Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2868
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:16 Sep 2005 21:58:58 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: I hate my doors
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

2. Re: Port and Polish
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. DIN Stereo Mounting Plates (was: Re: Radio)
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

4. Re: Sandblasting DeLorean frame - advice needed.
From: "Qume Fox" <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

5. Re: I hate my doors
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

6. Re: Port and Polish
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

7. Automatic transmission shift point
From: "Josh Krady" <josh_at_dml_joshandjessica.com>

8. Renting out the DMC
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: Renting out the DMC
From: Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Renting out the DMC
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Automatic transmission shift point
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

12. Re: Renting out the DMC
From: "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk>

13. Re: Stolen in Seattle
From: "whydoismellsodarnbad" <whydoismellsodarnbad_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. DIN Stereo Mounting Plates (was: Re: Radio)
From: "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Automatic transmission shift point
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

16. Re: Renting out the DMC
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

17. Re: Renting out the DMC
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

18. Re: Renting out the DMC
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

19. Re: I hate my doors
From: "L. Sandel" <ls_at_dml_chickencow.csv.cmich.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 08:38:38 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: I hate my doors

Thanks to everyone for your replies.

Elvis: I do have remote door openers, and they don't work properly
anymore because there is too much pressure on the door handle - they
don't have the strength to pull it open. This is also why I can't open
the door from the outside - the outside latch isn't strong enough or
doesn't have enough leverage as the inside.


>>>> There is nothing wrong with the design provided you've got the doors
>>>> adjusted properly-seals should fit fine as well.


I know; I was just mad at it. Still am, actually.  ;) 

Jake: I think I pulled the seals as tight as I could and am pretty
sure they're installed correctly. I'll rework them a bit, see if I can
get them any tighter. I've also rubbed the silicone lube all over 'em
many times. However: The concept of adjusting one striker at a time
will probably help me. I didn't know I could completely remove the
striker pins - I assumed the nut behind would fall off and I'd never
be able to get to it. So, if I take the striker pin completely out,
the nut should stay behind?


>> As for the striker, I seem to remember you having an early VIN?  


Not too early - #5447. Actually, the hole in the fiberglass is not my
problem - I have excess room there. It's the hole the pin goes
through, where the nut sits on the other side. If I could just move
the pin UP another 1/8th of an inch I think it would align perfectly.
But it's reached it's limit of travel.


>> Even after all this, you may still need to park the car in the sun for a
>> while before those seals fully seat themselves.  Just make sure the seal
>> isn't getting pinched.  After a week or so, they'll be closing as
>> effortlessly as a normal car door.


So, disclaimer: The seals have actually been installed for several
months. The door adjustment has never been right since. I've had
varying degrees of success, but it's never been as smooth as I think
it should be, and the launcher hasn't  worked right since (due to
misadjustment of the pins).

My drivers side seals need replaced too, and I have the parts sitting
right here, but don't want to touch it until I get the passenger side
right.  :) 

Thanks again, everyone.

-Ryan


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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 15:41:52 -0000
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Port and Polish

Thanks for the review!  I am a little disappointed that you lost 
some low end tourque, but the car is a Grand Tourer, and benefits 
from midrange power.  I think I'll hold off for a bit because if 
anything, I want more low end power.  It doesn't help matters that 
my other car is a 69 charger with a 440 six pack.  It has like 400+ 
lb/ft of tourque!  My little D' engine just can't compare.  

I did take it to the exhaust shop today for some repairs.  Previous 
Owner backed into a curb and broke some stuff.  Local shop was 
excited to work on it and will do custom fab and new, stainless tips 
for $120!

Have fun with the DMCH system and keep us posted as it "settles in"

Matt
16076

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> First drive:
>> wow-- this is loud! It's got a nice burbley rumble sound to it, 

especially 

>> on decelleration or wind down from revving.
>> It looks great too...
>> Ok, performance: the low-end early revs don't have the same punch 

anymore. 

>> Rick warned of that-- a stock engine with this kit doesn't have 

the airflow 

>> and backpressure that gave the car some early zippiness in the 

acceleration 

>> cycle. But it definitely has some more get up once it gets going. 

I'd say 

>> over 2500 rpm's and you are back in the groove but I wasn't 

watching the 

>> tach too close.


>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 16:20:28 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: DIN Stereo Mounting Plates (was: Re: Radio)

This would be interesting to see - got any photos of it? Sounds like
an interesting design.

James

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> An interesting nugget that I discovered n right-hander #5565 went as 
>> follows.
>> 

(SNIP)

>> Anyway, in removing the old Craig stereo, I discovered that rather than 
>> having the knobs mounted to the stereo bracket as per usual, they were 
>> mounted to a specially (and very well) made surround which clipped into 
>> the DIN hole cut into the bracket. In addition to this there was a tray 
>> underneath the stereo, welded to the normal bracket and at the back 
>> edge, a quite intricately made clip-on bracket that secured the rear of 
>> the stereo by the security mount at the back. This basically meant that 
>> the Craig was held perfectly securely, and could be removed and

replaced 

>> with a DIN unit with no mods whatoever. Very ipressive workmanship in 
>> its simplicity and effectiveness.
>> 
>> Martin


>>
>>http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=3122&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
>
>>> >
>>> >James Espey
>>> >DMC (Texas)
>>> >http://www.delorean.com
>>> >800/USA-DMC1









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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 16:03:43 -0000
From: "Qume Fox" <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: Sandblasting DeLorean frame - advice needed.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_h...> wrote:
<snip>

>> I spoke with my powdercoating friend about this possibility, but he 
>> thinks that as soon as the chassis comes out the other side of the 
>> oven, the epoxy will quickly cool and harden onto the frame again, 
>> and it would achieve nothing. Any thoughts on this?
>> 
>> If any of the full service vendors who sandblast then powder coat 
>> DeLorean frames as part of their restorations could lend me some 
>> advice I'd really appreciate it.
>> 
>> Hopefully someone can help!
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> John Dore, Ireland.
>> Vin 3810.


Well i'm no expert, i'll chime in since I was planning on powdercoating 
the frame of my D as well.  After I got my car down to the bare frame, I 
desided against it with mine.. Mainly being that my frame wasn't nearly 
as bad as I thought it might be. So what I am going to do with mine is 
only sandblast the few spots that are rusting, and reepoxy them, then 
just simply paint the entire frame again with another layer of an epoxy 
based paint(though probably gloss black this time).  One thing to 
remember though.. You probably don't want to have the frame dipped 
or heated to the point the OEM epoxy paint melts... The reason being 
there are many internal area's of the frame that once the OEM 
epoxy/paint is removed from, you won't be able to get to to 
powedercoat, so you'll end up with bare metal in places that will be 
rusting unseen.. And this will probably shorten the life of the frame 
when the goal was to prolong it.  If you do go through with stripping the 
frame, sandblasting the outside would be all i'd do then powdercoat it.  
Warping shouldn't really be an issue, at least not on the frame.. 
Warping is generally only a problem on thin sheet metal like fenders, 
etc. At least from my limited experience anyway.

Chris
VIN# 3209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean/
(who also has loads of pics and needs to do an update but has been 
lazy)






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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 09:49:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: I hate my doors

 
The nut *should* stay there if you take it off.  As long as it hasn't severely rusted or had the shit beaten out of it at some point.  Even if it does fall off, it is usually fairly easy to retrieve.  See the pics on this page I took a couple months ago:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/strikerpins.html
 
Other than that, it sounds like you're doing everything right.  Also, where did you get the seals?  I've noticed huge differences among the various manufacturers in thickness, etc.  For the record, I'm using Houston's which I admittedly only bought for cosmetic reasons (after seeing a set on a club member's car, I thought they looked the best --what a dork!).  I've been very happy with the fit and appearance.  My only additional suggestion would be that if going up another 1/8th inch appears it would work, maybe try moving the pin down and in so the striker enters the latch a little later in its travel.
 
Keep us posted.
 
Jake


Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks to everyone for your replies.

Jake: I think I pulled the seals as tight as I could and am pretty
sure they're installed correctly. I'll rework them a bit, see if I can
get them any tighter. I've also rubbed the silicone lube all over 'em
many times. However: The concept of adjusting one striker at a time
will probably help me. I didn't know I could completely remove the
striker pins - I assumed the nut behind would fall off and I'd never
be able to get to it. So, if I take the striker pin completely out,
the nut should stay behind?


>> As for the striker, I seem to remember you having an early VIN? 


Not too early - #5447. Actually, the hole in the fiberglass is not my
problem - I have excess room there. It's the hole the pin goes
through, where the nut sits on the other side. If I could just move
the pin UP another 1/8th of an inch I think it would align perfectly.
But it's reached it's limit of travel.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 17:00:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Port and Polish

As observed there is "some" merit for some amount of backpressure
caused by an exhaust system. Unfortunetly this kind of thing is only
observable by experimentation, it is impossible to accurately
calculate beforehand. It is affected by everything from the effiecincy
of the intake breathing to the camshaft, timing, etc. That is why when
you buy something from a reputable vendor they have done measurements
so you can expect certain results, not the case when you go off on
your own and fabricate your own parts. Unless you start with baseline
measurements and document and test everything you do you are "out
there all alone". That is why you pay more than just for the
fabricated parts. Testing is expensive along with some kind of
warranty. IMHO the slight gains in the exhaust are not worth the
expense and the added noise. On a long trip the noise can get to you
and increase the fatigue. The catalytic converter does a lot to quiet
the exhaust but is also a large contributer to backpressure. As for
low end power, IMHO the gearing of the trans (automatic OR 5-speed) is
not optimally designed to the PRV for the car at it's stock weight. I
am guessing now but there is probably more to be gained by changing
the gear ratios than anywhere else.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_y...>
wrote:

>> Thanks for the review!  I am a little disappointed that you lost 
>> some low end tourque, but the car is a Grand Tourer, and benefits 
>> from midrange power.  I think I'll hold off for a bit because if 
>> anything, I want more low end power.  It doesn't help matters that 
>>







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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 12:32:01 -0400
From: "Josh Krady" <josh_at_dml_joshandjessica.com>
Subject: Automatic transmission shift point

My delorean seems to wait way to long to shift from first to second and then it shifts to second and then right to third. Is there any way that anyone knows of to adjust the timing, or if its  not the timing? What could it be? Any help would be awesome. 

Thanks, 
josh
------------------
Josh Krady
>From my cell phone 
http://www.mxpxboi.com
http://www.gamestartonline.com
------------------






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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 13:09:03 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Renting out the DMC

I have several local events that want to rent my car for display to be used 
for an 80's themed
business conference or something like that...
I have no idea what I should charge for this.
What is the going rate for something like this, for a full day of displaying 
the car for a photo
shoot, or display?
I was thinking about $200.00.
Is that too high, too low or just about right?

Does anyone here have much experience with this?
Thanks,
- Videobob







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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 11:39:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Renting out the DMC

I know at one of the clubs I spin at in DC they had a
big Dukes of Hazzard night for the opening of the
movie. The General Lee was there for the entire night
and it cost the club $500.00. Not bad for pimping out
a car.

Joey
#6297



--- Videobob Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:


>> I have several local events that want to rent my car
>> for display to be used 
>> for an 80's themed
>> business conference or something like that...
>> I have no idea what I should charge for this.
>> What is the going rate for something like this, for
>> a full day of displaying 
>> the car for a photo
>> shoot, or display?
>> I was thinking about $200.00.
>> Is that too high, too low or just about right?
>> 
>> Does anyone here have much experience with this?
>> Thanks,
>> - Videobob
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating
>> team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
>> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 




		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com





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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 11:47:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Renting out the DMC

A group holding a convention gave me $250.00 for a Friday evening and Saturday attendance. They also paid for my motel room and meals since I had to travel. Rod 10921

Videobob Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:I have several local events that want to rent my car for display to be used 
for an 80's themed
business conference or something like that...
I have no idea what I should charge for this.
What is the going rate for something like this, for a full day of displaying 
the car for a photo
shoot, or display?
I was thinking about $200.00.
Is that too high, too low or just about right?

Does anyone here have much experience with this?
Thanks,
- Videobob







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links









		
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
 Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 19:00:40 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Automatic transmission shift point

Are you driving it hard or "normal"? If you hold the gas pedal to the 
floor and then back off when it shifts 1-2, it will do exactly what 
you describe. If it is doing this on normal, gentle acceleration you 
may have an issue. 

"This sucker's electrical". There is a very slight adjustment on the 
throttle position cable (the upper cable on the throttle spool, the 
other end is at the transmission). If this cable is adjusted 
improperly the trans will shift "late", i.e. as if you had your foot 
on the floor. If the cable is disconnected or broken, it will shift 
early no matter how aggressively you drive. 

On the assumption that you are not drastically letting go of the gas 
pedal at the time it shifts 1-2, you likey have an issue with the 
computer governor (the white box on the side of the trans). This 
controls the shift points by measuring a voltage generated in 
proportion to the car's speed. If something in one of the two 
comparator circuits has failed (including the notorious input 
capacitors) the shift points will get screwed up. 

You probably need a new (or rebuilt) computer governor. There is no 
adjustment other than changing the value of some components inside. 

More to come later......

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Josh Krady" <josh_at_dml_j...> wrote:

>> My delorean seems to wait way to long to shift from first to second 

and then it shifts to second and then right to third. Is there any 
way that anyone knows of to adjust the timing, or if its  not the 
timing? What could it be? Any help would be awesome. 

>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> josh







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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 19:05:15 -0000
From: "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Renting out the DMC

You could take a look at the UK site
www.delorean-hire.co.uk
we can charge more over hear as there are a lot less cars on the 
road approx 100-150 I believe. So can not really comment on hire 
prices in the US.
Chris
vin~4584

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>> I have several local events that want to rent my car for display 

to be used 

>> for an 80's themed
>> business conference or something like that...
>> I have no idea what I should charge for this.
>> What is the going rate for something like this, for a full day of 

displaying 

>> the car for a photo
>> shoot, or display?
>> I was thinking about $200.00.
>> Is that too high, too low or just about right?
>> 
>> Does anyone here have much experience with this?
>> Thanks,
>> - Videobob







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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 19:09:39 -0000
From: "whydoismellsodarnbad" <whydoismellsodarnbad_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stolen in Seattle

You probably already know this, but in case you don't:  Do a reverse 
search on the phone number through smart pages.  Then you could do a 
name search on zaba for additional info and phone numbers.    

Having a cop as a friend is a good thing.  They can run info for 
you.  Having a debt collector as a friend is also a good thing, they 
are masters at skiptracing.

I'm a little skeptical about some law enforcement agency solving 
this problem.  I wouldn't put much stock in the FBI, (of course you 
can always try everything.)  If you're going to get your car back, 
it's ultimately up to you.  If you did confirm that it was your car, 
then called the cops, you'd get some action, and then you could 
follow up with the FBI after the locals arrest the culprit.

Don't give up, you might get lucky!

All the best to you.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Brent Beecher" <brentbeecher_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> Interesting update:  I was looking around the internet tonight for
>> Deloreans for sale (like I 
>> wouldn't replace it...) in order to back up my insurance claim
>> value-wise, and I looked at 
>> cars.com.  A very interesting entry:
>> 
>> 1981 DELOREAN DMC-12 stainless stl, theft recov, project car, eng 

gd,

>> some bdy wrk, needs 
>> a few parts, serious inquir only, now taking bids starting at,
>> $10,000 310-497-8185
>> 
>> (310) is L.A.  I blocked my outgoing caller id and called the 

number:

>>  "The Sprint PCS number 
>> you have dialed is temporarily unavailable."  The listing was 

posted

>> TODAY (the 15th), four 
>> days after mine was stolen in Seattle.  I'll call the police
>> tomorrow, but I am wondering if that 
>> phone number appears on anyone's club rosters or vendor's customer
>> lists.  I thought I would 
>> also call the FBI as transporting stolen property across state 

lines

>> is a federal offense, and it 
>> might pique their interest if they think it might be part of a 

stolen

>> car ring.  Maybe I'm not 
>> seeing clearly through my anger, but this seems awfully suspicious 

to

>> me...
>> 
>> Brent Beecher









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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 18:45:22 -0000
From: "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DIN Stereo Mounting Plates (was: Re: Radio)

Well I got my new DIN size radio in last night, and yes I thought 
about it 10 times.  Do I cut or don't I cut into the mounting 
bracket.  I finally came to the realization that I probably will 
never want to go back to the older knob style radios, and I doubt my 
car will ever be in a museum.  The coversion took a couple of hours. 
Careful taping, and measuring and cut it out with a jig saw and 
touched it up afterwards with a dremel tool.  A speaker upgrade will 
have come this winter.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> Bear in mind, that while you can easily cut your stock radio 

mounting

>> bracket to accept a newer DIN-size unit, the original mounting
>> brackets are a "short supply" item. We have a limited number of 

them

>> available from cars that we remanufacture or company cars here that
>> get new stereos and therefore a new DIN-cutout radio mounting 

bracket.

>>  Think twice before cutting up one of the few remaining originals, 

the

>> day may come when you (or someone else) would like to have it.
>> 
>> http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?

PID=3122&Qty=1&ShowCart=true

>> 
>> James Espey
>> DMC (Texas)
>> http://www.delorean.com
>> 800/USA-DMC1
>> 

[moderator snip]





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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 19:30:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Automatic transmission shift point

The shift points can be changed slightly by fussing with the cable
that connects the shift computer to the throttle spool. This is not
going to help you much, your problem is a malfunctioning shift computer.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Josh Krady" <josh_at_dml_j...> wrote:

>> My delorean seems to wait way to long to shift from first to second

and then it shifts to second and then right to third. Is there any way
that anyone knows of to adjust the timing, or if its  not the timing?
What could it be? Any help would be awesome. 

>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> josh
>> ------------------
>> Josh Krady
>> From my cell phone 
>> http://www.mxpxboi.com
>> http://www.gamestartonline.com
>> ------------------








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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 15:41:24 -0400
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Renting out the DMC

I would personally go for $400-$500 for the day.  I doubt they know  
anyone else with a DeLorean, they will probably pay whatever you tell  
them the cost is.  Be sure to check with your insurance company to be  
sure you are covered for a situation like this in a convention center  
or whatnot.

-Patrick C.
1880


On Sep 16, 2005, at 2:09 PM, Videobob Moseley wrote:


>> I have several local events that want to rent my car for display to  
>> be used
>> for an 80's themed
>> business conference or something like that...
>> I have no idea what I should charge for this.
>> What is the going rate for something like this, for a full day of  
>> displaying
>> the car for a photo
>> shoot, or display?
>> I was thinking about $200.00.
>> Is that too high, too low or just about right?
>>
>> Does anyone here have much experience with this?
>> Thanks,
>> - Videobob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see  
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http:// 
>> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Patrick Conlon
Vin 1880








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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 19:40:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Renting out the DMC

More imporant than what they actually pay you is that you HAVE to
insist on a "Certificate of Insurance". A static display is worth less
than a moving display, the length of time that they use it, if they
modify the car in any way for the event, etc. For a day it is worth
anywhere from $200 up. If you are expected to drive the car to the
event they should pay more and feed you. Usually they arrange for a
tow truck to pick up and return cars. Your insurance will not cover
any problems during a "commercial use" of your vehicle. Check with
your agent. Generally the event planner provides everyone with
insurance. Use common sense and don't leave anything valuable or loose
in the car. Document the car's condition prior to the event so if
anything happens there is no argument that it was like that before.
Try to get some pictures of it or video for future events to show off
the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>> I have several local events that want to rent my car for display to

be used 

>> for an 80's themed
>> business conference or something like that...
>> I have no idea what I should charge for this.
>> What is the going rate for something like this, for a full day of

displaying 

>> the car for a photo
>> 








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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 19:47:31 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Renting out the DMC

I'm sure there are plenty of references in the archives, but the
one that comes to mind first was an article James wrote in the
first issue of the Zine.  If memory serves me, it was $400 a day
and that was quite a few years ago.

If the event is local (no significant driving or transport cost)
and you are doing it to promote the DeLorean as much as for the
PR of the event, I would say a reasonable base price is $500/day.
Note: Most museums can ask in excess of $2000 a day for displays.

When I do events with my vehicles, I try to at least cover all my
transport costs and costs of print DMC info flyers to hand out,
however, when there is TV coverage, etc., I usually reduce the
price significantly if I can get some DeLorean info broadcast. 

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>> I have several local events that want to rent my car for display 

to be used 

>> for an 80's themed
>> business conference or something like that...
>> I have no idea what I should charge for this.
>> What is the going rate for something like this, for a full day of 

displaying 

>> the car for a photo
>> shoot, or display?
>> I was thinking about $200.00.
>> Is that too high, too low or just about right?
>> 
>> Does anyone here have much experience with this?
>> Thanks,
>> - Videobob







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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 15:57:52 -0400
From: "L. Sandel" <ls_at_dml_chickencow.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: I hate my doors

I too have had frustrating problems with my door seals.  I have Grady's set 
and they've yet to properly break in (after being installed for several 
YEARS).  Of course, installation seems to be a bit of a voodoo art that 
doesn't seem to be very documented.

Rob mentioned to me a procedure that they use that reshapes the seal mount 
in the trouble areas (pretty much the area around the headliner).  I 
*believe* that they grind the seal mount in such a way that it is 
effectively angled outward and keeps the seal from being pinched.  I made 
some notes on the process years ago but they're long gone and I've been 
unsuccessful at wringing the procedure out of them since.

Until I can get it sorted out, I've moved the passenger seal off the 
mounting and wedged it between the lip and the windshield glass (I never 
drive in the rain).  Door closes smooth as glass now...

...and half the reason it closes so smoothly is because I screwed around 
with the stiker pins for so long with bad seal fittment.  This includes 
grinding away a part of the rear captive nut area so I could get the pin 
another 1-2mm up and away from the body (see my previous threads on lost 
captive nut  :) .  All that work never made a real difference in assisting the 
seal fittment, but the door shuts so smoothly now that you think it's not 
actually latching.

-Luke
10270 






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