Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2838
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:4 Sep 2005 02:15:46 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Electrical upgrade kits
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: New DMC Owner with problems
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

3. RE: Starting problem Please Help
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

4. RE: Intake Manifold Bolts
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

5. RE: Pre-pressurizing oil before cold start:
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

6. RE: Intake Manifold Bolts
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

7. Re: headlights - now: brake lights
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

8. Re: New DMC Owner with problems
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

9. Re: Re: ATTN DeLorean Historians; who was Erv. R. Tallberg?
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: Re: ATTN DeLorean Historians; who was Erv. R. Tallberg?
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Re: Grinding into 2nd gear ... ?
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>

12. Re: Re: Grinding into 2nd gear ... ?
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>

13. Re: Intake Manifold Bolts
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

14. RE: #101716 Fuel Tank Closing Plate
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

15. Re: Electrical upgrade kits
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

16. Re: Intake Manifold Bolts
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

17. RE: #101716 Fuel Tank Closing Plate
From: stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

18. Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

19. radiator replacement 2
From: "petethepop2" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>

20. radiator replacement
From: "petethepop2" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>

21. Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

22. Idle drops too fast
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Intake manifold
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

24. Re: Intake manifold
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 05:03:19 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical upgrade kits

Yes the battery is juicy, it's new. The connections are tight. There 
was a pop sound that came from somewhere in the car. I couldn't find 
it. One owner told me that it might be bad cables. As for the door 
solanoids, I haven't gotten that far yet. When it comes to electrical 
I'm stumped. 

Josh
10989

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>> Josh,
>> 
>> Whoa, slow down, nothing at all works?  Have you checked the 

battery 

>> to see if it has juice, and the connections are tight?  If it 

worked 

>> before it should still work now, and check the battery bulkhead 
>> connections, maybe something broke off, and your grounds.  An 

entire 

>> rewire is not required, just a little investigative work.  If you 
>> have working door solanoids and you locked the car, they do draw 
>> current to keep the car locked, but it will take quite a while to 
>> drain a battery, unless your lock module has decided to weld itself 
>> together, and totally drain the battery.





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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 05:17:24 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: New DMC Owner with problems

Oooops,

Forgot that some of you still have R-12.  I had converted to R-134a.

Definitely don't go venting into the air!!  Still about the same price I 
quoted for either refrigerant to be recycled.  However, it will be more 
expensive if they have to add any R-12 to your system.

It might be cheaper in the long run to convert to the new coolant as R-12 is 
getting more scarce.

Jeff in NC



>>From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [DML] New DMC Owner with problems
>>Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 03:14:24 -0000
>>
>>It will also cycle like crazy with too little refrigerant. Please don't
>>go venting your (expensive) R12 into the air.
>>
>>Dave Swingle
>>
>>
>>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_m...>
>>wrote:
>
>>> > Your AC system will MOST likely produce the symptoms you have if it
>
>>is
>
>>> > improperly serviced.  Too much refrigerant or oil in the system and
>
>>the
>
>>> > system will cycle on and off.  I had two cars up here that did this.
>
>>Bleed








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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 05:25:36 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Starting problem Please Help

It could be your Cold Start system indeed.  Possibly related to fuel 
delivery but you're probably okay.  A few guys out here have to crank em a 
few times before they start up cold.

Test the switch and then test the Cold Start Valve itself.

A guy told me a few years back when I first got started to remove the valve 
to see if it sprayed when you power up without starting the car.  I believe 
he said to get a large piece of cardboard to spray on.

Honestly, I'd just pull the valve and clean it up the end of the nozzle if 
it looks dirty and see if that helps.  When they get build up inside they 
may work but just drip a bit which really isn't much help when you're trying 
to start the car cold.

Hope this helps.

Jeff in NC



>>From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Starting problem Please Help
>>Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 01:55:36 -0000
>>
>>Dear Group,
>>
>>When attempting to start my DeLorean in the morning(after sitting
>>about 12hrs) I have to crank the engine 4-5times before it starts.
>>After it starts the engine runs perfectly smooth. I kept the engine
>>running for about 10 min til warm, then shut down. I'll start it again
>>and it starts up fine on first crank.
>>





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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 05:43:58 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Intake Manifold Bolts

I've taken these things apart so many times I can do it with my eyes closed. 
  I used a socket extension about a foot long which gave me great leverage 
and fit in the area.  PB Blaster is a must if the car has not been 
disassembled in many years!!

An open or closed wrench will do fine but in my experience the extension 
worked best.

Now to the fun stuff.

Once the manifold is removed:

Remove the old O-rings and clean the grooves thoroughly.
Replace O-rings and use some of the special O-ring grease to get them to 
stay put in the grooves (dielectric grease works great!)

Now you're looking at the Y-Pipe.  This is a troublesome part if the bolts 
are rusted to hell because well...they break.  Spray the PB Blaster on the 4 
bolts and let sit for a few hours or overnight.  In my opinion the best way 
to remove a bolt that MAY break is to turn it fast so as not to give it time 
to start to twist the head off.  Just put some muscle into it and do it 
quick.  Just like a band-aid, one motion...RIGHT OFF! (To quote Seinfeld.)

Remove the Water Pump by loosening the hose clamps and then doing the same 
above procedure to the three bolts that hold it down.
Replace THOSE bolts with SS Versions and copper washers (if available.)  Use 
anti-seize compound to prevent corrosion on ALL BOLTS that attach cooling 
components.  I would HIGHLY recommend replacing the bolts you take off with 
NOS plated bolts.  They will resist rust ALOT longer than the silver zinc 
plated at the hardware store.

The O-rings under the Y-pipe will surely be flattened.  Remove and clean 
grooves as with intake manifold O-rings.  Use same knd of grease to reapply 
new O-rings (trust me, it works, as I've done this to every car I've 
serviced and the cooling system NEVER leaks and neither does the Manifold 
vacuum.)

Now that you're looking at the "valley" clean down deep inside those 
pockets.  This is VERY important!  I use ACETONE to soak in there and 
disolve alot of the gunk but you can use whatever works for you.

When reassembling be sure to replace the metal tube if it's an original 
unless it's in good shape.  I know I've seen a SS version of the pipe 
floating around and I actually decided to use a section of heater hose with 
a splice on my former car and eliminated the pipe altogether.  I was much 
happier with it.  It also makes the Water Pump easier to remove because you 
just have to undo the 3 bolts and the clamp at the pump and where the new 
hose splices with the one by the Clutch Slave Cylinder (if a manual 
transmission.)

I'd also recommend replacing the Idle Speed Thermister and the Ported Vacuum 
Switch (the one with the 3 hoses on it.)  If you want (but may not need to) 
you can also replace the LAMBDA Thermal Switch.  I hear these rarely go bad 
but for your piece of mind you may want to replace it to know it's "been 
done".

I hope all this helps!

Jeff in NC



>>From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Intake Manifold Bolts
>>Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 02:21:48 -0000
>>
>>I am gettiong closer to accessing the Valley of Death, and am a little
>>nervous about it.  One manifold bolt stands in my path.  If looking 






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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 23:45:34 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Pre-pressurizing oil before cold start:

Your way sounds easier, but the way I was taught is to remove the spark
plugs, and then pull the fuse for the fuel pump - then crank for a few
seconds, the oil pressure gauge should show pressure building just from the
crank - let it crank a few more seconds to move some oil around, replace the
plugs, wires and the fuse and your ready to try it...  but - 

Old gas, and the crud from it in the fuel tank, are going to be bigger
issues than your oil pressure though.  Hopefully its empty or near with some
fuel stabilizer?

Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
ctdmc83
 
1.  I haven't started my 83 in about six months.  I have changed the 
oil and filter, and I want to ground the spark and crank the engine for 
five or 10 seconds maximum to circulate the new oil and build up the 
oil pressure 





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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 23:32:17 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Intake Manifold Bolts

I used a universal joint adaptor on my socket and had no problems with any
of the 4, on either of two different engines***.  Pulling the manifold is
easier than it may seem...

Now - I don't have it back ON yet mind you...

Tom

*** 	By the way - this job intimidated me a little, so I took an
afternoon and went down to the local pick your part yard and found an 84
volvo with a B28f engine.  They didn't charge me a dime to spend an hour or
two pulling parts off their engine as a rehearsal for mine.  I did actually
purchase a few of the parts I pulled, but there was greater value in
practicing on an engine that nobody loved.

-----Original Message-----
From: sweetp01569
I am getting closer to accessing the Valley of Death, and am a little 
nervous about it.  





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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 12:32:15 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: headlights - now: brake lights

Hello all

This conversation makes no sense! Why you might ask? Because there is an
option on the car to switch between the lights always coming on or just with
ignition. Just to the right of the gas pedal is a bundle of wires and you
will notice that there is a green wire that is not connected to anything.
There is also another green wire that is connected to another wire going to
the pedal box. Just switch the green wires and the brake lights will either
come on with the key or always. On mine I switched the wires so the lights
only come on with the key.
So, it is a matter of which green wire was used and that doesn't mean they
all came out the same from the factory.

Tom Niemczewski
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl -> www.deloreana.com
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...



----- Original Message ----- 

>> Vin 1089 , brake lights will come on without the key.
>>
>> Steve 1089






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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 03:52:34 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: New DMC Owner with problems

Heh. And don't let the EPA find out if you do.. I believe that act
carries a $25,000 fine or so.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean

Dave Swingle wrote:


>>It will also cycle like crazy with too little refrigerant. Please don't
>>go venting your (expensive) R12 into the air.





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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 10:12:24 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: ATTN DeLorean Historians; who was Erv. R. Tallberg?

 
 
Gary,
Thank you very much for the additional information.
 
This is the same DeLorean Motor Co stock certificate. The Stock Prospectus  
listed on the came was included in the sale. The DeLorean items came from the  
DMC Bankruptcy Trustee in Detroit. 
The Scripophily store in here in Washington DC. While I was looking for a  
new pair of Allen Edmonds,I saw the DMC stock certificate &  prospectus.
 
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
 
 
In a message dated 09/03/2005 9:55:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com writes:

Is this  the same  certificate?
http://72.14.207.104/search?q=cache:bsOSr7FIKFoJ:www.scripophily.net/democo1
9lovi.html+Erv.+R.+Tallberg&hl=en  





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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 10:17:51 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: ATTN DeLorean Historians; who was Erv. R. Tallberg?

 
 
In a message dated 09/02/2005 11:11:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net writes:

  Mike and  others,

  Although I do not know who Erv. R. Tallberg is, the 2,500  shares
  is the standard amount of shares each dealer was required to  buy
  back in 1980.  I reviewed the D.A. Pennebaker DMC  documentary
  recently and those numbers were specifically mentioned at  the
  dealer meeting in New Orleans in early 1980.  The actual  amount
  was $25,000 which was translated into 2,500 shares at $100  each.

Later,
Rich W.



Thanks Rich for the information.
 
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
Wash DC
USA
 




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 11:12:38 -0400
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Grinding into 2nd gear ... ?

Check your level of clutch fluid

Mike
#17084
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "gklee01" <gklee01_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 5:50 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Grinding into 2nd gear ... ?


>> The car only has 12k miles on it...would that have been enough to wear
>> it out?
>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
>>> > I've fixed a couple of these now - it means that the car was driven
>
>> too
>
>>> > long with the original plastic clutch line.





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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 11:12:38 -0400
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Grinding into 2nd gear ... ?

Check your level of clutch fluid

Mike
#17084
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "gklee01" <gklee01_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 5:50 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Grinding into 2nd gear ... ?


>> The car only has 12k miles on it...would that have been enough to wear
>> it out?
>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
>>> > I've fixed a couple of these now - it means that the car was driven
>
>> too
>
>>> > long with the original plastic clutch line.





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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 17:03:18 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Bolts

Hey David,

I got it loose with an 11mm wrench, from the left outside of the 
manifold, past the spark plug wire.  Whew!!!. No frozen manifold 
bolts, and no frozen water pump bolts.  Het, where can I buy a 
pressure tester for the coolant system?

Thanks,

Paul


 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:

>> Try using a universal or a flex socket (a socket with a universal
>> built in) You will not be able to reach it with a box or open end
>> wrench. Unless it is really stuck you should be able to get it 

with an

>> 11 mm socket and a long extention. It may not fit exactly flat onto
>> the head but unless the head is munched up you should be able to
>> loosen it. One "trick" is to tighten a little, loosen a little,
>> tighten, loosen. Go back and forth until you get it loose. 





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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 14:17:42 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: #101716 Fuel Tank Closing Plate

Tom,

We now have stainless fuel tank closing plates. If you're interested we can
be reached at (800)350-7429 or pjgrady.com.

Rob Grady

P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Tom Tait
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 12:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] #101716 Fuel Tank Closing Plate

I'm looking for #101716 Fuel Tank Closing Plate - got a used one?  I'll
repaint and refinish if its in rough shape - mine has a hole the size of
a cantaloupe.  Please email me at work - TTait(AT)brcweb.com

Tom





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-- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.18/86 - Release Date: 8/31/2005
-- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.18/86 - Release Date: 8/31/2005 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 15 Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 16:42:58 -0000 From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com> Subject: Re: Electrical upgrade kits Josh, Just because the battery is new doesn't mean its got a good charge. Take it out, trickle charge it for a few hours, and try it in the car again. As for the door lock solenoids, pop off the wood cover behind the passenger seat and unhook the red wire and the brown wires that come from the door lock module box from the circuit breaker. There is a good chance that is what is draining your battery. Leave them unhooked and lock both doors individually from now on. Once the battery is charged up again, see if anything works. Don't jump to ordering a new wiring harness, that would be overkill and you still might have the same problems. Let us know if that did anything for you. Also, if the cables to the battery are corroded, clean them off with sandpaper then tighten them down again. -Patrick C. 1880 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Yes the battery is juicy, it's new. The connections are tight. There 
>> was a pop sound that came from somewhere in the car. I couldn't find 
>> it. One owner told me that it might be bad cables. As for the door 
>> solanoids, I haven't gotten that far yet. When it comes to electrical 
>> I'm stumped. 
>> 
>> Josh
>> 10989









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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 18:20:06 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Bolts

They run about $50 on ebay. Look for "stant 255A" 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:

>> Hey David,
>> 
>>,,,,,  Het, where can I buy a 
>> pressure tester for the coolant system?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul









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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 14:23:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: RE: #101716 Fuel Tank Closing Plate

Rob, 

How much for a stainless closing plate, i need to buy one for my car aswell? Thanks
---
rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com wrote:
Tom,

We now have stainless fuel tank closing plates. If you're interested we can
be reached at (800)350-7429 or pjgrady.com.





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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 13:33:14 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...

The speedo on my D is a pain.  I just pulled the wheel and found the cable
end that goes into the plastic hub shredded.  The speedo is relatively new
(Most of the inches put in it were in the garage) as is the plastic cap.
The speedo rotates freely as do the cables. (The lower cable is new as
well).  When it did sorta work the speed jumps/pulses.

Here's my idea ... We need an electrical transducer that attaches to the
front wheel.  Then we need the actuator on the speedo end with an electrical
connection in-between.  The first thought was stepper motors as the
transducer and actuator but I can't say for sure that will work.  Optimal
eliminates the angle drive and associated maintenance.

Or we need a transducer that picks up off the rear axle (magnetic or optical
pulse) and actuator connected to the speedometer. (I've been tempted to put
a bicycle speedo in as a backup)

Now I'm done ranting.  Thanks for listening.

NK





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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 18:49:07 -0000
From: "petethepop2" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>
Subject: radiator replacement 2

ok, i should have looked at the maintenance manual first regarding 
radiator replacement. Instructions there (section C:14:03) look pretty 
straightforward. Between that and various notes here in the mailing 
list on bleeding the air out, I should be OK for this, tho any 
suggestions will be appreciated.







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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 18:45:11 -0000
From: "petethepop2" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>
Subject: radiator replacement

I am finally getting around to swapping in a new radiator on 3597. Has 
anyone written this procedure up? I have the automatic, want to add 
Grady's clamp-on cooling fin assembly for the transmission. Can anyone 
point me to the partno in the manual (I'm now loking at section1, 
subsection3, group1 of the parts manual) where it should be installed?

thanks.







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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 19:05:00 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...

Nice idea but economics gets in the way. I've been involved in some 
aftermarket parts work and we've actually thought thru this a bit, 
and this requires :

-- a weatherproof electrical sender, either on the trans or front 
wheel that can take the abuse;
---a servomotor to continue to turn the speedo cable in time with the 
transducer OR a new speedo head that is electronic rather than 
mechanical, but can still run the odometer;
---some electronics to translate the sender pulses to a servomotor 
control OR an electronic gauge (but something still needs to run the 
mechanical odometer, or that needs to be replaced too!);
---someone to design, engineer, and test all this, who is willing to 
invest thousands up front for production, and then sell it for less 
than or equal to the price of the current angle drive ($60)

Here's a made-up business case analysis - yeah the numbers are made 
up but it's close enough for this excercise:
-----
After spending many hours doing the design, sourcing the parts, 
building the kit etc. and building the inventory, say the investment 
is $5000 in engineering and testing(probably a lot more) and $40000 
in the first 200 units ($200 each set for a pulse drive, custom 
control circuit, and a speedo head or servomotor.)

So our developer ties up $45000 in time and money.  Assuming he can 
sell all 200 of them over 2 years and wants to make his investment 
back in that much time (no profit yet) it has to sell for $225 each. 
AFTER two years he gets to make a gross profit of 13% per unit for 
all this trouble and investment. Not much of a business plan. Add 
marketing costs in there too. 

In addition, probably 3/4 of the target purchasing audience would 
have to pay someone another $100 to install it, more if the dash has 
to come apart.

How many $225 (+ install) speedo setups do you suppose someone would 
sell, given that I can continue to buy angle drives for $60? Even if 
I'm off by 50% in all the numbers, it doesn't work.

That's why nobody has done it, at least commercially. I hope someone 
will do one and prove me wrong. BTW this is exactly how BMW 
speedometers have worked since about 1983, driven from the rear axle.
 So - maybe there's a design that you can start with.

Dave Swingle



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_b...> wrote:

>> The speedo on my D is a pain.  I just pulled the wheel and found 

the cable

>> end that goes into the plastic hub shredded.  The speedo is 

relatively new

>> (Most of the inches put in it were in the garage) as is the plastic 

cap.

>> The speedo rotates freely as do the cables. (The lower cable is new 

as

>> well).  When it did sorta work the speed jumps/pulses.
>> 
>> Here's my idea ... We need an electrical transducer that attaches 

to the

>> front wheel.  







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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 23:07:23 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Idle drops too fast

Hey all.. just wondering if anyone has ever encountered their idle dropping 
too fast when you let off the gas... MIne is doing that for some reason now .. it 
goes down to like 500 rpms before it catchs itself and goes to normal idle.. I 
put the spring on the throttle spool on the weakest setting.. but it still does it.. 
any suggestions?? thanks..Dave.






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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 00:56:42 -0000
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Intake manifold

Are there any detailed step by step instructions to removing the 
intake manifold so that i can clean up my "valley of death" Thanks 







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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 01:27:21 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Intake manifold

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/waterpump.html
and
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/waterpumpDMC.html

and in the manual. Both of the web pages assume you have the manual in 
hand as you are doing this. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Are there any detailed step by step instructions to removing the 
>> intake manifold so that i can clean up my "valley of death" Thanks







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