Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2846
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:8 Sep 2005 13:31:18 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: clutch fix
From: Cirillo Ronald A NPRI <cirillora_at_dml_npt.nuwc.navy.mil>

2. AW: Re: OVERHEATING?
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

3. RE: Re: newdelorean(dot)com
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

4. Re: Fanzilla Clone?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Louder Fuel Pump Buzzing after Replacing Fuel Hoses at the Fuel Pump -- Sound Deadening Help
From: Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>

6. Re: OVERHEATING?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

7. Re: OVERHEATING?
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

8. What's the Air Filter for our cars?
From: "mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net" <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>

9. Re: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. Re: newdelorean(dot)com
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. RE: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. shock increase
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

13. RE: Re: OVERHEATING?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

14. Remanufactured Delorean Is Born - Vin1510
From: "Christian Jarzab" <ccjarzab_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Accumulator area leak
From: "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Re: OVERHEATING?
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

17. Re: OVERHEATING?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

18. Re: Accumulator area leak
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

19. Re: shock increase
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>

20. RE: shock increase
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

21. Re: Remanufactured Delorean Is Born - Vin1510
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

22. Re: Accumulator area leak
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

23. Re: AW: Re: OVERHEATING?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

24. RE: Louder Fuel Pump Buzzing after Replacing Fuel Hoses at the Fuel Pump -- Sound Deadening Help
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. Re: Accumulator area leak
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 13:57:44 -0400
From: Cirillo Ronald A NPRI <cirillora_at_dml_npt.nuwc.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: clutch fix

Just had to reply to this instead of lurking.  I don't know how much use your car gets, but if it is a garage queen, it is possible for the clutch to get better by itself.  Why do I say that?  
Because if it is not used much you could end up with a clutch release bearing binding on the shaft.  This appears as a clutch slipping.  The bearing(being stuck) only allows the clutch to partially engage.
Ask me how I know that.  I just took out my transmission to replace the clutch and that is what I found.  The clutch was getting better with use but I had the parts so I decided to replace the clutch.
I replaced a perfectly good clutch and pressure plate ( I now have a spare).

Ron

 -----Original Message-----
From: 	mydmc5898 [mailto:mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent:	Saturday, September 03, 2005 10:13 PM
To:	dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject:	[DML] clutch fix

Just curious is it possible that if I have a clutch that slipped after 
every 10 min trip, to possibly fix itself?

Since the gas prices went up I used my DMC instead of my Ford to use 
some of the gas. Anyway I have used the DeLorean for the past 4 days 
in stop and go traffic and it has worked perfect, I'm having a 
starting problem. But that seems to be a problem with the distrubitor.

Just curious beacuse I haven't had any problems with it in a while.

-
Thanks Darryl
VIn 5898




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 20:01:52 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Re: OVERHEATING?

Well, so why do Renault people tell me to do it and why 
is everyting ok after about 10000 miles ?

Did that job last year and everything went well.

They milled off something like 1/10th millimeter. If this causes
any problems with the chains - wow.

Instead get a plastic header bottle with a low water warning switch
instead of  those good looking but dangerous stainless bottles. 
You never see if you are low on coolant with those.

Elvis



>From what i've read on some volvo forums about PRV's, you do NOT want 
to have any amount of the head surface removed in any circumstance. 
>From what i've come across in my research, it causes timing chain 
problems as even the slightest change in the distance of the cams 
from the crankshaft will push the chain tensioners to the limits of 
their ability to keep proper tension on the chain.. You also have to 
remember the timing cover bolts to both the block and the head, so 
changing the tolerances between the block and head would likly mean 
the timing cover wouldn't fit quite right after you torqued the heads 
down.

Granted, i've never actually rebuilt any of these engines myself.. 
but this is what my research has told me when looking in to what it 
will take to rebuild the engine in my D


Chris
VIN# 3209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean/






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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 10:59:00 -0700
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Re: newdelorean(dot)com

If newdelorean.com is a DMCH site, why are they (again) using their
competitor's names in their keywords?

"delorean one, pj grady, p.j. Grady, delorean motor center"

Gary
IN2TIME

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
DMCVIN6683
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 9:20 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: newdelorean(dot)com

It is not about a new Delorean.

The newdelorean.com site is not 'aimed' at existing DeLorean owners and 
enthusiasts. Those who expect or anticipate something earthshaking will 
be disappointed. This website, and the advertising that it is presented 
within, is directed at those who may not be familiar with DMC (Texas) 
and the cars that they offer.

Mark V


[long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 11:48:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fanzilla Clone?

Nothing on there about how (if at all) the "fan fail"
light will work.


--- DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com> wrote:


>> Are you talking about this? http://tinyurl.com/a3ehe
>> 
>> Mark V
>> 
>> 
>>



	
		
______________________________________________________
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
http://store.yahoo.com/redcross-donate3/




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 12:47:09 -0700
From: Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Louder Fuel Pump Buzzing after Replacing Fuel Hoses at the Fuel Pump -- Sound Deadening Help

Wayne, I know it sounds silly, but make sure those two lines are not laying 
down on the fuel tank. They should be in an upright position arching to the 
passenger side hard lines and facing away to the left in/out of the boot 
cover.
 Also, if you moved the pump (or removed it) it's highly possible you 
kinked/disconnected the pickup line in the tank.
 Johnny
5518

 On 9/6/05, Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote: 

>> 
>> Hello Group!
>> 
>> I just replaced my fuel hoses at the pump this past Monday with the
>> orange hoses with the teflon liner.
>> 
>> Overall, I'm happy with the teflon hose product, except... after
>> finishing the job, I noticed that my buzzy fuel pump was sounding like a
>> giant mosquito when the sound of the engine is not covering it up. It
>> was buzzy before, but now it is definately louder... on the verge of
>> being annoying. Given that the difficulty in bending the hoses made
>> things tight in the space, the hoses are definately touching the access
>> panel and maybe the bulkhead in that space. So, I think the buzzy sound
>> from the pump is getting transfered more efficiently to the bulkhead via
>> the stiffer hoses.
>> 
>> I think a little sound dampening is in order (padding the areas of the
>> access panels/bulkhead that the new hoses are touching). Anybody have
>> experience in dampening/isolating fuel pump noise? What's the opionion
>> on urethane foam? I think I can harvest appropriate chunks of it from
>> test equipment packaging. Or is this material too dense and will not
>> dampen much sound? Any other dampening options?
>> 
>> On the upside, I feel that I am getting improvement in acceleration
>> performance since the fuel hose job. Before, I used to get some degree
>> of power hesitation under heavy accelleration. Since my type of daily
>> driving didn't require me to drive like a maniac, I've learned to work
>> around that. I cannot fully explaine the improvements just yet. For
>> now I am speculating that there was partial blockage in the old hoses,
>> or some other narrowing of the hose cross section... I haven't autopsied
>> the hoses yet to see, but I know that one of the return line fittings
>> had gunk in it like cholesterol buildup in an artery. All fittings are
>> now new except for the supply side.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Wayne / VIN#2447
>> www.AA9DY.com <http://www.AA9DY.com>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 18:53:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: OVERHEATING?

You are absolutely right, messing with the heads on the PRV is no
simple task. You can get away with a very small amount of milling on
the heads. If the heads are really badly warped and you have to mill a
lot of materiel off you would have to either use a spacer or fit
multiple gaskets in to make up the difference. Neither is a good
alternative but hey, the motor got overheated really bad to warp the
heads! When a motor gets overheated that bad the heads are not the
only thing to worry about. You cooked all the seals so everything may
leak, like the seals on the liners. The oil got cooked so it may clog
up the smaller passages. Some of the tips I offer may not be the
"best" course of action but when you are faced with a motor that got
cooked you can try to patch it up and maybe be successful or replace
it. Most of us would at least try to get the motor going again. If you
do try to get it going you have to check the oil pressure and do a
compression test. Change the oil and filter, and watch for leaks. If
the motor wasn't really overcooked it should be salvageable. I have
seen motors where the wiring over the top of it was just melted like
spagettii, that's how hot it got. (Not a Delorean). Needless to say
but in such a case very little can be saved out of such a mess. This
is just one reason that if you buy a car and the motor doesn't run or
there is anti-freeze in the oil you figure the motor is toast. Just
buying a set of heads to throw onto a cooked motor may not work either
if the rest of the insides are melted.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




>> 
>> 
>> From what i've read on some volvo forums about PRV's, you do NOT want 
>> to have any amount of the head surface removed in any circumstance. 
>> From what i've come across in my research, it causes timing chain 
>> problems as even the slightest change in the distance of the cams 
>> from the crankshaft will push the chain tensioners to the limits of 
>> their ability to keep proper tension on the chain.. You also have to 
>>







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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 21:40:24 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: OVERHEATING?

PJ Grady has milled heads in the past.  There is a small tolerance
which you can do safely.

Matt
#1604


>> 
>> 
>> From what i've read on some volvo forums about PRV's, you do NOT want 
>> to have any amount of the head surface removed in any circumstance. 
>> From what i've come across in my research, it causes timing chain 
>> problems as even the slightest change in the distance of the cams 
>> from the crankshaft will push the chain tensioners to the limits of 
>> their ability to keep proper tension on the chain.. You also have to 
>> remember the timing cover bolts to both the block and the head, so 
>> changing the tolerances between the block and head would likly mean 
>> the timing cover wouldn't fit quite right after you torqued the heads 
>> down.
>> 
>> Granted, i've never actually rebuilt any of these engines myself.. 
>> but this is what my research has told me when looking in to what it 
>> will take to rebuild the engine in my D
>> 
>> 
>> Chris
>> VIN# 3209
>> http://badger.brazi.net/delorean/









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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 17:06:56 -0400
From: "mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net" <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>
Subject: What's the Air Filter for our cars?

Hello...  Was looking to replace my air filter today and do you think 
could find one?  At the parts stores, I looked up the 1981 Volvo 
260-series V6 engines and saw FRAM CA6396, which I believe is the 
correct one, but could not find one anywhere without somebody ordering 
one.  I guess I could try the Volvo dealer, but I was hoping to find one 
at a reasonable cost from Canadian Tire, Parts Source, etc.  I know I 
can order them from the US vendors, but with the exchange, shipping and 
then FedEx brokerage fees, I'd be paying almost $50 CDN a filter...   
Could any Canadian listers give me a hand here, either with where I can 
get these easily and/or a cross-reference to other brands?

Thanks in advance...
- ed
1982 DMC-12 (11594)


-- Now Playing: ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 9 Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 19:24:55 -0000 From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> Subject: Re: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ I'm the one who mentioned this kit a week or so ago; I inquired about it and ordered it, and it works just fine. I compared pictures of it with the one on SpecialTauto's page, and they were identical. For kicks I asked JC if it would work and they said if it's a K-jet, it will work. You can search Ebay for K-Jet kits for Volvos and related cars running a K-Jet system, you can get them for much cheaper-all of which will work on the DeLorean. For 50+ dollars from JC, grab it and save it if you ever have fuel troubles.-----Dani B. #5003 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 10 Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 22:41:46 -0000 From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com> Subject: Re: newdelorean(dot)com I couldn't have said it better myself, Mark! (wink) James Espey DMC (Texas) http://www.delorean.com 800/USA-DMC1 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:

>> 
>> The newdelorean.com site is not 'aimed' at existing DeLorean owners and 
>> enthusiasts. Those who expect or anticipate something earthshaking will 
>> be disappointed. This website, and the advertising that it is presented 
>> within, is directed at those who may not be familiar with DMC (Texas) 
>> and the cars that they offer.
>> 
>> Mark V
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Sep 7, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Shannon Yocom wrote:
>> 
>
>>>>> >>> snip<<
>>
>>> >
>>> > Lets hope it is September and doesn't change to October when 10/1/05 
>>> > comes &
>>> > goes.
>>> >
>>> > I'm hoping they did not add cup holders to the car. I like telling 
>>> > people at car
>>> > shows that DMC had to remove the cup holders after people kept

getting 

>>> > cokes
>>> > dumped on them when opening the doors.
>>> >
>>> > Shannon Y (anxiously awaiting the planned hype/internet buzz)
>>> > 16506







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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 15:50:08 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/

Mike, The CIS fuel injection test kit is on the web site.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Mike Bosworth
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 8:44 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/

Hi All

This fuel test kit was mentioned a while ago....Does any one actually 
have this kit?... does it have all of the 'Delorean related' 
connections needed to connect it up properly ??

Fuel Injection Tester for C.I.S.-K-Jectronic Bosch (R) Systems Kit 
ZX123617U 

Thanks for the help

Mike
#2001
Yorkshire UK




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 16:47:54 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: shock increase

Did anybody else notice that DMCH increased the price of the 
performance shocks from $179 a pair to $329 a pair.

I was going to get the rears since i already got the front performance 
shocks but not at $329 a pair, that is $164.50 a shock.

Why such a high increase?

Mark V







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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 17:01:09 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Re: OVERHEATING?

Is bleeding at the heater core required as well?
 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 6:09 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: OVERHEATING?

The self-bleeder won't help purge air trapped in the radiator.

--
Mike





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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 23:12:14 -0000
From: "Christian Jarzab" <ccjarzab_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Remanufactured Delorean Is Born - Vin1510

For those interested in what a Delorean goes through in a complete 
frame-off restoration by DMCHouston, go to the forums section of the 
dmchelp.com.  The Delorean that my wife and I purchased is featured 
and DMCH is documenting the entire build from the ground up.  The car 
will have have its original combination, black interior with 5spd and 
has the hood flap.  You can now see pictures of the donor car and 
underbody.
After meeting with Stephen, James and new Delorean owner Richard 
Rosales at the Open House, it was a no-brainer to have my dream car 
born again in Houston.

Christian Jarzab
 








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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 02:14:56 -0000
From: "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Accumulator area leak

As by the title you can guess that Ive discovered a fuel leak under 
my car right where the accumulator is at. Ive gotten under there and 
investigated and found that is comming somwhere from the area of 
where the accumulator hooks upto the metal line that goes to the fuel 
filter. I went thru the archives to see what material I could find on 
anyone whos had this problem before, and yes I found that others ahve 
had the problem, so I know ill get a lot of responses back from the 
pros who have dealt with with in the past. 

The accumulator is a spealtauto replacment that is relativly new and 
was installed by a mechanic by its previous owner. The leak is 
dripping from the L shaped unit ( Figure 1 _at_dml_  
http://jason.kitcarmagazine.com/delorean/fuelaccum.htm ) so im not 
quit sure its the metal hose intself but rather the figure 1 unit. 

If worse comes to worse then what if I have to replace the metal hose? 
what are my options here? just by looking at this I see no way how I 
can possibly just take the old metal hose out and remove it than feed 
a new one thru. I rather lost on this issue, the only thing ive done 
is attempt to tighten the 2 bolts on the figure 1 L shaped unit, alas 
no improvment from that. What should i be looking at here as far as 
damaged lines needing replacment, or likelihoods of methods to fix 
this without new lines.

Josh Tidwell
Vin: 04463






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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 22:31:29 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: OVERHEATING?

This is true.

I just had my heads refinished and it seems to be OK.  Just had to make sure 
the valves were correctly spaced>


< There is a small tolerance
 which you can do safely.>

 Matt
 #1604<





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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 03:31:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: OVERHEATING?

Those pretty S/S bottles are OK if you know what you are doing. I
check the level when cold (full to the top) and I have an overflow
bottle hooked up to the overflow line so I can see the level "just
like on those new-fangled cars". No air in the coolant system to foam
or corrode.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Well, so why do Renault people tell me to do it and why 
>> is everyting ok after about 10000 miles ?
>> 
>> Did that job last year and everything went well.
>> 
>> They milled off something like 1/10th millimeter. If this causes
>> any problems with the chains - wow.
>> 
>> Instead get a plastic header bottle with a low water warning switch
>> instead of  those good looking but dangerous stainless bottles. 
>> 








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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 22:43:07 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Accumulator area leak

Man, I was just working on the same problem with my car today.  I was 
banging my head againsts the wall because it seemed like everything I did to 
fix the leak at the L shaped line did nothing to help stop it.  I'm not 
kidding.  I was under my car today for almost eight hours.  I finally stuck 
a small O-ring (same diameter as the pipe) around the pipe and connected the 
pipe back to the accumulator.  The moment of truth came when I turned that 
ignition, heard my fuel pump whirrr, looked under my car and viola,  no 
leak.  I gave it a 10 minute test drive and wasn't choking on gas fumes 
anymore.

Hope this helps...

Lingo #2034


>> As by the title you can guess that Ive discovered a fuel leak under
>> my car right where the accumulator is at. Ive gotten under there and
>> investigated and found that is comming somwhere from the area of
>> where the accumulator hooks upto the metal line that goes to the fuel
>> filter. I went thru the archives to see what material I could find on
>> anyone whos had this problem before, and yes I found that others ahve
>> had the problem, so I know ill get a lot of responses back from the
>> pros who have dealt with with in the past.
>>
>> The accumulator is a spealtauto replacment that is relativly new and
>> was installed by a mechanic by its previous owner. The leak is
>> dripping from the L shaped unit ( Figure 1 _at_dml_
>> http://jason.kitcarmagazine.com/delorean/fuelaccum.htm ) so im not
>> quit sure its the metal hose intself but rather the figure 1 unit.
>>
>> If worse comes to worse then what if I have to replace the metal hose?
>> what are my options here? just by looking at this I see no way how I
>> can possibly just take the old metal hose out and remove it than feed
>> a new one thru. I rather lost on this issue, the only thing ive done
>> is attempt to tighten the 2 bolts on the figure 1 L shaped unit, alas
>> no improvment from that. What should i be looking at here as far as
>> damaged lines needing replacment, or likelihoods of methods to fix
>> this without new lines.
>>
>> Josh Tidwell
>> Vin: 04463





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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 07:35:40 -0000
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: shock increase

Yeah seriously!  I was just ordering the complete suspension kit for
my second DeLorean and noticed the HUGE price difference on check out.
 I thought for sure it was a mistake.  I didn't pay nearly that amount
on the first set I purchased.

I really like the DMCH suspension setup, but I am not going to fork
out $1,000 for a second set.

DMCH...what's the deal?  You guys are bustin' my rocks over here.

Dave Jacobs

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:

>> Did anybody else notice that DMCH increased the price of the 
>> performance shocks from $179 a pair to $329 a pair.
>> 
>> I was going to get the rears since i already got the front performance 
>> shocks but not at $329 a pair, that is $164.50 a shock.
>> 
>> Why such a high increase?
>> 
>> Mark V







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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 00:21:21 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: shock increase

Mark and other:
I am working on shocks right now with one of the largest performance
manufactures and springs will come in the spring. 
You know what the price will be. If you can hang on I should have some
answers soon.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
DMCVIN6683
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 3:48 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] shock increase

Did anybody else notice that DMCH increased the price of the 
performance shocks from $179 a pair to $329 a pair.

I was going to get the rears since i already got the front performance 
shocks but not at $329 a pair, that is $164.50 a shock.

Why such a high increase?

Mark V




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 10:11:17 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Remanufactured Delorean Is Born - Vin1510

Christian, that is great news!  I know how excited you must be, 
congrats on the new car!


Sandor
# 3002


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Christian Jarzab" <ccjarzab_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> For those interested in what a Delorean goes through in a complete 
>> frame-off restoration by DMCHouston, go to the forums section of the 
>> dmchelp.com.  The Delorean that my wife and I purchased is featured 
>> and DMCH is documenting the entire build from the ground up.  The 

car 

>> will have have its original combination, black interior with 5spd 

and 

>> has the hood flap.  You can now see pictures of the donor car and 
>> underbody.
>> After meeting with Stephen, James and new Delorean owner Richard 
>> Rosales at the Open House, it was a no-brainer to have my dream car 
>> born again in Houston.
>> 
>> Christian Jarzab







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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 03:36:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Accumulator area leak

Take the "L" shaped unit back out. Carefully inspect for any tiny bit
of dirt, cracks, splits, etc. If it all looks alright reassemble being
very careful to keep everything clean and not cross-thread the
fittings. Tighten very tight. If it still leaks then all the fittings
should be replaced, something is cracked, split, etc. Be very fussy
here, do not tolerate ANY leak.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> As by the title you can guess that Ive discovered a fuel leak under 
>> my car right where the accumulator is at. Ive gotten under there and 
>> investigated and found that is comming somwhere from the area of 
>> where the accumulator hooks upto the metal line that goes to the fuel 
>> filter. I went thru the archives to see what material I could find on 
>> anyone whos had this problem before, and yes I found that others ahve 
>> had the problem, so I know ill get a lot of responses back from the 
>> pr








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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 07:08:38 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: AW: Re: OVERHEATING?

Well most of us dont open the engine compartment everyday i would think 
so even if we had a clear see thru header bottle with a "WARNING DANGER 
GUAGE WITH A BLINKING LIGHT" on it we couldnt see if the coolant was 
low anyway!

When i open my engine compartment i check the coolant level.

My original header bottle was so dirty and stained i had to take off 
the cover to check the coolant level.

Do you check your coolant everyday to think that the stainless bottles 
are dangerous? Some cars made now days you cant even see the coolant 
level, you can only see the coolant cover, are these dangerous too?

People think my cruise control is dangerous too but it hasn't caused me 
any problems yet!

Mark V




On Sep 7, 2005, at 1:01 PM, Elvis Nocita wrote:


>> Well, so why do Renault people tell me to do it and why
>> is everyting ok after about 10000 miles ?
>>
>> Did that job last year and everything went well.
>>
>> They milled off something like 1/10th millimeter. If this causes
>> any problems with the chains - wow.
>>
>> Instead get a plastic header bottle with a low water warning switch
>> instead of  those good looking but dangerous stainless bottles.
>> You never see if you are low on coolant with those.
>>
>> Elvis
>>
>>
>>
>> From what i've read on some volvo forums about PRV's, you do NOT want
>> to have any amount of the head surface removed in any circumstance.
>> From what i've come across in my research, it causes timing chain
>> problems as even the slightest change in the distance of the cams
>> from the crankshaft will push the chain tensioners to the limits of
>> their ability to keep proper tension on the chain.. You also have to
>> remember the timing cover bolts to both the block and the head, so
>> changing the tolerances between the block and head would likly mean
>> the timing cover wouldn't fit quite right after you torqued the heads
>> down.
>>
>> Granted, i've never actually rebuilt any of these engines myself..
>> but this is what my research has told me when looking in to what it
>> will take to rebuild the engine in my D
>>
>>
>> Chris
>> VIN# 3209
>> http://badger.brazi.net/delorean/






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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 00:37:47 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Louder Fuel Pump Buzzing after Replacing Fuel Hoses at the Fuel Pump -- Sound Deadening Help

Wayne & Johnny
I have seen the 3000lb's orange teflon rated hose and have had the
experience of ( trying to work with it.) It's so stiff.
If it's to much to handle. 
I have a fuel pump hose kit made for fuel injection and it's very flexible,
rubber like and easy to work with.
John Hervey
   http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/fuel-injection.html

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Johnny Sawyer
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 1:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Louder Fuel Pump Buzzing after Replacing Fuel Hoses at
the Fuel Pump -- Sound Deadening Help

Wayne, I know it sounds silly, but make sure those two lines are not laying 
down on the fuel tank. They should be in an upright position arching to the 
passenger side hard lines and facing away to the left in/out of the boot 
cover.
 Also, if you moved the pump (or removed it) it's highly possible you 
kinked/disconnected the pickup line in the tank.
 Johnny
5518

 On 9/6/05, Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote: 

>> 
>> Hello Group!
>> 
>> I just replaced my fuel hoses at the pump this past Monday with the
>> orange hoses with the teflon liner.
>> 
>> Overall, I'm happy with the teflon hose product, except... after
>> finishing the job, I noticed that my buzzy fuel pump was sounding like a
>> giant mosquito when the sound of the engine is not covering it up. It
>> was buzzy before, but now it is definately louder... on the verge of
>> being annoying. Given that the difficulty in bending the hoses made
>> things tight in the space, the hoses are definately touching the access
>> panel and maybe the bulkhead in that space. So, I think the buzzy sound
>> from the pump is getting transfered more efficiently to the bulkhead via
>> the stiffer hoses.
>> 
>> I think a little sound dampening is in order (padding the areas of the
>> access panels/bulkhead that the new hoses are touching). Anybody have
>> experience in dampening/isolating fuel pump noise? What's the opionion
>> on urethane foam? I think I can harvest appropriate chunks of it from
>> test equipment packaging. Or is this material too dense and will not
>> dampen much sound? Any other dampening options?
>> 
>> On the upside, I feel that I am getting improvement in acceleration
>> performance since the fuel hose job. Before, I used to get some degree
>> of power hesitation under heavy accelleration. Since my type of daily
>> driving didn't require me to drive like a maniac, I've learned to work
>> around that. I cannot fully explaine the improvements just yet. For
>> now I am speculating that there was partial blockage in the old hoses,
>> or some other narrowing of the hose cross section... I haven't autopsied
>> the hoses yet to see, but I know that one of the return line fittings
>> had gunk in it like cholesterol buildup in an artery. All fittings are
>> now new except for the supply side.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Wayne / VIN#2447
>> www.AA9DY.com <http://www.AA9DY.com>





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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 07:47:48 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Accumulator area leak

It shouldn't be any of the steel pipes or fittings unless someone has 
been in there ahead of you.  The semi-rigid hose has split somewhere, 
probably near the upper fitting and is leaking.  Replace the hose and 
while you're there, the accumulator itself.  It's easiest to knife the 
hose off the upper fitting.  You'll twist it all up if you try to remove 
the fitting from the pipe.  Best to replace it with flexible hose and 
clamps.  This makes replacing the accumulator itself much easier, too.
We got it all.
106979-Fuel Hose, $7.50
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=1810&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
100519-Fuel Accumulator, $89.95
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=160&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
Warren at DMC



dmcjosh85 wrote:

>> As by the title you can guess that Ive discovered a fuel leak under 
>> my car right where the accumulator is at. Ive gotten under there and 
>> investigated and found that is comming somwhere from the area of 
>> where the accumulator hooks upto the metal line that goes to the fuel 
>> filter. I went thru the archives to see what material I could find on 
>> anyone whos had this problem before, and yes I found that others ahve 
>> had the problem, so I know ill get a lot of responses back from the 
>> pros who have dealt with with in the past. 
>> 
>> The accumulator is a spealtauto replacment that is relativly new and 
>> was installed by a mechanic by its previous owner. The leak is 
>> dripping from the L shaped unit ( Figure 1 _at_dml_  
>> http://jason.kitcarmagazine.com/delorean/fuelaccum.htm ) so im not 
>> quit sure its the metal hose intself but rather the figure 1 unit. 
>> 
>> If worse comes to worse then what if I have to replace the metal hose? 
>> what are my options here? just by looking at this I see no way how I 
>> can possibly just take the old metal hose out and remove it than feed 
>> a new one thru. I rather lost on this issue, the only thing ive done 
>> is attempt to tighten the 2 bolts on the figure 1 L shaped unit, alas 
>> no improvment from that. What should i be looking at here as far as 
>> damaged lines needing replacment, or likelihoods of methods to fix 
>> this without new lines.
>> 
>> Josh Tidwell
>> Vin: 04463





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