Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2790
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:10 Aug 2005 21:18:46 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: car pings when accelerating
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

2. Re: Re: Need advise
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

3. Re: TankZilla & DMCH Sender
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

4. Air conditioner service
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

5. Rear Louvers hitting stainless T-Panel
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>

6. Re: Re: Torque Numbers
From: "rlingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

7. Re: AC Drain leak on passenger carpet!
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>

8. AC fan speed selector anomaly
From: "Brandon" <morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Magical time for Delorean Owner
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Re: Torque Numbers
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

11. Re: Rear Louvers hitting stainless T-Panel
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

12. Re: Fuel Senders
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Re: AC fan speed selector anomaly
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 16:18:52 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: car pings when accelerating

It's hard to tell the differences unless you are a mechanic, for me a 
pinging is a different pitch sound and is more internal sounding [I'm 
sure the helps a loooot]. I'm not really sure how to describe how it 
would sound. If hear a hammering that's usually a rod cap that's loose 
on the rod. The rockers won't be just a repeating ping or knocking 
sound, they actually just 'chatter'. Like if you took all the rocker 
arms and violently jiggled them up and down-with the play they have 
they will all make noise but not in a repetition since some are 
compressing the springs and etc so it will just be..well..noise. But 
they will make noise only at certain times. Only when you're at lower 
range RPMS with a good load on the engine will they chatter. For 
instance, if you're going up a hill and you up shift to a gear that 
can't quite pull the load of the car yet and you step on the gas hard 
so it will-then you'll hear it. Or say if you're coasting on a road at 
20 and you put it in 5th gear (assuming you have a 5spd)-car will be 
at like 1000RPMS you'll hear them then too. But if you're going down 
the highway at 60 and push on the gas in 5th you probably wont. So if 
you have no load (driving a straight road) and you're at about 
3500RPMS and you push on the gas, do you hear it then? Take the car 
and try going down the road at 20 or 30 and then hit the gas, the 
rockers will be noisy until the RPMS are up, and then fade even with 
heavy acceleration. After I read this again to myself; because the 
rockers only make the chatter at a low RPM range, you usually don't 
always hit the range driving [5spd anyway] so most times you won't 
hear the noise ALL the time but sometimes. Then again it depends on 
your driving and shifting habits. Since I'm not sure what RPMS the 
auto hits when it shifts, I will leave it out of this post. -----Dani 
B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:

>> Not sure.  The engine is quiet when gently accelerating, but if I 

push 

>> the pedal to the floor, I hear what sound like pinging, like the 
>> engine can't quite keep up with me gunning it.  Then if I ease up on 
>> the pedal, the sound vanishes.
>> 
>> What's the difference between pinging sounds and rocker chatter?
>> 
>> Paul
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
>>> > Are you sure the engine is pinging in the cylinders? Maybe you're 
>>> > mistaking the sound with the normal rocker chatter...-----Dani B. 
>
>> #5003








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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 19:00:36 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: Need advise

Johnny

The difference in temperature was not caused by actual temperature. It was a 
reading error. Stainless steel has different emissivity when compared to 
aluminum or plastic. That might cause a large error in reading when using an 
infrared thermometer. To accurately measure the temperature of such 
different materials using one of those thermometers you can cover the 
surface with masking tape and then take the reading.
Another possibility is that one car was low on coolant and the bottle was 
just empty and that's why it stayed cooler.

Tom Niemczewski
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet pl -> www.deloreana.com
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Johnny Sawyer" <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>


>> You might find this a little interesting:  During one of our club
>> events, somone brought a laser thermometer and measured the temp on my
>> aluminum bottle vs. the stainless.  The aluminum was about 20 degrees
>> cooler and I had arrived about the same time as the other person with
>> the stainless bottle.







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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 17:50:22 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: TankZilla & DMCH Sender

John,
     What will the resistance in ohms be at full and empty?  The 
stock sender works perfect with the digital dash and I want to have 
a backup for when mine finally goes....

Thanks,
Matt
VIN 16816

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> Group,
>> If your going to be replacing your fuel sending unit any time soon 

and want

>> to try a new unit. I will have in about a month the old fashion ( 

If you

>> want to call it that ) float sending type unit with the new thick-

film

>> resistor technology. The price so far looks to be at about $69.95 

ea. So

>> hold on and see what I will have.
>> John Hervey







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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 14:54:34 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Air conditioner service

 As of this week Jeff Earhart who is a tennant at my building specializing in commercial heating and air conditioning has invested in a tank of r12 (just because of me and all the D"s) and has decided to help us in keeping our air conditioners working.  His rates will be posted shortly and you can have it done at my building by arranging through Jeff (leave me out of it LOL) 
 
He has two conversion options if you decide to get out of R12.
 
Jeff can be reached at 513-702-3480 and he will give better rates if he can do multiple cars.  He has die and sniffers for leak detection and we have been using him at the building for about a year and decided to rent him space there to do his work.
 
I had one shop quote me $1100 to do my sons car which had a cracked manifold.  Jeff did it for under $200 and most of that was Freon and a new fitting plus repairing a fitting.
 
He does complete system evacutations and recovery.
 
Jeff will be posting his rates soon he is doing some of my DeLoreans now to see what is involved.
4 down and one to go.
 
Ken 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 13:28:21 -0400
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Rear Louvers hitting stainless T-Panel

Hmm, my search didn't return any previous posts, so lets start a new one
 :-) 

I just realized that my rear louvers after much opening / closing are
rubbing the back T-Panel.  It also appears the back T-Panel is now
slightly bent under on the rear left side.  

Now I have loosened the bolts (and removed the struts) to adjust the
louvers.  If I move the Louvers to far back then they wont lock any
more.  This is really a tight fit to not hit the rear T-Panel, and still
get it to lock.  

Any suggestions for getting this to fit just right?  Or should I keep
pushing till it fits  :-)   





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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 14:04:07 -0500
From: "rlingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Torque Numbers

Dude, why so harsh.?  I uderstand what your saying.  Just sounded a little 
to much like my Ex Wife...
I'm buying the manuals already.  Didn't mean to offend anyone with my hast 
in trying to replace all the internals of my engine.

As for the Zero miles question.  I was just curious as to what the 
parameters where.  I wasn't trying to lable my car a 'Zero-miles' car.
End of discussion.....

Lingo #2034

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 8:34 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Torque Numbers



>> Break down and get the Workshop Manual. The head torques are not just
>> a number, it is a procedure. If you are attempting to rebuild a motor
>> without a manual you are very foolish not to spend the few bucks to
>> insure success. In fact the manuals should be among the first things
>> you order when you get a "D" if it didn't come with them! BTW, why do
>> you have to rebuild the motor? and NO, it does not make the car a
>> "zero" mileage car.
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>>
>>

[moderator snip]





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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 19:35:59 -0000
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: AC Drain leak on passenger carpet!

how did you get to the ac box?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
wrote:

>> I did a stupid thing.  I was worried about water dripping on the 
>> frame where the drain tube drained under the spare.  A couple of 
>> weeks ago, I bent the rubber tube downward to direct water clear 

of 

>> the frame. When I did this, I put a kink in the tube, blocking 

about 

>> 75% of the opening - a big "DOH!".  Today when I straightened it 
>> back out, about a cup of water poured out of it!  I tried 

vacuuming 

>> the drain out, and it seemed clear.  I also vacuumed about a cup 

of 

>> debris/leaves from behind the evaporator inside the AC box.  It 
>> wasn't blocking it much, just tucked around the bottom and side 
>> edges.
>> 
>> I ran the AC and water drips out of the drain fine, now, with no 
>> leaking on the passenger carpet. I think I'll deal with a little 
>> water dribbling on the frame, or get an extension tube to run it 
>> past the frame.
>> 
>> Thanks for advice,
>> 
>> Paul
>> 
>> vin 10944
>> 
>> 

[moderator snip]




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 19:29:07 -0000
From: "Brandon" <morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: AC fan speed selector anomaly

Hello group,

I was searching for an answer to this question in the archives, but I
didn't have much luck with an answer.  I just got my AC working again
(oh man is it blowing cold now!), and when I turn down my fan speed to
1 or 2, it is running at the same speed.  Pos 3 and 4 are as they
should be, and I think 2 is working fine,(slower than pos 3) but when
I switch to 1 it stays at the same speed as 2.  Any ideas as to how to
fix this problem?  Thanks!

-Brandon
#4205
Orlando, FL







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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 12:58:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Magical time for Delorean Owner

For me, i'll know i'm done with my car when I decide to put the fuse back in for the dome and door lights.  Until then....i'll always be working on my car...i'm sure of it.  Thats ok though.  I can drive it wherever I need and it hasn't let me down.
 
Erik
04512

sweetp01569 <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com> wrote:
I'm not sure if other Delorean owners feel the same way or not, but 
since I got my car in April, I always had more of a cautious, 
hesitant feeling about owning and driving the car, due to problems 
that needed figuring out and fixing. This prevented me from 
truly "enjoying" the car. Instead, I remained frustrated and 
worried as I emptied my wallet to fix this or that.

However, after depending on the excellent advice from this group, 
fixing all the "problem" areas that are common to most of the cars 
(but new to me as I learned about them), I reached that point that I 
think many of us battle uphill for as we fix one thing, then two 
other things break! Sure, there are always other items to fix, but 
I can finally say with confidence that my car is reliable after 
fixing coolant problems, electrical upgrades, A/C system, tires, 
brakes, clutch cylinder, exhaust leak, etc. 

I feel like I reached the mountain summit, and can take a deep 
breath the enjoy the view! To take a problem free drive is very 
refreshing and rewarding. I feel like I have now earned my "gull" 
wings and understand what it's like to be a Delorean owner. Do many 
of you feel the same way? As the quest to techincally perfect our 
cars is rewarding in its own way, the real reward for me is 
strapping myself in, grasping the steering wheel, and pulling out of 
the driveway!

Paul
vin 10944






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 19:56:27 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Torque Numbers

Once a car has been driven, it can never be a zero mile car again, no 
matter what you replace.  Some restorers will reset the mileage on a 
car that has been completely redone, but the title must state that 
the actual mileage is unknown.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "rlingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>: -------------- 



>> Dude, why so harsh.? I uderstand what your saying. Just sounded a little 
>> to much like my Ex Wife... 
>> I'm buying the manuals already. Didn't mean to offend anyone with my hast 
>> in trying to replace all the internals of my engine. 
>> 
>> As for the Zero miles question. I was just curious as to what the 
>> parameters where. I wasn't trying to lable my car a 'Zero-miles' car. 
>> End of discussion..... 
>> 
>> Lingo #2034 
>> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 13:10:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Louvers hitting stainless T-Panel

I found a post when searching for T-Panel Reinforcement earlier this week, but there is also a tech paper at:  http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/tbar.htm, which I think is the same entry.
 
Regards,
Wayne / VIN#2447
www.AA9DY.com


Jason Perkins <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com> wrote:
Hmm, my search didn't return any previous posts, so lets start a new one
 :-) 

I just realized that my rear louvers after much opening / closing are
rubbing the back T-Panel. It also appears the back T-Panel is now
slightly bent under on the rear left side. 

Now I have loosened the bolts (and removed the struts) to adjust the
louvers. If I move the Louvers to far back then they wont lock any
more. This is really a tight fit to not hit the rear T-Panel, and still
get it to lock. 

Any suggestions for getting this to fit just right? Or should I keep
pushing till it fits  :-)  





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 20:57:32 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel Senders

Marc Levy wrote:


>>The DMCH unit uses a float that activates
>>micro-switches attached to a fixed resistor network. 
>>IIRC, there are 5 or 6 switches.  The result is your
>>fuel gage becomes a indicator with only 6 positions.
>>  
>>

This is incorrect. It's more like 9. Ad they're reed relays, not micro 
switches, but I'm being pernickety now  :-) 

Martin




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 15:03:07 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: AC fan speed selector anomaly

You will probably have to change the fan speed switch, but before that, 
check the resister pack that is in the evaporator case, near the 
passenger's knees.  Specifically, look at the grey connector for shorted 
recepticle positions.
Fan Speed Switch 100755, $24.66.
Warren at DMC


Brandon wrote:

>> Hello group,
>> 
>> I was searching for an answer to this question in the archives, but I
>> didn't have much luck with an answer.  I just got my AC working again
>> (oh man is it blowing cold now!), and when I turn down my fan speed to
>> 1 or 2, it is running at the same speed.  Pos 3 and 4 are as they
>> should be, and I think 2 is working fine,(slower than pos 3) but when
>> I switch to 1 it stays at the same speed as 2.  Any ideas as to how to
>> fix this problem?  Thanks!
>> 
>> -Brandon
>> #4205
>> Orlando, FL
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 






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