Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2842
Date:5 Sep 2005 22:43:21 -0000

There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Anyone got anything clever?
From: stefan diklich <>

2. Speedo Insight...
From: "Nick Kemp" <>

3. RE: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...
From: "Nick Kemp" <>

4. Backup speedometer
From: "Nick Kemp" <>

From: "Nick Kemp" <>

From: "Harold McElraft" <>

7. Re: HID Headlight questions.
From: "Tom" <>

8. Re: second gear fork pin ($10,000 question)
From: "Dave Swingle" <>

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 14:39:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: stefan diklich <>
Subject: Re: Anyone got anything clever?

Living in canada, you wouldnt believe how many people think the delorean is a bricklin. Most people confuse the two here. wrote:
Hello to all: Went to my first major show since I bought the D in May and 
have to say it was strange. This is a show that I go to almost every year put 
on by the Buffalo Octagon Association. I usually attend with a couple of MGs 
and am a member of the club that puts it on. First they put me in the 
European imports, simply because they had no idea as to where to put the D. 
First one they ever had there. I informed them that it was Irish and should go 
into British Sports. They offered to change my class but the balloting had 
already started so I declined. I wanted to see how it would do against a whole 
bunch of Porsche and BMW. The best question that I had all day was from a 
woman who asked me if I had bought it from a doctor she knew because it was 
the same color as the one he had. I had the usual strange questions about: (1) 
the Flux capacitor (2) how to clean the stainless steel; (3) cost; (4) Isn't 
that a ford engine?. Most of the questions and comments were very positive 
and for that I was happy. Derek , from the list, stopped by on his way to 
the chicken wing festival and we had a good conversation about the cars in 
general. At the end of the Day the D took third in class against a shit load of 
Porches and BMWs. Not bad for being in the wrong class. 

Roy #0893


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 14:31:03 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <>
Subject: Speedo Insight...

I was putting the angle drive back in when it dawned on me what could be the
problem and may be the problem for many others as well.  If the angle drive
cable does not go through far enough it will not fully seat in the plastic
cup.  Then as you drive, the cable slips in the cup and the speedo jumps
around.  It appears that the cable distance protruding from the axle can be
affected by the position of the axle's two retaining nuts.  One being the
outer nut and the other the Angle drive nut.  I cannot confirm this theory
since I do not have a good angle drive cable ( it got chewed up at the end).

??? What is the correct distance that the angle drive cable protrudes from
the end of the axle?

For day one of owning this car I've fought with this.  I changed the lower
cable, disassembled the lambda counter, changed angle drives, and put in new
cups.  The speedometer always would jump around.  I suspected that the cable
was slipping in the lambda counter but have not been able to confirm one way
or another.

Just some food for thought,



Message: 3
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 14:36:36 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <>
Subject: RE: Re: Time for a new Speedo mechanism ...

I did some quick research (Google) and it turns out that there are a lot of
cars that use motors to drive the speedo needle and this goes back quite a

"It is not until the mid-1950s that automobile speed measurement enjoyed its
next major technology leap with the introduction of the electric speedo --
originally developed by VDO for city buses. Instead of communicating wheel
revolutions by means of a lengthy shaft, the rotational speed of the wheel
or transmission was transformed into an electric signal with a dynamo. An
electric motor on the speedometer then used this current to move the needle.
Parallel to this development, VDO developed a moving coil instrument in
which the voltage of the current generated by the dynamo is displayed as the
current speed. Also, a stepper motor was developed to drive the odometer. It
all fit into an 80 millimeter housing that remained the worldwide
speedometer standard well into the 1980s. "

From: (

This is especially true with electronic sensors.


Funny, I played with that stuff, too years ago.

I guess it could work but you would have to connect it almost
directly to the speedo. You'd have to get rid of the cables
and the lambda counter as they would need too much force to be
turned. Without that stuff a small motor should be able to drive
the speedo and odometer.
I had some motors with a very soft commutation that may be perfect
for this. Maybe I still can find some of them, we don't produce
them anymore for more than 10 years....


>> I once connected two stepper motors together, no power supply.  Each time
>> you manually rotated one the other would rotate from the power generated
>> >from the first.  So is it possible to do the same on the D?  There may
>> not
>> be enough power on the second to rotate the speedo but that is solveable.
>> Just thinking ... I was working on the D but when 10,000 of my closest
>> friend ... mosquitoes, showed up for dinner that came to an end.
>> Nick


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 14:32:26 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <>
Subject: Backup speedometer

Until I get my speedometer up and running, my backup is going to be a GPS
unit that shows speed.  Beats converting RPMs to speed:-)



Message: 5
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 14:38:54 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <>

Do you have the full time air bleeder fix?  Air trapped in the t'stat
housing can prevent water flow and it can take quite a while to get all the
air out.  I highly recommend the permanent bleeder valve fix.  Wither create
one from parts locally or check with any of the vendors.


-----Original Message-----
From: []On Behalf
Of John Podlewski
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 10:29 PM

Water bottle bubbles over cap removed, anytime the temp. reaches around
160F.  No Water cirucalation after that point, Fans do not come on because
no water in the coolant pipe where the ottostat is located downsteam of the
water pump (New pump).  Changed to new thermostat same result!

Then I took out the themostat completely and everything is fine,

What Gives, Anyone ever run into this before?


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 21:55:45 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <>

You're air-locked at the radiator. Take off the top vent hose at the 
radiator (passenger side top) until coolant starts to flow. Then 
follow the bleeding procedures in the manual.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...> 

>> Water bottle bubbles over cap removed, anytime the temp. reaches 

around 160F.  No Water cirucalation after that point, Fans do not 
come on because no water in the coolant pipe where the ottostat is 
located downsteam of the water pump (New pump).  Changed to new 
thermostat same result! 

>> Then I took out the themostat completely and everything is fine,
>> What Gives, Anyone ever run into this before?
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 00:11:24 +0200
From: "Tom" <>
Subject: Re: HID Headlight questions.


How about some pictures of the light distribution?? We all know what xenon 
lights look like. What is important is how those lights perform. Do they 
give the "E-coded" headlight light distribution or is it an illegal 'blob' 
of light that you aim to be somewhere in the middle of your lane? - similar 
to the US only legal sealed beams. This is the important thing!
Please, post some info and pictures that explain this.

Thank you

Tom Niemczewski ->
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...

----- Original Message ----- 

>> Chris - Ask and you shall receive!  Check out the DPNW folder in the
>> Photos section.  These pictures are of Peter's car.
>> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
>> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 20:07:33 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <>
Subject: Re: second gear fork pin ($10,000 question)

It's not all that difficult - I'm a amateur maechanic and I figured 
it out.

But - try to fine a better-than-average transmission shop. You 
probably need
to find the independent guy who works on European cars, keeps a clean 
and if you can hook up with the local BMW or Volvo club for 
so much the better. Stay away from Aamco and that like - they are 
just R&R guys and wouldn't touch it anyway.

He'll have to remove the trans from the car, remove the back end and
bellhousing (need gaskets to put back together), split  the case 
apart, fix the rollpin, inspect and/or replace the sliding gear and
synchros, and put it back together.


--- In, "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>> Here is my question and dilema:  Would the job of replacing the pin 

be a 

>> difficult one for a average transmission shop or is this something 

that only 

>> a DeLorean shop should be doing?  From my understanding it involves 


>> the transmission apart to get to the fork but not any 

major "rebuild" type 

>> work.


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