Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2824
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:28 Aug 2005 21:00:20 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Window Sticker
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>

2. Lake Mirror Classic Auto Festival
From: "plutonimicx" <plutonimicx_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Not seeing the forest for the trees...(brakes)
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

4. Blowing fuses with LEDs.
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>

5. Headlights staying on.
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>

6. Re: Radio-control Delorean (not BTF)?
From: "Tiffany" <bck2thefuture88_at_dml_netscape.net>

7. Re: New Delorean Website with BTTF4
From: "Tiffany" <bck2thefuture88_at_dml_netscape.net>

8. Re: Rough running
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

9. Re: emergency brake pads cross ref?
From: Stephen Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

10. Anyone got anything clever?
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. LED's blowing fuses
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 10:29:24 -0400
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>
Subject: RE: Window Sticker

Just open it in Photo shop or another editing package and you can change
anything on it.

Jack
10002, 20069

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of John Poland
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 12:17 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Window Sticker

I've seen a .pdf version of a blank window sticker that says to use it 
to make a reproduction of your original sticker. I tried to edit the 
file but it is password protected.  Does anyone out there know the 
password?
John
5935






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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 14:58:08 -0000
From: "plutonimicx" <plutonimicx_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Lake Mirror Classic Auto Festival

Anyone planning on going to the event? You can find more information 
about it at http://lakemirrorclassic.com/content/






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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 15:45:06 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Not seeing the forest for the trees...(brakes)

My car has always had a minor pulsation in the brake pedal ever since 
I began driving the car on a regular basis. That's about two years. It 
seemed to come and go depending on the driving attitude of the car 
(turning, hills, etc) though I now suspect that's my imagination.

I've been so focused on the factory recal that talked about the front 
suspension causing this that I overlooked the obvious; a warped rotor.

I also realized I was a dunce for thinking that it probably wasn't 
warped because I had the rotor turned twice. You can't straighten a 
warped rotor by shaving it. Lately it had gotten worse ,pulling hard 
to the left. That's what prompted me to replace the rotor finally.

After replacing it this morning, I have smooth, quiet stops at last.

Just an FYI.

Rich A.
#5335






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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 09:35:40 -0700
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Blowing fuses with LEDs.

Josh,  

Blowing fuses with the LEDS in place can occur for either of two reasons. 

First reason is that the LEDs are polarized.  Remove all and replace one at a time and try it out.  You'll find that when you encounter one that blows the fuse, remove it and rotate it 180 degrees and reinsert.  If you look at superbriteleds.com site, you notice a note that says something about some models being AC/DC and others don't mention it.  You can determine the polarity before hand by powering the LED independently with a 12V source.  Put a 100 ohm resistor in line with the LED so that with the wrong polarity, the LED will not present a short to the battery.  LEDs are diodes, i.e., they conduct with one polarity of orientation, and radiate light with the other.  For the LEDS which go into the warning light socket, polarity counts.  It will either light up or not.  

Second reason.  Look at the base of the LED and the socket.  I found that with the extremely small LEDS such as those used for the cigarette lighter and lamp at the center of the two light switches, that wires come out is such a way that they are bent to both sides of the base.  The socket is designed for a lamp with the wire coming out one side.  Clever cutting of the wires on the base of the LED will climate this problem.  Incidentally, use blue LEDS in the two light switch sockets...this is the color of the lens at the front of the switch.  It will give the best illumination.  

I've found it handy to have a small 12V Lead Acid battery for testing the LEDS and a lot of other circuits.  These can be obtained from many sources.  Even a motorcycle battery would do.  A car battery charger will work to recharge the battery.  It can even be recharged by the car by plugging into the cigarette lighter socket.  Again, be aware of the polarity.  Reversing the polarity and trying to charge a battery can get quite exciting!!

Al Roberts
twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net
#4649/#16049

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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 09:41:38 -0700
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Headlights staying on.

Dave.

Sounds like your relays are sticking on.  Look up the two relays (low beam relay and high beam relay) and remove them both.  This will act as a good central point for trouble-shooting the problem.  It the headlights do not go on at all then you can measure at the sockets for the two relays to see if power is getting to them under the appropriate conditions (headlights on, high beam or low beam).  Then try inserting relays, one at a time in the appropriate socket, Look for turn on for headlights, etc.

Al
Al Roberts
twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net
#4649/#16049

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 16:42:17 -0000
From: "Tiffany" <bck2thefuture88_at_dml_netscape.net>
Subject: Re: Radio-control Delorean (not BTF)?

Not too long ago I made an r/c car out of a Delorean sunstar model (1/18th scale). It works 
really well, there are pictures at my site www.thinkstainless.com under the portfolio section.

-Tiffany Olejnik
vin#3691

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ctdmc83" <nmastrocinque_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> Hello Everyone,
>> My son is looking for a radio-control version of
>> his Sunstar Delorean.  I've checked eBay repeatedly,
>> but everything I've seen is one of the BTTF cars.
>> Does anyone know where I can find a NON-BTTF radio
>> control Delorean (preferably 1:18 scale)?
>> Thanks,  CTDMC83







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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 16:50:11 -0000
From: "Tiffany" <bck2thefuture88_at_dml_netscape.net>
Subject: Re: New Delorean Website with BTTF4

( please direct any response to this off list. Moderator )

I recently uploaded my ThinkStainless Designs website-- http://www.thinkstainless.com 
advertising my website design company. It includes examples of websites created by me, 
random graphic design work, and photos from Delorean events. Please check it out and let 
me know what you think!

-Tiffany Olejnik
vin#3691
http://www.thinkstainless.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> www.thinkstainless.com








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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 17:15:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Rough running

Not knowing exactly what you did there are many things that could have
gone wrong. Without tearing it all apart there are some simple,
external checks that can be done to see it it is assembled correctly.
Do a compression test. This will tell you if the timing of the
crankshaft and camshafts are close and you don't have any cracked
piston rings, misadjusted valves, etc. Next, reinstall the
distributer. It is CRITICAL that you have the #1 cylinder at TDC just
before the combustion stroke at the same time the distributer is
pointing at the #1 spark plug. On a Delorean the cylinders are NOT
equaly spaced on the distributer cap. The timing is asymetrical and
You MUST fire the #1 cyl position of the cap at the #1 cylinder.
Timing is 13 degrees. You might also verify your timing marks. Get the
#1 cyl to TDC and make sure your timing marks line up. Use chalk or
red paint to make them easy to see. Use the Workshop Manual to see
where #1 cylinder is and the correct firing order and numbering plan.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "lingolor" <rlingo_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>> Ok guys.  I have already searched the archives and had no luck 
>> finding the right answers to my problem. So now I'm asking for yalls 
>> help with my cars rough running engine.
>> 
>> I just refinished rebuilding my engine.  I am 100% positive my timing 
>> chains are in the correct position on the cams and crankshaft because 
>> I followed the directions in the shop manual.  So that's not a 
>> problem..  I also set the distributor cap timing following the 
>> instructions from the shop manual.  Using a timming light, I have 
>> adjusted the timing between 12 and 0 degrees TDC for the #1 cylinder 
>> 








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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 12:36:28 -0500
From: Stephen Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: emergency brake pads cross ref?

John,

I just replaced my e-brake pads with a set from DMCH:

   http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPage.asp?PageID=72

Perfect fit and only $35.

When I said I couldn't find a cross-ref, I didn't mean to imply that 
one did not exist; they're just not carried by the local Autozone.


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin. TX


On Aug 27, 2005, at 10:05 PM, John Hervey wrote:


>> The parking brake pads are made by Mintex out of England and besides 
>> me I
>> don't know anyone stocking them...






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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 19:01:08 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Anyone got anything clever?

I was just wondering today...  We all get asked the same questions and hear the same 
BTTF jokes day in and day out.  And it seems that everyone who gives me the old 
classic "So, where's the flux capasitor?" joke thinks they are the most clever person in 
the world.  Like I've never heard it.  Anyways, does anyone have any funny or witty 
responses they give out whenever asked these types of questions or gets these types 
of comments?  I think it would be interesting to find out what some of you come up 
with as witty retorts.
Corey
2423








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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 14:09:31 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: LED's blowing fuses

 
 
Josh,
 
Something is shorting out.
 
DO NOT use a larger fuse.  Find the short!
 
Take out all the bulbs and see if the fuse blows. The replace them one at a  
time.
 
Fuse 12 has power on all the time so I'm not sure why it's blowing when you  
press the headlight switch.
 
I bet if you recheck your work and replace the LEDs one by one you'll find  
the answer.
 
D & 6530 (w/2700)
 
 

Message: 21
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 05:08:56 -0000
From: "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: LED's blowing fuses

This doesnt  sound right to me but every since I upgraded my DMC's door 
bulbs to LEDs and  edge markers to LEDs my #12 10AMP fuse controlling 
the door lighting gets  blown every time I press the headlight switch 
into position 1 were it turns  on interior and front signal lights. 

anyone else have this problem ? or  any suggestions. clearly im going 
to try uping the #12 slot to a 15 or 20 if  it keeps blowing everytime 
the door lights are on with the side marker  lights.

~ Josh Tidwell
04463



 
Thank  you,

Dave



"Just Say  NO, to the COUCH POTATO!"


To see how go to _www.tvpedaler.com_ (http://www.tvpedaler.com/)   



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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