Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2789
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:10 Aug 2005 19:50:30 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: TankZilla & DMCH Sender
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. RE: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. Re: Re: lighted keys
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

4. RE: Re: Need advise
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. Re: Torsion Bar "Relief"...........
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. Fuel Senders
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Unsynchronized door locks
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

8. Re: Torsion Bar "Relief"...........
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

9. Re: Need advise
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. RE: AC Drain leak on passenger carpet!
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Re: Musty odor
From: MICHAEL W TOWNSLEY <michaeltownsley_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

12. RE: engine and transmission dimensions
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Delorean Insurance
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

14. Re: AC Drain leak on passenger carpet!
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

15. Re: car pings when accelerating
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

16. RE: Delorean Insurance
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

17. Re: Torque Numbers
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: Torsion Bar "Relief"...........
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Re: Musty odor
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>

20. Re: engine and transmission dimensions
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

21. Magical time for Delorean Owner
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

22. Simplified replacement of high-pressure AC hose
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

23. Re: Re: car pings when accelerating
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>

24. Re: Unsynchronized door locks
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamergeinc.com>

25. Re: Huey Lewis Concert in Central Jersey
From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 22:06:13 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: TankZilla & DMCH Sender

Group,
If your going to be replacing your fuel sending unit any time soon and want
to try a new unit. I will have in about a month the old fashion ( If you
want to call it that ) float sending type unit with the new thick-film
resistor technology. The price so far looks to be at about $69.95 ea. So
hold on and see what I will have.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of James Espey
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 6:44 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] TankZilla & DMCH Sender


If it leaks, then you need either a new seal (email me offline) or
it's not installed correctly. There should be no leaks.

The TankZilla products uses a completely different sending unit (off a
Saab, IIRC) and the "black box" adjusts the signal from the sender to
work with the gauge in the dash. PJ Grady *may* have sold some of our
senders as they have been unable to get the Zilla products, but I'd
have to check to be sure.

James

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mr.pants_at_dml_c..." <mr.pants_at_dml_c...> wrote:
(SNIP)

>> Regarding the fuel sender, I have the DMCH one and it is FAR better

than

>> the stock, but it still leaks a teeny bit when my tank is filled up to
>> the max, even with the new, supplied seal.  Still, I'm pretty happy

with

>> it and the price was fair.  I couldn't spend the extra cost for the
>> 'Zilla, but I hear it's good too, and uses the DMCH sender unit

anyhow.

>> Is this correct?  I don't wanna spread misinformation...
>>
>> - ed
>> 1982 DMC-12 (11594)







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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 22:14:37 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Dani, There are no new parts available for the CPR's and Bosch won't sell
them even if there was.  The rebuilder has to take resistors out of other
units to replace them, so If it was sent in for a core, I'm not for sure
what they would do. Let me know if I can help.
John Hervey




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of stainlessilusion
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 10:12 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)


I've already seen inside the CPR, thats why I was describing the
wires inside all burned and shorted apart. There's no reason to test
resistances with wires burned apart. I could solder and fix the CPR
that way, but I need to take this car on a 3405 mile drive [only if
it starts running good real soon!], I'd rather know the part is new.
-----Dani B.#5003



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> Dani,
>> What Joe said is correct. If you want to see inside the CPR/ Warm up
>> regulator go to the link below or go to my home page and go into

Bosch Warm

>> up regulators on the left menu bar and you can see the inside.
>> As Joe said, measure the resistance on the resistor on the inside

with an

>> ohm meter across the 2 terminals and should read about 36 ohms. If

you have






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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 23:26:25 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: lighted keys

 
Corey.. Many thanks.  As I looked at the contact and bulb it almost  looks 
like the bulb screws into a small hole that is part of the contact, I  guess it 
is soldered.
 
Roy
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/9/2005 10:40:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:

I just  replaced the battery in my lighted key last week.  The bulb in my key 
is  soldered 
to the contact.
Corey
2423

--- In  dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "lordshill1" <lordshill_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>>  Back in March there was a discussion about the orginal keys with the 
>>  lights in them.  I recently took apart an orginal key with all the  
>> appropriate inards.  I am confused on the bulb and the  contact.  Is the 
>> bulb part screwed into the contact or are they  one piece?  Thanks to 
>> anyone who can help.
>> 
>>  Roy  #0893







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 22:39:45 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Need advise

Ed,
While aluminum is the best at deflecting the heat and not holding it, the SS
coolant bottle is so small in size in comparison to the cooling system it's
to me almost a mute point that it's a little hotter.
We have been manufacturing the SS coolant bottles now for about a year since
our normal supplier ran out or wasn't able to supply them.
We have also thought about polished or grained aluminum but everyone has
wanted Stainless Steel for the looks and the durability and we drive a SS
car. What else would go better.
If you use aluminum then it would have to be painted or anodized as to not
show the oxidation or the discoloration that will happen over a short period
of time and if hit or bumped and scared will go deeper in the metal since
it's softer. As you know with the SS you just use the blending pad to clean
it up.
All of our water pump pulleys are machined and clear anodized to retain the
SS look without going to stainless. Metal cost just keep going up.
If price is an issue we can surly address that, but due to the stages of
laser cutting, fuse welding and finishing, there is a lot of work in one
bottle. Three people and/or  companies are involved. If you have any
question or concerns, please let me know. We have plenty in stock.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/Stainless%20Steel%20Products.html


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 9:04 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Need advise


That is interesting.  Did anyone measure the temp on the standard,
plastic bottle?  I'd guess that would be the coolest of all.  (Although,
the metal ones "look" the coolest!)  I know the metal tanks look nice,
but if I can't see spending that much on a cosmetic upgrade (admittedly,
a nice one) that detracts from coolant performance to boot, I'm now
wondering if I should replace my soon-to-fail plastic tank with another
stock one.  Anybody have any input on this?  I was actually considering
a stainless one.  Who makes the aluminum one - I thought they were all
stainless from DMC, PJG & Special-T...

Regarding the fuel sender, I have the DMCH one and it is FAR better than
the stock, but it still leaks a teeny bit when my tank is filled up to
the max, even with the new, supplied seal.  Still, I'm pretty happy with
it and the price was fair.  I couldn't spend the extra cost for the
'Zilla, but I hear it's good too, and uses the DMCH sender unit anyhow.
Is this correct?  I don't wanna spread misinformation...

- ed
1982 DMC-12 (11594)


[moderator snip]





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 20:29:58 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Torsion Bar "Relief"...........

I do that and so did the previous owner. He recommended it because it 
should increase the life of the struts too. After 2 years of doing this, no 
problems so far. However, I do keep the car in a garage and there are no 
bugs and small animals around here that can use the D as their home.

As for the door lights, I have an impulse sequencing relay installed on 
that circuit. This basically allows me to turn the lights on and off with 
my keyless entry remote. Never cared for the master battery disconnect method.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 10:37 PM 8/9/2005 +0000, you wrote:

>>Gentlemen, forgive me, but another owner told me that he routinely
>>leaves his door open (he has a master battery disconnect switch) to
>>relieve the stress in the torsion bars.  He believes that this will
>>prolong their life (and "springiness").
>>Does anyone else do this?  Do you think that there is any physical
>>basis to support this?
>>Thanks,
>>NM






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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 21:20:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Senders

This is incorrect.  

The DMCH unit uses a float that activates
micro-switches attached to a fixed resistor network. 
IIRC, there are 5 or 6 switches.  The result is your
fuel gage becomes a indicator with only 6 positions.

TankZilla uses a similar design as the stock sender,
where there is a variable resistor that will change
resistance with the smallest change in fluid level.  
The electronics included with TankZilla is used to
convert the behavior of the new tank sender to what
the gage in the dashboard expects to see.  The range
(and direction) of the replacement sender is not the
same as the stock one.  The sender alone is very
expensive.

Either unit will tell you when you need to stop for
gas..  If I had my choice, I would have tried to
rebuild my broken one.



--- "mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net" <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>
wrote:
<SNIP>

>> 'Zilla, but I hear it's good too, and uses the DMCH
>> sender unit anyhow.  
>> Is this correct?  I don't wanna spread
>> misinformation...

<SNIP>


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 04:15:36 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Unsynchronized door locks

Rich - I would start by carefully and completely marching through 
the door lock adjustment procedure detailed in the shop manual 
(P:02:11).  See also service bulletin ST-10-8.81 in the "Tech Files" 
section.  It can be rather tedious, but it is the best place to get 
back to factory lock settings.  This procedure focuses on getting 
the door lock wiper switches (bell cranks) at the correct positions 
so that they offer proper feedback information to the door lock 
module.  Where the manual talks about moving the solenoids back and 
forth to position the bell cranks (if necessary), you can shift the 
position by moving the linkage rod on the actuator where it connects 
to the forward lock rod.  A couple of things to look for - the 
switches can get loose at the pivot point.  The bell crank rotates 
around on a rivet.  I had to carefully "redrive" my rivets to 
tighten the switches up so that they rotated smoothly and 
consistently.  The next thing to look for is seriously bent lock 
linkage rods.  If you have an excessive bend, the rod will flex too 
much, and not move the mechanism enough.  Make sure that you are 
getting very good and consistent electrical contact on the bell 
crank wiper switches.  Chris Almy wrote a great piece on 
troubleshooting the bell crank switch positions a while back on the 
DML.  I don't have the message number, but it was a very nice write-
up.  Let us know if you have any further questions on this.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com    


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> All-
>> 
>> I installed Toby's door actuators some time ago. Even before that 
>> however, my locks never worked correctly. I suspect the locks were 
>> engaged with the doors open, bending the locking rods. If you 

unlock the driver's side from inside, the passenger side never moves 
enough to unlock. The key locks are the same way. Not to mention if 
you manipulate the key and/or the inner switches you can generate 
all sorts of patterns regarding which side locks/doesn't lock or 
unlock. 

>> I've upgraded my lock module and the acutators work correctly. 

That much I've checked.

>> 
>> What parts would I need to replace to get them back to the point 

where they'll be synchronized? Or perhaps I'm just not doing it 
right and someone can suggest a proceedure that will get things 
working together?

>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Rich A.
>> #5335







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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 04:34:46 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Torsion Bar "Relief"...........

NM - From an engineering perspective, the torsion bars should be 
stressed at a level below the elastic limit for the material.  What 
this means in lay terms is that the material should never yield and 
become permanently set in a deformed or changed state.  From a real 
world perspective, there is a phenomenon called "plastic creep" where 
the material slowly yields and creeps under high sustained stresses.  
These torsion bars are highly stressed with the doors closed, and it 
is possible for the material to undergo this creep over a long period 
of time.  I pulled together all of the necessary equations in order to 
calculate the stress levels when the doors are closed, but I have 
never taken the time to crank through the calculations.  Perhaps I 
will do that, see just how close we are to the elastic limit.  If it 
is close enough to the limit, then creep would be possible.  Somebody 
poke me if you don't hear back from me in a few days on this topic.  
Thanks.

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ctdmc83" <nmastrocinque_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> Gentlemen, forgive me, but another owner told me that he routinely 
>> leaves his door open (he has a master battery disconnect switch) to 
>> relieve the stress in the torsion bars.  He believes that this will 
>> prolong their life (and "springiness").
>> Does anyone else do this?  Do you think that there is any physical 
>> basis to support this?
>> Thanks,
>> NM








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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 05:21:01 -0000
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Need advise

My 2 cents:

The stainless steel tank, which had a higher temperature reading, was
the better tank in your situation.  Because more heat was conducted
away from the coolant, therefore the higher temperature reading on the
stainless steel tank.

Another variable that should be considered is the radiator efficiency.
 If radiators from both vehicles perform identically and the coolant
flow rate and chemistry are the same, then the stainless steel tank
definitely is a better thermal conductor.  Without the other pieces of
data, it's difficult to determine which one is better.

Maybe Toby can comment on this.


Steve Kuan
VIN#4421



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_g...>
wrote:

>> You might find this a little interesting:  During one of our club
>> events, somone brought a laser thermometer and measured the temp on

my

>> aluminum bottle vs. the stainless.  The aluminum was about 20

degrees

>> cooler and I had arrived about the same time as the other person

with

>> the stainless bottle.
>> 
>> The DMCH fuel sender works, but in my opinion, isn't EXACTLY

correct. 

>>  But at least it's better than what I had before.
>> 
>> Johnny
>> 5518
>> 
>> On 8/8/05, gremishe <gremishe_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>
>>> > Hi,
>>> > 
>>> > I am planning to do few updates and need your advice before

buying the

>>> > parts.
>>> > 
>>> > 1. 
>>> > Replacing Coolant Bottle.
>>> > There are few choices here: Houston sells metal bottle and both PJ
>>> > Grady and Specialauto.com sell Stainless. The price is almost the

same

>>> > for all of them. Which one is better? Which looks better?
>>> > 
>>> > 2.
>>> > Replacing Fuel Gauge Sending Unit.
>>> > Houston sells one for about $99 and TankZilla cost $149.99. 
>>> > This is 50% price difference. Is TankZilla that much better? Is it
>>> > worth it?
>>> > 
>>> > 3.
>>> > I need to replace a rubber/foam strips that run between Sunshade
>>> > Louvre and the body on each side. I search the part catalog and I
>>> > think I found it. Parts #108720 and #108721 "SUPPORT BUFFER". Can
>>> > someone confirm this?
>>> > 
>>> > Thank you for your help,
>>> > Gleb
>>> > 3406









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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 04:10:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: AC Drain leak on passenger carpet!

I had a mud wasp nest in the pipe causing this
problem.  Very frustrating.  The hose looked to ridgid
to simply remove and put back on.

I put the car on a lift and used moderate pressure
water and a plumbers snake to clean the hose out. 
Once I broke through the whole thing drained.

Pumped some water up it a few times to clean it out
and it works perfect ever since.


Jordan
11613


--- Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net> wrote:


>> I had this same problem two weeks ago.  The molded
>> rubber tube from the
>> "black plastic box" that goes through the floor and
>> was folded on upon
>> itself due to improper installation.  End result was
>> that 1/2 the water was
>> draining out properly, and the other half was
>> draining into my car, and
>> creating a lake in my passenger side.   :) 
>> 
>> I managed to wrestle the tube back into place around
>> the fitting, and now
>> all is fine. 
>> 
>> Kevin Abato
>> Vin #16680
>> 

[moderator snip]




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 04:13:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: MICHAEL W TOWNSLEY <michaeltownsley_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Musty odor

Where can you purchase Ozone and what quanity is needed to thorougly treat a car? 

byrondelorean <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com> wrote:Ozone works! I removed my seats, ozoned them seperately with the 
floor carpet. Then installed the seats and did the whole car. 
Absolutely remarkable. Believe me when I say that the car had been 
sitting in a fairly nice barn with concrete floors since 1985 doors 
shut until late last year. Mold spores were visable all along the 
center consoles and seats. Everything cleaned up from the surface. 
The mold stink still prevailed even though I cleaned everything 
until I became virtually insane, I remember Rich W (King Kong D-Rex)
told me about ozone. I had reservations regarding ozone, some sites 
that sell alternate products say it may may crack hard vinyls. I had 
no choice, I was growing mushrooms in my lungs when I drove the car. 
I do not have the problem any more. The car smells awesome. All mold 
is killed. Ozone is the only thing apparently that will kil mold 
other than direct sunlight. 

[moderator snip]





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 06:07:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: engine and transmission dimensions

Matt;

Best thing to do is BRING them the transmission bell
housing.  If you give them the measurements, and
*ANYTHING* goes wrong, they will blame YOU.

Make them responsible for getting it right!


--- John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:


>> Matt, I have a transmission out of a car. What bolt
>> measurements do you
>> need. I also have end engine out and one on a engine
>> stand I could
>> possibility get for you.
>> John Hervey
>> www.specialtauto.com
>>



		
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 11:33:31 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Delorean Insurance

I'm reading in the back issues of Delorean World that there was a 
program underway to make insurance available to Delorean owners of the 
DOA through one company. Is that program still in effect?

Shannon
VIN 16113







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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 13:06:21 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: AC Drain leak on passenger carpet!

I did a stupid thing.  I was worried about water dripping on the 
frame where the drain tube drained under the spare.  A couple of 
weeks ago, I bent the rubber tube downward to direct water clear of 
the frame. When I did this, I put a kink in the tube, blocking about 
75% of the opening - a big "DOH!".  Today when I straightened it 
back out, about a cup of water poured out of it!  I tried vacuuming 
the drain out, and it seemed clear.  I also vacuumed about a cup of 
debris/leaves from behind the evaporator inside the AC box.  It 
wasn't blocking it much, just tucked around the bottom and side 
edges.

I ran the AC and water drips out of the drain fine, now, with no 
leaking on the passenger carpet. I think I'll deal with a little 
water dribbling on the frame, or get an extension tube to run it 
past the frame.

Thanks for advice,

Paul

vin 10944


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> Your problem is most likely not a lose connection but debris 
>> partially blocking the drain tube.  Water is backing up and 

running 

>> from the top down.  You would need to remove and clean or replace 
>> the drain tube.  Replace is probably better, its a cheap part and 
>> you don't want to keep messing around with this job.  
>> 
>> 
>> Sandor
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
>> wrote:
>
>>> > I just had my AC charged last week and it seems to be nice and 
>
>> cold 
>
>>> > now, but I have a leak.  Water is dribbling from the drain onto 

my 

>>> > driveway OK, which makes me think that the drain is not clogged 

at 

>>> > all, but it is also leaking onto my passenger side carpet, which 
>
>> is 
>
>>> > now soaked!  Any suggestions for tracking down the leak, what to 
>
>> look 
>
>>> > for, etc.?  I see the small section of drain pipe from the black 
>>> > plastic box into the floor.  Are there fittings that can be 
>
>> tightened?
>
>>> > 
>>> > Thanks.  It's a hot week in New England and I need the AC!
>>> > 
>>> > Paul
>>> > Vin 10944








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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 13:09:31 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: car pings when accelerating

Not sure.  The engine is quiet when gently accelerating, but if I push 
the pedal to the floor, I hear what sound like pinging, like the 
engine can't quite keep up with me gunning it.  Then if I ease up on 
the pedal, the sound vanishes.

What's the difference between pinging sounds and rocker chatter?

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Are you sure the engine is pinging in the cylinders? Maybe you're 
>> mistaking the sound with the normal rocker chatter...-----Dani B. 

#5003







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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 09:30:01 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Delorean Insurance

To my knowledge it never made it "off the ground".
It is unfortuenate that we do not have such a program which would make our 
cars even more desireable.

Cecil Longwisch
#10663




>>From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Delorean Insurance
>>Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 11:33:31 -0000
>>
>>I'm reading in the back issues of Delorean World that there was a
>>program underway to make insurance available to Delorean owners of the
>>DOA through one company. Is that program still in effect?
>>
>>Shannon
>>VIN 16113
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 13:34:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Torque Numbers

Break down and get the Workshop Manual. The head torques are not just
a number, it is a procedure. If you are attempting to rebuild a motor
without a manual you are very foolish not to spend the few bucks to
insure success. In fact the manuals should be among the first things
you order when you get a "D" if it didn't come with them! BTW, why do
you have to rebuild the motor? and NO, it does not make the car a
"zero" mileage car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "rlingo" <rlingo_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>> 
>> Hi all.
>> I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild and was wondering if someone

had the 

>> specs. on the torque numbers for the 'head bolts', 'push-rod nuts',

valve 

>> cover bolts' and what ever else needs to be torqued on the engine.
>> 
>> I know, I know... I need to buy the D Tech. manual. I've been

spending money 

>> I don't even have yet on parts though. I'll buy one soon, but I need

to get 

>>








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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 13:42:39 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Torsion Bar "Relief"...........

Without doing a whole engineering analysis we can go by history and
experience. The majority of the "fleet" keeps the doors closed with no
ill effects. It does not seem to affect the torsion bar adjustment.
The main problem appears to be the limited lifetime of the struts
which affects the adjustment and leaving the doors open "may" help in
that case. An alternative could be to remove the struts and close the
doors for long-term storage. IMHO it is safest to keep the doors
closed. Keeps the inside cleaner, no animals can get in, and you can
put a cover over the car. I DO recomend a small piece of rubber
between the rear hinge and the torsion bar so the bar cannot rub and
get scratched by the rear hinge.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_k...> wrote:

>> NM - From an engineering perspective, the torsion bars should be 
>> stressed at a level below the elastic limit for the material.  What 
>> this means in lay terms is that the material should never yield and 
>> become permanently set in a deformed or changed state.  From a real 
>> world perspective, there is a phenomenon called "plastic creep" where 
>> the material slowly yields and creeps under high sustained stresses.  
>>









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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 14:11:37 -0000
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Musty odor

Ozone machines range in sizes. Typically by square foot of rooms to 
be treated. All you really need is a one room machine. Run it 
overnight and you should be in good shape. The machines are costly 
$250 and up. I was fortunate to find one at a local trim shop that 
specializes in vehicle upholstery. I would check your local seat 
cover guys, they may have one. I was charged $50 to do the seats, 
than $75 to do the whole car. My seats were so bad; I wanted to do 
them separately. You can research all you want on line. Just type in 
Ozone cleaner.

Good luck.
Byron


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, MICHAEL W TOWNSLEY 
<michaeltownsley_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> Where can you purchase Ozone and what quanity is needed to 

thorougly treat a car? 

>> 
>> byrondelorean <celiambyron_at_dml_m...> wrote:Ozone works! I removed my 

seats, ozoned them seperately with the 

>> floor carpet. Then installed the seats and did the whole car. 
>> Absolutely remarkable. Believe me when I say that the car had been 
>> sitting in a fairly nice barn with concrete floors since 1985 

doors 

>> shut until late last year. Mold spores were visable all along the 
>> center consoles and seats. Everything cleaned up from the surface. 
>> The mold stink still prevailed even though I cleaned everything 
>> until I became virtually insane, I remember Rich W (King Kong D-

Rex)

>> told me about ozone. I had reservations regarding ozone, some 

sites 

>> that sell alternate products say it may may crack hard vinyls. I 

had 

>> no choice, I was growing mushrooms in my lungs when I drove the 

car. 

>> I do not have the problem any more. The car smells awesome. All 

mold 

>> is killed. Ozone is the only thing apparently that will kil mold 
>> other than direct sunlight. 
>> 
>> [moderator snip]







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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 14:17:26 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: engine and transmission dimensions

Agreed! - when you are "making things fit" like this, you are dealing 
in very tight tolerances - a few thousandths of an inch or less. I've 
rebuilt a couple of transmissions that were installed missing the 
alignment pins, and it's amazing the amount of damage a slight mis-
alignment can do. Including broken or severly worn input shafts. 

Make the machine shop responsible for making the part, and then re-
measure everything yourself before you put it together because even 
if they are "responsible" will they buy you another transmission if 
they are wrong and you don't catch it? Ultimatly the builder 
(aka "systems integrator") (you) is responsible. The only 
responsiblity that they will accept would be to correct the problem 
in the part they make. They are not likely to cover "consequential" 
damage.

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Matt;
>> 
>> Best thing to do is BRING them the transmission bell
>> housing.  If you give them the measurements, and
>> *ANYTHING* goes wrong, they will blame YOU.
>> 
>> Make them responsible for getting it right!
>> 
>> 
>> --- John Hervey <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>> 
>
>>> > Matt, I have a transmission out of a car. What bolt
>>> > measurements do you
>>> > need. 
>
>> 









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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 14:28:31 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Magical time for Delorean Owner

I'm not sure if other Delorean owners feel the same way or not, but 
since I got my car in April, I always had more of a cautious, 
hesitant feeling about owning and driving the car, due to problems 
that needed figuring out and fixing.  This prevented me from 
truly "enjoying" the car.  Instead, I remained frustrated and 
worried as I emptied my wallet to fix this or that.

However, after depending on the excellent advice from this group, 
fixing all the "problem" areas that are common to most of the cars 
(but new to me as I learned about them), I reached that point that I 
think many of us battle uphill for as we fix one thing, then two 
other things break!  Sure, there are always other items to fix, but 
I can finally say with confidence that my car is reliable after 
fixing coolant problems, electrical upgrades, A/C system, tires, 
brakes, clutch cylinder, exhaust leak, etc.  

I feel like I reached the mountain summit, and can take a deep 
breath the enjoy the view! To take a problem free drive is very 
refreshing and rewarding.  I feel like I have now earned my "gull" 
wings and understand what it's like to be a Delorean owner.  Do many 
of you feel the same way?  As the quest to techincally perfect our 
cars is rewarding in its own way, the real reward for me is 
strapping myself in, grasping the steering wheel, and pulling out of 
the driveway!

Paul
vin 10944






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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 15:28:26 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Simplified replacement of high-pressure AC hose

As I reported a little time back, I had my high-pressure AC hose 
finally fail as a result of it rubbing against the emergency brake 
cable. The high-pressure hose is the one that runs along the 
driver's side of the frame.

I replaced the hose last night and thought I'd share a simplified 
method for doing this. The workshop manual calls for separating the 
body from the rolling chassis for this procedure, which is not that 
big of a deal, but I found it to be unnecessary in my case.

The hardest part of the procedure was removing the shroud around the 
radiator which I found to be necessary in order to get a wrench on 
the condenser neck fitting to hold back on it while loosening the 
hose fitting. I suspect that when they were new the shrouds were a 
lot more flexible and easier to deform as necessary to slip into 
place. It does come out fine with a little coaxing and flexing.

Instead of separating the body from the rolling chassis, in my case 
I only needed about another 3/16" of clearance to slip the hose 
through by taking advantage of the fitting geometry. To gain this 
additional clearance, I loosened the driver's side body bolt in the 
luggage compartment (leaving it still threaded but loosened about 
1/8"), removed the two driver's side body mounting bolts on the 
center tunnel plus the seatbelt ancor bolt (which also attaches the 
body to frame), and loosened the driver's side rear body mounting 
bolt that's approximately under the engine cover lightswitch. I left 
the driver's side body mounting bolt in the rear pontoon untouched.

I then raised the car using the normal body lift points and was 
pleased to see that I got a little bit of deflection to increase the 
clearance slightly where the AC hose runs between the frame and body.

The hose sits between the frame and the body along the length of the 
center section. To slip the hose out, I pulled the hose back and 
through by rotating the hose until the metal bend portion of the 
fitting (which is the narrowest part of the front fitting) slipped 
out through the gap between the body and frame. It's a little 
awkward to explain using words, but the 90 degree bend on the metal 
fitting is oriented such that the fat hose is pulled through the 
inner recess it sits in but the bend on the fitting pulls along the 
length of the gap between the frame and body. The fitting on the end 
of the bend is actually outside the channel.

In this fashion, the hose assembly can be withdrawn. In a couple 
places along the route, I had to increase the deflection slightly by 
gently using a prybar, but since the body bolts on the driver's side 
are removed in this section I didn't have any trouble getting enough 
deflection to slip the house out. The spot requiring the most 
mucking was at the inner corner, where on my car the metal had 
puckered in the forming process, making the clearance a little 
tighter.

Aside from removing the radiator shroud (which I did the other day 
and forgot to time how long it took), removing and reinstalling the 
high-pressure hose took me about 45 minutes. A good lift is oviously 
a grest help in this process and I suspect if you attempt to do this 
on jackstands and a creeper your mileage will vary substantially.

    Knut








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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 15:41:55 +0100 (BST)
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Re: car pings when accelerating

Could be the heat shield that is bolted onto the cross
over pipe that connects the two manifolds being loose.
 It can vibrate and make a pining noise under hard
acceleration.

Dan


--- sweetp01569 <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com> wrote:


>> Not sure.  The engine is quiet when gently
>> accelerating, but if I push 
>> the pedal to the floor, I hear what sound like
>> pinging, like the 
>> engine can't quite keep up with me gunning it.  Then
>> if I ease up on 
>> the pedal, the sound vanishes.
>> 
>> What's the difference between pinging sounds and
>> rocker chatter?
>> 
>> Paul
>> 
>>[moderator snip]





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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 15:32:48 -0000
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamergeinc.com>
Subject: Re: Unsynchronized door locks

Rich,

I had the same problems when I was installing my actuators. I had 
both doors up with the latches manually closed and all the panels 
removed. I could operate the switch on one side and see the switch 
on the other side moving only halfway into the same position.

I first suspected the lock module. I had rebuilt it using the great 
guide from the tech files, but I suspected it wasn't staying active 
long enough to move the mechanism completely into position. So I 
changed the large 1000mfd caps to 2200mfd. This resulted in a slight 
improvement, but sometimes they sill would not go all the way.

Then I lubricated everything in both ends of the door with Winzer 
Polylube I had bought from Specialtauto. I mean I really soaked 
everything in the locking chain. It started working perfectly 
everytime! Before I closed the door panels up, I speayed it all 
again.

No problems since. I would suggest after following Toby's advice to 
adjust the rods, try lubricating.

Marty Galbreath
3765
with most all of Toby's electronics  :) 














--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_k...> wrote:

>> Rich - I would start by carefully and completely marching through 
>> the door lock adjustment procedure detailed in the shop manual 
>> (P:02:11).  See also service bulletin ST-10-8.81 in the "Tech 

Files" 

>> section.  It can be rather tedious, but it is the best place to 

get 

>> back to factory lock settings.  This procedure focuses on getting 
>> the door lock wiper switches (bell cranks) at the correct 

positions 

>> so that they offer proper feedback information to the door lock 
>> module.  Where the manual talks about moving the solenoids back 

and 

>> forth to position the bell cranks (if necessary), you can shift 

the 

>> position by moving the linkage rod on the actuator where it 

connects 

>> to the forward lock rod.  A couple of things to look for - the 
>> switches can get loose at the pivot point.  The bell crank rotates 
>> around on a rivet.  I had to carefully "redrive" my rivets to 
>> tighten the switches up so that they rotated smoothly and 
>> consistently.  The next thing to look for is seriously bent lock 
>> linkage rods.  If you have an excessive bend, the rod will flex 

too 

>> much, and not move the mechanism enough.  Make sure that you are 
>> getting very good and consistent electrical contact on the bell 
>> crank wiper switches.  Chris Almy wrote a great piece on 
>> troubleshooting the bell crank switch positions a while back on 

the 

>> DML.  I don't have the message number, but it was a very nice 

write-

>> up.  Let us know if you have any further questions on this.
>> 
>> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
>> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
>> www.delorean-parts.com    

[moderator snip]




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 16:10:31 -0000
From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Huey Lewis Concert in Central Jersey

Yes, it was Video Bob. Problem was with some drunk people. He can 
definitely explain better, I only heard about that story after I 
posted this. Anyways, I still think it would be a cool thing to do, I 
thought about it because some owners have been taking their cars to 
different BTTF screenings around the country and the audience loves 
it.

Flavia
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_t...> wrote:

>>              Didn't someone take their car to one if their concerts 

a couple

>> of years ago and wish they wouldn't have afterwards? I don't 

remember

>> what all happened but tthey weren't happy.
>> 
>>                       Jason  #5903
>> 
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_y...>
>> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 11:36 PM
>> Subject: [DML] Huey Lewis Concert in Central Jersey
>> 
>> 
>
>>> > http://www.statetheaternj.org/show.cfm?eventid=1061&venue=State
>>> > 
>>> > Hey you guys that have that cool stainless steel car, why don't 

you 

>>> > guys show up at this concert??? I've been planning on going, but 

that 

>>> > would be a good extra motivation if it was a DeLorean-BTTF type 

event. 




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