>> source with that of the CPR, and gas squirts just fine.  So you are
>> probably thinking that my thermal time switch is bad, I ruled that out by
>> verifying that there is continuity between the two terminals on the TTS

when there

>> should be.  I even bypassed the TTS altogether and manually grounded the
>> cold start valve and still nothing.  Then I put the voltage meter on the
>> cold start valve connector and found that there were only 9-10 volts while
>> cranking.  Is this enough juice to fire the cold start valve?  I figured

it

>> would need a full 12, so this lead me to think that maybe my starter

solenoid

>> is failing and not giving enough voltage to the cold start valve.  Do you
>> think my conclusion is correct?  However, it would seem odd that my

starter

>> solenoid would be failing yet the starter motor itself would function just
>> fine, but I guess it's possible.  Also, I have taken off all of the
>> solenoid wire connections and cleaned them thoroughly and the battery is

new with

>> a full charge.  Kevin, you mentioned a while back that you had the same
>> issue, you may want to check the voltage to the cold start valve too.
>> 
>> Also, thanks to John Hervey for spending the time on the phone yesterday
>> about this problem.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Todd Nelson
>> 1561, Vermont
>>


-- 5 GB Mailbox, 50 FreeSMS http://www.gmx.net/de/go/promail +++ GMX - die erste Adresse für Mail, Message, More +++ ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 15:56:46 -0000 From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com> Subject: Re: What motor oil to use. Dave, you're the second to say use the 15W50 Mobile-1. I think I will go with that. Thanks, Paul --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> Manual states 20W50 for hot weather. This sounds "heavy" but is 

not 

>> unusual for Euro engines of that era. I've started using 15W50 

Mobil 1 

>> (after doing a teardown on a 150K-mile BMW engine that had always 

run 

>> Mobil 1 I was sold). Oil is like a religious argument - you'll get 

a 

>> ton of opinions on this one, and unless you drive it 100K miles 

and 

>> then tear it down, you'll never figure out who's right. 
>> 
>> I know many folks running 10W30 without issue. In any case I'm 
>> convinced that full synthtetic is well worth the money. 
>> 
>> Dave Swingle
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 

wrote:

>>> > I know this has probably been answered many times, and with many 
>>> > different answers.  I want to change to oil this weekend and am 
>>> > curious to the weight of oil I should use.  I live in MA, where 
>
>> summer 
>
>>> > temps right now are 80-90 deg., but will drive the car into the 

fall, 

>>> > where temps will range between 35 and 50 deg.  I drive the car a 
>>> > couple of times a week to work (64 miles round trip).  What 

weight is 

>>> > recommended for this condition.  Should I just follow the manual?
>>> > 
>>> > Thanks,
>>> > 
>>> > Paul
>>> > VIN 10944







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 15:59:01 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: I smell gas!

It's also worth mentioning that it's good DMC practice to stop 
filling the tank at the first click of the pump. Trying to top-off 
the tank all the way up the filler hose is just asking for trouble. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:

>> Empty the trunk and remove the access panels to the gas tank and
>> filler. The problem should be obvious once you can see it. Chances 

are

>> you will need new boots for the fuel pump. In the meantime don't 

fill

>> the tank more than 1/2 way.
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> 

wrote:

>>> > Yesterday driving my DeLorean with A/C on I noticed the smell of 

gas 

>>> > coming through the vents once in a while.  








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 11:29:55 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: What motor oil to use.

I "second" Dave's choice of Mobil1 15W-50. Actually, if you look at the 
detailed specs for that oil and other "competing" oils, you 'll see little 
difference in the "pour points" of the synthetic 15W-50 and most 
conventional 10W-30 and even 5W-30 oils. What does that mean? It means don't 
be too scared to use Mobil 1 15W-50 oil even in moderately low temps. Mobil1 
15W-50 also excels at high temps. (As do some other oils, especially 
synthetics.)

The SAE viscosity ratings of oils are AT BEST an extremely rough guide to 
the "flowability" of oils at various temps.

My son has been using Mobil 1 15W-50 in his car and we recently had his 
motor on a stand with the valve covers and oil pan off. The parts we could 
inspect were absolutely immaculate.

I am also convinced that synthetic oil is the way to go.

-Joe Kuchan


>>Manual states 20W50 for hot weather. This sounds "heavy" but is not
>>unusual for Euro engines of that era. I've started using 15W50 Mobil 1
>>(after doing a teardown on a 150K-mile BMW engine that had always run
>>Mobil 1 I was sold). Oil is like a religious argument - you'll get a
>>ton of opinions on this one, and unless you drive it 100K miles and
>>then tear it down, you'll never figure out who's right.
>>
>>I know many folks running 10W30 without issue. In any case I'm
>>convinced that full synthtetic is well worth the money.







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 11:32:54 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: O Rings

The traditional treatment for o-rings is silicone grease but use a wipe of 
motor oil on the intake o-rings because they are upstream from your lambda 
probe.

-Joe Kuchan


>>From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] O Rings
>>Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 13:12:07 -0000
>>
>>I plan to change plugs, wires, rotor, cap, vacuum hoses, along with
>>the two small coolant hoses behind the waterpump in a few weeks.  I
>>have the intake manifold O-rings/gaskets.  Are there other O-rings or
>>gaskets to be replaced when I do this job?  Also, do I use anything as
>>a sealant on the O-rings, or just a finger wipe with oil?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Paul







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 12:36:30 -0400
From: Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Door Lights

I've had my door light l.e.d. replacements for over a year now and I 
love 'em. (Picked them up at DCS Pigeon Forge from Delorean Motor 
Center.)
It continues to baffle me why anyone would disconnect safety lights on 
our lovable (but sometimes hazardous!) gullwing doors -PARTICULARLY at 
a cruise night!
I highly recommend replacing your door bulbs with the l.e.d.s.  Your 
battery will be fine  *and* you'll reduce the risk of head trauma, 
chipped teeth, etc.
Just a thought.  After all, those lights are there for a reason. . .
Oliver Holler
#10694


Subject: Re: Door Lights
On Aug 4, 2005, at 11:51 AM> wrote:
 > It is very common for them
to be pulled off so you can leave the doors open without draining the
battery like at a car show or cruise night.>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 16:44:32 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Slow starting

Better then no starting...I just did the CO adjustment and the car 
idles and runs great. It will start right up unless it sits over 
night. When I try to start it, it WILL start, but I have to crank it 
for about 15 seconds while the motor is trying to slowly turn over.
It 
doesn't just crank, you can hear the engine burning the fuel and 
trying to start, but it just takes a bit for it to finally run, as if 
it was either starved or has too much fuel. Any Ideas? Thanks again
to 
everyone who helped me with my previous poor idle/running condition. 
-----Dani B. #5003






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 11:47:08 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: What motor oil to use.

My 2 cents would be the lighter the oil the more noise the chains will
make,the pressure gauge normally doesn't read correctly and the pressure
will drop more at idle. Whether use synthetics or conventional Hot weather
like in Texas I use 20-50.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Joseph Kuchan
Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 10:30 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: What motor oil to use.


I "second" Dave's choice of Mobil1 15W-50. Actually, if you look at the
detailed specs for that oil and other "competing" oils, you 'll see little
difference in the "pour points" of the synthetic 15W-50 and most
conventional 10W-30 and even 5W-30 oils. What does that mean? It means don't
be too scared to use Mobil 1 15W-50 oil even in moderately low temps. Mobil1
15W-50 also excels at high temps. (As do some other oils, especially
synthetics.)

The SAE viscosity ratings of oils are AT BEST an extremely rough guide to
the "flowability" of oils at various temps.

My son has been using Mobil 1 15W-50 in his car and we recently had his
motor on a stand with the valve covers and oil pan off. The parts we could
inspect were absolutely immaculate.

I am also convinced that synthetic oil is the way to go.

-Joe Kuchan


>>Manual states 20W50 for hot weather. This sounds "heavy" but is not
>>unusual for Euro engines of that era. I've started using 15W50 Mobil 1
>>(after doing a teardown on a 150K-mile BMW engine that had always run
>>Mobil 1 I was sold). Oil is like a religious argument - you'll get a
>>ton of opinions on this one, and unless you drive it 100K miles and
>>then tear it down, you'll never figure out who's right.
>>
>>I know many folks running 10W30 without issue. In any case I'm
>>convinced that full synthtetic is well worth the money.







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 11:56:25 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Cold Start System

Todd, It's like David and Elvis has said, there could be a problem in the
solenoid. The correlation between the starting and the accessories
connection are totally independent of each other. The car could start fine
and the accessories connection could be bad inside the solenoid. There are
solenoid pictures on the web site for further help.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Todd Nelson
Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 6:41 AM
To: DMC-News
Subject: [DML] Cold Start System


List:

In my attempt to figure out my occasional odd starting problem, I think I
may have found something and would like your opinion.  I think my problem
has been lying in the fact that my cold start valve never actually fires.  I
have verified that the valve itself is operational by replacing it's power
source with that of the CPR, and gas squirts just fine.  So you are probably
thinking that my thermal time switch is bad, I ruled that out by verifying
that there is continuity between the two terminals on the TTS when there
should be.  I even bypassed the TTS altogether and manually grounded the
cold start valve and still nothing.  Then I put the voltage meter on the
cold start valve connector and found that there were only 9-10 volts while
cranking.  Is this enough juice to fire the cold start valve?  I figured it
would need a full 12, so this lead me to think that maybe my starter
solenoid is failing and not giving enough voltage to the cold start valve.
Do you think my conclusion is correct?  However, it would seem odd that my
starter solenoid would be failing yet the starter motor itself would
function just fine, but I guess it's possible.  Also, I have taken off all
of the solenoid wire connections and cleaned them thoroughly and the battery
is new with a full charge.  Kevin, you mentioned a while back that you had
the same issue, you may want to check the voltage to the cold start valve
too.

Also, thanks to John Hervey for spending the time on the phone yesterday
about this problem.

Thanks,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 12:28:41 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Weird idle when I first start the car.

It should be stable, but a little tweeking on the mixture screw might be in
order but only when it's warmed up. Are all the 3 throttle body screws on
top tightened down and the car is in time with no other vacuum leaks.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of sweetp01569
Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 6:05 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Weird idle when I first start the car.


I am not bothered my this too much, but when I first start my car (at
anytime during the day and temperature, the idle goes up and down,
cycling every two seconds or so.  The RPM needle fluctuates between
900 and 950.  After about a minute the engine smooths out at 950 and
no more up and down.  This only occurs starting the car from cold.

Any ideas what might cause this?

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 17:30:45 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Weird idle when I first start the car.

I'll have to check these items, John.

Thanks,

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> It should be stable, but a little tweeking on the mixture screw 

might be in

>> order but only when it's warmed up. Are all the 3 throttle body 

screws on

>> top tightened down and the car is in time with no other vacuum 

leaks.

>> John Hervey
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On 

Behalf

>> Of sweetp01569
>> Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 6:05 AM
>> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [DML] Weird idle when I first start the car.
>> 
>> 
>> I am not bothered my this too much, but when I first start my car 

(at

>> anytime during the day and temperature, the idle goes up and down,
>> cycling every two seconds or so.  The RPM needle fluctuates between
>> 900 and 950.  After about a minute the engine smooths out at 950 

and

>> no more up and down.  This only occurs starting the car from cold.
>> 
>> Any ideas what might cause this?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul
>> Vin 10944
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 

address:

>> moderators_at_dml_d...
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 

www.dmcnews.com

>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 13:20:48 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Slow starting

I would check the cold start system and the voltage going to the coil on the
lower right side of the resistor. Should be 9+ volts. If you have one of the
blue coils either new or old then the out put voltage going to the plugs
will be lower with less power and as the starting voltage is lower the
output to the plugs will be lower.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of stainlessilusion
Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 10:45 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Slow starting


Better then no starting...I just did the CO adjustment and the car
idles and runs great. It will start right up unless it sits over
night. When I try to start it, it WILL start, but I have to crank it
for about 15 seconds while the motor is trying to slowly turn over.
It
doesn't just crank, you can hear the engine burning the fuel and
trying to start, but it just takes a bit for it to finally run, as if
it was either starved or has too much fuel. Any Ideas? Thanks again
to
everyone who helped me with my previous poor idle/running condition.
-----Dani B. #5003






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 18:18:49 -0000
From: "JSJB100" <jsjb100_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Castrol GT LMA

Hey

I got mine at Pep Boys...There is one at 1021 Niagara Falls Blvd 
Amherst, NY ...while you are there, have a hot dog at Teds!

Joe B.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>> Would anyone know of any chain store (Walmart, Partsource, etc) 

where they

>> sell the proper Dot 4 fluid Castrol GT LMA for the clutch can be 

found? The

>> reason I ask is because I live in Niagara Falls Ontario, and I 

can't find

>> any place in Canada that carries it. It would be much simpler to 

head over

>> to NY State (about 2 miles away) to pick some up. I figured I 

could save a

>> couple of hours of hunting if I knew where to start.
>> 
>> BTW - I know it's available on-line but I was hoping to get some 

before the

>> weekend.
>> 
>> - Mike Walsh
>> #17084







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 13:04:35 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Slow starting

Sounds like the timing is set too far advanced.  Check the vacuum line 
connections, too.
Warren at DMC


stainlessilusion wrote:

>> Better then no starting...I just did the CO adjustment and the car 
>> idles and runs great. It will start right up unless it sits over 
>> night. When I try to start it, it WILL start, but I have to crank it 
>> for about 15 seconds while the motor is trying to slowly turn over.
>> It 
>> doesn't just crank, you can hear the engine burning the fuel and 
>> trying to start, but it just takes a bit for it to finally run, as if 
>> it was either starved or has too much fuel. Any Ideas? Thanks again
>> to 
>> everyone who helped me with my previous poor idle/running condition. 
>> -----Dani B. #5003
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 17:53:03 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: What motor oil to use.

Interesting - I can't say that I've ever noticed chain noise on this 
car. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> My 2 cents would be the lighter the oil the more noise the chains will
>> make,the pressure gauge normally doesn't read correctly and the 

pressure

>> will drop more at idle. 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 11:33:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: Re: What motor oil to use.

 
There are lots of posts about oil in the archives (LOTS... as I recall), but I'll "third" Dave and Joe's comments.  I've been using the 15-50 Mobil 1 in 1063 for almost 30,000 miles.  I change it every 6,000 miles and it drains a transparent brown.  Definitely the cleanest oil I've ever seen drained from an engine.  -And the PRV doesn't use a drop.
 
I don't know if that says more about the oil or the PRV (or the Purflux filter), but I'm sticking with all three!
 
Jake Kamphoefner
PS. --> My local Walmart carries Mobil 1 15-50 in a 5-quart jug, making that 7-quart fill a snap.


Joseph Kuchan <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
I "second" Dave's choice of Mobil1 15W-50. Actually, if you look at the 
detailed specs for that oil and other "competing" oils, you 'll see little 
difference in the "pour points" of the synthetic 15W-50 and most 
conventional 10W-30 and even 5W-30 oils. What does that mean? It means don't 
be too scared to use Mobil 1 15W-50 oil even in moderately low temps. Mobil1 
15W-50 also excels at high temps. (As do some other oils, especially 
synthetics.)
<snip>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 14:45:43 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: What motor oil to use.

I've heard 'em.  Oil pressure was >5psi.  We finally found a piece of 
clear cellephane over the screen on the scavenging tube. They start to 
sound like a threshing machine when the tensioners collapse.
Warren at DMC


Dave Swingle wrote:

>> Interesting - I can't say that I've ever noticed chain noise on this 
>> car. 
>> 
>> Dave S
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>> 
>
>>>>My 2 cents would be the lighter the oil the more noise the chains will
>>>>make,the pressure gauge normally doesn't read correctly and the 
>
>> 
>> pressure
>> 
>
>>>>will drop more at idle. 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 13:21:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Randy Harriman <randyharriman01_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: NC Gathering

Darren,

Thanks for the reply.  Your Delorean gathering  looked
like a lot of fun!  If you Tarheels have another
get-together, let us in the Old Dominion know, you are
not too far away from 3 of us owners here in Roanoke,
VA.  We are talking about an informal BTTF get
together sometime here.

Barry Hartman  #10597
barryh334_at_dml_hotmail.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------