Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2833
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:1 Sep 2005 20:12:06 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Rough running (throttle cable)
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

2. Re: Window fogging up in rain...solutions?
From: Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. RE: DMC from the bttf films on Craigslist?
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

4. At the pump today..
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

5. Re: Fuel vapor lock
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

6. Re: Rough running
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. RE: Window fogging up in rain...solutions?
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

8. RE: New Owner, few questions
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Re: Delorean mysteriously died
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. RE: Headlight Saver
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Running light problem
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

12. RE: Delorean mysteriously died
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. Re: Headlight Saver
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Re: Headlight Saver (and Stop Lamps!)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

15. RE: Headlight Saver
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>

16. Hurricane Katrina and the Mueller's
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

17. Re: Window fogging up in rain...solutions?
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

18. Re: Window fogging up in rain...solutions?
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

19. Re: Headlight Saver
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: At the pump today..
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Re: Delorean mysteriously died
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

22. Re: At the pump today..
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

23. Re: Delorean mysteriously died
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. AW: Delorean mysteriously died
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

25. Re: Delorean mysteriously died
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 01:14:33 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Rough running (throttle cable)

The wire just slides right in buddy.  Don't forget to grease it a little 
first!

Jeff in NC



>>From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
>>Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Rough running (throttle cable)
>>
>>I'm going to replace the wire and not the tube.





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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 18:22:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Window fogging up in rain...solutions?

There is one product that I use on the windows in my
camaro to prevent my windows from getting fogged
up...I think it is called fog-x, its maid by the
makers of rain-x and works really well.
I was having problems about six months ago with fog at
night and early in the morning, so I went to AutoZone
and got a bottle of this stuff(its also available in
wipes), I followed the directions and I haven't even
needed to use my defrost since, my windows are as
clear at night as they are in the day. It cant be used
on window tinting. The price was less than $4, and I
would have been willing to pay more because it was
worth it. It says to recoat the windows every so
often, but I havent needed to yet:)
Hope this helps.
-Jonathan
 




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 21:55:32 -0400
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: RE: DMC from the bttf films on Craigslist?

I e-mailed the guy asking for more info...his limited knowledge means he is
either asking too much, or it is a scam. 

-----Original Message-----
From: sweitzel_2000
Subject: [DML] DMC from the bttf films on Craigslist?

http://www.craigslist.org/nby/car/92520438.html

I wonder if this is legit.....




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 21:59:41 -0400
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: At the pump today..

So while I was getting irate today about Gas stations taking advantage of
customers by jacking up prices 30-50 cents overnight (regardless if they got
a fill or not) I had an attendant ask me a unique question that I have never
been asked before....
 
Without any prior questions or discussion about my DMC, he asked "where is
the gas tank if the engine is in back, and trunk in front?"   I explained
the layout of the car to him, but was taken off guard.  I have never been
asked that question, and if I ever expected to have been, I doubted it would
be the first thing out of the person's mouth about the car!
 
Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 22:00:18 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel vapor lock

DMCVIN6683 wrote:


>>Can our Deloreans experience fuel vapor lock? I have been told it could
>>not happen.
>>
>>Mark V
>>
>>
>>

It does happen, often.  It's actually the reason for hot start problems
due to failing accumulators. The sole purpose of the accumulator in the
fuel system is to keep pressure on the fuel distrubutor so vapor lock
won't happen.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 21:32:43 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rough running

There are a couple of easy places to tie into the intake, one of which is on 
the end of the driver's side intake runner (on the end closest to the front 
of the car. There you will find a barb used as the vacuum source that feeds 
the three-port vacuum switch under tha intake manifold. If you only wish toi 
measure the vacuum at idle you can disconnect the vacuum line that goes to 
the three port switch and hook the gauge up to the barb.


>>  Be careful not to drop the end of the disconnected vacuum line as it can 
>>easilt drop down between the engine and the firewall and can then be hard 
>>to find again. <


If you want to be able to rev the car and still have advance work properly 
while doing so, which is what I recommend as it is important to get an 
understanding of what the vacuum is doing as the car accelerates, get a 
short length of vacuum line and a vacuum tee of the correct size, and "tee" 
the gauge in at the same location.

-Joe



>>From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
>>Subject: Re: [DML] Rough running
>>I would confirm this by
>>hooking up a vacuum gauge. You should see at least 18" at idle and a lot of
>>PRVs pull 22".>>
>>
>>Where would you place it for the test?
>>Wayne
>>vin 11174






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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 19:40:56 -0700
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Window fogging up in rain...solutions?

In my experience, most modern cars are designed to run the A/C in the
Defrost/Defog modes.  This does two things.  It dehumidifies the air before
it is heated and sent to the windshield, and it helps to ensure that the A/C
is run occasionally throughout the year (keeps the seals from drying out,
etc). Without the A/C on, the warmed moist air actually fogs up the window
more - at least until the glass gets warm enough to reduce the fogging.

According the vendors I contacted, some DeLorean Mode Switches are designed
to do this, and some are not. It may have been the later models ('83s ???)
that ran the A/C in the Defrost/Defog mode. I tried for a couple of months
to get one of these elusive switches from the vendors, and finally gave up.

Now I just run in the Bi-Level mode - which isn't nearly as good at
defrosting/defogging.

If anyone can figure out how to modify a mode switch (or the connections /
wiring) to get the A/C to run automatically when the Mode Switch is in the
Defrost position, please let us know. 

Thanks

Gary
IN2TIME





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 22:19:53 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: New Owner, few questions

Daniel, 
Answer to your first question is yes, The switches are dirty and should be
fine. I can't believe they gave it to you that way. If you will send them to
me I'll clean them free.

2nd, The idle seeking is normally an adjustment. There is a procedure for
doing that. Email me off line and I can go over it with you.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

    

-----Original Message-----
From:
Daniel
Subject: [DML] New Owner, few questions

Well after 9 years as a member of the DML I finally became an owner. I
purchased vin 4160 from DMC Texas last week. It is a very clean
DeLorean with 3000 original miles. I have two questions to throw out
to the group in the hope I dont have to scratch my head anymore...

First I noticed that both windows sometimes go down but wont go up.
It's only after I jiggle the switch or rapidly press it will it
function. Is this as simple as a dirty switch contact?

Second, when the car is idle I notice the rpm's go up and down about
300 revolutions making a fluctuating engine rev sound as if I was
tapping on the gas pedal. Is this normal?

Thanks in advance for all the help!

-Danny





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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 04:11:56 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean mysteriously died

Well I'd say you've got a bad connection in one of the bulkhead 
connections. I have a dremel with a bit that looks like a drill bit, 
but has teeth all around and is used for grinding. I turn the Dremel 
on low, and grind out all the connections so I see nice fresh surface 
instead of dull green and brown. Find a similar way to do this. Also 
the female connections back there may be open too wide to make a 
complete contact-so bend them shut a little. While you're at it, clean 
all ground. My situation was my car would die and wouldn't restart-but 
would crank. Turned out to be a bad connection on the resistor that 
made my fuel pump shut down. So clean these contacts as well. -----
Dani B. #5003



>> On my way to work yesterday i came to a stop light and my Delorean 

must have wanted to do a reinactment of the BTTF movie.  She just 
died.  But she didn't have any power whats so ever. 





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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 21:21:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Headlight Saver

Many early cars have the brake lights wired through
the ignition switch so they will not work with the
ignition off.

Maybe one of the larger vendors knows the VIN cutoff.

1860 is this way, so I assume I will also have a
problem installing your (Hervey) "saver" kit..


--- John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:


>> Tom, 
>> Again, I don't know how your car is wired or not
>> wired, but I went out to a
>> car last night and with no key just opened it up and
>> stepped on the brake
>> and the brake lights came on. If you have one that
>> is wired different, then
>> that can be part of the problem. It will also be the
>> first one I have seen
>> or heard about. Take a look at the diagram and you
>> will see what I mean and
>> maybe you can tell me what's going on so I can make
>> a modification. There
>> are other places to pull power from.
>> John Hervey




		
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Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 





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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 04:13:52 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Running light problem

Clean both contacts in the bottom of the socket the bulb goes into. 
Sounds like one of them isn't making contact. -----Dani B. #5003






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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 23:26:30 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Delorean mysteriously died

Erik,
As you discovered, Wires not making a good solid contact, they heat up
separate and then cool down in a second or two and your back on the road. 
Inertia switch wires breaking contact so the fuel pump won't run. 
Ignition coil, pulse coil both when they go out will do this but normally
take longer to heal. 
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Erik Geerdink
Subject: [DML] Delorean mysteriously died

On my way to work yesterday i came to a stop light and my Delorean must have wanted to do a reinactment of the BTTF movie.  She just died.  But she didn't have any power whats so ever.




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 04:41:12 -0000
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Headlight Saver

Interesting, Mark.  My brakelights on VIN 1880 work when the ignition
is turned off.  The cutoff must be somewhere in between 1860 and 1880.

-Patrick C.
1880


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Many early cars have the brake lights wired through
>> the ignition switch so they will not work with the
>> ignition off.
>> 
>> Maybe one of the larger vendors knows the VIN cutoff.
>> 
>> 1860 is this way, so I assume I will also have a
>> problem installing your (Hervey) "saver" kit..








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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 22:07:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Headlight Saver (and Stop Lamps!)

 
Sure.  The procedure I wrote up in the magazine is quite simple and is very similar to the article Jan van de Wouw wrote here:
 
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/lightrelays.html
 
Essentially, it just splits power and ground to the headlight switch.  One set of power and ground operate the relay, and the other operates the light switch.  All it does is allow the lights master switch to trigger the relay, and the relay sends the juice to the perimeter lights.  Hence, your LMS won't melt down when those perimeter light contacts start getting dirty.
 
I don't know how John does his (I only spoke to him briefly about it on the phone one time), but note that there ARE differences in the wiring among the cars.  For instance1063's stop lamps will operate all day long with NO #18 fuse installed *and* the ignition off.  However, a fellow club member, Chris Pilcic who owns 10882, must turn on his ignition to use stop lamps and they are fused through #18 fuse.  Another DeLorean quirk!  For proof that my wiring has not been modified, refer to the "Technical Information Manual" published in March of '81.  It lists fuse #18 as "20A Spare Fuse", while referring to the more common "DeLorean Workshop Manual" will tell you that fuse #18 is "20A Stop Lamps".  Add this to your "DeLorean Mystery" list!  Keep in mind that there were several modifications done to the wiring in the DeLorean, so the diagram won't always be correct.
 
I can't comment on John's design, but I'm sure it will work fine as long as your ignition is on.  My theory was just that I needed a 12V source for the headlights, so I used the one that was already there!
 
Interesting discussion.
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063


gullwingmag <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Tom Watkins wrote:
Perhaps we could get some idea of the theory behind both versions? I'm 
now very curious as to why there would be two different versions if it 
is supposed to do the same thing?

There is more than one way to do this fix. I believe Toby (DeLorean 
Parts NorthWest) even has another method. The fix written up in 
Gullwing Magazine was developed by a DeLorean Midwest member... Jake 
K. Jake... maybe you can elaborate on your design?

Ron




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 11:20:35 +0100 (BST)
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: RE: Headlight Saver

My brake lights only work with the ignition on and
that is 4754

Dan

--- Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:


>> Many early cars have the brake lights wired through
>> the ignition switch so they will not work with the
>> ignition off.





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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 06:39:26 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: Hurricane Katrina and the Mueller's

Just a quick note to let all of our friends and family know that the
Mueller's in Mobile Alabama survived Hurricane Katrina.
 
For our friends in Mobile and along the Gulf Coast, we hope that this
message finds you in good health.
 
We were blessed that we suffered only minor damage to our home and no one in
our family or extended family were injured.
 
We just had our power and phone/cable service restored so it is now possible
to communicate with you.
 
We are on a cable phone network and the cable and electricity is not
reliable at this time.
 
Our cell phones are limited too.
 
Conditions overall are terrible in Mobile and the surrounding area.
 
Some of our neighbors have serious damage to their homes.
 
The surrounding area has been seriously damaged.
 
The Refinery is down and we have not yet been notified to report to work.
 
I am sure that once we go back to work we will be putting in many long days
and nights for quit some time.
 
Thanks for all of you thoughts and prayers, we do appreciate them.
 
Scott and Family


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 07:42:43 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Window fogging up in rain...solutions?


>> 
>> According the vendors I contacted, some DeLorean Mode Switches are 
>> designed
>> to do this, and some are not. It may have been the later models ('83s ???)
>> that ran the A/C in the Defrost/Defog mode. I tried for a couple of months
>> to get one of these elusive switches from the vendors, and finally gave 
>> up.
>> 


Grady was the one selling these special switches a few years back. I don't 
think they came that way from the factory at all, I think he had them 
modified to do that. Works great.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 13:20:24 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Window fogging up in rain...solutions?

Interesting - my AC runs when the defrost is selected, and it has
an early VIN (2135).  

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>: -------------- 



>> A/C for defrost is true for new cars, but not for ours.  
>> Dani B. #5003 





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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 13:25:57 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Headlight Saver

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
"I went out to a car last night and with no key just opened it up and 
stepped on the brake and the brake lights came on. If you have one that 
is wired different, then that can be part of the problem.  It will also 
be the first one I have seen or heard about."

Tom and John,
My DeLorean VIN: 2953 is the same way.  My brake lights don't come on 
until the key is turned on.

Matt
VIN: 2953






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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 13:32:45 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: At the pump today..

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
"I had an attendant ask me a unique question that I have never been 
asked before.... Without any prior questions or discussion about my 
DMC, he asked 'where is the gas tank if the engine is in back, and 
trunk in front?'"

I've actually had a few people at car shows ask me that when they saw 
the engine was in the back.  I had someone all confused one day.

Matt
VIN: 2953







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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 14:06:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean mysteriously died

I agree that there is a "bad"/dirty connection. I disagree with your
method of fixing it. Grinding away metal from the connectors is not
the way to do it. The connectors are plated and very thin. You are
removing the plating, making them susceptable to further corrosion,
and when grinding you are making them thinner and weaker (if you don't
go right through them! When you have bad connections across connectors
they overheat and soften. They then loosen and "open" so that they do
not tightly grip each other. The thing to do is to use a wire brush to
remove the oxidation and then reform the connectors so they grip each
other tightly when connected. The "best" way to do this is to remove
each connector from the plug, ONE AT A TIME, so you don't mix things
up, clean and reform. If you jiggle them and the problem "goes away"
you can bet it WILL come back if you don't clean the connectors. Bad
connections can cause all kinds of "weird" and intermittant problems
so if you have any signs of these types of things the best approach is
to just clean them all. If you see an overheated connector or fuse you
can figure ALL of the connectors in that circuit will need some TLC.
And maybe the ones nearby fromt the heat.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Well I'd say you've got a bad connection in one of the bulkhead 
>> connections. I have a dremel with a bit that looks like a drill bit, 
>> but has teeth all around and is used for grinding. I turn the Dremel 
>> on low, and grind out all the connections so I see nice fresh surface 
>> instead of dull green and brown. Find a similar way to do this. Also 
>> the female connections back there may be open too wide to make a 
>> complete contact-so bend them shut a little. While you're at it, clean 
>> all ground. My situation was my car would die and wouldn't r








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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 09:47:35 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: At the pump today..


>> Without any prior questions or discussion about my DMC, he asked "where
>> is the gas tank if the engine is in back, and trunk in front?" 



More than once, while filling up, I've been asked why I'm putting gasoline 
into my windshield-washer fluid tank.


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, Texas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 16:01:19 -0000
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean mysteriously died

Also check the ground on the TAB on the Passenger side.  I had the 
same problem on mine.  Acts like the battery has suddenly dissapeared.

Matt
16076


>> Erik,
>> As you discovered, Wires not making a good solid contact, they heat 

up separate and then cool down in a second or two and your back on the 
road. 




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 19:21:17 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Delorean mysteriously died

Erik - did at least the ligts in the binacle turn on  ?

When even those are off you might have a bad battery connection
like I had before. It helped to tighten the contacts, it
never happened again.

Elvis




On my way to work yesterday i came to a stop light and my Delorean must have wanted to do a reinactment of the BTTF movie.  She just died. 
  Erik




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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 17:46:16 -0000
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean mysteriously died

Hey Erik...

I had a similar situation happen to me.  Turns out that the main power
lead from the alternator to the firewall was shorted out.  The
connector at the end of the wire that connects to the alternator was
corroded and the soldering was loose.  So I cut off the end, stripped
the wire and installed a new connector at the end.  No more problems
since.

Of course, it could be any portion of that lead or another lead. 
Check your battery cables, and check the cable running into the
firewall.  Wiggle them around and see if any of the lights flicker on.

Good luck!
Dave Jacobs






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