Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2892
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:26 Sep 2005 23:31:36 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: battery voltage loss
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

2. Re: DMC (Texas) Hurricane Rita Update...
From: Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Raleigh, North Carolina British Car Show
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>

4. Re: Steering rack boot installation
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. RE: Best LEDs for center console
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Galvanic corrosion
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

7. Re: DMCNEWS.com forsale ads
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

8. RE: tire rubbing? and relief
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>

9. Re: Steering rack boot installation
From: "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk>

10. Re: Steering rack boot installation
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

11. Re: Re: Steering rack boot installation
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

12. Re: Re: Steering rack boot installation
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

13. DCO - Fall Driving Tour/Bauerle Tech Session
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. The DCS Raffle Car - Stretching its Legs
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Steering lock doesn't unlock
From: "nk1165" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

16. Re: Fan Module Offer
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Steering rack boot installation
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

18. Re: LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

19. Wiring in some extra juice
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

20. Re: Cat removal
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

21. Re: Re: Steering rack boot installation
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

22. Re: Steering rack boot installation
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

23. Re: Hard start problem
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

24. DMC (Texas) Hurricane Aftermath (UPDATED)
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

25. RE: LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 23:06:14 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: battery voltage loss

Re:  battery voltage loss

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> One major problem which will finally occur as the battery loses its
>> charge is that there will not be sufficient voltage to keep the
>> engine running well. What might and possibly WILL happen down the
>> road,is that the catalytic converter Could/would be glowing white

hot

>> and flames coming from beneath the car.(You Don't want that, with a
>> oil based Fiberglass body!!) What had/would happen is the

alternator

>> quits, the battery runs down, the engine is not firing on all
>> cylinders and the unburned fuel is being burned in the catalytic
>> converter! Yikes!!


Yikes again! After writing my post,I had come to a conclusion(after
coming across a old Police Report of a previous Delorean that had a
Engine fire,The Police report Stated:(wording from the Driver)(Female
by the way) When Driving, engine caught Fire!When Driving east on
Route 84 Motor caught fire! Another vehicle notified me of the fire.I
took exit 43 off of the highway,and stopped at red light.fire got
worse By the time the Police and Fire personell arrived,the car was
destroyed.
P.S.Fire was mostly contained in the the engine carpartment sides of
the pontoon area.

Since the car "was" still driveable off the highway,it could not have
been a electrical fire,or from the top of the engine(fuel)It sounds
just like the above problem(being a 81 with the orignal alternator
and 1985)Being that the the major burn was around all 3 sides of the
pontoons,(and the worst part was in the lower area by the catalytic
converter!) Which is surrounded by the exhaust on all sides,if the
catalytic converter was overheating,to the point,that it acutally
caused the exhaust heat to backup,thru the exhaust,causing the
exhaust manifolds,to also glow white,which in turn caused this heat
to be superheated heat to reflect onto the sides of the fiberglass
pontoons,causing the pontoons to melt(liquidate)since this is now a
flammable liquid(liquid resin) which is highly flammable/combustable,
which now combusts!(from the extreme heat) Causing/feeding the
fire.And the more it feeds on the fiberglass the bigger the fire
gets.Again the "hard burn" was around the 3 walls of the pontoon.The
tops had some burn,but you could tell,the fire started low on the
pontoon,and working its way up!When the FD put out the fire.
Sound like a likely cause?
Also this happened on 7/17/85. (clean title after fire)
There seems to be a
car on Gradys site,that seems like the same burn car,(it may not be)
that is being
repaired,on his example repairs page. Correct me if I am wrong,Or if 
it is not the same car it does SHOW EXCELLENT pics,of what I was 
trying to explain above,for reference.Notice on the pics,where the 
major burn was(parts cut off, during repair)notice that right by the 
catalytic converter area is the area that sustained the "burn" on the 
frame.Suggesting high heat(fire) in that area.It goes along with what 
I am trying to explain.. 

Does it sound like a likely case for a D fire.
Also A good reason to get rid of that orignal alternator!

CBL
P.S.Not picking on females--
BUT it must have been a funny sight,since the motor in the Deloreans
are behind you,you cannot "see the flames" or fire or even smell the
fire at speed! It reminded me of the train on BTTF3 all the Black
smoke coming out the stack of the train behind it,(in the case of the
D the engine compartment)Blowing Behind the car,just cruising
along,looking cool,when she sees this (what at first she thinks is a 
psycho)
Screaming at her,at the top of his lungs"lady your car is on fire"!
Then the Moment that she thinks she is gonna cook! That is one time
you pray the door selonoids don't lock you in!
By the way this was her boyfriends car.Again Yikes! I can just hear 
the phone call now,Honey Your "D" burned,while I was driving 
it.Needless to say not that far in the future they broke up.(as later 
he bought my 81 Delorean,and I got his,(burnt car)and we became 
friends) Another story for future reading on my Delorean Sagas,I have 
tons of them.Including videos of most of my restores till my last 
days with ownership of all.

CBL









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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 20:58:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMC (Texas) Hurricane Rita Update...

Glad you guys made out OK. Hope your families and
friends in the region are OK as well.

Joey
#6297



--- James Espey <james_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:


>> DMC (Texas) (and most of the greater Hosuton area)
>> were largely unscathed by Hurriance Rita, and we
>> experienced no damage whatsoever to our building or
>> our inventory of new, reproduction and new old stock
>> (NOS) DeLorean parts. At the time the facility is
>> running on backup power for essential services
>> (alarm and other security).
>> 
>> MOnday, September 26th, we will be open at 8:00am
>> and expect it to be more or less "business as
>> usual". Online orders have been unaffected and
>> phones will be operating as well tomorrow and we'll
>> be taking and shipping orders and working on and
>> delivering cars.
>> 
>> Thanks to all who expressed concern for the
>> well-being of our staff, we look forward to serving
>> your DeLorean parts needs!
>> 
>> Stephen, James, Warren and the rest!
>> 
>> DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
>> 15023 Eddie Drive
>> Humble, Texas 77396 USA
>> 
>> 281/441-2537 phone
>> 800/872-3621 toll-free
>> http://www.delorean.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating
>> team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
>> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 




		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 10:43:01 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Raleigh, North Carolina British Car Show

FYI - there is a British car show on October 8th that is being sponsored by
the local MG club. It will be in Raleigh, at the Prime Outlets shop (across
I-40 from the airport). Assuming that I can get my new clutch installed in
time I will have my DeLorean there and would love to see some other owners
and enthusiasts attend.

details are available at http://ncmgcarclub.org/show.html

Hope to see you there!!!!!!

Michael
VIN 3472


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 04:38:47 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Steering rack boot installation

I am NO expert on alignment issues with cars, and this is a question
that has bugged me.

If you take the tie rods off for example to install new steering rack
boots, do you need to have the car aligned again?

I need to change my boots as well on 16851, and the car just had a 4
wheel alignment 6 months ago. Straight as an arrow when driving. I'd
hate to mess that up.

Thanks,

Joe O'Brien








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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 19:35:01 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Best LEDs for center console

Shameless plug here.....
But I have done a lot of research by buying different brands, colors and 
light diffusers.
So far the ones that I sell on http://www.dfwdmc.com seem to be the best.
They are bright white and emit the light from the sides using a cone filter.
The plastic within the center console faceplate in tinted in an aqua color, 
the original
lamps used have a yellow color and make the face seem sort of green, but 
with the white
bulbs it looks more blue - which I feel looks a little better and clean.
The main advantage here is that it is taking some of the strain off of the 
headlamp switch and relay,
as well as removing ALL heat from the face and inside the console.
The intense heat from the original lamps will burn your fingers if you touch 
it, these 7 lamps
heat up the inside of the console and heat up the radio too.
Using the LED's illuminates these issues and you will also never have to 
change them again.

I will say, they are not bright enough for you to notice them on in the 
direct sunlight
like the originals, but they look spectacular at night and that is what 
matters.

So rather you buy them from me or not, you want bright white, cone diffused 
side emitting lights.
I sell them packaged and ready to go with free shipping for $19.99
I also have lights for the dash cluster, the doors, the trunk and engine 
bay.
The festoon replacement bulbs for the trunk and engine bay are great if you 
show your car.
These are super bright and use almost zero power.
The most important purchase you can make is the door LED's.
You can leave your doors, trunk and engine bay open for WEEKS and never see 
much
of a drop in your battery - no kidding.

Thanks,
- Videobob

http://dfwdmc.com/store_parts.html


>>From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Best LEDs for center console
>>Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 19:28:20 +0000
>>
>>
>>I have heard that some brands are better than others. Also, some have said
>>that they are not made by anyone.
>>Charles
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 03:03:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Galvanic corrosion

To reduce electrical corrosion, aka electralysis, all you have to do
is have fresh anti-freeze. Your anti-freeze should have it's PH
checked every year and you should drain, flush, and replace it every 4
years. When the anit-freeze gets too acidic you have problems,
especially with the aluminum parts, they go first. The other thing to
do is to not charge the battery in the car and remove it when storing
the car. Some battery chargers (the cheaper ones) can impress an AC
voltage onto the car's electrical system. This is "A VERY BAD THING".
It can melt the parts and damage semiconductors. I personnaly do not
like the trickle or "float" chargers that are always left hooked up.
ANY AC leakage, even a tiny bit, over a long period of time can do a
lot of damage. BTW the idea of connecting everything together won't
help. Dissimilar metals will still create an electromotive force and
the lower ones will disolve onto the upper ones.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:

>>  
>>  
>> That might work but, I don't think anyone is going to take the time

and  

>> effort needed to run a ground wire to each and every section 

aluminum coolant 

>> pipe, the radiator, heater core T and their stainless  steel coolant b







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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 22:46:01 -0500
From: Wayne Wagner <dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: DMCNEWS.com forsale ads

I have a save for this... only things posted after 08/02/2005 would need 
to be reposted.  Backed up files uploaded and should be viewable now.

Regards,
Wayne / VIN2447
DML Jr. Archivist



Dave Swingle wrote:


>>I hit an irreversible wrong button tonight and deleted all the "Parts 
>>and Memoribilia  "for sale" ads on dmcnews.com at 
>>http://www.dmcnews.com/buynsell.html
>>
>>(This is the parts for sale page, NOT the car for sale page). If you 
>>posted something there and still want to advertise it, please repost 
>>it.  The "parts wanted" page was not affected. 
>>
>>Dave Swingle (7 hours of driving in the rain does that to me)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  
>>







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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 11:33:41 -0400
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>
Subject: RE: tire rubbing? and relief

good news on this one. when it got it up on the ramps i saw that the fender stay (partno 37 in the 'body/fender' portion of the parts manual) had come loose from the fiberglass body pan. I put it back more securely than it had originally been (reinforced the fiberglass with some epoxy first) and now all is well. The position shift in the fender due to the stay being loose was enough to create the interference with the tire at one specific wheel position, just enough to rub and be disconcertingly noisy, but not enough to do any damage. To have an easy fix was a big relief.



	-----Original Message----- 

	From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com on behalf of Andrew Prentis 

	Sent: Mon 9/26/2005 8:16 AM 

	To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 

	Cc: 

	Subject: Re: [DML] tire rubbing?

	

	



	Peter,

	Check your Lower control arms!

	I had a similar thing happen to me last year and what

	it was was a 2 inch crack in the lower control arm

	which caused the tyre to rub on the fender.The control

	arms are of a pretty woeful construction and I found

	that the other arm was badly rusted and about too

	break aswell.

	But don't drive the car until you've located the

	problem.Something is definately amiss

	

	Andrew

	VIN 2883

	Sydney

	

	--- "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov> wrote:

	

	> I'm having a problem that concerns me quite a bit.

	> Every now and then for the past few months when

	> turning to the left while going over a bump I would

	> hear a brief scraping sound. Last night while

	> parking I had to muscle the steering wheel quite a

	> bit while not moving to fit into a tight spot. When

	> I left that spot a few hours later I noticed that

	> the scraping sound was much more prominent,

	> happening only at one particular orientation of the

	> front wheels. Got out and took a look, and I see

	> that my right front tire is rubbing the front of the

	> fender well, when wheel is turned to that

	> orientation! Doesn't rub during normal

	> straight-ahead driving, but most noticeable when

	> turning slightly left. This can't be good.

	> Thinking of the recent thread on this list on

	> tie-rod ends and the statement there that the

	> steering  gear is under the greatest stress during

	> the specific maneuver I did while parking, it makes

	> me think something deformed. Car handled fine for

	> the 60 mile ride back home (tho I was a bit

	> nervous), no change from the usual, which I have

	> always been very happy with. But can't reconcile

	> this with the fact that the front of my tire now

	> scrapes the wheel well. I'm about to go out and put

	> it up on the ramps to take a look. Any suggestions

	> on where to look, where such a deformation might be

	> localized?

	> 

	> Peter Cameron

	> 

	>

	>

	> [Non-text portions of this message have been

	> removed]

	>

	>

	>

	>

	>

	> To address comments privately to the moderating

	> team, please address:

	> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

	>

	> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for

	> sale see www.dmcnews.com

	>

	> To search the archives or view files, log in at

	> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

	> Yahoo! Groups Links

	>

	>

	>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

	>

	> 

	>

	>

	>

	

	

	__________________________________________________

	Do You Yahoo!?

	Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

	http://mail.yahoo.com

	

	

	

	

	To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

	moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

	

	For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

	

	To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

	Yahoo! Groups Links

	

	

	

	

	

	

	





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 15:31:04 -0000
From: "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Steering rack boot installation

I did have the car alligned after doing mine. However I was also 
replacing the track rod (tie rod) ends on the car. However if you very 
carefully marked the position you may be able to get them back exact. 
However over in the UK getting the tracking done is not that 
expensive, so its probably best to get it re-done, it will save on 
tyre ware at the very least!

Chris
vin#4585

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> I am NO expert on alignment issues with cars, and this is a question
>> that has bugged me.
>> 
>> If you take the tie rods off for example to install new steering rack
>> boots, do you need to have the car aligned again?
>> 
>> I need to change my boots as well on 16851, and the car just had a 4
>> wheel alignment 6 months ago. Straight as an arrow when driving. I'd
>> hate to mess that up.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Joe O'Brien







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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 16:06:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Steering rack boot installation

Changing the boots (dust seals) on the tie rod ends won't affect the
alignmnet as long as you do not turn the tie rod end on the shaft to
the steering rack. If you unscrew the tire rod ends, say to replace
the boots on the steering rack, you must put them back EXACTLY or you
will change the Toe. If the tie rods are worn/loose, and you replace
them you should have an alignment done. To remove the tie rod end mark
with a paint spot and count the turns. Put it back exactly as it was
and you should be OK.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> I am NO expert on alignment issues with cars, and this is a question
>> that has bugged me.
>> 
>> If you take the tie rods off for example to install new steering rack
>> boots, do you need to have the car aligned again?
>> 
>> I need to change my boots as well on 16851, and the car just had a 4
>> wheel alignment 6 months ago. Straight as an arrow when driving. I'd
>> hate to mess that up.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Joe O'Brien







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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 10:06:27 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Steering rack boot installation

Makes great sense. Thanks Chris & Dani.

One last question: Is 90W gear oil the definitive solution?

-Ryan

On 9/25/05, Chris Williams <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:

>> Ryan,
>>
>> About two weeks ago I did this with the rack still in the car. To
>> coin an english phrase it was a 'piece of cake'
>> This is a fairly easy job with the rack in the car, true it probably
>> is easier with it out but certinally is not difficult with it left
>> in situ. My only tip is to put the rack on full lock on the side you
>> are working on, ie; make the rack the shortest lenth on the side you
>> are working on. when you have the new boot on, Tie up the larger end
>> and then squirt some gear oil in the small end of the boot. Then tie
>> that end to. Hope this makes sence.
>>
>> Chris
>> vin#4584
>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
>>> > Dani,
>>> >
>>> > On 9/23/05, stainlessilusion <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote:
>>
>>>> > > Sliding the new ones on huh? If you have the rack out of the car
>
>> it's
>
>>>> > > that simple, but if you have it in-you will have one hell of a
>
>> time
>
>>>> > > since the boots openings are smaller then the rack housing.
>>
>>> >
>>> > I must be missing something.
>>> >
>>> > http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/images%5C520.gif
>>> >
>>> > I don't see anything in the way of these boots, except perhaps the
>
>> tie
>
>>> > rod ends (which I'm also replacing). Last time I had the car up in
>
>> the
>
>>> > air and the wheels off, I also didn't see anything in the way.
>
>> Looked
>
>>> > like a simple matter and others have told me you just slide them
>
>> on.
>
>>> > What am I missing?
>>> >
>>
>>>> > > The rack
>>>> > > takes gear old (what kind? 90W I think-I can't remember exactly,
>
>> and I
>
>>>> > > used synthetic), and that's a chore to fill in the car also. So,
>
>> if
>
>>>> > > you want to do it quick-take the rack out and install/fill
>
>> everything.
>
>>>> > > Otherwise you'll spend more time trying to fill and get the
>
>> boots on
>
>>>> > > then you would have taking the rack out. -----Dani B. #5003
>>
>>> >
>>> > So, once I get the boots on, I need to fill them with gear oil?
>
>> How do
>
>>> > I do that? There obviously aren't any openings, and they're just
>
>> held
>
>>> > on with clamps.
>>> >
>>> > -Ryan
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>



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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 15:50:51 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Steering rack boot installation

The toe portion of alignment is adjusted by moving the tie rod ends on
the threads of the steering rack ends.  If you put the tie rod ends back on 
in exactly the same place they came from, you will not change your
alignment.  So - count the number of turns it takes to remove the rod
end from each side and put the rod end back on with exactly the same
number of turns.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 



>> I am NO expert on alignment issues with cars, and this is a question 
>> that has bugged me. 
>> 
>> If you take the tie rods off for example to install new steering rack 
>> boots, do you need to have the car aligned again? 
>> 
>> I need to change my boots as well on 16851, and the car just had a 4 
>> wheel alignment 6 months ago. Straight as an arrow when driving. I'd 
>> hate to mess that up. 
>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> 
>> Joe O'Brien 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 10:06:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DCO - Fall Driving Tour/Bauerle Tech Session

The last scheduled DCO event of the year is upon us.  Any owner/enthusiast is
welcome to attend.

http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/events.htm

Sat October 8, 2005
 	  
Fall Driving Tour/Bauerle Tech Session
Delaware, Ohio
(Rain date Saturday October 22nd)

Bauerle Automotive
223 Curtis St.
Delaware, Ohio 43015
740-595-3348

All times are approx.
- 8:00-12:00 arrive, greet, work on cars (please limit jobs to non-major repairs)
Let Dave know what jobs you want to do so he can make sure he has any materials
needed.
- "Name that part" contest. Winners will receive gift certificates toward the
Chicago Car show ($50, $35, $25)
- 12:00 Lunch provided
- 1:00 Craft time (open to all). Continue car work as wanted.
- 2:30 finnish projects, award prizes
- 3:00 Fall driving tour
- 5:00 the tour will end at a local restraurant (TBA) for supper
- After supper we will go our separate ways-those who wish to may head back to
the shop to just sit & talk

Please RSVP to the number above by October 1st.
The first twenty four to respond will receive a free T-shirt.
If weather looks bad we will make a decision by Wednesday the 5th about using our
rain date. 

-----------

Shannon Y
16506

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 10:26:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: The DCS Raffle Car - Stretching its Legs

This past weekend I caravanned to the Evansville (IN) River City Auto Fest with
Ken & Chris Koncelik who were driving the raffle car. The night before our
departure Ken had separated the body to install new AC lines. All back together
the car had no problems cruising at 75mph plus for about 4 hours one way & back
(with most of the return trip in the rain). With just a some cosmetic details
needing attention this car will be a great ride for the winner at DSC 06 Chicago.
And with those DMCH seat covers a comfy ride as well!

Shannon Y
16506


		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 17:48:22 -0000
From: "nk1165" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: Steering lock doesn't unlock

Went to use the D this morning and the key would not turn the cylinder 
to start the car.  This has happened before but it usually works after 
a few tries.  Not this time.  Same problem with other set of keys.  I 
did not have any time to look further into the problem.

Any suggestions?

Nick






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 11:23:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fan Module Offer

Does it restore the proper operation of the "fan fail"
light?

Does is delay the first fan too, so it does not come
on with the AC compressor?

Micro-controller?  Wow, that is overkill... But if it
works, I'd be interested.  I did not see a price.


--- Shain Brannan <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net> wrote:


>> Hello Group,
>> 
>> Over the past few months i have redesigned my
>> orgional fan control 
>> module i have made over 2 years ago.  Because of the
>> lack of 
>> fanzillia units available i have produced a small
>> quantity and would 
>> like to offer them to the delorean comunity.  My fan
>> module offers a 
>> similar sequencer technology that offers the same
>> staging of the fan 
>> modules as the orgional fanzilla.  Using high
>> quality production 
>> circuit boards, relays, fire proof abs plastic
>> casing,  i believe i 
>> have a product that is of the same quality as other
>> modules on the 
>> market.  Each unit is painstakenly hand assembled to
>> ensure 
>> quality.  The unit runs on a small microcontroller
>> and is most 
>> likely the most advance component your delorean will
>> own.  Unit 
>> offers a simple 10 minute installation, with no
>> cutting, soldering 
>> or any other complex installation,  just plug the
>> unit it and forget 
>> about it.  Multistep staging ensures smooth engine
>> operation in even 
>> the hottest condition.  If you are intersted in one
>> of my units i 
>> have a small quantity avaible.  Please email me at
>> dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net 
>> for more information.  Sorry for advertising guys, 
>> but i wanted to 
>> share my item with the rest of the community.
>> 
>> -Shain Brannan
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating
>> team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
>> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 




		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 18:10:59 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Steering rack boot installation

You either paint the threads or count how many threads are left. This
will ensure it goes back to how it was before. -----Dani B. #5003



>> I am NO expert on alignment issues with cars, and this is a question
>> that has bugged me.
>> 
>> If you take the tie rods off for example to install new steering rack
>> boots, do you need to have the car aligned again?
>> 
>> I need to change my boots as well on 16851, and the car just had a 4
>> wheel alignment 6 months ago. Straight as an arrow when driving. I'd
>> hate to mess that up.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Joe O'Brien







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 10:42:47 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help

Duke,
You are getting a little bit too worked up over the circuit breaker. The 
circuit breaker is completely bypassed in the different fan control modules 
(including the one you bought). Your previous mechanic completely removed 
it as it wasn't necessary in the setup he used as well. I wouldn't bother 
trying to add it since it won't get used and wasn't the best design anyway. 
As for the breaker you found, it's for the heater/AC blower motor.

If you wish to reuse the blue socket, you are pretty much finished with 
that. As long as it has the two black/green wires, that's all you need. The 
brown wire that would go to the breaker is not used with this fan 
controller. Now all you need to worry about are the two wires on the other 
controller connector. The green one on the module is ground, so that's easy 
enough. The red is the trigger wire. That as mentioned goes to the wire 
that was previously on the IGN terminal of those relays the mechanic added. 
If you like, you can add a relay socket for these two connections or just 
cut off the connector and wire them directly.

That's all there is to this! The wires that used to go to the BATT 
terminals on those relays are no longer required. Just remove them from 
where they split off the brown power wire. Now wrap it up in tubing or tape 
to prevent shorting. Since the fan controller module gets power directly 
from the battery and has it's own fuses, you don't need to worry about the 
different brown wires.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 10:11 PM 9/25/2005 -0500, you wrote:

>>Chris and others, thanks for the emails and info.  However, I've been
>>looking through the schmatic and pics of others relay compartments and to be
>>honest, NONE of it makes sense.  Even in the pics of others relay
>>compartments I've recieved, they all pretty much look different. However,
>>the red wire that's in this pic (that I originally thought was possibly
>>power due to it being red but couldn't figure out why it was grounded like
>>it is in this pic)
>>http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//ratsnest2.jpg






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 14:23:43 -0500
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Wiring in some extra juice

I'm adding some electronics to my rear wall, beneath my window
(powered subs, etc... about 90 Watts...  probably less than 10 Amps). 
I was planning to run some 8 AWG wire (should be overkill / future
proof) from my battery's top post to this area, but I just found out
the entire battery area is enclosed in plastic and fiberglass... 
pretty well sealed.  I also noticed a huge cluster of brown wires
(constant 12V, I suspect) in the passenger side alcove behind that
wall.

What have other owners done to add some juice for any back wall
electronics?  Drill through the battery compartment, attach to the
brown wire cluster, or other?  I'd appreciate any recommendations.

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 15:37:29 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Cat removal

Martin,

As you well know, there are other differences in the USA/EUR DeLoreans 
than just the cat.  I'm not versed in these differences, but I know that 
it's seldom a simple matter to alter a single variable within a complex 
system.

Removing the cat on US vehicles may or may not increase performance, and I 
would like to see a dyno test that shows the difference.  Removing the cat 
will almost certainly increase emissions.  If I could get another 10 or 20 
HP by cutting out the cat, I'd be under there with a hacksaw right now. 
But in truth I think it's 1 or 2 HP, which hardly seems worth the effort 
(let alone the extra emissions).

Don't worry about the higher emissions in your Euro-spec cars...you'd need 
to leave every vehicle in Europe idling 24/7 before you'd even come close 
to catching up with the USA.  We're #1, woo hoo!

Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, Texas



dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com wrote on 09/23/2005 07:39:12 PM:


>> Hi Stephen
>> 
>> You may like to actually try driving a DeLorean that has been de catted 
>> - and by this I do not mean simply gutting the contents of the existing 
>> cat*. The exhaust note changes noticably and the engine is without 
>> question perkier. I have no dyno sheets to prove this, but if you can 
>> find one owner who has a cat bypass pipe installed and did not 
>> experience greater performance, I'll eat a cat for tomorrow's breakfast 
>>  :-)  Meoww
>> 
>> Remember the DeLorean engine is unusual for a PRV in that it is catted - 


>> for 1981 this was very rare. ALL the european versions run considerably 
>> more horsepower and this all comes down to the fuel system not requiring 


>> a lambda system to keep a perfect  mixture. Running rich can be good for 


>> performance if tuned properly. Our euro converted engines are 
>> considerably more powerful, still running a stock exhaust, cat bypass 
>> and european B28E ignition and injection systems. One customer 
>> discovered his clutch was worn out immediately after collecting his car 
>> after the upgrade.
>> 
>> * I have one customer to whose car I fitted a cat bypass pipe. His old 
>> cat had a perfect hole strait down the middle. Despite this, he still 
>> reported improved pickup and crucially a marked increase in fuel 

economy.

>> 
>> By suggesting the DeLorean's stock exhaust is "tuned" is rather amusing 
>> really  :-) 
>> 
>> FYI catalytic converters were not mandatory in the UK till 1994 so we 
>> can legally remove them over here, and sell the pipe to do so. Are we 
>> being environmentally unfriendly? I suppose so, but we are burning less 
>> fuel doing it, so you could argue we're actually cutting down on CO2 
>> emissions!
>> 
>> Martin
>> 
>> Stephen Schlachter wrote:
>> 
>
>>> >See my previous posts about removing the cat.  Doing so increases 
>>> >emissions, and adds no performance (and may even hinder it).  Just 
>>> >because you can't see the extra pollution doesn't mean it isn't there, 
>>> >and backpressure is part of the overall exhaust tuning.
>>> >
>>> >The only reason to remove the cat is due to malfunction...and then, 
>>> >only to replace it.  If someone has a dyno test that demonstrates a 
>>> >measureable improvement in performance by increasing pollutants, I'd 
>>> >like to see it.
>>> > 
>>> >
>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 

www.dmcnews.com

>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.
>> com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 13:56:45 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Steering rack boot installation

Joe,

It is my understanding that, so long as you put the tie rod end back
on in exactly the same place (same number of threads in), you do not
have to get another alignment. Measure with a caliper to be exact.

If I'm wrong, somebody correct me, because this was my plan.

-Ryan

On 9/25/05, Joe OBrien <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

>> I am NO expert on alignment issues with cars, and this is a question
>> that has bugged me.
>>
>> If you take the tie rods off for example to install new steering rack
>> boots, do you need to have the car aligned again?
>>
>> I need to change my boots as well on 16851, and the car just had a 4
>> wheel alignment 6 months ago. Straight as an arrow when driving. I'd
>> hate to mess that up.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Joe O'Brien
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:11:12 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Steering rack boot installation

Anytime you do work on the steering or anything that messes with the 
geometry of the wheels, requires a trip to the alignment shop, this is 
for any car or truck.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> I am NO expert on alignment issues with cars, and this is a question
>> that has bugged me.
>> 
>> If you take the tie rods off for example to install new steering rack
>> boots, do you need to have the car aligned again?
>> 
>> I need to change my boots as well on 16851, and the car just had a 4
>> wheel alignment 6 months ago. Straight as an arrow when driving. I'd
>> hate to mess that up.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Joe O'Brien







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 17:22:56 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hard start problem

This sounds a lot like my problem: hard to start when sitting in the hot sun
at first, but slowly got a little bit worse so that overnight it wouldn't
start either.
My car was running too lean. My turning the itty bitty allen in front of the
fuel distributer and under the little rubber plug (counter clockwise I
think) to enrichen it was much better and I haven't had problems other than
hurricanes since. I don't think those two are related.  :) 

I've been running the platinum plugs. It's been about 10-15k miles so they
could be done for, and that may be contributing to this issue I was having.
I don't think the platinum or the quad prong plugs are worth the money.
-Kevin
(back home with a safe #4687 who wants to go for a drive but the party of
the first part is tired of driving and tomorrow will be soon enough)

On 9/25/05, Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:

>>
>> I'm having a bit of a problem starting my car. When the engine is warm, it
>> has the typical hot start problem. After about 20-30 seconds of cranking,
>> it finally turns over. It may stumble for another few seconds before it
>> gets up to idle speed. But afterwards, the engine runs perfectly. As for
>> the fuel system, the accumulator was replaced about 3 years ago. The fuel
>> pump/check valve, fuel filter, and O rings in the primary pressure
>> regulator were replaced within the last year.
>>
>> Now here is where it really gets interesting. If the car has been sitting
>> for more then a day or two, it has problems cold starting. It will usually
>> fire right up for a second then die. This tells me the ignition system is
>> working and so is the cold start valve (directly tested as well). Once the
>> engine starts, it's just like the hot start were it stumbles for a few
>> seconds before reaching idle.
>>
>> I'm not too sure what the problem is here. The technical manual says for
>> hot/cold start problems only, it's the air sensor rest position. However
>> it
>> sits flush with the funnel, so I don't think that's the issue. Is it
>> possible to have a bad warm up regulator and dirty injectors without
>> causing problems once the engine is running? Or do I need to just cave in
>> and get a fuel pressure gauge to test the different pressures?
>>
>> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
>> Chris
>> VIN 4099
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
>> www.dmcnews.com <http://www.dmcnews.com>
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>



--
-Kevin


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 22:29:58 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: DMC (Texas) Hurricane Aftermath (UPDATED)

As callers today may have learned, DMC (Texas) has no primary power.
We're working off a generator to power the phones and computers, so
orders are being processed and shipped (over 50 orders today)!

The flip side is we have no air conditioning, and the temp today was
nearly 100 with about 50% humidity - hot and sweaty...with more of the
same forecast for the rest of the week. We're promised that power will
be back on not later than Friday.    :-( 

Again, phones are being answered, messages are being returned, and
orders are being processed and shipped! I'll post further updates as
necessary.

Regards,

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com  <---- Always open!
281/441-2537
800/USA-DMC1






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 19:11:14 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help

Duke,

Sorry to say this but your relay compartment is a mess! I'd suggest wiring
it back to stock and then install the fan relay or controller of your
choice. Fanzilla is still the best, and certainly most proven, fan fix you
can buy but won't be available again for a few more months (It's a long
story). We have been testing Shain's controller for some time now and have
just agreed to help him distribute his design at least until Fanzilla
becomes available again.
Before you worry about what controller to use however rip out that funky
relay setup with the red ground wire as none of it is stock. I can provide a
simple schematic to put it back to stock or could send you pre-wired relay
holders if you would send a picture thatís shows the full extent of the
"modifications". 

Rob Grady

P.J.Grady Inc. 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Duke
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2005 11:11 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help

Chris and others, thanks for the emails and info.  However, I've been 
looking through the schmatic and pics of others relay compartments and to be

honest, NONE of it makes sense.  Even in the pics of others relay 
compartments I've recieved, they all pretty much look different. However, 
the red wire that's in this pic (that I originally thought was possibly 
power due to it being red but couldn't figure out why it was grounded like 
it is in this pic)
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//ratsnest2.jpg

 is actually the ground for all of the 6 relays I have.  The weird thing is 
it ACTUALLY goes into the DeLorean wiring harness as a red wire! And its a 
ground!!??!  That REALLY blew my mind that a red wire would be a ground and 
to make matters worse, most all of the wires (related to the cooling system 
setup) are brown or brown/orange.  I can't seem to find a brown/slate 
anywhere! (The one I thought was a brown/slate was actually a brown.) Aren't

most brown wires in the D constant power wires?  I did find the 40 amp 
circuit breaker but it makes no sense whatsoever looking at the wiring going

to it compared to the wiring diagram.  Here is a pic of it. ( I'm guessing 
this is it due to it being the 40 amp and not the 25.  )
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//40amp.jpg

I've cleaned up the relay compartment and redid a lot of the wiring problems

that were there along with heat shrinking the new connections.....however, 
the last thing left is the cooling fan setup.  Does everyone think it would 
be easier to just put it back the way it was (I really don't wana do that 
though) or, should I try to ohm out the wires (which would be a pain) and 
put it back stock then hook up the new fan fail fix?  I have the blue relay 
socket wired as the following according to the wiring schmatic of the D.  I 
have the green/blacks on the side terminals, however, there is a 14 guage 
brown/orange stock wire that is in the center of the relay socket (that 
wasn't cut and was stock setup) that goes to the 'fan fail light'.  The back

slot is hooked up to just a brown wire in this pic.(on the relay it was 
hooked to the BAT terminal)
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//brownwire.jpg

 This is the wire that worries me as in the manual it shows its SUPPOSED to 
be a brown/slate that's coming from the 40 amp circuit breaker and nothing 
is coming from that circuit breaker.  Plus the fact that I'm missing the 
cooling fan relay socket altogether as well.  :(  Any thoughts or suggestions 
would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks again for everyone's time and help on this!

Duke


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Almy" <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2005 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help



>> Duke,
>> Looking over the wiring and pictures, it looks like the mechanic at least
>> did the job correctly (although a bit ugly). Each fan has a relay and 
>> fuse,
>> so the current setup is safe. However, I wouldn't bother trying to get the
>> wiring back to stock. It may not be long enough now and you don't want to
>> have a bunch of short jumpers in there. So if I was you, I would cut the
>> ends off the fan controller and use butt connectors (or better yet solder)
>> and connect it directly to the car's wiring.
>>
>> Let's start with the connector that has the two fused wires. These two
>> wires provide power to the fans. Connect each one to the black/green wires
>> (order is not important). The third remaining smaller wire on the 
>> connector
>> is for the fan fail light. This isn't necessary, but it connects to the
>> purple/brown wire if you can find it.
>>
>> On the other fan controller connector, there are two wires. The green wire
>> is the ground. Just connect this to any ground point or ground wire. The
>> red wire is the 12V trigger wire. This connects to the black/orange wire.
>> But from your diagram, you have a black/brown. Follow this wire and see if
>> it connects to a black/orange. If not, test to confirm it's the trigger
>> wire. You can do this by checking for 12V when the AC compressor has 
>> cycled
>> on. And with the compressor cycled off and a cool engine, there should be 
>> 0
>> volts.
>>
>> Finally, there is the main power wire for the controller. Just run this
>> directly to the battery. The brown/slate wire is no longer necessary.
>> Remove them from where they split off the brown wire. Wrap the brown wire
>> up in electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to prevent it from shorting.
>>
>> I hope this helps. Should you want to restore to the factory had it, you
>> can still skip the circuit breaker connections, because it's bypassed by
>> the fan controller. Page M:18:10 of the workshop manual has the schematic
>> for this system, which may be helpful.
>>
>> Chris
>> VIN 4099
>>






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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