Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2897
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:28 Sep 2005 15:12:38 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. New clutch disk.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. RE: Steering lock doesn't unlock & Jiggling didn't help
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

3. Steering bushing replacement
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

4. DCS and Christopher LLOYD
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

5. What is this?
From: Chuck McKnight <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: LED Center Console Burnout
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamerge.com>

7. Re: What is this?
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. RE: Weird Question Alert.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Re: Steering bushing replacement
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

10. Re: Brake saga........
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

11. Need some Air
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Brake saga........
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

13. Re: ebay buyer protection
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

14. RE: Cheap Time Machine
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Cooling Fan Fail Light Mod
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamerge.com>

16. Re: What is this?
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Brake saga........
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

18. Re: Steering bushing replacement
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

19. Re: What is this?
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

20. AW: LED Center Console Burnout
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

21. Re: Fanzilla Clones
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamerge.com>

22. AW: Brake saga........
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

23. AW: Re: Cooling fans
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

24. Re: Steering bushing replacement
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

25. VOLVO motor swap in D
From: "realrealgone" <realrealgone_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 02:12:47 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: New clutch disk.

Group, 
You may want to take a look at the web page on clutches
before you buy your next clutch kit or parts of it.
I have added new disk with more coverage facing material 
and the new Kevlar disk for longer ware. 
They are in stock.
John Hervey 
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/clutch-transmission.html






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 21:18:04 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: RE: Steering lock doesn't unlock & Jiggling didn't help

I jiggled it quite a bit and it did not unlock.  This evening I jiggled it
and it unlocked after a while.  Graphite makes no difference.

I suspect I need to open it up and see what is going on.  Any suggestions
will be appreciated

Nick





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 21:21:44 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: Steering bushing replacement

I took a quick look at the steering wheel from under the dash and it begs
this question:
- Why do you replace the busing by removing the steering wheel instead of
dropping the steering wheel assembly?

At first glance it appears that the steering wheel assembly can be removed
as a whole from underneath by disconnecting the wires and loosening the
steering wheel adjustment bolt.

Thoughts?

Nick





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 22:26:20 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DCS and Christopher LLOYD

Hey I got  you to look 
 
I am trying to get one more star to the show and I have been asked a number  
of times if Christopher Lloyd is avail. More times than I can remember    :-) 
 
I asked Bob Gale again if he had heard anything and well below is as much  as 
I know
here is part of his response to my questions.
 
I am trying too hard on this one my time machine has bad time  circuits or I 
would go to the future and find out for you all if he is  coming.
 
 
 
<<<Ken, I saw Christopher  Lloyd on Sunday.  Itís too soon for him to commit, 
but heís definitely  interested.  Iíll stay on top of it and keep you 
posted! 
--Bob>>>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 19:34:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chuck McKnight <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: What is this?

I found this on the net a little while ago, and I am not sure what it is.
 
http://www.monako.co.jp/products/2003/details_bt/index.html
 
Is it an animated series?  A video game maybe?  Whatever it is, it has an awesome computer animated De Lorean.  Can anyone read Japanese?  (or whatever language that is)
 
 
Chuck McKnight

		
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
 Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 02:33:32 -0000
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamerge.com>
Subject: Re: LED Center Console Burnout

I had the same problem in 3765. I bought a kit of bulbs from a 
frequent poster here and all the bulbs in the center console shot 
within minutes of being placed into operation. This was not a 
problem with the bulbs, however, because I then purchased LEDs from 
Superbright leds.com, and they also began to fail in a VERY short 
time. I concluded that my aftermarket alternator is a little too 
powerful for these LEDs. My solution was to replace the relay that 
controls the AC console lamps with a jumper as detailed here in the 
files section. My twist was to replace the jumper with a 150 Ohm, 
1/2 watt resistor. I gutted a relay case and put the resistor inside 
to maintain the look of a relay. This circuit lowers the voltage to 
about 10 Volts. No problem since.  

This is really strange, as I have LEDS in EVERYTHING except the 
headlights, but the center console lamps are the only ones that have 
given me any problem. It must be the tolerance of these particular 
lamps, which are unique to the center console sockets.

Marty Galbreath
#3765









--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> I have had LEDs in my center console for about two years. I am 

having to replace them one or two bulbs at a time due to burnout. It 
is always the four top bulbs, never the three on the bottom. I used 
red bulbs on the bottom for the fan fail, door lock and rear window 
defrost. I used super white in the other four slots.  Has any one 
else had a problem with LED burnout?  I changed out my doors to LEDs 
at the same time and have had no problems there.  Thanks Rod 10921

>>  
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
>> http://mail.yahoo.com 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 03:29:12 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What is this?

It looks like a game. Select the second row of letters from the left 
and notice the snapshots. There appears to be game like features on the 
pictures.

Josh

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chuck McKnight <gullwingdoors_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> I found this on the net a little while ago, and I am not sure what it 

is.

>>  
>> http://www.monako.co.jp/products/2003/details_bt/index.html
>>  
>> Is it an animated series?  A video game maybe?  Whatever it is, it 

has an awesome computer animated De Lorean.  Can anyone read Japanese?  
(or whatever language that is)

>>  
>>  
>> Chuck McKnight
>> 
>> 		
>> ---------------------------------
>> Yahoo! for Good
>>  Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 22:25:45 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Weird Question Alert.

Actually 12 volt is the term, but the voltage on the electrical circuit of
the car since it's not regulated is what ever the alternator is putting out.
14.3 to 14.8 cold and after the alternator heats up is may drop to 13.3 to
13.8. That's why installing a new up to date alternator with the current
behind the voltage will make the car run better and supply the power needed 
to run the components as they were meant to be.
John Hervey
 www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Ryan Wright
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 12:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Weird Question Alert.

Yes, it's all 12V.

-Ryan

On 9/27/05, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

>>
>> Hey.
>>
>> Is the entire lighting portion of our cars 12 volts
>> (binnacle, doors, license plate, headlight/hazzard
>> switches, interior dome, console, etc)?  I know -
>> weird question - but I found a suitable replacement
>> LED for the headlight/hazzard switches as well as the
>> cigarette lighter, and I just want to know which
>> voltage I should order.  I made this mistake once and
>> ordered 6V LEDs - not fun...
>>
>> Jeremiah
>>
>>
>>
>> __________________________________
>> Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
>> http://mail.yahoo.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

www.dmcnews.com

>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 03:10:18 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Steering bushing replacement

You are correct - there is no reason to remove the wheel.

--remove kneepads
--remove A/C ducting
--disconnect steering column outside under the trunk panels
--unplug three cables at the column
--remove two large nuts and bolts (and sometimes a couple of small 
ones) holding the column in
--pull it out. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_b...> wrote:

>> I took a quick look at the steering wheel from under the dash and 

it begs

>> this question:
>> - Why do you replace the busing by removing the steering wheel 

instead of

>> dropping the steering wheel assembly?
>> 
>> At first glance it appears that the steering wheel assembly can be 

removed

>> as a whole from underneath by disconnecting the wires and loosening 

the

>> steering wheel adjustment bolt.
>> 
>> Thoughts?
>> 
>> Nick







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 23:50:06 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Brake saga........

I recently rebuilt all four of my calipers, replaced the master cylinder and 
installed new SS lines as well.  When I went to bleed the brakes the first 
time I used the standard pump and bleed technique, after that the pedal 
simply dropped to the floor, so something had obviously gone awry in the 
bleeding process.  I talked to a mechanic friend of mine and he lent me a 
bleeding tool he made with an old reservoir cap with a schrader valve (like 
the valve on tires).  He would connect a low pressure manual tire pump to 
this to build up pressure in the reservoir (not too much!).  Then you simply 
run around to all of the calipers (in the right order) and open the bleed 
screw until solid brake fluid comes out.  You might want to have someone man 
the reservoir to make sure it doesn't run empty and to work the pump once 
and a while to keep the pressure built up.  I ran the process once and the 
brakes worked great after that.  So bottom line I think you are having a 
problem bleeding the system.  You should also bleed the master cylinder, I 
did this by making sure the master cylinder was level with fluid in the 
reservoir, then I would loosen the two brake lines and let some fluid run 
out.  You can also connect a couple short hoses to the ports and run those 
into the full reservoir and pump the peddle a few times to rid of any air. 
Just try and make sure the MC is level throughout the process.

Good Luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 9:13 PM
Subject: [DML] Brake saga........



>> Ok, a while ago I posted that I was having front brake problems. A
>> reminder: Master cylinder is brand new, front calipers are rebuilt and
>> all lines are new. The only difference in the car is the fact that I
>> have the SS braided brake lines rather then the old rubber ones.
>>
>> For the life of me....I can't get my front brakes to work!!! Rear
>> brakes work great but the fronts just won't clamp down and grab. At
>> first I though it was a defective Master cylinder so Rob at PJ Grady
>> exchanged it for me, still no luck. I next thought that maybe I didn't
>> rebuild the front calipers properly so I purchased a pair that were
>> rebuilt professionally, still won't work. I have gone through 6
>> bottles of brake fluid trying to bleed the system......still WON'T
>> work. Again, back brakes work great but the front won't work.
>>
>> I've used compressed air in the system to see if there was blockage
>> and there wasn't, air moved through it freely with no restrictions. I
>> then connected my compressor to the end of the brake line that
>> connects to the master cylinder and shot some air in it, front brakes
>> grabbed the rotor tight.
>>
>> What in the heck could it be???? I have tried to power bleed it,
>> gravity bleed it, brake pedal pump bleed it you name it! Maybe I am
>> not doing it right? I've rebuilt brake systems before on 8 other cars
>> and none ever gave me a problem like this. This is the most basic and
>> simple setup I have ever worked on.....can anyone help?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 03:41:15 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Need some Air

Hello everybody,

In the process of replacing my fuel injectors I noticed that the very 
restrictive AIR CLEANER was no longer CLEANING AIR.  Even after 
replacing the filter not more than a month ago there as a very nice 
layer of greasy dirt all over the top of the air flap(can't remember 
what it's called)  which means that what ever wants to get into the 
engine is.

I'm making it a project this Saturday to work out a less restictive 
air cleaner whilst making it less expensive than John Hervey's stuff.  

First question:  How important is the metal heat stove hose that comes 
off of the air intake?  I have seen cars with and without it that run 
fine.

Second question: How important is the hose that comes off the oil cap 
to the air breather?

Third question:  Is the section of the intake that comes out of the 
pontoon all one piece or is it sectional and able to be removed?

By the way after replacing my injectors I have to hesitation, my 
emissions dropped like a rock and no more sparatic idling in case 
anyone is interested. 

I am pretty much just thinking of dumping all the stock intake stuff 
and just put in a free flowing hose with a cone K&N filter on it and 
just hook that directly up to the scoop on the outside.  If anyone has 
any other ideas or input feel free to jet in your 2 cents cuz I'm open 
for improvement.

Thanks again,

Japheth Deaux 

VIN:1223






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 03:49:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Brake saga........

A very common reason to have this problem is that you did not properly
bleed the master cylinder. It should be "bench bled". This means you
put it in a vise, fill it with brake fluid, use 2 short tubes
connected to the outlet ports and bent around into the resovoir, and
slowly push on the piston until you stop seeing air bubbles coming out
of the tubes. Once you have completly bled the master cylinder, put
caps on the outlet ports and install in the car. Now bleed the brake
system again and you should get fluid out the front brake calipers. It
could also be your bleeding technique. Go to a local auto store and by
a "one man brake bleeder". It is a piece of tubing with a one-way
check valve so you don't pull air back in while you are bleeding the
system. Use a large clear cup with some fluid in it and keep the end
of the brake bleeder in the fluid so it can't pull air and you can see
the bubbles coming out.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>> Ok, a while ago I posted that I was having front brake problems. A
>> reminder: Master cylinder is brand new, front calipers are rebuilt and
>> all lines are new. The only difference in the car is the fact that I
>> have the SS braided brake lines rather then the old rubber ones.
>> 
>> For the life of me....I can't get my front brakes to work!!! Rear
>> brakes work great but the fronts just won't clamp down and grab. At
>> first I though it was a defective Master cylinder so Rob at PJ Grady
>> exchanged it for me, still no luck. I next thought that maybe I didn't
>> rebuild the front calipers properly so I purchased a pair that were
>> rebuilt professionally, still won't work. I have gone through 6
>> b







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 22:56:40 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: ebay buyer protection



delorean6859,

This response will seem harsh, but please don't read it in a negative tone. 
It sucks that this guy on Ebay took you for a ride on this car, but 
honestly, I'm surprised the insurance program is giving anything.  The 
bottom line is, you bought a 24-year-old glorified prototype without doing 
your homework first, and without actually seeing the car.  --Big mistake! 
If you're going to pay 20K for a car, what's a couple hundred for a plane 
ticket?  At the very least, you could take an expert with you to inspect the 
car.

The other way to help avoid this type of situation is to buy a car "in the 
family" from a reputable DeLorean owner (Brandon Moody's car recently sold 
comes to mind).  But still, there's no substitute for a visual and 
mechanical inspection.

But it's too late for that now.  So what do you do?  Don't worry!  It's a 
great group of people and we'll help you.  It will cost you some money, but 
do one project at a time and try to enjoy learning as you go.  Then you can 
sit back and really enjoy driving that car.  You can start by telling us 
your name!   :-) 

Jake Kamphoefner
1063 in STL


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_comcast.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 8:58 PM
Subject: [DML] ebay buyer protection



>> If you have been following the 6859 saga, you know I was sold a delorean 
>> listed in "excellent condition" and "needs nothing".  I won't bore you 
>> with details other then to say it needs everything.  As such, I filed a 
>> claim with ebay buyer protection who in turn assigned the case to auction 
>> insurance agency, an outside insurance agency.  Read the terms of the 
>> program closely, I'll hit the highlights.  I DID reach an agreement today 
>> with auction insurance which will result in a partial refund of the 
>> vehicle purchase price.
>>

<snip> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 23:24:01 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Cheap Time Machine

If you or anyone wants to know more about how to build a time machine 
replica, or any other BTTF part then check out my website at 
http://www.bttfstuff.com
You will need to register and log in, it is amazing.
- VB



>>From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Cheap Time Machine
>>Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 19:34:43 -0000
>>
>>I think I'm building the first Time Machine under $300, and it
>>shows.
>>I started this for my aunt and Uncle for a Halloween party. With my
>>car having many problems at the moment, I dosn't move much at the
>>moment so I decided to start making a stand still DeLorean Time
>>Machine. Most of it is just carboard and duckt tape. But so far my
>>total has come under $200. I posted some pics of it. Next year when
>>I have the funds I will use better supplies and make it drivable
>>with all of that stuff on it. I used, plexiglass, carboard, sheet
>>metal, lots and lots of duckt tape. And since I have little money to
>>use on it I found some old yarn which I twisted to make it nice and
>>stonge so it dosen't look as cheap.
>>
>>Well its a little more then half done. let me know what you think,
>>yeah it isn't great or anywhere near it, but its all done just for a
>>quick version.
>>
>>
>>Thanks
>>Darryl
>>VIN 5898
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 03:30:36 -0000
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamerge.com>
Subject: Cooling Fan Fail Light Mod

Here is a quick tip for the cooling fan fail light...If you have a 
jumper or fan relay fix that causes the Cooling Fan Fail light to 
operate during the fan operation as I have, you may want to modify 
the AC panel so that it just says COOLING during the fan's 
operation. Some have placed tape over the words Fan Fail. I was not 
happy seeing the tape on the front of the panel, so here's what I 
did...

Remove the panel. With a sharp Exacto knife or a single edged razor 
blade (as I used) carefully, gently, cut between the laminate 
overlay and the plastic back plate. You are creating a pocket under 
the words Fan Fail. Take two 1 inch pieces of electrical tape and 
stick them back to back. Now cut this down to fit in the pocket you 
made in the laminate. Hold it to the light and adjust as necessary 
until you have covered up the FAN FAIL words. Trim or fold down the 
excess tape and put a small dab of glue on the bottom edge to hold 
it in place.

Reinstall in the console and rejoice every time the word COOLING 
lights up!

Marty Galbreath
#3765






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 23:16:49 EDT
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: What is this?

I can't read Japanese fluently (I know maybe a few words?), but it's  
definitely a game.  Impossible to tell what genre of a game it is...  hopefully 
someone else with more Japanese experience will chime  in.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 02:02:27 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: Brake saga........

basfe25 wrote:


>>Ok, a while ago I posted that I was having front brake problems. A
>>reminder: Master cylinder is brand new, front calipers are rebuilt and
>>all lines are new. The only difference in the car is the fact that I
>>have the SS braided brake lines rather then the old rubber ones.
>>
>>For the life of me....I can't get my front brakes to work!!! Rear
>>brakes work great but the fronts just won't clamp down and grab. At
>>first I though it was a defective Master cylinder so Rob at PJ Grady
>>exchanged it for me, still no luck. I next thought that maybe I didn't
>>rebuild the front calipers properly so I purchased a pair that were
>>rebuilt professionally, still won't work. I have gone through 6
>>bottles of brake fluid trying to bleed the system......still WON'T
>>work. Again, back brakes work great but the front won't work.
>>
>>I've used compressed air in the system to see if there was blockage
>>and there wasn't, air moved through it freely with no restrictions. I
>>then connected my compressor to the end of the brake line that
>>connects to the master cylinder and shot some air in it, front brakes
>>grabbed the rotor tight.
>>
>>What in the heck could it be???? I have tried to power bleed it,
>>gravity bleed it, brake pedal pump bleed it you name it! Maybe I am
>>not doing it right? I've rebuilt brake systems before on 8 other cars
>>and none ever gave me a problem like this. This is the most basic and
>>simple setup I have ever worked on.....can anyone help?
>>
>>
>>

If you say you can pressurize the front brakes with air and the brakes
appear to operate, then your problem has to be the master cylinder
wether it was exchanged or not.. The braking system is very very simple,
as you've stated. So there's very little to go wrong. The only thing I
can think to check for is to make sure that something's not clogging the
reservoir that feeds the front of the master cylinder preventing fluid
from passing like it should.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.7/112 - Release Date: 9/26/2005






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 01:52:37 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: Steering bushing replacement

Nick Kemp wrote:


>>I took a quick look at the steering wheel from under the dash and it begs
>>this question:
>>- Why do you replace the busing by removing the steering wheel instead of
>>dropping the steering wheel assembly?
>>
>>At first glance it appears that the steering wheel assembly can be removed
>>as a whole from underneath by disconnecting the wires and loosening the
>>steering wheel adjustment bolt.
>>
>>Thoughts?
>>
>>Nick
>>
>>
>>

Getting the column loose on the inside is the easy part.. However when I
took mine out it took me a good two hours to actually get the column
loose from the linkage going to the rack.. 25 years of rust was tough to
break apart without destroying anything.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.7/112 - Release Date: 9/26/2005






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 01:49:57 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: What is this?

Chuck McKnight wrote:


>>I found this on the net a little while ago, and I am not sure what it is.
>>
>>http://www.monako.co.jp/products/2003/details_bt/index.html
>>
>>Is it an animated series?  A video game maybe?  Whatever it is, it has an awesome computer animated De Lorean.  Can anyone read Japanese?  (or whatever language that is)
>>
>>
>>Chuck McKnight
>>
>>
>>

I ran it through bablefish and I don't have a clue. It's a game of some
type. Just by judging from what little text bablefish actually
translated (most of the writing is in images...) as well as the video
clips, I'm gonna have to assume its roughly the japanese equivilent of a
video slot machine.. or what ever they call it over there.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.7/112 - Release Date: 9/26/2005






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 08:31:33 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: LED Center Console Burnout

Hey Robert,

what kind of LED's did you use ?
Are those non automotive LED's with integrated current source or
resistor ? Then your are breaking one of the basic electronics laws
that says - always use a resistor to limit the current thru a LED !

I know that some cheap LED flash light still do it without resistor,
but they work with batteries of about 3V that can't deliver much more
current than the LED would be able to handle. But on a 12V system you
definitely need the resistor ! A LED is not a bulb, it's a diode !

little example: if you drive a 12V bulb with 12V or 14V (with or without
engine running), the current will be around 15% higher at 14V.

LED: if you drive it with let's say 3.3V or 3.4V, the difference can be like
1000% !!!!!!!
This is why they burn very fast without resistors in series to it.
(again - only if it hasn't it already integrated !)


Elvis




>> It is always the four top bulbs, never the three on the bottom. >
>>


I'm no electrical engineer but I have wired LEDs before. I just installed
four, 3.5V white LEDs for my licsense plate ilummination and it looks
awesome. It sounds like the four bulbs that keep burning out are doing so
because of a slight over voltage to those lights.  LEDs are pretty sensitive
to power spikes as well. Their life-span will be cut drastically if the
voltage is constantly a couple of volts over wht the LED is rated for. Heat
will also cut into their lifetime.  What voltage are the white LEDs you're
using? Compare them to the red LEDs you have.  What's the difference in
voltage requirments? I use super whites that are rated at 3.5 volts each. I
can run four lights in 'series' conntected to a 12volt power source.  That
way I have a built in buffer of 2 volts for the four lights, running the
lights in an underpowered condition (they will practically last forever that
way).  I haven't installed any LEDs in my instrument cluster yet so I don't
know how they're wired.  You might need to install some resistors to cut
back the voltage going to those LEDs a little. Better break out the
multimeter.

Lingo #2034








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 03:14:28 -0000
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamerge.com>
Subject: Re: Fanzilla Clones

My dear fellow enthusiasts, I feel I must speak up here about these 
fan controllers. Take your money you want to spend on these 
controllers and put it towards either Special T Auto's (John's) new 
low amperage fans or Delorean Parts Northwest's (Toby's) new fans. 
Here is my experience... I installed John's fans and new 3 core 
radiator as I was restoring my car. I had never driven my car - it 
was delivered to me DOA on a flatbed trailer. Anyway, after my 
restoration and when I got the car running I had only a Bosch relay 
and fan fail module jumper in the sockets. Everything was working 
just fine. Then I started working on my AC problem (wouldn't cycle). 
In my quest to isolate the problem, I made the decision to take out 
John's new fans and re-install the original fan setup, wrongly 
thinking that the fans might not be pulling enough air through the 
condensor...

Well, let me testify...the original fans did make a lot more noise 
than John's, but my AC problem didn't improve a bit, my coolant 
gauge was exactly in the same place as with John's fans, but most 
importantly, with the original fans the fan relay and jumper was too 
hot to touch!!! The new 30 amp breaker I had installed was tripping 
out after about ten minutes of powering the old setup. Not good!

After I once again put John's fans back in, the fan relay and jumper 
are actually COOL to the touch, even after an hour of operation. 

The current drawn by John's fan setup is well within the safe 
operating range of an ordinary 40 amp auto relay, with no need for 
overly complicated control systems. You can't even tell when they 
come on, except for the "cooling fan fail" light". 

Marty Galbreath
#3765
Many, many new parts from John, Toby, Warren, and Rob  :) 

PS: My coolant guage needle points to just slightly above the first 
mark above cold after warm up. 











--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:

>> 
>> The big question is "WHEN??"  We've been hearing this for a long 

time.  I 

>> needed one two years ago, so unless Bob also is producing a flux 

capacitor, 

>> he's late for my order!   :-) 
>> 
>> Jake Kamphoefner
>> 1063 --> still wanting a Fanzilla but highly considering recent 

substitutes.

>> 
>> 
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Oliver Holler" <thehauntfactory_at_dml_a...>
>> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, September 24, 2005 10:51 PM
>> Subject: [DML] Fanzilla Clones
>> 
>> 
>
>>> > The Zilla line will be back.
>>> > That's the word from the man behind the name.
>>> > (According to website: Bob Zilla BA EE, Electrical Engineer Pratt
>>> > Institute NY 76
>>> >  Graduated _at_dml_ top of class with Honors. Earned exemption from 

Fields

>>> > final 'Calculus for Wave Theory & Analysis'
>>> > -Yes, there is a human life behind all the work and 

manufacturing.

>>> > And life's little twists and turns (along with the steady demand 

from

>>> > discriminating DeLorean owners!) have depleted most of the 

existing

>>> > supply of Zilla products.  But I am told their new facility will 

once

>>> > again start producing the products we've come to expect to be on 

the

>>> > shelf when we need them.
>>> > So, lets all keep any more hurricanes from happening, o.k.?
>>> > Oliver
>>> > #10694
>>> >







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 08:48:49 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Brake saga........


Hey,

I bet you have air in your system.

Check out the calipers. they have two pistons but only channel
on top of them where the fluid can go to the other piston.
You need to get the air to the side where the bleeding screw is !


Take out the inner brake pads any put something between piston
and rotor that is thinner than the pad (small piece of wood ?). 
Pump the piston further out and push it back in.
More fluid is pumped to the other side. The air is collected on top of it.
Now with pushing back the piston the air will be pushed to the side 
with the bleeding screw. Now bleed it again.

Did you do that before ?

Elvis




Ok, a while ago I posted that I was having front brake problems. A
reminder: Master cylinder is brand new, front calipers are rebuilt and
all lines are new. The only difference in the car is the fact that I
have the SS braided brake lines rather then the old rubber ones.

For the life of me....I can't get my front brakes to work!!! Rear
brakes work great but the fronts just won't clamp down and grab. At
first I though it was a defective Master cylinder so Rob at PJ Grady
exchanged it for me, still no luck. I next thought that maybe I didn't
rebuild the front calipers properly so I purchased a pair that were
rebuilt professionally, still won't work. I have gone through 6
bottles of brake fluid trying to bleed the system......still WON'T
work. Again, back brakes work great but the front won't work.

I've used compressed air in the system to see if there was blockage
and there wasn't, air moved through it freely with no restrictions. I
then connected my compressor to the end of the brake line that
connects to the master cylinder and shot some air in it, front brakes
grabbed the rotor tight.

What in the heck could it be???? I have tried to power bleed it,
gravity bleed it, brake pedal pump bleed it you name it! Maybe I am
not doing it right? I've rebuilt brake systems before on 8 other cars
and none ever gave me a problem like this. This is the most basic and
simple setup I have ever worked on.....can anyone help?








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 08:17:13 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Re: Cooling fans

What's the problem with the wiring diagram ?

That's the way they drew them back then. It's similar to the ones
I have from my other british car. 

Elvis




Okay, so I am crazy.  The fans pull...which is why they are inefficient 
without the shroud.  I get it.

But dude..."fair mount of R&D"?!??  Have you SEEN the wiring diagram?  :-) 


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, Texas









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 07:46:46 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Steering bushing replacement

WE are doing an article on replacing the steering wheel bushing in either  
this coming issue or the next issue of DCS magazine so if you want pictures and  
an explanation on how to do it you can subscribe at _www.deloreancarshow.com_ 
(http://www.deloreancarshow.com) 
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 10:30:47 -0000
From: "realrealgone" <realrealgone_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: VOLVO motor swap in D

any here know anything about switching the PRV to a 4cyl VOLVO motor 
and which one would bolt on properly to the exsisting trans?

thanks  :) 

-J






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------