Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2867
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:16 Sep 2005 16:01:39 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. LED Rear Light Replacment...
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

2. DIN Stereo Mounting Plates (was: Re: Radio)
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

3. More on the BTTF showing at Bowie Baysox Stadium
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: VIN 20105 Gold DeLorean (under the headliners)
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: Question about SSI numbers
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

6. Re: Car theft deterents
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

7. Re: Re: Stolen in Seattle
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

8. Re: LED Rear Light Replacment...
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

9. Re: VIN Conflict (more, long)
From: "Tate Coghlan" <tcogh_at_dml_alltel.net>

10. I hate my doors
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

11. MN 6th Annual DeLorean Apple Run
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

12. Re: Re: Port and Polish
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

13. Re: VIN Conflict (more, long)
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>

14. Re: I hate my doors
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

15. Re: I hate my doors
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

16. Re: Digest Number 2865
From: "blane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

17. Re: Minnesota-area Delorean's for sale & odd ebay dmc-12
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Stolen in Seattle
From: "Brent Beecher" <brentbeecher_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Delorean Owners in Arizona
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Re: Question about SSI numbers
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Sandblasting DeLorean frame - advice needed.
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. RE: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Fall Tour 2005
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

23. Re: DIN Stereo Mounting Plates (was: Re: Radio)
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

24. Eibach DMCH Kit
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Re: Question about SSI numbers
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 20:38:41 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: LED Rear Light Replacment...

Hi All

I hear all of the time about replacing the door lights and AC 
illumination over to LED's but i havent read much on here in the way 
of doing the same to the rear light clusters nor do i see anyone 
selling a 'set' .
Anyway i Finally managed to fit my new 'improved' rear light circuit 
boards
to the rear of the car and thought i would do a little test with my
new LED's V the old but 'new' standard bulbs, With all lenses
cleaned, the LED's on the left set are far more noticable than the 
right hand bulbs and now make the lenses full of colour when lit, 
far far far better than the washed out effect from the standard 
bulbs. Whilst the picture below is taken in the
dark, daytime illumination is just as improved ..All LED's are 1156
type bayonet fittings with the brake lights and reverse being red/ 
white 24's
and the side lights being red 19's. Like others i know i havent 
bothered with the indicators.

Although my lenses are still quite 'coloured' if a set was 
say 'faded' i feel these colour in the LED's would help greatly.

The brake lights are also noticably quicker to come on and the
reverse actually 'light up' the road behind  :) 

Got the 8 'Super bright' bulbs from your US Ebay site far far 
cheaper than the same bulbs over here
 

http://www.orgsites.com/tx/bozzzydmc/_pgg6.php3

Regards

Mike
#2001/DOC 403
Yorkshire, UK






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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 21:42:27 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: DIN Stereo Mounting Plates (was: Re: Radio)

Bear in mind, that while you can easily cut your stock radio mounting
bracket to accept a newer DIN-size unit, the original mounting
brackets are a "short supply" item. We have a limited number of them
available from cars that we remanufacture or company cars here that
get new stereos and therefore a new DIN-cutout radio mounting bracket.
 Think twice before cutting up one of the few remaining originals, the
day may come when you (or someone else) would like to have it.

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=3122&Qty=1&ShowCart=true

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> I pulled my radio out the other night.  I removed the center console 
>> cover. It wasn't too hard, plus it allowed me to clean out th3 23 
>> years worth of grime.(also found some chafed wires and a cracked 
>> vacuum line). All of the nuts are visable on the center console. You 
>> will have to unhook the window & defrost switches & lighter.  There 
>> are 2 screws, 1 on each side towards the front of the console up 
>> under the dash board(1 under passanger side dash and 1 under drivers 
>> side dash) that hold the upper side wing portion of the console 
>> cover.  Remove the whole console cover and you can reach right 
>> behing the radio and remove the bolt holding it in. Mine was only 
>> finger tight so I just unscrewed it with my fingers. Drop the rear 
>> of the radio down and then pull the front up through the opening 
>> where the vents were.  Then you should be able to reach in and 
>> disconnect all the wiring. I just bought a newer cd player today.  
>> Maybe I'll get time tonight to install it.  I'll let you know how it 
>> goes. Or if you've already put yours in, let me know how it goes. 
>> I've been told I should replace the speakers too, as they weren't 
>> very good speakers to start with.
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_y...> 
>> wrote:
>
>>> > Hey gang,
>>> > 
>>> > Who here has ever taken their radio out..in one
>>> > piece??? My radio is not working and I want to see if
>>> > it is hooked up. I got the vents out over the radio
>>> > and I want to take the radio out through the hole
>>> > where the vents go. The problem is that I cant get to
>>> > the bracket on the back of the radio and if and when I
>>> > do get the bracket off, the radio is not going to go
>>> > back far enough for me to lift it up and pull it out
>>> > through the vent hole. Any advice? I NEED MY TUNES!!!!
>>> > 
>>> > Thanks:)
>>> > 
>>> > Joey
>>> > #6297
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 	
>>> > 		
>>> > ______________________________________________________ 
>>> > Yahoo! for Good 
>>> > Watch the Hurricane Katrina Shelter From The Storm concert 
>>> > http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/shelter









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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 22:04:58 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: More on the BTTF showing at Bowie Baysox Stadium

Please follow the link to the Baysox home page:

http://www.baysox.com/events/movies/

Those that have not responded, and would like to attend, please email 
me offlist so that I can give a headcount of participants. See ya
there...

John
#7009






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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 21:57:16 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: VIN 20105 Gold DeLorean (under the headliners)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> Some of the pics you took show the headliners removed - anything
>> written under there? Be interesting to know...


James,
I looked at the driver side and didn't say anything, but it was very 
brief.  I was still in "awwww!"  I was actually thinking of that though 
when I did look at that one, but forgot to look at the passenger side.  
A lot of people (DMC owners from all over Maryland), want to get 
together to go meet Carl.  Anyone else want to go?  We need to set a 
date.  I will remember to definatly look then.  But as far as I know, 
there is nothing there.  

Matt
VIN: 2953
Frostburg, MD






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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 21:21:13 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Question about SSI numbers

Regardless of what the caption says, being that the photo is taken at
the docks, I think it's more likely that 1897 is the 1000th car
*shipped*. Looking at the shipping manifests, the cars were not
shipped to the states in the exact order they were built. Many earlier
VIN cars got shipped much later on as they QC's them there at the
factory or kept early cars there for development/company car purposes.

I think it's a very good bet that the number/letter on the foam
shipping block reflects the VIN/trans type.

James 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcerik" <dmcerik_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> On pages 84 and 93 of Stainless Steel Illusions, you see two cars.  
>> Page 84 has a picture of the 1000th Delorean made.  The other page 
>> shows a car driving down a ramp.  Both these cars have numbers on their 
>> front bumper.  The 1000th car says "1897-A" while the other car 
>> says "910-M". 
>> Would those numbers be their VIN number and the letter indicating if it 
>> was an automatic or manual?
>> If it is the VIN number, does anyone know where these are?  I checked 
>> the VIN list and it looks like 1897 is an Auto while 910 is a manual.
>> So then are they saying that 1897 was the 1000 Delorean loaded onto the 
>> ship, or is it the 1000 Delorean produced?  I know they started at 500, 
>> thats why i'm asking this question.
>> 
>> Erik








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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 16:37:35 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Car theft deterents

On 9/13/05, Toby Peterson <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com> wrote:

>> door opener hardware.  The cool thing is that we have ironed out the
>> integration of these systems with the DeLorean, so you don't have to
>> hope that some stereo shop tech can sort it all out (no offense
>> intended to any lurking stereo shop techs).


I can personally vouch for the effectiveness of Toby's installation
instructions. They are top notch. I would never allow a car stereo
shop to install an alarm system for a multitude of reasons, not in any
of my cars and certainly not in my precious. Anyone who isn't sure if
they can do the install on their own should purchase a system from
Toby for the instructions alone (the excellent hardware is nice,
too!). He walks you through everything, it's directly related to your
car, just simple and easy to understand.

-Ryan


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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 16:29:08 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Stolen in Seattle

On 9/15/05, Chris Williams <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:

>> you still dont have a key to start it. Should the owners of the list
>> feel that the artical is inapropriate I'm sure that they will remove
>> it, however I do not think that it is.


Doesn't matter. If someone tries to restrict this information, I will
promptly archive it on my web site for everyone to see.

Why? As it has been said: Security through obscurity is no security at
all. We can't hide under a rock and pretend this information doesn't
exist. The fact is, there are flaws in every method used for security.
It is best that those flaws be exposed.

Let me give you an example: Let's say all DeLoreans shipped with
inertia switches that, as my local locksmith put it, "Will unlock the
doors if you just tap the side of the car with a rubber mallet." We've
all heard it, so just assume for a second that it's true. Now, let's
say I was aware of the problem and told nobody because of fears
thieves would use the information to their advantage. What's the most
logical result of this course of action?

1. Some number of people will discover the flaw anyway.
2. They will tell others.
3. Someone will use this information to rip off a DeLorean.
4. Most people will have no idea how it happened because they have no
idea this flaw exists.

Now, I don't know about you, but I'd be pretty ticked if it was my car
that was stolen and I later found out somebody knew about this problem
but refused to tell us.

The simple fact of the matter is this: If I know a good method of
circumventing security, it's likely the bad guys already know as well.
If they don't, they're apt to discover it soon. If you keep the method
hidden, you prevent people from taking steps to protect themselves.

Anyone who seriously thinks this information should remain private
should Google "security through obscurity". There are many excellent
articles explaining precisely why you're just plain wrong.


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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 18:52:19 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: LED Rear Light Replacment...

I cant believe how bright they are.

If i didnt have cruise control on my car i would probably get a set of 
the brake lights.

Mark V



On Sep 15, 2005, at 3:38 PM, Mike Bosworth wrote:


>> Hi All
>>
>> I hear all of the time about replacing the door lights and AC
>> illumination over to LED's but i havent read much on here in the way
>> of doing the same to the rear light clusters nor do i see anyone
>> selling a 'set' .
>> Anyway i Finally managed to fit my new 'improved' rear light circuit
>> boards
>> to the rear of the car and thought i would do a little test with my
>> new LED's V the old but 'new' standard bulbs, With all lenses
>> cleaned, the LED's on the left set are far more noticable than the
>> right hand bulbs and now make the lenses full of colour when lit,
>> far far far better than the washed out effect from the standard
>> bulbs. Whilst the picture below is taken in the
>> dark, daytime illumination is just as improved ..All LED's are 1156
>> type bayonet fittings with the brake lights and reverse being red/
>> white 24's
>> and the side lights being red 19's. Like others i know i havent
>> bothered with the indicators.
>>
>> Although my lenses are still quite 'coloured' if a set was
>> say 'faded' i feel these colour in the LED's would help greatly.
>>
>> The brake lights are also noticably quicker to come on and the
>> reverse actually 'light up' the road behind  :) 
>>
>> Got the 8 'Super bright' bulbs from your US Ebay site far far
>> cheaper than the same bulbs over here
>>
>>
>> http://www.orgsites.com/tx/bozzzydmc/_pgg6.php3
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Mike
>> #2001/DOC 403
>> Yorkshire, UK
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>






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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 00:48:32 -0000
From: "Tate Coghlan" <tcogh_at_dml_alltel.net>
Subject: Re: VIN Conflict (more, long)


Many thanks for the detailed explanation.  Just curious if there were
records of how many cars were re-numbered or if these are double
counted in the (various) estimates of total production?

Tate Coghlan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> Mike,
>> 
>> Does it say 8/1/82 or 1/8/82? The former would actually be January
>> 8th, 1982. We have VIN 17144 here (12144 under the headliners) and
>> written on that door is 18/2/82 - Feb 18th 1982.
>> 
>> In your case, Jan 8th was a Friday and Feb 8th (more likely) was a
>> Monday. Of the cars that I have seen over the here at DMC, all 10XXX
>> and 15XXX cars have Dec 81 dates under the headliners, and 11XXX and
>> 16XXX cars have Jan 82 dates under the headliners, 17XXX cars are
>> actually 12XXX cars and have Feb 82 dates under the headliners.
>> 

[moderator snip]





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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 18:42:43 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: I hate my doors

Who designed these ridiculous doors, anyway? I'm not sure this whole
"gull wing" thing is worth the hassle.

I'm only half joking.

Anyway, can someone teach me how to adjust these things? Ever since I
put new seals on the passenger side door it hasn't closed properly.
Best as I can tell the rear striker pin needs to move up further,
except it's as high up as it can possibly go. If I move it in toward
the car, it lines up, but then it's too far away from the door latch
and once the door is closed it won't reopen except from the inside
(too much pressure). If I move it down from the very top it doesn't
line up at all.

So it's as far out as possible and as far up as possible and it's
still not lining up and I can't get the door to reliably work
smoothly. Right now it's in it's stuck position and can only be opened
from the inside and after an hour and a half of non-stop screwing with
it I'm fed up.

Please help...

-Ryan


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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 21:20:15 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: MN 6th Annual DeLorean Apple Run

If you are in the area stop by. The MN DeLoreans will be meeting at Deer
Lake Orchard near Buffalo MN this weekend starting at 1:00.  For exact
location, check out www.deerlakeorchard.com.  Note: HW 12 from Montrose is
closed.  Use 25 located just east of Montrose.

If you are new to the gathering, make sure you introduce yourself and
indicate that you are a DML participant.

See you there,

Nick





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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 20:53:41 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Port and Polish

First drive:
wow-- this is loud! It's got a nice burbley rumble sound to it, especially 
on decelleration or wind down from revving.
It looks great too...
Ok, performance: the low-end early revs don't have the same punch anymore. 
Rick warned of that-- a stock engine with this kit doesn't have the airflow 
and backpressure that gave the car some early zippiness in the acceleration 
cycle. But it definitely has some more get up once it gets going. I'd say 
over 2500 rpm's and you are back in the groove but I wasn't watching the 
tach too close.
Good thing it was a fourtyish mile drive home! I had fun. Didn't want to get 
off 59 onto the slow-moving perpetually backed up i45 so I kept going and 
took another highway south and jogged over on the beltway.
It felt great! Worth saving all summer for.

I love those guys. I just peppered the experienced Steve, Warren, Bill as 
well as the new guys Rick and Curtis with questions about this and that. I 
think Steve solved my hard-to-start issue by just talking and listening to 
it, but I'll know more tomorrow because I'm definitely driving this bad boy, 
and then I'll post the solution for posterity.

Great customer support, as always.

-Kevin
#4687
League City (sort of)

On 9/15/05, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:

>> 
>> heh... I'll post on this in a few days. I'm there now... (so Mark, if you 
>> are examining the IP address of this email, that's the reason. It really is 
>> me)
>> It looks awesome!
>> -Kevin
>> #4687
>> 
>> On 9/14/05, denverdelorean <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>> > 
>>> > accurate, seems like alot. Has anyone on list purchased it? If so,
>>> > what are your feelings about the new system?
>>> > (Any one from DMCH, feel free to chime in)
>>> > 
>>> > Thanks
>>> > Matt
>>> > 
>
>> 



-- -Kevin [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 13 Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 21:38:12 -0400 From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net> Subject: Re: VIN Conflict (more, long) Hi James, I just checked some pics and it does have "8:1:82" on both doors. The "8" and "1" are clearly visible. The "82" is not as clearly written. Wow, I thought #17084 was a Leo!. I was just wondering, has anyone compared the hand writing and matched it up to particular employees? If anyone is interested I can post a pic. - Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 11:25 AM Subject: Re: [DML] VIN Conflict (more, long)

>> Mike,
>>
>> Does it say 8/1/82 or 1/8/82? The former would actually be January
>> 8th, 1982. We have VIN 17144 here (12144 under the headliners) and
>> written on that door is 18/2/82 - Feb 18th 1982.
>>
>> In your case, Jan 8th was a Friday and Feb 8th (more likely) was a
>> Monday. Of the cars that I have seen over the here at DMC, all 10XXX






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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 03:32:06 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: I hate my doors

There is nothing wrong with the design provided you've got the doors 
adjusted properly-seals should fit fine as well. This isn't limited 
just to the pins; they need to be adjusted correctly at the hinge as 
well. They do have the ability to fall out of adjustment over the 
years-that's how my door ended up moving so far it started to dent the 
header panel and tore up the seals. This adjustment required the 
removal of the T-bar, don't even try to unbolt a hinge with a torsion 
bar still installed or the bar will move the hinge where it wants 
under the pressure and you'll never be able to move the hinge. Very 
time consuming and takes a lot of "trial and error" closing of the 
doors. Then is the pin adjustment which also takes many trial and 
errors. I do these one pin at a time (remove one pin-and align the 
installed pin-then install the second pin and align it). Any door 
adjustment takes lots of patience, but you'll obviously have no more 
door or seal troubles as a result. -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 23:01:57 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: I hate my doors


Don't worry, Ryan.  They will be back to smooth closing bliss in no time. 
Here are a couple items I learned when I did this:

1.  NEVER do it in the winter time (ask me how I know).  The seals are 
waaaay too hard to work when they're cold.

2.  Did you pull them tight when you put them on?  If not, remove them and 
start over again.  Also make sure the orientation is correct (call the 
vendor if necessary).  This time put the first couple inches on then pull 
those mothers as tight as you can (it may help to have an assistant).  As 
you pull the hell out of them, use a rubber mallet to beat those things on 
the lip.  If you stretch them on tight, you will lower the pinchable seal by 
quite a bit.

3.  After the seal is on, spray a bunch of silicone lube on a rag and 
thoroughly wipe them down.  It will also decrease the likelihood of 
pinching, and it makes the seal last a lot longer.

As for the striker, I seem to remember you having an early VIN?  If so, the 
holes for the striker adjustment is much smaller than the later cars.  The 
later cars had larger holes cut with the addition of black rubber grommets 
to cover the excess hole.  Buy some of these grommets and increase the hole 
by trimming away the fiberglass until you can reach the point you need.  Be 
careful not to trim so much that you can't cover it up.  A vendor will be 
able to tell you the right size hole-saw to use, but I didn't find it 
necessary.  Then remove both striker pins from the door, and begin with the 
back one.

Slowly close the door making small adjustments as necessary.  It will take 
some trial and error, but you'll get better as you go.  Bear in mind the 
"arc" the door makes when closing.  That is, typically your adjustment will 
not just be up or down, but possibly "up and out" or "down and in."  Adjust 
the striker so that it glides directly into the latch and that the latch 
closes to the second position, but don't mess with the door locks during 
this.  You should only be concerned with the latching at this point.  Once 
you think you have it, close the door and push down several times on the 
stainless at the rear of the stationary glass.  The door should be "tight" 
with no bouncing on the seal or rattle on the latch.  When you've got this, 
make sure the pin doesn't move and that it is good and tight.  Then move to 
the front pin and repeat, only cuss a lot more.

Even after all this, you may still need to park the car in the sun for a 
while before those seals fully seat themselves.  Just make sure the seal 
isn't getting pinched.  After a week or so, they'll be closing as 
effortlessly as a normal car door.

Good luck!

Jake Kamphoefner
1063


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 8:42 PM
Subject: [DML] I hate my doors



>> Who designed these ridiculous doors, anyway? I'm not sure this whole
>> "gull wing" thing is worth the hassle.
>>
>> I'm only half joking.
>>
>> Anyway, can someone teach me how to adjust these things? Ever since I
>> put new seals on the passenger side door it hasn't closed properly.
>> Best as I can tell the rear striker pin needs to move up further,
>> except it's as high up as it can possibly go. If I move it in toward
>> the car, it lines up, but then it's too far away from the door latch
>> and once the door is closed it won't reopen except from the inside
>> (too much pressure). If I move it down from the very top it doesn't
>> line up at all.
>>
>> So it's as far out as possible and as far up as possible and it's
>> still not lining up and I can't get the door to reliably work
>> smoothly. Right now it's in it's stuck position and can only be opened
>> from the inside and after an hour and a half of non-stop screwing with
>> it I'm fed up.
>>
>> Please help...
>>
>> -Ryan
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 






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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 00:36:36 -0700
From: "blane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 2865

The Pay Pal e-mail is definitely a scam.  I have gotten several emails
telling me that my account was about to be suspended if I did not respond by
clicking on the supplied web site.  The funny part is that I don't have a
Pay Pal account so you can't suspend something that does not exist!

Bill Lane
#3635





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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 05:32:32 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Minnesota-area Delorean's for sale & odd ebay dmc-12

I have been looking at the e-bay deloreans. This car that you saw 
recently listed was sold about 2 months ago.

BTW watch out for Cars.com ads, ripped directly from ebay and other 
sources for selling cars. If you are going to buy one, go look at it 
before you do anything financially.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "whydoismellsodarnbad" 
<whydoismellsodarnbad_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> I think those zero feedback people selling a D come up so often 

that 

>> it could actually be a regular feature.  They copy the whole 

page.  

>> Does the DML harvest info off ebay to add it to the VIN List?
>> 
>> --S
>> 
>> 
>> 

[moderator snip]




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 05:33:37 -0000
From: "Brent Beecher" <brentbeecher_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stolen in Seattle

Interesting update:  I was looking around the internet tonight for
Deloreans for sale (like I 
wouldn't replace it...) in order to back up my insurance claim
value-wise, and I looked at 
cars.com.  A very interesting entry:

1981 DELOREAN DMC-12 stainless stl, theft recov, project car, eng gd,
some bdy wrk, needs 
a few parts, serious inquir only, now taking bids starting at,
$10,000 310-497-8185

(310) is L.A.  I blocked my outgoing caller id and called the number:
 "The Sprint PCS number 
you have dialed is temporarily unavailable."  The listing was posted
TODAY (the 15th), four 
days after mine was stolen in Seattle.  I'll call the police
tomorrow, but I am wondering if that 
phone number appears on anyone's club rosters or vendor's customer
lists.  I thought I would 
also call the FBI as transporting stolen property across state lines
is a federal offense, and it 
might pique their interest if they think it might be part of a stolen
car ring.  Maybe I'm not 
seeing clearly through my anger, but this seems awfully suspicious to
me...

Brent Beecher 






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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 05:40:14 -0000
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean Owners in Arizona

Just thought I would see if anyone in the Phoenix / Tempe area would 
like to get together for some chat and dinner. I am in Tempe for work 
training work until the 23rd and would like to see if anyone would be 
interested in getting together. I would like to meet some AZ Delorean 
owners. You club seems really active with the community. I am from 
Oklahoma City and our club is anything but active. Let me know if 
anyone is interested. 

Thanks,
Adam Lee
VIN 1913







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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 01:55:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Question about SSI numbers

Hello,

I agree with James on this one.  Especially since 1897
was built in June (not july) of 81.  I haven't seen
1897 at all, but I have seen 1997 (also a black
interior auto built june of 81).  I have pics of 1997
if anyone is interested.  The reason I have them is
1997 was for sale a few years back and I almost bought
it.  Some other VIN#'s can be seen on DeLoreans at the
factory in various pictures and videos.  It would be
interesting if anyone on the list owns one of them.

-Chris
#6453

--- James Espey <james_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:


>> Regardless of what the caption says, being that the
>> photo is taken at
>> the docks, I think it's more likely that 1897 is the
>> 1000th car
>> *shipped*. Looking at the shipping manifests, the
>> cars were not
>> shipped to the states in the exact order they were
>> built. Many earlier
>> VIN cars got shipped much later on as they QC's them
>> there at the
>> factory or kept early cars there for
>> development/company car purposes.
>> 
>> I think it's a very good bet that the number/letter
>> on the foam
>> shipping block reflects the VIN/trans type.
>> 
>> James 
>> 

[moderator snip]





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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 11:41:33 -0000
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Sandblasting DeLorean frame - advice needed.

Hi all,

As some of you might know, I'm doing a frame restoration on my 
DeLorean. The project has been very delayed with basically a lack of 
time on my part, but I'm now back working on the project again and 
hoping to complete as soon as possible. I have to have this car back 
together for Eurofest next year!

I've documented the progress so far on the website 
http://www.delorean.ie - see tech section.

It hasn't been updated in a while, I've lots of pics to upload, but 
again, time. I just wish I had a time machine  :) 

Anyway, to get to the point. If anyone has sandblasted or otherwise 
stripped their DeLorean frame of epoxy before, I would really 
appreciate some advice.

I have given the frame to a guy who does paint stripping and 
sandblasting. He has worked on car frames before, including Lotus 
frames. He says in his 30 years in the business, he has never seen a 
paint/epoxy as tough as on my DeLorean frame! He says he's very 
impressed with the paint, but thinks the reason DeLorean frames begin 
to rust under the epoxy is due to poor preparation before the frames 
were originally epoxy dipped. 

Obviously, the epoxy will come off easily in the rusted areas at the 
front of the frame, but where the epoxy is still in new condition 
(80% of the frame), he is having a difficult time removing it.

He has tried very strong paint stripping solutions on it, but they 
have only made a minor difference to the epoxy. Next week he is 
thinking of using an ultra strong paint stripper used for removing 
marine grade paint.

In terms of sandblasting, he has tried this also on one area of the 
frame, but found it very (very very) slow to come off. He says he is 
actually concerned about the frame warping from such intense 
sandblasting if he continues. I told him I've heard of DeLorean 
frames being sandblasted before and never heard of warpage, so he 
asked if I could find out some details of the method.

What we need to know is:

1. What air pressure do you use?
2. What is the volume of air used?
3. What size nozzle is used? 5/16?
4. What grade of sand is used?
5. How long does it typically take to sandblast a DeLorean frame with 
good epoxy?
6. If he uses the max output of his compressor to remove the epoxy, 
is there a danger of warping the frame in places?
7. Do you pre-treat the frame with any paint stripper before 
sandblasting?
8. Any other info or advice? All very much appreciated.

I exchanged a few emails with Ed Uding a few months ago regarding his 
method of stripping DeLorean frames - thermal paint removal. 
Basically they have an oven that goes up to 500 degrees centigrade, 
but with no oxygen in the oven. For this reason, the frame can be 
placed in the oven without the epoxy catching fire, and it simply 
melts off. Sounds like the best way to go, but unfortunately we do 
not have this facility in Ireland.

The closest thing to Ed's method in Ireland is an industrial 
powdercoating oven. Would it be any use running my DeLorean frame 
through an industrial powdercoating oven, which is only 180 degrees 
centigrade? Would this remove or even loosen the epoxy?

I spoke with my powdercoating friend about this possibility, but he 
thinks that as soon as the chassis comes out the other side of the 
oven, the epoxy will quickly cool and harden onto the frame again, 
and it would achieve nothing. Any thoughts on this?

If any of the full service vendors who sandblast then powder coat 
DeLorean frames as part of their restorations could lend me some 
advice I'd really appreciate it.

Hopefully someone can help!

Thanks,
John Dore, Ireland.
Vin 3810.








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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 08:11:51 -0400
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: RE: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Fall Tour 2005

Reminder:  Don't forget to book your room for the upcoming Delorean
Mid-Atlantic Club's Fall Foliage Tour 2005!  Details can be found below
(please note the new website for the hotel).
 
Final itinerary for the tour is being ironed out now by our President Mike
Deluca and should promise to be a great time for all those who attend just
like it is every year!.
 
Thanks
 
- Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club

  _____  

From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club [mailto:clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com]

Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 5:35 PM
To: 'dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com'; DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Fall Tour 2005
Importance: High


Summer is almost over!   :(    But that always means the DMA club is warming
up for the annual Fall foliage tour!!!!
 
After our most exciting year ever with huge turnouts by our members, we are
hot on the trail of having another great event for you to attend.  Details
are still be ironed out, but what we can tell you is this:
 
The tour will be the weekend of October 1st in Norwich, CT (Near the Native
America Casinos)
 
You can start by booking your room with the Hotel for the night of Oct. 1st
Details can be found at:    <http://www.economyinnnorwich.com/>
http://www.economyinnnorwich.com/
 
The hotel is located just minutes from Mohegan Sun Casino, 15 minutes from
Foxwoods Casino, 15 minutes from Pequot Museum, and 20 minutes from Mystic
Seaport.   It offers a tavern, restaurant, fitness club, heated indoor pool,
and shuttle service to/from the casinos (until 1:30am)
 
The rate is 109.99 + tax and is expected to sell out fast.  We have reserved
15 rooms with an option for 5 more if we book the first 15 quickly. 
Note: The casino rate for Sat night at the Mohegan  in October is  $385.00
so this is a good deal all and all
The Group code for booking is "Fall Tour"
 
As an extra bonus, we have expanded our line of DMA logo apparel!  All of
which will be available the weekend of the Fall Tour.  YOU WONT WANT TO MISS
IT!
 
More details to follow soon, but hurry and book your spot now!   
Remember:  Details can always be found on our website
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/updates/updates.htm
<http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 12:52:19 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: DIN Stereo Mounting Plates (was: Re: Radio)

An interesting nugget that I discovered n right-hander #5565 went as 
follows.

I believe this car was converted for display at a motor show in 1982, 
but never made it. It was driven as a company car by a factory 
executive, some say Don Lander, although this has been put in doubt 
lately. Of all the right-handers it is one of the best, and rather than 
being the protoype that so many of the other right-hookers are (early 
cars, late panels, poor attention to detail), this car carries a number 
of features which we can assume were being trialled for European 
production. One of the simplest, but yet most impressive, I found on the 
stereo bracket.

The car came with an original Craig installed, and the new owner asked 
me to fit a modern stereo (he likes his gadgets so a bluetooth enbabled 
unit was the order of the day!)

Anyway, in removing the old Craig stereo, I discovered that rather than 
having the knobs mounted to the stereo bracket as per usual, they were 
mounted to a specially (and very well) made surround which clipped into 
the DIN hole cut into the bracket. In addition to this there was a tray 
underneath the stereo, welded to the normal bracket and at the back 
edge, a quite intricately made clip-on bracket that secured the rear of 
the stereo by the security mount at the back. This basically meant that 
the Craig was held perfectly securely, and could be removed and replaced 
with a DIN unit with no mods whatoever. Very ipressive workmanship in 
its simplicity and effectiveness.

Martin

James Espey wrote:


>>Bear in mind, that while you can easily cut your stock radio mounting
>>bracket to accept a newer DIN-size unit, the original mounting
>>brackets are a "short supply" item. We have a limited number of them
>>available from cars that we remanufacture or company cars here that
>>get new stereos and therefore a new DIN-cutout radio mounting bracket.
>> Think twice before cutting up one of the few remaining originals, the
>>day may come when you (or someone else) would like to have it.
>>
>>http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=3122&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
>>
>>James Espey
>>DMC (Texas)
>>http://www.delorean.com
>>800/USA-DMC1
>>
>>
>>  
>>







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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 05:15:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Eibach DMCH Kit

Just installed my DMCH Eibach/DMCH spring shock kit yesterday. (I got it before the price increase)   Right off the bat I obviously noted the new stance of the car.  Being lower is kinda wierd as I have been so used my car's "normal" ride height.   It will take some getting used to.  Not in a bad way, just different. 
 
The first thing I noticed was that my nose no longer drifts up when accelerating.  It rode nose-high anyway.   It is now firmly in place.   2nd obervation is that cornering is tighter with less sway and it does feel quite attached to the road.   Feels almost like gliding on rails.  I took it on some back road here in Maine that are very rollercoaster-ish.  Nice swells with lots of curves.  It was quite a different ride. 
 
The adjustable collar is interesting.  I measured the front and it was 6" from the crossmember.  The rear was 5.5"  I adjusted the collars and brought the rear up a bit but then saw that I only had 1/4 tank of gas.  I'll remeasure when I get a full tank.   I also read that it takes a little bit for it to all settle in.    They are really hard to turn once installed. You need a pipe to make it longer for more leverage.  
 
I had a local guy install the kit.  It was pretty straight forward.  I was able to work with him on the install so I could learn more about my car.   
 
Tom Watkins
#05732

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 08:24:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Question about SSI numbers

Chris,
 
I came across a photo of my car sitting at the docks in Belfast with a bunch of its brothers just before being shipped to the US.  I believe it was on the first shipment over to be sold to the first owner in July (after the dealer had fun putting 400 miles on it).  You can see the styrofoam bumper on the car that says "1063-M".  
 
Thanks to Rob Lamrock who dug up a digital copy and sent it to me!  In the same photo, you can see several other early VINs as referenced by Mike Substelny in the archives.  The photo was featured on the cover of a DeLorean World magazine years ago.
 
>From the archives:
 
"From: Mike Substelny Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 10:05:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Factory pix in latest DeLorean World 

Some list subscribers who are not DOA members have asked me about the cars on 
the latest DW cover. The numbers I can make out are:
860,996,1008,1063 and maybe 1038.

Typically this picture will have been enlarged and cropped, so the original photo 
(from Robert Lamrock) probably showed even more cars. Most of the cars that are 
shown face the wrong direction, hiding the VIN number. So maybe my car is in that 
picture and I just can't tell . . . <snip>"
 
Anybody else got one?  The funny thing is, I never seem to see any pics of 82s or 83s like this.  Maybe the excitement of taking pictures then was over...
 
Jake
1063 - April 1981


[moderator snip]




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________________________________________________________________________


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