Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2786
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:9 Aug 2005 14:23:33 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. RE: Re: Workshop Manual Question
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. RE: Tail Light boards
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. Tachometer wire
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

5. Mode switch
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>

6. Door Lock Solenoids
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

7. RE: Re: My Delorean to be on VH1 and in the theaters!!
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

8. Re: Above and beyond the call...
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. car pings when accelerating
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

10. AC Drain leak on passenger carpet!
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

11. cool BTTF stuff for your PC
From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Workshop Manual Question
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

13. alternator noise
From: "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. RE: Door Lock Solenoids
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

15. RE: car pings when accelerating
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. Need advise
From: "gremishe" <gremishe_at_dml_sju.edu>

17. RE: Mode switch
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Re: Mode switch
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

19. RE: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Re: Door Lock Solenoids
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

21. Huey Lewis Concert in Central Jersey
From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: AC Drain leak on passenger carpet!
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

23. Re: Mode switch
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

24. RE: Tachometer wire
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. Re: car pings when accelerating
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 11:31:54 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Dani,

Again I think you need to KNOW about the CPR instead of guessing about it. I 
would suggest getting a CIS fuel pressure test set (John Hervey will loan 
you his.) and then you will KNOW if the CPR is good or bad. Of course you 
could just replace it with a new one, but having the CIS test set will also 
let you have a look at such things as the dead-head pressure of the fuel 
pump, control pressures, and how well the fuel system retains pressure when 
shut down. (Tests the accumulator and check valve in fuel pump.)

A dead short inside the CPR would cause the meltng you describe. Take an 
ohmmeter and check out the heater. It may be shorted out. If it is then just 
get a new CPR. Otherwise get a CIS fuel pressure test set and find out what 
is actually going on in your car in terms of primary and control pressure 
when the car is cold and as it warms up.

Not having the heater wires connected to the CPR would just mean it will 
take longer to warm up. What does that mean to your problem? Well it means 
your car will run RICH (ah ha!) until the motor is warm enough to deflect 
the bi-metal strip inside the CPR. Until that happens your control pressure 
will stay low and the car will run RICH, RICH, RICH!

In your case it is possible that the strip is jammed inside the CPR keeping 
the control pressure from ever rising.

So you may be onto at least part of your problem with the CPR. Ohm out the 
heater element and get a new CPR if it is bad. If that checks out okay 
(which it probably won't if the wires are burned) then cheheck it out 
furtehr with a CIS test set, or just write a check for a new CPR.

Before replacing the CPR make sure you see heater voltage on the 
(disconnected) connector when starting the car COLD. With the wires burned 
the way they are taht may not be working anymore.

Good luck.

-Joe Kuchan


>>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
>>Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 04:30:35 -0000
>>
>>Thank you to everyone who responded to my message and helping me with
>>my ongoing troubles! Driving the car home it was running so bad
>>[rich] that the only way I could make it idle and drive was to unplug
>>the frequency valve from the bulkhead-and the car behaves somewhat
>>normal now except still a misfire. Will unplugging this damage
>>anything? Now I'll slow down and list the things I've replaced and my
>>findings when scouting around the engine bay; maybe someone can
>>identify an additional problem from my observations.
>>

[moderator snip]




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 12:12:49 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Workshop Manual Question

Matt, We have complete manuals in stock with laminated wiring diagrams For
$99.95.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of conundrum1984
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 10:22 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Workshop Manual Question


I got my manual new from DMCH and I noticed there is no "S" section.
Was this left out intentionally?

Matt
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Heather" <yachtgirl_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> In section B on the Fuel Tank it says to refer to Section "S" for
>> other fuel tank related information.  My table of contents ends at R
>> (skipping Q like some others pointed out).  Is there an "S"
>> section???  If it does exist and someone has it, I could use a copy.
>>
>> Heather







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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 12:21:50 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Tail Light boards

Japheth,
Rob definitely has the best Glass Epoxy boards for new, But if you want to
consider rebuilding, I do rebuild boards without the screw, I use solder and
warranty them for what ever you want. Then spray them with a weatherproof
coating.$17.50 ea.
Bottom of page.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of secret_jedi_guy
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 10:14 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Tail Light boards


Hello all again!

I'm glad Rob Grady is on the list because I want him and everybody
else to read this.

If you don't have his improved tail light circuit boards then get
them.  I just replaced my passenger side board with one of his and
it is amazing.  My driver's side has a DMCH repro with the RShack
screw fix and the difference in light is astounding.  It is
literally about 10x brighter with Grady's board than with the repros
with the screws, and they fit perfectly into the holders and snap
right into place on the tail light panels themselves.  I still have
to wack the driver's side every once and a while to get the brakes
to light.

Just FYI to new owners and those who still have the old boards in
there cars.

Japheth
VIN: 1223








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 14:37:46 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Tachometer wire

Does anyone know the route the tachometer wire travels on its way to the 
binnicale?

I would like to temporarily disconnect it to see if it has any affect on the 
tach flicker / idle speed problem I am having.

Yesterday I found that the tach flicker seemed to go away when the hand brake 
was applied.  Anyone have any ideas about a possible interaction between the 
tach and the hand brake?  The only thing I could come up with is they both 
have wires going to the instrument cluster.

Thanks, (again)

Dē & 6530





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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 19:38:52 +0100
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Mode switch

I rebuilt the mode switch 6 months ago and have just found that it will constantly hiss at me 'quietly' when turned one turn to the right from the off position.

I have taken the mode switch apart and the diaphram looks fine and lubricated.  The clip has only one prong that holds the coiled spring in place but it worked before.

If I take the rubber boot off the back you have your continuous air running from one of the exit holes which when re-attached behaves as the following:-

switched off - silence
any setting - a quick swish sound and then quiet except for the first turn as per above.

Can anyone suggest anything to what the cause may be?

Thanks

Chris H.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 18:55:44 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Door Lock Solenoids

My car still have the original door lock electric components.  They 
are still connected to electrically lock or unlock both door when I 
only operate the drivers side lock.  I also have the dash light 
indicator that says "Lock Doors".  I hear that this arrangement can 
result with possibly locking me inside or out of my car.  Should I 
disconnect the circuit that controls this?  If I do, how do my locks 
work after this - one by one, and does the dash light not operate 
after this.

I had my door panel off once to work on a window, but could smell 
that very familiar "burnt" wire smell inside.  Not sure if it was 
from the previous owner replacing the window motor, or perhaps it is 
the door solenoid working too hard.  I am just curious as to what is 
recommended for the door lock situation.  I do like the electrical 
operation, but if it is safer for me to use manually, I will.

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944







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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 15:07:59 -0400
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: RE: Re: My Delorean to be on VH1 and in the theaters!!

A rep from VH1 actually told me that they had to make apologies to the
Delorean Estate about the bad publicity it generated.  HOWEVER...you have to
realize that the show is a bunch of actors from other TV Shows, etc.
reminiscing on the events of that time...it is NOT scripted by the studio.
Lets face it...we all know how much abuse we all take for the cocaine
history so you have to figure it will come up that way.

When I was in NYC, EVERYONE was asking about the car, but one guy (you
always get one) made it a point to tell me that "Deloreans were crap...they
don't ever work, and are just crap".  I tried to correct his image of the
car, but he was not interested in it.   I simply told him "yeah..I own one
and know hundreds of other owners, but YOU must be an authority on the
topic."   and walked away.

 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 4:08 PM
To: delorean_at_dml_abato.net; dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Cc: Kevin Abato; DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: My Delorean to be on VH1 and in the theaters!!

Sounds like a cool day Kevin! 

 I just hope that this version of "I Love the 80's" is a leap above their
last shows.  The "I Love 81" segment they did on the original "I Love the
80's" series had to be one of the most negative and incorrect depictions of
the Delorean story I have ever seen.  Especially when the wise ass host says
John Delorean liked a little too much of the coke-aina, or whatever slang
term he used for coke implying thats why the car failed and it was a joke.
Plus the other negative comments.  I would be surprised if this third
installment is a postive depiction, but hopefully it is.  I think I would
have requested a copy of the script and a nice paycheck before lending my
car LOL.  

Gary

-------------- Original message -------------- 

I just got home from a video shoot with VH1 in NYC today.  They are using my
Delorean for some promo spots for the upcoming "I love the 80s - 3D" (third
installment of the series)

I was on the shooting location from 10:00-6:30 today and it was a treat to
not only work with the crew, but to see how much interest my car generated
by passers by, the actors, and the crew!




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 12:08:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Above and beyond the call...

I second the words of Rich about Dan & Judy Plakosh. Thank you both!
It was also good to see Chris Bowmans car back together after the 3 year DMCJoe
mayhem.

A few photos of Rich's AC fun can be found here:
http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/gallery-PATech8-05.htm
and a link to Jeff Porters images at the bottom of the page.

Shannon Y
16506

------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 00:48:53 -0000
   From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Above and beyond the call...

Dan and Judy put on one incredible get-together and then post a thank-
you note to thank us for eating all their food, dirtying up their 
house, using all their tools and generally wearing them out!

Simply put, I don't think I've ever met two kinder, more generous 
people than Dan and Judy Plakosh.

Despite all my plans, my A/C overhaul hit a few snags (the grossest of 
understatements). Dan helped me with it for nearly 20 total hours in 
addition to tending all of the other guests. I'd also like to thank 
Chris Bowman for all his help in getting my dash back together while I 
was at the other end of the car, and to all the Ohio crew for the 
photos they took and for keeping the humor flowing.

Thanks very much everyone,

Rich A.
#5335

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 19:09:22 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: car pings when accelerating

I finally fixed an exhaust leak on my car (a loose manifold nut).  Now 
that the car is quieter, I can hear it ping when I gas it hard to 
accelerate.  I currently use 87 octane (or whatever the lowest regular 
gas is).  Would a higher octane eliminate the ping, or is there an 
adjustment I need?

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944






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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 21:06:31 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: AC Drain leak on passenger carpet!

I just had my AC charged last week and it seems to be nice and cold 
now, but I have a leak.  Water is dribbling from the drain onto my 
driveway OK, which makes me think that the drain is not clogged at 
all, but it is also leaking onto my passenger side carpet, which is 
now soaked!  Any suggestions for tracking down the leak, what to look 
for, etc.?  I see the small section of drain pipe from the black 
plastic box into the floor.  Are there fittings that can be tightened?

Thanks.  It's a hot week in New England and I need the AC!

Paul
Vin 10944







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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 21:28:51 -0000
From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: cool BTTF stuff for your PC

I don't know if all of you guys have seen these... there is a windows 
media player skin for BTTF, it's actually the back of a Delorean.
And there are Windows themes for all the 3 movies and one for the 
trilogy. I installed them all and it didn't install any spyware or 
anything. And they look so cool!!!!!!!!

Here are the links:
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowsmedia/mp10/getmore/skins.aspx
(scroll down to Back to the Future)


http://www.themedoctor.com/reviews/b/bttftril.shtml


enjoy!!!

Flavia - NJ







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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 21:38:00 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Workshop Manual Question

Matt, the factory manual has no Section "S". We're in the process of
updating the manual and creating this missing Section S. When it's
ready, we'll have it available for download.

Regards,

James

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>> I got my manual new from DMCH and I noticed there is no "S" section.  
>> Was this left out intentionally?
>> 
>> Matt
>> VIN: 2953
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Heather" <yachtgirl_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
>>> > In section B on the Fuel Tank it says to refer to Section "S" for 
>>> > other fuel tank related information.  My table of contents ends at R 
>>> > (skipping Q like some others pointed out).  Is there an "S" 
>>> > section???  If it does exist and someone has it, I could use a copy.
>>> > 
>>> > Heather








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 21:58:02 -0000
From: "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: alternator noise

this morning I finished installing and plugging in my alternator. 
starting the car all went as planed except for the strange noise of 
what would best be described as a whistling and squeling noise. now if 
I rub the engine for a few seconds the squeling noise will go away 
leaving me with just the whistling sound. on top of that I was smelling 
burning rubber when I investigated the rear of the car, This leads me 
to believe that obviously the alternator belt is one of the three 
choices...

1) mis-aligned (I did use 3 washers to help with the lower attachment 
to the new alternator with the rail-guide)
2) the belt is too tight
3) the belt is too loose.

Anyone whos delt with this or have any reccomendations I would be most 
greatful. 
Thanks DML!

~ Josh Tidwell
VIN: 04463






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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 18:35:42 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Door Lock Solenoids

Paul,
In the door lock module are two relays that normally don't get replaced. If
all the door mechanism is working properly, clean and not binding and the
adjustments are all ok, then replace the module relays, replace the circuit
breaker with a 15 amp and don't lock the car from the inside and I never had
any trouble with mine for 3 years until I sold 11004. If you need the module
repaired, it's $35.00.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of sweetp01569
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 12:56 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Door Lock Solenoids


My car still have the original door lock electric components.  They
are still connected to electrically lock or unlock both door when I
only operate the drivers side lock.  I also have the dash light
indicator that says "Lock Doors".  I hear that this arrangement can
result with possibly locking me inside or out of my car.  Should I
disconnect the circuit that controls this?  If I do, how do my locks
work after this - one by one, and does the dash light not operate
after this.

I had my door panel off once to work on a window, but could smell
that very familiar "burnt" wire smell inside.  Not sure if it was
from the previous owner replacing the window motor, or perhaps it is
the door solenoid working too hard.  I am just curious as to what is
recommended for the door lock situation.  I do like the electrical
operation, but if it is safer for me to use manually, I will.

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944







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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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Yahoo! Groups Links










________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 18:29:49 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: car pings when accelerating

Paul, If the engine isn't running hot, it's in time and spark advancing is
working properly and a tune up has been do then it normally shouldn't Ping
with 87 octane unless you got some bad gas.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com








-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of sweetp01569
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 1:09 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] car pings when accelerating


I finally fixed an exhaust leak on my car (a loose manifold nut).  Now
that the car is quieter, I can hear it ping when I gas it hard to
accelerate.  I currently use 87 octane (or whatever the lowest regular
gas is).  Would a higher octane eliminate the ping, or is there an
adjustment I need?

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links










________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 23:51:47 -0000
From: "gremishe" <gremishe_at_dml_sju.edu>
Subject: Need advise

Hi,

I am planning to do few updates and need your advice before buying the
parts.

1. 
Replacing Coolant Bottle.
There are few choices here: Houston sells metal bottle and both PJ
Grady and Specialauto.com sell Stainless. The price is almost the same
for all of them. Which one is better? Which looks better?

2.
Replacing Fuel Gauge Sending Unit.
Houston sells one for about $99 and TankZilla cost $149.99. 
This is 50% price difference. Is TankZilla that much better? Is it
worth it?

3.
I need to replace a rubber/foam strips that run between Sunshade
Louvre and the body on each side. I search the part catalog and I
think I found it. Parts #108720 and #108721 "SUPPORT BUFFER". Can
someone confirm this?

Thank you for your help,
Gleb
3406









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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 19:02:57 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Mode switch

Chris, Your right, if everything is right it shouldn't hiss, it may be as
noted the connections on the back. As far as the broken tab, I have a fix
for that at no charge. I will be showing it on the site tomorrow.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Chris Hawes
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 12:39 PM
To: doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com; dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Mode switch


I rebuilt the mode switch 6 months ago and have just found that it will
constantly hiss at me 'quietly' when turned one turn to the right from the
off position.

I have taken the mode switch apart and the diaphram looks fine and
lubricated.  The clip has only one prong that holds the coiled spring in
place but it worked before.

If I take the rubber boot off the back you have your continuous air running
from one of the exit holes which when re-attached behaves as the following:-

switched off - silence
any setting - a quick swish sound and then quiet except for the first turn
as per above.

Can anyone suggest anything to what the cause may be?

Thanks

Chris H.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 23:54:07 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Mode switch

Chris - You might want to have a look at the vacuum actuator that 
this position supplies vacuum to for its function.  Perhaps the 
vacuum line to the actuator is cracked, or the actuator has a torn 
diaphram?  Often, when the diaphram on the mode switch goes bad, you 
will get a vacuum leak at several positions.  However, since your 
switch functions flawlessly except for the one position, I am 
thinking that the line or actuator is at fault.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>> I rebuilt the mode switch 6 months ago and have just found that it 

will constantly hiss at me 'quietly' when turned one turn to the 
right from the off position.

>> 
>> I have taken the mode switch apart and the diaphram looks fine and 

lubricated.  The clip has only one prong that holds the coiled spring 
in place but it worked before.

>> 
>> If I take the rubber boot off the back you have your continuous air 

running from one of the exit holes which when re-attached behaves as 
the following:-

>> 
>> switched off - silence
>> any setting - a quick swish sound and then quiet except for the 

first turn as per above.







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 19:17:43 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Dani,
What Joe said is correct. If you want to see inside the CPR/ Warm up
regulator go to the link below or go to my home page and go into Bosch Warm
up regulators on the left menu bar and you can see the inside.
As Joe said, measure the resistance on the resistor on the inside with an
ohm meter across the 2 terminals and should read about 36 ohms. If you have
that then you know the resistor is good but the setting may have changed
causing it to continue to run rich. The higher the resistance say compared
to a 10 ohm means it will take longer for it to change from a WUR to a CPR
providing everything else is working alright in it.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/warm-up-regulators.html


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Joseph Kuchan
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 10:32 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor
positioning)


Dani,

Again I think you need to KNOW about the CPR instead of guessing about it. I
would suggest getting a CIS fuel pressure test set (John Hervey will loan
you his.) and then you will KNOW if the CPR is good or bad. Of course you
could just replace it with a new one, but having the CIS test set will also
let you have a look at such things as the dead-head pressure of the fuel
pump, control pressures, and how well the fuel system retains pressure when
shut down. (Tests the accumulator and check valve in fuel pump.)

[moderator snip]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 17:06:54 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door Lock Solenoids

Paul,

If your locks are currently working, the best (also happens to be the
cheapest!) way to ensure they will continue working and not lock you
in is to replace the solenoids with linear actuators. The entire kit
is only $100 from DPNW.

http://delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K2500DP&Category_Code=9401

The problem with the door locks is twofold; the lock controller is
under engineered, and the lock solenoids draw too much current.
Replacing the solenoids significantly reduces the current draw on the
controller. Technically, you could also replace the controller if you
wanted to be 100% sure of no future problems. Or, you can rebuild it
(cheap), pay someone to rebuild it (still cheap, I think John Hervey
does this), or upgrade to a Lockzilla (expensive and unnecessary in my
humble opinion).

-Ryan

On 8/8/05, sweetp01569 <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com> wrote:

>> My car still have the original door lock electric components.  They
>> are still connected to electrically lock or unlock both door when I
>> only operate the drivers side lock.  I also have the dash light
>> indicator that says "Lock Doors".  I hear that this arrangement can
>> result with possibly locking me inside or out of my car.  Should I
>> disconnect the circuit that controls this?  If I do, how do my locks
>> work after this - one by one, and does the dash light not operate
>> after this.
>> 
>> I had my door panel off once to work on a window, but could smell
>> that very familiar "burnt" wire smell inside.  Not sure if it was
>> from the previous owner replacing the window motor, or perhaps it is
>> the door solenoid working too hard.  I am just curious as to what is
>> recommended for the door lock situation.  I do like the electrical
>> operation, but if it is safer for me to use manually, I will.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul
>> Vin 10944
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 04:36:00 -0000
From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Huey Lewis Concert in Central Jersey

http://www.statetheaternj.org/show.cfm?eventid=1061&venue=State

Hey you guys that have that cool stainless steel car, why don't you 
guys show up at this concert??? I've been planning on going, but that 
would be a good extra motivation if it was a DeLorean-BTTF type event. 

Tuesday, August 16 in New Brunswick, NJ

The tickets are pretty reasonable and I bet the band and people 
attending the show would appreciate. 

Flavia- NJ






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 01:46:59 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: AC Drain leak on passenger carpet!

The drain is stopped up. Not completely it seems, but virtually 
everyone who uses the D AC has had this problem. Put your shop vac to 
the drain hose. That will usually get whatever is clogging it.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:

>> I just had my AC charged last week and it seems to be nice and cold 
>> now, but I have a leak.  Water is dribbling from the drain onto my 
>> driveway OK, which makes me think that the drain is not clogged at 
>> all, but it is also leaking onto my passenger side carpet, which is 
>> now soaked!  Any suggestions for tracking down the leak, what to 

look 

>> for, etc.?  I see the small section of drain pipe from the black 
>> plastic box into the floor.  Are there fittings that can be 

tightened?

>> 
>> Thanks.  It's a hot week in New England and I need the AC!
>> 
>> Paul
>> Vin 10944








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 01:34:32 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Mode switch

Probable causes:
rubber manifold split
hose disconnected
diaphragm not in correct position
diaphragm is damaged
mode housing cracked
plastic hose cracked
a vacuum motor is leaking and it just sounds like it is the switch

Be methodical as you test. Have you checked the switch on the bench?

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>> I rebuilt the mode switch 6 months ago and have just found that it 

will constantly hiss at me 'quietly' when turned one turn to the 
right from the off position.

>> 
>> I have taken the mode switch apart and the diaphram looks fine and 

lubricated.  The clip has only one prong that holds the coiled 
spring in place but it worked before.

>> 
>> If I take the rubber boot off the back you have your continuous 

air running from one of the exit holes which when re-attached 
behaves as the following:-

>> 
>> switched off - silence
>> any setting - a quick swish sound and then quiet except for the 

first turn as per above.

>> 
>> Can anyone suggest anything to what the cause may be?
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Chris H.
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 00:00:51 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Tachometer wire

Dave, You like technical stuff. Here is information on movement of the
meters.
I simply feel it's held in place by the magnetic field and if you turn the
key on and off again the field collapses and the needle goes back to 0.
John Hervey
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vkalo_at_dml_bak.rr.comol_1/chpt_8/1.html

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 12:38 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Tachometer wire


Does anyone know the route the tachometer wire travels on its way to the
binnicale?

I would like to temporarily disconnect it to see if it has any affect on the
tach flicker / idle speed problem I am having.

Yesterday I found that the tach flicker seemed to go away when the hand
brake
was applied.  Anyone have any ideas about a possible interaction between the
tach and the hand brake?  The only thing I could come up with is they both
have wires going to the instrument cluster.

Thanks, (again)

D2 & 6530





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 01:41:53 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: car pings when accelerating

Use the higher octane. Your ignition advance spring is probably out of 
spec (assuming your timing is correct)- easy to up the octane. You 
don't want to hear that ping too much in the D engine.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:

>> I finally fixed an exhaust leak on my car (a loose manifold nut).  

Now 

>> that the car is quieter, I can hear it ping when I gas it hard to 
>> accelerate.  I currently use 87 octane (or whatever the lowest 

regular 

>> gas is).  Would a higher octane eliminate the ping, or is there an 
>> adjustment I need?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul
>> Vin 10944









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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