Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2806
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:19 Aug 2005 18:47:48 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Performance Exhaust for Delorean
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Is it possible...replacing fuel line from accumulator to filter
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Are these original seat covers or reproductions? Color doesn't match interior
From: "frenkieboy" <dmc_at_dml_frenkieboy.demon.nl>

4. Re: Squeal, Squeak and Whistle?
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

5. Re: "530-mile" eBay DeLorean
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

6. Re: Performance Exhaust for Delorean
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: best battery to put in
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

8. Re: Stainless Cleaner
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. AW: Re: best battery to put in
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

10. Re: Squeal, Squeak and Whistle?
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

11. AW: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

12. Re: Re: Performance Exhaust for Delorean
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Squeal, Squeak and Whistle Update!
From: "David Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

14. Re: Re: best battery to put in
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

15. Re: Is it possible...replacing fuel line from accumulator to filter
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

16. DeLorean radar detectors
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Engine runs rough after pop & smoke from engine bay
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

18. Re: Re: Performance Exhaust for Delorean
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Re: best battery to put in
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Performance Exhaust for Delorean
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

21. Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

22. RE: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

23. PADMC Back to the Future Screenings -- August 27 & 28th, Oakmont (Pittsburgh), PA
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>

24. Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. AW: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 11:31:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Performance Exhaust for Delorean

... than does not mean that removal of the CAT is
legal.

It is illegal to remove any emissions device from your
car.  Any business that does it risks stiff penalties
from the EPA.

A good explanation of the law from Dynomax (maker of
aftermarket exhaust components)

http://www.dynomax.com/super_install.stm

Or, straight from the EPA:

http://www.epa.gov/air/caa/caa203.txt


On the dynomax page, I was surprised to see:

"The converter be installed in the same location as
the original converter. "

WOW!  That sucks.  So I guess even the currently
available kits WITH catalytic converters are illegal
too??  Maybe the EPA will give us a break with the DMC
because it has to be the worst exhaust system ever
designed.


--- lordshill_at_dml_aol.com wrote:


>> hello..
>>  
>>     I recently had the exhaust changed by a local 
>> shop.  Since NY State does 
>> not require an emissions test for  older than 95
>> vehicles the cat converter 
>> disappeared.  I went with a  flomaster muffler that
>> actually was made for a 
>> Camero.  It sounds  great.  It was right around
>> $100.00.
>>  
>>  
>> Roy  #0893
>>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 19:06:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Is it possible...replacing fuel line from accumulator to filter

Whatever you do you must be ABSOLUTELY SURE that the lines and the
fittings can handle the pressure. The body CAN be lifted. You have to
remove all the body bolts. It is now time to call your favorite
Delorean vendor and order the lines and they can give you the detailed
advice you will need. If you cobble together some hose and some hose
clamps from your local Autozone you will be asking for trouble. This
is one area where you cannot skimp on safety. If you have a large fuel
leak in this area and it gets to the exhaust system just a little
further behind you could have an inferno. Even a small leak can become
a blowtorch and quickly destroy the car. I would not trust the line
you had made. Most shops do not have the proper type fittings.
Although they may look right they may not be correct. In any case you
probably spent more for them to make up the line than the Delorean
vendors would have charged. One thing you are correct about. If you do
not use the right parts changing the accumulator "could" kill you!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>> Well, this accumulator job is about to kill me.  In the process of
>> getting it off, the line that connects to the fuel filter bent close
>> to the pressure fitting.  Getting two pairs of pliers in there to bend
>> it back so the nut would go over the pressure fitting was impossible,
>> so we removed the line altogether.  Getting it out was destroying it
>> anyway, so it got cut into two or three pieces and removed.  Now, I
>> had a new one made today, identical to the original, and getting it in
>> is driving me crazy.  I'd swear that the body needs to be lifted off
>> the frame a bit to get it around the frame and into the fuel
>> accumulator cavity.  Is this even possible, or am I wasting my time? 
>> I tried to have it re-made with a flexible line with the proper
>> fitting on each end, but the hydrolic shop told me they couldn't make
>>









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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 19:49:44 -0000
From: "frenkieboy" <dmc_at_dml_frenkieboy.demon.nl>
Subject: Re: Are these original seat covers or reproductions? Color doesn't match interior

Yep, you're right. That leaves my right-hand-drive counter on the 
total of one !!! Thnx Gus

Regards from the Dutch mountains

Frenkie
#006183
www.delorean.tk

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>> The right-hand-drive DMC is more rare than you think, since this 

car isn't 

>> one, either.  The first picture is flipped.
>> 
>> 
>> Gus Schlachter
>> VIN #4695
>> Austin, TX
>> 
>> 
>> 
>
>>> > I personally don't know the car in question, but a right hand 

drive 

>>> > is very rare. I've only seen one in 15 years, and I live in 

Europe.

>>> > 
>>> > Regards,
>>> > 
>>> > Frenkie
>>> > #006183
>>> > www.delorean.tk
>>> > 
>>
>>>> > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Packodenton_at_dml_a... wrote:
>>>> > > 
>
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DeLorean-Delorean-DMC-12-Delorean-

530-actual-
miles_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ31830QQitemZ4568958232QQrdZ1 

>> 
>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 20:13:04 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Squeal, Squeak and Whistle?

Vacume leak, intake manifold leak or exhaust leak.

Bernie
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>> Last night driving my DeLorean home (engine was still a little 

warm 

>> from earlier) I noticed a whistling type noise.  Kind of like the 
>> whistle you hear when someone driving a diesel truck punches it.  

But 

>> my noise is the opposite of that.  When I let off of the 

accelerator, 

>> it whistles.  When I push the accelerator down, it goes away 

slowly.  

>> No matter what gear I"m in or what speed I'm going, when I let off 

of 

>> it, it whistles.  
>> 
>> This morning when I started up the DeLorean (it was cold), no 
>> whistling.  I had abourt a 14 mile drive to work. With about 4 

miles to 

>> go, there was the whistle again.  When I did get to work, I let 

the car 

>> run, got out and opened up the engine compartment and put my ear 

down 

>> to it.  THe noise is coming from the central area of the engine.  
>> Around the air/fuel mixture unit general area.
>> 
>> Any thoughts?
>> 
>> Thomas "Matt" Williams
>> VIN: 2953







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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 13:32:01 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: "530-mile" eBay DeLorean

The "flipped" picture in the eBay auction (#4568958232) has been bugging 
me...it's easy to mistakenly reverse a piece of film, but most pics 
nowadays are digital, which would need to be flipped intentionally.

If you look closely at the first photo in the auction, the windshield 
header panel is clean stainless.  The rest of the photos show the header 
panel to be painted black, as the cars were originally.

This seller is posting photos from at least two different cars...not a 
good sign.


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, TX



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 20:26:23 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Performance Exhaust for Delorean

Was it set up as a dual outlet or just a single?

Thomas "Matt" Williams
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, lordshill_at_dml_a... wrote:

>> hello..
>>  
>>     I recently had the exhaust changed by a local  shop.  Since NY 

State does 

>> not require an emissions test for  older than 95 vehicles the cat 

converter 

>> disappeared.  I went with a  flomaster muffler that actually was 

made for a 

>> Camero.  It sounds  great.  It was right around $100.00.
>>  
>>  
>> Roy  #0893
>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 20:09:53 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: best battery to put in

When running a high power amp in any car, make sure you put in a 
high capacity capacitor in to handle those power drain problems.  
Cructhfield sells them.  That will prevent your headlights from 
dimming, etc.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kayoong_at_dml_a... wrote:

>> Dear Mark V:
>> 
>> By your comments, I guess I will let PJ Grady recheck my 

DeLorean's 

>> electrical system again for I am due to their shop next week.
>> 
>> In the past, Rob and Pat haven't found anything electrically wrong 

except 

>> with the cooling fan's circuit breakers and the Fanzilla's 

connectors being over 

>> taxed under heavy use over the years.   I have even upgraded the 

Fanzilla 

>> Series 1 to the Series 2 two years ago upon Rob’s suggestion.   

And yes, Pat at PJ 

>> Grady does check all the grounding points on the chassis for 

cleanliness as 

>> to insure a good contact, when my car is at PJ Grady at least once 

if not twice 

>> a year. They know that my DeLorean is daily driven and I would 

take long 

>> trips many times a year exceeding over a 1,000 miles one way.   

They always gave 

>> my DeLorean a good go over and if anything that is not right, it 

gets 

>> corrected, no matter the cost -- electrical, mechanical or other 

wise.

>>  
>> About auto amplifiers.   There are many "so called" high power 

amps on the 

>> market with some operating different or better then others and it 

has been that 

>> way for the last thirty plus years as far as I can remember. 
>> 
>> My experiences with high power amplifiers in my DeLorean are as 

follows; my 

>> first one I had installed was Blaupunkt amp along with a head unit 

and 

>> auxiliary CD changer unit back in the Fall of 1996.  I got rid of 

the whole system 

>> after five years and replaced it with a JL Audio 300/4 amp and 

Eclipse head unit 

>> and a CD changer.   The JL amp was good sounding but the JL amp 

drew too much 

>> power and with the headlights and A/C on, the horns wouldn't 

work.   Also when 

>> the audio system is playing and if I was to flash the high beams, 

the amp 

>> would cut out and come back on.   That was a nuisance, so I 

decided to take the 

>> DeLorean to an authorized JL Audio dealer and installer as to have 

the amp and 

>> the electrical system checked out... They found nothing wrong and 

that the amp 

>> is functioning "normally."   So, about eight months later I had 

the JL amp 

>> remove and replaced it with the Sinfoni120.4x amp.   This amp has 

a higher power 

>> output and it draws less power than the JL amp.   The Sinfoni amps 

is a great 

>> sounding amp and the JL Audio amp now sits in the basement were I 

last left 

>> it some two years ago.   
>> 
>> The alternator was updated, it is a 140 amp from Mr. John Harvey 

some two 

>> years ago.   With ALL the electric components on and while 

creeping in NYC's rush 

>> hour traffic, the electrical demand will swing wildly between the 

battery and 

>> the alternator in order to supply the electrical demand in the 

extreme hot 

>> and the cold seasons.   As I was told, this occuring situation can 

or will cause 

>> an early demise to the battery and or the alternator as well.   I 

believe 

>> this is what is happening.   The bottom line?   Next to the 

DeLorean’s 

>> uniqueness, the sound system is what I value when I am driving it 

especially on long 

>> trips. 
>> 
>> Anyway, maybe you want to take a crack in checking out my 

DeLorean's 

>> electrical system?   I will compensate you for your time.   Maybe 

you may have a 

>> better understanding or have better luck then us?   
>> 
>> Kayo Ong
>> #5508
>> Lic 9D NY
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> In a message dated 8/17/05 7:53:12 PM, dmcvin6683_at_dml_w... writes:
>> 
>> 
>
>>> > I had 3 Big High End Amps in my Mustang plus power windows, A/C 

you

>>> > know the works. I sold it with 98,000 with a battery that was 

well over

>>> > 5 years old and original alternator.
>>> > 
>>> > Oh yeah this was my daily driver.
>>> > 
>>> > Sounds like electrical problems to me.
>>> > 
>>> > Anybody else on this list have big Amplifiers with no battery 

trouble?

>>> > 
>>> > My Delorean i have now has a big ass High End Amplifier in it 

now and

>>> > no battery problems. This Amp has been in my car since i bought 

it in

>>> > 2003.
>>> > 
>>> > Mark V
>>> > 
>>> > 
>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 20:31:46 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Cleaner

Someone also mentioned once about Greased Lightening.

Thomas "Matt" Williams
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> I remember reading a few weeks ago about a stainless
>> steel cleaner that Home Depot was selling that was
>> good to use on D's. The only thing I was able to find
>> _at_dml_ Depot is grill stainless steel cleaner. Being new to
>> owning a D is, will this cleaner work? If not I am
>> open to suggestions. Will regular stainless steel frig
>> and sink cleaner work? Does the stainless on D's have
>> a clear coating?? Thanks.
>> 
>> Joey Morgan
>> Catonsville, MD
>> 
>> #6297
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
>> http://mail.yahoo.com







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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 23:22:48 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Re: best battery to put in


And who or what is gonna charge the capacitor ?
Perpetuum mobile ?

Elvis



When running a high power amp in any car, make sure you put in a 
high capacity capacitor in to handle those power drain problems.  
Cructhfield sells them.  That will prevent your headlights from 
dimming, etc.

Bernie





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 21:31:03 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Squeal, Squeak and Whistle?

Vacume leak, intake manifold leak or exhaust leak.

Bernie
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>> Last night driving my DeLorean home (engine was still a little 

warm 

>> from earlier) I noticed a whistling type noise.  Kind of like the 
>> whistle you hear when someone driving a diesel truck punches it.  

But 

>> my noise is the opposite of that.  When I let off of the 

accelerator, 

>> it whistles.  When I push the accelerator down, it goes away 

slowly.  

>> No matter what gear I"m in or what speed I'm going, when I let off 

of 

>> it, it whistles.  
>> 
>> This morning when I started up the DeLorean (it was cold), no 
>> whistling.  I had abourt a 14 mile drive to work. With about 4 

miles to 

>> go, there was the whistle again.  When I did get to work, I let 

the car 

>> run, got out and opened up the engine compartment and put my ear 

down 

>> to it.  THe noise is coming from the central area of the engine.  
>> Around the air/fuel mixture unit general area.
>> 
>> Any thoughts?
>> 
>> Thomas "Matt" Williams
>> VIN: 2953







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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 23:44:41 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Dani,

is your O2 sensor ok ? you know how it can be tested, right ?

I mean - if the ECU gets no correct informations - how should
it drive the FV correctly ?

When you push the full throttle switch the FV signal is
set to a constant PWM to ensure a rich startup mixture (temp switch
is parallel to it) and also a rich mixture when going at max speed/full
gas.

Of course the ECU could be defect, too.
Or a wire broken ?

Do you have the possibility to swap the ECU ?

Elvis



Betreff: [DML] Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)


Okay finally an update; I just replaced each of these with brand new
equipment: Fuel distributor, CPR/WUR, +4 plugs, 8.5mm wires, Bosch
cap, Bosch rotor, and HP resistor. I've replaced with used
equipment: ignition distributor. I've tested/cleaned: mechanical and
vacuum advance, frequency valve and plug, grounds on both the left
and right side of intake, ground in compartment behind driver's
seat, cold start valve, and the injectors. The problem: my frequency
valve will NOT run continuously no matter what position the CO is
set to; it will not even run constant with the O2 sensor unplugged.
Like this, the car will start up after a nights rest, but warm-up is
rough with lots of black puffs of smoke and rough running until
warm; once warm it will be sluggish accelerating, but runs smooth
and gets me to where I need to go. The ONLY way to get the FV
running constant is through the full throttle switch-I jumped the
switch by putting a wire to both contacts of the full throttle
switch; this is how I've been running the car. With the FV running
constant, the car starts right up after sitting overnight with about
30 seconds of slight rough running-and has the acceleration it
should. Since the FV runs when the switch is tripped it's obvious
that it works and has good connections going to it. What I am
wondering is why it won't run constant otherwise…Any ideas? -----
Dani B. #5003







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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 17:49:45 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Performance Exhaust for Delorean

 
Matt.. It comes as a double.  I noticed a reply regarding it being  illegal 
to remove a cat..I do not know if that applies to NY.  I know I  asked to keep 
the Cat so if anyone asks where it is I can pull it from the trunk  and show 
it to them.  Basicly the mechanics who are inspectors have told me  that if you 
do not need the emissions test then they don't look for the  CAT.
 
Roy  #0893
 
(an old outlaw)
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/18/2005 5:16:18 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:

Was it  set up as a dual outlet or just a single?


 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 18:58:22 -0400
From: "David Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Squeal, Squeak and Whistle Update!

Check the idler pulleys for the air conditioner compressor, they will squeal
when going bad. The water pump will still need to be replaced.

Dave Sontos

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2005 10:52 AM
Subject: [DML] Squeal, Squeak and Whistle Update!



>> I showed what the car was doing to a guy and he said sounds liek the
>> noise is coming from the waterpump area.  But it still kind of sounds
>> like it is coming from under the intake manifold too.  After the car
>> ran for a little bit, we notice engine coolant dripping off of the
>> tranny.  So it running out of the Valley of Death from a leaky hose?







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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 17:22:43 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: best battery to put in

What ever, still sounds like electrical problems to me. Battery's 
should last longer than that. I never heard of any car going through 
battery's as fast as you are going through them.

Mark V



On Aug 18, 2005, at 3:16 AM, kayoong_at_dml_aol.com wrote:


>> Dear Mark V:
>>
>> By your comments, I guess I will let PJ Grady recheck my DeLorean's
>> electrical system again for I am due to their shop next week.
>>
>> In the past, Rob and Pat haven't found anything electrically wrong 
>> except
>> with the cooling fan's circuit breakers and the Fanzilla's connectors 
>> being over
>> taxed under heavy use over the years.   I have even upgraded the 
>> Fanzilla
>> Series 1 to the Series 2 two years ago upon Rob’s suggestion.   And 
>> yes, Pat at PJ
>> Grady does check all the grounding points on the chassis for 
>> cleanliness as
>> to insure a good contact, when my car is at PJ Grady at least once if 
>> not twice
>> a year. They know that my DeLorean is daily driven and I would take 
>> long
>> trips many times a year exceeding over a 1,000 miles one way.   They 
>> always gave
>> my DeLorean a good go over and if anything that is not right, it gets
>> corrected, no matter the cost -- electrical, mechanical or other wise.
>>
>> About auto amplifiers.   There are many "so called" high power amps on 
>> the
>> market with some operating different or better then others and it has 
>> been that
>> way for the last thirty plus years as far as I can remember.
>>
>> My experiences with high power amplifiers in my DeLorean are as 
>> follows; my
>> first one I had installed was Blaupunkt amp along with a head unit and
>> auxiliary CD changer unit back in the Fall of 1996.  I got rid of the 
>> whole system
>> after five years and replaced it with a JL Audio 300/4 amp and Eclipse 
>> head unit
>> and a CD changer.   The JL amp was good sounding but the JL amp drew 
>> too much
>> power and with the headlights and A/C on, the horns wouldn't work.   
>> Also when
>> the audio system is playing and if I was to flash the high beams, the 
>> amp
>> would cut out and come back on.   That was a nuisance, so I decided to 
>> take the
>> DeLorean to an authorized JL Audio dealer and installer as to have the 
>> amp and
>> the electrical system checked out... They found nothing wrong and that 
>> the amp
>> is functioning "normally."   So, about eight months later I had the JL 
>> amp
>> remove and replaced it with the Sinfoni120.4x amp.   This amp has a 
>> higher power
>> output and it draws less power than the JL amp.   The Sinfoni amps is 
>> a great
>> sounding amp and the JL Audio amp now sits in the basement were I last 
>> left
>> it some two years ago.
>>
>> The alternator was updated, it is a 140 amp from Mr. John Harvey some 
>> two
>> years ago.   With ALL the electric components on and while creeping in 
>> NYC's rush
>> hour traffic, the electrical demand will swing wildly between the 
>> battery and
>> the alternator in order to supply the electrical demand in the extreme 
>> hot
>> and the cold seasons.   As I was told, this occuring situation can or 
>> will cause
>> an early demise to the battery and or the alternator as well.   I 
>> believe
>> this is what is happening.   The bottom line?   Next to the DeLorean’s
>> uniqueness, the sound system is what I value when I am driving it 
>> especially on long
>> trips.
>>
>> Anyway, maybe you want to take a crack in checking out my DeLorean's
>> electrical system?   I will compensate you for your time.   Maybe you 
>> may have a
>> better understanding or have better luck then us?
>>
>> Kayo Ong
>> #5508
>> Lic 9D NY
>>
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 8/17/05 7:53:12 PM, dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com writes:
>>
>>
>
>>>> I had 3 Big High End Amps in my Mustang plus power windows, A/C you
>>>> know the works. I sold it with 98,000 with a battery that was well 
>>>> over
>>>> 5 years old and original alternator.
>>>>
>>>> Oh yeah this was my daily driver.
>>>>
>>>> Sounds like electrical problems to me.
>>>>
>>>> Anybody else on this list have big Amplifiers with no battery trouble?
>>>>
>>>> My Delorean i have now has a big ass High End Amplifier in it now and
>>>> no battery problems. This Amp has been in my car since i bought it in
>>>> 2003.
>>>>
>>>> Mark V
>>>>
>>>>
>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 00:17:52 -0000
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Is it possible...replacing fuel line from accumulator to filter

I had a professional hydraulic shop make the line, and its probably
better made than whatever the original line was.  They replicated
every bend and it looks OEM, but with brand new fittings.  And it was
half of what one from a vendor would be.  They do this everyday for
cars and machinery and have been in business for over 50  years, so I
trust their parts and expertise.  I was just wondering if its possible
to get the steel tube line in without lifting the body, but after
trying again my guess is no.  I might go back and see if they can make
me something else, and if I can re-route it, and allow for the entire
accumulator to be dropped down to remove the hoses next time I have to
replace it.  I'm thinking a high pressure stainless steel braided hose
with the proper fittings might be a good replacement for that metal
line.  

Thanks for the advice David, after thinking about it, I agree that
clamping a hose on what I would have chopped up is a bad idea.  I'll
let the pros try to make me something bulletproof, so I never have to
do this again (the hose at least, hopefully the accumulator lasts 5+
years.) 

-Patrick C.
1880

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:

>> Whatever you do you must be ABSOLUTELY SURE that the lines and the
>> fittings can handle the pressure. The body CAN be lifted. You have to
>> remove all the body bolts. It is now time to call your favorite
>> Delorean vendor and order the lines and they can give you the detailed
>> advice you will need. If you cobble together some hose and some hose
>> clamps from your local Autozone you will be asking for trouble. This
>> is one area where you cannot skimp on safety. If you have a large fuel
>> leak in this area and it gets to the exhaust system just a little
>> further behind you could have an inferno. Even a small leak can become
>> a blowtorch and quickly destroy the car. I would not trust the line
>> you had made. Most shops do not have the proper type fittings.
>> Although they may look right they may not be correct. In any case you
>> probably spent more for them to make up the line than the Delorean
>> vendors would have charged. One thing you are correct about. If you do
>> not use the right parts changing the accumulator "could" kill you!
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>
>>> > Well, this accumulator job is about to kill me.  In the process of
>>> > getting it off, the line that connects to the fuel filter bent close
>>> > to the pressure fitting.  Getting two pairs of pliers in there to bend
>>> > it back so the nut would go over the pressure fitting was impossible,
>>> > so we removed the line altogether.  Getting it out was destroying it
>>> > anyway, so it got cut into two or three pieces and removed.  Now, I
>>> > had a new one made today, identical to the original, and getting it in
>>> > is driving me crazy.  I'd swear that the body needs to be lifted off
>>> > the frame a bit to get it around the frame and into the fuel
>>> > accumulator cavity.  Is this even possible, or am I wasting my time? 
>>> > I tried to have it re-made with a flexible line with the proper
>>> > fitting on each end, but the hydrolic shop told me they couldn't make
>>> >








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 23:48:23 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean radar detectors


Hello:
 
I'm running with a concealed Valentine One in my BMW. Does anyone have  any 
recommendations for a DeLorean radar system?
I saw a DMC in Myrtle Beach, Don Smith's car from the DeLorean One  
commercial, had the front and rear remote radar system. I forgot the name and  model 
number.  If you have any experience with Radar detectors' I would  sincerely 
like to read your thoughts and opinions.
 
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
 
NOTE:   THIS DOCUMENT MAY CONTAIN CONFIDENTIAL AND NONPUBLIC INFORMATION.  IT 
IS  INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL(S) OR ENTITY(IES) NAMED 
ABOVE, AND  OTHERS SPECIFICALLY AUTHORIZED TO RECEIVE IT.  If you are not the 
intended  recipient of this document, you are notified that any review, 
dissemination,  distribution or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have 
 received this communication in error, please notify me immediately by return 
 email, delete the electronic message and destroy any printed copies.  Thank  
you for your cooperation.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 02:13:38 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine runs rough after pop & smoke from engine bay

If you had a backfire in the intake, pressure from the explosion 
could have dislodged several items including the idle motor tube, 
several vacuum lines, intake seals, etc. or even a fuel injector.

I would suspect vacuum lines first.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "deepdmc" <deepdmc12_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>> OK here is what happened. Drove home from work and the car was 

running 

>> fine. Went to drive the car about 40 minutes later. Turned the key 

on 

>> for a few seconds to let the fuel pump do its thing, then went to 
>> crank it. The engine started right up as usual, but then as soon 

as I 

>> let off the starter I heard a pop come from the engine bay. I 

looked 

>> in the rear view mirror just in time to see a pretty hefty puff of 
>> smoke. It looked like it was coming from the drivers side of the 
>> engine bay towards the back of the bay near the light switch & 
>> resistor area. The car starts and seems to run fine. But now the 

idle 

>> is really rough, it vibrates the whole car. My first assumption 

was 

>> that the relay on the back wall had popped, I replaced it but it 

still 

>> runs rough. Any one have any ideas? What should I check first?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Justin Alivandi
>> 16579







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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 20:37:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Performance Exhaust for Delorean

It is illegal to remove the CAT at the FEDERAL level. 


What you were told is because you don't need an
emissions test they will not CATCH you without it.. 
Just because you do something that your unlikely to
get in trouble for does not make it "legal".

However, your mechanic broke the law by removing it.

--- lordshill_at_dml_aol.com wrote:


>>  
>> Matt.. It comes as a double.  I noticed a reply
>> regarding it being  illegal 
>> to remove a cat..I do not know if that applies to
>> NY.  I know I  asked to keep 
>> the Cat so if anyone asks where it is I can pull it
>> from the trunk  and show 
>> it to them.  Basicly the mechanics who are
>> inspectors have told me  that if you 
>> do not need the emissions test then they don't look
>> for the  CAT.
>>  
>> Roy  #0893
>>  
>> (an old outlaw)



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 23:36:43 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: best battery to put in

Bernie:

Been there, done that with the JL Audio amp..... I had it removed upon 
installation of the Sinfoni amp.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic. 9D NY


In a message dated 8/18/05 5:15:43 PM, bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net writes:



>> When running a high power amp in any car, make sure you put in a
>> high capacity capacitor in to handle those power drain problems. 
>> Cructhfield sells them.  That will prevent your headlights from
>> dimming, etc.
>> 
>> Bernie
>> 
>> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 04:08:20 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Performance Exhaust for Delorean

Read the laws-removal of catalytic converters is illegal under 
federal law, and in some states may be illegal under state law. 
Illegal in NY- my old shop I used to go to for inspection here 
upstate won't pass anyone whose car lacks a catalytic when it 
originally came with one. Beware; the probe up the exhaust pipe is 
soon to hit upstate in the next few years…-----Dani B. #5003




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, lordshill_at_dml_a... wrote:

>>  
>> Matt.. It comes as a double.  I noticed a reply regarding it 

being  illegal 

>> to remove a cat..I do not know if that applies to NY.  I know I  

asked to keep 

>> the Cat so if anyone asks where it is I can pull it from the 

trunk  and show 

>> it to them.  Basicly the mechanics who are inspectors have told 

me  that if you 

>> do not need the emissions test then they don't look for the  CAT.
>>  
>> Roy  #0893
>>  
>> (an old outlaw)
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> In a message dated 8/18/2005 5:16:18 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
>> jeepno1_397_at_dml_h... writes:
>> 
>> Was it  set up as a dual outlet or just a single?
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 04:12:13 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

I just got my current ECU from DMCH just a few months ago, I'm 
pretty sure it isn't defective…is there any way to test the 
frequency valve part of it? How do I test the O2 sensor? When I 
changed the plate that mounts all the connections and coil on the 
engine bay bulkhead, I noticed wires cut and spliced into different 
wires [behind the plate inside the pontoon]; I noticed in particular 
one of the wires had a capacitor spliced in, was this a recall or 
update, or someone else's mess? It wasn't any of the wires from the 
FV plug though…-----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> 
wrote:

>> Dani,
>> 
>> is your O2 sensor ok ? you know how it can be tested, right ?
>> 
>> I mean - if the ECU gets no correct informations - how should
>> it drive the FV correctly ?
>> 
>> When you push the full throttle switch the FV signal is
>> set to a constant PWM to ensure a rich startup mixture (temp switch
>> is parallel to it) and also a rich mixture when going at max 

speed/full

>> gas.
>> 
>> Of course the ECU could be defect, too.
>> Or a wire broken ?
>> 
>> Do you have the possibility to swap the ECU ?
>> 
>> Elvis
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Betreff: [DML] Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor 

positioning)

>> 
>> 
>> Okay finally an update; I just replaced each of these with brand 

new

>> equipment: Fuel distributor, CPR/WUR, +4 plugs, 8.5mm wires, Bosch
>> cap, Bosch rotor, and HP resistor. I've replaced with used
>> equipment: ignition distributor. I've tested/cleaned: mechanical 

and

>> vacuum advance, frequency valve and plug, grounds on both the left
>> and right side of intake, ground in compartment behind driver's
>> seat, cold start valve, and the injectors. The problem: my 

frequency

>> valve will NOT run continuously no matter what position the CO is
>> set to; it will not even run constant with the O2 sensor unplugged.
>> Like this, the car will start up after a nights rest, but warm-up 

is

>> rough with lots of black puffs of smoke and rough running until
>> warm; once warm it will be sluggish accelerating, but runs smooth
>> and gets me to where I need to go. The ONLY way to get the FV
>> running constant is through the full throttle switch-I jumped the
>> switch by putting a wire to both contacts of the full throttle
>> switch; this is how I've been running the car. With the FV running
>> constant, the car starts right up after sitting overnight with 

about

>> 30 seconds of slight rough running-and has the acceleration it
>> should. Since the FV runs when the switch is tripped it's obvious
>> that it works and has good connections going to it. What I am
>> wondering is why it won't run constant otherwise…Any ideas? -----
>> Dani B. #5003








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 01:59:01 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Wow.  That is the EXACT same problem I had with a customer car up here in 
NC.  EXACT SAME.

Unfortunately I got it running the day before he picked up the car and we 
were never able to determine the cause.  We used the EXACT same solution and 
the car runs perfect just as yours does.  With the FV NOT buzzing it ran 
crappy.  We jumped the Full Throttle Switch and it ran perfect and he drove 
it home with no problems whatsoever.

This may be some kind of new anomaly.  I wish I had more time with that 
particular car as it woulda been nice to figure that one out.

Jeff in NC



>>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
>>Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 02:48:12 -0000
>>
>>Okay finally an update; I just replaced each of these with brand new
>>equipment: Fuel distributor, CPR/WUR, +4 plugs, 8.5mm wires, Bosch
>>cap, Bosch rotor, and HP resistor. I've replaced with used
>>equipment: ignition distributor. I've tested/cleaned: mechanical and
>>vacuum advance, frequency valve and plug, grounds on both the left
>>and right side of intake, ground in compartment behind driver's
>>seat, cold start valve, and the injectors. The problem: my frequency
>>valve will NOT run continuously no matter what position the CO is
>>set to; it will not even run constant with the O2 sensor unplugged.
>>Like this, the car will start up after a nights rest, but warm-up is
>>rough with lots of black puffs of smoke and rough running until
>>warm; once warm it will be sluggish accelerating, but runs smooth
>>and gets me to where I need to go. The ONLY way to get the FV
>>running constant is through the full throttle switch-I jumped the
>>switch by putting a wire to both contacts of the full throttle
>>switch; this is how I've been running the car. With the FV running
>>constant, the car starts right up after sitting overnight with about
>>30 seconds of slight rough running-and has the acceleration it
>>should. Since the FV runs when the switch is tripped it's obvious
>>that it works and has good connections going to it. What I am
>>wondering is why it won't run constant otherwise…Any ideas? -----
>>Dani B. #5003
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 09:58:36 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
Subject: PADMC Back to the Future Screenings -- August 27 & 28th, Oakmont (Pittsburgh), PA

Hi All,

 

The Oaks Theater (http://www.theoakstheater.com
<http://www.theoakstheater.com/> ) in Oakmont (Pittsburgh), PA will be
hosting special late screenings of Back to the Future on August 27th and
28th.  The owners of the theater have arranged special parking and free
admission for any and all DeLorean owners who wish to attend.  One
ticket holder at each show wins an authentic radioactive plutonium
trailer placard!  Additional prizes provided by www.bttf.com
<http://www.bttf.com/> .

 

Several PADMC members will be attending with their DeLoreans, and they
are expecting a 300+ audience to turn out for each show.  If you would
like to attend, please RSVP by sending me a private email: dave.stragand
-(at)- forwardlook.net.  Please contact me if you have any questions.

 

We hope to see you there!

 

-Dave



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 14:25:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

You certainly have a lot of trouble with this car! I remember when you
first started posting, all the problems you had with the fuel system.
Anyway, if you get out your Workshop Manual you will find in the
Lambda section under the specs different things to do with the O2
sensor wire (appling a voltage, grounding it, and leaving it loose),
and closing the WOT switch. You read the output with a dwell meter at
the diagnostic plug and you should get readings close to what is in
the manual. Keep in mind that you are reading an output directly from
the ECU, not what is going to the FV. You might have to check the
wiring from the ECU to the FV. A bad connection can cause the FV to
not function. The ECU also has 2 ground connections that run through
the bulkhead connectors by the ignition coil. You MUST have BOTH
grounds at the ECU plug for the ECU to function. One of these grounds
is the return path for the O2 sensor. If the ECU isn't properly
grounded it cannot read the O2 sensor with only 1 wire! It is not
normal for wires to be chopped up in there. This could be part of a
missing ground circuit which would make the ECU look bad. I would open
the plug up at the ECU and check out each wire all the way. In any
case you have to troubleshoot EVERYTHING before you condemn the ECU
unless you have a known good one to substitute. The Lambda ECU is not
a high failure item. I would suspect a wiring problem or a dead O2
sensor first. Chances are that if the ECU can work by holding the WOT
switch the ECU is OK (the WOT switch and wiring too!).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> I just got my current ECU from DMCH just a few months ago, I'm 
>> pretty sure it isn't defective…is there any way to test the 
>> frequency valve part of it? How do I test the O2 sensor? When I 
>> changed the plate that mounts all the connections and coil on the 
>> engine bay bulkhead, I noticed wires cut and spliced into different 
>> wires [behind the plate inside the pontoon]; I noticed in particular 
>> one of the wires had a capacitor spliced in, was this a recall or 
>> 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 17:24:28 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Here are some old description that I have from the DML.
Checking and reading old mails can be very helpfull along with
google...O2 sensors are very common and the all work the same way...



Using a dwell meter to adjust your fuel idle mixture.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----

Attach the dwell meter to the diagnostic plug near the firewall on the
engine left side.
The dwell meter connection is the upper right corner pin on the diagnostic
plug. Start
the car. The dwell meter should read steady with a cold engine. After a
couple of minutes
 the engine should warm and the Oxygen Sensor will begin sending a current
to the ECU
computer. When the ECU sees this output from the Oxygen Sensor it will begin
sending
signals to the Frequency Valve to regulate the fuel mixture. The dwell meter
should now
begin to pulsate in a range of 15-20 degrees. Set the dwell meter to the
four-cylinder
range and adjust the CO idle mixture screw to an average reading of 45
degrees. What you
are actually reading is the duty cycle of the Frequency Valve. The fact that
the dwell
meter begins pulsating means the ECU is working. If the ECU fails to work
check the ground
 connections. Run a separate ground wire from the engine block to the ECU
mounting bracket
 ground screw. Redo the ECU test. Reference the Fuel, Emission and Exhaust
System section
in the repair manual section D:04:14.


Checking the operation of the oxygen sensor.:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----

Place a jack under the rear frame and raise the rear of the vehicle enough
so you can
reach into the left-hand wheel well and get at the connector for the oxygen
sensor.
Pull back the rubber boot covering the connector and expose the connection.
(Do Not unplug
 the sensor at this time) Set your voltmeter on a millivolt scale and attach
the positive
lead to the sensor. Attach your negative probe to a suitable ground. Start
the car and
observe the voltmeter. The voltmeter should rise to between 400 and 600
milliamps as the
engine warms up.



-> of course the author meant 400 to 600 millivolts, not milliamps.
the sensor needs to be hot to work correctly. Also it won't change very much
if the mixture is already set way too rich or too lean.

Also - being pretty sure that something isn't defective doesn't help at all.
You need to know that is ok !
How old is the lambda sensor ? can you get it out ?
I think it is something like 20 bucks for a new one....problem might be
getting
the old one out.

Elvis




I just got my current ECU from DMCH just a few months ago, I'm
pretty sure it isn't defective…is there any way to test the
frequency valve part of it? How do I test the O2 sensor? When I
changed the plate that mounts all the connections and coil on the
engine bay bulkhead, I noticed wires cut and spliced into different
wires [behind the plate inside the pontoon]; I noticed in particular
one of the wires had a capacitor spliced in, was this a recall or
update, or someone else's mess? It wasn't any of the wires from the
FV plug though…-----Dani B. #5003






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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