Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2787
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:9 Aug 2005 19:22:59 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: car pings when accelerating
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Tachometer wire
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

3. Re: AC Drain leak on passenger carpet!
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

4. Re: car pings when accelerating
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

5. Santa Monica, Aug 26...BTTF showing.
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>

6. Re: alternator noise
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

7. Re: alternator noise
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: car pings when accelerating
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

9. Re: alternator noise
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>

10. Re: Re: car pings when accelerating
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

11. Re: Need advise
From: Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 08:01:20 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: car pings when accelerating

Try a higher octane and see what happens. A motor's octane requirements 
actually increase over time. That may be all you need to do.

-Joe Kuchan


>>From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] car pings when accelerating
>>Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 19:09:22 -0000
>>
>>I finally fixed an exhaust leak on my car (a loose manifold nut).  Now
>>that the car is quieter, I can hear it ping when I gas it hard to
>>accelerate.  I currently use 87 octane (or whatever the lowest regular
>>gas is).  Would a higher octane eliminate the ping, or is there an
>>adjustment I need?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Paul
>>Vin 10944
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 09:14:48 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Tachometer wire

Dave,

I have just taken apart my hand brake to reconnect the lines to the handle 
and noticed that there is a ground wire bolted to the hand brake assembly. 
Maybe you have a weak connection at that ground and when you move the handle 
you are making a better connection.  Seems like a long-shot, but you never 
know.  You'll have to take off the carpet covering  over the hand brake to 
see the wire I'm talking about.  Besides that, the only other electrical 
component I can think of around that area is the switch for the hand brake 
warning light, you may want to see what affect that has on your tach, since 
that light is also in the dash that seems like a better possibility.

Good Luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 2:37 PM
Subject: [DML] Tachometer wire



>> Does anyone know the route the tachometer wire travels on its way to the
>> binnicale?
>>
>> I would like to temporarily disconnect it to see if it has any affect on 
>> the
>> tach flicker / idle speed problem I am having.
>>
>> Yesterday I found that the tach flicker seemed to go away when the hand 
>> brake
>> was applied.  Anyone have any ideas about a possible interaction between 
>> the
>> tach and the hand brake?  The only thing I could come up with is they both
>> have wires going to the instrument cluster.
>>
>> Thanks, (again)
>>
>> Dē & 6530
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 







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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 10:19:49 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: AC Drain leak on passenger carpet!

Your problem is most likely not a lose connection but debris 
partially blocking the drain tube.  Water is backing up and running 
from the top down.  You would need to remove and clean or replace 
the drain tube.  Replace is probably better, its a cheap part and 
you don't want to keep messing around with this job.  


Sandor



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
wrote:

>> I just had my AC charged last week and it seems to be nice and 

cold 

>> now, but I have a leak.  Water is dribbling from the drain onto my 
>> driveway OK, which makes me think that the drain is not clogged at 
>> all, but it is also leaking onto my passenger side carpet, which 

is 

>> now soaked!  Any suggestions for tracking down the leak, what to 

look 

>> for, etc.?  I see the small section of drain pipe from the black 
>> plastic box into the floor.  Are there fittings that can be 

tightened?

>> 
>> Thanks.  It's a hot week in New England and I need the AC!
>> 
>> Paul
>> Vin 10944







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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 13:23:49 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: car pings when accelerating

Check your timing (with a timing light) to eliminate that, but my 
guess is that is not the issue. If all you did to fix the loose nut 
was to tighten or replace the nut, my bet would be that you still 
have an exhaust leak, just a smaller one. This will sound amazingly 
like pinging under acceleration. 

If the exhaust has been leaking at all it tends to burn away the 
gasket and burn a path into the manifold flange. You can tighten it 
all you like and it's still going to leak. The correct repair is to 
replace the gaskets AND refinish the manifold flanges. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:

>> I finally fixed an exhaust leak on my car (a loose manifold nut).  

Now 

>> that the car is quieter, I can hear it ping when I gas it hard to 
>> accelerate.  I currently use 87 octane (or whatever the lowest 

regular 

>> gas is).  Would a higher octane eliminate the ping, or is there an 
>> adjustment I need?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul
>> Vin 10944









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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 07:11:29 -0700
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Santa Monica, Aug 26...BTTF showing.

Hi Richard and list.

I'm in WLA and have put a note on my calendar for '26.  Any other takers?  Richard, my email is in signature...we can discuss plans.  I'll be in Camarillo sometime the next couple of days.

Al
Al Roberts
twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net
#4649/#16049

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 13:46:00 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: alternator noise

Hi Josh

Assuming you have a direct replacement alternator from one of the D 
vendors then i would suggest that your alternator belt is slipping 
causing the squeeling noise, is this a new one of the correct size?, 
i know Special T have a shorter belt for his own manufactured alts. 
This also accounts for the burning rubber smell as the main pulley 
rubs on /past the belt when it slips. You may now find that your belt 
is 'glazed' ,either way your belt belt needs tightening up.But not so 
tight that you cant press down on it, using moderate pressure with 
your thumb midway on the belt between the water pump and alternator 
pulleys you should get some downward deflection i personally would 
suggest of no more 15mm, if you cant press it down at all then your 
belt is far too tight. This would cause alternator bearings to wear. 
Remove the belt and inspect its teeth for 'shinyness' and make sure 
all pullys are clean and oil and grease free. this will also cause it 
to slip.

Regards

Mike
#2001

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> this morning I finished installing and plugging in my alternator. 
>> starting the car all went as planed except for the strange noise of 
>> what would best be described as a whistling and squeling noise. now 

if 

>> I rub the engine for a few seconds the squeling noise will go away 
>> leaving me with just the whistling sound. on top of that I was 

smelling 

>> burning rubber when I investigated the rear of the car, This leads 

me 

>> to believe that obviously the alternator belt is one of the three 
>> choices...
>> 
>> 1) mis-aligned (I did use 3 washers to help with the lower 

attachment 

>> to the new alternator with the rail-guide)
>> 2) the belt is too tight
>> 3) the belt is too loose.
>> 
>> Anyone whos delt with this or have any reccomendations I would be 

most 

>> greatful. 
>> Thanks DML!
>> 
>> ~ Josh Tidwell
>> VIN: 04463








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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 13:41:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: alternator noise

I vote for #1 and #3. Get a string or a straightedge and check for
alignment. To see if it is loose WITH THE MOTOR OFF try turning the
alternator pulley. If you can turn it by hand, and the belt slips,
tighten it up a little. Another "trick" is (while the motor is running
so be careful) while you hear it squeaking, spray some water on the
belt. If the noise goes away you have confirmed the belt that is
noisy. An alternator that is outputting will give off a high pitched
whine. Once the battery is fully charged the whine should diminish.
Squeaks can also come from the idler bearings for the A/C. If they are
origional they should be replaced. The wrong belt can also squeak.
Look at the bottom of the "vee" belt. If it is shiny it is riding on
the bottom, it is not supposed to, it is only supposed to touch the
pulley on the sides of the vee.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> this morning I finished installing and plugging in my alternator. 
>> starting the car all went as planed except for the strange noise of 
>> what would best be described as a whistling and squeling noise. now if 
>> I rub the engine for a few seconds the squeling noise will go away 
>> leaving me with just the whistling sound. on top of that I was smelling 
>> burning rubber when I investigated the rear of the car, This leads me 
>> to believe that obviously the alternator belt is one of the three 
>>








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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 14:21:40 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: car pings when accelerating

A higher octane fuel may indeed eliminate the ping, but that's 
treating the symptom and not the cause.

Double check your timing to make sure it's not set more than 15 
degrees. A need for a general tune up also can cause this. Hopefully 
the experts will chime in with more in-depth info.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:

>> I finally fixed an exhaust leak on my car (a loose manifold nut).  

Now 

>> that the car is quieter, I can hear it ping when I gas it hard to 
>> accelerate.  I currently use 87 octane (or whatever the lowest 

regular 

>> gas is).  Would a higher octane eliminate the ping, or is there an 
>> adjustment I need?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul
>> Vin 10944







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 20:38:45 -0400
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>
Subject: Re: alternator noise

Test your battery, if it is bad there will be more load on the alternator
and the harder it will be to turn.

- Mike
#17084
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 5:58 PM
Subject: [DML] alternator noise



>> this morning I finished installing and plugging in my alternator.
>> starting the car all went as planed except for the strange noise of
>> what would best be described as a whistling and squeling noise. now if
>> I rub the engine for a few seconds the squeling noise will go away
>> leaving me with just the whistling sound. on top of that I was smelling
>> burning rubber when I investigated the rear of the car, This leads me
>> to believe that obviously the alternator belt is one of the three
>> choices...
>>
>> 1) mis-aligned (I did use 3 washers to help with the lower attachment
>> to the new alternator with the rail-guide)
>> 2) the belt is too tight
>> 3) the belt is too loose.
>>
>> Anyone whos delt with this or have any reccomendations I would be most
>> greatful.
>> Thanks DML!
>>
>> ~ Josh Tidwell
>> VIN: 04463
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

www.dmcnews.com

>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>






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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 09:34:43 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: car pings when accelerating

I'm with Dave on this. Unboosted PRV's don't detonate very often. 
Exhaust leaks are very common.
We got the stuff: gaskets and hardware for a complete repair or just 
half of one.
K112258-Manifold Exhaust Kit, One side $49.99
K112259 Manifold Exhaust Kit, Both sides $99.99
Warren at DMC


Dave Swingle wrote:

>> Check your timing (with a timing light) to eliminate that, but my 
>> guess is that is not the issue. If all you did to fix the loose nut 
>> was to tighten or replace the nut, my bet would be that you still 
>> have an exhaust leak, just a smaller one. This will sound amazingly 
>> like pinging under acceleration. 
>> 
>> If the exhaust has been leaking at all it tends to burn away the 
>> gasket and burn a path into the manifold flange. You can tighten it 
>> all you like and it's still going to leak. The correct repair is to 
>> replace the gaskets AND refinish the manifold flanges. 
>> 
>> Dave Swingle
>> 

[moderator snip]




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 07:41:59 -0700
From: Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Need advise

You might find this a little interesting:  During one of our club
events, somone brought a laser thermometer and measured the temp on my
aluminum bottle vs. the stainless.  The aluminum was about 20 degrees
cooler and I had arrived about the same time as the other person with
the stainless bottle.

The DMCH fuel sender works, but in my opinion, isn't EXACTLY correct. 
 But at least it's better than what I had before.

Johnny
5518

On 8/8/05, gremishe <gremishe_at_dml_sju.edu> wrote:

>> Hi,
>> 
>> I am planning to do few updates and need your advice before buying the
>> parts.
>> 
>> 1. 
>> Replacing Coolant Bottle.
>> There are few choices here: Houston sells metal bottle and both PJ
>> Grady and Specialauto.com sell Stainless. The price is almost the same
>> for all of them. Which one is better? Which looks better?
>> 
>> 2.
>> Replacing Fuel Gauge Sending Unit.
>> Houston sells one for about $99 and TankZilla cost $149.99. 
>> This is 50% price difference. Is TankZilla that much better? Is it
>> worth it?
>> 
>> 3.
>> I need to replace a rubber/foam strips that run between Sunshade
>> Louvre and the body on each side. I search the part catalog and I
>> think I found it. Parts #108720 and #108721 "SUPPORT BUFFER". Can
>> someone confirm this?
>> 
>> Thank you for your help,
>> Gleb
>> 3406






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