Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2889
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:25 Sep 2005 16:19:48 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Cold water valve
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. Re: Galvanic corrosion
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

3. Re: Help me please
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

4. RE: Help me please
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

5. RE: Cold water valve
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

6. RE: engine with no cat
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

7. Big Thank You to the AZ-D
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. DIN for Standard Bracket Trade Anyone?
From: "Josh Haldeman" <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

9. Re: Big Thank You to the AZ-D
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Galvanic corrosion
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

11. LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help
From: "Duke" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

12. J.Z.D Automotive Hall Of Fame
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

13. Re: Cold water valve
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

14. Re :linear door lock actuators
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: battery voltage loss
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

16. Re: Help me please
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

17. JZD Article In NYT Style Magazine
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

18. Re: Cooling fans
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

19. LEDs for the A/C panel, head light saver and mode switch
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: engine with no cat
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

21. Fanzilla Clones
From: Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

22. Re: engine with no cat
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Re: Steering rack boot installation
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

24. Re: Galvanic corrosion
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

25. Re: Time Machine at Pigeon Forge
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 12:55:12 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Cold water valve

That's the heater core valve.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Ed Kane
Sent: Saturday, September 24, 2005 8:12 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Cold water valve

What is the purpose of the cold water valve located on the cooling hose rite
behind the engine. Thank you



		
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 Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. 

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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 18:25:49 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Galvanic corrosion

Charles - This is a good site for basic information like this.  I 
haven't seen this kind of data presented this way.  The military 
specification manuals express it differently, but this site will work 
fine.  They propose an "anodic" index, which is just a measure of the 
galvanic potential for each material.  If the materials are close 
together in terms of this value, then no corrosion will occur (all 
things being equal).  The farther apart they are in the anodic index, 
the worse the corrosive potential will be.  The stainless steels that 
we have in the car are listed as the "18% chromium type", with a value 
of .50.  The engine block and other aluminum bits are probably in the 
category "Aluminum, cast alloys other than silicon", with a value 
of .95.  The distance between these values is .45.  The "normal" 
carbon-based steels used for most bolts are at .85, while the cadmium 
plating used on many bolts is also .95.  So, the difference in anodic 
values with the aluminum is only 10 at the most.  The paragraph above 
the table on the site says that in a harsh environment, the difference 
should not be more than .15 to avoid galvanic corrosion.  Therefore, 
all things being equal, there is a concern with using stainless steel.

However, the additive packages in most good aluminum-compatible 
antifreeze products are designed to prevent this kind of corrosion, or 
at least slow it way down.  When the antifreeze is old, the additives 
dissipate, leaving the system open to this type of damage.  As has 
been said on this List many times, change your antifreeze every two 
years and you should be fine.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Charlesdos Mavor" <charlesmajor_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>> Here is one more site, it gives the numbers and limits. I know that
>> there are some really smart people on the list that can break it all
>> down for us. So, my question is should we be using plastics? Small
>> changes like the SS water return pipe and the SS coolant bottle may 

be

>> problems in 15 or 20 years for the block. I am asking not slaming
>> products (I have the SS pipe and want the bottle).
>> 
>> http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm
>> 
>> Charles








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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 18:25:20 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Help me please

The buzzing is the frequency valve running-should run constantly.
Check to make sure the large vacuum hose (not the small lines) on the
back right (passenger) side of the intake is connected. Should be
clamped on there so it doesn't leak. Also make sure all your spark
wires are seated and connecting with the spark plug, sometimes they're
on but just not "on" and making contact. I'd say you have a large
vacuum leak somewhere or a bad spark wire connection is your problem.
-----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 18:31:11 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Help me please

That's the Frequency Valve which makes the buzzing.  When it's running 
correctly it will buzz all the time and sound like an angry cricket.  Check 
and make sure you plugged in your LAMBDA Thermal Switch (under the intake 
manifold) and that you're Full Throttle Microswitch is plugged in correctly 
and also that the switch is not stuck.

To check your LAMBDA Thermal Switch reach under the back of the intake when 
the motor is cold.  It's the first switch on the passenger side of the 
engine.

Also, what kind of coil did you use?  I have had problems with every kind of 
coil except the original one.  Try putting that back on.  Why replace if the 
car ran fine?

Also, be sure to double check your spark plug wires.  If you did it one at a 
time you're probably fine but I have had these things not want to "click" 
onto the end of the spark plug and it wasn't sparking properly.

Jeff in NC



>>From: Ed Kane <wingnut702001_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Help me please
>>Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 07:04:18 -0700 (PDT)
>>
>>
>>
>>Hello everyone,  I need some help.  My D was running fine.  It would idle 
>>around 800 rpms.  No problems.  Now i just changed the water pump on it so 
>>i had the top of the motor apart as you all know.  I also put a new 
>>distributor cap on and new plug wires,  I changed the plugs about a month 
>>ago. I know i put all the plugs on rite cause i was very careful and did 
>>one at a time.  I put the top of the motor together double checked all the 
>>vaccum lines,  looked in the work manual and made sure they where all going 
>>to the rite places.  Now its the moment of truth.  I turn the key and the 
>>engine just cranked and cranked.  after a while i start to smell a little 
>>gas.  So  i stop let it sit for a minute and turn the key and it fires for 
>>half a second and then quits.  So i took the air cleaner assy. off and 
>>squirted starting fluid in the air intake and it fires rite up and keeps 
>>running.  Why didn't it start on its own?  So now its running at 1000 rpms 
>>then ihear this slight buzzing noise kick
>>  on and the engine goes up to 1500 rpms.  the buzzing stops and the engine 
>>goes down to 1000 again.  Buzz clicks on back up to 1500.  Now the car 
>>never did this before and i was able to trace the buzz from an electic plug 
>>that is attached to a fuel line that is located on the passenger side of 
>>the engine.  its sits kinda on top of the valve cover. The line doesnt go 
>>to an injector it comes from under the car and attaches to the rite side of 
>>the fuel distributor.  So anyways while its buzzing i pulled the plug and 
>>it went down to 1000 rpms.  Now the whole time the car is running its 
>>running a little ruff.  Ive seen cars run when you have plug wires in the 
>>wrong place.  Its not running this bad , just a little ruffer than what it 
>>used to.  I take the car for a test drive, and it pretty much fell on its 
>>face.  No power,  Does any body have any ideas.  Thank u
>>
>>                                                               Ed
>>
>>I also put a new coil on it too.
>>
>>
>>__________________________________________________
>>Do You Yahoo!?
>>Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
>>http://mail.yahoo.com
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>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 18:31:48 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Cold water valve

I believe you're talking about the Heater Control Valve.  It controls the 
flow of coolant to the heater system.

Jeff in NC



>>From: Ed Kane <wingnut702001_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Cold water valve
>>Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 07:12:19 -0700 (PDT)
>>
>>What is the purpose of the cold water valve located on the cooling hose 
>>rite behind the engine. Thank you
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>---------------------------------
>>Yahoo! for Good
>>  Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 18:34:17 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: engine with no cat

Heck yeah it sounded healthy!  Unfortunately, you really aren't supposed to 
remove the Cat so I suggest a high flow Cat.  I've used one of these in a 
custom exhaust setup and it sounded great!

DMC has a great performance exhaust with High Flow Cats and Special T Auto 
just came out with a custom made Cat that is a direct bolt on replacement 
for the stock one.

I had all my stuff custom made but the vendors have some great solutions for 
you!!

Jeff



>>From: Ed Kane <wingnut702001_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] engine with no cat
>>Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 07:15:28 -0700 (PDT)
>>
>>
>>What did the car sound like when the cat was removed.  Did it sound 
>>healthy.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>__________________________________________________
>>Do You Yahoo!?
>>Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
>>http://mail.yahoo.com
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>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 18:52:22 -0000
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Big Thank You to the AZ-D

Group-
   I got a chance to stay in Phoenix for about two weeks and decided 
to post on the DML and see if anyone wanted to get together for lunch. 
What I got was three e-mail from members of the AZ-D and two phone 
calls ! WOW! They decided to get a meet together just for me. I got to 
meet 6 Delorean owners and 4 Deloreans. I was blown away by their 
hospitality and their love for the Delorean. If you ever get a chance 
to go to AZ be sure and hook up with this bunch. They are top notch. 
Thank you AZ-D for everything. Remember if ANYONE is in Oklahoma be 
sure and call me and we will get together. 

Adam Lee 
VIN 1913







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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 15:33:17 -0400
From: "Josh Haldeman" <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: DIN for Standard Bracket Trade Anyone?

Hey Guys,

I have an original style radio bracket here that I'd like to trade for a DIN style bracket, if someone has one that is cut already.  I don't want to damage the original if someone needs it.  This one is in excellent condition.  All ready to plug in.

If you're interested, or want to know more/see pictures e-mail me off list (jhaldeman(AT)fuse.net) and I'll get right back to you.

Thanks,
Josh

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 21:26:18 -0000
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Big Thank You to the AZ-D

Thanks Adam - it is what AZ-D is all about!!  We enjoyed your company!

Winter is coming and we welcome anyone to our events. Watch for details 
at www.az-d.org!

Randal "The 3M Guy"
www.az-d.org




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> Group-
>>    I got a chance to stay in Phoenix for about two weeks and decided 
>> to post on the DML and see if anyone wanted to get together for 

lunch. 

>> What I got was three e-mail from members of the AZ-D and two phone 
>> calls ! WOW! They decided to get a meet together just for me. I got 

to 

>> meet 6 Delorean owners and 4 Deloreans. I was blown away by their 
>> hospitality and their love for the Delorean. If you ever get a chance 
>> to go to AZ be sure and hook up with this bunch. They are top notch. 
>> Thank you AZ-D for everything. Remember if ANYONE is in Oklahoma be 
>> sure and call me and we will get together. 
>> 
>> Adam Lee 
>> VIN 1913







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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 14:57:56 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: Galvanic corrosion

Charlesdos Mavor wrote:


>>Here is one more site, it gives the numbers and limits. I know that
>>there are some really smart people on the list that can break it all
>>down for us. So, my question is should we be using plastics? Small
>>changes like the SS water return pipe and the SS coolant bottle may be
>>problems in 15 or 20 years for the block. I am asking not slaming
>>products (I have the SS pipe and want the bottle).
>>
>>http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm
>>
>>Charles
>>
>>
>>
>>

Here's my 2 cents on the matter, though it might not be right.

It seems to me that as long as you properly ground all the components in
question, it would eliminate any conductivity issues you might have
through the coolant, as electrons would rather flow through the dead
short of the ground as opposed to the higher resistance of the coolant.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.6/111 - Release Date: 9/23/2005






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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 16:42:51 -0500
From: "Duke" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help

Welp, its been awhile since I messed around in the relay compartment so when 
I went to install the new fan fail relay update, I found a REAL mess.

This was probably done about 15 years ago (I've had the car for 19 years 
now) by a shop that I used to use before I started working on the car 
myself. (not the current shop I use though)  Anywho, its a HUGE mess.  It 
seems, according to the 'cooling fan circuit' that I'm missing a relay (only 
6 on the long row instead of 7) and it looks like the cooling fan relay and 
the thermal trip braker are missing from the car.  Now, I don't know how its 
been working correctly for so long, but here are some pics of the setup they 
had.  For all I know, the setup I had was a good setup, but I know it isn't 
right and I want to get it back to the correct way.  (Unless anyone thinks 
it would be better to put it back like it was)

Here's a pic of what I'm working with (I left the pics big so that you could 
see everything)  :) 
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//ratsnest1.jpg
(HUGE mess! In the left hand corner are the cooling fan relays.  You can see 
a connector that's missing a wire on the other relay.  I accidently pulled 
out the fuseable linked wire.  It was just like the other one and it went to 
the other green/black fan wire.

Here is a diagram of how they were ran:
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//currentrelay.jpg
(**sorry, at the top, I list the wire being 'brown'.  After looking closely 
its actually a brown/slate)

Here is a pic of the relays themselves:
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//fanrelays1.jpg
(again, the yellow connector that is missing a wire is the one that had a 30 
amp fuse going to the black/green of the DMC)

Now, this is where I get a little confused.  Here is a pic showing where it 
gets power from (I'm guessing?)
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//ratsnest2.jpg
That wire goes from there down to the 6 relays and daisy chains into most of 
them.  (BTW, yes, I know about the RPM relay but that's a story for another 
day  :)  )


I pulled out the blue relay and it only had one black/brown wire attached to 
it (the center pin I'm guessing goes to the 'fan fail light)  I cut it so I 
could redo the relay.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//originalrelay.jpg
(lovley huh?)

Now here's where it REALLY gets interesting! I tried hooking it back up like 
factory and then I realized I was missing another relay!!!  I took the blue 
relay plug and hooked up the black/green wires (for the fans) to the two 
outside terminals, and hooked the small black/orange wire back up to the 
center terminal (for the light) I noticed that a thick brown/orange was 
originally in the back terminal (shown in pic with a connector on it for God 
only knows whyhttp://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//originalrelay.jpg ) 
, however according to the DMC diagram, its supposed to be a black/slate. 
I'm so confused on what I've got goin on I don't know where to begin!  I 
went ahead and hooked up the black/slate to the rear terminal, but it goes 
somewhere back into the wiring harness and not to a thermal trip (which I'm 
missing)

Basically, what I *THINK* I have is about a 10 guage black/slate wire and a 
12 guage black/orange wire which I'm not sure where it goes. They seem to be 
stock and unmodified b/c they go back into the wiring w/o any cuts.  Also I 
seem to be missing the cooling fan relay (item #5 in the workshop manual sec 
M:18:10) plus the Thermal Trip (item #4 M:18:10).  I'm not sure the thermal 
trip is gone.  Does anyone have a pic showing where its at in the relay 
compartment?

Maybe someone can look at how its hooked up and figure out what they had 
going and if it was a good or a bad thing.  I'm thinkin bad b/c of the power 
straight to the framing like that 
(http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//ratsnest2.jpg  ) but it did work. 
Maybe I should have just left it alone since it worked, and it has worked 
for the last 15 years...but I was really wanting to install the new fan fix 
and have the fans stagger and also have the 'fan fail light' working.

Thanks for reading all of this and thanks for any help!

Duke
















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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 21:57:57 -0000
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: J.Z.D Automotive Hall Of Fame

Hello All.
I just came from a classic car show here in Michigan & This women
came up & started to talk to me about my car & the De Lorean History. 
To my surprise this women said that the Automotive Hall Of Fame here
in 
Dearborn Michigan ( whom she is on the Board ) is concidering John Z.
Delorean 
as an Inductee and will be eligible in 2006. She also said that I
could find out 
more about it on their website but, I haven't found anything as of
yet. 
The baord has already contacted John widow about this ( so She says). 
 I'll keep looking & keep eveyone advised.
Lawrence   






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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 22:28:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Cold water valve

That valve (actually in front of the motor) shuts the heater core off
when you put the mode switch in MAX.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757






--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ed Kane <wingnut702001_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> What is the purpose of the cold water valve located on the cooling

hose rite behind the engine. Thank you

>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 		
>> ---------------------------------
>> Yahoo! for Good
>>  Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 18:52:10 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re :linear door lock actuators

 
 
$4.08 from MCM Electronics.
 
Can you top this for the Door Lock  Actuator?
 
_http://mcm.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/mcm/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp
;jsessionid=533UKN2H5LIIICXFEOFCFGAK2URYWIV1?SKU=60-8570&N=0_ 
(http://mcm.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/mcm/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp;jsessionid=533U
KN2H5LIIICXFEOFCFGAK2URYWIV1?SKU=60-8570&N=0) 



Message: 9
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2005 18:25:25 -0000
From: "Qume Fox" <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: linear door lock actuators

Hey  all.

I saw in one the the recent All electronics flyers I got that they  had a 
supply 
of automotive linear door lock actuators for $5.50  each.

I know DPNW's door actuator kits have allready had all the  engineering 
work done and just bolt on, but if you like doing things  yourself, you can't 
really beat the price so I thought i'd  share.

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?
category=search&item=DLA-1&type=store

Chris
VIN#  3209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean/



 
Thank  you,
 
Dē & 6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 22:07:19 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: battery voltage loss

Wow now thats what I call alternator 101, you educated me more than I 
ever would have been on how the charging system works.

I think this should be in the tech info files on the DMCNEWS site, 
Troubleshooting, battery problems. 

Thanks,

Berie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> 
>> 
>> A little 101 on alternator basics.
>> 
>>  A lot of people might think that power comes from the battery,  But 
>> that is not true,the source for all of that energy is the gas tank. 

<SNIP>






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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 22:26:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Help me please

Also make sure you reattached ALL the ground wires back onto the
intake manifold. On the right side there is one and on the left side
top there is one which is a cluster of several and one by itself. The
one on the right will affect the Lambda so check that it is attached.
You could also have a bad connection in the plug that goes onto the
Frequency valve. Make sure the wires haven't backed out and they are
nice and clean and the plug snaps on.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_m...>
wrote:

>> That's the Frequency Valve which makes the buzzing.  When it's running 
>> correctly it will buzz all the time and sound like an angry cricket.

 Check 

>> and make sure you plugged in your LAMBDA Thermal Switch (under the in








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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 19:18:59 -0400
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: JZD Article In NYT Style Magazine

Just thought you all might like to take a look at this.  It is very  
negative in places, but this is nothing we haven't seen before.


http://www.nytimes.com/2005/09/18/style/tmagazine/TM1931DEL.html

-Patrick C.
1880




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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 19:18:45 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Cooling fans

Robert,
 
Take a look at this link and let us know if it helps...
 
_http://www.time-traveler.org/delorean/cooling.htm_ 
(http://www.time-traveler.org/delorean/cooling.htm) 
 
Robert Lingo
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 9:45 AM
To:  dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Cooling fans

I just  discovered that one of my cooling fan blades seperated from the 
cooling fan  motor shaft.  The blade was just sitting there lodged against 
the  radiator.  There was no damage caused by the fan to the radiator  
luckily.  I tried, unsuccessfully, to pop the blade back to the motor  shaft.

Has anyone ever had this happen?  It looks like a heck of a  procedure to 
replace a fan motor.  I'd really hate to have to remove  the radiator to do 
this.  Any suggestions???  Thanks  yall.

Lingo #2034 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 00:04:08 +0000
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: LEDs for the A/C panel, head light saver and mode switch

I must really be missing something here. It cant be that hard to get to 
these items
Questions:
1. Step #4 in the book "put hand behind the centre console" -Looks like my 
hand needs to be half as wide and twice as long. What is the deal? Do I need 
to remove the centre console?

2. Do I need all white LEDs or color to match the panel?

3.The bulbs are sliding back into the metal frame, and I cant reach them. Do 
I need 10in fingers to push them from behind?

4. The mode switch is behind the metal panel right? So how do I get to that?

5. Can put in the head light saver without removing the centre console?

I know I will feel stupid when you guys fill me in on the way to do these, 
so bring on the dunce cap.
Charles 16835






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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 23:53:09 -0000
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: engine with no cat

The best way to describe a DeLorean's sound with no cat is raspier, 
and maybe slightly throatier. It's not something you can tell a 
difference with at all inside the car. It just sounds a little bit 
tougher while idling (though we're talking a very slight change here).

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ed Kane <wingnut702001_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> 
>> What did the car sound like when the cat was removed?  Did it sound 

healthy?






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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 23:51:43 -0400
From: Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Fanzilla Clones

The Zilla line will be back.
That's the word from the man behind the name.
(According to website: Bob Zilla BA EE, Electrical Engineer Pratt 
Institute NY 76
  Graduated _at_dml_ top of class with Honors. Earned exemption from Fields 
final 'Calculus for Wave Theory & Analysis'
-Yes, there is a human life behind all the work and manufacturing.
And life's little twists and turns (along with the steady demand from 
discriminating DeLorean owners!) have depleted most of the existing 
supply of Zilla products.  But I am told their new facility will once 
again start producing the products we've come to expect to be on the 
shelf when we need them.
So, lets all keep any more hurricanes from happening, o.k.?
Oliver
#10694

From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fanzilla Clones

Has anyone heard from Bob Zilla?   Seem like the Zilla line has 
disappeared from the radar except for whatever stock vendors had on 
hand.   Do any vendors still have Zilla products and are they still 
being made? 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 05:23:40 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: engine with no cat

16851 has a hollowed out cat, and it does have a bit nicer tone to it. 
The car is abit peppier with the hollowed out cat compared to my stock 
cars 2524 & 16634.

The stock cars you can barley hear run, but 16851 does have a nice 
unique tone to it. I like it, and since we don't have emissions where I 
live, I'm keeping it that way.


-Joe O'Brien

2524,
16634,
16851











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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 00:13:01 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Steering rack boot installation

Dani,

On 9/23/05, stainlessilusion <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote:

>> Sliding the new ones on huh? If you have the rack out of the car it's
>> that simple, but if you have it in-you will have one hell of a time
>> since the boots openings are smaller then the rack housing.


I must be missing something.

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/images%5C520.gif

I don't see anything in the way of these boots, except perhaps the tie
rod ends (which I'm also replacing). Last time I had the car up in the
air and the wheels off, I also didn't see anything in the way. Looked
like a simple matter and others have told me you just slide them on.
What am I missing?


>> The rack
>> takes gear old (what kind? 90W I think-I can't remember exactly, and I
>> used synthetic), and that's a chore to fill in the car also. So, if
>> you want to do it quick-take the rack out and install/fill everything.
>> Otherwise you'll spend more time trying to fill and get the boots on
>> then you would have taking the rack out. -----Dani B. #5003


So, once I get the boots on, I need to fill them with gear oil? How do
I do that? There obviously aren't any openings, and they're just held
on with clamps.

-Ryan


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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 11:53:44 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Galvanic corrosion

So how is it OK to use stainless steel exhaust manifold studs like some of the vendors sell?

Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On 9/24/2005 Toby Peterson Wrote:

Charles - This is a good site for basic information like this.  I 
haven't seen this kind of data presented this way.  The military 
specification manuals express it differently, but this site will work 
fine.  They propose an "anodic" index, which is just a measure of the 
galvanic potential for each material.  If the materials are close 
together in terms of this value, then no corrosion will occur (all 
things being equal).  The farther apart they are in the anodic index, 
the worse the corrosive potential will be.  The stainless steels that 
we have in the car are listed as the "18% chromium type", with a value 
of .50.  The engine block and other aluminum bits are probably in the 
category "Aluminum, cast alloys other than silicon", with a value 
of .95.  The distance between these values is .45.  The "normal" 
carbon-based steels used for most bolts are at .85, while the cadmium 
plating used on many bolts is also .95.  So, the difference in anodic 
values with the aluminum is only 10 at the most.  The paragraph above 
the table on the site says that in a harsh environment, the difference 
should not be more than .15 to avoid galvanic corrosion.  Therefore, 
all things being equal, there is a concern with using stainless steel.

However, the additive packages in most good aluminum-compatible 
antifreeze products are designed to prevent this kind of corrosion, or 
at least slow it way down.  When the antifreeze is old, the additives 
dissipate, leaving the system open to this type of damage.  As has 
been said on this List many times, change your antifreeze every two 
years and you should be fine.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 08:03:51 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Time Machine at Pigeon Forge

VB

Is one of the names, the guy in the Kansas?  Who advertised a "Back 
from the Future"  D?  He was written up in DW years ago.

BOB






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