Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2783
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:7 Aug 2005 17:36:53 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

2. Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

3. re newbie and another starting/idle problem
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

4. doors rubbing T panel
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

5. My Delorean to be on VH1 and in the theaters!!
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

6. Experience replacing the crank seal (behind main pulley)
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

7. Oil pressure switch removal and proper tool
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

8. Portland (OR) 29th All British Field Meet
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

9. Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

12. While I'm in there... (passenger knee pad removed)
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>

13. Re: Oil pressure switch removal and proper tool
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

14. Cracked Binnacle
From: "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: My Delorean to be on VH1 and in the theaters!!
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: doors rubbing T panel
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

17. Re: Oil pressure switch removal and proper tool
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

18. Re: While I'm in there... (passenger knee pad removed)
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 22:00:13 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Timed 13 degrees with CO set, Vac lines are correct, and I'm still
having trouble. I just took out the intake to clean everything and
rebuilt the mixture control unit to make sure there were no air leaks,
there were some air leaks around #102772 which is now all fixed. I'm
now confident that there are no air leaks at all. Anyway, when I start
up the car it will misfire at anything over 2000-2500 RPM until engine
is warm. Warm or not now- when accelerating from idle I get a quick
burst of black or blueish smoke [depending on CO adjustment], and the
engine will take a second to respond, as if the sudden increase in air
is too much for it to handle. Also sounds like misfiring at high RPM
range, over 5000; obviously this happens when the engine is warm, I
could never get it to rev this high cold with these problems. I never
had these problems when the engine was out of time, and even for the
first few days when it was changed back to 13 and distributor fixed,
now the running quality is deteriorating! CPR bad? fuel distributor? I
will be replacing the CPR within the next few days, because it's
likely to be original and I've replaced most everything else anyway,
so why not I figure. Other then that, I'm out of ideas...As always,
any help is greatly appreciated. -----Dani B. #5003





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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 22:03:13 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Forgot to mention I also have small black pieces of soot coming out of
my exhaust on acceleration...-----Dani B. #5003





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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 23:53:53 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: re newbie and another starting/idle problem

Hi all

steve here from the UK. imported my car about a year ago and still 
trying to get her roadworthy!.
car was stored 12+ years

have replaced tank, pump, fuel filters, screen etc. flushed system 
through with petrol/cleaner. new battery fully charged.

i haven't checked injectors, plugs, distributor etc.

now car will start after 5 seconds of cranking when cold, has 
erratic idle that seeks, then will try to stall but can be 'saved', 
by pushing the accelerator (gas) pedal.
then if run for 5 minutes will not start untill left 1/2+ hours.
now could do with a few pointers if anyone can help!!
i am assuming cold start valve is OK?
was looking to start by changing the 02 sensor, and check all earth 
points?

regards all

Steve
VIN 1621




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 00:15:44 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: doors rubbing T panel

Hi all

since replacing my door struts, my doors now rub the T panel.

the T panel looks the correct height and alignment, the only 
adjustment as far as i can see is upward.

i can't see how upward adjustment will make the doors miss touching 
the panel.

my question is do i need to adjust the T panel, or are my (UK) 
supplied struts too long? (does anyone have the correct length?)

its frustrating as everytime i open the door i know i'm damaging the 
top edge corner of the door, only slight but when the cars your 
pride and joy...

thankyou for any help.

regards

Steve
VIN 1621




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 20:41:59 -0400
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: My Delorean to be on VH1 and in the theaters!!

I just got home from a video shoot with VH1 in NYC today.  They are using my
Delorean for some promo spots for the upcoming "I love the 80s - 3D" (third
installment of the series)
 
I was on the shooting location from 10:00-6:30 today and it was a treat to
not only work with the crew, but to see how much interest my car generated
by passers by, the actors, and the crew!
 
>From what I can tell, two commercial promos were shot today.
 
The first has "Mr.. 80s" walking around the city with a BIG boombox, and
people freezing after they see him (not sure what this was all about...)
there were other actors dressed in some pretty outlandish 80s garb also.   I
believe that this will be a promotion used in the movie theaters in the next
couple of months.   The end features Mr.. 80s hitchhiking and catching a
ride in my car.  I did all the driving, but you don't see me in the final
shoots.   They put a plate on my car that said "I {HEART} 80s 3D"  (heart
was a symbol).   I tried to keep the plate, but the production crew said I
couldn't.   :( 
 
The second shoot was my car with a red carpet, red velvet ropes (VIP style)
and dry ice smoke filtering out.   Little did I know, that they had Corey
Feldman set up to do the shoot!  I got to talk to him for a while and have
my picture taken with him also.  He told me he LOVED the car.   :) 
 
The guy from the movie car rental company (who set me up with the gig and
flat bedded my car into and out of the city) told me he has worked with
hundreds of cars (some costing millions of dollars) on movie sets, video
shoots, etc... and has NEVER seen a car get as much attention as my Delorean
did.  He was amazed!
 
There is no set "air date" since it is a commercial spot.  If anyone happens
to catch it and can record it for me...PLEASE DO!!!!!!
 
I am working on putting some shots online, but here are a couple for now:
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/scrapbook/love80s/CRW_8197.jpg  Corey
Feldman shooting the promo  (Note...he has 3D glasses on under the
sunglasses that were used later in the shoot)
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/scrapbook/love80s/DSC05086b.jpg  Me with
Corey Feldman
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/scrapbook/love80s/CRW_8138.jpg  The car
with the plate
 
 
Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 01:10:26 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Experience replacing the crank seal (behind main pulley)

Hi folks,

I thought I'd share my experience in replacing the crankshaft 
lipseal (the seal for the crank behind the main pulley) with the 
group.

I have been on a campaign to seal all traces of oil leaks on my 
daily driver car, and the crankshaft seal was next on my list. It 
was surprisingly straightforward with no surprises in the process.

The following are the steps I followed and some of the tricks I 
applied:

- My exhaust clamp securing the catalytic converter to the muffler 
looked like hell, so I didn't even bother trying to unscrew it. I 
just cut it off in 90 seconds using my Dremel. A new 2" clamp at 
Napa was $1.25, so there was no point in trying to put a wrench to 
the rusted piece of junk.

- The junction between the muffler and the catalytic converter has a 
spit at every 90 degrees, so I loosned the fit a little by putting a 
screwdriver in each slit and spreading a little. The muffler is 
stainless and the 175K-mile catalytic converter fitting looked fine 
as well. To my surprised, the muffler and catalytic converter moved 
freely after minor manipulation.

- I removed the muffler heatsheild (5 nuts and washers).

- Next, I removed the muffler brackets and a couple of the muffler 
bushings. The way the muffler is mounted it is captured between some 
of the bushings, so it was easier to just remove the brackets 
entirely.

- I left the top passenger-side muffler bracket in place, but 
removed the bushing from it and loosened the bracket enough to get 
good play in the muffler. The top passenger-side hook on the muffler 
is helpful to keep the one end of the muffler supported temporarily.

- The muffler can now be pulled towards the driver's side of the car 
and pulled free of the catalytic converter and lifted free of the 
car. The muffler and heatsheidl needs to come out to give you 
reasonable access to the nut on the crank. This disassembly was 
really simple and took less than one beer to complete.

- In order to give me sufficient clearance to get my impact wrench 
on the nut, I did not need to remove the rear fascia. I only had to 
remove the lower reinforcement plate (not sure what it's called or 
the specific part number, but its at the very bottom of the page in 
section 1.5.0 in the parts manual) for the rear fascia since the 
bottom of the fascia is flexible enough to give you direct access to 
the nut. The 10mm nuts that areont he studs secured inthe fascia are 
often broken off, so be careful wrenching on these. Mine are all 
fine and easy to work -- I think there are 5 nuts along the top of 
the plate and 7 across the bottom. Unless your nuts are seized to 
your studs and you break them off, this is also a trivial removal. 
If you're not sure about the condition of these nuts/studs, you 
should soak them well with a penetrating lubricant since many folks 
report breaking these off.

- Now you just put your impact wrench on the nut and unscrew it. In 
my case, the size of the nut measured with my calipers as 35mm 
(1.375" or 1 3/8"). I used a 1 3/8 socket on it and it was a good 
fit. First put a breaker bar on the nut and turn the motor over 
until the top dead center mark on the pulley is pointing straight up 
so the Woodruff key doesn't fall out of its slot and into the bottom 
of the inside timing chain cover (this would be VERY BAD). The key 
must point straight up in order to avoid the potential of it getting 
dislodged.

- The pulley is not pressed on and slides off once the nut is 
removed. By chance I had one of the Grady stainless sleeves on
hand from when I replaced the transmission axel seal, and in a stroke of coincidence, this same sleeve will also fit the pulley
flange. In my case the flange was a bit marred, and the stainless
sleeve should provide a better surface for the seal.

- With the pulley off, the seal can be removed. It can be removed 
with a screwdriver, but I used a 3-prong seal puller since it avoids 
any marring of the surface the seal is pressed into.

- After lubrating the new seal, using a suitable diameter socket or 
other item to protect the seal, tap it into place. There is no stop 
at the bottom of the race, so be careful to tap it inot place to the 
proper depth by checking progress frequently.

- At this point just put everything back together. Use a little blue 
Loctite on the nut since it is obviously subject to vibration and 
rotation, and use antisieze on all the nuts for the bottom rear 
fascia stiffener plate.

Like I said, it was a pretty straightforward procedure with no 
particular difficulty or surprises. I hope you find the comments 
about my experience useful.

    Knut






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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 01:16:14 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Oil pressure switch removal and proper tool

In the process of stamping out all possible hinds of oil residue from 
my car, I noticed when I had my muffler and heatshield off that the 
oil pressure switch (on the driver's side -- not the one by the oil 
filter) is also wet and so I think I'll replace it as well.

I'm a bit puzzled about the proper sized wrench for the sensor. 22mm 
is too small, and 24mm is too loose (I'm not pulling on a loose 
fitting wrench and rounding the fastener off). According to my 
calipers, 23mm should be just right, but a 23mm wrench is not a 
standard tool. Convering to standard (in case it's some trowback) 
gives me 29/32 which is also far from a standard tool size.

What is the proper tool size to wrench the oil sender with? Is it 
indeed some special-order 23mm odd-ball?

     Knut





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 01:20:01 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Portland (OR) 29th All British Field Meet

For those that might be interested in a nice event in the Portland 
area, the All British Field Meet is held each year at the Portland 
International Raceway during Labor Day Weekend. The DeLorean is 
wekcome at this event (usually it's class AA-09).

I always enjoy the ABFM as it seems to draw folks that are truly 
interested in cars and their histories, and I never fail to enjoy 
meeting folks from the last few meets plus new characters as well.

You can get more information at www.abfm-pdx.com

     Knut






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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 21:01:01 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Dani,

I'm just jumping into this thread and haven't read any of the previous 
messages so I apologize if this has beren suggested before or if you've 
already checked these things out.

Have you already checked the fuel pressure both cold and warm? If you 
haven't, then you owe it to your sanity to get a K-Jet fuel pressure test 
set and find out. If they are correct don't throw money at a new CPR.

Black smoke means a rich mixture. Fuel related misfire is most often due to 
a lean condition, not an overly rich one. I would suspect ignition issues 
before fuel if you're blowing black smoke and still missing. Although you 
could have BOTH at the same time. For example, you could have a lean 
cylinder or two due to clogged injectors or a faulty fuel distributor. Those 
cylinders might misfire due to being too lean.

The lambda sensor might then attempt to compenasate for what it thinks is a 
lean-running motor (Remember, it sniffs the composite exhaust stream from 
all cylinders.) which would make it tend to drive the good cylinders in the 
motor rich. Those cylinders might then smoke.

If you haven't already, check all the plugs and "read" them. That may point 
you in the direction of something that is affecting just a few cylinders or 
something that is affecting the whole motor.

Also, when was the last time your lambda sensor was replaced? I think I 
would replace that if it is old, and if your motor has not been running 
right for a while, I might change it even if it isn't so old. If it is 
sooted up or otherwise "poisoned" (and that can happen if the car has run 
too rich for too long) then it might be dead. I'd check to see what the ECU 
is trying to do with you motoro  by placing a dwell meter on the frequency 
valve.

Blue smoke means oil burning.

It sounds like you need to do some trouble-shooting. Even though you say 
you've replaced most everything, I bet that there is still plenty of good 
money that could go chasing after the bad if you keep throwing parts at it. 
We've all been there before out of frustration, but in my experience it 
usually results in spending a lot of money needlessly and does not usually 
lead you to the answer faster than old-fashioned troubleshooting. Good luck!

-Joe Kuchan




>>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
>>Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 22:00:13 -0000
>>
>>Timed 13 degrees with CO set, Vac lines are correct, and I'm still
>>having trouble. I just took out the intake to clean everything and
>>rebuilt the mixture control unit to make sure there were no air leaks,
>>there were some air leaks around #102772 which is now all fixed. I'm
>>now confident that there are no air leaks at all. Anyway, when I start
>>up the car it will misfire at anything over 2000-2500 RPM until engine
>>is warm. Warm or not now- when accelerating from idle I get a quick
>>burst of black or blueish smoke [depending on CO adjustment], and the
>>engine will take a second to respond, as if the sudden increase in air
>>is too much for it to handle. Also sounds like misfiring at high RPM
>>range, over 5000; obviously this happens when the engine is warm, I
>>could never get it to rev this high cold with these problems. I never
>>had these problems when the engine was out of time, and even for the
>>first few days when it was changed back to 13 and distributor fixed,
>>now the running quality is deteriorating! CPR bad? fuel distributor? I
>>will be replacing the CPR within the next few days, because it's
>>likely to be original and I've replaced most everything else anyway,
>>so why not I figure. Other then that, I'm out of ideas...As always,
>>any help is greatly appreciated. -----Dani B. #5003
>>





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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 02:39:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Sounds like an ignition problem now. I would check the ignition wires
and the spark plugs. Make sure the distributer cap is on correctly
too. If it isn't seated right on the casting you will get misfires.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Forgot to mention I also have small black pieces of soot coming out of
>> my exhaust on acceleration...-----Dani B. #5003






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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 03:07:02 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

I'd say replace the CPR but I'm just kinda pondering the hesitation problem. 
  I don't want to say something and be way out of left field so replace the 
CPR and let us know how the engine is behaving.  Your description is pretty 
accurate.  I'm sure with a little more we can figure out the problem.

Right now we could try a whole list of things but it really seems as though 
it's fuel/air related.  Hmmmmm, hows the ignition system?  Anything new?  
Also double check the SP Wires to make sure they're going to the correct 
spot on the Distibutor Cap.  I know that sounds a bit dumb because if you 
can rebuild a distributor you can certainly connect the wires properly.  I 
had a different kind of car perform in a similar fashion when a few of the 
wires were crossed.  Instead of firing in time a spark plug would fire on 
the wrong stroke which might explain the puffs of smoke and the misfire at 
high RPMS.

I know for a fact a V-6 can run somewhat decent with a "dead" cylinder and 
it'll really puff along during acceleration.  If one of your cylinders isn't 
firing it would account for the "misfire" and puffs especially in the high 
RPM range.

Also check your appropriate relays and the resistor for the ignition system. 
  Perhaps there might be a clue??  Again, this is just off the top of my 
head.

Jeff in NC


>>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
>>Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 22:00:13 -0000
>>
>>Timed 13 degrees with CO set, Vac lines are correct, and I'm still
>>having trouble. I just took out the intake to clean everything and
>>rebuilt the mixture control unit to make sure there were no air leaks,
>>there were some air leaks around #102772 which is now all fixed. I'm
>>now confident that there are no air leaks at all. Anyway, when I start
>>up the car it will misfire at anything over 2000-2500 RPM until engine
>>is warm. Warm or not now- when accelerating from idle I get a quick
>>burst of black or blueish smoke [depending on CO adjustment], and the
>>engine will take a second to respond, as if the sudden increase in ai





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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 23:21:22 -0000
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: While I'm in there... (passenger knee pad removed)

With much discomfort I removed the passenger knee pad and the glove
box assembly today.  This leaves most of the right side under-dash
accessible.  Anything else I ought to do before reassembly?  I don't
want to have to go under there again.  

Things to consider:
My A/C needs to be recharged.  Most suggestions in the archives say to
try to find R12 so I'll make some calls next week.  Is there anything
the A/C guys need to get to under the dash to recharge it?  The
manuals imply that it's all on the compressor in the engine
compartment.

Also my fan switch is on full blast at "0" and if you turn it to
anything else it turns off.  I'll have to figure that one out
eventually, but better stuck "on" than "off."  Any reason I'd need
access through the side of the dash to fix this?  Looks like a
straight shot through the console but I'm new to this.

I'd rather not drive her around too much with parts missing or hanging
out, doesn't help anyone's reputation.
Thanks,

-Steelskin
#5572







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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 03:29:52 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure switch removal and proper tool

Use the loose one. It't not in there very tight. I'm not sure but I 
think it may be standard, I just get what's close and use it. 

BTW all the leakage is around the center pin where the wire goes. It's 
kind of a cheesy plastic gasket.  If you don't get the new one snug (or 
if you accidently loosen in in the process of connecting the wire) it'l 
leak too! Good thing the switch is cheap. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_i...> wrote:

>> In the process of stamping out all possible hinds of oil residue from 
>> my car, I noticed when I had my muffler and heatshield off that the 
>> oil pressure switch (on the driver's side -- not the one by the oil 
>> filter) is also wet and so I think I'll replace it as well.
>> 
>> I'm a bit puzzled about the proper sized wrench for the sensor. 







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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 04:09:18 -0000
From: "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Cracked Binnacle

Hello Again!

While peering through my windshield today I was really bummed to see a very narrow 1.5" - 
2" crack at the base of my instrument binnacle.

Does anyone know of a way to fill in the crack so that it doesn't grow?

- Geoff
10718




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 05:57:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: My Delorean to be on VH1 and in the theaters!!

Wow, you can even see the PJ Grady sticker on the
door!  

I wonder why they liked your car better than mine? 

 :) 



--- Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net> wrote:


>> I just got home from a video shoot with VH1 in NYC
>> today.  They are using my

<SNIP>




		
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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 13:10:25 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: doors rubbing T panel

You can adjust (move it) left to right. Usually this alignment is to 
get equal spacing on the rear panels where the T panel meets them. 
But, you may need to move it to get adequate door spacing.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> Hi all
>> 
>> since replacing my door struts, my doors now rub the T panel.
>> 
>> the T panel looks the correct height and alignment, the only 
>> adjustment as far as i can see is upward.
>> 
>> i can't see how upward adjustment will make the doors miss 

touching 

>> the panel.
>> 
>> my question is do i need to adjust the T panel, or are my (UK) 
>> supplied struts too long? (does anyone have the correct length?)
>> 
>> its frustrating as everytime i open the door i know i'm damaging 

the 

>> top edge corner of the door, only slight but when the cars your 
>> pride and joy...
>> 
>> thankyou for any help.
>> 
>> regards
>> 
>> Steve
>> VIN 1621





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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 13:34:11 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure switch removal and proper tool

Given the low-torque nature of the switch - I've found that a 15/16 
six-point works fine.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_i...> 
wrote:

>> In the process of stamping out all possible hinds of oil residue 

from 

>> my car, I noticed when I had my muffler and heatshield off that the 
>> oil pressure switch (on the driver's side -- not the one by the oil 
>> filter) is also wet and so I think I'll replace it as well.
>> 
>> I'm a bit puzzled about the proper sized wrench for the sensor. 22mm 
>> is too small, and 24mm is too loose (I'm not pulling on a loose 
>> fitting wrench and rounding the fastener off). According to my 
>> calipers, 23mm should be just right, but a 23mm wrench is not a 
>> standard tool. Convering to standard (in case it's some trowback) 
>> gives me 29/32 which is also far from a standard tool size.
>> 
>> What is the proper tool size to wrench the oil sender with? Is it 
>> indeed some special-order 23mm odd-ball?
>> 
>>      Knut





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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 14:03:22 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: While I'm in there... (passenger knee pad removed)

Most AC service is outside the passenger compartment. However, the 
electrics and fan switch should be working before ac can be setup 
properly.

The fan switch has probably been broken or moved from its proper 
position.

The mode switch should work all the vent doors w/o leaks and the 
temp control should move the plenum door adequately from cold to 
hot. Most mode switches require a rebuild. Few OEM switches are 
still working properly.

If the AC needs complete service you will have to get the proper 
parts for the ac guys - orifice tube, accumulator, seals, etc.

Harold McElraft - 3354




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_n...> 
wrote:

>> With much discomfort I removed the passenger knee pad and the glove
>> box assembly today.  This leaves most of the right side under-dash
>> accessible.  Anything else I ought to do before reassembly?  I 

don't

>> want to have to go under there again.  
>> 
>> Things to consider:
>> My A/C needs to be recharged.  Most suggestions in the archives 

say to

>> try to find R12 so I'll make some calls next week.  Is there 

anything

>> the A/C guys need to get to under the dash to recharge it?  The
>> manuals imply that it's all on the compressor in the engine
>> compartment.
>> 
>> Also my fan switch is on full blast at "0" and if you turn it to
>> anything else it turns off.  I'll have to figure that one out
>> eventually, but better stuck "on" than "off."  Any reason I'd need
>> access through the side of the dash to fix this?  Looks like a
>> straight shot through the console but I'm new to this.
>> 
>> I'd rather not drive her around too much with parts missing or 

hanging

>> out, doesn't help anyone's reputation.
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> -Steelskin
>> #5572





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