Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2792
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:11 Aug 2005 19:07:05 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Simplified replacement of high-pressure AC hose
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

2. Re: Fix for funky smell when running A/C?
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>

3. Re: Rear Louvers hitting stainless T-Panel
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

4. New De Lorean font available
From: "gullwingdoors" <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. DMCH reproduction headlight switches
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

6. Re: Torque Numbers
From: "dmcerik" <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: engine and transmission dimensions
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

8. Re: Torque Numbers
From: "dmcerik" <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. AC "whoosh" sound when I press clutch pedal
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

10. AC system compressor doesn't cycle, high discharge pressure
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamergeinc.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 15:29:47 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Simplified replacement of high-pressure AC hose

Hi John -- I didn't even consider a solution like the one you mention, 
but you're right that your approach would make this job even more 
trivial.

    Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> Knut, The same job can be done in about 10 minutes with my new 

spliced

>> hoses. Take a look. No prying on the Fram or scaring the epoxy.
>> John Hervey
>> http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/AC-Cooling.html
>> 








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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 16:36:51 -0000
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
Subject: Re: Fix for funky smell when running A/C?

Nearly every automotive dealership parts counter will have their 
manufaturer-specific brands of deodorizer.  

A 'generic' brand that I have used for about 15 years is "Frigi Fresh" 
by BG Chemical.  Google searches show it online anywhere from $6 to 
$28 a can, but I just pick it up at a local car dealer for $5 per can 
(call the parts counter at a few dealerships and ask for it).

It will really help clean out the musty smell in the vents.  Simply 
turn the fan on full, and cycle through all of the positions, shooting 
a short burst of the spray into the outside air intake.  It'll go 
through all of the air passages, kill the offending odors, and leave a 
nice new clean smell.

-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927








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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 10:23:04 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Rear Louvers hitting stainless T-Panel

Jason,

I've had good luck using 'wobbly socket extensions'.  If you've never heard 
of these they are basically regular socket extensions but with a slightly 
rounded end so you can bend them around and create an angle with your 
extensions.  From here I close the louvers and make sure it latches and is 
at the proper height as to not hit the T-panel, then I can reach in with my 
series of wobbly extensions and tighten the bolts without having the louvers 
open.  Having the wobbly extensions allows you to direct the ratchet out one 
of the louver openings to tighten the bolts.  Works great!

Good Luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 1:28 PM
Subject: [DML] Rear Louvers hitting stainless T-Panel



>> Hmm, my search didn't return any previous posts, so lets start a new one
>>  :-) 
>>
>> I just realized that my rear louvers after much opening / closing are
>> rubbing the back T-Panel.  It also appears the back T-Panel is now
>> slightly bent under on the rear left side.
>>
>> Now I have loosened the bolts (and removed the struts) to adjust the
>> louvers.  If I move the Louvers to far back then they wont lock any
>> more.  This is really a tight fit to not hit the rear T-Panel, and still
>> get it to lock.
>>
>> Any suggestions for getting this to fit just right?  Or should I keep
>> pushing till it fits  :-) 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 







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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 16:57:16 -0000
From: "gullwingdoors" <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: New De Lorean font available

Hi,

The new font is ready, you can download it from the files section of 
dmcnews.

Save it to C:\WINDOWS\Fonts to use it on your computer.

You may dristibute it wherever, but please include the readme file with 
it.

Enjoy!


Chuck






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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 17:08:43 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: DMCH reproduction headlight switches

Sorry to be a pest but we still need around 50 orders for DMCH's 
headlight switch if they're going to place the order to have them made.

I'd really like a new one to replace my almost-self-destructed one. 
There's got to be 50 or so more people out of the 1500 on this list 
who want one. August 31st is the deadline just in case you're new and 
didn't know.

And no....DMCH did not ask or pay me to post this. I just want a new 
headlight switch.

Rich A.
#5335








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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 17:26:26 -0000
From: "dmcerik" <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Numbers

Here is a link to the torque specs

http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-09-7.81.html

Erik
4512






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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 17:10:40 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: engine and transmission dimensions

Oh,
     That's a given.  I am bringing them both bellhousings.  I've 
been in touch with Richard and Matt Cutter.  We're going to use the 
measurements as a check when we heliarc the two bellhousings 
together for a template.  Then we'll create a *.igs file so that I 
can have them CNC machined in quantity anywhere that can do 
machining.  
     I am not too familiar with all of that, though.  I have heard 
that Sand Casting is much cheaper than CNC machining.  It is also 
strong enough to handle the torque forces.  I'll be honest, if I can 
save a $$ here and there it would be nice.  Richard said the heliarc 
weld on his bellhousing has withstood the torture just fine.  I rode 
with him in Memphis and he was by no means gentle on that car or the 
transmission.  The only problem there is that there are a limited 
supply of DeLorean bellhousings so I don't want to keep hacking them 
up.  Since my car puts out about 100HP and 100 lb.-ft. of torque 
LESS than the Northstar, I'm not terribly worried.

Thanks for the word of caution, though.

Matt
VIN 16816

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Matt;
>> 
>> Best thing to do is BRING them the transmission bell
>> housing.  If you give them the measurements, and
>> *ANYTHING* goes wrong, they will blame YOU.
>> 
>> Make them responsible for getting it right!









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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 17:33:28 -0000
From: "dmcerik" <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Numbers

also refer to the update

http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-24-10.81.html









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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 16:59:18 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: AC "whoosh" sound when I press clutch pedal

When I shift the car with AC on max, I hear a "whooshing" sound for a 
second or two as I press the clutch pedal.  It appears to come from 
behind the center control console (involving mode switch perhaps or 
vacuum lines in this area?)How are the two related?  Are there vacuum 
related issues that occur as I press the pedal?

Thanks,

Paul
vin 10944






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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 16:59:46 -0000
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamergeinc.com>
Subject: AC system compressor doesn't cycle, high discharge pressure

I am having a terrible problem with my AC system on the Delorean. 
Maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

The beginning…after I had my car restoration complete, I checked
the Freon charge and saw it was empty. I evacuated the system and 
charged with 36 ounces of R12. I had replaced the low pressure 
switch since it was old and rusty, but nothing else was done to the 
system.

The compressor ran all of the time, pressure was way high on intake 
and and about right on discharge. After a few minutes of driving, 
either the high pressure switch would turn off the compressor or the 
evaporator froze up, and the air got warm.  I detected a leak in the 
evaporator as well. OK now I need to do some things to the system. 

So I replaced the evaporator, restored the insides of the case with 
new foam and such, replaced the Orifice tube, accumulator, flushed 
the condenser and hoses, drained the compressor of oil, installed 6 
ounces of new mineral oil into the compressor, put two more in the 
lines for a total of 8 now in the system, and replaced the high 
pressure switch because it was old. I evacuated the system to a 
level of 30" Hg for two hours using a 5 cfm HVAC vacuum pump. I 
charged the system again with 36 ounces R12. Same result. I have 50-
55 psi on the low side reading taken at the service ports. High side 
reads about 195 - 220.

I noticed as I charged the Freon that the cycling seemed to be 
somewhat normal when I only had one pound of Freon in the system. As 
I added more to reach the specified level, the cycling became more 
and more constant. At all times during charging the suction pressure 
was above normal.

The fans at the front are both working strong and in the correct 
direction. The condenser is as clean as possible.

What would cause this high suction reading and continuous running of 
the compressor?  

Any advice appreciated.

At wits end,
Marty Galbreath
#3765

 

 









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