Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2803
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:17 Aug 2005 21:04:13 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: R12 and R134a
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

2. Hands on review: DeLorean on eBay
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>

3. Re: And for my NEXT problem... :)
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

4. Re: Fuel Gauge
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

5. Re: Re: best battery to put in
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

6. Re: And for my NEXT problem... :)
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: DML 10th anniversary
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 14:39:50 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: R12 and R134a

If the compressor cycles at all, you do have some charge left.

If you elect to overhaul the entire system, expect the hoses to seize 
to the evaporator, accumulator and possibly the condensor badly. You 
can try to free them with a propane torch but that didn't work for me 
and I cut the hoses and replaced the accumulator and evaporator.

The early style accumulator did not have the high pressure safety cut-
out switch. If you do the overhaul, upgrade to the newer accumulator 
and splice in wiring for the over pressure switch.

New hoses are a benefit too because you'll get new "barrier" hoses. 
Not that I'm any A/C expert, but rumor is, the old hoses break down 
and permit leak-by throughout the length of the hose. New hoses 
prevent that.

For R-143a conversion, you'll need R-143 compatible O-rings (commonly 
available) and schrader valve adaptors (if you keep your old hoses) 
and you'll have to flush the system and refill the compressor with 
ester oil once you get the mineral oil out.

I also recommend replacing the standard orifice tube in the evap with 
a VOV (variable orifice valve). It's supposed to make things cooler 
and I did notice a difference when I went from one to the other.

Again, I'm no expert but I did just complete the system overhaul with 
a large amount of assistance from the Plakosh Foundation for the 
Mechanically Challenged.  ;) 

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "secret_jedi_guy" 
<secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> It would seem that summer time is the time for lots of A/C posts.  

At 

>> this time I need to replace all three main A/C hoses. The ones from 
>> the comp. to condensor, comp to evaporator, and condensor to 
>> evaporator.  There is no freon charge left as it all has leaked out 
>> and the compressor clutch kicks on and off real fast so I'm not 
>> running it anymore.  I'm just using the vents on speed 4(just 

replaced 

>> the circuit breaker).  
>> 
>> I was wondering if at this point should I convert my car to use 

R134a 

>> from the original R12. My car also has the early style accumulator 
>> still installed.  Would I have to replace that as well?  What is 

the 

>> difference between the two refridgerents?  I know that I can 

actually 

>> go and get R134a more easily that R12.  Other than that though I am 
>> not sure.
>> 
>> Thanks for all of the help
>> 
>> Japheth Deaux
>> VIN:1223








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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 15:26:16 -0000
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Hands on review: DeLorean on eBay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-DeLorean-ONLY-9-000-Miles-
DeLorean-
DMC_W0QQitemZ4569025222QQcategoryZ31830QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZVi
ewItem

I had a chance today to take a look at a car being sold locally on 
eBay. I was requested by a fellow car enthusiast to look it over, and 
was happy to do so. He later informed me that he decided against the 
car, but I still wanted to take a look at it myself and post what 
will hopefully be helpful to another soon to be owner. 

The car is being sold by a large dealership in Orchard Park, NY 
called Towne Automotive group. I contacted Scott as listed in the 
auction to see the car. He is very friendly and seems like a great 
person to purchase a car from.

Now lets dive in…the stainless steel is absolutely amazing. I could 
only find one small blemish above the drivers side wheel well that 
was no bigger than a centimeter, and looks like it was just rubbed 
with something. No scratch, just a slight shine where the grain 
should continue through. Any owner would be proud to have such 
pristine stainless panels. The bumpers were in great shape, and the 
car has the stainless DeLorean inserts on the rear. The front grill 
has no rust, and the radiator shows no front end damage. The tires 
are original, and did not look like they were rotting, but I did not 
take one off and look behind. The louvers are a bit faded, and on a 
scale of 1 to 10 (ten being extremely faded) these were about a 3. 
Note that I was in a shaded garage, and know they can look different 
in the sun. 

The struts on the doors are sagging, but they will be replaced when 
the car is sold. Also, the battery is dying, and will be replaced 
also. The interior is in great shape also, as well as the engine bay. 
You can definitely tell the car has low miles on it. The frame was 
one of the best I have looked at, and I could not see any rust 
forming, nor any cracking near or around the engine. Right behind the 
front wheels there looked to be some deterioration, which seems to be 
normal with all D's, as I am told water seeps in there and sits. 

The car drove really well, did notice that there was no coolant in 
the overflow bottle, checked oil and it was good. Much different for 
me, as this was my first automatic D to drive. Idle seemed to jump 
for a minute then lower when sitting rarely, not sure if this is 
normal behavior for an automatic. Cooling fans worked, air needs a 
recharge which Scott is going to handle before the car is sold. Had 
good pickup, shifted gears smoothly, all lights worked that I 
checked; only ones I did not check were reverse lights. Brakes seemed 
a tad bit soft, probably just needs new fluid and a bleed from 
sitting. Scott said that he has driven the car half a dozen times in 
the past month with no issue.

Now, as I am anal and note anything I see wrong with the car, the 
following list will be long. Please be aware that everything listed 
below is to give a perspective owner the work needed to make the 
car `absolutely perfect', and is not always a bad thing, just my list 
of observations. 

-	The engine light clear shield is missing
-	Original coolant bottle looks good, no major cracking or 
heavy discoloration
-	No throttle cover ice shield recall
-	Bolts missing from the air intake compartment (not sure of 
the technical name for it, the black compartment with the DMC logo 
that sits on the engine)
-	The engine lid is saggy, needs bolts on latch tightened, and 
new prop
-	Struts on the louvers are good
-	Slight cracking under louver 2 from the top on support brace
-	No air bleeder kit (didn't seem like PO did any updates)
-	Engine light switch is stuck down
-	Car has power rear antenna
-	DeLorean stainless name plating on bumper
-	License plate frame is present (not in the pictures on ebay)
-	Car has been towed, tow hooks are bent
-	Hardly ANY frame rust that I could see (while looking from 
behind, under car, no lift)
-	Bumper has been cleaned (in ebay picture, there is white 
residue from a previous bumper sticker)
-	Coolant hose under car on drivers side is weeping (seems to 
be a normal thing with age)
-	Has original fuses/relays. NO fuse box melting.
-	Original tires (wear on front doesn't seem to be fully even, 
but I am not a tire expert)
-	Car has an aftermarket alarm in the engine bay, I did not 
test this
-	Needs new "outside' weather stripping for both doors as it 
has peeled off (still present) and ripped on the drivers side, the 
part that glues to the car around the windshield and follows down to 
the foot sill
-	Leather is in great shape
-	Window button labels are worn (more so on passenger side) but 
defrost is good
-	As with most automatics, the shifter label is missing
-	The a-pillar is pulling away from the windshield on the 
drivers side
-	Headliners were not sagging, all good, both driver and 
passenger side had small marks on them (nothing big or highly 
noticeable)
-	Missing exterior black cap on drivers side that covers the 
seatbelt bolting
-	Bonnet struts need to be replaced (not sure if Scott is doing 
this)
-	Stripping on hood near windshield needs a reglue
-	Drivers side speakers did not work
-	Front dome light was out (guessing bad bulb)
-	Binnacle needs the black frame reglued

In my opinion, nothing mentioned above that needs to be done is 
terribly expensive, and cosmetically and mechanically, the car is 
sound & solid. If I were to guess I would say it is worth at least 
$17-18k, possibly higher. Hoping this nice car can go to a good home!

-Derek #10084









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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 10:30:24 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: And for my NEXT problem... :)

Any time a Delorean 'bucks' the way you describe, there's trouble in the 
tank.  Either the baffle has come loose from the floor of the tank or 
the pick-up hose is broken.  Or maybe you're out of fuel.  Go to the 
tank throught the spare tire well, remove the pump, and look into the 
hole.  You should see the problem.
Warren at DMC


John Rydholm wrote:

>> Hey all, been a while. I recently had a complete Valeo clutch kit 
>> installed on my DeLorean, plus a 12~ something grade shift linkage 
>> pivot that will (supposedly) never break like my old one did. She 
>> ran great for about 3 weeks. Then! Suddenly! *dramatic music here* 
>> The DeLorean started to threaten to stall on me. Now bear in mind 
>> that I've spent almost $4K on restoring this thing. I told 
>> myself, "Ok, John. You had the main wiring harness redone. You have 
>> new spark plugs, plug wires, cap, & rotor. You have new vacuum 
>> hoses, fuel pump and accumulator." So I figured it couldn't possibly 
>> be the ignition system. It had to be the trans as that's the last 
>> thing that I got worked on. The strange thing is, the car only 
>> threatens to stall when you first accelerate from a dead stop. Say, 
>> at a stop sign or a light. As you go through the first 2 or 3 gears, 
>> the engine sputters and the car will jerk forward repeatedly. But, 
>> when I'm on the freeway or highway in 4-5th gears, doing 50-88mph 
>> (lol), she runs fine! Weird, huh? I've sent it in to the local 
>> repair shop and they should tell me what the new problem is. But 
>> have any of you ever experienced something like this? Such...horror? 
>> Oh the humanity! A non-running DeLorean! 
>> -proceeds to cry-
>> I'm just kidding
>> ...okay, I'm good now. Hope your day is better than mine.
>> John Rydholm
>> Romeo, Michigan
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 






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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 10:41:40 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge

The factory fuel level sender is well-known to be fragile.  We make and 
sell a direct replacement, drop in and plug in.  Part number 
110555-$99.00.  Here's a pic.
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=2400&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
Warren at DMC


dmcjosh85 wrote:

>> Does the DMC-12 factory fuel gauge have any known problems? With my 
>> DMC after pumping in some fuel the gauge wont move/update for several 
>> minutes, several hours and lately its been 2 days and the needle still 
>> wont update.
>> 
>> ~ Josh Tidwell
>> VIN: 04463
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 






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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 17:44:15 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: best battery to put in


>> Anybody has a "better" suggestion for batteries for the future?
>>


Yeah, I do! If you keep your electrical system in top condition you won't 
need a top of the line expensive battery.
For my car I purchased the cheapest Wal Mart battery. It was the correct 
size of course. So far the battery has performed perfectly! It's in the car 
for two years and eight months now and still running strong. I have the 
original Motorola alternator. If you make sure that there are no drains when 
the car is off and the engine starts easily the battery will last a long 
time. The worst things for the battery is discharging it (something drains 
the battery overnight) and hard starting when the starter is held on for 
longer than should normally be. My car starts instantly and there are no 
drains - I can easily leave it sitting for three months and it will start at 
the first try. I know because I tried it... when I left the US the car sat 
for three months with the battery connected and then it started right up.
What did I do to the car you might ask. Well, clean the grounds, clean the 
positive connections (it's not just the ground connections that corrode), 
clean the alternator mount (the ground from the alt goes through its casing 
and mount), rebuild the power locks controller. That's about it. My door 
locks work, the clock in the center consol is connected and works, the radio 
works and there are no drains.
That's it!

Tom Niemczewski
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl -> www.deloreana.com
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...





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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 12:13:09 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: And for my NEXT problem... :)

 
John...How hot was it in Michigan when you drove it and was your gas tank  
not full?  I had this happen to me in Florida and it turned out to be a  vapor 
lock from the fans blowing the very hot air over the gas tank.  A  simple 
shield in front of the tank fixed it for me.  The shields are  inexpensive and you 
might want to look at one.  Just a suggestion.
 
Roy #0893
 
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/17/2005 11:35:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
warren_at_dml_usadmc.com writes:

Any time  a Delorean 'bucks' the way you describe, there's trouble in the  
tank.  Either the baffle has come loose from the floor of the tank or  
the pick-up hose is broken.  Or maybe you're out of fuel.  Go to  the 
tank throught the spare tire well, remove the pump, and look into the  
hole.  You should see the problem.
Warren at DMC


John  Rydholm wrote:

>> Hey all, been a while. I recently had a complete Valeo  clutch kit 
>> installed on my DeLorean, plus a 12~ something grade shift  linkage 
>> pivot that will (supposedly) never break like my old one did.  She 
>> ran great for about 3 weeks. Then! Suddenly! *dramatic music  here* 
>> The DeLorean started to threaten to stall on me. Now bear in  mind 
>> that I've spent almost $4K on restoring this thing. I told  
>> myself, "Ok, John. You had the main wiring harness redone. You have  
>> new spark plugs, plug wires, cap, & rotor. You have new vacuum  
>> hoses, fuel pump and accumulator." So I figured it couldn't possibly  
>> be the ignition system. It had to be the trans as that's the last  
>> thing that I got worked on. The strange thing is, the car only  
>> threatens to stall when you first accelerate from a dead stop. Say,  
>> at a stop sign or a light. As you go through the first 2 or 3 gears,  
>> the engine sputters and the car will jerk forward repeatedly. But,  
>> when I'm on the freeway or highway in 4-5th gears, doing 50-88mph  
>> (lol), she runs fine! Weird, huh? I've sent it in to the local  
>> repair shop and they should tell me what the new problem is. But  
>> have any of you ever experienced something like this? Such...horror?  
>> Oh the humanity! A non-running DeLorean! 
>> -proceeds to  cry-
>> I'm just kidding
>> ...okay, I'm good now. Hope your day is  better than mine.
>> John Rydholm
>> Romeo,  Michigan



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 13:16:35 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DML 10th anniversary

In a message dated 8/16/2005 11:58:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:
Post 001, 8/16/05??  Is that a Y2K bug?>>

Um, no... must be "oldtimers" disease...   ;-) 

-Wayne


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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