Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2848
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:9 Sep 2005 01:06:54 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: What's the Air Filter for our cars?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

2. Window button arrows
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

3. RE: What's the Air Filter for our cars?
From: Cirillo Ronald A NPRI <cirillora_at_dml_npt.nuwc.navy.mil>

4. Re: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

5. Re: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!
From: Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

7. Re: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

8. Re: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

9. Bill Millers Car and Shocks
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

10. AW: AW: Re: OVERHEATING?
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

11. Re: AW: Re: OVERHEATING?
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Re: OVERHEATING?
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Re: Re: OVERHEATING?
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Hard start issue?
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

15. RE: What's the Air Filter for our cars?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. RE: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. UK's catalytic converter pipes
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

18. RE: shock increase
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net

19. air filter
From: Steve Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

20. Motor Trend May 1981 Wanted
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

21. K&N Oil Filter
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Production twin turbo PRV
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

23. Re: What's the Air Filter for our cars?
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>

24. Re: Hard start issue?
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

25. Re: Motor Trend May 1981 Wanted
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 08:44:20 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: What's the Air Filter for our cars?

Ed:

Aren't you just across the border?  One way you might get it faster is
to check with Fedex - usually you can arrange to have a shipment held at
one of their processing centers rather than delivered to an address.
You can have a Vendor fedex the gear you need to whatever Fedex center
is just across the border from you - then come over to pick them up at
the counter. 

Just a thought...

Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Michael Fischer
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 8:21 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] What's the Air Filter for our cars?

 Hi Ed,

As a fellow Canadian .. I hear yah...

Unfortunately I have yet to have much luck with local parts stores and
the D .. In fact the few parts I've found at Canadian Tire etc.  have
often been more expensive (or at least on par) with ordering them from a
vendor ..  And if you include your time phoning around and hunting, then
they are often more expensive.  (A thermostat was the latest example ..
$30CDN at Canuck Tire .. And they'd have to order it, vs. $12USD from a
vendor)

  I've found the best way to do things is just bite the bullet and order
several things all at once ... Save on shipping that way by combining
them..
And it's easy to predict what you'll need/wabnt.  

And never NEVER NEVER use FedEx or UPS etc.  They will screw you with
Brokerage fees etc. all the time ... Doesn't matter what.

  Just have thigns sent postal service .. Usually takes about 3 weeks to
get stuff ... Most vendors will label things eithe "gift" or "antique
auto parts"  which will avoid most of the Bureaucratic crap.

  You might still get a bill for the PST .. That used to happen when I
was in BC .. But I'm back in Alberta now .. So no problem there.

  I know this won't help if you need an air filter ASAP....

Maybe we need to lobby DMCH to open a DMC-CA outlet....

Mike
17106, '83 Canadian Edition

[long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 08:59:25 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Window button arrows

I'm sending my window switches off to John to have them refurbished,
but the arrows are faded and nearly gone.  I've seen decals on a German
site, but what are the other options for freshening up the buttons?
Does anyone have stencils?

Tom Tait




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 11:42:34 -0400
From: Cirillo Ronald A NPRI <cirillora_at_dml_npt.nuwc.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: What's the Air Filter for our cars?

Ed,  

I don't have any experience for the list below but this is from an old cross reference chart.  I don't know if you have any of these brands up North but you might want to check it out.




Ron

 -----Original Message-----
From: 	mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net [mailto:mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net] 
Sent:	Wednesday, September 07, 2005 5:07 PM
To:	DMC_News
Subject:	[DML] What's the Air Filter for our cars?

Hello...  Was looking to replace my air filter today and do you think 
could find one?  At the parts stores, I looked up the 1981 Volvo 
260-series V6 engines and saw FRAM CA6396, which I believe is the 
correct one, but could not find one anywhere without somebody ordering 
one.  I guess I could try the Volvo dealer, but I was hoping to find one 
at a reasonable cost from Canadian Tire, Parts Source, etc.  I know I 
can order them from the US vendors, but with the exchange, shipping and 
then FedEx brokerage fees, I'd be paying almost $50 CDN a filter...   
Could any Canadian listers give me a hand here, either with where I can 
get these easily and/or a cross-reference to other brands?

Thanks in advance...
- ed
1982 DMC-12 (11594)




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 17:00:23 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!

Thanks for the advice everyone, but I found my mistake,

That brass pipe with the angled end that slips into the bottom of 
the venturi assembly slipped out.  I reinserted and it worked fine.

Thanks again,

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> Pop the cap off and make shure none of the metal pins
>> that make contack with the rotor are twisted/turned
>> slightly.(Sometimes when caps are made, the metal pins
>> slip before they are secure in the plastic that makes
>> the cap.) Also, it is possible that one or more of
>> your new wires are faulty. Does some one on this list
>> know how to check for that?
>> Hope this helps.
>> 
>> --- sweetp01569 <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>> 
>
>>> > Hello everyone,
>>> > 
>>> > I just finished changing my water pump, hoses,
>>> > Valley of Death clean-
>>> > up, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor.  When I tried to
>>> > start the car 
>>> > this morning, it turned over, started briefly for a
>>> > couple of 
>>> > seconds, revved to around 1100 rpms, then quickly
>>> > died!  On another 
>>> > attempt, I tried playing with the gas pedal to keep
>>> > it running when 
>>> > it started.  I managed a few more seconds, but
>>> > nothing steady.  As 
>>> > soon as my foot releases the pedal, it dies.
>>> > 
>>> > I believed I was very thorough with the spark plug
>>> > and cap wire 
>>> > order, fuel line assembly, etc.  Could I have
>>> > knocked some idle 
>>> > adjustment out of whack when I removed the throttle
>>> > cable spool?  
>>> > Where should I start to get the car running again? 
>>> > 
>>> > Before I did this work, the car purred like a
>>> > kitten, but wanted to 
>>> > change plugs, wires, and water pump for preventative
>>> > maintenance.  I 
>>> > didn't know how old the plugs and wires were.
>>> > 
>>> > Any advice would be appreciated.
>>> > 
>>> > Thanks,
>>> > 
>>> > Paul
>>> > Vin 10944







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 10:06:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!

Did you knock any of the fuel injectors(or injector
wires) out of place?
Check your timeing, if your distributer was loose when
you changed the cap & roter, then your timeing could
have been thrown way off.



--- Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:


>> Pop the cap off and make shure none of the metal
>> pins
>> that make contack with the rotor are twisted/turned
>> slightly.(Sometimes when caps are made, the metal
>> pins
>> slip before they are secure in the plastic that
>> makes
>> the cap.) Also, it is possible that one or more of
>> your new wires are faulty. Does some one on this
>> list
>> know how to check for that?
>> Hope this helps.
>> 
>> --- sweetp01569 <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com> wrote:
>> 
>
>>> > Hello everyone,
>>> > 
>>> > I just finished changing my water pump, hoses,
>>> > Valley of Death clean-
>>> > up, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor.  When I tried
>
>> to
>
>>> > start the car 
>>> > this morning, it turned over, started briefly for
>
>> a
>
>>> > couple of 
>>> > seconds, revved to around 1100 rpms, then quickly
>>> > died!  On another 
>>> > attempt, I tried playing with the gas pedal to
>
>> keep
>
>>> > it running when 
>>> > it started.  I managed a few more seconds, but
>>> > nothing steady.  As 
>>> > soon as my foot releases the pedal, it dies.
>>> > 
>>> > I believed I was very thorough with the spark plug
>>> > and cap wire 
>>> > order, fuel line assembly, etc.  Could I have
>>> > knocked some idle 
>>> > adjustment out of whack when I removed the
>
>> throttle
>
>>> > cable spool?  
>>> > Where should I start to get the car running again?
>
>> 
>
>>> > 
>>> > Before I did this work, the car purred like a
>>> > kitten, but wanted to 
>>> > change plugs, wires, and water pump for
>
>> preventative
>
>>> > maintenance.  I 
>>> > didn't know how old the plugs and wires were.
>>> > 
>>> > Any advice would be appreciated.
>>> > 
>>> > Thanks,
>>> > 
>>> > Paul
>>> > Vin 10944





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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 17:16:48 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!

Go over all your work slowly and carefully. Better yet have another
person with a fresh set of eyes look it over if you can. Look for
something out-of-place, a vacuum hose not connected, dist cap not on
correctly, firing order messed up, etc. Make sure that the throttle
arm is tripping the idle micro and you plugged it into the white
connector. Make sure you reconnected ALL the ground wires on both
sides of the intake manifold. Make sure the spark plug wires are
snapped onto the spark plugs. Check that you put all the fuel lines
back correctly. Check that the air tube for the idle motor is in and
not leaking. It is obviously something you did so all your work is
suspect. It is also possible (not likely) that one of the new parts
you installed is defective. Most common is a couple of vacuum leaks
which will keep it from idling right.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Pop the cap off and make shure none of the metal pins
>> that make contack with the rotor are twisted/turned
>> slightly.(Sometimes when caps are made, the metal pins
>> slip before they are secure in the plastic that makes
>> the cap.) Also, it is possible that one or more of
>> your new wires are faulty. Does some one on this list
>> kn








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 17:20:32 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!

The car ran smoothly for several minutes, then the idle started to 
go up and down, and it stalled a couple of times.  Still a vacuum 
leak, possibly?

Thanks,

Paul--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jonathan Minor 
<malletslinger_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Pop the cap off and make shure none of the metal pins
>> that make contack with the rotor are twisted/turned
>> slightly.(Sometimes when caps are made, the metal pins
>> slip before they are secure in the plastic that makes
>> the cap.) Also, it is possible that one or more of
>> your new wires are faulty. Does some one on this list
>> know how to check for that?
>> Hope this helps.
>> 
>> --- sweetp01569 <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>> 
>
>>> > Hello everyone,
>>> > 
>>> > I just finished changing my water pump, hoses,
>>> > Valley of Death clean-
>>> > up, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor.  When I tried to
>>> > start the car 
>>> > this morning, it turned over, started briefly for a
>>> > couple of 
>>> > seconds, revved to around 1100 rpms, then quickly
>>> > died!  On another 
>>> > attempt, I tried playing with the gas pedal to keep
>>> > it running when 
>>> > it started.  I managed a few more seconds, but
>>> > nothing steady.  As 
>>> > soon as my foot releases the pedal, it dies.
>>> > 
>>> > I believed I was very thorough with the spark plug
>>> > and cap wire 
>>> > order, fuel line assembly, etc.  Could I have
>>> > knocked some idle 
>>> > adjustment out of whack when I removed the throttle
>>> > cable spool?  
>>> > Where should I start to get the car running again? 
>>> > 
>>> > Before I did this work, the car purred like a
>>> > kitten, but wanted to 
>>> > change plugs, wires, and water pump for preventative
>>> > maintenance.  I 
>>> > didn't know how old the plugs and wires were.
>>> > 
>>> > Any advice would be appreciated.
>>> > 
>>> > Thanks,
>>> > 
>>> > Paul
>>> > Vin 10944







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 18:29:35 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!

Just adding to the description of my issue.  The idle is relatively 
smooth from cold start, until the engine gets up to temperature.  
Then the idle starts to get erratic, going up and down, almost 
stalling like it's trying to catch itself, then revs high for a 
second, then up and down again...

Not sure what is causing this.

Paul


i--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> Pop the cap off and make shure none of the metal pins
>> that make contack with the rotor are twisted/turned
>> slightly.(Sometimes when caps are made, the metal pins
>> slip before they are secure in the plastic that makes
>> the cap.) Also, it is possible that one or more of
>> your new wires are faulty. Does some one on this list
>> know how to check for that?
>> Hope this helps.
>> 
>> --- sweetp01569 <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>> 
>
>>> > Hello everyone,
>>> > 
>>> > I just finished changing my water pump, hoses,
>>> > Valley of Death clean-
>>> > up, spark plugs, res, cap, rotor.  When I tried to
>>> > start the car 
>>> > this morning, it turned over, started briefly for a
>>> > couple of 
>>> > seconds, revved to around 1100 rpms, then quickly
>>> > died!  On another 
>>> > attempt, I tried playing with the gas pedal to keep
>>> > it running when 
>>> > it started.  I managed a few more seconds, but
>>> > nothing steady.  As 
>>> > soon as my foot releases the pedal, it dies.
>>> > 
>>> > I believed I was very thorough with the spark plug
>>> > and cap wire 
>>> > order, fuel line assembly, etc.  Could I have
>>> > knocked some idle 
>>> > adjustment out of whack when I removed the throttle
>>> > cable spool?  
>>> > Where should I start to get the car running again? 
>>> > 
>>> > Before I did this work, the car purred like a
>>> > kitten, but wanted to 
>>> > change plugs, wires, and water pump for preventative
>>> > maintenance.  I 
>>> > didn't know how old the plugs and wires were.
>>> > 
>>> > Any advice would be appreciated.
>>> > 
>>> > Thanks,
>>> > 
>>> > Paul
>>> > Vin 10944







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 14:29:33 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Bill Millers Car and Shocks

The story on Bill Millers car is a bit out of proportion 
I talked to Bill and someone vandalized his car in the rear by pulling off the rear lights and liscence plate bracket 
both have been repaired 
The rear fascia is still on the car.
 
AS far as shocks 
If you all remember I used to make shocks for Rob and we were between DMCH and Marty  in cost plus they were adjustable.
 
We got a lot of great comments and one bad one from Walt but sales died so we stopped making them.
Without volume we could not keep doing it and holding onto large inventories.
 
No we are not going to make them again.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 20:39:50 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: AW: Re: OVERHEATING?

Mark,

no the stainless bottel isn't dangerous, but being low on water 
is dangerous especially on our cars. I had to fix my
head gaskets because I couldn't see the coolant level.
The light you are talking about is the otherways useless LAMBDA
light in the binacle.  Also the buzzer turns on now.

Just for the optical thing, I never thought I would ever replace 
my stainless bottle with a plastic one. But I learned my lesson.
It makes me feel much better now to know that it will warn me
before it breaks again. It happened at the wedding of my boss
and the whole day was a mess, don't need that again  ;-) 

Cars nowadays do have exactly this warning lamp, too.
I think it is much more important than the fan fail lamp...

Several cars over here have this feature now, too.

Price ? Ridiculously low....


Elvis

P.S. I'd love to have a cruise control, too, but it doesn't make
too much sense over here, otherwise I would already have it.



Well most of us dont open the engine compartment everyday i would think 
so even if we had a clear see thru header bottle with a "WARNING DANGER 
GUAGE WITH A BLINKING LIGHT" on it we couldnt see if the coolant was 
low anyway!

When i open my engine compartment i check the coolant level.

My original header bottle was so dirty and stained i had to take off 
the cover to check the coolant level.

Do you check your coolant everyday to think that the stainless bottles 
are dangerous? Some cars made now days you cant even see the coolant 
level, you can only see the coolant cover, are these dangerous too?

People think my cruise control is dangerous too but it hasn't caused me 
any problems yet!

Mark V






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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 19:46:00 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: AW: Re: OVERHEATING?

The problem is that if you face the head too much, you throw the cam 
timing out and your timing cover bolts won't line up. If you're facing 
the heads because the heads have warped the result will be that the 
camshaft is no longer strait and this will die pretty quickly. Taking a 
couple of thou off to create a perfectly clean, flat surface for 
re-mating is okay. I've done it several times.

The argument about the chain tensionsers is nonsense, I know a PRV tuner 
who's taken over a mm off the surface to raise the compression. He used 
verniers to re-time the cams correctly, and added dished pistons, steel 
crank and high lift cams to raise things to 11:1 and gets 270+bhp from a 
carb'd 2664cc odd-fire.

Don't ask me "how do I go about doing this" please....  :-)  It's easy if 
you have the cash.

Martin


>>
>>>From what i've read on some volvo forums about PRV's, you do NOT want 
>>to have any amount of the head surface removed in any circumstance. 
>>>From what i've come across in my research, it causes timing chain 
>>problems as even the slightest change in the distance of the cams 

>from the crankshaft will push the chain tensioners to the limits of 

>>their ability to keep proper tension on the chain.. You also have to 
>>remember the timing cover bolts to both the block and the head, so 
>>changing the tolerances between the block and head would likly mean 
>>the timing cover wouldn't fit quite right after you torqued the heads 
>>down.
>>
>>Granted, i've never actually rebuilt any of these engines myself.. 
>>but this is what my research has told me when looking in to what it 
>>will take to rebuild the engine in my D
>>
>>
>>Chris
>>VIN# 3209
>>http://badger.brazi.net/delorean/
>>
>>  
>>








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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 19:51:52 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: OVERHEATING?

One very, very simple suggestion that has caught me out in the past. I 
find I need to do this every time I do a pump because the current 
workshop has a very slight slope to the floor.

Jack the back of the car up, then run it up and bleed the air out.

Martin

John Podlewski wrote:


>>Once I install the thermostat (the right way of coarse) it begins to overheat _at_dml_ about 175F. No water in coolant pipe where to otterstat is located, no water circulation and fans do not come on-because no water in that pipe.  Hoping a 3rd thermostat is the trick--can't think of anything else.
>>









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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 19:54:42 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: OVERHEATING?

BTW the self-bleed kit works great, but there's one problem which I've 
never noticed anyone mention: The hose MUST go "uphill" otherwise you 
create a U-bend and the air will get trapped in the top of the pump just 
the same

We've started making our cooland bottles with an extra connection at the 
top of the rear of the bottle allowing easy connection of the self-bleed 
hose, which in turn is much shorter.

Martin






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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 19:19:20 -0000
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Hard start issue?

Ok, heres what happened, 

     I drove the delorean to school today ( and dont worry i have a 
fairly small school where i dont have to worry about people 
vandelizing the car) and this is my 3rd day driving it. The first 
day when i go home the car starts up fine and takes me home. The 
second day it wont start, but about the tird try it finally turns 
over and starts. Now this is making me nervous. 

 I talked myself into brining it to school today and see if it was 
just a fluke. Well it starts up fine every morning out of my garage. 
But after school i go to start it, it wont start. its trying to turn 
over but just wont. So after about the 6th try i give up, call my 
dad to pick me up. He tries it twice and it starts. But he had to 
pump the gas pedal and put it right to the floor to get it to start. 
So i have the car now in my garage. and im not taking it to school 
again for a while until i solve this problem. The weird thing is 
that it happend two days in a row. the second day the worst, and its 
as if, when it sits in the sun all day, it wont work, but i can 
start it after sitting a few days in my garage. Could the 
temperature outside have anything to do with this? I dont think it 
would but maybe im wrong.

So if anybody here has any idea of why this is happening or what 
valves to check etc. Let me know. Thanks everybody and i appreciate 
the help.

PS this was happening to me before when i first got the car but all 
i did was just change the spark plugs (because they were 
contaminated) and it started up fine for the last 3 months. 







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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 14:29:00 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: What's the Air Filter for our cars?

Ed & Michael, I ship to Canada all the time as well as all countries and can
help you save money on import duty all over the world.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Michael Fischer
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 9:21 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] What's the Air Filter for our cars?

 Hi Ed,

As a fellow Canadian .. I hear yah...

Unfortunately I have yet to have much luck with local parts stores and the D
.. In fact the few parts I've found at Canadian Tire etc.  have often been
more expensive (or at least on par) with ordering them from a vendor ..  And
if you include your time phoning around and hunting, then they are often
more expensive.  (A thermostat was the latest example .. $30CDN at Canuck
Tire .. And they'd have to order it, vs. $12USD from a vendor)

  I've found the best way to do things is just bite the bullet and order
several things all at once ... Save on shipping that way by combining them..
And it's easy to predict what you'll need/wabnt.  

And never NEVER NEVER use FedEx or UPS etc.  They will screw you with
Brokerage fees etc. all the time ... Doesn't matter what.

  Just have thigns sent postal service .. Usually takes about 3 weeks to get
stuff ... Most vendors will label things eithe "gift" or "antique auto
parts"  which will avoid most of the Bureaucratic crap.

  You might still get a bill for the PST .. That used to happen when I was
in BC .. But I'm back in Alberta now .. So no problem there.

  I know this won't help if you need an air filter ASAP....

Maybe we need to lobby DMCH to open a DMC-CA outlet....

Mike
17106, '83 Canadian Edition


[long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 14:48:15 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!

Paul, Must have knocked something loose. Vacuum hose, throttle linkage or
maybe the adjustment something like that.
John Hervey

  

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
sweetp01569
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 6:58 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] HELP - Can't get car running after maintenance!

Hello everyone,

I just finished changing my water pump, hoses, Valley of Death clean-
up, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor.  When I tried to start the car 
this morning, it turned over, started briefly for a couple of 
seconds, revved to around 1100 rpms, then quickly died!  On another 
attempt, I tried playing with the gas pedal to keep it running when 
it started.  I managed a few more seconds, but nothing steady.  As 
soon as my foot releases the pedal, it dies.

I believed I was very thorough with the spark plug and cap wire 
order, fuel line assembly, etc.  Could I have knocked some idle 
adjustment out of whack when I removed the throttle cable spool?  
Where should I start to get the car running again? 

Before I did this work, the car purred like a kitten, but wanted to 
change plugs, wires, and water pump for preventative maintenance.  I 
didn't know how old the plugs and wires were.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 22:30:53 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: UK's catalytic converter pipes

If anyone has Stainless Exhaust Specialist's catalytic converter
pipes, and you're willing to sell or looking to trade(+$) for the
non-cat pipes, please E-mail me offlist! -----Dani B. #5003






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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 22:57:39 +0000
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: RE: shock increase


I have PJ Grady's rear performance shocks which have adjustable collars as well.  The ride is excellent.  They also looks stock as they are grey in collar.  You may want to check them out.   www.pjgrady.com  

Gary

<<Did anybody else notice that DMCH increased the price of the 
performance shocks from $179 a pair to $329 a pair.

I was going to get the rears since i already got the front performance 
shocks but not at $329 a pair, that is $164.50 a shock.

Why such a high increase?

Mark V>>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 19:33:55 -0400
From: Steve Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: air filter

Ed,

    For an after market air filter I use a Purolator A14275. Never had a 
problem finding one here. Works fine.

Steve




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 23:52:02 +0100
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: Motor Trend May 1981 Wanted

Hi Everyone

Looking for a copy of this magazine which features my car              RIA 7124.....

I will pay for a good copy of this plus shippage to Ireland, If anyone can help me then please get in touch.

Alistair McCann
Belfast.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 17:00:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: K&N Oil Filter

Does anyone know the part number for the K&N
performance Gold oil filter for our cars (if there is
one?)

They are $12.96 at Advanced Auto.  Are they any
good....


Tom
#5732

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 09 Sep 2005 01:00:09 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Production twin turbo PRV

Hi All

Just thought you might like to see what the only production twin turbo 
PRV went into (4WD too)

http://cgi.ebay.fr/vends-safrane-biturbo-baccara_W0QQitemZ4572329767

A better engine photo

http://www.biturbo.foxnet.pl/Galeria/Samochody/RenaultSafrane/safrane5.jpg

268bhp and 370Nm of torque according to a website I found. It is a later 
more refined version of the A610 engine. I'd be very interested in boost 
figures because all the other Renault turbo PRV's came out the factory 
at 8psi and the stock ECU is good for 14psi

Martin





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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 20:51:15 -0400
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>
Subject: Re: What's the Air Filter for our cars?

[Moderator Note:  Air filter conversations are fine, but please take discussions of international shipping or private business arrangements away from the DML.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]



I think you might be thinking of me in Niagara Falls Ont. I think the
"other" Mike is in Alberta and probably no where near the border. I can
understand the shipping problems. A purchase of 20.00 can end up being an
extra 30.00 when the excessive brokerage charges kick in. That's why I
simply got a mail box in Niagara Falls NY - it pays for itself.

I too went for the hunt for an air filter - my car had the original one
still installed. I carried that thing in my car for a week. I found filters
the right width or length but not both and no one had anything close unless
I special ordered it. 3 days after ordering it from a US vendor I got it.

Mike, if you want to send me a private email maybe we can arrange to use my
mailbox and I can slip it in the Canadian mail - it will be a lot cheaper
and probably will get to you in half the time.

Mike Walsh
#17084
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 11:44 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] What's the Air Filter for our cars?



>> Ed:
>>
>> Aren't you just across the border?  One way you might get it faster is
>> to check with Fedex - usually you can arrange to have a shipment held at
>> one of their processing centers rather than delivered to an address.
>> You can have a Vendor fedex the gear you need to whatever Fedex center
>> is just across the border from you - then come over to pick them up at
>> the counter.
>>
>> Just a thought...
>>
>> Tom
>>[long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 20:55:18 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Hard start issue?

Hey, I just had this exact problem with my car a few weeks ago.  It finally 
turned out to be a bad Thermo-Time Switch.  This is the temperature switch 
that tells the cold start valve to fire when the coolant is 95 F or below. 
As a temporary workaround until I can get the new switch I manually ground 
the cold start valve by putting a jumper from the blue-black wire on the TTS 
connector to a good ground, like the intake.  This will force the cold start 
valve to fire even if the coolant is not 95 F or below.  If this works, by a 
new switch, all the vendors have them for around $30.  It's located on the 
left side of the water pump housing.

Todd Nelson,
1561, Vermont


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 3:19 PM
Subject: [DML] Hard start issue?



>> Ok, heres what happened,
>>
>>     I drove the delorean to school today ( and dont worry i have a
>> fairly small school where i dont have to worry about people
>> vandelizing the car) and this is my 3rd day driving it. The first
>> day when i go home the car starts up fine and takes me home. The
>> second day it wont start, but about the tird try it finally turns
>> over and starts. Now this is making me nervous.
>>
>> I talked myself into brining it to school today and see if it was
>> just a fluke. Well it starts up fine every morning out of my garage.
>> But after school i go to start it, it wont start. its trying to turn
>> over but just wont. So after about the 6th try i give up, call my
>> dad to pick me up. He tries it twice and it starts. But he had to
>> pump the gas pedal and put it right to the floor to get it to start.
>> So i have the car now in my garage. and im not taking it to school
>> again for a while until i solve this problem. The weird thing is
>> that it happend two days in a row. the second day the worst, and its
>> as if, when it sits in the sun all day, it wont work, but i can
>> start it after sitting a few days in my garage. Could the
>> temperature outside have anything to do with this? I dont think it
>> would but maybe im wrong.






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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 18:02:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Motor Trend May 1981 Wanted

http://www.entermyworld.com/articles/motortrend/mtmay81.html


I may have an extra hard copy of it, so if you cant
find it let me know and I will spend some time looking
for it.


--- Alistair McCann <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk> wrote:


>> Hi Everyone
>> 
>> Looking for a copy of this magazine which features
>> my car              RIA 7124.....
>> 
>> I will pay for a good copy of this plus shippage to
>> Ireland, If anyone can help me then please get in
>> touch.
>> 
>> Alistair McCann
>> Belfast.






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