Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2847
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:8 Sep 2005 21:52:46 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

2. RE: Accumulator area leak
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. RE: Re: OVERHEATING?
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

4. Re: Fanzilla Clone?
From: "Duke" <at88mph_at_dml_att.net>

5. Re: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!
From: Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. RE: What's the Air Filter for our cars?
From: "Michael Fischer" <michael.fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 12:57:54 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!

Hello everyone,

I just finished changing my water pump, hoses, Valley of Death clean-
up, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor.  When I tried to start the car 
this morning, it turned over, started briefly for a couple of 
seconds, revved to around 1100 rpms, then quickly died!  On another 
attempt, I tried playing with the gas pedal to keep it running when 
it started.  I managed a few more seconds, but nothing steady.  As 
soon as my foot releases the pedal, it dies.

I believed I was very thorough with the spark plug and cap wire 
order, fuel line assembly, etc.  Could I have knocked some idle 
adjustment out of whack when I removed the throttle cable spool?  
Where should I start to get the car running again? 

Before I did this work, the car purred like a kitten, but wanted to 
change plugs, wires, and water pump for preventative maintenance.  I 
didn't know how old the plugs and wires were.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944








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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 00:17:34 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Accumulator area leak

Josh, if he didn't cross thread the fitting, then tighten it up a little
more and it should stop leaking. Those are new Bosch units, not NOS.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
dmcjosh85
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 8:15 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Accumulator area leak

As by the title you can guess that Ive discovered a fuel leak under 
my car right where the accumulator is at. Ive gotten under there and 
investigated and found that is comming somwhere from the area of 
where the accumulator hooks upto the metal line that goes to the fuel 
filter. I went thru the archives to see what material I could find on 
anyone whos had this problem before, and yes I found that others ahve 
had the problem, so I know ill get a lot of responses back from the 
pros who have dealt with with in the past. 

The accumulator is a spealtauto replacment that is relativly new and 
was installed by a mechanic by its previous owner. The leak is 
dripping from the L shaped unit ( Figure 1 _at_dml_  
http://jason.kitcarmagazine.com/delorean/fuelaccum.htm ) so im not 
quit sure its the metal hose intself but rather the figure 1 unit. 

If worse comes to worse then what if I have to replace the metal hose? 
what are my options here? just by looking at this I see no way how I 
can possibly just take the old metal hose out and remove it than feed 
a new one thru. I rather lost on this issue, the only thing ive done 
is attempt to tighten the 2 bolts on the figure 1 L shaped unit, alas 
no improvment from that. What should i be looking at here as far as 
damaged lines needing replacment, or likelihoods of methods to fix 
this without new lines.

Josh Tidwell
Vin: 04463




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 14:13:48 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: Re: OVERHEATING?

Tom 

The heater core should be purged of air automatically with the way 
the water is circulated in the system.  

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>: -------------- 



>> Is bleeding at the heater core required as well? 
>> 
>> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 09:52:08 -0500
From: "Duke" <at88mph_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Fanzilla Clone?

I just bought one.  Before I bought it, I emailed the seller and asked him
about the 'fan fail' light option and he said it doesn't come with that
ability but that they could add it and make it function. He also said it
does stagger the fans with a 3 second delay.

Looking at his other auctions, the guy seems to know what he's doing
and has very positive feedback.  I'll try the unit out and let everyone
know.

Duke


----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Almy" <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Fanzilla Clone?



>> From the photograph, it looks like it doesn't have any wiring for the Fan
>> Fail light. This means it won't light up if one of the fans fail like with
>> the Fanzilla or if the fans turn on with the 2x2. However, it doesn't say
>> if it stagers the fans off as well. Not as important as turning them on
>> stagered, but the Fanzilla does this.
>>






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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 08:30:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!

Pop the cap off and make shure none of the metal pins
that make contack with the rotor are twisted/turned
slightly.(Sometimes when caps are made, the metal pins
slip before they are secure in the plastic that makes
the cap.) Also, it is possible that one or more of
your new wires are faulty. Does some one on this list
know how to check for that?
Hope this helps.

--- sweetp01569 <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com> wrote:


>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I just finished changing my water pump, hoses,
>> Valley of Death clean-
>> up, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor.  When I tried to
>> start the car 
>> this morning, it turned over, started briefly for a
>> couple of 
>> seconds, revved to around 1100 rpms, then quickly
>> died!  On another 
>> attempt, I tried playing with the gas pedal to keep
>> it running when 
>> it started.  I managed a few more seconds, but
>> nothing steady.  As 
>> soon as my foot releases the pedal, it dies.
>> 
>> I believed I was very thorough with the spark plug
>> and cap wire 
>> order, fuel line assembly, etc.  Could I have
>> knocked some idle 
>> adjustment out of whack when I removed the throttle
>> cable spool?  
>> Where should I start to get the car running again? 
>> 
>> Before I did this work, the car purred like a
>> kitten, but wanted to 
>> change plugs, wires, and water pump for preventative
>> maintenance.  I 
>> didn't know how old the plugs and wires were.
>> 
>> Any advice would be appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Paul
>> Vin 10944






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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 09:21:26 -0600
From: "Michael Fischer" <michael.fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com>
Subject: RE: What's the Air Filter for our cars?

 Hi Ed,

As a fellow Canadian .. I hear yah...

Unfortunately I have yet to have much luck with local parts stores and the D
.. In fact the few parts I've found at Canadian Tire etc.  have often been
more expensive (or at least on par) with ordering them from a vendor ..  And
if you include your time phoning around and hunting, then they are often
more expensive.  (A thermostat was the latest example .. $30CDN at Canuck
Tire .. And they'd have to order it, vs. $12USD from a vendor)

  I've found the best way to do things is just bite the bullet and order
several things all at once ... Save on shipping that way by combining them..
And it's easy to predict what you'll need/wabnt.  

And never NEVER NEVER use FedEx or UPS etc.  They will screw you with
Brokerage fees etc. all the time ... Doesn't matter what.

  Just have thigns sent postal service .. Usually takes about 3 weeks to get
stuff ... Most vendors will label things eithe "gift" or "antique auto
parts"  which will avoid most of the Bureaucratic crap.

  You might still get a bill for the PST .. That used to happen when I was
in BC .. But I'm back in Alberta now .. So no problem there.

  I know this won't help if you need an air filter ASAP....

Maybe we need to lobby DMCH to open a DMC-CA outlet....

Mike
17106, '83 Canadian Edition

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 3:07 PM
To: DMC_News
Subject: [DML] What's the Air Filter for our cars?

Hello...  Was looking to replace my air filter today and do you think could
find one?  At the parts stores, I looked up the 1981 Volvo 260-series V6
engines and saw FRAM CA6396, which I believe is the correct one, but could
not find one anywhere without somebody ordering one.  I guess I could try
the Volvo dealer, but I was hoping to find one at a reasonable cost from
Canadian Tire, Parts Source, etc.  I know I can order them from the US
vendors, but with the exchange, shipping and 
then FedEx brokerage fees, I'd be paying almost $50 CDN a filter...   
Could any Canadian listers give me a hand here, either with where I can get
these easily and/or a cross-reference to other brands?

Thanks in advance...
- ed
1982 DMC-12 (11594)




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