Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2840
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:5 Sep 2005 02:11:59 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

2. Gift from the P.O.?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

3. Re: New DMC Owner with problems
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: DCS WEBPAGE UPDATE
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Second gear fork pin questions...
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

7. Re: Idle drops too fast
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

9. AW: Re: Electrical upgrade kits
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

10. Re: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

11. Injectors
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

12. automatic parts for sale
From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Injectors
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Re: Gift from the P.O.?
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

15. Re: New DMC Owner with problems
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

16. Re: Electrical upgrade kits
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Injectors
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

18. Re: Gift from the P.O.?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

19. Re: New DMC Owner with problems
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

20. Re: Gift from the P.O.?
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

21. engine pulling question.. Also upgrades.
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

22. RE: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

23. Re: New DMC Owner with problems
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

24. RE: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

25. Re: Injectors
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 22:23:05 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...

I agree Dave.  But .... If the right person thinks this through there may be
an easy solution.  I pose the question to get people thinking.  Who knows
what will happen.  In the mean time, I've got to fight with mine  :-( 

Nick

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Dave Swingle
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 1:05 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...


Nice idea but economics gets in the way. 




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 00:36:10 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Gift from the P.O.?

As I'm replacing all the coolant hose sections under the car, I come across
an extra...

Right under the middle of the car just aft of where the main pipes end at
the closing plate, the previous owner has installed an additional section of
cooling hose 6" long directly over a section of pipe, and it's installed
with cable ties.

Is it common practice to put on some extra hose to stop a rattle or the
like, or was this a truly awful fix for a hairline crack in the pipe?
Anyone?








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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 05:42:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: New DMC Owner with problems

R-12 is more plentifully than ever, and only a few
dollars more per LB than R-134a.

Either way, you should not vent R-12 or R-134a in to
the atmosphere.  Both are bad for the environment.



--- Jeff Friday <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com> wrote:


>> Oooops,
>> 
>> Forgot that some of you still have R-12.  I had
>> converted to R-134a.
>> 
>> Definitely don't go venting into the air!!  Still
>> about the same price I 
>> quoted for either refrigerant to be recycled. 
>> However, it will be more 
>> expensive if they have to add any R-12 to your
>> system.
>> 
>> It might be cheaper in the long run to convert to
>> the new coolant as R-12 is 





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 05:58:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DCS WEBPAGE UPDATE

It ran fine for me.  It was my first time driving a
properly running "stock" DeLorean (Mine have always
been turbo)...  And I was impressed.  Even with the
automatic transmission, it performed well. 

Did you replace the steering column bushing yet?  That
is about the only problem I noticed.

Who ever wins this car will have a fine example of a
DeLorean.  I will be buying a ticket.


--- kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com wrote:


>> The first pictures of the raffle car (Wtih Claudia
>> Wells) is now on the  
>> front page of the website
>> It will be expanded as I get more pics
>> This winter it will get a cosmetic upgrade such as
>> painted fascias and  other 
>> things like I did last time so it is not in its
>> final stage
>> We have worked to get it mechanically sound and this
>> one runs very  nice
>> It is the easiest starting DeLorean I have had (this
>> was number 8 of 11) 
>> It came from Long Island and the owner had it
>> serviced at PJ Gradys on a  
>> regular basis.
>>  
>> Hey Marc how did it run for you 






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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 08:27:45 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Second gear fork pin questions...

Aloha,
About a month ago I wrote describing the problem I was having with second 
gear popping out of gear every so often.  I was told by Rob that it was 
probably a sheared pin on the second gear fork.  I have a couple more 
questions about what the fork and pin do and what the 1-2 slider gear does.

I notice that every so often when shifting from first to second that second 
gear feels stiff and clunky.  Even before I let out the clutch.  All other 
gears feel smooth.  And 2nd can sometimes feel smooth.  But I would say 50 
percent of the time second feels crunchy.  98 percent of the time it goes 
into 2nd gear with no grinding.  I can punch the gas and accelerate quickly 
through the gears with no grinding too.  When I try to get it to grind the 
only way I can do it is to go into first and very quickly and with VERY VERY 
low RPM's (sub 1500) shift to second.

My question is does the second gear fork pin only keep the car from popping 
out of gear or can it also make the shifting NOT smooth?   And is there a 
telltale sign of a 1-2 slider gear problems vs other second gear problems?

-Alex







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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 19:44:26 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...

I posed my answer to get people thinking too. The other thing that 
can happen in cases like this is that someone decides do to it for 
the technical challenge of it, comes up with something reproduceable 
that we didn't othrewise think of, and the problem gets solved 
practially and on the cheap. I can hope...

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_b...> wrote:

>> I agree Dave.  But .... If the right person thinks this through 

there may be

>> an easy solution.  I pose the question to get people thinking.  Who 

knows

>> what will happen.  In the mean time, I've got to fight with mine  :-( 
>> 
>> Nick
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On 

Behalf

>> Of Dave Swingle
>> Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 1:05 PM
>> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [DML] Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...
>> 
>> 
>> Nice idea but economics gets in the way.







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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 13:00:28 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Idle drops too fast

Did this just start to happen or is it in conjunction with something 
you have done? It makes a difference in where to start looking.

If it just started you probably have a problem with the idle motor 
becoming sticky. You can remove the hose connecting it to the cold-
start valve and spray some Marvel Mystery Oil in it. Check the 
connections at the ignition coil - this is where the RPMs start to be 
monitored - also check the position of turn-on of the idle speed micro-
switch. There is an adjustment procedures somewhere in the manual but 
a quick look did not locate it - I just set it so that the switch 
turns on just as the throttle plates start to open. If the switch is 
set so the idle motor comes on too soon the idle motor is completely 
closed when the throttle plates close and the idle motor has a big 
adjustment to make to speed up the engine - which usually accounts for 
some lag. A sticky micro-switch (internally) can cause the same 
problem (replace it), poor connections can too (try disconnecting and 
reconnecting all connections on the idle speed motor, engine grounds, 
fuse, etc., to improve contact).

The engine has to be in good tune and free of vacuum leaks for the 
idle circuit to function properly - which means, you need to examine 
all the vacuum hoses, connections, etc., to see if the idle motor is 
being affected by some other issue.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> Hey all.. just wondering if anyone has ever encountered their idle 

dropping 

>> too fast when you let off the gas... MIne is doing that for some 

reason now .. it 

>> goes down to like 500 rpms before it catchs itself and goes to 

normal idle.. I 

>> put the spring on the throttle spool on the weakest setting.. but it 

still does it.. 

>> any suggestions?? thanks..Dave.









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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 15:47:48 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...

The only way it will make sense to "electrify" the speedometer is as
part of a comprehensive engine management and powertrain computer
system. Short of that it is possible to have a reliable, functioning
speedometer with the origional system and upgraded parts. The weakest
link is the angle drive. The next problem area is the lower speedo
cable support bracket (or the missing, broken one). Next is the lower
cable and the drive disc. I also believe many cars with chronic speedo
problems have loose, broken parts floating around inside the speedo
head jamming up the magnets causing the speedo cables, angle drives,
and drive discs to fail. If you seem to go through speedo parts you
should pull the speedo head out and look inside for clips and screws
jamming up the works. This is all a whole lot cheaper than
overdesigning the speedo. Unless you can adapt an electronic speedo
from a bike! No odometer and it wouldn't be legal. I also believe that
many angle drives fail from a lack of lubrication. When was the last
time you lubricated yours? They are supposed to be lubricated at the
time of every service. Because of the limited mileage most are driven
then it should be lubricated once a year.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> Nice idea but economics gets in the way. I've been involved in some 
>> aftermarket parts work and we've actually thought thru this a bit, 
>> and this requires :
>> 
>> -- a weatherproof electrical sender, either on the trans or front 
>> wheel that can take the abuse;
>> ---a servomotor to continue to turn the speedo cable in time with the 
>> transducer OR a new speedo head that is electronic rather than 
>> mechanical, but can still run the odometer;
>> ---some electronics to translate the sender pulses to a servomotor 
>> control OR an electronic gauge (but something still needs to run the 
>> mechanical odometer, or that needs to be replaced too!);
>> ---someone to design, engineer, and test all this, who is willing to 








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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 16:58:01 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Re: Electrical upgrade kits

Just leave the door locks alone for a second, seems as some new
strange theories are going around here that give me goose bumps...

Why do you think your battery is ok ? does the voltmeter show 12V ?

Is it still connected ? Does it have tight connections ? Both, the red and
the black one ?

Please describe exactly what does not work anymore or what did work before.

do the door lights or dome lights work ?

What happens when you turn the key ? do the lights in the binacle turn on ?

Elvis & 6548



Yes the battery is juicy, it's new. The connections are tight. There
was a pop sound that came from somewhere in the car. I couldn't find
it. One owner told me that it might be bad cables. As for the door
solanoids, I haven't gotten that far yet. When it comes to electrical
I'm stumped.

Josh
10989





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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 16:32:33 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...

It might be easier to look at other cars that use the same gearbox.  The
'88 and newer Esprits use the same basic box with different gear
ratios.  They are not using an angle drive like the DeLorean.  It might
be much easier to reroute a speedo cable to the gearbox (and translate
the change in rotation) than to come up with an electronic solution.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>: -------------- 



>> Nice idea but economics gets in the way. I've been involved in some 
>> aftermarket parts work and we've actually thought thru this a bit, 
>> and this requires : 
>> 
>> -- a weatherproof electrical sender, either on the trans or front 
>> wheel that can take the abuse; 
>> ---a servomotor to continue to turn the speedo cable in time with the 
>> transducer OR a new speedo head that is electronic rather than 
>> mechanical, but can still run the odometer; 
>> ---some electronics to translate the sender pulses to a servomotor 
>> control OR an electronic gauge (but something still needs to run the 
>> mechanical odometer, or that needs to be replaced too!); 
>> ---someone to design, engineer, and test all this, who is willing to 
>> invest thousands up front for production, and then sell it for less 
>> than or equal to the price of the current angle drive ($60) 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 19:16:45 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Injectors

Seems my injectors are the cause of the fuel system loosing pressure.
When the engine is off and system pressurized I notice on a few of
them that the fuel is slowly seeping out of the valve. These were
purchased new in 01, cleaned a year ago, and I currently have injector
cleaner running through the car. Does this mean internal springs are
shot?  What are the differences between 0 437 502 022 injectors and
the 0 437 502 047  or 004 injectors... I'm guessing the connectors?
-----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 20:01:09 -0000
From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: automatic parts for sale

Hi I converted my 81 DMC-12 from an auto to a 5-speed and still have 
parts left to sell.

I have the pedel box for the auto,
The gear slector and the parts that go with it, shifter, gear plate, 
slide quadrent (a little used but not broken)
I also have the torque converter and extra parts,
if interested please email me at DeLorean170_at_dml_aol.com, or 
MyDMC5898_at_dml_yahoo.com

My home number is 570-331-8456
and my cell number (best way to get me) is 570-328-1363. if you call 
I may not be able to answer right away depending on if I'm at work 
or not, so just leave a message I will get back to you asap.
I don't have any prices so please if your interested I can give you 
the prices the venders are asking for and we can negotiate the 
price, I'm looking to get rid of them since i no longer need them so 
best offer takes them or what every part you need I have avaliable. 
the trans itself and computer are already sold and gone.

Thanks for your time,
Darryl
VIN 5898 






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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 22:01:22 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Injectors

At rest pressure, the metering head should not send any pressure to the 
injectors

Martin

stainlessilusion wrote:


>>Seems my injectors are the cause of the fuel system loosing pressure.
>>When the engine is off and system pressurized I notice on a few of
>>them that the fuel is slowly seeping out of the valve. These were
>>purchased new in 01, cleaned a year ago, and I currently have injector
>>cleaner running through the car. Does this mean internal springs are
>>shot?  What are the differences between 0 437 502 022 injectors and
>>the 0 437 502 047  or 004 injectors... I'm guessing the connectors?
>>-----Dani B. #5003
>>
>>  
>>






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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 21:31:39 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Gift from the P.O.?

My car also had this "mod" done to it. 

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:

>> As I'm replacing all the coolant hose sections under the car, I come

across

>> an extra...
>> 
>> Right under the middle of the car just aft of where the main pipes

end at

>> the closing plate, the previous owner has installed an additional

section of

>> cooling hose 6" long directly over a section of pipe, and it's installed
>> with cable ties.
>> 
>> Is it common practice to put on some extra hose to stop a rattle or the
>> like, or was this a truly awful fix for a hairline crack in the pipe?
>> Anyone?








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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 21:43:03 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: New DMC Owner with problems

Quick thing guys.

I just want to clarify that I don't "vent" into the atmosphere and I was not 
advising him to do so.  I capture the stuff.  When I told him to "bleed the 
system of excess" (if that was the problem) I assume if he doesn't have the 
equipment that he will take it in to be serviced.

Also, I went by a local shop the other day to check on R-12 avaialbility for 
another DeLorean owner.  I was told it was about $100 per lb of R-12 Vs the 
$50 or so he charged per lb of R-134a.  Perhaps you guys have it cheaper in 
other places but he was telling me a single cylinder of R-12 (forget how 
much he said was in it) was over 1k.

I'm glad I had converted because (atleast here) that was a big difference in 
price.

Personally, I prefer R-12 because it is MUCH colder.  I don't think long 
term "environmental" effects of R-12 woulda been apparent for QUITE some 
time.  Too bad "they" shut down production of it.  I only used R-134a 
because it was cheaper and I could do it myself.

Jeff in NC



>>From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [DML] New DMC Owner with problems
>>Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 05:42:55 -0700 (PDT)
>>
>>R-12 is more plentifully than ever, and only a few
>>dollars more per LB than R-134a.
>>
>>Either way, you should not vent R-12 or R-134a in to
>>the atmosphere.  Both are bad for the environment.
>>
>>
>>
>>--- Jeff Friday <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com> wrote:
>>
>
>>> > Oooops,
>>> >
>>> > Forgot that some of you still have R-12.  I had
>>> > converted to R-134a.
>>> >
>>> > Definitely don't go venting into the air!!  Still
>>> > about the same price I
>>> > quoted for either refrigerant to be recycled.
>>> > However, it will be more
>>> > expensive if they have to add any R-12 to your
>>> > syste





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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 22:04:13 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical upgrade kits

I'll try to go in order from Elvis' post. 

The battery is good I got the multi meter out and it read 12V. The 
cables are as tight as I could get them. Whenever I got the car I 
already knew that the fuel pump had to be replaced for numurous 
reasons. After I overhauled the fuel system I took the battery out of 
my truck and used it to see if the lights worked and my new pump 
still worked. At that time some lights worked and the pump was trying 
to pump gas that wasn't there. So I know that the pump is good, I 
only had it running for three seconds. After I got that done I 
finished replacing my lower control arm, got that done. I got all the 
projects done and put gas in the tank, turned the key to on, some 
lights worked the horn and the radio worked. When I tried to start 
the car there a pop sound and nothing has worked after that. I went 
through the fuse box and relays to start tracking down the pop sound. 
Most of my relays are stuck in the sockets to where I am unable to 
pull them out so I tested to ones that I could get out and all were 
good except for the middle one on the back row. All I have is a parts 
manual and I couldn't find it in there. The relays that I were able 
to get were a red, green and white one. The green one came from the 
back row last one and the red one came from the back row first one. 
The white one came from somewere in the front row, I forgot and can't 
get to my car right now. This car is my biggest challenge, I love it 
more than anything but it's smarter than I am:)

Josh


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> 
wrote:

>> Just leave the door locks alone for a second, seems as some new
>> strange theories are going around here that give me goose bumps...
>> 
>> Why do you think your battery is ok ? does the voltmeter show 12V ?
>> 
>> Is it still connected ? Does it have tight connections ? Both, the 

red and

>> the black one ?
>> 
>> Please describe exactly what does not work anymore or what did work 

before.

>> 
>> do the door lights or dome lights work ?
>> 
>> What happens when you turn the key ? do the lights in the binacle 

turn on ?

>> 
>> Elvis & 6548
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Yes the battery is juicy, it's new. The connections are tight. There
>> was a pop sound that came from somewhere in the car. I couldn't find
>> it. One owner told me that it might be bad cables. As for the door
>> solanoids, I haven't gotten that far yet. When it comes to 

electrical

>> I'm stumped.
>> 
>> Josh
>> 10989









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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 23:40:44 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Injectors

The difference in injectors is usually the pressure at which they open 
and how much they open at different pressures. Therefore, it is a good 
idea to use the correct ones. Five different numbers can look the same 
on the outside but all perform very differently.

I am not a big fan of cleaning injectors - I personally do not believe 
it is worth while. If more than one injector is leaking, either they 
were not cleaned properly or I would be suspect that the fuel system 
has had some moisture in it. That could mean some of the other seating 
surfaces may be scored too. If one is leaking I would suggest 
replacing them all - with the correct ones - and doing another 
pressure test.

BTW, a leaking injector usually means a rough running engine 
especially at cruse and idle. Any symptoms?

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Seems my injectors are the cause of the fuel system loosing pressure.
>> When the engine is off and system pressurized I notice on a few of
>> them that the fuel is slowly seeping out of the valve. These were
>> purchased new in 01, cleaned a year ago, and I currently have 

injector

>> cleaner running through the car. Does this mean internal springs are
>> shot?  What are the differences between 0 437 502 022 injectors and
>> the 0 437 502 047  or 004 injectors... I'm guessing the connectors?
>> -----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 23:53:28 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Gift from the P.O.?

Actually I think that's a factory "mod", they use the hunk of hose to 
keep the tube from rubbing on the brake line that is just above it. 

The "giveaway" is that the zip-ties are a strange design, they look
like a "ladder" rather than the normal ones you get now. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:

>> My car also had this "mod" done to it. 
>> 
>> Matt
>> #1604
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
>
>>> > As I'm replacing all the coolant hose sections under the car, I 

come

>> across
>
>>> > an extra...
>>> > 
>>> > Right under the middle of the car just aft of where the main pipes
>
>> end at
>
>>> > the closing plate, the previous owner has installed an additional
>
>> section of
>
>>> > cooling hose 6" long directly over a section of pipe, and it's 

installed







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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 00:05:21 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: New DMC Owner with problems

Marc's right - the price is coming down as the last of the R12 cars 
(other than nut-cases like us) are getting junked off the road now. 
So they are either not getting fixed or are getting converted as a 
last-ditch effort. It's been since 1993 or so that R12 was used in 
new cars. The stuff everyone was hoarding is coming back out. 

Take a look on ebay. The small cans seem to trade at about $15-20 for 
the real stuff. Nice thing about the small cans is that you can be 
pretty sure they are really R12, whereas the big containers may have 
been refilled with some "blend" and you can't tell what's in there. 
You do need the license etc  - easy to get.  

I was at Sam's club today and a whole case (12 cans) of R134A was 
$80. So it's pretty cheap at retail too (<$7 a can). 

Shops charge quite a bit more because, well, they can. I just had a 
shop work on my car and he was charging $90 a pound for real R12. If 
I had brought my own I'd have saved quite a bit. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_m...> 
wrote:

>> Quick thing guys.
>> 
>> =====
>> 
>> Also, I went by a local shop the other day to check on R-12 

avaialbility for 

>> another DeLorean owner.  I was told it was about $100 per lb of R-

12 Vs the 

>> $50 or so he charged per lb of R-134a.  Perhaps you guys have it 

cheaper in 

>> other places but he was telling me a single cylinder of R-12 

(forget how 

>> much he said was in it) was over 1k.
>> 
>> I'm glad I had converted because (atleast here) that was a big 

difference in 

>> price.
>> 
>> Personally, I prefer R-12 because it is MUCH colder.  







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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 00:58:00 -0000
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Gift from the P.O.?

As did mine, but it was only about 2", not 6".

Patrick C.
1880

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>> My car also had this "mod" done to it. 
>> 
>> Matt
>> #1604










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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 22:08:16 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: engine pulling question.. Also upgrades.

Ok. Complain if you want but i'm posting this without having searched
the archives or dmcnews because I'd like to get this out before the
moderator de jeur goes to bed, as I plan on doing this tomorrow right
after I mow the yard...

My question is this... How the heck do you get the engine out without
removing the transmisson (its a manual)?  The shop manual I have only
talks about pulling them both together,but it will be much easier on me
if I can only pull the engine right now, get it on the stand, then start
dealing with the transmission.. I've removed every bolt i've seen.. 3 on
the starter, 4 on the transmission bell housing, and of course the 2 on
the motor mounts.. The top seems to be seperating easily but the bottom
seems to be hanging on something.. I fought with this a good 3 hours
today to the point I got sick of dealing with it. Are there any bolts
i'm not seeing? I know there are two on the very bottom installed facing
the front of the car, but I can't tell they're connecting the trans to
the engine. Though if they are, how the heck can I get to them with the
engine still in the car? There's no way to get any kind of wrench to
these that has worked for me so far.

Any speedy replies to this will be greatly appreciated.. though
hopefully I can find something in the archives or elsewhere, which i'll
search as soon as I send this..


Also, can any D owners who have done the conversion to the 3.0 eagle
premier PVR please email me off list? I'd like to know what's involved,
and how much of a pain in the butt it was.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean





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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 20:36:45 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...

Hi Mike ... Going to the MN Apple Run this year?

And Can you point us to some additional info how they do that or some
drawings?  It is intriguing,

Nick ( In Buffalo)

It might be easier to look at other cars that use the same gearbox.  The
'88 and newer Esprits use the same basic box with different gear
ratios.  They are not using an angle drive like the DeLorean.  It might
be much easier to reroute a speedo cable to the gearbox (and translate
the change in rotation) than to come up with an electronic solution.

--





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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 21:52:58 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: New DMC Owner with problems

Uh.. I bought like 4 lbs of 134a when I put a new compressor on one of
our companies vans it I think I paid like $20 for it total.. It might
have been more but not much more than that. I'd have to find the
reciept.. but $50/lb for 134a is WAY overpriced...  and I didn't buy it
from anywhere special, I got it from the O'Reillys down the street from
me.  I seem to remember the compressor, accumulator, orifice tube and
freon was all $400 so $20-$30 sounds right for just the freon when I did
the van... That was at the beginning of this summer so it wasn't that
long ago.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean

Jeff Friday wrote:


>>Also, I went by a local shop the other day to check on R-12 avaialbility for
>>another DeLorean owner.  I was told it was about $100 per lb of R-12 Vs the
>>$50 or so he charged per lb of R-134a.  Perhaps you guys have it cheaper in
>>other places but he was telling me a single cylinder of R-12 (forget how
>>much he said was in it) was over 1k.
>>
>>








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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 20:28:46 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...

I once connected two stepper motors together, no power supply.  Each time
you manually rotated one the other would rotate from the power generated
from the first.  So is it possible to do the same on the D?  There may not
be enough power on the second to rotate the speedo but that is solveable.
Just thinking ... I was working on the D but when 10,000 of my closest
friend ... mosquitoes, showed up for dinner that came to an end.

Nick






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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 01:56:44 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Injectors

Thanks for the replies guys. As a matter of fact, the car runs great. 
Usually I'm here writing about how horrible it runs. But no, for days 
now it's been running fine. The spray pattern looks good [even on the 
leakiest one], I just think the injector valve isn't sealing properly 
when the car is shut off. And yes, I know the fuel distributor is not 
pressurizing the lines with the car off; but there's still pressure in 
the injectors and injector lines. I would imagine that the control 
plunger would keep the fuel from draining out of the fuel distributor 
and whole system, but..? My entire system drains, from the accumulator 
back. My system held the rest pressure great BEFORE I replaced the 
fuel distributor and CPR so I know the accumulator is good and check 
valve in the tank is good [besides, I just put a new valve in this 
April]. The only thing I notice leaking are the injectors- one more 
then the others is the injector #2 cylinder. I pull the injector out, 
wipe it down and can watch the fuel seep out and soak the injector 
tip. It will eventually flood the tip [if held upside-down] or drip 
[if held right side up]. I also notice my oil level rising on the 
sticků..-----Dani B. #5003







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