Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2841
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:5 Sep 2005 22:13:32 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: engine pulling question.. Also upgrades.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: Re: engine pulling question.. Also upgrades.
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

3. Re: engine pulling question.. Also upgrades.
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

4. Re: Second gear fork pin questions...
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

5. Re: engine pulling question.. Also upgrades.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

6. Re: DCS WEBPAGE UPDATE
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

7. RE: Re: Gift from the P.O.?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

8. Re: Second gear fork pin question
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: Second gear fork pin question
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. Re: Second gear fork pin question
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

11. OVERHEATING?
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Ebay tech guide
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

13. Re: OVERHEATING?
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

14. RE: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

15. RE: Injectors
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. RE: second gear fork pin ($10,000 question)
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: Anyone got anything clever?
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Intake Manifold Bolts
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

19. Re: OVERHEATING?
From: "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_charter.net>

20. Re: Injectors
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

21. Re: OVERHEATING?
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

22. New windshield
From: "Nikita" <inanna_rules_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Idle drops too fast
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Grrr!
From: "mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net" <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>

25. Re: second gear fork pin ($10,000 question)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 02:14:49 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: engine pulling question.. Also upgrades.

Look in the parts manual page 4/1/1. Did ou remove parts 7, 15, and 
16? They will hang you up on the flywheel. 

The two screws you mention are part of it - they have to come out. 
Lift the engine a bit and you can do it. Nice thing is that you can 
throw that part away and not re-install it. 

BTW - it is generally a bunch easier just to pull the whole thing, 
trans and all, especially when you go to put it back together. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_b...> wrote:

>>>> dealing with the transmission.. I've removed every bolt i've 

seen.. 3 on

>> the starter, 4 on the transmission bell housing, and of course the 

2 on

>> the motor mounts.. The top seems to be seperating easily but the 

bottom

>> seems to be hanging on something.. I fought with this a good 3 hours
>> today to the point I got sick of dealing with it. Are there any 

bolts

>> i'm not seeing? I know there are two on the very bottom installed 

facing

>> the front of the car, but I can't tell they're connecting the trans 

to









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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 22:31:41 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: Re: engine pulling question.. Also upgrades.

Dave Swingle wrote:


>>Look in the parts manual page 4/1/1. Did ou remove parts 7, 15, and
>>16? They will hang you up on the flywheel.
>>
>>The two screws you mention are part of it - they have to come out.
>>Lift the engine a bit and you can do it. Nice thing is that you can
>>throw that part away and not re-install it.
>>
>>BTW - it is generally a bunch easier just to pull the whole thing,
>>trans and all, especially when you go to put it back together.
>>
>>Dave Swingle
>>
>>

Thanks, I'll check for those in the morning.. And when I reinstall it, I
plan on doing it in one chunk.. but right now, taking it out will be
easier if I can get the engine delt with first.
Heh. I also just now notice I need to adjust the time on my mailserver..
My posts seem to be happening 1.5 hours in the future. :P

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.18/89 - Release Date: 9/2/2005







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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 21:33:50 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: engine pulling question.. Also upgrades.


( and of course the 2 on
 the motor mounts.. The top seems to be seperating easily but the bottom
 seems to be hanging on something..)



If I had to pull my engine againe, (which I did without pulling the trans. 
with it) I would remove the bolts holding the engine mounts to the car frame 
(2 bolts per side).   This would allow you to pull the engine straight back, 
instead of up and back (proved very difficult for me).  It's how I got the 
engine back in as well.  Those mounts, if not removed, get in the way.   You 
might have to tap on the mounts with a rubber mallet to break them loose 
from the frame.

Lingo #2034 





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 22:24:29 -0400
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Second gear fork pin questions...

Here is my understanding of how the 1st/2nd shift 
fork/rod/sliding hub work after seeing it when I replaced 
MY sheared off roll pin...


The fork slides onto the shift rod there is a "roll pin" 
on either side of the fork to keep it from sliding along 
the shaft when you shift. The fork has 2 arms that are 
round - like a 1/2 circle that the sliding gear sits in... 
the shift rod goes through a hole in the side of the fork 
to push and pull the sliding gear when you move the shift 
rod by shifting. If there were no pins the fork/hub would 
sit still and the rod would slide forward and back through 
it's mounting hole. 

Now that you understand how the forks move, if you shear 
off a pin then one way it will move the fork and the other 
way it will slide around a bit.

I believe mine was bent when I got the car and once when 
my clutch slave had leaked all fluid out I had a very hard 
time shifting to 2nd and from that day on it never acted 
the same - I believe it sheared off. I since replaced the 
pin and all transmission seals.

The pins don't always shear off smooth and there is 
usually a bit of the pin that "snags" on the fork and it 
does in fact shift. Mind you there is a spring on one side 
of the fork so as it slides through, the spring is 
compressed and as it gets more compressed it eventually 
overcomes the resistance of the transmission and it pushed 
the fork and the sliding hub to the next position.

If you look at the diagram _at_dml_ 
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewDir.asp?PageID=50&PageCat=4%2DTransmission

Michael
vin# 6067


On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 08:27:45 +0000
  "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

>>Aloha,
>>About a month ago I wrote describing the problem I was 
>>having with second 
>>gear popping out of gear every so often.  I was told by 
>>Rob that it was 
>>probably a sheared pin on the second gear fork.  I have a 
>>couple more 
>>questions about what the fork and pin do and what the 1-2 
>>slider gear does.
>>
>>I notice that every so often when shifting from first to 
>>second that second 
>>gear feels stiff and clunky.  Even before I let out the 
>>clutch.  All other 
>>gears feel smooth.  And 2nd can sometimes feel smooth. 
>> But I would say 50 
>>percent of the time second feels crunchy.  98 percent of 
>>the time it goes 
>>into 2nd gear with no grinding.  I can punch the gas and 
>>accelerate quickly 
>>through the gears with no grinding too.  When I try to 
>>get it to grind the 
>>only way I can do it is to go into first and very quickly 
>>and with VERY VERY 
>>low RPM's (sub 1500) shift to second.
>>
>>My question is does the second gear fork pin only keep 
>>the car from popping 
>>out of gear or can it also make the shifting NOT smooth? 
>>  And is there a 
>>telltale sign of a 1-2 slider gear problems vs other 
>>second gear problems?
>>
>>-Alex
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, 
>>please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale 
>>see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>






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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 02:53:29 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: engine pulling question.. Also upgrades.

Other than those 4 screws being a pain to get to (what isn't!), this 
is a great idea. I had to do this when reinstalling an engine with an 
automatic trans attached. Somehow it came out just fine, but it did 
not want to go back in to place with the mounts already on the frame. 

Things are a lot tighter on the automatic, but it would help on 
either. 

Most of this process goes a lot easier with two or three people. You 
figure out some creative stuff working alone. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>> 
>> If I had to pull my engine againe, (which I did without pulling the 

trans. 

>> with it) I would remove the bolts holding the engine mounts to the 

car frame 

>> (2 bolts per side).   This would allow you to pull the engine 

straight back, 

>> instead of up and back (proved very difficult for me).  It's how I 

got the 

>> engine back in as well.  Those mounts, if not removed, get in the 

way. 






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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 22:59:06 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DCS WEBPAGE UPDATE

The steering bushing is on the list to replace as is the turn signal  
mechanism.
I don't like its feel although it works fine
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 20:09:37 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Gift from the P.O.?

That's it, down to the zip ties.  I'll go ahead and leave this one
installed.  How often can one confidently leave a 25 year old cooling hose
in place!

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Dave Swingle

Actually I think that's a factory "mod", they use the hunk of hose to 
keep the tube from rubbing on the brake line that is just above it. 

The "giveaway" is that the zip-ties are a strange design, they look
like a "ladder" rather than the normal ones you get now. 

Dave Swingle





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 03:43:03 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Second gear fork pin question

Thanks for that great explanation.  So it sounds like a sheared pin would 
cause the second gear to feel muddy, crunchy, clunky (however best to 
describe it).  Did yours feel this way?  From my understanding if the 1-2 
slider hub is bad the car will grind nearly every time you shift the car.  
Or wont go into gear at all.  My second question is how difficult is it to 
replace the pin in the second gear fork?  Does this require a major pull 
apart of the trany?  Or is it something thats fairly easy to reach?
Mahalo,
Alex


Here is my understanding of how the 1st/2nd shift
fork/rod/sliding hub work after seeing it when I replaced
MY sheared off roll pin...









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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 04:41:20 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Second gear fork pin question

Get ready to pull apart the transmission. All but 5th is located 
inside the transmission. 5th of course is located inside but in the 
back where all you'd need to do is take off the back plate. I've 
rebuilt mine sucessfully so if you need any help or more info, E-mail 
offlist. -----Dani B. #5003

 Does this require a major pull 

>> apart of the trany?  Or is it something thats fairly easy to reach?
>> Mahalo,
>> Alex







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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 04:16:16 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Second gear fork pin question

It's way inside the trans. A 50-cent part with a bit labor bill around 
it. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>> Thanks for that great explanation.  So it sounds like a sheared pin 

would 

>> cause the second gear to feel muddy, crunchy, clunky (however best to 
>> describe it).  Did yours feel this way?  From my understanding if the 

1-2 

>> slider hub is bad the car will grind nearly every time you shift the 

car.  

>> Or wont go into gear at all.  My second question is how difficult is 

it to 

>> replace the pin in the second gear fork?  Does this require a major 

pull 

>> apart of the trany?  








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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 21:29:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: OVERHEATING?

Water bottle bubbles over cap removed, anytime the temp. reaches around 160F.  No Water cirucalation after that point, Fans do not come on because no water in the coolant pipe where the ottostat is located downsteam of the water pump (New pump).  Changed to new thermostat same result! 
 
Then I took out the themostat completely and everything is fine,
 
What Gives, Anyone ever run into this before?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 05:17:11 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Ebay tech guide

Check out the Ebay auction of the DeLo Tech guide...Thought it was 
kinda funny, you'd think the owner of this book would know it's 
DMC..."This owners guide is to the Famous AMC De Lorean". I already E-
mailed for the fix. Anyway, is it worth having this if I already have 
the workshop manual?-----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 05:24:55 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: OVERHEATING?

When you have the tank filled to the proper level and the cap 
installed, try squeezing one of the rubber lines that connect to the 
water pump [the one on the right works better]. While doing this feel 
and hear if there is any air coming out of the overflow nipple. This 
was my case, it means your cap isn't sealing and there's no pressure 
being built in the system. If this is your case, a new cap will fix it 
up. -----Dani B. #5003






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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 15:05:43 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: RE: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...

Funny, I played with that stuff, too years ago.

I guess it could work but you would have to connect it almost 
directly to the speedo. You'd have to get rid of the cables 
and the lambda counter as they would need too much force to be
turned. Without that stuff a small motor should be able to drive 
the speedo and odometer.
I had some motors with a very soft commutation that may be perfect
for this. Maybe I still can find some of them, we don't produce 
them anymore for more than 10 years....

funny...
Elvis



>> 
>> I once connected two stepper motors together, no power supply.  Each time
>> you manually rotated one the other would rotate from the power generated
>> >from the first.  So is it possible to do the same on the D?  There may
>> not
>> be enough power on the second to rotate the speedo but that is solveable.
>> Just thinking ... I was working on the D but when 10,000 of my closest
>> friend ... mosquitoes, showed up for dinner that came to an end.
>> 
>> Nick
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
>> www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 


-- GMX DSL = Maximale Leistung zum minimalen Preis! 2000 MB nur 2,99, Flatrate ab 4,99 Euro/Monat: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/dsl ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 15 Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 10:00:54 -0500 From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> Subject: RE: Injectors Dani, Opening pressure is the difference in most of the injectors unless they have different fittings. I can test the injectors real quick for leak down No charge. Then if the pattern is off, most of the time the cleaning will fix that. They have a small filter in them. John Hervey www.specialtauto. -----Original Message----- From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of stainlessilusion Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 1:17 PM To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com Subject: [DML] Injectors Seems my injectors are the cause of the fuel system loosing pressure. When the engine is off and system pressurized I notice on a few of them that the fuel is slowly seeping out of the valve. These were purchased new in 01, cleaned a year ago, and I currently have injector cleaner running through the car. Does this mean internal springs are shot? What are the differences between 0 437 502 022 injectors and the 0 437 502 047 or 004 injectors... I'm guessing the connectors? -----Dani B. #5003 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 16 Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 08:31:05 +0000 From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com> Subject: RE: second gear fork pin ($10,000 question) Here is my question and dilema: Would the job of replacing the pin be a difficult one for a average transmission shop or is this something that only a DeLorean shop should be doing? From my understanding it involves pulling the transmission apart to get to the fork but not any major "rebuild" type work. My dilema is I live in hawaii so shipping the transmission to and from a DeLorean shop would probably be about $400. If this isn't a particularly difficult transmission job it might be better to have somebody here do it. I guess my question is can an "average" transmission man do the job and/or what would you do? -Alex ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 17 Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 11:31:22 EDT From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com Subject: Re: Anyone got anything clever? Hello to all: Went to my first major show since I bought the D in May and have to say it was strange. This is a show that I go to almost every year put on by the Buffalo Octagon Association. I usually attend with a couple of MGs and am a member of the club that puts it on. First they put me in the European imports, simply because they had no idea as to where to put the D. First one they ever had there. I informed them that it was Irish and should go into British Sports. They offered to change my class but the balloting had already started so I declined. I wanted to see how it would do against a whole bunch of Porsche and BMW. The best question that I had all day was from a woman who asked me if I had bought it from a doctor she knew because it was the same color as the one he had. I had the usual strange questions about: (1) the Flux capacitor (2) how to clean the stainless steel; (3) cost; (4) Isn't that a ford engine?. Most of the questions and comments were very positive and for that I was happy. Derek , from the list, stopped by on his way to the chicken wing festival and we had a good conversation about the cars in general. At the end of the Day the D took third in class against a shit load of Porches and BMWs. Not bad for being in the wrong class. Roy #0893 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 18 Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 15:47:22 -0000 From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com> Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Bolts Thanks Dave. I have also seen the Stant ST270 model for $40 to $50 on ebay this morning. Will this model fit or work for me? Thanks, Paul --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> They run about $50 on ebay. Look for "stant 255A" 
>> 
>> Dave Swingle
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 

wrote:

>>> > Hey David,
>>> > 
>>> >,,,,,  Het, where can I buy a 
>>> > pressure tester for the coolant system?
>>> > 
>>> > Thanks,
>>> > 
>>> > Paul








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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 08:56:56 -0700
From: "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: OVERHEATING?

Did you put the thermostat back with the pellet side towards the engine ?, 
if facing away from the engine no water will get to it and it will not open.
Lloyd  #3502
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Podlewski" <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 9:29 PM
Subject: [DML] OVERHEATING?






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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 16:06:14 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Injectors

That would be great, only problem is that my DeLorean is my daily 
driver so removing the injectors and sending them off would mean I'd 
be stuck with no car. -----Dani B. #5003


>> Dani, Opening pressure is the difference in most of the injectors 

unless

>> they have different fittings. 
>> I can test the injectors real quick for leak down No charge. Then if 

the

>> pattern is off, most of the time the cleaning will fix that.
>> They have a small filter in them.
>> John Hervey








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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 11:08:56 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: OVERHEATING?


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Podlewski" <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 11:29 PM
Subject: [DML] OVERHEATING?



>> Water bottle bubbles over cap removed, anytime the temp. reaches around 
>> 160F.  <


Do you have the air-bledding system installed on your waterpump bleed valve? 
I melted an engine because of the problem you describe.  After an engine 
rebuild I installed the bleed system I purchased from SpecialTAuto.  The 
thing works like a charm.  My fans come on like they are supposed to and the 
water temp. has never exceeded 250.  I recommend looking in to installing 
the bleeder system.

Lingo #2034







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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 17:23:27 -0000
From: "Nikita" <inanna_rules_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: New windshield

I have a split in my windshield. A very large rock flew from a large 
truck and hit it. 

I know that DMCH has them and it will cost me over $600 for the 
windshield including shipping. I live in Oregon and that is a bit out 
of my price range. I am wondering if someone may sell a windshield 
that would be a little more affordable that will work on my girl?

Thank you all for your help.

Nikita








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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 17:41:59 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Idle drops too fast

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>> 

Its done it before but I dont remember how i fixed it.. I have just recently 
resealed the manifold and injuecotrt supports and had the mechanic set the 
c0 .. it has no more vacumn leaks.. seems like the only way i can get it not to 
do it is to not have the arm push the switch... then it idles a little high but the 
idle goes down nice like it should.. I spoke to John Hervey and he said it was 
probably an adjustment on the arm screws.. but he said the screw that hits the 
switch is supposed to hit that first?? I thought it was the other way around as 
some people have said.. it doesnt seem to make any difference anyway.. any 
other suggestions? I sprayed the idle motor out with wd40.. Dave..









Did this just start to happen or is it in conjunction with something 

>> you have done? It makes a difference in where to start looking.
>> 
>> If it just started you probably have a problem with the idle motor 
>> becoming sticky. You can remove the hose connecting it to the cold-
>> start valve and spray some Marvel Mystery Oil in it. Check the 
>> connections at the ignition coil - this is where the RPMs start to be 
>> monitored - also check the position of turn-on of the idle speed micro-
>> switch. There is an adjustment procedures somewhere in the manual but 
>> a quick look did not locate it - I just set it so that the switch 
>> turns on just as the throttle plates start to open. If the switch is 
>> set so the idle motor comes on too soon the idle motor is completely 
>> closed when the throttle plates close and the idle motor has a big 
>> adjustment to make to speed up the engine - which usually accounts for 
>> some lag. A sticky micro-switch (internally) can cause the same 
>> problem (replace it), poor connections can too (try disconnecting and 
>> reconnecting all connections on the idle speed motor, engine grounds, 
>> fuse, etc., to improve contact).
>> 
>> The engine has to be in good tune and free of vacuum leaks for the 
>> idle circuit to function properly - which means, you need to examine 
>> all the vacuum hoses, connections, etc., to see if the idle motor is 
>> being affected by some other issue.
>> 
>> Harold McElraft - 3354
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_y...> 
>> wrote:
>
>>> > Hey all.. just wondering if anyone has ever encountered their idle 
>
>> dropping 
>
>>> > too fast when you let off the gas... MIne is doing that for some 
>
>> reason now .. it 
>
>>> > goes down to like 500 rpms before it catchs itself and goes to 
>
>> normal idle.. I 
>
>>> > put the spring on the throttle spool on the weakest setting.. but it 
>
>> still does it.. 
>
>>> > any suggestions?? thanks..Dave.







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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 13:53:36 -0400
From: "mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net" <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>
Subject: Grrr!

Well, it had to happen: yesterday, in a parking lot, a guy in a pickup 
truck backed out of his spot without seeing me in my car (I was stopped 
between two cars in a line-up), and despite the dozen or so blasts of my 
horn and about five people standing around & yelling at him to stop, he 
backed into my passenger mirror, resulting in a fist-sized dent just 
below the mirror, and a scrape & crease from his bumper.  Luckily he was 
going slowly, so the damage is not severe, but still, it sucks.  
Especially since I've JUST retrieved my car from my mechanic's shop and 
have been driving it for about a month!  Grr!  He took off when he found 
out the police were called, because I could smell the Jack Daniels on 
him from three feet away, but I did get all his info, so I presume he 
was picked up in the meantime.  GRRR!

So, how hard is it to remove the dent?  (The crease may be there for 
good, but I'd like to at least pop out the dented part).  It's directly 
under the mirror, and looking at the door from the inside, in this area, 
there doesn't seem to be any way to access the outer skin - it's covered 
by the inner skin.  To fix it as new, I'm not looking at a new door, am 
I??  Any tips would be very much appreciated; I don't want to make it 
worse trying to hammer out the crease,etc.  I'd prefer to find somebody 
who can fix me up, since my insurance deductible will cost about as much 
as the body shop would charge.  I'm in Toronto, so any Canadian listers 
who know of a shop who can work on the DMC would could please contact me 
directly: mr.pants(at)ca.inter.net  telephone:416-752-6669

Also, I have some time off right now & I'd not be adverse to taking a 
little trip across the border to one of the many shops/vendors on the 
list who sell parts and stuff: if any of you do bodywork on the DeLorean 
& can fix my dent, I'd certainly come down for a visit.  Plus vendors 
may have spare doors or door skins, if there's such a thing and I'd be 
happy to come down to do a swap or something... Again, please e-mail me 
directly and I can send a photo if that'll help...

Thanks to all in advance...
- ed 

1982 DMC-12 (11594, still pretty even with her new scar!)






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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 16:15:46 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: second gear fork pin ($10,000 question)

I'd say this transmission is easy to work on, a local transmission 
shop that's done other manual transmission repairs would have no 
problem with this one [you may have to supply then with the manual, 
torque specs etc.]. Just as long as the differential goes back in 
the correct way which you'll have to stress to your shop. I'd paint 
one of the 'side gears' with red paint so you know when you get it 
back-it's back together correctly. If you have any doubts then send 
it off to the DeLorean experts. -----Dani B. #5003



>> 
>> Here is my question and dilema:  Would the job of replacing the 

pin be a 

>> difficult one for a average transmission shop or is this something 

that only 

>> a DeLorean shop should be doing?  From my understanding it 

involves pulling 

>> the transmission apart to get to the fork but not any 

major "rebuild" type 

>> work.
>> 
>> My dilema is I live in hawaii so shipping the transmission to and 

from a 

>> DeLorean shop would probably be about $400.  If this isn't a 

particularly 

>> difficult transmission job it might be better to have somebody 

here do it.  

>> I guess my question is can an "average" transmission man do the 

job and/or 

>> what would you do?
>> 
>> -Alex









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