Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2891
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:26 Sep 2005 15:11:57 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Gold DeLorean Trip Thank You
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. RE:LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Galvanic corrosion
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Time Machine at Pigeon Forge
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Re: Big Thank You to the AZ-D
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

6. Best LEDs for center console
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: Re: engine with no cat
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

8. Suspicious eBay car update
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

9. Re: LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

10. Hard start problem
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

11. Re: Steering rack boot installation
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

12. Re: Steering rack boot installation
From: "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk>

13. DMCNEWS.com forsale ads
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

14. Chick Magnet with my wife also in the car
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

15. Bringing Pilot25 Back To Test Track Tomorrow
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

16. Fan Module Offer
From: "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>

17. Re: Hard start problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

18. Re: Best LEDs for center console
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. vin 941 value
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: Best LEDs for center console
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Re: Big Thank You to the AZ-D
From: "Daniel F." <daniel_at_dml_ramblerman.com>

22. Re: tire rubbing?
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

23. Re: LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help
From: "Duke" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

24. Re: Hard start problem
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Big Thank You to the AZ-D
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 16:38:29 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Gold DeLorean Trip Thank You

One more thing I forgot to add.  If anyone would like Carl's mailing 
address to send him a thank you card, e-mail me offlist at: 
jeepno1_397(at)hotmail.com

Matt
VIN: 2953
Frostburg, MD







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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 14:20:43 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: RE:LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help

Duke,
 
Wow your relay compartment really looks dusty, and yes you really should  
properly fix the RPM relay circuit.
 
It looks like someone either didn't understand how the cooling fan circuit  
is supposed to work or didn't want to spend the time and effort to fix it  
properly.  I hope that the relay sockets are screwed into the bracket and  that 
the picture was taken after you recently unscrewed them to do some  work.
 
Take a look at this diagram courtesy of John Hervey, who's site has a  number 
of excellent pictures and diagrams. Hervey!, Hervey! , Hervey!
 
_http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/relay-compartment-references.html_
 
(http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/relay-compartment-references.html) 
 
I have attached and uploaded a photo of the Cooling Fan and HVAC 3rd/4th  
Speed Circuit Breakers to the photo section
 
As an aside... I extend an open invitation to anyone with electrical  
problems to contact me to see if I can help.
 
 
Dē & 6530

 
 
BTW, I hope that is just some dirt on your left thumbnail and not what we  
physicians call a splinter hemorrhage under the nail because that would  make 
all your electrical problems a moot issue. Please let me know.
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 12:45:06 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Galvanic corrosion

 
 
That might work but, I don't think anyone is going to take the time and  
effort needed to run a ground wire to each and every section  aluminum coolant 
pipe, the radiator, heater core T and their stainless  steel coolant bottle.
 
 
 In a message dated 9/25/2005 12:20:18 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com writes:

It seems  to me that as long as you properly ground all the components in
question,  it would eliminate any conductivity issues you might have
through the  coolant, as electrons would rather flow through the dead
short of the  ground as opposed to the higher resistance of the  coolant.

Dē &  6530



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 15:11:47 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Time Machine at Pigeon Forge

He was written up in DCS a few issues ago before PF and said he was coming  
then backed out.
 
His name is Pace and he lives in Kansas city.
He has a  Ghostbusters car and a few other cars as well.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 13:38:01 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Big Thank You to the AZ-D

I heard that the AZ-D people are coming to LV the weekend before SEMA.  
Are there any more details.??

Are any members staying to see SEMA?   We would like to get the D 
people together while in LV.


BOB





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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 19:28:20 +0000
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Best LEDs for center console


I have heard that some brands are better than others. Also, some have said 
that they are not made by anyone.
Charles






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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 13:35:59 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: engine with no cat

My muffler guy, took the muffler off my sons 75 olds and all he has now 
is a stock GM cat.  The cat is one of the old big ones.

The car is surprisingly quite.  Sure it is somewhat louder than with a 
muffler, but not that much.
The car also runs better.

I wonder if anyone has just run a D with a cat and long pipes with no 
muffler.  The pipes muffle the noise but provide very little 
restriction.   This still legal from an emission viewpoint.

Bob






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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 14:40:42 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: Suspicious eBay car update

A while back I posted a suspicious D for sale on eBay (#4574792435 ).  Since
then the car has mysteriously disappeared from eBay.  But they continue to
offer it for sale directly to those showing interest.  The story goes that
the winning bidder could not get financing and that they will sell for
$12,000 and it will be reauctioned if not sold.

Heads up folks.  Could be legit but it smells otherwise.   BTW ... the VIN
used is listed to another owner on this list.

Nick





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 13:27:44 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help

Duke,
Looking over the wiring and pictures, it looks like the mechanic at least 
did the job correctly (although a bit ugly). Each fan has a relay and fuse, 
so the current setup is safe. However, I wouldn't bother trying to get the 
wiring back to stock. It may not be long enough now and you don't want to 
have a bunch of short jumpers in there. So if I was you, I would cut the 
ends off the fan controller and use butt connectors (or better yet solder) 
and connect it directly to the car's wiring.

Let's start with the connector that has the two fused wires. These two 
wires provide power to the fans. Connect each one to the black/green wires 
(order is not important). The third remaining smaller wire on the connector 
is for the fan fail light. This isn't necessary, but it connects to the 
purple/brown wire if you can find it.

On the other fan controller connector, there are two wires. The green wire 
is the ground. Just connect this to any ground point or ground wire. The 
red wire is the 12V trigger wire. This connects to the black/orange wire. 
But from your diagram, you have a black/brown. Follow this wire and see if 
it connects to a black/orange. If not, test to confirm it's the trigger 
wire. You can do this by checking for 12V when the AC compressor has cycled 
on. And with the compressor cycled off and a cool engine, there should be 0 
volts.

Finally, there is the main power wire for the controller. Just run this 
directly to the battery. The brown/slate wire is no longer necessary. 
Remove them from where they split off the brown wire. Wrap the brown wire 
up in electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to prevent it from shorting.

I hope this helps. Should you want to restore to the factory had it, you 
can still skip the circuit breaker connections, because it's bypassed by 
the fan controller. Page M:18:10 of the workshop manual has the schematic 
for this system, which may be helpful.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 04:42 PM 9/24/2005 -0500, you wrote:

>>Welp, its been awhile since I messed around in the relay compartment so when
>>I went to install the new fan fail relay update, I found a REAL mess.
>>
>>This was probably done about 15 years ago (I've had the car for 19 years
>>now) by a shop that I used to use before I started working on the car
>>myself. (not the current shop I use though)  Anywho, its a HUGE mess.  It
>>seems, according to the 'cooling fan circuit' that I'm missing a relay (only
>>6 on the long row instead of 7) and it looks like the cooling fan relay and
>>the thermal trip braker are missing from the car.  Now, I don't know how its
>>been working correctly for so long, but here are some pics of the setup they
>>had.  For all I know, the setup I had was a good setup, but I know it isn't
>>right and I want to get it back to the correct way.  (Unless anyone thinks
>>it would be better to put it back like it was)






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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 13:46:45 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Hard start problem

I'm having a bit of a problem starting my car. When the engine is warm, it 
has the typical hot start problem. After about 20-30 seconds of cranking, 
it finally turns over. It may stumble for another few seconds before it 
gets up to idle speed. But afterwards, the engine runs perfectly. As for 
the fuel system, the accumulator was replaced about 3 years ago. The fuel 
pump/check valve, fuel filter, and O rings in the primary pressure 
regulator were replaced within the last year.

Now here is where it really gets interesting. If the car has been sitting 
for more then a day or two, it has problems cold starting. It will usually 
fire right up for a second then die. This tells me the ignition system is 
working and so is the cold start valve (directly tested as well). Once the 
engine starts, it's just like the hot start were it stumbles for a few 
seconds before reaching idle.

I'm not too sure what the problem is here. The technical manual says for 
hot/cold start problems only, it's the air sensor rest position. However it 
sits flush with the funnel, so I don't think that's the issue. Is it 
possible to have a bad warm up regulator and dirty injectors without 
causing problems once the engine is running? Or do I need to just cave in 
and get a fuel pressure gauge to test the different pressures?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Chris
VIN 4099





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 21:50:55 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Steering rack boot installation

Once you take the tie rod ends off and put the boots on that shaft-the
hard part is installing the end part of the boot onto the housing
itself where the clamp goes. The drivers side wasn't too bad, but the
passenger side took me a long time. There is nothing in the way, it is
just tough because the boot opening is smaller then the housing for a
better/tighter fit-so trying to get them on with the rack installed is
hard due to the limited space you have to work the boot on. If you
have tiny hands you're in luck. -----Dani B. #5003



>>Dani,
>> I must be missing something.
>> -Ryan







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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 21:50:53 -0000
From: "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Steering rack boot installation

Ryan,

About two weeks ago I did this with the rack still in the car. To 
coin an english phrase it was a 'piece of cake'
This is a fairly easy job with the rack in the car, true it probably 
is easier with it out but certinally is not difficult with it left 
in situ. My only tip is to put the rack on full lock on the side you 
are working on, ie; make the rack the shortest lenth on the side you 
are working on. when you have the new boot on, Tie up the larger end 
and then squirt some gear oil in the small end of the boot. Then tie 
that end to. Hope this makes sence.

Chris
vin#4584

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Dani,
>> 
>> On 9/23/05, stainlessilusion <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote:
>
>>> > Sliding the new ones on huh? If you have the rack out of the car 

it's

>>> > that simple, but if you have it in-you will have one hell of a 

time

>>> > since the boots openings are smaller then the rack housing.
>
>> 
>> I must be missing something.
>> 
>> http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/images%5C520.gif
>> 
>> I don't see anything in the way of these boots, except perhaps the 

tie

>> rod ends (which I'm also replacing). Last time I had the car up in 

the

>> air and the wheels off, I also didn't see anything in the way. 

Looked

>> like a simple matter and others have told me you just slide them 

on.

>> What am I missing?
>> 
>
>>> > The rack
>>> > takes gear old (what kind? 90W I think-I can't remember exactly, 

and I

>>> > used synthetic), and that's a chore to fill in the car also. So, 

if

>>> > you want to do it quick-take the rack out and install/fill 

everything.

>>> > Otherwise you'll spend more time trying to fill and get the 

boots on

>>> > then you would have taking the rack out. -----Dani B. #5003
>
>> 
>> So, once I get the boots on, I need to fill them with gear oil? 

How do

>> I do that? There obviously aren't any openings, and they're just 

held

>> on with clamps.
>> 
>> -Ryan








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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 01:06:33 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: DMCNEWS.com forsale ads

I hit an irreversible wrong button tonight and deleted all the "Parts 
and Memoribilia  "for sale" ads on dmcnews.com at 
http://www.dmcnews.com/buynsell.html

(This is the parts for sale page, NOT the car for sale page). If you 
posted something there and still want to advertise it, please repost 
it.  The "parts wanted" page was not affected. 

Dave Swingle (7 hours of driving in the rain does that to me)








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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 22:19:25 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Chick Magnet with my wife also in the car

I guess the car is definitely a chick magnet
 
Last night when we came back from the dinner at Autofest as we were parking  
A girl came up to the car and as we got out she was euphoric over the sight of 
 our DeLorean.
Following her was her girlfriend and we repeated the OH MY GOD ITS A  DELOREAN
 
Well my wife and I decided to shock these two and let them drive it around  
the parking lot.
 
As they got in for pictures they were squealing and making an interesting  
scene.  They got out and I then handed her the keys
 
I thought she was in shock
 
After convincing her that this is a car and works like a car and the gas  
pedal is still on the right and the brake is on the left (automatic) she said ok  
but then said she had an alchoholic drink so she let her friend drive.
 
They got it and drove at a blistering 5-8 mph around the parking lot.
 
The windows were down and we could hear the squeals and shrieks as they  were 
celebrating driving this car.  IN the mean time a third girl came over  and 
it started again.
 
They got out and I took each one for a REAL ride which they all  enjoyed.
 
And in all of this they were so focused on my car (The Raffle  Car) that they 
missed the other 7 until we gave them the keys and in  answering some 
questions showed them the other cars.
 
This was one of the best chick encounters I have had the response was  great
 
I believe they will be writing an article for us in the magazine  because 
they wanted to tell someone and were afraid no one would believe  them'
 
By the way they were all cute. LOL
 
Nice bunch of kids we enjoyed talking to them 
 
Not bad attract chicks with your wife in the car
 
Ken & Chris 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 02:32:35 +0100
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: Bringing Pilot25 Back To Test Track Tomorrow

Hi everyone

With a little help from Autocar magazine and Montupet UK, Pilot25 will recreate the famous cover of the magazine in 1981.

I will take a good few pictures , but watch out for a full magazine article in next months edition of Autocar.

They are doing a 25 year on look at the car, so I better get back to cleaning!!

Alistair McCann
Belfast.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 03:25:31 -0000
From: "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>
Subject: Fan Module Offer

Hello Group,

Over the past few months i have redesigned my orgional fan control 
module i have made over 2 years ago.  Because of the lack of 
fanzillia units available i have produced a small quantity and would 
like to offer them to the delorean comunity.  My fan module offers a 
similar sequencer technology that offers the same staging of the fan 
modules as the orgional fanzilla.  Using high quality production 
circuit boards, relays, fire proof abs plastic casing,  i believe i 
have a product that is of the same quality as other modules on the 
market.  Each unit is painstakenly hand assembled to ensure 
quality.  The unit runs on a small microcontroller and is most 
likely the most advance component your delorean will own.  Unit 
offers a simple 10 minute installation, with no cutting, soldering 
or any other complex installation,  just plug the unit it and forget 
about it.  Multistep staging ensures smooth engine operation in even 
the hottest condition.  If you are intersted in one of my units i 
have a small quantity avaible.  Please email me at dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net 
for more information.  Sorry for advertising guys,  but i wanted to 
share my item with the rest of the community.

-Shain Brannan






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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 03:06:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Hard start problem

If you can rule out the accumulater and the cold start system then you
have to consider the warm-up regulator. Make sure it is tight onto the
valve cover, the electrical plug is on tight, and the vacuum hoses are
hooked up right and are not leaking. If everything is OK then a
pressure gauge set-up can confirm if it is working correctly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>> I'm having a bit of a problem starting my car. When the engine is

warm, it 

>> has the typical hot start problem. After about 20-30 seconds of

cranking, 

>>








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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 23:23:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Best LEDs for center console

Interesting....

Superbrightleds.com is awesome.  I have bought every
LED I own from them, and have had very minor problems
--> Only thing that irritates me about them is their
shipping takes almost a whole week (Missouri to
Florida for me), but their products are very nice. 
For the center console, I used 1 red LED (for the red
circle on the air temperature gauge) and 3 blue ones
for the rest.  I haven't regretted it since day one. 
For the lock doors and cooling fan fail - both red
LEDs as well, and a amber one for the rear defrost.  I
think they are a great way to cut down o the "load"
the headlight switch carries and keeps the bulbs from
warping/melting the center console plate.

I have LEDs in every light socket of my car except the
headlights, taillights, headlight and hazard switch,
glove box, and battery light.  Everything else - side
markers, center console, dome lights, trunk, engine,
binnacle/instrument gauge cluster, shift indicator
(auto trans), and doors all are LED'd now.  I think
they REALLY modernize the car, and are wonderful to
have for car shows (door lights), mnimizing wear on
parts (headlight switch), reduce heat, and add some
nice color.  Every light I have is "colored" for the
particular function - amber for low fuel and defrost,
green for turn signals and headlight indicator, red
for door ajar, brake, and so on.  If anyone wants to
know which LED # for what part of the car, let me
know.  I have them all written down and recorded so
it's no problem.  Anyhoo, that's my story on LEDs.

Jeremiah

--- Charles Major <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:


>> 
>> I have heard that some brands are better than
>> others. Also, some have said 
>> that they are not made by anyone.
>> Charles




		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 01:40:49 -0000
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: vin 941 value

Group,
I ran across this car today on a used car lot and am considering 
making an offer.  Please give me guesses on what it might be worth.

Vin #941
Engine:  Turbo equipped
5 Speed:
Miles:  31,700
Car appears to be quite original with a turbo conversion.

He is forth owner.  He has a good portion of service records from the 
first two owners, including the sales and loan agreement and original 
factory manuals.

Body:
small (like very small) imperfection/dent on ridge of driver fender
small (like almost a scratch) imperfection/dent below left mirror.
Front bumper/fascia has crack on right corner from hitting something.
Top of fascia has small what looks like a cigarette burn.
Cracked passenger mirror.
All glass in windows is good.

Transmission:
The stick feels much looser than my present Delorean.
He says the car sometimes feels funny going into 2nd or is difficult, 
but doesn't pop out.

Mechanical:
Engine runs well, (I drove it on the freeway)  The car does have an 
exhaust leak that appears to be from the manifold, so needs new 
exhaust gaskets.

Both power windows DON'T work.

Interior:
No cracks in seats or dash.. Carpet is a bit dirty, but good condition.
The headliner is sagging and appears to be original.

Engine compartment:  Clean, and looks quite original and the turbo was 
put on it in the beginning.  The antifreeze tank is still original, 
and no mods appear to have been performed on this vehicle.

This is a pretty low VIN car, and appears a good complete restore 
project as it is a 5 speed, black interior, has the hood gas cap,
and is driveable.

You guys want to advise me on how much I should consider offering?
Thanks millions.

Dale Funk
Vin #4984.






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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 11:54:01 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Best LEDs for center console

I got mine at superbrightleds.com because of previous postings with 
part numbers and lots of information on them. They work great.

John

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>> 
>> I have heard that some brands are better than others. Also, some have 

said 

>> that they are not made by anyone.
>> Charles







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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 22:34:07 -0700
From: "Daniel F." <daniel_at_dml_ramblerman.com>
Subject: Re: Big Thank You to the AZ-D

Hi Bob,

Yes, some of us from AZ-D are going to LV. Right now it is
planned for the weekend of October 22-23. Marv and Robert
up there are doing a great job of figuring out some of the agenda
for the trip.

Myself and two other members just got back from our 1,000 mile
weekend trip to the Cruisin' for a Cure car show in Costa Mesa,
California. So, as you can see, we certainly like doing the road trip
thing!! Stay tuned and we will keep the DML and www.az-d.org
updated with current trip details.

Thanks,
Daniel Fox
AZ-D Treasurer/Webmaster
VIN 10920 - Powered by EFI

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Bob Brandys wrote:


>>I heard that the AZ-D people are coming to LV the weekend before SEMA. Are there any more details.??
>>
>>Are any members staying to see SEMA?   We would like to get the D 
>>people together while in LV.
>>
>>BOB
>>





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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 05:16:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: tire rubbing?

Peter,
Check your Lower control arms!
I had a similar thing happen to me last year and what
it was was a 2 inch crack in the lower control arm
which caused the tyre to rub on the fender.The control
arms are of a pretty woeful construction and I found
that the other arm was badly rusted and about too
break aswell.
But don't drive the car until you've located the
problem.Something is definately amiss

Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney

--- "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov> wrote:


>> I'm having a problem that concerns me quite a bit.
>> Every now and then for the past few months when
>> turning to the left while going over a bump I would
>> hear a brief scraping sound. Last night while
>> parking I had to muscle the steering wheel quite a
>> bit while not moving to fit into a tight spot. When
>> I left that spot a few hours later I noticed that
>> the scraping sound was much more prominent,
>> happening only at one particular orientation of the
>> front wheels. Got out and took a look, and I see
>> that my right front tire is rubbing the front of the
>> fender well, when wheel is turned to that
>> orientation! Doesn't rub during normal
>> straight-ahead driving, but most noticeable when
>> turning slightly left. This can't be good. 
>> Thinking of the recent thread on this list on
>> tie-rod ends and the statement there that the
>> steering  gear is under the greatest stress during
>> the specific maneuver I did while parking, it makes
>> me think something deformed. Car handled fine for
>> the 60 mile ride back home (tho I was a bit
>> nervous), no change from the usual, which I have
>> always been very happy with. But can't reconcile
>> this with the fact that the front of my tire now
>> scrapes the wheel well. I'm about to go out and put
>> it up on the ramps to take a look. Any suggestions
>> on where to look, where such a deformation might be
>> localized?
>>  
>> Peter Cameron
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been
>> removed]
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating
>> team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
>> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 



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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 22:11:24 -0500
From: "Duke" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help

Chris and others, thanks for the emails and info.  However, I've been 
looking through the schmatic and pics of others relay compartments and to be 
honest, NONE of it makes sense.  Even in the pics of others relay 
compartments I've recieved, they all pretty much look different. However, 
the red wire that's in this pic (that I originally thought was possibly 
power due to it being red but couldn't figure out why it was grounded like 
it is in this pic)
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//ratsnest2.jpg

 is actually the ground for all of the 6 relays I have.  The weird thing is 
it ACTUALLY goes into the DeLorean wiring harness as a red wire! And its a 
ground!!??!  That REALLY blew my mind that a red wire would be a ground and 
to make matters worse, most all of the wires (related to the cooling system 
setup) are brown or brown/orange.  I can't seem to find a brown/slate 
anywhere! (The one I thought was a brown/slate was actually a brown.) Aren't 
most brown wires in the D constant power wires?  I did find the 40 amp 
circuit breaker but it makes no sense whatsoever looking at the wiring going 
to it compared to the wiring diagram.  Here is a pic of it. ( I'm guessing 
this is it due to it being the 40 amp and not the 25.  )
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//40amp.jpg

I've cleaned up the relay compartment and redid a lot of the wiring problems 
that were there along with heat shrinking the new connections.....however, 
the last thing left is the cooling fan setup.  Does everyone think it would 
be easier to just put it back the way it was (I really don't wana do that 
though) or, should I try to ohm out the wires (which would be a pain) and 
put it back stock then hook up the new fan fail fix?  I have the blue relay 
socket wired as the following according to the wiring schmatic of the D.  I 
have the green/blacks on the side terminals, however, there is a 14 guage 
brown/orange stock wire that is in the center of the relay socket (that 
wasn't cut and was stock setup) that goes to the 'fan fail light'.  The back 
slot is hooked up to just a brown wire in this pic.(on the relay it was 
hooked to the BAT terminal)
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//brownwire.jpg

 This is the wire that worries me as in the manual it shows its SUPPOSED to 
be a brown/slate that's coming from the 40 amp circuit breaker and nothing 
is coming from that circuit breaker.  Plus the fact that I'm missing the 
cooling fan relay socket altogether as well.  :(  Any thoughts or suggestions 
would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks again for everyone's time and help on this!

Duke


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Almy" <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2005 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help



>> Duke,
>> Looking over the wiring and pictures, it looks like the mechanic at least
>> did the job correctly (although a bit ugly). Each fan has a relay and 
>> fuse,
>> so the current setup is safe. However, I wouldn't bother trying to get the
>> wiring back to stock. It may not be long enough now and you don't want to
>> have a bunch of short jumpers in there. So if I was you, I would cut the
>> ends off the fan controller and use butt connectors (or better yet solder)
>> and connect it directly to the car's wiring.
>>
>> Let's start with the connector that has the two fused wires. These two
>> wires provide power to the fans. Connect each one to the black/green wires
>> (order is not important). The third remaining smaller wire on the 
>> connector
>> is for the fan fail light. This isn't necessary, but it connects to the
>> purple/brown wire if you can find it.
>>
>> On the other fan controller connector, there are two wires. The green wire
>> is the ground. Just connect this to any ground point or ground wire. The
>> red wire is the 12V trigger wire. This connects to the black/orange wire.
>> But from your diagram, you have a black/brown. Follow this wire and see if
>> it connects to a black/orange. If not, test to confirm it's the trigger
>> wire. You can do this by checking for 12V when the AC compressor has 
>> cycled
>> on. And with the compressor cycled off and a cool engine, there should be 
>> 0
>> volts.
>>
>> Finally, there is the main power wire for the controller. Just run this
>> directly to the battery. The brown/slate wire is no longer necessary.
>> Remove them from where they split off the brown wire. Wrap the brown wire
>> up in electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to prevent it from shorting.
>>
>> I hope this helps. Should you want to restore to the factory had it, you
>> can still skip the circuit breaker connections, because it's bypassed by
>> the fan controller. Page M:18:10 of the workshop manual has the schematic
>> for this system, which may be helpful.
>>
>> Chris
>> VIN 4099
>>






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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 23:41:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Hard start problem

Ok.  This is where owning the Bosch K-Jetronic Fuel
Pressure System and a dwellmeter comes in VERY handy. 
One owner recently said (paraphrased) - "I don't know
why people bend big money on random parts, but won't
spend $25.99 on a dwellmeter, and $59.99 on the Bosch
Fuel Pressure Gauges".  I completely agree on this.  I
used to throw hundred of dollars at random parts, but
wouldn't take the time to buy those two tools.  Heh,
how times have changed now....

What you really need to do is two things.

1.  Get this for $57.99:http://tinyurl.com/9jjep .
Once you have it, hook it up to the fuel system, and
read all the pressures.  If they are accurate, go to
step two.  If not, then buy what you believe you need
based on your symptoms and your faulty fuel pressure
(rest, standing, starting, etc).

2.  Get a dwellmeter and do this:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7u0gn/id6.html .  Credit
to Dave Sontos as that is his website, and I hope he
doesn't mind me directing you to it.  It has pictures
and everything you need to accurately tune the
DeLorean's lambda system.  Once the readings on the
dwellmeter are accurate, then you should be ok.  If
your car displays any irrational symptoms at this
point, a component or system is not working correctly,
which we can go further into once you've done these
things.

I hope I don't sound like a butthead; I'm not trying
to be.  I'm simply telling you what to do to save time
and narrow it down with accuracy.  For that side of
you that's saying "just please tell me what part to
buy" - it could be either the accumulator or the
O-rings that go in the primary pressure regulator.  My
car used to do what yours is doing, and my accumulator
is still under 1 year old.  I had the O-rings in the
PPR changed, and I haven't had a problem since.  $3.50
was all that cost.  

For the cold start fire and die problem, I have an
idea on what it could be.  Simply put, Casey and I
recently did steps 1 and 2 to my car, and it has been
running great ever since.  I got a little jittery - as
I never have really driven my car with the lambda
system hooked up - and thought it was displaying
symptoms that indicated the mixture screw was just a
TTTTAAAAAAAAAAAAAADDDD (less than 1/8 of a turn) on
the lean side.  So Casey told me to go ahead and just
BBAARREEELLLLYYYY turn it.  I did - and boom - your
symptoms started appearing on my car.  So I turned it
back, so far so good.  What that story is saying -
your car could be just a hair too rich - and I mean
just a tiny tiny little bit.  So tiny that the turn on
the mixture screw wouldn't display ANY difference in
your engine's idling.  

Remember, that's just an idea of what it could be. 
This is just my experience talking, and every DeLorean
owner's experience is unique and normally should not
serve as a "yardstick" so to speak.

Jeremiah

--- Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:


>> I'm having a bit of a problem starting my car. 




		
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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 22:41:01 -0000
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Big Thank You to the AZ-D

Bob - 

The plan (as of now) is for the weekend of 10/22.  Unfortunately I 
will not be able to attend that weekend as my oldest is performing 
(doing my Dad thing). Currently we have 3 cars making their way back 
from the DMC GG openhouse in so cal.  Once they return we will post 
the spicifics.

Randal
www.az-d.org


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> I heard that the AZ-D people are coming to LV the weekend before 

SEMA.  

>> Are there any more details.??
>> 
>> Are any members staying to see SEMA?   We would like to get the D 
>> people together while in LV.
>> 
>> 
>> BOB







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