Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2784
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:8 Aug 2005 16:38:37 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: doors rubbing T panel
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Oil pressure switch removal and proper tool
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. *Thank You * Pittsburgh Tech Session II
From: Daniel Plakosh <dplakosh2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Oil pressure switch removal and proper tool (my mistake)
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

5. Re: doors rubbing T panel
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>

6. Re: While I'm in there... (passenger knee pad removed)
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>

7. RE: doors rubbing T panel
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

8. Re: My Delorean to be on VH1 and in the theaters!!
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net

9. Workshop Manual Question
From: "Heather" <yachtgirl_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: While I'm in there... (passenger knee pad removed)
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>

11. Oil pressure switch replacement
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

12. Re: doors rubbing T panel
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

13. Above and beyond the call...
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

14. DMC sighting
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: doors rubbing T panel
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. RE: Oil pressure switch replacement
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Tail Light boards
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. RE: doors rubbing T panel
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

19. Brake job
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

21. Mixture Control Unit
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

22. Re: doors rubbing T panel
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

23. Re: Fuel Pump Seizure
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

24. Re: Mixture Control Unit
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Re: *Thank You * Pittsburgh Tech Session II
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 15:06:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: doors rubbing T panel

You need to replace the foam under the Tee roof. It holds it up so it
doesn't rub. When you reinstall the Tee roof it need to be centered so
the gap on both doors on top is equal, you can use your fingers to
measure it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>> You can adjust (move it) left to right. Usually this alignment is to 
>> get equal spacing on the rear panels where the T panel meets them. 
>> But, you may need to move it to get adequate door spacing.
>> 
>> Harold McElraft - 3354
>> 
>> 









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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 15:07:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure switch removal and proper tool

The old switch can be resealed. Take it all apart, clean it up, and
reassemble using silicone sealer.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> Use the loose one. It't not in there very tight. I'm not sure but I 
>> think it may be standard, I just get what's close and use it. 
>> 
>> BTW all the leakage is around the center pin where the wire goes. It's 
>> kind of a cheesy plastic gasket.  If you don't get the new one snug (or 
>> if you accidently loosen in in the process of connecting the wire) it'l 
>>








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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 08:49:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel Plakosh <dplakosh2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: *Thank You * Pittsburgh Tech Session II

All,
 
We'd like to thank everyone that attended the Pittsburgh Tech Session II  this past Saturday.  We had a great time and really enjoyed meeting all our old and new friends.  It's rare to find such a large group of people in one place that you could say you are happy to have in your home.  We hope everyone had a good time,  arrived home safely, and we also hope to see everyone again next year. 
 
Best regards,
 
Dan & Judy


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 16:34:11 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure switch removal and proper tool (my mistake)

I had some folks drop me a note on the side pointing out my mistaken 
assumption of 23mm being an oddball tool size. With the size not being 
in my combination tool kits (either sockets or wrenches) and the local 
NAPA not carrying it, I had mistakenly presumed it was something 
oddball. However, it is apparently not that unusual and it's listed at 
Sears as a run-o-the mill tool.

Sorry about my mistake in asking for a tool I can get at my local 
Sears (sheepish grin).

    Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_i...> 
wrote:
<snip>

>> 
>> I'm a bit puzzled about the proper sized wrench for the sensor. 22mm 
>> is too small, and 24mm is too loose (I'm not pulling on a loose 
>> fitting wrench and rounding the fastener off). According to my 
>> calipers, 23mm should be just right, but a 23mm wrench is not a 
>> standard tool.







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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 16:51:12 -0000
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: doors rubbing T panel

My driver's door rubs ever so slightly at the back corner.  When both
doors are fully open, both of the door corners touch the T-panel
corners.  I've got the driver's b-pillar weatherstrip removed at
present and the screws removed to clean the glue off.  I don't see a
way to adjust it besides vertically since the holes line up pretty
straight.  If I pop it up I'll have a gap at my rear quarters, and I
can't move it further back as it's already butted up against the b-pillar.
Can you clarify how to adjust the T-panel for us?
Thanks,

-John
#5572

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>> You can adjust (move it) left to right. Usually this alignment is to 
>> get equal spacing on the rear panels where the T panel meets them. 
>> But, you may need to move it to get adequate door spacing.
>> 
>> Harold McElraft - 3354
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_y...> 
>> wrote:
>
>>> > Hi all
>>> > 
>>> > since replacing my door struts, my doors now rub the T panel.
>>> > 
>>> > the T panel looks the correct height and alignment, the only 
>>> > adjustment as far as i can see is upward.
>>> > 
>>> > i can't see how upward adjustment will make the doors miss 
>
>> touching 
>
>>> > the panel.
>>> > 
>>> > my question is do i need to adjust the T panel, or are my (UK) 
>>> > supplied struts too long? (does anyone have the correct length?)
>>> > 
>>> > its frustrating as everytime i open the door i know i'm damaging 
>
>> the 
>
>>> > top edge corner of the door, only slight but when the cars your 
>>> > pride and joy...
>>> > 
>>> > thankyou for any help.
>>> > 
>>> > regards
>>> > 
>>> > Steve
>>> > VIN 1621









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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 16:57:19 -0000
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: While I'm in there... (passenger knee pad removed)

I sat in the car yesterday for about 15 minutes playing with all the
dials and whatnot and I believe the mode switch is ok.  Makes the
thunking noise and little pressure noises when changing and I can feel
the difference as I change temps and everything so aside from the bum
fan switch it seems ok.  I'll remove/clean it and maybe I'll get
lucky, or maybe it's toast.

-Steelskin
#5572

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>> Most AC service is outside the passenger compartment. However, the 
>> electrics and fan switch should be working before ac can be setup 
>> properly.
>> 
>> The fan switch has probably been broken or moved from its proper 
>> position.
>> 
>> The mode switch should work all the vent doors w/o leaks and the 
>> temp control should move the plenum door adequately from cold to 
>> hot. Most mode switches require a rebuild. Few OEM switches are 
>> still working properly.
>> 
>> If the AC needs complete service you will have to get the proper 
>> parts for the ac guys - orifice tube, accumulator, seals, etc.
>> 
>> Harold McElraft - 3354
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_n...> 
>> wrote:
>
>>> > With much discomfort I removed the passenger knee pad and the glove
>>> > box assembly today.  This leaves most of the right side under-dash
>>> > accessible.  Anything else I ought to do before reassembly?  I 
>
>> don't
>
>>> > want to have to go under there again.  
>>> > 
>>> > Things to consider:
>>> > My A/C needs to be recharged.  Most suggestions in the archives 
>
>> say to
>
>>> > try to find R12 so I'll make some calls next week.  Is there 
>
>> anything
>
>>> > the A/C guys need to get to under the dash to recharge it?  The
>>> > manuals imply that it's all on the compressor in the engine
>>> > compartment.
>>> > 
>>> > Also my fan switch is on full blast at "0" and if you turn it to
>>> > anything else it turns off.  I'll have to figure that one out
>>> > eventually, but better stuck "on" than "off."  Any reason I'd need
>>> > access through the side of the dash to fix this?  Looks like a
>>> > straight shot through the console but I'm new to this.
>>> > 
>>> > I'd rather not drive her around too much with parts missing or 
>
>> hanging
>
>>> > out, doesn't help anyone's reputation.
>>> > Thanks,
>>> > 
>>> > -Steelskin
>>> > #5572








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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 14:31:28 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: doors rubbing T panel

I had the same problem. Turns out the foam spacer under the "T" panel turned
to dust and the panel was sagging. Remove the "T" panel and add a couple of
layers of 3/4" weather strip foam to build it back up, now the panel sits
where its supposed to.

Dave Sontos
Vin 02573

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
blackaddertoo
Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2005 8:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] doors rubbing T panel

Hi all

since replacing my door struts, my doors now rub the T panel.

the T panel looks the correct height and alignment, the only adjustment as
far as i can see is upward.

i can't see how upward adjustment will make the doors miss touching the
panel.

my question is do i need to adjust the T panel, or are my (UK) supplied
struts too long? (does anyone have the correct length?)

its frustrating as everytime i open the door i know i'm damaging the top
edge corner of the door, only slight but when the cars your pride and joy...






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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 20:08:05 +0000
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Re: My Delorean to be on VH1 and in the theaters!!

Sounds like a cool day Kevin! 

 I just hope that this version of "I Love the 80's" is a leap above their last shows.  The "I Love 81" segment they did on the original "I Love the 80's" series had to be one of the most negative and incorrect depictions of the Delorean story I have ever seen.  Especially when the wise ass host says John Delorean liked a little too much of the coke-aina, or whatever slang term he used for coke implying thats why the car failed and it was a joke.  Plus the other negative comments.  I would be surprised if this third installment is a postive depiction, but hopefully it is.  I think I would have requested a copy of the script and a nice paycheck before lending my car LOL.  

Gary

-------------- Original message -------------- 

I just got home from a video shoot with VH1 in NYC today.  They are using my Delorean for some promo spots for the upcoming "I love the 80s - 3D" (third installment of the series)

I was on the shooting location from 10:00-6:30 today and it was a treat to not only work with the crew, but to see how much interest my car generated by passers by, the actors, and the crew!




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 21:24:41 -0000
From: "Heather" <yachtgirl_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Workshop Manual Question

In section B on the Fuel Tank it says to refer to Section "S" for 
other fuel tank related information.  My table of contents ends at R 
(skipping Q like some others pointed out).  Is there an "S" 
section???  If it does exist and someone has it, I could use a copy.

Heather






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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 22:13:15 -0000
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: While I'm in there... (passenger knee pad removed)

Mua-hahaha!

I reassembled my passenger side dash (everything fits and works and
looks great - yay me!) and 2 seconds later I was attacking the center
console.  I somehow feel compelled to take my car apart.  Anyway I
yanked the fan switch out and brought it inside.

I took it apart.  There's some grease in there so I managed to only
drop it once.  I studied the layout of the internal components (5 plug
ends and a 2-prong dial with a bump) compared to the wiring diagram in
the workshop manual (M:18:19).  Apparently Hans Grunwold (it's a
German switch) was daydreaming at his assembly station 24 years ago
and put the dial part in upside down!  I popped it back in the car and
voila! 4 speeds AND an off position!  Everything works now except the
air isn't cold.

-Steelskin, who can pull the courtesy light fuse without even looking now.
#5572  
 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>> Most AC service is outside the passenger compartment. However, the 
>> electrics and fan switch should be working before ac can be setup 
>> properly.
>> 
>> The fan switch has probably been broken or moved from its proper 
>> position.
>> 
>> The mode switch should work all the vent doors w/o leaks and the 
>> temp control should move the plenum door adequately from cold to 
>> hot. Most mode switches require a rebuild. Few OEM switches are 
>> still working properly.
>> 
>> If the AC needs complete service you will have to get the proper 
>> parts for the ac guys - orifice tube, accumulator, seals, etc.
>> 
>> Harold McElraft - 3354
>> 







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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 23:41:35 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Oil pressure switch replacement

After getting the proper 23mm tools, I pulled the oil pressure 
switch today without any trouble.

After removing it I took a close look at it -- what a piece of junk! 
As Dave S. suggested, it appears to be leaking along the center 
terminal and in disassembling it to learn more about it I'm 
convinced that there are probably not any of these switches 
installed that don't weep.

I also discovered the reason my switch was a little stubborn in 
coming out. The copper sealing washer (crush washer) was missing on 
my switch so it was tightened directly against the lip. It didn't 
appear to be leaking around the lip, however, and it looked to be 
weeping primarily through the center.

I'm not installing that junk switch back in again and I'll take a 
close look at the replacement switch to see how it might be sealed 
up better before installing it. If you have wetness in the area 
where the driver's side muffler bracket attaches to the block, my 
guess is that your swith is also weeping. Like I said, based on its 
construction, I suspect they all weep to some degree.

    Knut









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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 23:55:36 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: doors rubbing T panel

Hi Dave

this is what i though..but the present height of the T panel seems 
to line through with the top of the door.

i have undone all the screws to the t panel and bent the rear clips
just now the sticky pad holding in place.
this pad is reluctant to let go and i don't want to bend the panel.

i still can't see that by raising the panel by 2 or 3mm the doors 
will miss.

any help would be appreciated.

regards

Steve
Vin1621






-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_v...> wrote:

>> I had the same problem. Turns out the foam spacer under the "T" 

panel turned

>> to dust and the panel was sagging. Remove the "T" panel and add a 

couple of

>> layers of 3/4" weather strip foam to build it back up, now the 

panel sits

>> where its supposed to.
>> 
>> Dave Sontos
>> Vin 02573
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 

Behalf Of

>> blackaddertoo
>> Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2005 8:16 PM
>> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [DML] doors rubbing T panel
>> 
>> Hi all
>> 
>> since replacing my door struts, my doors now rub the T panel.
>> 
>> the T panel looks the correct height and alignment, the only 

adjustment as

>> far as i can see is upward.
>> 
>> i can't see how upward adjustment will make the doors miss 

touching the

>> panel.
>> 
>> my question is do i need to adjust the T panel, or are my (UK) 

supplied

>> struts too long? (does anyone have the correct length?)
>> 
>> its frustrating as everytime i open the door i know i'm damaging 

the top

>> edge corner of the door, only slight but when the cars your pride 

and joy...







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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 00:48:53 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Above and beyond the call...

Dan and Judy put on one incredible get-together and then post a thank-
you note to thank us for eating all their food, dirtying up their 
house, using all their tools and generally wearing them out!

Simply put, I don't think I've ever met two kinder, more generous 
people than Dan and Judy Plakosh.

Despite all my plans, my A/C overhaul hit a few snags (the grossest of 
understatements). Dan helped me with it for nearly 20 total hours in 
addition to tending all of the other guests. I'd also like to thank 
Chris Bowman for all his help in getting my dash back together while I 
was at the other end of the car, and to all the Ohio crew for the 
photos they took and for keeping the humor flowing.

Thanks very much everyone,

Rich A.
#5335






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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 22:57:37 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DMC sighting

Hey group,
 
Not sure if anyone pointed this one out or not before, but in the movie  Blow 
starring Johnny Depp, there is a scene where his birthday party gets busted  
(he plays real-life drug dealer George Jung).  There is a slow-motion  montage 
of the FBI bursting in while Depp narrarates.  As the police go  down the 
driveway, you there is a Ferrari 308 in the driveway.  The next  time they show 
the driveway, in the background you can see just the door from a  DeLorean open 
up as the police search the area.  It's so hard to see you  wonder why they 
even put it in - I guess just for crazy people like us who watch  for this 
stuff!!
 
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 02:51:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: doors rubbing T panel

You are not supposed to bend the rear tabs. Remove the 3 screws
holding the plastic valence and rotate it as you remove it. You may
still have the plastic covers over the screws. Just pop the covers off
with a small screwdriver. There are 6 screws by the door opening under
the weatherstripping, 3 on each side. If the sticky pad (it isn't
sticky, just stuck) is holding you slide a puttyknife under it. Be
very careful, there are a lot of sharp edges on the S/S. The foam will
help, try it and you will see. With the Tee roof removed remove the
plate that is duct-taped down in the center of the roof. Clean the
whole area up and retape the plate back. The height in the rear of the
Tee roof is determined by the tabs and the rear valence. Be careful
with the plastic valence, they are hard to replace but easy to repair
(as long as you have all the pieces).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Hi Dave
>> 
>> this is what i though..but the present height of the T panel seems 
>> to line through with the top of the door.
>> 
>> i have undone all the screws to the t panel and bent the rear clips
>> just now the sticky pad holding in place.
>> joy...








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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 22:51:15 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Oil pressure switch replacement

Knut, I can't say they won't leak but the ones I sell have a sealing O ring
inside along with a nylon shoulder washer outside and inside.
Just an FYI
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of ksgrimsr
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 5:42 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Oil pressure switch replacement


After getting the proper 23mm tools, I pulled the oil pressure
switch today without any trouble.

After removing it I took a close look at it -- what a piece of junk!
As Dave S. suggested, it appears to be leaking along the center
terminal and in disassembling it to learn more about it I'm
convinced that there are probably not any of these switches
installed that don't weep.

--

I'm not installing that junk switch back in again and I'll take a
close look at the replacement switch to see how it might be sealed
up better before installing it. If you have wetness in the area
where the driver's side muffler bracket attaches to the block, my
guess is that your swith is also weeping. Like I said, based on its
construction, I suspect they all weep to some degree.

    Knut





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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 04:13:34 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Tail Light boards

Hello all again!

I'm glad Rob Grady is on the list because I want him and everybody 
else to read this.

If you don't have his improved tail light circuit boards then get 
them.  I just replaced my passenger side board with one of his and 
it is amazing.  My driver's side has a DMCH repro with the RShack 
screw fix and the difference in light is astounding.  It is 
literally about 10x brighter with Grady's board than with the repros 
with the screws, and they fit perfectly into the holders and snap 
right into place on the tail light panels themselves.  I still have 
to wack the driver's side every once and a while to get the brakes 
to light.

Just FYI to new owners and those who still have the old boards in 
there cars.

Japheth
VIN: 1223








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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 22:56:10 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: doors rubbing T panel

Dave and Group, If your needing the rubber closed cell foam I added it to
the web site a few days ago.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/accessories.html



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Dave Sontos
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 12:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] doors rubbing T panel


I had the same problem. Turns out the foam spacer under the "T" panel turned
to dust and the panel was sagging. Remove the "T" panel and add a couple of
layers of 3/4" weather strip foam to build it back up, now the panel sits
where its supposed to.

Dave Sontos
Vin 02573







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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 04:26:25 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Brake job

While I was changing out my steering rack. (Yes I did it by myself) 
I noticed that I had about 3 mm of pad left on my front brakes.  
Lord knows what the rear brakes look like.

To make a long story short I need to know how to properly change out 
the pads and bleed the system.  The calipers were replaced with 
reconditioned ones about 2 years ago so those are fine.  The pedal 
is a just a tad stiff but the brakes are still responsive.  I don't 
have to mash in the pedal either.

I figure that after changing out the steering rack (right of passage 
type repair) that changing the brake pads should be no problem.

I believe I also read on the list that I could use #80 grit 
sandpaper on a sandpaper attatchment for a rotary drill to break the 
glaze off of the rotors.  Just making sure that was correct.

Just e-mail me off list with any tips and help on how to do this

Thanks for everything

Japheth
VIN: 1223







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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 04:30:35 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Thank you to everyone who responded to my message and helping me with 
my ongoing troubles! Driving the car home it was running so bad 
[rich] that the only way I could make it idle and drive was to unplug 
the frequency valve from the bulkhead-and the car behaves somewhat 
normal now except still a misfire. Will unplugging this damage 
anything? Now I'll slow down and list the things I've replaced and my 
findings when scouting around the engine bay; maybe someone can 
identify an additional problem from my observations. 

I just took the 
intake off the other day, and the air passages of the mixture unit 
and intake were covered with black sludge [dirty air filter from 
PO?]. The intake ports [in the heads] were clean on the bottoms, but 
sides and tops have black soot, almost like carbon that's burned on, 
whatever it was- it was hard to clean off. I have the aftermarket 
filter from John Hervey, I keep it very clean so I'm imaging the 
gummy black stuff was accumulated over the course of the last 24 
years. All plugs had carbon on them indicating a rich (?) mixture. I 
rebuilt the mixture control unit to make sure there was nothing 
leaking air, sure enough #102772 was leaking [now fixed]. Upon 
inspection of the cap; the contacts were burned so I put on a new cap 
with the old rotor, I'm still waiting for the new one to come in 
[just ran to advance for these]. 

I just rebuilt the distributor 
[ignition] plus I have another one on the way which I'm going to swap 
with mine as well as a new tach wire. I tested the cold start valve 
and frequency valve, crimped and made sure everything is connecting 
well. I've replaced the plugs, wires, rotor 2 years ago (>6KMI on 
these). I just did the cap, and I replaced the lambda sensor 1 year 
ago. The CPR I've never replaced and many people have told me this 
could be one of my problems. 

So if you know me-like anything else 
that doesn't work-I ripped it off and opened it up to see if I could 
fix it. Fried wires; the white one (not the one with the green wrap 
on it) coming from the contact of the plug- melted the cover right 
off, and the second white wire that goes to the connector on the bolt 
was missing a good section that looked as if a good short blew it 
apart. 

So I found at least one of my problems, but what would cause 
this to happen? Without the heating parts working inside could this 
cause many of my described problems? Is there anything I should or 
can do or unplug to compensate for the bad CPR? I will check out the 
spark wires tomorrow, yeah I'm good with rebuilding engines and 
transmissions etc, but even a rocket scientist can cross a wire; it's 
that easy to do. I'm actually hoping that's what I did! I figured I 
may as well see if any of the wires are dead while I'm at it. I'll 
test the fuel pressures, voltages and ignition components as well. 
Hopefully after all of this I'll have a trouble-free car again! 
Also 
when it comes to CO adjustments, I can go the full range between rich 
and lean, and the FV doesn't wanna run continuously, but more at an 
erratic pace. If I push in the full throttle switch only then does it 
run continuously and sound `healthy'. Is this because of the CPR? By 
the way, I'm doing all the tests and adjusting with the O2 sensor 
unplugged just incase. Thanks again for ALL the help, explanations 
and answers! -----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 04:40:10 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Mixture Control Unit

Just curious... Over the center of the metering plate-there's that bar 
with the black plastic piece in the center (it goes right over the 
bolt in the meter plate)-what purpose does this piece serve? -----Dani 
B. #5003






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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 12:07:44 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: doors rubbing T panel

hi

in the workshop manual, i think it does say to bend the tabs (or 
clips it calls them).

i did it carefully, and panel lifts at the back but pad is holding 
it and seems reluctant to let go.

does the panel need to be glued down?

regards

Steve



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:

>> You are not supposed to bend the rear tabs. Remove the 3 screws
>> holding the plastic valence and rotate it as you remove it. You may
>> still have the plastic covers over the screws. Just pop the covers 

off

>> with a small screwdriver. There are 6 screws by the door opening 

under

>> the weatherstripping, 3 on each side. If the sticky pad (it isn't
>> sticky, just stuck) is holding you slide a puttyknife under it. Be
>> very careful, there are a lot of sharp edges on the S/S. The foam 

will

>> help, try it and you will see. With the Tee roof removed remove the
>> plate that is duct-taped down in the center of the roof. Clean the
>> whole area up and retape the plate back. The height in the rear of 

the

>> Tee roof is determined by the tabs and the rear valence. Be careful
>> with the plastic valence, they are hard to replace but easy to 

repair

>> (as long as you have all the pieces).
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>> 
>> 
>>






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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 14:55:16 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Seizure

When I bought my Delorean, it had a seized pump.  I used Harold's 
trick successfully.  Took it out of the car, connected it up 
backwards,  forwards, backwards, forwards, and after alternating a 
few times, whatever jammed in it was successfully dislodged.

Rick.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:

>> Can you get it to run backwards?
>> 
>> Harold McElraft - 3354
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_k...> wrote:
>
>>> > Hi Gang - I have received a report of a new pump that has siezed 
>
>> and no 
>
>>> > longer works.  The pump is a new Bosch unit, and was installed in 
>
>> a car 
>
>>> > that is currently undergoing a bunch of work to get it running 
>
>> after 
>
>>> > several years in storage.  The pump was installed after the tank 
>
>> was 
>
>>> > replaced and the lines were all cleaned out and blown through 

with 

>>> > compressed air.  The shop says that the pump was working fine, 

and 

>>> > suddenly stopped. 






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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 15:25:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Mixture Control Unit

In case of a backfire it keeps you from sending the sensor plate back
through the air cleaner.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Just curious... Over the center of the metering plate-there's that bar 
>> with the black plastic piece in the center (it goes right over the 
>> bolt in the meter plate)-what purpose does this piece serve? -----Dani 
>> B. #5003







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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 15:40:47 -0000
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: *Thank You * Pittsburgh Tech Session II

I would just like to say thanks to Dan & Judy for hosting a wonderful 
get together. It was great to have so much help and valuable 
resources in one place. As a new owner with some bugs to fix, it was 
amazing to accomplish so much work in such a short time.

I would also like to thank Rob Grady for helping out with fixing my 
cars idling problem. I know I have bothered this board with several 
posts on the topic, and after trying many fixes, it needed a new idle 
motor as my old motor was not seized but the electrical components 
were shot. Now I am idling around 900, which to me is much better 
than the 2100 from prior. Of course, a bit more tweaking is in the 
future to get it down to 800 or so.  :)  It was also great to have Rob 
handy to fix several other problems that popped up with my car, as he 
had many parts available with him, although he put me in debt for a 
little bit.  ;) 

Also thanks to Dave w/Project Vixen for helping me with an 11pm 
trailing arm bolt swap. I know it was getting late and I am very 
greatful that he stayed a bit longer to help out with what was a 
relatively quick and pain free job from what I am told from others. 

Altogether a great event and I am much looking forward to any get 
togethers with the new friends I made in the near future.

-Derek Grozio
#10084


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Daniel Plakosh <dplakosh2_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> All,
>>  
>> We'd like to thank everyone that attended the Pittsburgh Tech 

Session II  this past Saturday.  We had a great time and really 
enjoyed meeting all our old and new friends.  It's rare to find such 
a large group of people in one place that you could say you are happy 
to have in your home.  We hope everyone had a good time,  arrived 
home safely, and we also hope to see everyone again next year. 

>>  
>> Best regards,
>>  
>> Dan & Judy
>> 
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
>> http://mail.yahoo.com 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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