Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2860
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:13 Sep 2005 18:01:55 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Key Blank question
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

2. Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

3. Someone hit my car....and it wasnt the deer!
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>

4. RE: Key Blank question
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. Re: Re: Wrap Up - Midwest Tech Session and BBQ
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

6. Re: Re: Stolen in Seattle
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Interior roof panels
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>

8. Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. New Delorean Shop Texas
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>

11. Wacky tach - major issue???
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>

12. Re: big fan, i would like to be in the know
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. AW: Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

14. removing engine and trans
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

15. RE: Re: Wrap Up - Midwest Tech Session and BBQ
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: Stolen in Seattle
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. RE: removing engine and trans
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Re: Re: Stolen in Seattle
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

19. Re: Re: Stolen in Seattle
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

20. AW: Wacky tach - major issue???
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

21. Re: Wacky tach - major issue???
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

22. RE: Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

23. Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

24. Re: removing engine and trans
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

25. RE: Someone hit my car....and it wasnt the deer!
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 09:48:51 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Key Blank question

John,

I have the older style with the two keys.  However, I was able to duplicate 
my ignition key using an Ilco X29 A.K.A. Volvo VL-5.  So if you have the 
one-key system, this should work for the doors too, if I remember right.

Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 11:33 PM
Subject: [DML] Key Blank question



>> Hi all, I was wondering. Is it possible to use a generic key when
>> copying my DeLorean's original? I had an extra for my old '93 Plymouth
>> and a towing company "lost" it when I had it worked on...grr. >_<
>> Should I order an original DMC blank? Mine is a 1982 with the single
>> entry/ignition type. I've always had at least 2 for any car I've owned
>> if not 3. heh- now I feel paranoid
>> John
>> been up since 7AM ...zzz. work work work
>> VIN#0715
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 






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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 14:02:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...

I don't know what kind of goo you are driving through but the rubber
should last longer. You can try cleaning it and spraying with
silicone. Once you start to see small cracks inside the convolutes it
is time to replace. Check the boots on the C/V joints too!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Hey guys, I just got finished putting in new upper/lower ball joints, 
>> tie rod ends, and rack & pinion boots. Roads here are just horrific, 
>> and are chewing up my suspension and steering parts. Anyway, 
>> everything's great with it, steers well and doesn't vibrate or 
>> anything like that-but I'm more concerned with all of the rubber 
>> boots. The boots on my lower ball joints only lasted a few months 
>> before cracking and letting dirt in and the boots on my rack & pinion 
>> are only about 2 years old but they've long been cracked and leaking 
>> fluid (and what a pain they were to replace and refill let me tell 
>> you!). Is there anything I can coat these rubber boots with that will 
>> prevent the cracking from occurring? I do NOT want to do this work all 
>> over again! ----- Dani B. #5003







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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 10:20:14 -0400
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Someone hit my car....and it wasnt the deer!

I was a beautiful day here in Charlotte yesterday, so I drove the D to
work.  I had just spent the better half of Sunday detailing her, so I
was excited to finally get some drive time in.  After a long day at work
I drove home and parked in the driveway.  My wife had to leave for a
work meeting at 7pm and I was planning on working in the garage for
awhile.

Then I noticed it.....

A very large dent in the back drivers side quarter panel.  How could I
miss this when I got off from work?  Who had parked next to me?  Grrrr!

My wife then called while driving to her work meeting stating she had
bad news.  I'm thinking she got in an accident, or a friend is in the
hospital.... SURPRISE- she hit my car!!

So now its even worse than not knowing  :-)   She feels horrible (I've had
the car longer than her) so I cant really be too upset with her.  The
strange thing is that after 8 years of owning a D, the only dents have
been from a deer across the street, and my wife in the driveway!

So does anyone have a driver side rear quarter panel they want to sell?
First I am going to look into Dent Wizards, etc.  the problem is that
the wheel well and stamped crease is also bent.  So I don't know how
much a machine shop can handle.

Just thought I would share my "As the world turns" latest D experience.

Jason
Charlotte, NC
#68945









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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 09:25:56 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Key Blank question

John, The blank spare key is an X29. If you can't find them locally they are
on the web site for $1.00 ea.
John Hervey
 http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/accessories.html

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
John Rydholm
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 9:33 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Key Blank question

Hi all, I was wondering. Is it possible to use a generic key when 
copying my DeLorean's original? I had an extra for my old '93 Plymouth
and a towing company "lost" it when I had it worked on...grr. >_< 
Should I order an original DMC blank? Mine is a 1982 with the single 
entry/ignition type. I've always had at least 2 for any car I've owned 
if not 3. heh- now I feel paranoid
John
been up since 7AM ...zzz. work work work
VIN#0715








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 07:22:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Wrap Up - Midwest Tech Session and BBQ

Had a great time!   Got alot accomplished with the guidance and help of other fellow members (Dave S., Jim R., Marty M., Rich W.).  Thanks guys!
 
Regards,
Wayne / VIN2447
www.AA9DY.com
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 11:15:09 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Stolen in Seattle

 
I have a locking gas cap on mine and was under the belief that it came  
standard as the door key is the same key that opens the locking gas cap.   Was this 
an add on?  
 
Roy  #0893
 
In a message dated 9/12/2005 10:48:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

I think  Jason Perkins may have a good point about the
use of a locking gas cap. It  wont prevent thiefs from
taking your car, but if it is just someone taking  it
for a joy ride, then when they go to fill up the  tank






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 09:44:22 -0500
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Interior roof panels

I assume by "interior roof panels" you mean the headliners?  If so, the ones 
on the doors just pull out.  There are "fir tree" clips holding them in 
place.  The remaining ones require you to remove the inner door seals at the 
top to expose the flap of fabric.  Pull this fabric down.  You also have to 
remove the visors.  Two screws in each one.  Then the panels just slide out.

Jace
VIN 3488


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "bigkidtoys1955" <bigkidtoys_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 11:06 PM
Subject: [DML] Interior roof panels



>> Anyone have advice on how to remove/reinstall the interior roof panels???
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 







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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 14:41:52 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...

Keep an eye on the CV boots too. 

One of the projects we did this weekend was replacing a CV boot on Jim 
Reeves' high-mileage car - unfortunatly the old one had been cracked 
for years. When we degreased it a large amount of wear was evident from 
a couple of years of running with sand in the joint (the grease had 
obviously combined with water as well). Luckily Rich W came thru from 
his extensive collection of spare parts and found us a good used CV 
joint. Just for reference I opened up one of the others and it was 
fine, obviously all the wear was due to the one boot being open to the 
weather. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Hey guys, I just got finished putting in new upper/lower ball joints, 
>> tie rod ends, and rack & pinion boots. Roads here are just horrific, 
>> and are chewing up my suspension and steering parts. Anyway, 
>> everything's great with it, steers well and doesn't vibrate or 
>> anything like that-but I'm more concerned with all of the rubber 
>> boots. The boots on my lower ball joints only lasted a few months 
>> before cracking and letting dirt in and the boots on my rack & pinion 
>> are only about 2 years old but they've long been cracked and leaking 
>> fluid (and what a pain they were to replace and refill let me tell 
>> you!). Is there anything I can coat these rubber boots with that will 
>> prevent the cracking from occurring? I do NOT want to do this work 

all 

>> over again! ----- Dani B. #5003







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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 15:13:34 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: New Delorean Shop Texas

Group,
I have been making small statements about our shop on the chat groups 
for the past 6 months or so and now I would like to make it formal 
that we have a shop going in Dallas/Forney Texas. We have been up and 
running for about 6 months and in the last 2 weeks we have had 4 cars 
at one time doing everything from complete fuel system over haul, 
water pumps, tunes up, brakes, transmissions clutch and more. 
If you need a quote on work and are looking for a fair price on labor 
$60.00/hr. and parts then call me at the toll free # 888-278-1629. We 
can do local pick up and delivery or DAP ( Dependapable Auto
Shippers) 
is about 10 miles from the shop. 
Let me know what you need done and I will tell you what we can do.
We will be adding more services as we go along.
Thanks for support.   
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com









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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 15:18:36 -0000
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...

Hey Dani...

I put new tie rod ends on my car and the boots tore almost overnight.
 Toby Peterson was able to supply me with polyurethane covers that are
self lubricating.  It's been several months, and I just had my car up
on the rack at a tech session this last weekend.  They still look new!

Ask Toby if he can get the ball joint covers for you as well.

FYI
Dave Jacobs

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Hey guys, I just got finished putting in new upper/lower ball joints, 
>> tie rod ends, and rack & pinion boots. Roads here are just horrific, 
>> and are chewing up my suspension and steering parts. Anyway, 
>> everything's great with it, steers well and doesn't vibrate or 
>> anything like that-but I'm more concerned with all of the rubber 
>> boots. The boots on my lower ball joints only lasted a few months 
>> before cracking and letting dirt in and the boots on my rack & pinion 
>> are only about 2 years old but they've long been cracked and leaking 
>> fluid (and what a pain they were to replace and refill let me tell 
>> you!). Is there anything I can coat these rubber boots with that will 
>> prevent the cracking from occurring? I do NOT want to do this work all 
>> over again! ----- Dani B. #5003








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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 15:32:55 -0000
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Wacky tach - major issue???

So, I get in the car to head to work today, make it half way down the 
block and decide that the window open is not going to be cool enough 
heading to work, so I close it up and turn on the AC to MAX. Right 
away the tach goes from aroudn 2k (in 3rd) to 7k. Now I immediately 
saw it and slammed on the clutch and put it in neutral. As I had the 
radio on and the AC blowing, I didn't hear the engine rev that much, 
but I wasn't certain. So, turned off the AC (assuming that was the 
issue, starting to troubleshoot) and get going again in first, 
without problem. I make it around the corner and down the street with 
no problem, so I put the AC back on and right away the tach starts 
jumping wildly again. This time the radio is off and the engine 
sounds completely normal, yet the tach is at 5.5k, 7k, 4k, all over 
the place. I slow a bit and it lowers by 2k. So, I turn around, head 
home, and park it. 

Heading home I was in 3rd and the tach showed 4k, yet the engine 
sounded fine. I thought it might be a belt as it seemed to happen 
when I kicked on the AC, but I heard no belt squeeling, but still 
checked the belts upon getting home and they were both there. Didnt 
have time to mess with the car as I was then running late so I left 
for work. Anyone have any idea what the issue could be? Tach going 
bad? Clean the tach ground above the relay compartment? Something 
worse???







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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 06:55:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: big fan, i would like to be in the know

Do you have proof of this "blessing"?


--- Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:


>> Another company using the same name WITH John
>> DeLorean's blessing.   
>> Marc seems to leave that bit out a lot.   :) 
>> 
>> -Patrick C.
>> 1880
>> 
>>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 17:54:23 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...

I replaced my lower ball joints last year, too with the new ones from DMCH.

The rubbers also look like more than 10 years old. The originals were
better.

Maybe a few cents more invested in the rubber would have been a great idea.
I would have payed a few bucks more if I don't have to replace those things
the next 10 years or so.

Elvis




I don't know what kind of goo you are driving through but the rubber
should last longer. You can try cleaning it and spraying with
silicone. Once you start to see small cracks inside the convolutes it
is time to replace. Check the boots on the C/V joints too!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 11:37:50 -0400
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: removing engine and trans

Hello Group,

I've been pretty shady the last few months since I puchased a condo 
early this summer and I am plagued with extremely limited internet 
access until my laptop is repaired and my city's wireless network is 
up.  My only access is at college and I rarely have time to jump on the 
computer.  Should be back to the group in a couple weeks, I hope.

Anyway, I am planning on pulling my engine and trans this fall/winter 
for at the minimum some exhaust work and general cleaning, and perhaps 
if I feel up to it, some deeper engine work.

I have never done this before and would appreciate any help on what I 
need to do the job.  I have a complete tool set from an aborted idea of 
going to mechanic's school, but I don't have a cherry picker or trans 
jack or anything.  I don't mind buying this stuff if it isn't too 
expensive but I don't know what I need or where to look.  Who else has 
done this without knowing what they were doing?

Andy





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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 09:46:47 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Wrap Up - Midwest Tech Session and BBQ

Not important.



>>From: "turbodelorean" <dmcfan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Re: Wrap Up - Midwest Tech Session and BBQ
>>Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 05:44:51 -0000
>>
>>I guess I wasn't there Thursday and Friday night  :( 
>>
>>Peter Kuchan
>>
>>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:
>
>>> > I guess with a near record number of 90+ degree days this summer,
>>> > it's not surprising we had another string of 90 degree days for
>>> > the DeLorean Midwest Connection Club Tech Session Day(s) this past
>>> > weekend and ending with the British Car Union show on Sunday.
>>> >






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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 15:49:48 -0000
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stolen in Seattle

Kevin,

I am not knocking on Alaska, but it is relatively easy to ship cars 
over there.  Just get the car down to Port of Tacoma, consign the 
vehicle to one of the couriers going to Alaska, pay for the shipping, 
and that's it.  The shipping company doesn't really check the 
documentation.  Commercial fishermen ship their cars this way all the 
time.  Alaska is a logical place because there's a lot less people over 
there and on average, there's less police per sq. mile compared to the 
other states.  Besides, it is easy to load the vehicle into a private 
vessel and ship it cross the Barents Sea to whatever destination it is 
going.  With winter approaching up there, there's going to be even less 
people in Alaska.  The thief needs time, options, and "privacy".  
Whichever place afford them the most options and time to sit out the 
investigations, they'll go there.  

One can also argue shipping the D anywhere out of the Washington State 
is the next logical step.

My apologies if this train of thoughts offended you in anyway.



Steve
VIN#04421



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>> > 
>>> > If you have pictures of your car, forward the information to Port of
>>> > Tacoma and Port of Seattle and ask them to look out for anyone
>>> > shipping the D out of country or to Alaska.
>>> > 
>
>> 
>> Alaska? Alaska is a member of the union, so if a police report has 

been 

>> filed they wouldn't be able to register it there, either. It joined 

the 

>> union in '59, maybe you don't get news too quickly there in WA area.
>> It was probably joy riders and it should turn up soon, and hopefully 

safe 

>> and sound with an empty tank.
>> -Kevin
>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 11:17:30 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: removing engine and trans

Andy, It's a job and we do it in the shop both way's. What's wrong with the
engine that it has to be pulled or are you just wanting to clean it up with
everything out.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2005 9:38 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] removing engine and trans

Hello Group,


Anyway, I am planning on pulling my engine and trans this fall/winter 
for at the minimum some exhaust work and general cleaning, and perhaps 
if I feel up to it, some deeper engine work.




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 12:05:53 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: Stolen in Seattle

Roy,

It only came with cars with a separate gas flap since you would have no 
security with those.  Once DMC got rid of the gas flap they moved to regular 
unlocked caps since you would have to have access to the trunk to remove the 
cap.

Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <lordshill_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2005 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Stolen in Seattle



>>
>> I have a locking gas cap on mine and was under the belief that it came
>> standard as the door key is the same key that opens the locking gas cap. 
>> Was this
>> an add on?
>>
>> Roy  #0893
>>
>> In a message dated 9/12/2005 10:48:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>> malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> I think  Jason Perkins may have a good point about the
>> use of a locking gas cap. It  wont prevent thiefs from
>> taking your car, but if it is just someone taking  it
>> for a joy ride, then when they go to fill up the  tank
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 






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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 12:27:55 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Stolen in Seattle

Todd... Many thanks for the information about the locking gas cap.   Since my 
car has an early vin I have found a number of things that are different  
about it from other Deloreans.
 
Roy  #0893


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 18:32:10 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Wacky tach - major issue???

Derek,

sounds like an electrical problem so don't worry too much,
the engine is not going to explode from that  ;-) 


Is there any other strange things happening in the dash ?
Dimm or flickering lights ?

The Tach has 3 wires. +12V, GND and Signal form the Ignition ECU.

If the ignition signal would be disturbed, the car would run like
crap or not at all. I think we can close this out for a second.

What I would suspect is the GND connection in the center console
close to the radio. There must be a capacitor near the A/C switch
and two more from the fan speed switch. The caps are there to filter
noises from the fan motor that could disturb other systems like...the tach ?

Also - wat does the volt meter show during this situation ?

May be there is a problem or with the +12V coming from fuse #5.
At least this is where I would start looking, especialy for loose
GND connections.

Do you have a schematic ? Can you read it ?

Elvis








So, I get in the car to head to work today, make it half way down the
block and decide that the window open is not going to be cool enough
heading to work, so I close it up and turn on the AC to MAX. Right
away the tach goes from aroudn 2k (in 3rd) to 7k. Now I immediately
saw it and slammed on the clutch and put it in neutral. As I had the
radio on and the AC blowing, I didn't hear the engine rev that much,
but I wasn't certain. So, turned off the AC (assuming that was the
issue, starting to troubleshoot) and get going again in first,
without problem. I make it around the corner and down the street with
no problem, so I put the AC back on and right away the tach starts
jumping wildly again. This time the radio is off and the engine
sounds completely normal, yet the tach is at 5.5k, 7k, 4k, all over
the place. I slow a bit and it lowers by 2k. So, I turn around, head
home, and park it.

Heading home I was in 3rd and the tach showed 4k, yet the engine
sounded fine. I thought it might be a belt as it seemed to happen
when I kicked on the AC, but I heard no belt squeeling, but still
checked the belts upon getting home and they were both there. Didnt
have time to mess with the car as I was then running late so I left
for work. Anyone have any idea what the issue could be? Tach going
bad? Clean the tach ground above the relay compartment? Something
worse???







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 16:37:41 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Wacky tach - major issue???

Cleaning ALL grounds, and replacing my tach wire fixed this problem 
for me. -----Dani B. #5003






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 11:33:38 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...

Elvis, There is replacement rubber for the ball joints and tie rod ends.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Elvis Nocita
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2005 9:54 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: AW: [DML] Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...

I replaced my lower ball joints last year, too with the new ones from DMCH.

The rubbers also look like more than 10 years old. The originals were
better.

Maybe a few cents more invested in the rubber would have been a great idea.
I would have payed a few bucks more if I don't have to replace those things
the next 10 years or so.

Elvis






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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 16:45:39 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Ball joint boots, rack and p boots...

That's the thing, I'm not driving through anything! The weather has 
been great in NY, I can't even remember the last time it rained. This 
is why I'm so surprised in the legnth of time it took for the rubber 
to crack. Luckily I just rebuilt the CV joints and replaced the boots 
in April, those are holding up just great. Thank you all for your 
suggestions, I'll just keep an eye on everything and if worse comes to 
worse-I'll put the poly boots on. Thanks again -----Dani B. #5003






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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 16:41:09 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: removing engine and trans

*****  Moderator Note  *****
Dave - you forgot to disconnect the battery first...

Mike G   Moderator of the Week
*****


You'll need a cherry picker hoist. I can pull an engine in a couple 
of hours, just make a checklist and disconect everything. Label hoses 
and connections or make drawings. Most of this is in the manual:

--drain coolant and disconnect the 4 water lines, 2 large/two small
--remove axles (don't be tempted to leave them connected at the 
wheels, you'll just hate yourself later)
--disconnect shifter
--remove the muffler, leave CAT in place
--if an automatic, drain the trans and remove the dipstick
--if an automatic disconnect the cooler from the large hoses and just 
pull it out with the trans
--remove rear facia
--unplug all the bulkhead connectors and the O2 sensor
--disconnect a bunch of vacuum hoses
--disconnect the ground wire that goes from the engine to the two 
resistors
--disconnect two fuel lines at the fuel distributor
--disconnect trans mounts and let the engine rock back against the 
firewall (this is why the auto trans dipstick has to come out or 
you'll bend up the mount).
--disconnect the throttle cable (easy to forget!)
--disconnect the cables that go to the starter
--removing the alternator helps but is not necessary unless you have 
the aftermarket (fat) Delco
--remember take the nuts off BOTH front and back of the engine mounts 
(on an automatic its a bit easier if you remove the screws holding 
the mounts to the frame too/instead.) The bolt on the mount is 
actually a double-ended stud inserted thru a hole in the block, but 
it often freezes into the block. 
--lift it out slowly and unhook all the stuff you missed. PAY special 
attention that the motor mounts disengage or you will rip the rubber 
part off OR even break the casting at the base of the engine. As you 
lift the engine slighly, jog it to shake it loose from the mounts.

While it's out is a great time to do T/A bolts......and exhaust 
gaskets, whether you need them or not. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:

>> Hello Group,
>> 
>> 
>> Anyway, I am planning on pulling my engine and trans this 

fall/winter 

>> for at the minimum some exhaust work and general cleaning, and 

perhaps 

>> if I feel up to it, some deeper engine work.
>> 







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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 16:47:59 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Someone hit my car....and it wasnt the deer!

Hey Jason,

There's a fabricator right down the street from me here in Concord.  I use 
his shop for most anything and he may be able to repair the panel.

Email me or give me a call at 704 701 2870.

Jeff in NC



>>From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>>Subject: [DML] Someone hit my car....and it wasnt the deer!
>>Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 10:20:14 -0400
>>
>>I was a beautiful day here in Charlotte yesterday, so I drove the D to
>>work.  I had just spent the better half of Sunday detailing her, so I
>>was excited to finally get some drive time in.  After a long day at work
>>I drove home and parked in the driveway.  My wife had to leave for a
>>work meeting at 7pm and I was planning on working in the garage for
>>awhile.
>>
>>Then I noticed it.....
>>
>>A very large dent in the back drivers side quarter panel.  How could I
>>miss this when I got off from work?  Who had parked next to me?  Grrrr!
>>
>>My wife then called while driving to her work meeting stating she had
>>bad news.  I'm thinking she got in an accident, or a friend is in the
>>hospital.... SURPRISE- she hit my car!!
>>
>>So now its even worse than not knowing  :-)   She feels horrible (I've had
>>the car longer than her) so I cant really be too upset with her.  The
>>strange thing is that after 8 years of owning a D, the only dents have
>>been from a deer across the street, and my wife in the driveway!
>>
>>So does anyone have a driver side rear quarter panel they want to sell?
>>First I am going to look into Dent Wizards, etc.  the problem is that
>>the wheel well and stamped crease is also bent.  So I don't know how
>>much a machine shop can handle.
>>
>>Just thought I would share my "As the world turns" latest D experience.
>>
>>Jason
>>Charlotte, NC
>>#68945
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







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