Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2837
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:3 Sep 2005 13:59:28 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Grinding into 2nd gear ... ?
From: "gklee01" <gklee01_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Pre-pressurizing oil before cold start:
From: "ctdmc83" <nmastrocinque_at_dml_sikorsky.com>

3. Re: ATTN DeLorean Historians; who was Erv. R. Tallberg?
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

4. Re: More New Owner Questions re: Painting Fascias
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Electrical upgrade kits
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. Re: Headlight Saver
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Re: Rub Strip Glue
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: HID Headlight questions.
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. RE: Electrical upgrade kits
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Re: Georgia
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Re: Rub Strip Glue
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

12. Re: Electrical upgrade kits
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

13. RE: New DMC Owner with problems
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

14. Starting problem Please Help
From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Intake Manifold Bolts
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

16. Re: New DMC Owner with problems
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

17. Re: Pre-pressurizing oil before cold start:
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

18. Re: Intake Manifold Bolts
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

19. Re: Starting problem Please Help
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

20. Re: Pre-pressurizing oil before cold start:
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

21. Re: HID Headlight questions.
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

22. RE: Re: ATTN DeLorean Historians; who was Erv. R. Tallberg?
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

23. Re: Intake Manifold Bolts
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

24. Re: Starting problem Please Help
From: stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

25. Re: Rub Strip Glue
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 21:50:29 -0000
From: "gklee01" <gklee01_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Grinding into 2nd gear ... ?

The car only has 12k miles on it...would that have been enough to wear 
it out?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> I've fixed a couple of these now - it means that the car was driven 

too 

>> long with the original plastic clutch line. 







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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 22:00:40 -0000
From: "ctdmc83" <nmastrocinque_at_dml_sikorsky.com>
Subject: Pre-pressurizing oil before cold start:

Hello List,

Two things related to pre-pressurizing oil before starting a Delorean:
 
1.  I haven't started my 83 in about six months.  I have changed the 
oil and filter, and I want to ground the spark and crank the engine for 
five or 10 seconds maximum to circulate the new oil and build up the 
oil pressure somewhat before re-connecting the spark and starting it.  
In the "old days" of my 69 Buick, all I had do to was ground the coil 
wire going to the center of the distributor.  Is this all I have to do 
to my Delorean, or will I risk shorting out a module somewhere? 

2.  Does anyone have any experience with a small 12V oil pump that can 
be used to pre-pressurize the oil before starting an engine?  I 
remember seeing them advertised and wondered if anyone has installed 
one on a PRV.

Thanks much, Gentlemen.  







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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 22:33:19 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: ATTN DeLorean Historians; who was Erv. R. Tallberg?

Mike and others,

Although I do not know who Erv. R. Tallberg is, the 2,500 shares
is the standard amount of shares each dealer was required to buy
back in 1980.  I reviewed the D.A. Pennebaker DMC documentary
recently and those numbers were specifically mentioned at the
dealer meeting in New Orleans in early 1980.  The actual amount
was $25,000 which was translated into 2,500 shares at $100 each.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Packodenton_at_dml_a... wrote:

>> Hello:
>>  
>> I was able to track down on of those DMC logo; DeLorean stock 

certificate. 

>>  
>> The certificate was issued to Erv. R. Tallberg for 2,500 shares on 

April  18, 

>> 1980.
>>  
>> Does anyone know who this person was, and how were they related?
>> Dealer?
>>  
>> I'll brink the certificate to Chicago with my display.
>> Sincerely,
>> Mike Pack








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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 18:39:10 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: More New Owner Questions re: Painting Fascias

This was written up a few issues ago in DCS Magazine 
I also put up a bunch of pictues and paint information on the DML Archives about 4 years ago complete with pictures of the disassembly and paint
 
Ken
DeLorean Car Show Magazine
DeLorean Car Show Inc
www.deloreancarshow.com 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: jedimasterglenn <jedimasterglenn_at_dml_comcast.net>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 18:32:02 -0000
Subject: [DML] More New Owner Questions re: Painting Fascias


Hello,

A while back, I stumbled upon a great personal website that
documented 
the removal & painting process for both front and rear fascias.  I 
believe the owner resides in the UK.  Anyone know the URL for this
site 




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 22:39:12 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical upgrade kits

Josh,

Whoa, slow down, nothing at all works?  Have you checked the battery 
to see if it has juice, and the connections are tight?  If it worked 
before it should still work now, and check the battery bulkhead 
connections, maybe something broke off, and your grounds.  An entire 
rewire is not required, just a little investigative work.  If you 
have working door solanoids and you locked the car, they do draw 
current to keep the car locked, but it will take quite a while to 
drain a battery, unless your lock module has decided to weld itself 
together, and totally drain the battery.

The situation is probably not as bad as it appears, but check out 
the battery first.  And then let us know what you find.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> well, I'm not quite sure. Another owner emailed and said something 
>> about the fuse box. I looked at it and it didn't look melted. The 
>> battery is new but nothing works on the car anymore, when I bought 

it 

>> the lights worked and pump worked. I emailed DMCH to see how much 

it 

>> would cost me for them to rewire the whole car but have not heard 
>> from them yet. I'm running out of ideas.
>> 
>> Josh
>> 10989
>> 

<SNIP>








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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 22:41:52 -0000
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Headlight Saver

Come to think of it, on VIN 1880 there are 3 wires down by the
brakelight switch.  Two are plugged in, one just hangs next to it (all
are green I believe, maybe they have a color stripe on them, I'm not
positive).  Once, I mistakenly switched two of the wires.  When I did
that, I only got the brakelights to work when the key was turned. 
After a few hours of confusion and panic, and decided to switch one of
the wires in case I put them back on wrong, and oila, I had
brakelights when the key was off again.  Does every D have three wires
hanging down by that switch?  If so, maybe every D could be made to
have brakelights when the ignition is off by unplugging one wire, and
plugging in another.

If so, I want credit for this discovery.   :) 

-Patrick C.
1880







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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 22:44:34 -0000
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rub Strip Glue

Corey, you want to go buy 3M Side Molding tape at any auto store (even
Wal-mart has it).  Clean the stainless very well first, then apply the
tape to the rubstrip, then push the rubstrip onto the car and hold it
there for a few minutes.  It should reattach fine assuming the plastic
isn't damaged.

-Patrick C.
1880






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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 15:51:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HID Headlight questions.

Well........how about posting some pictures?
 
Chris
6301

Joseph Kuchan <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
Yup, in Volume 3, Issue 1 of "Gullwing". (Current Issue)

It's my son's car that has these headlights BTW, and they are great! ( I 
refuse to use the word "awesome", which someday will go down in history as 
the most abused world in the English language.) In any event, they really 
bring the car up to current standards in lighting.

-Joe Kuchan




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 18:11:42 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Electrical upgrade kits

Josh, Contact me off line. It may not be as bad as you think and a rewire
may take a bank loan.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
888-278-1969 Toll free.


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Josh Porter
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 3:15 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Electrical upgrade kits

well, I'm not quite sure. Another owner emailed and said something 
about the fuse box. I looked at it and it didn't look melted. The 
battery is new but nothing works on the car anymore, when I bought it 
the lights worked and pump worked. I emailed DMCH to see how much it 
would cost me for them to rewire the whole car but have not heard 
from them yet. I'm running out of ideas.

Josh
10989


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> Josh, What kind of up grades.
>> John
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:Josh Porter
>> Subject: [DML] Electrical upgrade kits
>> 
>> Could someone install the electrical upgrade kits in their 

driveway? I need one and don't have any fancy equipment to work with.







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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 23:55:29 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Georgia

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Steve Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_w...> wrote:

>> In Sept. 2003 there was a show in Gainsville, Ga. , is that club 
>> still  active? When is their next show?
>> 
>> Steve 1089




I'm going to chime in on this one, with the best of my knowledge,
even 
though I may not know all the facts.  I live quite close to 
Gainesville, GA, and know some of the people who attended the last 
show, as well as one of the persons who had a part in running SEDOC 
(south eastern DeLorean oweners club).  With all respect, most of the 
people running the club are getting "up there" in age, and to the
best 
that I can deduce, they are simply losing interest in keeping the
club 
going.  There are some personal/family issues taking up their time 
also I believe.  I know 3 other DeLorean owners in this area who are 
all 30 years old or less, and we get together once in a while, quite 
enthusiastically.
We talked about the SEDOC club, and it's current state of dormancy, 
and ended up calling the president, John Jordan, and he bascially
said 
us young folks could take over the club if we wanted to.  It seems 
that they want to "pass on the torch" so to speak.  This was just a 
couple months ago, and honestly not much has happened since then 
regarding taking over the club.  I was very much looking forward to a 
major DeLorean event so close to home, but in talking with another 
local person who has been active with the DeLorean community for many 
years, I'm convinced it seems almost impossible that we could have 
organized the event for this September (which is now THIS month!... 
wow).  
To sum everything up, it looks like us younger owners are going to 
take things over (however long that will take) and get the club 
somewhat active again.  But I think it's fairly safe to say, 
regrettably there won't be the gathering in Gainesville this year.
 :( 

-Derek Lukaschus
VIN 5302













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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 00:28:51 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Rub Strip Glue

3M Trim and Emblem adhesive

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>: -------------- 



>> I'm not sure if this was discussed before. I looked around the archives and 
>> could find 
>> nothing. Anyways, I was pulling the D out of the garage and did not know that 
>> my 
>> brother put a box of 





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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 17:35:13 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical upgrade kits

Josh,
You shouldn't have to replace all the wiring. Not only is it expensive and 
a difficult task, but it's probably unnecessary. As long as the overall 
wiring looms and connectors are in good shape, there is no need to replace it.

To fix most electrical problems with this car, all you need is a basic 
understanding of electrical circuits. Most of the electrical system was 
designed in the 70's, so it's not too difficult to figure out. Other 
"fancy" equipment you'll need is the Workshop manual for usually accurate 
schematics and a $15-$30 digital multimeter from Radio Shack.

For your situation, I would set the meter to read DC volts. Start by 
reading the voltage of the battery. If it's below 12 volts, recharge it. 
I've had several circuits in the past not work simply due to an 
undercharged battery. From there, measure the voltage as you follow the 
positive power cable. It could be a cable was left disconnected at the 
starter or main bulkhead. Another possible spot is where the negative 
battery cable connects to the frame. If you're voltage readings change when 
moving the negative meter lead from the battery to the frame, then the 
connection to the frame is bad.

With everything dead, there isn't too many places that can cause this. With 
a bit of detective work and time, you should be able to fix this.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 09:14 PM 9/2/2005 +0000, you wrote:

>>well, I'm not quite sure. Another owner emailed and said something
>>about the fuse box. I looked at it and it didn't look melted. The
>>battery is new but nothing works on the car anymore, when I bought it
>>the lights worked and pump worked. I emailed DMCH to see how much it
>>would cost me for them to rewire the whole car but have not heard

>from them yet. I'm running out of ideas.

>>
>>Josh
>>10989







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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 01:00:37 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: New DMC Owner with problems

Your AC system will MOST likely produce the symptoms you have if it is 
improperly serviced.  Too much refrigerant or oil in the system and the 
system will cycle on and off.  I had two cars up here that did this.  Bleed 
the sytem but if you're not sure how to do it take it to any local shop that 
can do a coolant "recycle".  They will put an extreme vacuum on the system 
to suck everything out it gets filtered and the system is refilled to the 
proper amount and pressures.

Should cost about $50 bucks or so to have this done depending on who does 
it.  Meineke is a great place and you usually get alot of attention because 
it's a DeLorean.  I've gotten discounts ever since I took my former car to a 
grand opening here in NC.  Good guys, and they may still have atleast one 
pic on their website.

Jeff in NC



>>From: "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] New DMC Owner with problems
>>Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 18:30:25 -0000
>>
>>I just got my 82 DMC VIN 11572 9050 miles
>>I have some bugs to work out with it but overall its' in good
>>condition.  I'm gonna try to work on it by order of importance, so I
>>won't ask for all my problems to be solved in this first posting.
>>Currently the AC is not blowing cold air.  When the ac is turned on








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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 01:55:36 -0000
From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Starting problem Please Help

Dear Group,

When attempting to start my DeLorean in the morning(after sitting
about 12hrs) I have to crank the engine 4-5times before it starts.
After it starts the engine runs perfectly smooth. I kept the engine
running for about 10 min til warm, then shut down. I'll start it again
and it starts up fine on first crank.

>From my searching I am thinking it is the thermo-timing switch. I live
in NY and the weather has been a steady 80 during the day 65-70 at
night... Not sure if its cold enough at night for it to be a
thermo-timing switch problem.
Can anyone shed some light on this problem?? All your help is much
appreciated. 

-James






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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 02:21:48 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Intake Manifold Bolts

I am gettiong closer to accessing the Valley of Death, and am a little 
nervous about it.  One manifold bolt stands in my path.  If looking at 
the engine from the rear of the car, of the four bolts holding down 
the manifold, its the upper left bolt, nearest to the brass tube that 
runs through this area.  I took the tube out, and the spark plug 
wire.  The bolt head is under a curved section  of manifold, 
preventing my 11 mm socket head from sitting squarely on it.  Looks 
like I need to get an 11 mm wrench tommorrow morning.  Do I need 
anything special to get this bolt off?  I sprayed with PB Blaster 
tonight as well.

Thanks for any experienced advice.

Paul

vin 10944







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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 03:14:24 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: New DMC Owner with problems

It will also cycle like crazy with too little refrigerant. Please don't 
go venting your (expensive) R12 into the air. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_m...> 
wrote:

>> Your AC system will MOST likely produce the symptoms you have if it 

is 

>> improperly serviced.  Too much refrigerant or oil in the system and 

the 

>> system will cycle on and off.  I had two cars up here that did this.  

Bleed 

>> the sytem but if you're not sure how to do it take it to any local 

shop that 

>> can do a coolant "recycle". 








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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 03:17:00 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Pre-pressurizing oil before cold start:

You can keep the car from starting by lifting the inertia switch 
under the dash (opens fuel pump ground) or removing the fuel pump 
fuse. Grounding out the ignition is not a good idea on most modern 
cars. You could also disconnect the smaller wires on the coil, but 
shutting off the fuel is preferable (then you won't flood it either). 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ctdmc83" <nmastrocinque_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> Hello List,
>> 
>> Two things related to pre-pressurizing oil before starting a 

Delorean:

>>  
>> 1.  I haven't started my 83 in about six months.  I have changed 

the 

>> oil and filter, and I want to ground the spark and crank the engine 

for 

>> five or 10 seconds maximum to circulate the new oil and build up 

the 

>> oil pressure somewhat before re-connecting the spark and starting 

it.  








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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 03:27:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Bolts

Try using a universal or a flex socket (a socket with a universal
built in) You will not be able to reach it with a box or open end
wrench. Unless it is really stuck you should be able to get it with an
11 mm socket and a long extention. It may not fit exactly flat onto
the head but unless the head is munched up you should be able to
loosen it. One "trick" is to tighten a little, loosen a little,
tighten, loosen. Go back and forth until you get it loose. This can be
dangerous, if the bolt is frozen you will twist the head off. Probably
going to happen no matter what you do if it is stuck. Another trick is
to tap it with a hammer to "shock" the corrosion and maybe loosen it.
Figure it may break and you will be drilling it out but maybe you will
get lucky? Only 1, you're not doing too bad! I generally break 2.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:

>> I am gettiong closer to accessing the Valley of Death, and am a little 
>> nervous about it.  One manifold bolt stands in my path.  If looking at 
>> the engine from the rear of the car, of the four bolts holding down 
>> the manifold, its the upper left bolt, nearest to the brass tube that 
>> runs through this area.  I took the tube out, and the spark plug 
>> wire.  The bolt head is under a curved section  of manifold, 
>> 







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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 03:20:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Starting problem Please Help

You should check out the cold start circuit. When cold the cold start
valve is supposed to squirt fuel ONLY when the starter motor is
actually cranking. You can also make sure the vacuum hoses and vacuum
circuit to the vacuum advance is working correctly. Another thing to
try is holding the gas pedal 1/4 of the way down when starting cold as
per the owner's manual. Some cars seem to start better if you hold the
gas pedal down, others do not need it at all. This can also be the
early sign of the need for a tune-up. Worn plugs, bad wires, dirty
injectors, etc.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Dear Group,
>> 
>> When attempting to start my DeLorean in the morning(after sitting
>> about 12hrs) I have to crank the engine 4-5times before it starts.
>> After it starts the engine runs perfectly smooth. I kept the engine
>> running for about 10 min til warm, then shut down. I'll start it again
>> and it starts up fine on first crank.
>> 
>> Fr








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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 03:38:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Pre-pressurizing oil before cold start:

If you want to be extra cautious do this:
Disconnect one of the small wires on the ignition coil
Lift the plunger on the inertia switch
Remove the spark plugs and squirt some oil in
Rotate the engine by hand at least 1 complete revolution
Make sure the engine has oil in it at least up to the add mark
Hook up a mechanical pressure gauge
NOW crank the motor over with the starter until you see oil pressure
Put everything back together and run the motor till it gets to
operating temperature.
Change the oil and filter
There is no good way to pressurize the oil system like on a Ford or
Chrysler with a primer rod and electric drill.
This is kind of overkill for 6 months storage. This is the kind of
procedure you do on a motor of unknown condition in "storage" (Ha Ha)
for many years. For just 6 months you should have no problem if the
oil is OK and the car was not in a flood.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> You can keep the car from starting by lifting the inertia switch 
>> under the dash (opens fuel pump ground) or removing the fuel pump 
>> fuse. Grounding out the ignition is not a good idea on most modern 
>> cars. You could also disconnect the smaller wires on the coil, but 
>>








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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 03:49:37 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: HID Headlight questions.

Chris - Ask and you shall receive!  Check out the DPNW folder in the 
Photos section.  These pictures are of Peter's car.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> Well........how about posting some pictures?
>>  
>> Chris
>> 6301
>> 
>> Joseph Kuchan <josephkuchan_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>> Yup, in Volume 3, Issue 1 of "Gullwing". (Current Issue)
>> 
>> It's my son's car that has these headlights BTW, and they are 

great! 






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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 20:58:56 -0700
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Re: ATTN DeLorean Historians; who was Erv. R. Tallberg?

Is this the same certificate?
http://72.14.207.104/search?q=cache:bsOSr7FIKFoJ:www.scripophily.net/democo1
9lovi.html+Erv.+R.+Tallberg&hl=en 

Here is the obit for Erv. R. Tallberg
http://www.fhtimes.com/times/1999archives/7-21-99/obits.htm

Tallberg Chevrolet Oldsmobile Cadillac, Petoskey, MI has changed names, but
See http://www.tallberg.com/ and look at the page title.

This would all tie together with the dealerships needing to buy stock
certificates, but it is interesting that this one was issued to him vs. the
business.

Invoice for research will be sent separately  :-)  

Gary
IN2TIME






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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 23:24:50 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Bolts

I just had to go through that nighmare with the bolt you mentioned.  My bolt 
snapped off inside the head (The head was warped anyway so no big deal 
there).  Getting the bolt back in was no walk in the park either.  Since I 
don't have small hands, or a surgeons dexterity, I used my grabbing tool to 
hold onto the head of the bolt and reinserted it from the top of the engine. 
I screwed the bolt in as far as I could this way.  Once I had the bolt in 
most of the way I was able to use a very small universal socket extension 
and socket to torque the bolt down.
That's my two cents.  I'm sure one of the local experts has a better way to 
deal with it.

Lingo #2034 





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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 00:34:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Starting problem Please Help

I am no expert on this but may i suggest the cold start valve?
-----
Daniel <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:Dear Group,

When attempting to start my DeLorean in the morning(after sitting
about 12hrs) I have to crank the engine 4-5times before it starts.
After it starts the engine runs perfectly smooth. I kept the engine
running for about 10 min til warm, then shut down. I'll start it again
and it starts up fine on first crank.




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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 04:50:50 -0000
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rub Strip Glue

Patrick has the right idea as the 3M Molding is a 3M VHB product that I 
talked about at PF...  No matter what you use it is all about the prep 
work - dust, dirt & oil free.  Also make sure that the temp is above 
70. If not and I would do this any way as a tip - use a heat gun to pre 
heat the stainless. Not to hot so you can not hold your bare hand 
against it but very warm.

PS most auto rub strips are held on by 3M VHB adhesives...and the 
consuner products purchased at pep boys, auto zone, wal*mart are the 
same stuff.

Again good call Patrick

Randal "The 3M Guy"
www.az-d.org


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>> Corey, you want to go buy 3M Side Molding tape at any auto store (even
>> Wal-mart has it).  Clean the stainless very well first, then apply the
>> tape to the rubstrip, then push the rubstrip onto the car and hold it
>> there for a few minutes.  It should reattach fine assuming the plastic
>> isn't damaged.
>> 
>> -Patrick C.
>> 1880







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